Chapter 30 Hu clothing in the fourth quarter

At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, the imperial court strictly prohibited the introduction of minority costumes.Later, Song Huizong issued an edict: "There are people in the capital who are dressed in miscellaneous clothes of foreign origin, such as wearing felt hats, war robes, and Tibetan belts. Kaifeng Prefecture should strictly prohibit them." (Wu Zeng "Neng Gai") "Zhai Manlu" Volume 13) In fact, clothing culture cannot be completely static.In every era, people will change their clothes appropriately according to the economic and cultural conditions at that time and according to specific aesthetic requirements.Hu Fu not only did not become extinct in the Central Plains, but also flourished.Song Huizong issued another edict: "Those who dare to wear felt hats and hook pier (a kind of women's boots and trousers) for Khitan will violate the imperial pen." ("Song History · Yufu V") This wording is quite fierce , It can be seen that the emperor regards Hufu as a scourge and must be strictly guarded against.In the north of the Song Dynasty, because of the powerful Khitan tribe first, and then the rise of the Jurchen tribe, the popularity of Hufu continued to expand.According to the "Lanbilu" record: "The worst thing is that clothes are all made of nonsense, from the north of Guohuai to the north." "Jurchen Makeup".It started in the palace, and then spread all over the world.Lin'an dancers wear furry beaver hats and narrow Hu shirts. "Continued Zizhi Tongjian" records the words of officials and bureaucrats in the fourth year of Xiaozong's Qiandao (AD 1168): "The custom of Lin'an Prefecture has been chaotic for more than a decade, and it is used as side clothing... The scholars and people of the Central Plains stretched their heads and raised their heels, and wanted to restore it. Those who have seen the system of the central capital will not be able to obtain it in thirty or forty years. And the people in the southeast are counteracting the habits of other countries without knowing it.” It can be seen that during the Southern Song Dynasty, the south has been seriously affected by the clothing and living customs of the northern people. .