Chapter 31 Section 5 Dressing

There are many types of buns worn by women in the Song Dynasty.Some are combed into "upward-facing buns", that is, the hair is combed to the top of the head, first braided into two cylindrical buns, and then the buns are turned forward and stretched out to the forehead.In order to make the bun soaring, there is a hairpin flower tin under the bun, and the front end of the bun is raised high.Some are combed into a "concentric bun", that is, the hair is tied on the top and then braided into a round bun, expressing the desire for reunion, so it is called "concentric bun".Some are combed into a "tassel bun".

In order to make the bun more dazzling, some people use gold, silver, pearls and emeralds to make a variety of flowers and birds, hairpins, and combs and put them on the bun.Some like to use Luo, silk, gold, jade, and tortoise shell to make hairpins of peach, apricot, lotus, chrysanthemum, plum and other flowers on the bun.Some crowns are decorated with flowers, made of lacquered gauze, gold, silver, and jade. The crown is inserted with a long comb with white horns, and flowers are arranged on the left and right sides. scene".According to historical records, during the reign of Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty, women in Bianjing "made big sideburns and square foreheads".At the time of Zhenghe and Xuanhe, "Shangju urgently tie the shoulders", that is, a kind of women's high crown popular in the Northern Song Dynasty. The height should not exceed seven inches, and the width should not exceed one foot.After the declaration of peace, "comb more cloud-pointed foreheads, and temples support golden phoenixes".Due to the influence of women's flower arrangement, the emperor's ministers also arranged flower arrangements from time to time.There is a poem jokingly saying: "Peonies, peonies and roses all bloom on the hats of thousands of officials." Women in the Song Dynasty liked to wear real flowers, most of which were peonies and peonies.What they wear and what flowers form a series of patterns.For example, if you wear purple clothes, you will have white flowers on your hairpin; if you wear light yellow clothes, you will have purple flowers on your hairpin;Some court ladies wear purple shirts, orange-red dresses and purple flowers in hairpins.During festivals, women dress up specially.Zhou Mi wrote in "Old Things in the Wulin Yuan Xi": "On Yuan Xi (the 15th day and night of the first lunar month) festival objects (scenery in accordance with the season), women all wear pearls, emerald greens, moths, jade plums, snow willows..., while clothes Most of them are still white, and they are suitable under the moon.” Naomo is a kind of headdress for women, which is cut into a butterfly shape with black gold paper and dyed with vermilion powder.Yumei is a plum blossom made of white silk.Snow willow is a winter jasmine branch made of paper or silk.There is also a forehead decoration "plum blossom makeup".When it comes to its origin, it is inevitable to go back to a story.It is said that when Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Emperor Wu of the Song Dynasty in the Southern Dynasty, was lying under the eaves of Hanzhang Hall on the seventh day of the first lunar month, plum blossoms suddenly fell on her forehead. "Plum blossom makeup" became popular.After the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, it was still very popular in the Song Dynasty.

Women in the Song Dynasty paid attention to eyebrow style and wore earrings.No matter the queen or the court lady, they often draw their eyebrows into a wide moon shape, and then use a pen to smudge one end (or upper or lower) of the moon eyebrows, from deep to shallow, and spread outwards, which has a unique charm.Some women's earrings in the Song Dynasty were made of gold wire into an "S" shape, with one end in a pointed shape and the other end in a thin slice, on which flowers were embossed.There are such earrings in the cultural relics unearthed from the Song Dynasty tomb in Pengze, Jiangxi.Some are composed of two gold sheets, embossed with complicated patterns, in the middle are two symmetrical melons and fruits, with branches and leaves spreading up and down, and ear-piercing gold threads are in the shape of sticks, which are integrated with the patterns of the gold sheets.This cultural relic is found in Song tombs in Wuxi, Jiangsu.

Women in the Song Dynasty wore sachets.When young men and women say goodbye, the woman often presents them with a sachet as a souvenir.Some are made of Suluo, embroidered with mandarin ducks and lotuses, plain weave yarn on the back, and double-strand brown threads are used to weave flower spikes along the mouth as decoration. In the Song Dynasty, when women went out or got married, they had to wear veils on their heads.It is known from "Tokyo Menghualu" and "The Chronicle of Things" that there are two main types of hijab: one is remade on the basis of the hood of the Tang Dynasty, and a windbag is sewn with a piece of silk and put on the head. The face is exposed on the top, and the excess is draped in the back.Some cut the cloth into strips, and put them from the front to the back, covering only the face and the back of the body, leaving the ears and temples exposed.The other is a large silk scarf, mostly red, which is used by the woman to cover her face when she gets married and enters the bridal chamber.According to "Meng Liang Lu" records, three days before marriage, the man will give the woman a piece of make-up hijab.Whether it's a beauty or an ugly girl, you can only see the difference when you take off the hijab.The custom of covering the head has lasted for thousands of years, and the bride at the wedding in the Republic of China still covered her head.