Chapter 29 Section 3 women's clothing

Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty had more styles and colors than men's.From a macro point of view, women in the Song Dynasty wore shirts in summer and jackets in winter.The colors of the upper clothes are generally light green, pink purple, silver gray, light white, etc., which are delicate and elegant; the colors of the lower skirts are usually blue, blue, green, blue, apricot yellow, etc., and the beauty is gorgeous. Concubines in the Song Dynasty had Yiyi, Zhuyi, Liyi, and Juyi.The Crown Princess has Rui Zhai and Ju Yi.The gown is made of dark blue, woven into multicolored Zhai patterns, and lined with plain yarn.The middle single collar is embroidered with black and white Fuwen, and the sleeves and borders are bordered with vermilion silk.Cover your knees with clothes.A large colored suit with piping on the outside, with red brocade on the top and green brocade on the bottom.The belt knots are made of plain, the leather belts are made of blue, and they are tied with white jade double pendants.Zhu Yi, made of Fei Luo, covered the knees, wearing leather belts, large belts, ribbons, and gold-embellished shoes, which match the color of the clothes.Dress, 12 tin, common variegated colors, plus double small ribbons.Ju clothing, made of yellow silk, covering the knees, with large belts, leather belts and skirts in the same color as the clothes.The robes are used for receiving booklets, paying homage to court, court meetings, etc.Zhu Yi is used to pay homage to holy faces and so on.The gown is for the guests at the banquet.Juyi is the clothing for silkworms.The concubine's regular clothes are usually red sleeves, with red collar as the collar, red skirt, red scarf, red back, yellow and red gauze shirts, white gauze crotch pants, yellow skirt, pink gauze blouse.

The silk fabrics of the Song Dynasty had a new development compared with the past, with more varieties of designs and colors, and the level of embroidery was obviously improved.As a result, painted collars and embroidered collars appeared in women's clothing.According to the "Notes of Lao Xue'an", trousers are embroidered, white embroidered on white ground, light yellow embroidered on light yellow ground, and soap embroidered on purple ground when wrapping belly.Women's skirts in the Song Dynasty were mostly made of Luosha and embroidered.There are "double butterfly embroidered skirts" for noble women's skirts.There are also dresses dyed with tulip grass to make them have the color and fragrance of tulips.In the Song Dynasty, women's skirts were mostly long skirts, and the skirts also hung very long. "The skirts hold the grass when sitting, and the skirts sweep the flowers when walking" is a poem describing long skirts.There are many colors of skirts, such as red, green, yellow, blue, blue and other colors.Kabuki dancers are most fashionable in long red skirts that look like pomegranate flowers, so some people describe them as "pomegranate skirts with slender waists".There are six, eight and twelve skirts.The dance skirt has more pleats, making it look extraordinarily chic.Among the skirts unearthed from the Southern Song Dynasty tomb in Fuzhou, there is a skirt that is finely folded except for the side that is not pleated. Each piece has 15 pleats, totaling 60 pleats.When women go out to ride donkeys, they wear "swivel skirts" with the front and rear hips open for riding.This kind of swirling skirt originated from prostitutes in the capital, and later some families of scholar-bureaucrats followed suit.

There is a kind of women's clothing in the Song Dynasty called "big sleeves", which have two types: straight collar and round collar.Made of sura, double breasted, bodice cut, sleeve ends each connected with a section, decorated with lace.The underwear worn by women is called tube top, which is diamond-shaped.The tube top unearthed in Fuzhou is made of plain silk on the outside and inside, double-layered, with a small amount of silk floss inside, and silk belts on each waist for easy tying.It can be covered with milk on the top, and the belly can be covered on the bottom. It is not applied to the back, but only to the chest, so it is called tube top.In Qing Dynasty Chen Yuanlong's "Ge Zhi Jing Yuan Yin Hu Shi Shu Tan" contains: "Since Jianyan (1127-1130 A.D.), the Zhecao Division of Lin'an Prefecture has entered Cheng Gong's royal clothes, and there are pink tube tops." Visible , At that time, the lady used a tube top.Women also wear half-sleeved shirts and backs.It has two shapes, one has belts hanging from the two armpits and the back, and the waist is tied with Lebo; the other is without belts and does not use Lebo.

During the more than 300 years of the Song Dynasty, women's clothing has undergone some changes.During the years of Chongning and Daguan (AD 1102-1110), women's jackets were short and narrow; in the years of Xuanhe and Jingkang (AD 1119-1127), women's jackets tended to be tight and narrow. The belt buckle restraint was called "secret four doors" at that time.There is a small garment that is also narrow and close-fitting, with four seams on the left, right, front, and back, and is fastened with buttons. It is called "bento".This form was slightly restrained in the Shaoxing period (AD 1131-1162).But in the Jingding period (AD 1260-1264), it returned to its original state.Fashion styles mostly start in the inner palace, and gradually spread to distant places.The characteristics of its decoration are that women's clothes in the Jingkang period often have patterns of four seasons and flowers gathered on one piece of clothing, and sometimes have patterns of small landscapes and landscapes.Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, people have loved the landscapes, flowers and birds in nature, and the paintings of landscapes, flowers and birds have been brilliant.The achievements of artists directly affect the design of clothing, and the artistic beauty of painting and the beauty of clothing have been unified.

The emperors of the Song Dynasty repeatedly issued decrees to restrict the clothing styles of scholars and common people.In fact, it is required that the simpler the shape of the clothes of the common people, the better, and the more monotonous the colors, the better.In the third year of Tiansheng (1025 A.D.), the emperor issued an edict: "In Beijing, scholars are not allowed to wear black and brown white floral clothes with blue, yellow and purple patterns. Women are not allowed to wear white or brown wool (satin) and light brown. Clothes made of silk and silk were cut off within ten days by the Kaifeng government" ("Song History·Yu Fu V").It can be seen that the increasingly monotonous civilian clothes in the Song Dynasty are closely related to the imperial ban.