Chapter 28 Section 2 Civil Service

From the works of ancient historians, writers, and artists, we can examine the social life of a specific era and the characteristics of people's clothing. "Song History" has much more detailed records on Song Dynasty clothing than "New Book of Tang" on Tang Dynasty clothing, and quoted several fragments of imperial edicts, revealing the social background of many clothing development trends.Zhang Zeduan's "A Picture of Shanghe During the Qingming Festival" in the Northern Song Dynasty shows the life of residents of all walks of life on both sides of the Bianhe River outside the east gate of the capital (Kaifeng) in the Northern Song Dynasty during the Qingming Festival, reflecting the social customs at that time: some Li people wore scarves and jackets on their heads. , wearing trousers, busy; some people, wearing bamboo hats, shirts, trousers, running around. "Scholars, farmers, businessmen, and hundreds of households wear clothes and towels, all of which have different levels of difference" (Wu Zimu's "Menglianglu").The clothes of Bianliang people in the Northern Song Dynasty: medicine sellers and divination sellers all wear crowns and belts; scholars, farmers, workers, and merchants each have their own qualities, some wear hats and backs, and some wear shirts and belts (Meng Yuanlao "Tokyo "Meng Hua Lu").Different industries have different clothes.We can generally know what kind of occupation they are engaged in from the characteristics of their clothing.

Men in the Song Dynasty mainly wore round-neck gowns on their upper bodies.In addition, there are cool shirts, purple shirts, sweaters, Ge shirts, 襕 shirts, crane cloaks and so on.Liangshan is draped on the outside, because the color is white and belongs to cool color, so it is called Liangshan.The purple shirt, narrow in shape, was originally a military uniform, and was later worn by scholar-bureaucrats.Narrow-sleeved yolo shirt with front and back slits for easy riding.The cool shirt is wider, and the purple shirt is shorter and narrower.Cool shirts for both men and women.Because the cool shirts are light white, they are mostly used for mourning.When Song Xiaozong died, he ordered all his officials to wear cool shirts to the funeral.Sweaters are made of wool; Ge shirts are made of Ge linen.The two are named for their different textures.The shirt is in the shape of a gown, similar to an official uniform, and similar to a regular uniform with long sleeves. It is white, and a banner is added to the front and rear skirts. The white 襕 in "Green robes for officials, white 襕 for Juzi" ("Yuhai") refers to the white 襕 shirt worn by Juzi (scholar who was promoted to take the exam) in the Song Dynasty.There is a crane cloak similar in shape to the shirt, which is wider and draped on the outside.Su Dongpo's poem "Try to wear a crane cloak" is a description of the clothes of literati and mountain people in the Song Dynasty.

In addition, there is a kind of gown, which is as long as the foot, has a surface and an inside, and has cotton wool inside. Because it is long, it is also called a long jacket. There are wide-sleeved and wide-body and narrow-sleeved tight-fitting ones.People with official positions wear brocade robes; ordinary people wear cloth (or linen or cotton) robes; literati without official positions wear white robes.Monk robes are rough and short robes.Working people often wear jackets and jackets.Ru has sleeves, the length is usually up to the knee, there are some clips and some cotton, and they are mostly lined inside.There is not much difference between jacket and jacket, and they are mostly worn outside.During the Jingkang Rebellion, some scholar-bureaucrats often exchanged Qiluo for coarse cloth jackets and trousers to avoid the plunder of the Jin people.Short brown is clothing made of sackcloth, commonly used by poor people.Because of its narrow body and small sleeves, it is also called "tube sleeve jacket".In the Song Dynasty, Shao Kangjie refused to be an official many times, "so he made the hermit's clothes, black hat, sash, and brown, and it was not easy to meet the princes."It can be seen that the hermits in the Song Dynasty wore brown clothes.In the Song Dynasty, both men and women wore backs.The texture is very different. Men wear backs with emperors, officials, guards, scholars, and merchants.Women who wear backs include empresses, concubines, housewives, singing girls, etc.In the Song Dynasty, a shin garment called knee trousers was also popular, covering the knees and feet, and was worn by both men and women, rich and poor.It is said that Qin Hui was the prime minister in the Southern Song Dynasty, and Gaozong always took precautions against him; after Qin Hui's death, Gaozong breathed a sigh of relief, and said to his ministers: "Today, I will put a dagger in my knee-free trousers."