Chapter 27 Chapter 6 Costumes of the Song Dynasty

The emperor's clothing in the Song Dynasty included Daqiu Mian, Dagon Fu, Tongtian Crown, Jiangsha Pao, Lu Pao, Shan Pao, Narrow Pao, and Yuyue Fu.Daqiu Mian is the dress worn when offering sacrifices to God Haotian.The big fur is made of black lambskin, and the leader uses black silk.Mian, without sills, with round front and rear, low front and high rear, with a mysterious appearance and Zhu Li, made of silk.Dagon clothes are the clothes worn when offering sacrifices to the ancestral temple, courting the Taiqing Palace, accepting honorary titles, accepting court on Yuan Ri, and enshrining the crown prince.The clothes are blue, with seven patterns embroidered with the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, pheasants, and tiger beetles [weiwei, a kind of long-tailed ape]. kind of graphics.There are twelve crowns and two crowns, which are pierced with pearls, and the crown plate is made of dragon scale brocade.The Tongtian crown is the first garment for the great sacrifice, the great court meeting, the big book of orders, and the cultivation of Jitian.The Tongtian Crown of the Song Dynasty is different from that of the Tang Dynasty. It is inlaid with the North Pearl produced in Liaodong.Although it is also 24 beams, plus Jinbo Mountain, it is made of gold or tortoiseshell and embedded in the crown.The height and width of the crown are both one foot, and the green surface is Zhuli.The crimson gauze gown that matches the Tongtian crown is made of Yunlong red and gold stripe yarn, with black cuffs inside the red gown.Lu robes are casual clothes when returning to the palace after the ceremony and riding on the chariot. They are made of crimson luo.If you wear boots, it is called boot gown.Shoes and boots are made of black leather.The robes are the clothes for the big banquet, and they are in ocher yellow, light yellow, red and other colors.Narrow gowns are used in normal administration.The imperial parade uniform is the emperor's military uniform, which is worn during military parades on horseback.To sum up, we can see that the emperor dressed differently on different occasions, required solemnity when offering sacrifices, sanctity when governing the court, convenience when making inspections, and mighty power when parading, all of which reflected the supreme authority.

The clothes of the crown prince include Dagon Mian, Yuanyou Crown, Zhu Mingyi and regular clothes.Dagon Mian is the dress for sacrificial offerings.The crown, the green Luo Biao, the crimson Luo red silk lining, decorated with gold and silver [sa3] flowers, nine white beads on the front and back, and crystal beads on the two.Dagon clothes, blue clothes, embroidered with mountains, dragons and other figures, red Luosang embroidered with algae, rice and other figures.The Yuanyou crown is the first garment when accepting the book and visiting the temple. It has 18 beams, a green Luo watch, and is decorated with gold and silver flowers.Zhu Mingyi is used together with Yuanyou Guan. It is made of safflower gold bar yarn, and the lining is red yarn.Regular clothes are made of soap gauze and folded upper towels, and purple official clothes are worn with rhinoceros, gold and jade belts.It is not difficult to see that the clothes of the crown prince are the clothes of the "quasi-emperor".In ancient Chinese feudal society, the emperor was hereditary, and the characteristics of the crown prince's clothing (specific materials, unique patterns, and unique styles) reflected this special relationship.

The costumes of the courtiers in the Song Dynasty are complicated. At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, all the ministers worshiped and served as Dagon Mian.Among them, the set of nine crowns is: painted forehead with gold and silver flowers, rhinoceros and tortoiseshell hairpin guides, five patterns of embroidered mountains, dragons, pheasants, fire, and tiger beetles on Qingluo clothing, and four kinds of embroidered algae, pink rice, 黼, and 軻Graphics, Fei Luo boots or shoes.This is the clothes worn by Prince and Zhongshumen.The set of seven crowns is: rhino horn hairpin guide, clothes painted with tiger worms, algae, and rice noodles, and clothes painted with fur and fur.This is Jiuqing's clothes.The set of five crowns is: Qingluo clothes, without patterns, and a bronze saber.This is the attire worn by fourth-rank and fifth-rank officials.Zhu Luoshang is the attire for officials below the sixth rank.The more crowns and patterns, the higher the official position.

The dresses of hundreds of officials include the Mian Mian, Mian Mian, Mian Mian, and Mian Mian.The crown is the clothes of the prime minister. There are eight crowns (eight jades per crown), three colors, and green crowns.The clothes are made of blue and black silk, embroidered with Chinese insects, fire, etc., and the clothes are embroidered with algae and powder patterns on the outside and inside.Wumian is the clothing of the six ministers.There are six jades and three colors in the crown.Clothes are painted with patterns of tiger worms, algae, and rice noodles, and clothes are embroidered with fu and fu.Jimian is the clothes of Guangluqing, the supervisory censor, the official who reads the book, and the official who raises the book.There are four jades and two colors in the crown.The clothes are painted with powder and rice patterns, and the clothes are embroidered with fur and fur.Xuanmian is the clothes of Guanglucheng and Fenglilang.There is no crown, no ribbon.The clothes are pure black, without grain, with thorns on the skirt.It can be seen that the amount of jade and jade marks the level of official status.

The color of official uniforms has also changed.At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, it was stipulated that purple should be worn for those above the third rank, vermilion for the fifth rank and above, green for the seventh rank and above, and blue for the ninth rank and above.During the Yuanfeng period, there were some changes: purple was worn for rank four and above, crimson for rank six and above, and green for rank nine and above.Clothes and colors tend to be simplified, from four to three. Emperors and officials wear complicated court clothes, which are fine in winter but hot in summer.It is said that in the Song Dynasty, a prime minister wore court clothes in midsummer and almost died of suffocation in the court hall.Because of this incident, the Song Dynasty once stipulated that all officials were allowed to meet in court without wearing court clothes in midsummer.The scholar-bureaucrats in the Song Dynasty mainly wore deep clothes, purple shirts, cool shirts, hoodies, and shirts.Most of the shirts are made of white fine cloth, with round necks and large sleeves, and there are pleats [bibi] at the waist of the lower garment.Jinshi, Guozisheng, prefecture and county students often wear this service.

The monarchs and ministers of the Song Dynasty had scruples about the gorgeous costumes. They thought that using rare animal feathers to beautify themselves would harm nature and violate benevolent government.In the first year of Daguan (1107 A.D.), Guo Tianxin proposed to abolish the emerald (referring to the blue and green feathers of a bird) decoration.Huizong said: "The government of the former kings was benevolent, including plants, trees, animals, and now the feathers are taken. They are used in a hurry, harming life and harm. It is not the intention of the former kings to benefit and nourish all things. It should be banned by a judicial law." ("Song History·Yu") Clothing Records Five) During the Chunxi period of the Southern Song Dynasty (1174-1189 A.D.), Zhu Xi proposed to formulate clothing for sacrifices and crown marriages. Wat, Jinshi wears a head, a shirt, and a belt, and a scholar wears a head, a shirt, and a belt, and those who have no official use a hat, shirt, and belt" ("Song History·Yufu V").This kind of clothing design is trying to be simple, which is more in line with the purpose of Neo-Confucianism "remove people's desires and restore the principles of nature".

Clothing is part of the "silent language".It communicates information by using symbols that are visible but not spoken.Therefore, the ancients made many articles on the crown.Among the official crowns of the Song Dynasty, Jinxian crown, Diaochan crown and Xiezhi crown all have their own unique connotations.The Jinxian Crown is made of oilcloth, and there is a forehead flower engraved with gold and silver on the forehead of the crown.There is "Nayan" (a scarf) behind the crown to show loyalty.The crown is made of Luo, and it hangs under the chin to tie a knot.The hairpin made of tortoiseshell (or rhinoceros horn) runs across the crown, and the bun plays a firm role.The crown and beam are painted with silver and gold.This is the first server of the court meeting for senior officials above the second rank.Diaochan crown is also called cage towel, which is woven with rattan silk, painted on the surface, square, and two pieces of cicada wings are woven with fine rattan silk on the left and right.There are silver flowers in the front of the crown, a tortoiseshell cicada on the upper part, and three small cicadas on the left and right, with a jade nose and a mink tail on the left.It is said that the mink symbolizes "inner strength and outer warmth", and the cicada symbolizes "clean food".This is the first server under Zhongshumen.The Xiezhi crown, that is, the French crown, is painted with green powder, and the number of beams depends on the grade.Xiezhi, which means "can touch evil and flattery".This is the first service of Doctor Yushi and Zhongcheng.

Futou is also the first clothing of Song Dynasty officials.From the emperor to ordinary officials, they must wear formal dresses and Futou when they are in court meetings and dealing with official duties.This kind of Futou is mostly made of rattan or straw woven towel, and the outside is made of yarn and painted.Compared with Futou in the Tang Dynasty, it has been improved, and most of them are straight feet.At first, the two feet were spread out straight from side to side, and later, the two feet were stretched and lengthened.Some hairpins are made of gold, silver, Luo and silk flowers.Officials also wear turbans.In terms of styles, there are dome scarves, square top scarves, Qinding scarves, etc.; in terms of materials, there are gauze scarves, silk scarves, etc.;The Dongpo scarf was originally worn by Su Dongpo, a literary figure in the Song Dynasty.It has four walls. There is a heavy wall outside the wall, which is slightly narrower than the inner wall. The front, back, left, and right corners face each other. When worn, there are corners between the two eyebrows.Someone once described it like this: "Sackcloth paper fans [ta it] and two sandals, wearing a Dongpo scarf." (Yang Ji's "Gift to Xu Baiyun") This is a typical image of a Song Dynasty literati.

Officials in the Song Dynasty wore "belts" to distinguish high and low positions based on their texture.Emperors and crown princes wear jade belts, ministers wear gold belts, and silver, rhinoceros, copper, iron, etc., each with different grades.Sometimes, the emperor rewarded his ministers with jade belts.In the sixth year of Xining Shenzong (AD 1073), the Xihe Road was successful, Prime Minister Wang Anshi led a group of officials to Zichen Hall to congratulate, and Emperor Shenzong untied the white jade belt to reward.In the eighth year of Xining, Qi Wang Hao and Jia Wang Kai (yun 汰) obtained Fangtuan jade belt.In the fifth year of Yuanfeng (1082 A.D.), Shenzong issued an edict: three masters (Taishi, Taifu, Taibao, Zhengyipin), three princes (Taiwei, Situ, Sikong), prime minister, scholar of Guanwendian, etc., Pei Jin Ball Wen Fang Tuan belt, Pei Yu.The so-called Peiyu refers to wearing fish made of gold and silver according to different grades as ornaments.According to the regulations of the Song Dynasty, those who wear purple clothes (high-level officials) bring goldfish, and those who wear scarlet clothes (middle-level officials) bring whitebait, all of which are tied on the belt and hang down at the back.Those who were bestowed by the officials of the Beijing Dynasty and the magistrates of the prefectures and counties also wore scarlet clothes.Neither the prince's military officer nor the generals and school officers wear it.