Chapter 26 Section VII Five Dynasties Costumes

The Five Dynasties lasted for more than 50 years from the first year of Kaiping in the Later Liang Dynasty (907 AD) to the first year of Jiaotai in the Southern Tang Dynasty (958 AD), and the costumes generally followed the Tang system.But there are also differences, that is, the turban has changed significantly. "The emperors of the Five Dynasties mostly wrapped their heads facing the sky, and their feet were turned up. The lords of the four directions, each innovative, or turned up and then turned down; or like a round fan or a banana leaf, hugged in front. The pseudo-Mengshu began with It is made of lacquer gauze, and the two horns of Ma Xifan in Hunan Province are more than ten feet long. They are called dragon horns, and if people accidentally touch them, they will have headaches all day long." ("Shogunate Yan Xianlu") The styles of Futou in the Tang and Song Dynasties were different, and there were experiences in the middle. The transformation style of the Five Dynasties period.After Li Cunxu (xuxu) ascended the throne in the later Tang Dynasty, Shang Fang entered the royal scarf, including Shengxiaoyao, Anle, Zhulong, Qingliang, Baoshan, Jiaolong, Taishou, Liuhe, Sheren, Eryi, etc. Dozens of kinds.In the Southern Tang Dynasty, Han Xizai made light gauze hats in the south of the Yangtze River, known as "Han Jun Qingge".This kind of towel style is different from Tang Dynasty at the top and Song Dynasty at the bottom. It is taller than Dongpo scarf in Song Dynasty, with a pointed top.

The female skirts of the Southern Tang Dynasty also have their own characteristics.When Han Xizai was the Minister of Zhongshu, he kept a large number of kabuki and had banquets day and night.Later, the master ordered the painter Gu Hong to visit Qidi in the middle of the night, and when he came back, he painted "Han Xizai's Night Banquet" based on his memory, which depicts the night banquet of Ji, Ji and singing girls in the Five Dynasties period.We can see the characteristics of women's clothing at that time.Their hair styles are in the form of transition between Tang and Song Dynasties. Their skirts are lower than those of Tang Dynasty, their skirts are longer, and their drape is narrower and longer than that of Tang Dynasty.

Wang Jian, the founder of the former Shu, liked to wear big hats, but worried that he would be exposed when he went out because he was different, which was not safe enough, so he ordered the common people to wear big hats, forming a fashion of wearing big hats throughout the country.His son Wang Yan made his own towel (a pointed scarf), which was shaped like a cone, and the common people all imitated it. Something eccentric develops into fashion, and tastes change with it.Women's foot binding may have started in five generations.In the Five Dynasties, Emperor Li Houzhu of the Southern Tang Dynasty had a court lady bound her feet with silk, and the feet were curved like crescent moons.She danced lightly on the six-foot-high golden lotus, and was very much loved by Empress Li.Since then, foot-binding has intensified, killing Chinese women for thousands of years. "Golden Lotus" has become synonymous with women's small feet.But the vast majority of women who are engaged in heavy physical labor are often without feet.