Chapter 4 Part Three Judging People by Their Covers

Why can a perceptive person judge a person's status at a glance?What traits does he capture? 【appearance First of all, beautiful appearance.Of course, it is not difficult to find beautiful people in all classes, but good looks are usually the mark of the upper class.According to Keeley Cooper, this is the result of deliberate natural selection.She found that when upper-class people married lower-class people, they usually only chose beautiful women.She concluded: "By and large, attractive people move up, marry people of higher social status, and ... feel insecure. Ugly people tend to marry people below their class."

【Smile Again, a smile, another sign of rank.That means, don't laugh too much.Walk down the street and you'll notice that poor-class ladies smile more often and with a wider grin than middle- and upper-class ladies.On the one hand, they love to show off their beautiful teeth, which are of course fake; on the other hand, they are immersed in the culture that is eager to tell others "I am happy today", and most of the time they can't help but show a defensive attitude. sexual optimism.Speaking of dentures, I recently witnessed an astonishing move.In a public place, a poor-class man's upper denture fell off. He was just able to push the pink and yellow thing forward with his tongue, trying to push it back into place, and the denture protruded from his mouth. Almost an inch protruded from the outside, as if to "breathe" the thing.It is impossible to imagine that a middle-class or upper-middle-class person would act like this.People wouldn't be surprised if they saw someone in the upper class who was dismissive of others do this, because they knew he was doing it on purpose.

【height Height is a more credible marker of class in Britain than anywhere else.but.Even in America, the people of rank are seldom stubby little men.Furthermore, if the butt is turned outward, it must be a lower class person, just as a short neck (or even a short appearance) is a characteristic of the lower class, Westerners like Lawrence Wilke, John Cash, etc. Among country singers, and similar poor people, the short neck is especially noticeable.If you're still skeptical that physical appearance can indicate a person's class and social status, try to imagine how the following characters would look compared to each other: Roy Acuff and Avenel Put Harriman together, put Mina Daley and George Bush together, or, put Minnie Parr and Jackie Onassis (referring to the wife of President Kennedy, who later remarried the Greek shipping magnate Onassis. A translator's note) together.

【weight Since 62 percent of Americans are overweight, an easy way to tell the difference is to be thin.Slimness is the unanimous goal of the above four classes, although the middle class has paid a high price to curb their love of eating potatoes, because most of their work is desk labor, and the abject poor and the "invisible bottom" usually do not have What fat flaunts around, but the reason is not out of my choice.Most overweight people belong to three poor classes.Fast food and beer are two important causes of obesity. In addition, neurotic overeating caused by anxiety about whether one's social status will decline is also a reason. This is especially obvious among the upper poor, who justify obesity as a Even "going out for breakfast" is a reasonable move due to a steady weekly salary and the ability to eat out frequently.However, we know that their quick response to McDonald's TV commercials is really due to the limitations of their living standards.

A magazine targeting the poorer classes recently placed an advertisement for a book on dieting.The ad critiques several myths about weight, calling them "total bullshit".Among the fallacies it rants about are the claims that “all social classes are equally overweight.” The ad explains: "Your weight is a statement of your social class. A hundred years ago, obesity was a sign of success. But those days are gone. Today, obesity is a sign of lower middle class. The same as upper middle class and middle class Compared with other classes, the middle and lower classes are four times as likely to be obese."

Not only is it four times the number, but it is also four times the visibility.The ostentation of obesity is yet another sign of the poor, and the purpose seems to be to achieve some form of vengeance by inflicting the greatest aesthetic offense on the higher classes.Jonathan Laban was lucky enough to witness one at a Minnesota trade fair that seemed to be quite elaborate.The Deliberate Obesity Spectacle: "These farming families... are the descendants of hungry immigrants from Germany and Scandinavia who came to the United States... Generation after generation, the members of these families slowly became Americans. Today they are all the same size: Same wide hips, same pot belly, same turkey sagging jaw and sperm whale torso, same no neck visible. Women squeezed into pink stretch pants while men scrambled into plaid shirts and polyester slacks bulge out of every slit and button."

Laban went on, as if lest he wasn't conspicuous enough, these men were wearing caps to tell us to notice the flab on the nape of their necks, as if specifically trying to contradict the old wisdom that "happiness is being a grandparent" and that the older you get, the stupider you get up.Laban found himself so mesmerized by the state of obesity in America that he actually produced a map of America's obese population.According to the map, the most obese people live in areas with a concentration of descendants of immigrants who have "fresh memories of the hunger of their ancestors".On the other hand, "the data of fat thickness in several areas of North America before 1776 was the lowest, and the waist circumference of the population increased according to the law from east to west and from south to north. The fat capital of the United States is located at about Somewhere in the triangle of Minnesota, Iowa, and the Dakotas."

On the contrary, we don't have to follow Laban around to be convinced that there is an elite look in this country: it requires women to be thin, with hairstyles of eighteen or twenty years ago (the most stylish women wear their hair all their lives). favorite hairstyle from college), wears well-fitting clothes, expensive but low-key shoes and bags, and minimal jewelry.They wear silk - an immediate indication of rank, since silk serves no purpose other than to show rank.Men should be thin, wear no jewelry at all, have no cigarette cases, have moderate-length hair, and never dye their hair; dyed hair is a sign of middle class or upper poor, as President Reagan demonstrated.They also never use wigs, which are restricted to the poorer classes (the upper and middle poor call wigs "blankets". "Mats" or "table mats", and the lower poor "toops").The process of rejecting what is current, conspicuous, and superfluous achieves the elite appearance of men and women.Since obesity is conspicuous and redundant, the upper classes reject obesity.Michael Korda in his "Success! "In the book, he found that "thin is expensive."

【clothes The rejection of the superfluous by the upper class does not mean that he" = pursues "minimum" in clothing. On the contrary, multiple layers of clothing are necessary. Alison Lully argued in "The Language of Dress" (1981), "In general, the more layers of clothing a person wears, the higher his or her social status. She also said that "the fashion of layered clothing in recent years, as it is sometimes claimed, may be related to energy shortages (the US government has called on people to wear more to save energy used for heating.-Translator's Note), at the same time, this Also a great way to show off the size of your wardrobe at home. "

Upper-middle-class women are almost invariably dressed in gray flannel skirts, Stuart plaid skirts, or khaki trousers, navy blue cardigan cardigans (sometimes cable knits), Peter Pan A white shirt with a collar, flat shoes, and preferably a toque hat to cover your hair.When the temperature is low, put on a blue top.If you're on business, switch to a gray flannel jacket.But whatever the outfit, the ideal color is a true navy blue.It is not uncommon to see multi-layer mixed wear, and low-key is a common tendency.The essential ornament was a spectacle case, adorned with hand-embroidered lace (an important mark of rank: hand-embroidered meant that the hostess had hours of leisure each day to devote to the craft—not a good thing for the poorer classes. dare to imagine).If a woman did a lot of embroidery for family and friends, chances were she was upper middle class.But if she knits a sweater with a little tag that says "Handmade by Gertrude Willis," she must be a middle-class woman; De Willis Weaving Art", she was undoubtedly an upper-poor woman.

【color Navy blue is the color of the upper middle class, purple belongs to the poor class.Purple has always been criticized by Barbara Brace.The clothing consultant for the Department of Labor and Commerce, the CIA and the Food and Drug Administration earns $400 a day and specializes in changing the poor clothing style of female government employees.She wanted women to look as feminine as possible, in navy or gray tailoring coats.It goes without saying that there is no room for a romper, especially not in purple, let alone purple polyester.This is classic proletarian clothing, the absolute lowest class icon.There is also a category of attire that is as popular with slim women from the poorer classes as it is with jumpsuits for fat women.By this look I mean designer jeans with extremely high heels.This style of outfit is common among upper-poor girls who have just moved to the suburbs and haven't mastered the upper-middle-class preppy dress code. 【texture A purple polyester pantsuit goes against two basic requirements that determine clothing class: the color code and the organic fabric code.Except for navy blue, the softer or duller the color, the more classy it is.As for the fabrics, the more biological the better, that is to say, wool, silk, cotton and all kinds of animal skins.That's all.All synthetic fibers are worn by the poor, both because they are cheaper than natural fibers and because they are boring because of their uniformity (can you find grass or sheep droppings in an acrylic sweater?) Veblen as early as 1899 He recognized this in 1999, when he said of mass-manufactured products in general: "The vulgar and ill-educated people adore and prefer the machine-made commodity because it is so perfect. Noble consumer goods have never paid even the slightest attention.” (Organic principles also rule that wood in kitchens is a higher grade than plastic veneers; tablecloths on tablecloths are better grades of cotton than plastic or linoleum.) To the real upper-middle class , especially the complete abandonment of man-made fibers.So discerning are these upper-class people that even, as The Definitive Preppy Handbook puts it, "a speck of polyester in an Oxford shirt" is a sad sign of the middle class. .The book also enthusiastically celebrates a young Caroline Kennedy—"strictly speaking, more preppy in dress and manner than her mother"—because "during four years at Harvard Square , any unnatural fibers have never come close to her body.” I would also like to mention one thing that seems quite American, quite late twentieth-century—that is, ghettoized—that we have today In the purchased bath, 12% polyester has been mixed.The function of the bath is to absorb water, but because the only absorbent fiber in it-cotton-is diluted, this function is greatly reduced. However, these statements will be criticized by Mr. Fisher A. Rimes.Mr. Rimes is public affairs director for the Washington-based Federation of Man-made Fiber Manufacturers, an alliance that aims to persuade the Army and Navy to use man-made fibers as much as possible, not just for towels but for mops and sponge wipes.Mr. Rimes is always ready to hit back at all kinds of slander. In a recent letter to the New York Times, he defended polyester and refuted a fashion critic's criticism of polyester. "Polyester," he says, "in its many gorgeous forms, has become the most widely used fashion fabric today." (From a hierarchical point of view, of course, that speaks volumes for its fallacy.) [legibility In addition to the color and polyester content of clothing, another indicator is the "legibility" of clothing, which can often determine whether people are from the poor class.Those t-shirts or whatever crappy stuff with all sorts of messages waiting to be read and admired are what Alison Lurie has dubbed "readable clothing," a pretty useful term.Such information is often as simple as a beer label, like Budweiser or Heineken.Of course, there are also more sophisticated and lewd ones, such as a girl’s T-shirt that reads: “The best stuff is inside.” When the poor class gather together to spend their leisure time, most people will wear clothes with various words printed on them. clothing debut.As the social class rises, the low-key principle starts to work, and the writing gradually disappears.On middle- and upper-middle-class clothing, words are replaced by trademarks or emblems, such as a crocodile.Step by step, when you find that all kinds of marks have disappeared, you can conclude that you are already in the territory of the upper class, and the T-shirts with "Coca-Cola is the real brand" printed on it belong to the poor class; The "Countess of Marat" tie is vulgar and therefore an expression of middle-class taste. There are several psychological reasons why the poorer classes feel the need to wear legible clothing, so that they do not look comical but rather sympathetic.Putting on a piece of clothing that says "Sports Illustrated," "Golden Power" (an athlete's drink), or "Lester Laning," the poor feel connected to some globally recognized, successful business. contact and, for a brief period of time, acquire a kind of importance.It would also explain why every May around the Indianapolis race track you see grown men dangling proudly in ridiculously crappy clothes that must have read "GOODYEAR" (the famous American car tire Company. -Translator's Note) or "VALVOLINE" (American famous automotive lubricants company. -Translator's Note).Commodity logos have a totem-like magic today, bringing honor to their wearers.Once you put on the readable clothes, you confuse your private identity with external commercial success, make up for the loss of your own status as insignificant, and become a person at that moment.Just send $27 to a P.O. Blue, white, or orange nylon jacket.Available in a wide range of sizes, including exclusive women's and kids' sizes, they're just right for picnic outings.This need is not unique to the poor, but also to the middle class, such as T-shirts and large canvas tote bags with the "New York Review of Books" logo, which means "I read difficult books."If the portraits of Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven are painted, it is intended to declare to people: "I am a civilized person".The middle class also favors blazers with university logos and gold-plated buttons, a message that also ties them to prominent brands such as Indiana University and LSU. 【tidy Clothes that are too new or too neat also indicate that your social situation is not stable.Upper and upper-middle-class people like to wear old clothes, as if to tell others that their social status can afford to lose traditional dignity.They dared to wear loafers barefoot, and for the same purpose.Douglas Sutherland explains the old-clothes principle in The English Gentleman (1980).He writes, "A gentleman may wear his coat to the point of fraying and show you that he does it on purpose; and at the same time, even the least discerning person will be able to tell at a glance that the coat is a work of extraordinary workmanship. Tailoring.” Both the middle class and the poor had a penchant for new clothes, often of course new clothes with a high polyester content. The neat hierarchical meaning is a more complex issue.Maybe, it's not as simple as Alison Lully thinks.She found that tidiness "is a status marker, because it always takes time and money to keep it clean." But meticulous tidiness, which is painstakingly achieved, may be a sign of concern that your social status will slip, or it may be due to You care too much about what other people think of you, both of which are low-level traits.Flawless shirt collars, tie knots that are too tight, and laundry that you take too much care to send to the laundry all reveal a lack of confidence in you.Also, being overdressed can have the same effect, making you look tacky.Take, for example, the men's bow tie—tied neatly and squarely, the effect is middle-class taste; Clumsy enough, you're undoubtedly upper class.The worst thing to do in a social situation is to be neat when you should be looking slovenly, or looking straight when you should be sloppy.To use an analogy, a car that is spotlessly scrubbed is a sign of the poor class who have lost ten thousand yuan. Only those with high social status can afford to drive dirty cars.It's like being on the street, where high-ranking people might stuff their papers in a thick brown paper folder, already uneven and maybe soaked in sweat, but never a fine leather briefcase , with shiny brass accents.Such a thing is definitely a sign of the middle class. The principle of not being too neat is especially key in men's attire.To be too careful means you are inferior - at least middle, or even poorer class status. "Dear boy, you're too well dressed to be a gentleman," Neil McWood, author of Debrett's In and Out (1980), tells an upper-class gentleman telling a middle-class Class, the tone seems to imply to the other party that you are not a gentleman, but a fashion model, or a store inspector in a department store, or an actor.Vance Packard once wrote: "A certain well-known Hollywood movie star always reveals his lower background when he takes his seat... He has the habit of lifting his trousers up to keep his trousers. ’” George IV is said to have observed Robert Peel and concluded: “He’s not a gentleman. Every time he sits down, he separates his tuxedo.” 【Suit The difference in dressing effect between the upper and lower classes of men is mainly reflected in the fact that the upper class men are more accustomed to wearing Western-style suits or at least western jackets.According to Alison Lully, a suit "makes a sloucher look elegant and fit, but it can also make a manual worker look ugly." (Athletic, or overly muscular, of course: Arnold Schwarzenegger Gage is a buffoon in a suit) The suit—preferably the “dark suit”—was thus the best weapon in the nineteenth-century battle between the bourgeoisie and the poor."The triumph of the suit ... meant that the blue-collar class, even in its best attire, was at a disadvantage in any formal confrontation with 'the upper classes,'" Lully said. Gerry: When he went to town he took pains to look perfect, only to have Pip, in his leisurely attire, do him a favour. Lully also argues that "this strategic disadvantage is still seen today on both sides of a labor conflict between a local bank and a credit company, or when a working class visits a government department." John T. Moore An example of Roy's principle of men's class signaling through clothing.He found that when two men met, "the clothing of the one said to the other, 'I am superior to you, please show respect'; or, 'I am equal to you, I hope you treat me as equal'; 'I'm not as good as you, and I don't expect you to treat me as an equal.'" From this, Molloy concluded that the status-hungry poor should be especially careful when imitating "the clothes of the rich and powerful in the Northeast." Prudence, which means that their guides should be Brooks Brothers and J. Price clothing stores (both are more conservative men's clothing stores in the United States. A translator's note). "Suits to wear to work should be plain, no fancy or extra buttons, no weird colored stitching, no chest pockets, no scuff patches on the sleeves, no belts on the back of the jacket , no leather trim, no denim shoulder pads. They should never be there.” Clothes, wherever you live, are largely a matter of habit and practice, C. White Mills argues in The Power Elite (1956).He maintains that, "Anyone who has money and is willing to buy clothes can learn how not to make himself uncomfortable by wearing a Brooks Brothers suit." Bright clothes (middle class), opt for dull clothing (upper middle class).The trouble with bourgeois clothing is that it is too smooth and always shines before it wraps its owner.Whereas upper class clothing tended to be softer, textured, cashmere-like, and knotted.Finally, the difference in clothing suggests the difference between city and country, or between toil and idleness.The country signifies real estate and leisure on horseback, not run-down dairy farms and crappy high schools, which is why upper-middle-class (and future upper-middle-class, say, Ivy League professors) generally favor tweed coats.This kind of clothing suggests country-style leisure and laziness, rather than daily wage labor in the city. The tweed jacket was an integral part of the upper-middle-class mix.If such a man is approaching you outside—in a tweed coat, waistcoat or sweater (perhaps both), shirt, tie, long wool scarf, overcoat or trench coat—he must be from a higher caste.This is like a house of the upper class must have multiple rooms for various purposes.Upper-middle-class underwear is often worn over a shirt—for example, an Oxford collared button-down shirt over a turtleneck; or a shirt underneath, or even a dress shirt with a collar ( solid color), as I saw an upper-class man wear on a warm day at 80th Street on Madison Avenue in New York.Since sweaters are almost a must for mix-and-match, a Shetland crewneck pullover (gray or fuchsia) is classy, ​​especially if paired with an Oxford collared button-down shirt (not including man-made fibers), without ties.Add an expensive tweed coat with no shoulder pads on top, and no one will dare to say that you are not upper-middle class.The sweetheart-neck sweater is ultimately designed to reveal the tie, and the look automatically signals that you're middle-class or even upper-prole.There are reports of people tucking jumpers into their trouser waists, and I can't believe it.If there is such a practice, it can only be a sign of low rank. [presidential attire A study of what recent presidents have worn may be the best way to interpret a man's hierarchical appearance.The bottom line here: Two-button suits are far more proletarian than three-button Eastern gentry suits.Most presidents have worn two-button jackets before, and once they set out to take over the leadership of the "free world," they feel obliged to make a difference, so they love three-button suits and look the same as Chase. The chairman of Manhattan Bank is similar.It is for this reason that Richard Nixon looks awkward most of the time, and when he is wearing a two-button suit, he looks like a savings and credit union in Whittle, California. The clothes that the boss will probably wear are really suitable and pleasant.Nixon's successor, Gerald Ford, wore the three-button "uniform" convincingly despite his early influence on the redneck's two-button style.And distinctly more adaptable than Nixon, perhaps.Also learn faster.But he's never been able to really take off his original attire—it's more Joe Paluca in appearance than any known American aristocrat, and Jimmy Carter has a sane assessment of himself, he Realized that he had to avoid both two-button and three-button suits, and forged an indissoluble bond with jeans.Therefore, the low vilification that attempts to criticize his unsuccessful pursuit of the image of the eastern elite finally did not happen to him. Ronald Reagan, of course, didn't need the dress code of the powerful, because he rightly felt that it was a blatant offense to his less cultured, God-fearing, intellectually distrustful voters (naturally, to It does for them).Reagan's dress style could be locked into the white Christian Protestant style of Los Angeles County (or even Orange County).The feeling of this style is that if you stubbornly believe that you are equal to those educated and cultivated people (that is, the well-dressed people in the East), then you are.He is the perfect representation of the mind and soul of the Sunbelt.His favorite look, of course, was a large two-button suit with shoulder pads and a Truman-esque white square in the breast pocket.When he was fully dressed, he looked like a pauper grandfather about to leave for church.Sometimes in his spare time (as he's usually called it), he likes to look like a cowboy.When an elderly person dresses in this way, it is especially attractive to the elderly in the "Sun Belt".One might even feel hesitant to guess how much polyester is in that outfit. Indeed, Reagan violated just about every fundamental tenet of upper- and even upper-middle-class appearance.As we've seen with our own eyes, his dyed hair is a blatant offense, as is the rouge on his cheeks. (Will the president follow up with eyeshadow and eyeliner soon?) And his white muslin shirts, which call attention to the collar stays (anxiety about tidiness ).Astonishingly, Reagan's casual clothes were made of country middle-class tartan, but not Scotch tweed.Wherever he went, he wore a perfect Windsor knot at the top of his tie--the favorite look of a young high school boy.After a press conference, Dan Rather immediately "wrapped up," trying to make sense of the president's bizarre attire, such as his light blue Oxford collar buckle Shirts and "regimental" ties make the president look like an upper-middle-class person.A sharp-eyed student of male rank marks can almost immediately deduce from Reagan's attire his small-town Midwestern political art, as we can from Roosevelt's navy cape, pince-nez and Ornaments such as cigarette holders infer his noble aristocratic politics. [Politicians wear Ronald Reagan was not alone in openly affronting all gentlemanly dress codes. Everyone in his flamboyant presidential "staff," such as Al Haig, did.Although he is no longer Secretary of State, it is appropriate to discuss him here because he aspires so much to be President. (Hague once claimed to take over the government after Reagan was shot, which caused an uproar in public opinion across the United States. According to the U.S. Constitution, when the president cannot handle government affairs, the vice president acts as the agent, and when the vice president cannot handle government affairs, the speaker of the House of Representatives acts. Haig Secretary of Defense, not qualified to take over the government. -Translator's Note) Of course, when a soldier is ordered to dress up as a civilian, it would be cruel to ask him to know the taste of clothes like the back of his hand. (Though General George Marshall, for example. He wore military uniform almost all his life, but later changed into a three-button three-piece suit quite well, as if born with high-class manners.) The most prominent lower class on Al Haig The mark of class is the collar of his coat, which is always kept at a certain distance from the neck, which usually reveals the identity of the poor class.On Al Haig, the collar of the jacket was always separated from the collar of the shirt and stuck an inch or so back and up, the effect being as if a man had been split open.This feature clearly does not imply any particular political appeal, it is merely a mark of rank.This has been confirmed by a photograph of Richard Hoggart, a radical British critic and Labor Party ardent supporter, who used it to promote a new book of his own.The collar of his coat is pictured with a full inch flung back, a gap that afflicts far left and right at the same time.In fact, what this photo reveals is not enthusiasm, but the true face of the third-rate burlesque sidekick. Or, recently, William Buckley interviewed a poor guy on his TV show.This man, from Texas, was about to conduct a review of high school textbooks in an attempt to curb promiscuity among high school students, one of many evils.Since he pronounced the word "promiscuity" as "pro-mis-kitty (the correct pronunciation is pmmiskjuiti.-Translator's Note), the audience has no idea what the man is talking about. Buckley was as gentle as possible. Corrected his mispronunciation so the audience could understand what the poor fool was talking about. While the Texan guy was confident in his unsupported energy, he repeated himself over and over again That poor pronounciation. But even if he didn't mispronounce it, we can still deduce his poor perception and sense from his collar that is two inches open. Of course, the host Keli's collar is always tight Clinging to his neck and shoulders, even when he turns around, stoops, or nods. Here, I reject any accusation that I'm not rich and poor. I'm pointing out that rich people aren't made by tailors. The difference between clothing and the store-bought stuff that the masses buy, because you can take a top off a store hanger that fits you right off the neck, or at least you can change a top into one that fits snugly around your neck. Clothes, the difference is that some people pay attention to the neckline as a sign of rank, and some people don't notice it. Douglas Sutherland in the book "The British Gentleman" believes that you must be clear to judge whether a western coat is worth wearing , the most important criterion is "Its shoulders must fit perfectly. " 【Bad Taste Sign In addition to the slashed "haiger" or "burlesque" collar, there are two other signs of lower class that are still clearly visible when your subject is not wearing a coat, and immediately indicate that person's middle class Or upper poor status.The two hallmarks are: Pockets and Belt Drapes.A pocket is a small plastic sleeve usually with an advertisement printed on the outer shell, which is placed in the top pocket of the shirt to prevent the pen or pencil inserted in the top pocket from soiling the owner's chemical fiber shirt.In the manufacturing industry, its special name is "pocket protector".Manufacturers of mail-order services for the upper poor also advertised to their customers that they could have their initials printed on the gadget.Pouch lovers are people who need to be concerned with efficiency, like a supermarket manager, or itinerant insurance salesman who wants to be noticed as they need to pull out their pens frequently. Belt drape, whether in genuine or imitation leather, was an unmistakable mark of the middle class or even the downright poor.From the finest slide rule cases, to sunglasses cases, to cigarette case cases stamped "Western Handcrafted Leather Goods," to (as one mail-order catalog put it) "Eyeglass and Pen Cases: Premium Cow Leather, Marking Your initials.” The word “holster” connotes the masculinity that all such belted gadgets can have.These belt drape are usually reserved for the poor, and thus also indicate the social class of those lower-class homosexuals, who often wear "key rings" dangling back and forth on their belts to indicate their "sexual orientation".The reason why it is so hard for us to believe that an engineer will be a member of the upper middle class.It is because of his habit.He had been in the habit of hanging all kinds of objects from his belt since his college days—either a slide rule or a calculator, or something as simple as a geological pickaxe. Picture a man in summer attire that matches the job he is doing - a white short-sleeved shirt (usually polyester), tie, dark trousers, one pocket in his shirt pocket, A middle-class or upper-poor clerk who works in a hardware store.现在请注意：你只需在他的腰带上外加一件或数件悬垂物，并在他头上惹人注目地扣上一顶白色安全帽，他顿时就成了一名“工程师”。因此，当工程师出现在老板或工人，资方或劳方，脑力劳动者或体力劳动者之间时，由于这些倒霉的腰带悬垂物，他们的社会等级问题总是显得难以确定。实际上，任何形式的腰带悬垂物，就算它们没有不光彩地耷拉着，必定是上层贫民的标志。例如，装在人造革套子里的墨镜，哪怕是让它在衬衫第一个纽扣眼下侧晃荡，也不要惹眼地别在腰间——前一种方式是中产阶级的，反正至少不是贫民的习惯。 【衬衫领子 如果兜袋和腰带悬垂物能即刻表明贫民倾向，另一些标识的作用同样显著。当你在衬衫外罩了一件毛衣或上衣而不系领带的话，衬衫领子怎么处理？上层或中上层人士会把整个衬衫领放在毛衣或上衣里面，我猜部分是因为，这样做的效果是“漫不经心”而非“整洁”。另一方面，除非你是一位以色列议会成员或者希伯莱大学讲师，你一旦把不打领带的衬衫领子翻到上衣外面，你就是一位刺眼的中产阶级或贫民人士——但也说不定，要知道，在外出骑马或其他户外运动时，总统也喜欢这种作法。 事实上，衬衫在昭示等级差别上是最雄辩的服装之一，衬衫会以无数方式使你失掉等级地位。在“白上穿白”使人立刻跌到中产阶级或上层贫民的地位；而在短袖衬衫或T恤（就像《蜜月人》里的艾得·诺顿）外面罩上一件坎肩，则让人跌至中下层贫民地位。有时能见到T恤外挂上吊裤带的穿法，这效果好比在短袜上套一双凉鞋。特别是在英国，但也包括美国国内的崇英地区，这种穿法表明你是一名中产阶级中学教师（教数学或者化学），倘若还着一身假日装束，你就分明是在暗暗渴望沦为上层贫民。 【饰物 饰物，也是使人社会等级迅速降低的东西，例如小珐琅质的“旧日光荣”翻领别针，不是精神病患者，就是在自己选区进行竞选活动的玩世不恭的政治家喜戴的。如果他们的夫人佩戴水晶石颜色的同类别针，效果是让她们显得地位更低，比如说，低到了下层贫民。有关手表的普遍等级准则是：越科学、越技术化、越富于太空时代特色，等级就越低。这一准则也适用于“信息量”过于密集的手表，比如提供吉隆坡当地时间，显示今年所剩的天数，或者指示星座标志等等。一些喜爱戴黑色蜥蜴表带的卡蒂埃表（Cartier）的上层阶级认为，甚至有秒针也会损及戴表人的社会等级，好像他是公共汽车站负责发车和到站的职业计时员，对时间的精确性必须锱铢必较。上层人物喜爱的另一类手表，常是最便宜最简单的蒂麦克斯表（Timex），用经过消光处理的横棱表带，而且时常更换，这种表在正式场合配黑色表带会很逗趣。贫民阶层错误地以为袖扣很有等级，特别是库尔特·冯尼格的《五号屠场》中的配镜师英雄比利·皮尔格林的衣橱里的那种。这类玩意儿要么模仿罗马硬币，尺寸挺大；要么是真能转动的小轮盘；要么是“一对实用的东西：左边一个温度计，右边一个指南针”。这类袖扣让人想起用“最好的人类臼齿标本”做的袖扣，《伟大的盖茨比》中的梅那·沃尔夫舍姆就曾骄傲地向人夸耀过这类东西。 【雨衣 另一个显著的社会等级差异是雨衣的颜色。约翰·T·莫罗伊经过广泛和相当努力的研究之后发现，米黄色雨衣远比黑色、橄榄绿或深兰色雨衣级别要高。的确，黑色雨衣看来是可信度极高的贫民阶层标识。莫罗伊因此大力敦促那些跃跃欲试改变外观的贫民读者尽快为自己添置米黄色雨衣。据估计，米黄色暗示一个人对可能溅上污渍的危险毫不在意。米黄色具有“去你的，我不在乎”的劲头，这是谨慎的黑色所欠缺的气质。现在，你就不会再纳闷，为什么《我爱露西》中的里奇·里卡度会身披黑色雨衣了。 【长裤 标识着中上阶层，尤其是郊区中上阶层的运动长裤或休闲长裤同样具有这种“去你的”精神。常见类型是绣着绿色小青蛙的白色帆布裤。它的变种是绣有深兰色鲸鱼的淡绿长裤，也可以绣信号旗、钟浮标、浮标，龙虾，以及任何有上流社会气息的图案。它们统统为了表明这位穿戴者刚刚从他那体积可观的游艇上信步踱下来。白底的甲板鞋同样奏效，穿它是为了能“在滑湿的甲板上站稳”。同样，有许多根束带的防风衣也能显示这点。克里斯游艇公司的邮购专递业务会为你提供可以模仿的样本，但中上阶层以下的人们在追随时应该谨慎，采用游艇主人式风格一般较难令人信服，因为那一类仪态中习惯性的从容随意、被风吹乱的头发造成的精致的不修边幅，实在难以模仿。并且，你的脖于还得又长又瘦才行。 【领带 关于男于领带的等级含意这一主题，恐怕需要一本书的篇幅才能谈透。这里我只能粗略勾勒出几条普遍原则。尽管领带在多层混穿中扮演的角色，与纤维在服装质地的效果中起的作用一样，可以简略地一笔带过，但仍是一个不容忽视的方面。也因为这一原因，领带实在与高尚地位息息相关。有必要指出，完全不打领带可能表明一个人的阶层极高——比如上层，为的是凌驾于各种批评和指责之上，使得传统意义上的社会尊重法则不再适用。莫罗伊的一项试验令人满意地记录了领带与职责、雇员身份、以及驯服的中产阶级其他特质所具有的关联。他让一些男子参加职业应聘面试，其中只让一部分男子打着领带。他发现： “无一例外地，打着领带的先生们得到了工作，而没打领带的则遭到了拒绝。尤其令人意外的一个情境是，一位不打领带的应征者……让主持面试的人感到极不舒服，他索性给了应试者6．50美元，叫他立刻出门买一根领带，系好，再回来完成面试。当然这位应试者还是没得到那份工作。” 莫罗伊的另一项实验表明，领带的确是区分中产阶级和贫民阶层的重要标记。他这次实验瞄准了纽约可怕的公共汽车总站。这地方素来以种种能触动人们想象力极限的恶行、伤害和肆无忌惮的暴力著称。莫罗依将自己装扮成一名中产阶级男士，假装忘了带钱包，正不得不赶回郊区的家。当时正值高峰时间，他试着向人借75美分买张车票。头一个小时他穿着套装但不打领带，后一个小时他穿戴齐整，衬衫领带一应俱全。他叙述道：“头一个小时，我总共借到了7美元23美分；第二个小时，由于领带的关系，我弄到了26美元，其中一位男子甚至还额外给了我买报纸的钱。” 衣服上的可读标识使人的身分降级，似乎作为报复，这一原则也适用于领带。上层人物的领带回避任何稍稍明显的文字形式，哪怕是极为简单的象征性表达。他们选择条纹，薄软绸变形虫斑点、或者小圆点，以期表明自己等级很高，根本无需操心要通过文字或图画在胸前标明等级。（这也是隐私原则的体现，好像在说：管好你中产阶级小气和让人恶心的事罢，别想从我的领带上嗅出什么秘密。这是典型的贵族式态度。）深色底衬白圆点也许是最为保守的领带图案，不但上层和中上层人士喜欢，就是报刊记者。电视新闻播音员或体育报导员，也对这种图案报一种防御性的激赏，他们顾虑自已被人看低，怕被视为粗陋之辈、酒鬼或者愤世嫉俗之人。供职于大都市里的银行信贷部的人也会选择这种款式，以确保自己的信托声誉让人完全放心。 沿着条纹、圈形或圆点向下走，低一级的领带图案开始表达明显和确切的文字意义。某些设计专为显示中上阶层的运动品格，多以飞翔的小雉鸡。小游艇，信号旗和六分对角图案为主。（好像在说：“我打猎，还有游艇。我有钱，还爱运动！”）再次一级的是“背景”图案，这类设计专为显示其穿戴者的职业，并加以庆贺。中上阶层成员中不稳定的人（例如外科大夫），中产阶级中渴望脐身中上层的人（例如会计），会选择这类领带。因此，印有墨丘利节杖（美国医学界象征。一译者注）的领带就是在声明，“瞧瞧吧！我是个医师！”（注意，没有专为牙医设计的“背景”图案）。小天平：“我是个律师。”如果是乐符：“我的工作与音乐有关”。美元标记或钱袋：“股票经纪人，银行家，获得巨大成功的整形外科医生，或是彩票赢家。”我甚至见过绘有小型军用吉普车图案的领带，却捉摸不透它的含意。因为假如您是我们打过的任何一场战争中的司机，你大概不会忙着去告诉别人吧。其他一些自我祝福的图案包括小鲸鱼、小海豚或小海豹，表明你不但热爱大自然，还花了很多时间保护大自然，因此你是一个不错的人。带有英式（千万不可以是德式、法式。意式。西班牙式、葡萄牙式或白俄式）军团、俱乐部或大学专用色条子的“棱纹平丝绸”领带，可与以上所有的“背景”式领带替换使用。 我们越是下溯等级阶层，领带上的文字也就油然增多，因为这类领带就是供人研读和品评的。这类展示性艺术品之一是深兰色的“祖父领带”，斜角上的白色手绘字是孙儿的名字。想象一下打上这根领带可以激发的谈话吧！另一种则写着“我宁愿去航海”、或“我宁愿去滑雪”等等。这类领带统统可以被视作对个人隐私的有效触及，从而能“激发对话”，是有用的巩固中产阶级地位的工具，与他们的另一个传统——希望邻居心无顾虑地随时造访——有异曲同工之妙。这一类中更低一等的领带常常试图表达出绝顶的机灵，如“感谢主，今天星期五”，或者“噢，见鬼，今天礼拜一”等等，实际上很拙劣。若将上述感叹语变成缩写，再加上游艇信号旗并置于领带上，你就能在博取观众一笑的同时，将自己的等级往上提一点。至于濒临上层贫民边缘的中产阶级底层，我们开始看到用鲜艳的颜色画的大花朵、或者干脆明亮的“艺术”色块出现在领带上。这类讯号不外乎在传递“我是一个开心汉”的信息。莫罗伊在讨论领带时，不忘谆谆告诫“开心汉”们，“无论何时何地，千万忌用紫色。” 再往下，当我们发现，在领带上提示游艇所有权或开心汉身份未免大荒唐时，我们知道面对的是上层或中层贫民的“流星锤”领带了：毛线或皮革条织就，一枚金属夹（通常是青绿色或银白色）扣在上面，此人多半是居住在“阳光地带”比如新墨西哥州的退休人员。与其他各类领带如出一辙，它们的声明是：“别管看上去怎么样，其实我跟你一样不错。我的'领带'尽管可能出格，倒真的要比你那条传统的好。因为它意味着原始，所以一点也不妄自尊大。它纯洁，而且正直。”流星锤还说，“戴上我的人是自然的孩子，哪怕他有八十岁。”像贫民购置的许多东西一样，这类流星锤领带可能价格不菲，尤其配着稀有金属制作的标有“艺术品”字样的领带夹。道理仍然是，钱虽重要，却不总是等级地位的标准。 处于流星锤佩戴者之下的是下层贫民。赤贫阶层和看不见的底层。他们从来不打领带，或者即使打，也只有一条。由于打领带的日子屈指可数，所以他们往往对此记忆犹新。对这群人而言，领带是造作甚至骄奢的象征，像故作文雅的淫逸之辈那样系上这么一根玩意儿，只是浪得虚名，这跟在内心想象自己比别人高出一筹没什么两样。一位贫民主妇这样谈到她的配偶：“只要殡仪员同意，我会让我丈夫穿着T恤下葬。” 【帽子 今天，帽子比领带更容易说明等级问题，因为少见。自从浅底软毡帽消失以后，中上阶层的男士就只能戴拙劣的类似品了——“俄罗斯”皮毛帽，国会议员派特·莫尼汉喜爱的L． L． BEAN牌“爱尔兰”花呢帽，或者在顶层人物中流行的软垂边白色钓鱼帽或网帽，尽管它也曾被富兰克林·D·罗斯福喜爱过。如今，只有把帽子当作无足轻重的饰物，才能赋予它等级的意味。严肃地看待戴帽一事，只会使自己的身份降低。这尤其是指那类新奇的帽子，比如八十年代早期东北部的中产阶级和西中部的上层阶级酷爱的棕色或黑色平顶软兔毛帽，他们一度籍此猎取他人的敬意，同时出出风头。还曾在这群人中走俏的新式帽是一种带深兰色帽舌的“希腊渔夫帽”，这种帽于的广告曾登在《纽约人》杂志上。这款帽的用途是为它的主人声明：“我去过希腊，因此我富裕。我富到有钱乘坐奥林匹克航空公司的飞机飞那么远的路程。我还敢于冒险，亲自品尝了异国风味，比如松香味希腊葡萄酒，希腊红鱼子酱色拉等等。”这类头饰的问题在于它与贫民的联系，一旦出现黑皮革质料的款式，就会愈发显得离奇和令人惊诧。实际上，只有六种皮革制品不会损害主人的等级地位，它们是：腰带，鞋，手提包，手套，照相机盒套和拴爱犬的绳子。 过去，当沙皇尼古拉大帝和英王乔治五世还戴游艇帽时，帽舌还没像今天这样立即指示出贫民身份。今天，帽舌不光与希腊渔夫有关，还与工人、士兵、汽车司机、警察、铁路职员和棒球手有联系。因此，贫民阶层本能地对带沿帽有好感，这也是带沿帽之所以在他们中如此流行的原因，以至于我们把这种帽于称作了“贫民帽”。这种“棒球帽”用红、兰、黄等颜色的塑料网状物制成，后部镂空，下沿横钉一条可以调整宽窄的带子：“一个尺码，适用全体（贫民）”。不论贫民帽的标准风格如何，重要的一点是：必须丑陋。贫民男人戴上它的效果，与他们的妻子穿上紫色化纤类紧身裤的效果旗鼓相当。像所有的其他衣物一样，贫民帽也有一定意指。当它碰上的人受过昂贵的教育，坚持尊贵的人类理想形象应该在意大利圣马可露天广场或希腊帕特农神庙里的人物上展现，或者相信理想的男性头型是米开朗基罗的《大卫像》或西斯廷教堂壁画上的亚当。它就会说：“我比你一点不差。”后部的小带于是重要的贫民阶层特征，因为它降低了买主的身份，这些人如今干的事从前是卖主的义务——帽商们曾经不得不大量贮存各类尺寸的帽子以供选择。当代生活中其他这类特别吸引贫民的产品，如喷气式飞机或超级市场，也有此特点。为了卖主的便利所作的一切，被说成是为了买主的便利。为使贫民帽的丑陋更加夺目，人们有时会将帽于反转过来扣在头上，可调节的帽带抢眼地横跨过额头，仿佛帽主人为这种“一个尺码，适用全体”的小玩意儿深感骄傲，不由自主地要展示这一“技术”和自己对此技术的“掌握”。里根总统过去曾在一次演出中戴过一顶贫民帽，当时他正矗立在皮奥里亚一辆拖拉机的顶上，看上去非常自然。任何人如果还对贫民帽的等级含意难于判断，浏览一下中上阶层的L． L． BEAN男帽商品目录便会释然。这个品牌提供的头部用品几乎应有尽有，但恰恰和塑料贫民帽划清界线，尽管出于市场考虑还是提供了一款，却是鹿皮制的。仅次于T恤，贫民帽是展示语言的最佳场地，从粗鲁的“上你”到温和的“卡罗莱纳工具和工程公司”，“鲍德温过滤器”，或“帕克牌蜡肠”。汤姆·卡菲的贫民冰琪淋摊贩，会头戴前方写着“卡菲”几个大字的贫民帽。 人们也许会认为，贫民帽是各类男子帽饰中的最低点。wrong.贫民帽离深渊底层还差一两步。一种是贫民帽的改版，帽沿上添了一副可折叠的太阳镜镜片。比这个滑稽透顶的把戏更显低劣的则是桑伯雷拉帽。这种帽子依靠一条箍带上的若干小支撑物直立在人的脑袋上，并能像雨伞一样一开一合。这“雨伞”约二十英寸宽，“伞骨”上的V形三角布通常呈红色或白色。这真是彻头彻尾的“现代派”。这主意恐怕只有二十世纪末期的人才想得出来。 【高级品味：古风崇拜 说到这里，不得不谈谈崇古之风和最高阶层的趣味了。我们已经明白，羊毛和木材一类有机材料要比尼龙和塑料之类人造物等级高。这就是中产阶级为什么会选择“殖民风格”或“科德角”房屋的原因，同理，在美国人眼中，英国和欧洲仍是有等级的，遗产和“老钱”也因此成为重要的等级准则。因此，“看不见的顶层”和上层会让他们的仆人穿上古老的制服，或者保留某些遗风——如女仆系白围裙或男管家身着条纹背心。这种作法意在暗示，这个家庭的财富来源久远，这个家庭的后裔还保留着很久以前的生活习惯。 范伯伦所谓有闲阶层“对古风的崇敬”随处可见：中上阶层大多喜欢歌剧和古典芭蕾舞；喜欢将自己的后代送往男女分校的预科寄宿中学，因为那儿与男女混校相比更稀有，所以也更有古风；常去欧洲或中东观赏古迹；学习“人文科学”而非电子工程，因为人文科学涉及过去，能熏陶出挽歌式的情感。甚至学习法律也有一种诱人的古韵：那些带拉丁词尾的英语，那些渊源久远的“案例”。有等级的人们从不筹划未来，筹划未来是交通运输工程师、计划人员和发明家一类粗俗庸人的“专利”。说到老练的电视观众对黑白旧片的热爱，英国批评家彼得·康拉德是这样评论的：“所有那些已经衰朽的、遗弃的、消亡的风格样式，就是我们需要的。”由于上层等级把对古风的忠诚视作自己这个等级的准则（如对老式服装的钟爱，就标志着他们的尚古情感）。至于那些较低的等级，除了迫不及待地冲向新鲜事物，还能有什么别的打算？不光是闪闪发亮的外套，还有相机，电器、立体声音响。花样翻新的手表、电器化厨房、电子游戏等等，不一而足。 不过，正如拉塞尔·林斯在《品味制造者》中提到的，尽管存在大公司为博得贫民欢心树立的现代性正面，还有·上等商业阶层隐藏在正面风景背后的怀古风情。“如果您愿意拜访纽约的雷佛屋，”他写道， “你会发现，姿态优雅地座落于公园大道一座玻璃盒子里的，就是雷佛兄弟公司的办公室。您会发现，管理人员的地位越高，他们周围的陈设就越古旧。为公众服务的前台是大胆的现代风格，职员和部门经理的办公室依照实用的方式设计，等走进上层管理者的办公室，你会发现那儿有早期美国风味的壁炉和技形吊灯……如果你愿意来J·瓦尔特·汤普森公司的行政管理人员餐厅……你会发现自己在一间科德角式风格的房子里，屋里装饰着温莎坐椅和小块地毯，窗户有木质边框。” 诚如每一位推销员的经验，如果您在卖什么东西，卖古旧货对你的社会地位比较有利，比如原汁酒或未杀菌的奶酪，没加防腐剂的面包，文艺复兴时期的艺术品，或者珍稀书籍。卖旧货的确能平衡什么都卖带来的等级耻辱，甚至经营原质海绵也要比卖人造海绵在等级上更可取。这样一来，我们就可以欣赏有机的和古老的物品是如何融为有格调的事物了。 部分由于英国曾经有过鼎盛时期，“英国崇拜”是上层品味中必不可少的要素，举凡服装、文学、典故、举止作派、仪式庆典等等。当然我们也注意到，现今崇英阶层生活格调的种种反讽意味。在英国称雄世界的十九世纪，势利之徒模仿英国时尚当属自然之举。势利之辈如今依然这么做，却并非由于英国的强大，而是其衰弱腐朽。拥有和陈列英国物品会显示一个人的尚古之情，上层和中上阶层的品味也因此得到确立。于是会有格子呢裙，雪特兰毛衣，哈里斯花呢外套，伯百丽风衣，“军团”式领带。中产阶级以上的普通美国男性一般认为，“衣着得体”意味着，你应该尽可能让自己看上去像五十年前老电影中描绘的英国绅土。最高阶层中的年轻一代总要学习骑术，正因为那套最好的社交装备以及附属饰件是从英国进r＝的。最高阶层的食物亦与英式风格相似：淡而无味，松软粘糊。口味淡而且少变化。中上阶层的周日晚餐菜谱也是一份英式翻版：烤肉，西红柿和两样蔬菜。身居圣詹姆斯宫的美国大使仍会感觉有必要强调他的上层地位，哪怕他是沃尔特·安宁伯格本人（美国著名富翁和艺术收藏家，曾出任美国驻英国大使。－译者注）。这跟到斯里兰卡或者委内瑞拉当大使可不一样。 深深铭刻在美国意识中的一种崇古，尤可见于美国大学建筑设计中哥特式风格的盛行：高等教育机构越是占雅得地道，就越让人追忆起它们的两位英同先驱（指英国的牛津和剑桥大学。－译者注）。因此，加州格兰代尔的一家低等函授文凭作坊，为了吸引贫民阶层的美元，竞会为自己取名叫肯辛顿大学（指英国皇家的肯辛顿宫，位于伦敦海德公园一侧。一译者注）。只有当你从贫民和中产阶级各州向美国东北移动，直到接近中上阶层时，你才会感到扑面而来的“英格兰母亲”的浓郁气息，那气味仿佛发自昂贵的旧皮革滚边。杰那斯液化物和焦油肥皂。你这才意识到，中上阶级确实相信，牛津和剑桥同哈佛和那鲁相比，不仅更古老，而且更好，当然更不用说密歇很大学了。研究一番中上阶级，你会发现他们相信史瓦皮斯苏打水要比白石苏打水更好，尽管他们一向以冷落广告为荣。餐桌上，你不但会听到人们时不时地提及皇室，还必须洗耳恭听有关查尔斯王子，戴安娜王妃，玛格丽特公主，安公主，安德鲁亲王，以及威廉小王子的热烈的长篇大论。 不光中上阶层，中产阶级的崇英情结也不可小视。例如，我曾与一位朋友有过一次书信往来。这位“发展商”或建筑承包商在为他的一条街苦苦构思街名时，来信恳求我帮助（当时我住在骑士街）。他请我按字母顺序列出一份有等级的——也即英式——街名，以便招徐那些中等地位以上的买主。我深感此事有关他的顾客的自尊乃至精神健康，立即回覆了一份名单，开头是这样的： 阿尔伯马尔 Berkeley 卡文迪许 Devon 伊克塞特 范莎乌，等等。 他要做的无非是在后面添加这类词尾，比如： 大街 短街 环形路 trail 小道（如“公园小径”） 园林街 这样，他的买主就会免遭居住在麦克吉利卡提大街或伯恩斯但林荫大道或瓜泊街一类街道上承受的耻辱了。当我的名单——从Lsndsdowne，Montpelier，Osborne到Priory ——快接近尾声时，我不得不在“W”词条中写下了“Wind-sor”(温莎，英国王室著名城堡，由温莎公爵得名。一译者注）。今天，也许某个可怜的家伙正在困惑不解地想：他在温莎街221号住了这么多年，又没住在俗气的西大街，成功为什么还是迟迟不肯降临呢？一些可怕的新崛起的地方（像休士顿），总是很快在自己周围营造出大片郊区，然后标上令人震惊的英国地名，比如以下这些名字（它们当真是休士顿的地名）： 诺丁汉橡树庄园 阿富顿橡树庄园 茵弗内斯森林别墅 舍伍德森林别墅 布列斯庄园 麦利迪斯庄园 甚至还有一处“三叶草庄园”，不但没什么英格兰风味，连等级地位也令人生疑。所幸休士顿离波士顿很有一段距离，恐怕谁也不会亲自去探个究竟。（三叶草为爱尔兰国花。波士顿是美国爱尔兰移民最集中的城市。一译者注）这倒是让人想起了那位可怜的赫尔曼·塔罗尔医生。他那中上阶层的女友为了掩饰他的庸俗，在他的客厅里撒满英国杂志，结果害得他一命呜呼。 只要是英国的，就一定有档次——这种感觉促使一些人更名换姓，只为听起来带有英国味。没有人会愿意把波什尼兹改成加伯利尼，但人人都乐意不叫霍洛维茨，改称霍依。如果你经营的是平淡无味的小面团，把它们叫做英国松饼吧，您的买卖一定会蒸蒸日上的！