Chapter 6 Cai Lan talks about eating-6

When eating noodles in Shanghai, apart from "Wuyue family", Shanghainese must compare with "Canglang Pavilion".The two families basically sell the same noodles, the bowl is "Wu. Big, the portion is two The people are the same, and the soup base is not much different. The ingredients and noodles are separated, and the small dish is served first, which is called "topping".I ordered four dishes of toppings, stewed pork with soy sauce, stir-fried loin slices with sauce, gluten with mushrooms, and stir-fried vegetables. Some people didn't know the name, so they came in and asked the waitress to point to my dish: "It's the same as his!"

Later, I saw another old foodie who could order hard noodles or rotten noodles. I didn't know that there was such a way of eating, which showed that I was from a big village. The waitress came over, and I asked her, "Why don't you ask the customers what kind of noodles they want?" "When you buy tickets at the counter, you have to make it clear!" She smiled happily, "We also have toppings for crossing the bridge, bottom pouring, extra pouring, wide soup, tight soup and extra noodles. Having said so much, I really don't know how to pour it.I always like to eat noodles with soup. Like lo mein, no soup is added to the noodles. I think this is the only way to taste the original taste of noodles.

"Then next time you come, order noodles and soup. The waitress taught me. Learned one more thing. "In our service projects, there are special needs. Try to meet this one. If you say it, we will do it." She said that she taught me another lesson. The three characters "Canglang Pavilion" on the signboard are beautifully written by Mr. Qian Junxiong. I heard that the previous three characters were written by Mr. Wu Hufan, but they were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. If you only have time for one noodle meal in Shanghai, I would recommend this one, at least, it has an ingredient shelf with coriander, spring onion, minced garlic and various seasonings, there are ten kinds in total, you can choose and eat No shame.It has many branches, the one I went to was on Huaihai Road.

In our living habits, we like to drink tea and eat dim sum. Of course, Cantonese dim sum is endlessly varied. Northern dim sum is also good in Hong Kong, just like in the past.Goubuli, Nonghuangwugang soup and roast chicken in "Le Gonglou". At that time, the restaurant was famous because of its four popular dishes: Fried Crab Noodles, Shrimp Wontons, Shortbread with Bean Paste and Two-faced Yellow.Today, the store combines all Jiangnan dim sum, with hundreds of varieties, and the inter-branch has become a catering institution, which is merged into the Westgate Group and has greater influence.At the entrance, guests are not allowed to sit downstairs. A group of employees unpack crab noodles and make pan-fried buns. The place

Hygienic, the process is clean, and it can be seen clearly. Immediately steam it hot and eat it in a basket. It is very fragrant, the soup is rich, and the skin is as thin as paper.The cabbage spring rolls are plain on the outside, but the inside is wet when you bite into them. The fresh meat is small wontons. It is best eaten with full-color blood soup. The freshest pig red is used, and the shrimps are yellow on both sides. The fried noodles in soup are much more exciting, and the shortbread with shredded radish is also delicious. When I saw the noodle soup with pork loin and shrimp, I wanted a bowl right away. The taste is not inferior to the "Kui Yuan Guan" in Hangzhou.

Desserts include five-nut shortbread.Eight-treasure rice has a unique name called "not too sweet", and it is indeed not too sweet after eating. Shanghainese foodies in Hong Kong must remember this restaurant, and their mouths are watering when they think of it.I originally wanted to invite Westgate to come over, but it cooks big dishes, which are not suitable for the style of the gourmet shop. It is better to have "Wang Jiasha" under it. Everyone is lucky, and it will open in Hong Kong next month. They sell Yangzhou dishes, so what is there to eat in Yangzhou Lai? Serve six appetizers first, three cold and three hot: Carmine makeup is pickled with thin slices of Xinmei radish, rolled into very small rolls and served on the table. It is as beautiful as the name, and the most important thing is good taste.Hongmei Hanrui is stuffed with lotus seeds into red dates and placed in the shape of a Buddha's head.The combing mushroom cuts the raw material into pork loin shape, and the taste is adjusted like pork loin.Xinfeng eel is smoked eel, the subcutaneous fat is very thick, it is impossible to eat eel without fat.Taibai chicken is just a small dish, but the whole chicken is used, the most delicate part is taken, and the rest is discarded.The golden ribs taste like Wuxi bones, and the thinnest ribs are used, which is worthy of the name.

The side dishes are already very exciting, and the famous "Yangzhou Three Sets of Duck" is on the stage when it comes to the main dishes. The so-called three sets of ducks are made by putting domestic ducks in wild ducks, wild ducks in pigeons and ham, and stewing for eight hours. Its soup is extremely sweet, and it is eaten with dried pigeon breasts alone.This dish does have unexpected surprises that have not been tried for a long time.Another rare thing is the "Grilled Roasted Pig's Head", because there were not many people there, we only ordered half of it, but it was still a big plate. The pork head was so fragrant and tender, it was not easy.It turns out that pig breeds are also specially selected, and not every pig is delicious.No wonder Ximen Qing likes to eat pig's head, if it is cooked so convincingly, everyone will like it.

"Sanwei mandarin fish" is a mandarin fish processed in three steps, steamed, rolled up, fried into slices, and then fried into pieces, put together into the shape of a whole fish and served on the table. Surprisingly, each part is not cold.Of course fried rice is served at the end, who said there is no fried rice in Yangzhou? What kind of thing is Taiwan's superstitious "Eight Immortals Fruit"? When I saw the shape for the first time, I was also attracted by it.Like grown-up fists, brown.Use a layer of red on the outside It is wrapped in a colored net, most of which is plastic.One by one hanging outside the hawker stall for sale.It is said to be "fruit", but it is definitely not a fruit. There is absolutely no such strange-shaped fruit growing in the world.

The hawker slices it open with a knife, then cuts it into small fan-shaped pieces, puts it on a plate for passing guests to try, and immediately grabs a few pieces and puts them in the mouth. The taste is sweet, salty, sweet, without the sourness of salty wet goods, and it is better than Jiayingzi and olives.Because it contains mint, the throat feels a little cold after eating. It brings back the taste of the small salty golden dates that I ate when I was a child, but the Eight Immortals are more like medicine than snacks. "It's good to eat when you have a cough!" The hawker boasted.

A housewife next to me agreed, and she knew it was collusion: "Yes! I heard it's okay. What about tuberculosis? " At that time, karaoke singing was just popular, and the girl who sang it didn't know if she wanted to earn a commission, so she tried her best to sell it: "Eat the Eight Immortals, the singing is very good." Buy a pack from the factory, and read the instructions that really say: "Singer's holy product", and other four-character functions: cough and phlegm, saliva and thirst, refreshing voice and throat, good prescription for teachers, travel Must wait, if the paper is big enough, it will be written in four characters.

When Kara spread to the mainland, the Eight Immortal Fruit also landed, and this kind of thing was also seen in snack shops in the Pearl River Delta.Most of them are pre-cut. When I bought it for a try, I found that it was a fake with a lot of flour and potato flour added. Not all Taiwanese products are good. After trying it out, only "Li Jinli" is the best. Relatives passed by and rushed back from Hong Kong to pay respects.I go in the morning, return in the afternoon, and have dinner, so I randomly arrange it nearby, but I feel satisfied, especially when I think of my noodle-crazy friends, I need to introduce them. Spaghetti King has been open in Taipei for more than 50 years, and there are two in total. The one we often go to is the one in Shilin District.The front is open, with a kitchen cabinet facing the front and several other tables, which can seat thirty or forty guests. The so-called Italian noodles in Taiwan are completely different from our "Yi noodles". There are more silver noodles like wonton noodles than dry-roasted Yi noodles.The noodles are thinner and softer than silver noodles, but not as elastic as silver noodles.It is imported and has a good taste. There are alkaline water and eggs in the noodles, which are very fragrant, not as tasteless as white Shanghai noodles. The master puts a small bamboo cage into the boiling soup, throws a ball of noodles, uses another bamboo cage to press the noodles to prevent them from falling apart, and moves the two bamboo cages up and down for about a minute. bath is ripe Put soy sauce, dried shallots and minced meat in the empty bowl, put the noodles in, stir it, then spread the noodles with bean sprouts, and a bowl of dry pasta can be served.If you order pasta in soup, add MSG water and serve.The amount of noodles is not much, and it is enjoyable to eat, at least two bowls are required.I like to eat noodles, but I didn't order two bowls, and I ordered dry rice noodles for the other bowl.Taiwanese rice noodles are fine, elastic and delicious. Cutting plate is a small plate made by slicing the ingredients, grabbing a pinch of shredded ginger, and pouring thick "soy sauce paste". The choices include pork heart, pork liver, three-layer meat, squid, roast pork, sausage and marinated eggs. Shark slices are a specialty, which is rare in Hong Kong. The other "liver", which has nothing to do with the liver, is the meat called pig lung skirt by the Cantonese. The soup has fish ball soup, which is different from Chaozhou. Filling. Wontons are made into small pieces, very good. If you are looking for noodles in Taipei, you might as well try "Spaghetti King". Soy sauce paste, 3. *8", only available in Taiwan. The thickest soy sauce used by Hong Kong people is also 2 to 1" pearl oil.Unlike Taiwan, it is already in the shape of "paste". The so-called "paste" is also a bit exaggerated, but it is as thick as tomato sauce, not as sticky as plaster. Soy sauce paste is not blindly salty, it tastes the same as ordinary soy sauce, there are light and salty.In salty food, one must also distinguish between clear and unclear, and between fragrant and not fragrant. This is the only way for a veteran to distinguish. Under what circumstances do you use soy sauce paste? The most typical one is the hawker stall of Chia Zai Noodles. In the small glass window, there are cooked pork liver, pig heart, small tripe, etc., as well as smoked shark meat. The customer asked for a plate, and the hawker sliced ​​it with a knife, spread some shredded ginger, added a spoonful of soy sauce paste, and served it on the table. The taste of the soy sauce paste and the pig’s internal organs matched perfectly. If ordinary soy sauce was used, it would be completely different. Then it's over. When eating smoked shark meat, in addition to soy sauce paste, horseradish should be added.Of course it's not raw grinding, Mixed with cheap wasabi powder, it feels like a chemical green, very unnatural green, very scary. Taiwanese people like to eat offal, better than meat. They think that the only meat that can rival offal is the "liver axillary", which is our pig lung skirt.With some shredded ginger and soy sauce paste, it is also a masterpiece in the world. For the Qiezi noodles on the street, the word Qiezi does not refer to brewing, nor does it mean noodles. Qiezi should mean "cutting" all the ingredients randomly. The noodles are like oil noodles, but the smell of soap is not strong. , Divide the soup and the ones, order a bowl of dry ones, and the hawker will drizzle with soy sauce paste.It's a lot like we add oyster sauce to the noodles.Yes, soy sauce paste can be said to be Taiwanese oyster sauce, and it looks like it.Oyster sauce depends on the umami of oysters, and the umami of soy sauce comes from the fragrance of beans.Generally, the soy sauce paste sold in the market is not tasty. If you want to buy it, remember the "Sayou" produced in Xiluo, represented by "Ruichun Soy Sauce Factory". The typical Taiwanese food also includes fried rice noodles, which are also seasoned with high-quality soy sauce.Completely different from Cantonese rice noodles, Taiwanese are very fine.Kung fu lies in the details Rice noodles are not easy to break. The best rice noodles are produced in Hsinchu, so they are called Hsinchu rice noodles. The treatment method is to rinse the rice noodles with cold water, take them out and put them in a container immediately, and never soak them.After washing, the rice noodles will become soft after three to five minutes. At this time, they can be fried. I have written about the frying method before, so I won’t repeat it. Because Hsinchu rice noodles are steamed, there is no need to boil them with hot water. If you want to eat soup, just put the rinsed rice noodles into the pot after the soup boils, cook for a minute, and then eat. Some people become addicted to eating Hsinchu rice noodles, and they get better and better, just like eating beef.I almost picked it up immediately when I went down. : The belt is hard, so hard that it rubs against the throat, and then it screams happily! Hsinchu rice noodles are very durable, and the shelf life is as long as three years. Every time I go to Hsinchu, I buy a few Ten packs back, it is very light scale, the luggage will not be too heavy.In Hong Kong, it is difficult to find good Hsinchu rice noodles, so stock up on them. "Longji Brand" is one of the best Hsinchu rice noodles, produced by "Jinchun" rice noodle factory. However, Hsinchu rice noodles give everyone the feeling that they are very white. Is it artificially bleached? I am a little worried at first.Now, it is popular among Taiwanese to eat "organic rice noodles". The rice used as raw material does not use pesticides. Unlike other cheap rice flour mixed with corn flour during the production process, it is absolutely not bleached, so the color is browner, and no preservatives are added. Eat as early as possible after opening, although it is stated on the label It is written that it can be stored for two years, but it is not reliable. The best product is the product of "Yongsheng" rice noodle factory. Every time I return to Hong Kong from Taiwan, I always bring local food home. What I bought that day, I ate it that night, the most enjoyable thing is like the duck tongue of "Old Tianlu", every other day Although a big one is fresh, it doesn't feel so delicious anymore. It is also a pleasure to eat the tribute balls bought at the Shilin vegetable market with Hsinchu rice noodles after they are boiled.Hong Kong still doesn't know how to eat real tribute balls. They thought they were just tribute balls with mushrooms added, but in fact, these are the most unpalatable.The tribute balls are made of 100% pork. The kung fu is full of elasticity, and it will bounce back to the table after falling on the ground. This is the highest level. Steamed liver is the most delicious, and Taiwanese eat offal to a godlike level.Use a syringe to inject soy sauce into the raw pork liver, steam it, and slice it after cooling to serve. It is fragrant, sweet and powdery. It is the most brilliant cooking technique of pork liver. ／＼After winter, the small rolls are the fattest and full of ointment.There are two kinds of size. The so-called small rolls are small squids, the kind we use to make buckets. The big ones are pickled with salt, steamed, and cut into slices. Served on the table, the ointment in the body is the sperm of the squid. It is translucent and very sweet. Just eat it frozen, it is not fishy at all, and you don’t need any sauce. As for the small rolls, they are as big as a 9mm mannan bullet, and they are also pickled with salt, but the salt content is more than that of the small rolls. It is good to eat raw, but it is best to fry them with oil and garlic Exploding, the irresistible aroma has been released when frying, one bite at a time, the inside is full of paste, almost swallowing the cartilage in the squid body, it is not an exaggeration at all. Vegetables are indispensable, and what better than the dishes that represent Taiwan? The dishes are actually called by Hong Kong immigrants. The word in Hokkien means duck.Vegetables are produced all over the world, but only Taiwan's is the most fragrant. Stir-fried with minced garlic, you will never get tired of eating it.Eat Lin Wu for dessert.This kind of fruit is also abundant in Nanyang, but the variety is definitely not as delicious as the one improved in Taiwan. The best one is called black pearl, which is very expensive, ten or twenty Hong Kong dollars a piece.The more expensive fifty Hong Kong dollars are no longer called pearls, but black diamonds. Xiaocang took a boat to Busan and traveled all the way to Seoul. He fell in love with this place and went there more than a hundred times. Most of the friends he made were from Shandong, and they taught me how to eat pancakes. Open a folded flatbread, sandwich a long onion in the middle, dip it in noodle sauce, and eat it with big mouthfuls, which is extremely enjoyable, fully showing the heroism of the Shandong people. This kind of cake is rare in restaurants in Shandong, and there are still some special orders, but the standard of noodle sauce provided is not high, if it is too salty or too sweet, it will be over. Wontons and steamed dumplings have very thick skins. When everyone was poor, we had to eat enough wontons first.In the south, it becomes wonton, with thin skin and fine filling.As for the steamed dumplings, they also have thick skins, compared to those made by Lao Cai in Zhengzhou, Henan, like quilts and bed sheets. We got up early in the morning and went out to look for food. We chose several famous snack shops, such as "Xin Lian Xin Tofu" brain. , "Donghexiang Pork Rib Casserole Rice", "Xiaohonglou Beef Soup Dumplings", "Dachuan Beef Single Cake", "Tiantangwan Fried Dumplings", "Jiaqingzhai Seafood Zongzi", "Grandma Bridge Crock Pot Porridge "Wait. Finally went to "Qingdao Dabao."The first time I heard Shandong Dabao was described by Brother Hu Jinquan himself. He opened his hands and compared it, it was as big as a foot.We didn't believe it, but he asked Master Le Gonglou to make it for us, and it was amazing. When I came to Shandong, my friends also said that there was a big bag on the board.I]-- have been pursuing the most authentic food. After going to this famous store, I found that all the big buns are not big, only about twice the size of our char siew buns. The stuffing is still well done, but it cannot be described as thin. The skin is thin when the bun is big; the skin is thick when it is small.The price is cheap, and I ordered all the buns with different fillings in the store to try.Some leftovers, waste is waste, God forgive. Accompanying us this time are Wei Zuodui, director of Shandong Tourism Co., Ltd. in Hong Kong, and his assistant Ye Wen. ,~Sister is very capable, she said with a smile all day long: OK, OK, light, Well, yes, yes, never heard her say...a "no". Brother Hua Ju is from Weifang, and he knew that I like to eat old-fashioned food. Qingyou brought a can of Weifang crab sauce for me to try. Smash the flower crabs into pieces, marinate them with salt, add a lot of scallions and garlic, the aroma of Wen Chengyi is exciting and impressive. For the sake of friends, it is the true nature of Shandong people to stick a knife in both sides.Brother Hua Ke... so angry that he wanted to seduce him, his friend immediately gave him the sword.If you want peaches, there are Taoguang, watermelons and watermelons, and the most famous radish in Weifang! It is green, a bit like the kind we use to cook green and red radish!, soup, but it is thick, radish!, It is full of flavor, and the skin is marinated, which is even more delicious. Another purpose of going to Weifang is to eat the famous "Chaotian Pot".A round table with a A hole, put it into...a huge pot.There was a gap in the round table, so the master squeezed in and took out food from the pot to distribute to the guests. The content is everything, mainly pigs.The meat of different parts is complete.In addition, there are pig large intestines, pig stomachs, pig mouth strips (that is, pig feet), pig hearts, and pig lungs. The soup in the Chaotianguo remains unchanged, add meat to cook, add more after eating, and never turn off the fire.I heard that during the Cultural Revolution, in order to preserve this century-old soup, it was put into urns and buried in the ground. After the disaster passed, it was dug out and boiled.Of course, this is just a legend. Today's pots are cleaned every time after eating, so please rest assured.It used to be eaten by coachmen driving horses.When everyone eats together in winter, the atmosphere must be very good.When I was young, I often heard my father say that there was such a big pot, and I laughed at him for lying. Now I see it, I laugh at my ignorance. The donkey feast is also well done in Weifang.The cooking of the whole donkey is amazing.Donkey meat is very fragrant. For those who have never eaten it, it is difficult for me to explain the fragrance to you. The donkey is stupid and stubborn, and when you eat its meat, you will know how delicious it is when you think of your incompetent boss. In the past, people only "eat in the state", and later, it became "eat in Hong Kong". In the past noon, Hong Kong's economy has been in a downturn, and all restaurants in Hong Kong have been destroyed. Ming's scam world moved \, ya; some stores still sell it for thirty yuan.Wan Chi, do you dare to eat? With the rise of door-to-door meals, friends have no money in their pockets.Tea restaurant Tiao Yan / Ren Jia, la It's asking about the truth, and it's just a penny, so it's where it is. I often go to Guangzhou recently, because I can still find... some: food that surprises me.No:/, door-to-door restaurants, the layout of the service, so that Hong Kong people screamed yesterday. In the heart of Hong Kong, 10,000 feet is already unbelievable, and in Guangzhou, it is also 1/4, with a bucket foot of 8 meters, and 10/2 feet and 5 buckets. Street snacks in Liangguan, such as "Yinsi Rice Roll", "Nanxin Shuangpi Nai", "Ouchengsi Wonton", Duji"~Ding's air-conditioned restaurant Cui is no longer a food stall. "Guangzhou Restaurant", "Lianxianglou", "Panxi" and "Datong", etc., are no longer state-owned, each with luxurious decoration, grabbing customers.The dishes are also beautiful. For example, "Northeast People" has also opened many branches, and the Ganglao cuisine, which was unacceptable in the past, is now very popular in Guangzhou.There are also many Japanese ramen restaurants. "Hyatt Restaurant" and "Xin Lizhiwan Restaurant. Take the route of abalone, winged belly and bird's nest. There are dozens of halls and rooms. The guests are crowded and the consumption power is extremely strong. Other Teochew, Shanghai and Szechuan dishes are popular and there is what you can eat.But has it really returned to "eating in Guangzhou"? Not necessarily. Guangzhou still lacks first-class western restaurants such as "", "," and "," and Thai food can't be as good as Kowloon City/, which is wonderful.Italian food "", ", etc. can not be found. Let alone high-end Japanese dishes. After all, Hong Kong is still an open international city, which Guangzhou cannot keep up with. If you go to the Pearl River Delta and see a restaurant decorated with big red flower cloth, you will know that it is a chain store of Northeast cuisine called "Northeast People". There are seven restaurants in total. As soon as you walk in, more than a dozen young girls from Northeast China in scarlet cloth cheongsams will shout together: "Sit inside!" When they come out, they will shout again: "Go away, brother!" Like the ones in Tokyo. Sitaiwu's greeting is not as rigid as the Taiwanese milk tea-style thank you for coming, but it is very cordial. Northeast girls have round faces, flushed cheeks, and braids with red flowers on them. Everyone is different, and there are beard-like hairs on their lips, simple and cute. A bottle of beer was ordered, and they grabbed the cap with their left hands.Use a chopstick in your right hand and lift it vigorously.With the sound of a wave, the beer is full of foam and has a great atmosphere.On the day I went there, I happened to encounter a stubborn lid. The little girl couldn’t open it no matter how hard she tried. I said to use a bottle opener, but she replied that there was no one in the store. .Northeast people.They sell "our family dishes". There are golden foods, which are actually coarse grains, including corn, small Rice and millet.Green food has pollution-free alpine wild vegetables; black food has mountain mushrooms, fungus and rye.All are nutritious traditional foods. Dumplings are their specialty, and they are all hand-chopped and rolled.Now called Fresh Bao, there are 22 kinds of vegetarian dumplings in total, and there are countless varieties with meat.Of course, the typical sauerkraut pot, mutton skewers and braised pork, etc., are all authentic and delicious. The original creators are ... a group of job seekers who have wandered around the world. Their strong hometown feelings made them dream of a restaurant in their hometown.In the early 1990s they opened a small shop with only eight tables, with cheap prices and warm calls.Get the current impressive results. Originally, it was the most difficult thing to open a restaurant from other provinces in Guangzhou. It is not easy for Guangzhou people to accept things other than Cantonese cuisine, but this family has a firm foothold in Guangzhou. It can be seen that the word "Sui" can break any boundaries. Next time Go to Guangzhou, give it a try, and guarantee that you will leave an unforgettable impression. full marks Hou You is our loyal group member. He has participated several times, especially for the group that eats peaches in summer. He has been there twice for the same itinerary. Tang Liangchuan from this website also came to Ding, chatting, and asked me: "Have you eaten rice cakes?".What is a country rice cake? Why don’t you ask? He used two to mark the factory: "For such a person, there are ten weights in total." Wow, great! "It's delicious when you burn it with wood," he explained. I can't wait to try it right away, and I made an appointment to go there on the ... weekend after returning to Hong Kong.The location is in the middle of the foot: Sanxiang.There are several ways to go to Zhanzhongshan. Take the Hong Kong-Shenzhen train directly, then go to Shenzhen and Shenzhen, and arrive in more than an hour. The waterway can take a boat at China Hong Kong City in Tsim Sha Tsui or Hong Kong-Macau Ferry Terminal in Hong Kong. Otherwise, go to Macau first. One day, Ran entered Gongbeilie Zhongshan from there. I heard that there is a five-star Bay Hotel in Zhuhai, which is very good, and I want to give it a try.I am from Hong Kong City to Zhuhai, put down luggage.Inspect the circle, it's really good, even the bathroom has an automatic flushing board, so you can live there. The only troublesome thing is that the reception asked us to take out our passports to photocopy, saying that it is a national regulation.It doesn't matter if one or two of us live together. If we live in a group, everyone's passports must be photocopied one by one, waiting for death.Moreover, among the group members, there are some who want to keep their privacy and don’t want to keep records. We know that the group can be exempted from these procedures, but the lobby manager doesn’t understand. After talking to her for a long time, I still don’t understand.Forget it, it's a waste of time. If you bring a group, you have to ask the boss to arrange it.The car sent by Mr. Hou is already at the entrance of the hotel. It only takes 40 minutes from Zhuhai to Sanxiang to arrive at the restaurant "Shuixiangju" invested by Mr. Hou. Walking in the door, I saw the country rice cakes on the table. Good guy, the shape is already intimidating, half the size of a wax gourd, wrapped with banana leaves, and put into a rattan basket. The first impression is full marks . Mr. Hou in Macau told me that I took him to eat so many things, and he hoped to greet me once. Zhongshan in the mainland is the one he is most familiar with, and there is a good restaurant.Of course there is interest, that is no time, drop everything this time, follow him From Guangzhou to Zhongshan, 120 kilometers, more than an hour's drive, we came to "Shuixiangju". The environment is elegant and simple, like an ancient costume movie. It’s just country food, it’s just country food!” Mr. Hou has always said so modestly, and Liu Zhaozhong, the chef and manager, who is known as Master Zhong, also said the same. I replied: "Abalone wing belly is optional, I want to eat these country dishes." Sure enough, I was not disappointed. All the dishes were wonderful, and it was the most satisfying meal I had recently. The old chicken soup with radish and steak is honest and not fancy at all.One old chicken, boiled for six or seven hours, using coal, without cutting corners.Radish! The taste is complicated. After asking, it turned out that in addition to white radish, green radish and carrot were added. The three treasures of the water town.It is a meatloaf made with shredded lotus root, mashed sweet potato and shredded pumpkin. The former is added with shrimp and meat in the middle, while the latter is made with ham as a vegetable. None of them taste the same. It is a treasure.The first soup, the next soup, the sweet potato clam and mustard green stew before the dessert is basic and delicious, and the special feature is that the clam is used to enhance the flavor.I studied in secret, and I can perform it when I return to Hong Kong. I was so full that Mr. Hou asked me to try the famous Sanxiang Seto Noodles.I refuse to die, the powder is always so hard, slippery and hard to bite.Under Mr. Hou’s insistence, I finally ate Yayi, which completely changed my view of this kind of food. It turned out that the delicious rice noodles definitely did not have the above-mentioned problems, and it was more delicious than rice noodles.I really don't know if I don't try. It is also worth mentioning that the mooncakes of "Shuixiangju. do what he wants Master Zhong, the owner of "Shuixiangju", greeted him with a smile on his face. Master Zhong's original surname was Liu, but everyone always called him that, and he didn't mind. Master Zhong hasn't cooked in person for a long time. He said that he must make the Laohuo soup and some ancient delicacies by himself. I couldn't wait and shouted to eat rice cakes first. It turned out that the rice cakes had been sold out long before Chinese New Year.Mr. Hou heard that I wanted to try it, so he asked them to be loyal masters and lead his subordinates, and Leuye steamed a few tripods for us. For fresh rice cakes, you can just cut them out and eat them. Master Zhong also serves fried rice cakes with eggs.When you eat imported food, the first feeling is that it is very elastic, but not toothless.Second, the sweetness is just right, and there is no new sugar-reducing gimmick. The rice cake is sweet. If you are afraid of sugar, it is better to eat carrot cake.Third, the taste of sucrose is extremely fragrant, which is really delicious in the world. I have never been very interested in sweet things, and I also ate five large slices.The rice cakes I have tried in the past are not very impressive. Compared with the ones made by Master Zhong, they are completely different, which is also the reason for eating a few more pieces.The store also makes carrot cake and taro cake, which are also super standard. "Nowadays, how can people eat such a big piece of rice cake?" Some people asked. Shuixiangjutan imitates the gift-giving rice cakes in small boxes. I have a different opinion. I think that rice cakes should not only taste good but also have momentum. Bigger ones are better. "How long will it last?" I asked. Master Zhong replied: "The ones that are not stored in the freezer can be stored for more than two weeks. When they are fresh, they don't need to be fried. They can be torn by hand." I remember that I also tore it by hand when I was young. "Where's the refrigerator?" I asked. "Two or three months is fine." Master Zhong said. Some people buy rice cakes, but they don't necessarily eat them. They display them in the hall, and when they get moldy, they will get better and better.Seeing the big rice cake on Brother Xu Shenghe's desk, it was moldy like a piece of cheese, and like an abstract painting.The natural color of mold cannot be drawn by ordinary painters. "What's for dinner tonight?" I asked. I have tried the gestures of Master Zhong in "Shuixiangju", and I am very satisfied. I don't know what happened tonight. Lai style. Not fancy.He said, how about some real old dishes? I have prepared old soup. " As soon as I heard the three words "buhuaqiao", I already liked it from the bottom of my heart.Recently, all I eat are some deformed dishes, and I have become very low-handed, and I am afraid of eating The big soup pot that was taken out was three feet high and half a foot in diameter.The soup dregs have been picked up, leaving one-fifth of the soup. Looking at the material, there are dace, sage, red bean, belly meat, etc., all of which are very ordinary things. ...Drink it in, it is rich and sweet, and it is a model of the highest state of Eastern people's soup. "Thank you for your hard work! After I wiped my mouth and thanked Master Zhong, the kid next to me looked puzzled. Cooking things, mother will also. " said the child. "Listen to Master Zhong's instructions on how to cook." I said. Master Zhong just smiled and said nothing, only after the children asked him repeatedly. "First fry the dace, put it in boiling water, add pork and other ingredients, and cook it for eight hours." "Wow." The child said, "then the whole fish must be rotten, why is there still a tail on the soup dregs?" It is already rotten.This one was added in the last hour.Master Zhong explained. "Eight hours." The child asked, "Will the soup dry out? Do you add water in the middle?" "Once you add water, the soup is undrinkable," Master Zhong said. "As soon as the soup boils, you need to use a slow fire. Remove some wood from the stove. Before adding another fish, you have to boil it again, so add wood. In short Watch it every minute." "More than looking at my wife." I joked. The art of making soup in Guangdong is not something outsiders can understand.Being a Cantonese is already a blessing "Shuixiangzhi" is:, mountainous,: township, two: the township has a lot of plotters, go to Yazhong! People (fairies and Cuiheng villages, etc., rarely come to the three townships. Muyou, "Yageer Hotel Zulu\Xiaozhao Shanggan, Xiao: Called Shaochuan and Lu: Zong. This group also has a golf course with picturesque scenery. It is the most beautiful environment I have ever seen. Ask, no wonder my friends say Zuquantong is the best, but unfortunately we don't fight, otherwise we will join the club. On the hillside near the golf course, there is a tea house called "Lvhuayuan". The forest is full of lychee trees. When the fruits are ripe in the small restaurant beside the tree, you can enjoy tea, have a meal, and finally pick lychees to eat. There is another pink Gothic-style building beside the road to Sanxiang, and you can walk in with a good impression. The Buddha statues and pottery displayed inside can be recognized as the work of brother Zeng's porridge in Yugong Kiln, as expected.The owner has a deep friendship with them, and there is a training hall in the back, where there are various Buddha statues in people's sad mantras. Here, the owner of the agency started selling medicinal materials. Yan and Pang Er Pang tail stew soup. It is not far from the Yangtze River Reservoir. This Yangtze River is not the same as the Yangtze River. It is a place name in Zhongshan. There is a big hotel in the reservoir. The restaurant of the hotel makes excellent pigeons. We brought a group last time. More than a hundred pigeons returned to Hong Kong. This time I made a special trip to try the dishes again, because Mr. Hou said that although the pigeons made by this family are good, they are not as good as their suckling pigs.It is said that the pig is not big.Greed made them burn two.When it was served on the table, it was light-skinned and not soaked in sesame seeds, which is rare in Hong Kong.I originally wanted to order one for each person, but I knew that I would not be able to finish it. There are other dishes. Next time I bring a group, two for one table is enough. Decide on the itinerary, start from Hong Kong early in the morning, and take a bus to Shenzhen. Our tourist bus is from Xinggang Company, and the driver is Hong Kong, so you can rest assured.In Jinguan City, Shenzhen, eat a luxurious Sichuan cuisine, and go to "Shuixiangju" in the evening after arriving. The next day, have authentic dim sum for breakfast, and then go to the Yangtze River Reservoir to eat suckling pig at noon and then return to Hong Kong. Each meal has 15 dishes , Mr. Bao is full of satisfaction. Our family ate from Chaoshan to Guangzhou until we couldn't stand it. The best way to eliminate stagnation is yellow skin.It is a fruit that appears at the same time as the lychee, but the light It is completely covered by lychees, because most of the wampes are very sour. The yellow skin lives up to its name, with yellow skin, the size of a thumbnail, and fine hairs on the skin.It grows in bunches, pick one and peel it off, and you will immediately smell a scent that is completely different from other fruits.The flesh is white, surrounded by a green core. Generally, when the yellow skin is put into the mouth, when one bites, the first reaction is that it is terribly sour. If the core is accidentally gnawed, it will be even more bitter like coptis.Of course, this is a description, I have never eaten real Coptis chinensis. In June, July and August of the Gregorian calendar, you can see yellow skins in vegetable markets or fruit stalls, and some of them grow bigger than before. Chaozhou people have a special liking for yellow skin. In addition to eating it raw, they also pickle it into a black snack. It is salty and sour. If it is not good for the body and quenches thirst, I would not touch it. The last time I went to Dongguan to pick lychees, I saw a few trees planted in the orchard, which were full of trees, one red and one yellow, making a perfect contrast with the lychees. The owner of the orchard said: "Our yellow skin is very sweet, try it." I don’t know how many times I have heard this sentence. I was told to try it, and I will definitely try it. I was disappointed the same number of times.My conclusion is: wampee is born sour, it is impossible to be sweet. It wasn't until this trip that we ate something produced in Yunan County, Guangdong that we completely changed our mind.And, most wonderfully, non-nuclear. It is twice the size of ordinary yellow skin, with a lot of meat, fresh color, full of fragrance, whether it is skin or meat, it is sweet.It is really a miracle. No wonder the "Yujiang brand" produced by Yunan was recognized as a high-quality rare fruit by the Fruit Research Institute of the Guangdong Academy of Agricultural Sciences in 1964, and has won numerous awards since then. If lychee and longan also become seedless in the future, it will lose interest.The yellow skin has no seeds, which is definitely a good thing.The family members said to take the fruit back to plant, I laughed and said: "Graft it! How about seedless?". I just went to Zhengzhou for a walk.When some friends asked me, I replied: "I want to go to the Central Plains." "Central Plains?" My friend was curious, "Is there another place called Central Plains? Is it a place that people in the world must fight for?" I pretended to be mysterious and nodded.In fact, Henan Province is located under the Yellow River and is the central part of the mainland, so it is called "Central Plains", also known as "Zhongzhou", for short.Henan". Zhengzhou is the provincial capital of Henan, and it couldn't be more successful. People in Henan seem to have a soft spot for the word "中", and often use "中". and "不中".Indicates "can" and "no".Before going to Henan, learn this sentence, the local people are very kind to you. There are direct flights to Zhengzhou from Hong Kong, but the frequency is less.There are three flights a day at Shenzhen Airport, so starting from there, the entire flight time is two hours. The airport is 15 to 20 minutes away from the city center.Nowadays, the airports in all developed cities are moving farther and farther away, and the counties need to be more than factories. 三月天去郑州，之前看天气报告，说是三至十度，带了大堆寒衣。想不到热得很，全没用上。 "你把阳光带来，今天是这几年来最好的天气。"当地朋友捧场地说。整个天给一层浓烟罩着，已算是最好的吗?不过大陆的每个城市都是那么受污染，郑州也不例外。 街道两旁长着法国梧桐，现在还是光秃秃地，建筑物也有高楼大厦，但与一般的平房很不相称，从交通工具，人民衣着看来，这城市只能发挥怀旧感的作用。 下榻的。算是全市最好的了，此法国集团全球有数千家酒店，皆为二至三流。郑州这间全新，房间很干净舒服。 公事即刻办完，友人间要不要去玩玩?洛阳和开封都离开郑州只是一个多小时车程，少林寺也近，要看黄河，二十分钟即有。 我出门已有一段日子，赶着回香港吃云吞面，但是来这里之前已做好调查，有三家老字号餐厅，非试不可，本来可以去洛阳看牡丹，但季节未到。洛阳还有所谓的"水席"，上菜程序有如行云流水，也想试试。 "水席我们郑州也有。"友人说。 即刻光顾，原来水席起源于洛阳盆地，雨量很少且气候干燥，因此民间膳食多用汤水，每一道菜都是汤。而水席的汤，以酸辣为主，也有乳白色不辣的，称之为奶汤 印象最深刻，也是最著名的是"洛阳燕菜"，汤进口酸酸辣辣，捞起的是半透明的东西，细嚼之下，感觉很像燕窝，原来是用萝卜切成幼细得再也不能幼细的丝，刀功不得了，鲜嫩爽口。当年献给宫里吃，皇帝也大赞，赐名"假燕菜。吃洛阳水席，单单这道菜已值回票值。 另一种叫"焦炸丸子。的，汤先上，再把刚刚炸好的小若樱桃的丸子一二三倒人汤中，嗞嗞作响，一流。 吃完水席，请酒店大厨做一席典型的河南菜一试，觉得比起江南菜，中原烹调逊色得多。他们的活鱼活吃是把鱼炸了还活着开口，太过残忍，我不肯叫来吃。这道菜早应禁止。至于他们的"鲤鱼焙面"，把鱼铺上粉炸了，淋上酸辣汁，没什么特别，与众不同的是将面拉成细如发丝的龙须面，炸成金黄盖在鱼上。细面给汁一浸，变成一团糊，也没吃头。友人又说从前用的是黄河鲤鱼，味尚好，但现在已经人工饲养，不堪人口也。我想要是把那龙须面拿来做汤面，或炸或捞，也应该好吃。大厨点头，但做出来的比云吞面的面条还要粗，原来龙须面除了炸不能试做其他。还是去最著名的那三家老店吧! "葛记坛子肉焖饼"从店名看来，你会有什么印象?大概是和我一样，认为有一个小坛子，里面煨着红烧肉，再和圆如馒头的饼一齐吃吧?上桌一看，完全不是那一回儿事，像一碟干炒牛河! 原来所谓的焖饼是把面压平，切成一条条很粗的东西。所谓的坛子肉是在厨房中用一个大坛子煨了小方块的猪肉，再取出来淋在饼上罢了，根 本看不到坛，大失所望。 天下第一面的"台记烩面馆"熬了羊肉汤，淋在很粗很粗很粗的扁平面上，像吃饼多过面，汤也不够鲜。 临走的早上，到"京都老蔡记。去吃馄饨，本来要到中午才开，勉强了主人蔡和顺先生一早为我们做。上桌一看，乖乖，才知道什么是馄饨，什么叫饺子 大蒸笼上面铺着长条的针松，叫马尾松，事先已用高汤炮制，再上油。马尾松的上面才是饺子，皮薄得像我们的云吞，折了十二个折，也叫叶子折，里面的馅充满汤，久放不破，躺在松叶上，扁扁平平，用筷子去挟，不必担心汤流出来。送进：3。啊!那阵味道错综复杂，又加上松叶的香，的确是我这一生六十年尝所未尝的最佳饺子。任何人做的，和他们一比，都要走开一边。古人逐鹿中原，我没有打战的欲望，但是为了这笼饺子，争个你死我活，也是值得! 郑州市有多家"老蔡记"，要记清冠有"京都"二字这一间。