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Chapter 5 Cai Lan talks about eating-5

Cai Lan talks about eating 蔡澜 15689Words 2018-03-18
There are three major delicacies in Japan, that is Yundan (sea urchin), Kuizi (ovary of sea cucumber) and Tangmo (mullet roe). As the name suggests, mullet roe is mullet, also known as herring and bonito fish~.In English, it is divided into the sperm of male fish, and the sperm of female is harder, so it is called. Heroes see the same thing.Turks at the border of East and West also like to eat mullet roe.Spread to Europe, mullet roe is the most advanced food for French and Italian gourmets.Only sold in reputable stores.A small piece of 30 Euros is more than 200 Hong Kong dollars. In fact, it is more expensive to sell in Japan. The mullet is trawled by them, and the species is almost extinct. Only people who know the way can buy it, and you have to be careful when buying it. The company that invented fake crabs has released mixed mullet roe. The cheap silver snow roe or pollack roe is very decent, and it is easy to be fooled.But in Japan, you get what you pay for, and you should never touch mullet roe that is too cheap.

Now you can see mullet roe everywhere in Taiwan.Yibingbing resembles a pair of mini Japanese figure-of-slip slippers.From In the past, mullet roe was abundant, but later it was trawled to extinction. Today's mullet roe is imported from Mexico and other South American places, and its taste has become inferior. The processing method of mullet roe is to wipe it clean with Japanese sake and roast it on the fire. The outer layer is slightly burnt, and the inside is still very soft and the most delicious. The reason why the Japanese call it Tang Mo is because the shape of mullet roe is like the ink passed down in China, and it is usually eaten horizontally or in thin slices. This is the way of eating at home, and you can cut more slices.

Then cut raw radishes of the same size, one piece of mullet roe and one piece of radish, just eat it like that, it will be very fragrant. We used to go to restaurants in Taipei, and the way of eating was different. It was not the way of slices at home, but like Chaozhou! The sliced ​​mullet roe is as big as the palm of your hand, and it tastes delicious. Luxurious and satisfying, in restaurants, compared to other consumption, it is considered cheap. When I first came into contact with mullet roe, I didn’t know what it was. My Taiwanese girlfriend brought it as a gift—it had a fishy smell, so I just put it aside and didn’t touch it. After a while, a layer of white mold appeared on the outside. Throwing it in the trash can is a waste of money.In fact, that layer of mold can be wiped off with brandy and other spirits, and it can still be eaten.

When there is no grilling tool, most people will use a flat-bottomed wok, add some oil, and fry it. But when it is overcooked, the middle of the mullet roe will turn yellow, which is not delicious.It was hard to bite, and the flavor was lost. There is another classmate who is even more stupid. He received a gift of mullet roe and used it to make soup, and it was over. In fact, Hong Kong people also eat mullet roe, which can still be seen at the dry goods stalls in Lau Fau Shan.However, Hong Kong mullet roe is very small, finger-like, and very dry. I bought it and took it to the restaurant, and asked the master to prepare it. He grabbed a handful and fried it in a wok. There was a burst of fragrance when it was served on the table, but compared with the big mullet roe from Japan and Taiwan, there is a world of difference. Of course, the price is also high. Far from it.

The mullet roe I saw while traveling in Turkey was sealed with beeswax, and it was much bigger than the ones sold in Taiwan.At first, I was not sure if it was true, so I bought it immediately, took it to the restaurant and cut it with a knife, and the aroma was tangy.Right on the road, right on the road.tell myself. Ask the locals how to eat it? Do you want to bake it or fry it? They say that the mullet roe has been dried and can be eaten as it is without processing. Cut a slice and put it in. It really tastes like what I ate in Taiwan restaurants back then. The soft and oily fish roe in the middle is a bit sticky to the teeth, but the fragrance lasts for a long time. It is really the best in the world.The first person who discovered eating mullet roe was very great.How do you think? He should be given a certificate.

Delicious things must be taken out and shared with everyone.I cut a few slices and gave them to the staff of the photography team. After they ate it, they were full of praise and said that they must inform them to buy it next time they pass by. I went to a seafood restaurant during a break. There were many slices of mullet roe on the counter at the door. When it was on the table, everyone picked it up and put it in the mouth. The taste was a bit strange, and they spit out the dregs again: "Why is it different from the one bought by Mr. Cai?" At first glance, it turned out that the cook just cut the mullet roe into pieces, and there was no wax on the outside.

Get rid of it, everyone even eats and imports wax. I don’t know where else in the world people eat mullet roe. From my experience, I have eaten mullet roe from Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Australia, and Turkey. The highest grade is also the best, and the eggs are the softest. Cooked, it is Greek mullet roe.First class. Sitting in a teahouse by the sea in a small Greek island, having a plate of mullet roe and a cup of local local cannonballs, I am not envious. This kind of wine, in the same strain as Turkey, is mainly made of anise, so when drinking mullet roe in Greece, I think of Turkey. When I went to Paris, I saw strips of chocolate-sized things in the most high-end ingredients store. I thought they were mullet roe sealed with beeswax. After asking, I found out that they were imported from Greece.

"What's the best wine to drink with?" asked the clerk. He replied, "Of course, otherwise, it's fine." It turns out that these two brands of wine use anise as raw material.Is transparent, but, and are brown, like brandy.However, these wines have a consistent characteristic. Once mixed with water, they turn milky white, which is the same as that of disinfectant. Those who are not used to it find the taste as difficult to import as disinfectant. But, just so strange, it works perfectly with mullet roe, try it next time.Thank God for giving us mullet roe. I have always respected a century-old store. It is said that it is easy to start a business but difficult to maintain it. It is also said that a bad ship can survive for so long. It always makes sense.

One of them is "Kyoto Lao Cai Ji". Cai Shijun cooked for the emperor in the Beijing Imperial Palace. After the Revolution of 1911, he lived on the streets. He opened a small shop in Qianmen, Beijing, selling steamed dumplings and wontons, and his business was booming. The political situation was unstable. Cai Shijun took his family to seek refuge with his mother-in-law in Kaifeng, Henan, and later fled to Zhengzhou, where he founded "Kyoto Lao Cai Ji". The culinary skills were passed on to his eldest son, Cai Yongquan, and the name of the restaurant became more and more famous.Both Zhu De and Mei Lanfang were guests. Mao Zedong went to the store to eat steamed dumplings when he was in Zhengzhou for a meeting, and shouted: "It tastes good, very good."

This sentence became a poisonous curse during the Cultural Revolution, and the sufferings of Cai Yongquan were not discussed, but Cai Yuanshun, who passed on the skills to the third generation, has been in business to this day. When I went to Zhengzhou, of course I had to go to "Lao Cai Ji", but because of other work, I only had to go to the "Lao Cai Ji" before I left. Only free in the morning.The store only opened at eleven o'clock, and there was no time to rush to the airport. Fortunately, local friend Lao Jin patted his chest: "One word." Northerners have this kind of arrogance, and they will die if they say it is done. Sure enough, when he touched the shop, Cai Yuanshun had already prepared the materials.Steam a cage of dumplings.

At the entrance, it is extremely sweet and delicious. It is the best steamed dumpling I have ever eaten in my life.When I returned to Hong Kong, I wrote an article on Dongxi Zhizhi. One year later, yesterday, I received a call, and it was the voice of Cai Yuanshun, the third-generation heir of "Kyoto Lao Cai Ji", saying, "I'm here." He has never spoken much, so he handed over the phone to his friend Lao Jin.Lao Jin said: "Many customers from Hong Kong came to the store. They took your article and came to the door. Cai Yuanshun was very happy and regarded you as a bosom friend. This time I came to Hong Kong and said that I would make dumplings for you." I was overjoyed when I heard that, I just moved and haven't settled down well.Just borrow the kitchen of partner Xu Shenghe.I made an appointment to go to Kowloon City early this morning to buy materials. There must be a lot of things to buy when the master comes out. I prepared a big shopping basket and ran with him. "Where's the steamer?" I asked Cai Yuanshun, who had a round face and a slightly chubby figure. "Strips," he said. "Flour?" We went to "Xin Sanyang" to buy. The store said that the best flour was from the United States. Judging from Cai Yuanshun's expression, he knew it was not ideal, but like a calligrapher, he could write good characters with a bald pen. Cai Yuanshun received the goods accordingly. Then go to the pork stall on the second floor of the market. "Eight two?" Cai Yuanshun asked. Last time I went to his store to ask, it should be 70% lean meat and 30% fat meat. Maybe he thought that Hong Kong people are afraid of fat, so he asked this question. "Seven three." I said. Cai Yuanshun smiled, knowing that I respect him. You don’t have to chop the pork yourself, please use a meat grinder in the store to grind it out, but you need a piece of ginger and grind it with the meat. This is the secret.Why not use scallions? Because scallions are bitter. "What else?" I asked a total of three times.Cai Yuanshun also shook his head three times. It's that simple? It's that simple? It's that simple? Back in the kitchen, knead the flour and water repeatedly.This knowledge has come, and the effort it takes is something I will never be able to pay.And it's not exactly strong, it's just the right amount of rigidity and softness, so that the perfect dough can be rolled out. Now it's time for the most important stuffing.Place the ground meat in a large pot and add water while beating.It was slow for a while, and violent for a while.That hand spins faster and stronger than a mixer, clacking.Seasoning is just simple soy sauce and sesame oil. The beaten stuffing is like meat pulp with a lot of water.It's the most noticeable difference I've seen other people do.Cai Yuanshun started making dumplings.The rolled out skin is extremely thin, with a lot of stuffing wrapped in it.Because flour is not commonly used, he only discounted it by 20% or 20%. "In the book, doesn't your family insist on 12% off to 13% off?" I asked.Informality is the greatest learning, Cai Yuanshun said: "It's delicious." The masson pine was brought from Zhengzhou, Henan, and the leaves are longer and thicker than ordinary needle pine. They are simmered in soup, smeared with sesame oil, and spread on the steamer.The general cloth is not used, because the pine leaves can separate the steamer and the dumplings in a hollow space, and it is not sticky to the bottom. It is spread in a thick layer, but it is easier to steam than cloth. One piece of bread is steamed while the other is on the table. It turns out that the steaming time does not need to be too long, four minutes is enough. Take a look at the table.The skin is as thin as paper. When you pick it up with chopsticks, you can see the filling in the translucent dumpling skin, which is full of soup. No matter how you shake it, it will not break. It is fragrant but not greasy, and it is the most delicious meal recently. I am very happy and I want to share this feeling with you. "Come to Hong Kong?" I asked. Cai Yuanshun smiled again: "One word." Thinking of the frankness and seriousness of the northerners, he will definitely do what he said, but what about the old store in Zhengzhou, Henan? My friend Lao Jin Dai Cai Yuanshun explained: "Before coming to Hong Kong, I have already thought about it and left it to his sister to take care of it." It seems that everyone will be able to taste it in a short time. Drinking mineral water, I still like steamed ones. Laoshan Mineral Spring sold advertisements in Hong Kong decades ago, saying that they want to drink "salty", but "light" Yes, the memory is still fresh.Steam is the former, with a little salty taste. The last time I went to France, in a cozy restaurant in Provence, I saw the waiter bring Italian ] If the sparkling mineral water is poured for me, I know the standard of this family must be good.The French are proud and always think that their products are the best. Want to drink sparkling mineral water? They immediately took out the brand. But the steam is not enough, and the taste is not so good.If a restaurant can use better water from other countries than them regardless of face, the family is very modest, and the food must be of a standard.The child asked: "Why don't they use it? Soda is the most representative of France!" "In France, very few restaurants see it." I said, "I used to look online History, but found it to be very ambiguous, it just doesn't say who it is now. " "What?" said the child, "You said the company is not French?" I nodded. "Then it's not Italian, is it?" The child -- he didn't believe it. "It's not French, it's not Italian," I said. "They were all bought by a company called Nestle." "The Nestle that sells coffee powder?" asked the child. ...begging is the world's largest food organization, founded more than a hundred years ago Li, when breast milk was insufficient, one in five babies would die, and mothers had to go out to work and had no time to breastfeed, so milk powder was invented.What we drank when we were young was also made by Nestle, and most of the cereals and corn flakes that Americans eat for breakfast are also products of this company.In the chocolate market, , etc. are also.Even the pet market business has been done, selling cat food. " "Only for food?" "No, no," I said, "the company that everyone thinks is French cosmetics also bought them. There are so many duty-free shops around the world, and they have a share." "Wow, the Americans are amazing!" the child exclaimed. "Nestlé is not an American company." "What? Then it's from the British. I always thought it was made by the British." said the child. "Nestlé is a Swiss company." "I didn't expect that," said the child. "In today's society, it doesn't matter what belongs to who." I said, "It's all on the Internet anyway." People from any country can buy stocks.If you have money, you can buy it from any company.Like the group, they also bought ,,,,,, and other famous brands. " "Wow, what else?" the child asked. "In terms of wine, the most famous champagne &,,, Brandy, etc., are theirs. "I say. "It must be an old company?" the child asked. "No, it was only established in 1987." I said, "If you have enough vision, you can become a big group. " "Let's talk about water." The child said, "In Europe, how do you say steamed and non-sparked water?" "You know English, so you don't need to say it." I said. "Water in Latin is called as, pronounced as agua, steam is. It is not pronounced in English, but one is added after the word. There is a steam saying , no gas said.While the word is not pronounced as sin in English, it is pronounced as hard xin. " "How much water?" "Pond water, mountain spring water, and mineral water that can be drunk. For hundreds of millions of years, the water on the earth has been inexhaustible. In just a few decades, we have drunk all kinds of groundwater, like the famous spring Jinan is the capital, and the spring water has been drained.Other water is polluted, I only drink bottled water. ""What kind of bottled water do you drink?" asked the child. "Drink Laoshan or." I said, "After getting drunk, I wake up in the middle of the night and drink these mineral waters, only to realize that the water is sweet." "You travel a lot, do you dare to drink water from the tap?" "You can drink it." I said, "Many restaurants supply water from taps. However, people in mainland China should avoid drinking it. It smells like chlorine, and the fountains in Shanghai hotel lobbies are full of this chlorine smell." "What about distilled water?" "I hate drinking distilled water," I said. "It has no nutrients. Not even minerals. Use it to water flowers, and the flowers will die. In 197. There was a man called Someone published a paper about the various harms of distilled water, you might as well look it up online when you have time. " "What water is the best in the world?" "Tea drinkers know this." I said, "I have a group of friends who specialize in tea ceremony. They tried all the waters, and they think that the one from Hokkaido called Cypress water is the best." "Can you tell a person's personality from drinking water?" asked the child. I laughed: "Water should be cold, or at room temperature. Everyone who drinks boiling water should avoid it. Since you want to drink boiling water, why don't you drink tea? If you drink boiling water in a foreign country...you will be regarded as Foot monsters. Except for beautiful women, of course." Although I advise people to eat everything, I also have some things that I absolutely do not eat or drink: coffee I love tea so much.Once you fall in love with it, start researching it.There was no time for distractions, and I knew it would be a disaster if I had to drink more coffee.Like me, I also like Peking Opera, but I dare not set foot in it. 2. Pineapple Cantonese call it pineapple, and we Nanyang people call it pineapple.When I was a child, I traveled to Malaya, passing by stretches of pineapple orchards, stretching as far as the eye can see.It was harvest time, and the street was full of piles, and no one cared about it. We stopped the car and picked up a few to eat. I didn't bring a knife, so I just threw the pineapple on the stone, smashed it and ate it, as much as I wanted.Really sweet, the best part of pineapple is its heart, which is more crunchy and sweeter than sugarcane.Eat a lot.I found that my mouth and tongue were cut by pineapple fibers, and it hurt like hell. Since then, I have developed a phobia of pineapple, my scalp itches when I see it, and I accidentally eat it....Block, sweat on the head, drenched to the forehead.Retribution for stealing also. I guess I could force myself to eat more pineapple to get over my fear, but I'm too old to do such nonsense. Three, cat So how can a spiritual animal eat it? Some people say cats are aliens, and I firmly believe that. Seeing mainlanders selling so-called "dragon and tiger" shops, my heart grows hairy, and I will never go in. If drifting on a small island, there is no food, only cats are left.Well, I don't think I will eat it either, it's okay to treat myself as cat food. Except for these three things, I can basically taste everything, whether I like it or not is another matter.After trying it, there are quite a few people who don’t like it: 1. Small Chinese cabbage This kind of vegetable, which I call long green vegetables, is my favorite for airplane meals. It does not change color or taste after heating.Of course it doesn't taste bad, because it's tasteless by itself.Eating it is not as good as eating grass, at least grassy.Two, Ru Ai Also known as konjac.It is made from the starch taken from the rhizome of fennel.Nowadays, it is popular to mix fruit juice instead of jelly, but it cannot be melted like jelly, so many elderly people will die after eating it.Anise depends entirely on something else to give it its flavor.Well, why not eat those flavorful things. 3. Rice cakes and flour The reason is the same as mushroom weakness, which itself is tasteless.Shanghai fried rice cakes are good, but I only eat them with toppings.I don't like the food of this system, including noodles and Japanese udon in the north and Shanghai, because it is tasteless and not crispy. My favorite is whole egg noodles, which can be eaten with a lot of salt water.Moreover, I am so addicted to the taste of salt water. 4. Potatoes This kind of thing that northerners call potatoes is not too disgusting to it, but the impression of French fries on foreigners is destroyed, and people who don't understand food will appreciate French fries.It is not delicious to shred and stir-fry. It is eaten occasionally when it is cooked with curry chicken.Eating a piece is already saving face.5. Broccoli I don't like cauliflower either green or white.There is no reason to speak of it, and if there is an excuse, it can only be said that they have no personality and no unique taste. I eat everything else, especially high-cholesterol foods that are considered the most unhealthy, and the more I eat, the better. Some, conceptually objectionable: 1. Fasting When I see fake barbecued pork, fake roast goose, and fake squid in vegetarian restaurants, I feel sick to my stomach.These foods are very oily and contain a lot of monosodium glutamate, so it doesn't count if they don't taste good. Conceptually, what they sell is meat, which has violated the principle of vegetarianism.I hate all fake things, including fake crabmeat.Now it is even more sinful to invent fake mullet roe. 2. All cultured meat Today's prawns are tasteless. If they are raised, the yellow-footed prawns only have a shape. The real and natural ones have a delicate fragrance, and they are almost extinct.Farm chickens are not tasty, and the eggs they produce are even harder to swallow. 3. Chain fast food restaurants I can't tell the reason, if I don't like it, I don't like it, thinking it is inferior food.Once on the streets of London, there were fast food restaurants everywhere, and I couldn't even find a light lunch, but I refused to go into McDonald's when I was starving. 4. Vegetables Combining things is a good thing, but the basics of food is to make it delicious.Today's so-called new-style cuisine fades away, only seeking beauty in shape, and advocating health, but it is unhealthy after eating. If the brain is sick, it will die quickly. 5. Cauliflower There are often cold dishes in Chinese food, and vegetables are inserted into dragons or phoenixes. The thought of the chef touching and rubbing them with his hands makes me sick.If you spend so much time on decorations, you must not be sure about making food. Give me back my nature, give me back my simplicity.I like winter melon tofu, fried beans with bean sprouts! Any of the most common materials can make delicious dishes. The question is, are you willing to take the time to find them? Are you willing to take the time to make them? Being able to turn ordinary food into delicacies is an art, not inferior to painting, literature and music, and the enjoyment of life. Making the food common and ordinary is no longer called food, but feed. "Are you really good at cooking?" People still ask me that. Cooking is not a high technology, as long as you have a little curiosity, you can learn it.yes, I Know how to cook a few flavors.Will it burn well? That's the question. Once I saw that Mr. Huang Yongyu had a semi-open kitchen in his studio in Hong Kong, and the stove was very hot, so I started.Mr. Huang's family, Li Zhiying's family and Su Meilu have all tried my craft, just ask them. When being treated by others, I am most afraid that the host will hide in the kitchen and cook desperately, and we guests will not eat happily.Based on this, when I cook, I chat with everyone, drink and drink, and after a while I walk in and offer a new dish.There are three conditions for a man to cook, that is, fast, ruthless, and accurate. Of course, a lot of work needs to be done in advance.Like soup, it takes time.Use a double-layer enamel iron pot, the bottom pot holds water, and when it boils, you can put the upper pot into it. The soup made by this kind of pot is stewed, very clear, and not cloudy at all.Put scallops, radish and pork tendon in the pot.Stew for two hours and serve The soup must be clear and sweet, impossible to fail. If guests come to your house and you don’t have time to prepare it, then you can make the preserved egg and coriander soup in a hurry. Fill a small pot from an electric kettle and turn on high heat.Here, cut the grass carp into thin slices and a preserved egg.Soak the water together, put the ingredients down and roll, and finally add a lot of coriander, and it's ready.At this time, the soup is green, sweet and fragrant, and there is no need to add MSG.This soup can relieve alcohol and is most suitable for Liu Ling. Use pork as the material. If you have time, first choose a piece of pork ribs. This is counted from the first rib of the pig. The meat outside the sixth, seventh, and eighth ribs is the best. It is used by foreigners to make bacon. Part of it, braised in soy sauce, light soy sauce and a little rock sugar, is also a dish that is easy to succeed.How long will it take to burn? It depends on the firepower of your furnace. Once you smell the aroma, burn it for another half an hour. You can't go wrong. Not sure, use meat green.This piece of meat with the neck attached to the pork face is delicious if it is fried a little too old or not hot enough.I strongly advocated it decades ago, and it is very popular nowadays. People call it pork neck, which is not as good as green meat. It is delicious to steam meat green with minced garlic alone, or to stir-fry fermented soybeans.Or, diced terminal nuts, red peppers, potato rice, and green meat, added some noodle sauce, and stir-fried Ding Ding together to complete a delicious meal in no time. As for the beef, you have to go to the meat stall first to order a piece of fat beef. If you can’t find it, go to the frozen meat store to buy it. Of course, it’s not as good as fresh.This dish of stewed fat beef can be done very quickly, but there are a few secrets that must be followed: 1. The texture of the beef must be cut off, otherwise the meat will be tough; Add soy sauce and galangal powder, put in beef, don't wait for it to roll again, just pick it up immediately for later use.This Prepare the coriander and bean sprouts at the same time, put the soup into the pot when it boils again, and boil it again, the dish is cooked, then put the beef in, turn off the heat, and it can be served.The third secret is to use Wanzi soy sauce, and the others will turn sour after rolling. A few more guests come suddenly, and when the materials are not prepared enough, cans can be used to fill up the number.All canned foods have a canned taste, except for the Chinese "Meilin" brand braised braised pork and bamboo shoots in oil. Pour them into a pot and fry them together until there is a little juice left. It can be served on the table. Otherwise, put the frozen chicken in the refrigerator in the microwave, cut it into pieces, and open a can.Pour the branded melons into the pot and cook slowly with the chicken. The more they cook, the more flavorful they will become.This is one of Taiwan's famous dishes, called Guazi Chicken Pot, which I learned when I was drinking old wine in a restaurant. At this stage of eating, you are already full, and you must stimulate it.Remove the shallots, which are called dried shallots in Cantonese, and cut them into thin slices. Cook cucumbers, onions and chili peppers in the same way, add sugar and salt, and mix them with your hands. Squeeze lime juice in before serving. The ups and downs are intricate, just like life, and it will definitely change your appetite. Come down to steam fish.Boil pomfret with salty sauerkraut, spread a few shreds of fatty pork and mushrooms on top, pour some wine, and steam for a while. Take a live fish, cut open the belly, wash it, stuff the salted fish slices into it and steam it. This dish has a fancy name called "Life and Death Love". Everyone’s cooking stove and utensils are different, and the size of the fish is also different. Steaming fish is the most demanding skill. It fails the first time, fails the second time, and always succeeds the third time.Skill depends on experience and practice, and no other way.If you want to achieve something for the first time, then I advise you not to steam the fish, just boil the fish, use a pot, put Japanese sake and water, half of each, add some soy sauce and shredded ginger.Get out, put the fish in, just enough It can be eaten when it is cooked.Boiled fish is different from steamed fish, the former can be seen with eyes, as long as the fish itself is alive, steamed or boiled, it is very fresh and sweet. I have a page in a magazine named "Cooking Demonstration Site". People can cook too traditional or home-cooked dishes. They always think of something weird, but it's not easy. Sometimes I don't know what to do. Chatting with friends will give you inspiration. Mr. Jin Yong said that his father often cooks Huanxi eggs, using eggs, salted eggs and preserved eggs.Boil the eggs, cut the two sides, stuff the minced meat in the style of lion's head, sprinkle with soy sauce and Shaoxing wine, and braise it in brown sauce. When you can't think of any more, go to the vegetable market and see the fresh ingredients on the market, and you will know what to cook, but you will also choose some less popular ones to introduce.It looks like the head of kale, which is as big as a sleeve. It is much more delicious than ordinary kale when it is shredded and fried. When I walked past the beef stall, I saw the thigh bone of the cow being discarded. Ask the butcher to saw off the two ends and make it into a small coffee cup. Sprinkle salt and put it in the oven for three minutes. Take it out with a small coffee cup. Spoon to eat its marrow.The reporter who took the photo tut.It is strange to say that this practice is very common in Provence in the south of France, and it is nothing more than plagiarism. It's best to cook in a wild way: the beef bone marrow is white, then steamed with tofu and egg whites, and finally chopped white leeks are spread on top, the four kinds of things are completely white.The reporter asked the name of the dish, and I said it was called white rice.If they are made with mushrooms and hair vegetables, they can be called black dishes; yellow dishes include eggs and chrysanthemums; red dishes include tomatoes and peppers; green dishes include spinach and snow peas.If you add them up, if there are seven colors, you can concoct...a rainbow dish Just like Sin Chew Fried Rice, there is no Hainanese chicken rice in Hainan. I went to Hainan Island and couldn't find it everywhere, and I asked someone who had lived in Hainan Island for five years He doesn't know about his elders.I asked the locals in Hainan Island, and they said: "Yes!" What I ate was not the Hainanese chicken rice in my impression. So who invented Hainanese chicken rice? In retrospect, it should be attributed to the owner of the "Rui Kee" restaurant in Singapore, Mo Lurui.That being said, many Hainanese may disagree, but this article is just a throwaway. If you have more accurate information, please post it. Mo Lurui came to Singapore from Hainan Island in the 1920s and 1930s. He made a living selling chicken rice. Unlike ordinary hawkers, he carried two bamboo baskets with two strong hands: One for chicken and one for rice.Rice is served in the form of rice balls.Twisted so that it is solid, round and fat.Mo Lurui’s practice may have been done by relatives and friends in Hainan Island, so it is said that Hainan chicken It's true that the rice came out of Hainan, but it was lost in Hainan Island. Today, Hainanese chicken rice is appearing all over Southeast Asia. In the cafes or room service of international hotels, Hainanese chicken rice is included in the "Asian characteristics" menu along with wonton soup, Indonesian fried rice, and laksa.However, the so-called Hainanese chicken rice is just plain boiled chicken and white rice, which is not the same thing at all. The real Hainanese chicken rice has complicated recipes. A large amount of garlic skin and ginger are used to explode in the oil, and then a handful of green onions are rolled up, and the fragrant leaves called "balan" by the Malays are stuffed into the belly of the chicken.Salt the skin of the chicken.Bring a large pot of water to a boil, bring to a boil, add a spoonful of salt, bring to a boil again, add more, as a rule of thumb how salty it should be. Put the chicken in the soup, scald it for five minutes, pick it up, and put it in the cold water river.Boil the water again, and heat it again.Three or four times, depending on the size of the chicken, you can't stick to the stereotype. Finally hang the chicken to air dry. There is a layer of chicken oil on the water that has scalded the chicken. Put it into the pot to saute the dried shallots until fragrant. Then put the rice in and fry it. Then put the fried rice into another pot for cooking. The water for cooking the rice is also the same as before Hot chicken soup, use half of it.Reserve half, add cabbage and winter vegetables to serve as soup. There is also a saying that put raw rice into a funnel-shaped iron pot and steam it with boiling water underneath. Old friends who have seen Huang Lurui make it spread like this. The cooked rice is fat and independent, wrapped in a layer of chicken oil, giving off a brilliance. Once you see this rice, you can call it authentic.Occasionally, the slightly charred dried shallots are eaten in the rice, which is more fragrant. When eating, it is topped with soy sauce, just plain rice, without chicken, it is already delicious in the world, and you can't find it anywhere.When it comes to soy sauce, be sure to use the Hainanese special one that is thick and dark with a caramel flavor.Such as If you see that the soy sauce served in a restaurant is ordinary soy sauce or dark soy sauce, you don't have to try it, you know it must be bad. There is also a can of chili sauce and a can of minced ginger on the soy sauce rack, which are stored in glass bottles of peanut butter after eating.Different chili sauces are made in different ways, some are thick and some are thin, some are very spicy, some are slightly spicy. Among them, vinegar and minced ginger must be mixed with chicken oil. If you don’t see minced ginger in chicken oil, it is not authentic. Order your chicken with these three sauces.As soon as the chicken crows, it is half or one. It is chopped and served on the table. There are cucumber slices on the bottom of the plate. Sometimes I think cucumber is better than meat. Under what conditions is the most perfect chicken? Definitely not fully cooked.Fully cooked chicken is like eating the soles of shoes. The meat around the bones must be slightly peach-colored, and the bone marrow of the chicken is still bloody, to be considered qualified. Chickens should not be too fat or too thin. Decades ago, "Sui Kee" has learned how to control quality. There is a farm in Segamat, Malaysia, which specializes in raising free-range chickens, and they will be transported to Singapore for splitting. People who know how to eat Hainanese chicken rice enjoy the skin most. The so-called Shanba chicken is too thin.The chicken skin is not fat or delicious, and there is a layer of jelly glue between the skin and the meat, which is the best.At that time, I didn't know what cholesterol was, and there was no pollution. Eating the skin of chickens and sucking the marrow of the bones was a great joy.If you think you can’t eat enough meat, you can order a plate of chicken offal, which contains chicken hearts, chicken livers, chicken kidneys, chicken intestines, etc. It is also the best when dipped in soy sauce. When eating chicken, you have to bite out the bones to have a taste. I am very disapproving of the current boneless chicken rice. A large part of the income of "Mandarin Hotel" comes from selling its chicken rice, which is also boneless. Tourists don't understand this truth. Modern people are afraid of eating too much fat, and think that "Wenhua" is the most famous and delicious, so there is no need to argue with them.At present, there are still shops with ancient flavors, as well as Hainan Second Street. The "Yiqun" coffee shop in Singapore, and the "Seventh Floor" restaurant, other restaurants in Singapore, when you are hungry, you may still be able to eat.Hainanese chicken rice in Hong Kong is also popular, but if you follow the style, don't follow the spirit, even the sauce is not decent, let alone chicken and rice, it is shameless to show the name of Hainan chicken rice. The owner of the coin factory "Sui Kee", the owner Mo Lurui and his friend Mr. Huang Kemei, as well as the entertainment reporter Huang Gekong and his father Cai Wenxuan have a close friendship.Mr. Mok already understood the power of advertising. Mr. Comey wrote an article praising it, and Mr. Ge Kong often brought a group of singers to visit, and then published it in the magazine "Southland" edited by his father for a long time / "Advertisement, and the business is booming," Rui Kee "It has become a must-visit attraction for tourists. It is a pity that it is said that the son was killed by a motorcycle, and Mr. Mo has no intention of continuing to do it." Ruiji is currently empty on Miduo Road, but it has not been demolished yet. Passing by here often goes to pay homage. Fan. Recently, I rewatched "Yin Xin Bang" and "Tsubaki Thirty Lang" directed by Akira Kurosawa 40 years ago. Every small prop can be chewed and appreciated, and the fighting scenes are so wonderful. I lament the artistry and business. It's amazing that the professionalism can be so blended. If you want to know more about Akira Kurosawa's life, there is an article about his eating habits in this bi-weekly magazine called Kurosawa, which is worth reading. Kurosawa's food scenes, like his war scenes, are spectacular and eat everything.He claims to be not a gourmet, but a big eater.Instead of being called a gourmet, he said he might as well be called a healthy eater.When directing "Tsubaki Thirty Lang", I took a black and white photo on location, eating rice balls during the break.He made the rice balls by himself. He fried the rice balls and drizzled some soy sauce. He added a few slices of radishes and kimchi. It was his typical Chinese food. Akira Kurosawa is an advocate of eating four meals a day. After the age of 80, he also said: "Eating breakfast is the nutrition of the body; eating midnight snacks is the nutrition of the mind." His wife Kiyo and daughter Kazuko cooked for him. Akira Kurosawa asked them: "Don't damage the original taste of good ingredients." The customary breakfast has half-boiled eggs, sometimes scrambled eggs, fried eggs or fried eggs, and must use a lot of butter.Akira Kurosawa has a butter addiction, and butter is added to his cereal.Others include vegetable juice and coffee with milk.Akira Kurosawa doesn't like to eat vegetables. He said that no matter how much he bites, he can't chew them. He asked his family to use a blender to make carrots, celery, and cabbage into juice before he would drink it.The coffee powder is blended by myself, using the same amount of coffee powder from Colombia, Brazil, Peru and other places to make "Kurosawa Akira". It must be thick enough to be considered satisfactory. During filming, I didn’t eat much Chinese food. Apart from the fried rice balls I made myself, I ate boiled beef slices, roasted eggs, and spinach.The lunch box is divided into two layers, the bottom is filled with white rice, covered with wood fish chips and seaweed, that's all. Dinner is great, eat anything.Akira Kurosawa is famous for his love of beef.According to the legend, the whole team has beef to eat, and the daily cost of beef is one million yen. Akira Kurosawa likes to eat beef that is dripping with blood, and Akira Kurosawa eats more than one kilogram of beef a day.His daughter said with a smile: "However I like to eat, I don't eat it every day. Dad's favorite is the sweet Tsukudani method. I can't get tired of eating it." It's not like letting the staff eat a million meats every day, but The Akira Kurosawa team did eat well.He said: "Try to make everyone drunk and full, otherwise how can you have the energy to film?" I often invite friends and colleagues to cook at home.Don't do it, but direct your wife and daughter to do it, just like filming a movie.Curry is a famous dish of his family. The curry powder is ground by oneself, using the props used to grind Chinese medicine in "Red Beard".Fried rice balls use " .brand of salad oil, kapok 种子榨出来的,据黑泽明说是天下最好的植物油。朋友们说:"黑泽在厨房中,就像一个找到玩具的小孩。" "我做的烩牛尾最拿手,烩牛舌也不错,薯仔和红萝、不切块,整个放进锅煮,加点盐就是。我的煮法,单靠一个勇宇。"黑泽明说。 亲朋戚友回家了,黑泽明一个人看书、绘画、写作,深夜是他学习的时间,肚子饿了,当然要吃东西,所以消夜是精神的营养那句话由此得来。这时他不吵醒家人,自己进厨房炮制炒饭、炸饭团、茶泡饭等等。最爱吃的还是咸肉三文治,用犹太人的咸肉,一片又一片叠起来,加生菜和芝士,厚得像一本字典,夹着多士面吃。再喝酒,一生爱的威士忌,黑白睥,但不是普通的,喝该公司最高级的 . 作曲家池边晋一郎到他家里,黑泽明问他要喝什么?他回答说喝啤酒好了,黑泽明生气地说:"喝什么啤酒?啤酒根本不是酒!" 做黑泽明的家人也不容易,女儿有本笔记簿,记下为父亲每天做的菜,希望不重复,有时想不出,问:"爸爸今晚又要吃些什么?" 黑泽明板着脸:"一起住了那么多年,连我想吃什么都要问吗?" 电影中的每一件小道具都研究一番,家中食器当然不含糊,汤碗是人间国宝黑田辰秋做的,碟子喜欢古伊万里的古董,但是他说:"不是价钱的问题,在于你自己喜不喜欢,一个古时候的食器可以代表那个时代的精神,和那个时代的生活水准,不过要用才有价值。" 至于在餐厅吃饭,黑泽明喜欢的一家人,是京都的山瑞开了百多年的 老店"大市",用个砂锅烧红了,下山瑞和清酒煮,分量不多,一客要二万二千門,黑泽每次要吃几锅才过瘾。 我也常到这家人去,味道的确好得出奇,介绍了多位友人,都赞美不已。地址是京都上京区长者町通千本西人六番町。 另一家在横演元町的"梅林",刺身非用当天钓到的鱼做不可,烤的一大块牛肉也是绝品,门牌是黑泽写的,他葬礼那天,老板还亲自送了一尾鲼鱼到灵前拜祭。 一九九五年,黑泽跣倒,腰椎折断,但照吃得多。一九九八年去世。最后那餐吃的是金枪鱼腩、贝柱和海胆刺身、白饭,当然少不了他最喜欢的牛肉佃煮。 对于鸡蛋,还有些趣事。六十年代中,黑泽明还是不太爱吃鸡蛋,但身体检查之后,医生劝他别多吃,他忽然爱吃起来,一天几个,照吃不误。黑泽明说:"担心更是身体的毒害;想吃什么,就吃什么,长寿之道也。黑泽明活到八十八岁,由此证明他说得没错。 四月底的北京,大气最好。还设去之前看天、:预告足八至十八度,应该有点寒冷,岂知到,天高气爽,套夏天的西装已能 到处跑。叶全绿,泡桐紫花厂遍,北京是美丽的。 入住王府饭店,是香港半岛集团管理,房间又刚装修过,很舒适。王府饭店走儿步路,就到了王府井大街,已改为步行道,乍辆下准进入,两旁商店林士:。北京地广,印象总是大,大,大。 街门铜打了一块牌:广,果然昔[]这里有门"井"的,当今已是被游客做为拍照片的背景,力一不山水来。 肚子饿厂,就别新东安市场地下的"老北京一一条往"吃尔西,虽然都只是普通的菜式,但花样挺多,可以先在这里得到各种北京街道小食的概念。 光束豌:豆汁。这种老舍先生常主的饮品,连来自杭州的罗俞君也没 喝过,是豆制品发酵后熬出来的东西,可以说是斋的乳酪吧,当然有点馊,配着咸菜丝,愈喝愈美味,怪不得骆驼祥子老兄那么爱喝了。进食时用焦圈送。所谓焦圈,是把面粉弄成小圆圈炸出来,无馅亦无味,等于南方人的油炸鬼。 炒肝,是用碗盛着的,像汤水多过小炒,里面有几小片猪肠,肝是怎么找也找不到。穷人家吃的东西,找不到肝,才是正宗。 炸虾子、炸蚕、炸蚕蛹、炸蟋蟀各来一串。蚕蛹一咬,里面充满香喷喷的肠膏。听起来恐怖,吃起来美味。人家吃了那么多年没事,我们怎会吃出毛病来? 印象最深的是乾隆包,用草绳编了一个笼,像钱袋。里面有狮子头一般的肉饼,蒸熟丫摆在那里。吃时把草笼一挤,肉饼掉人碗中,或者用筷子挖来吃也可以。当年的街道小吃一定很少精肉做的东西,怪不得要以皇帝为名了。 匕京有天坛、地坛、日坛、月坛四个坛。和天坛一直线距离的地坛旁边,有家叫"坛根院食坊。的老铺。 车我们到处去吃的土生土长的司机方师傅,已摸清楚我们的脾气:非正宗的地道小食不可,就把我们载到那里去。 一进去人头涌涌,好不热闹。有个小舞台,唱着戏,又表演魔术,方师傅一坐在长凳上,大叫一声:小二侍者前来,恭恭敬敬,捧上用盖碗装着的八宝茶,听候他老人家点菜。 方师傅是这里的常客。一发板,来六个冷盘:芥菜墩、京糕梨丝、白水羊头、炸烙渣、香樁豆、拍黄瓜。 芥菜墩是用白菜烫了,再抹上大量的黄芥末泡成的。吃时可不能大意,不然会被强烈的芥末刺喉,罗俞君就给呛得猛吞啤酒。 京糕梨丝其实可当甜品吃。所谓京糕,是山楂糕切丝,鲜红颜色。White 色的梨丝垫底,上面再撤白色的糖,梨很爽口,一点渣也没有。我说梨好吃,方师傅说是大厨的切工不错。 白水羊头像羊肉冻:本身已咸,还撒了大把盐,差点把我们咸死。茶已喝完,方师傅双指夹着茶盅的盖,敲敲盅边,又大喝:小二!小二即刻替他加滚水,好不威风。罗俞君的助手朱怡瓴学着办,失败了。接着的热食是羊麻豆腐、砂锅吊子、凼水腰花、京酱肉丝等等,都是非常美味,外国绝对吃不到的。 什么叫羊麻豆腐,原来和豆腐无关,是用榨完豆汁的渣炮制而成,中间夹了辣椒干。 方师傅和我吃过,异口同声地批评:膻味不够!这一道菜一定要用羊油来炒,现在大概怕客人嫌肥,改用于植物油了。 访问都做完了,让罗俞君和她的助手朱怡瓴休息休息,晚饭只剩下徐肿桃曰知3:>汫合 来~,京,不吃一顿涮羊肉,说不过去。 上几次来试过东来顺、南来顺和北来顺等等名店,吃完说顶不顺,这次去了满福楼。 涮羊肉吃的都是冷冻后切片的。用新鲜的羊肉来打边炉,你试过没有?在满福楼就能找。一只只当天屠的羊腿挂在玻璃橱窗中,由大师傅片片,远的是内蒙锡苏纯绵羊的后腿,北京人叫为高档的那个部分,一只八十斤的羊,在店里用来涮的只有四斤八两,肉质鲜嫩无比,即使涮的时间长一点也不会老。 羊腿当然是全瘦的,我要吃的是半肥瘦,又是用老办法,叫一碟全瘦的,另外叫一碟全肥,北京人口为圈子的,两碟混在一起涮,就是半月巴瘦了。 其他还叫内脏、蔬菜等,总之在满福楼吃新鲜涮羊肉,是人生经验,下次你去,一定別错过。 临上机,还去一间叫京华食苑的餐厅。就在湖的旁边,听说下个月就可以一面乘船一面吃东西,现在还没开。"只要食物地道,在什么地方吃都不要紧。"我说。 友人间我吃过北京菜印象最好的有哪几家,我说涮羊肉是满福楼,要是地道小吃,就只有坛根院了。 "你的口福不错,地道菜,吃了坛根院和这一家京华食苑,就不必再找了。"他是旅游专家兼老饕,北京土生土长,说的话错不了。 果然,豆汁比起坛根院要浓,羊麻豆腐的羊油下得又多又香,我也认为再不,必找了。 在北京的时间很短,又是去介绍粤菜,只剩下一个早上可以去尝试当地佳肴。 北京吃早餐的地方不多,最典型和最地道的,算"护国寺小吃"丁。吃的都是回民的风味,证明回民是比较勤力的 "护国寺小吃"给华天饮食集团购买,一共开了七家,每一间都要加上"华天"这两个字,应该已是半官半私,自负盈亏的经营。 到哪一家好呢?当然是去龙头,在护国寺街,人民剧场附近的那一间去。 卖的有艾窝窝、驴打滚、豌豆黄、象鼻子糕、馓子麻花、麻团、面茶、杂碎汤等等,一共有八十种小吃。 从小看老舍先生的作品,对豆汁的印象极深,第一次到北京就到处去找,结果给我在牛街找到,现在流行怀旧,每间风味小馆都卖豆汁了。 当地人吃了几百年几千年的东西,一定有它的文化,我一向对当地小吃都要尝一下,这是对这个地方的一种尊敬。 豆汁是榨了豆浆之后的渣,再发酵后加水煮出来的东西,当然带酸,也很馊,吃不惯的人一闻就倒胃。我照喝,喝出个味道,还来得个喜欢,喝豆汁时一定要配焦圈和咸菜。 什么叫焦圈?这和麻花、开口笑等等,都是用淀粉炸出来的。从前生活困苦,有点油已是美味。从小吃的话,经济转好也会记得,长大了就一直要吃下去,看你是不是土生土长。外来的人吃不惯,就觉得不好吃。肉类很少,我叫丁一碗羊杂碎,算有点内脏吃,但汤极膻,愈膻愈好,不喜欢羊肉的朋友最好回避。又要了一碗羊肉面,只有几片薄得像纸的肉,但也觉得很满意了。 金庸先生上午睡得比较迟醒,我半夜写完稿,一早就往外溜。下榻的北京东方君悦大酒店旁边有家面馆,经过几次,发现很早就 开,临走的那个早上,决定试一试。 店叫"面点煌",是快餐式的经营,一条很长的玻璃柜中,大师傅在里面做菜,卖各种不同的食品。 大概是陕西人来北京打的天下,有个部门卖陕西小食,如麻酱铪铬、干层肉馅饼、白吉肉夹馍、炒酿皮等等。别被这些地方菜的叫法骗去,以为都是很独特的食品。大陆习匕方菜吃来吃去都是一些很粗糙的饼类东西,又大又厚又硬,吃起来当地人才感觉得饱,不像南方的那么精细和皮薄馅多。 也不单吃面,其他部分饼类、包点类、水饺类、凉菜类、粥类和砂锅类。客人可以到窗口看一阵子,再到柜台去买票,交给师傅,伙计就会帮 你送到桌上。 叫一碗炸酱面,来的竟是汤的。面条很粗,有点像刀削面,一撮肉末浮在面上。汤淡如水,拌丁肉碎才有点味道,但经这么一搅糊,又不见肉了,吃了几口面放弃,肉末沉在碗底,没机会捞起,等于吃不到。 羊肉粉丝汤比较好吃,但羊肉片很少,刀削面吃不惯,来点粉丝当面,也是医肚子的好方法。后来参考了菜单才知道,原来面条可分拉面、手工面和刀削面,配料任选,价格不变。 不够料吃,再来一碟泡菜,是用高丽菜腌制,酸酸辣辣,还算可口。又叫了一碟五香花生米,这种凉菜百食不厌,花生最好吃煮熟的,在北京去到哪里点到哪里,永远不让人失望。吃得饱饱,东西不怎样,价钱便宜得要命。 上一次来北京,试过一家叫"满福楼"的涮羊肉,羊腿是当天早上从内蒙运来,新鲜切出,和冷冻的相差甚远,非常美味,这次 又带查先生夫妇去丫,他们也吃得很满意。 走进店里,有一股刺眼的感觉,原来是燃烧酒精造成。这里一人一个锅,下面烧酒精蜡。看到每一桌都点着一枝红蜡烛,也不是为了情调,问女侍者,才知道点蜡烛的话,可以把酒精气消除,真是活到老学到老。如果在此要吃烤鸭,北京老饕都会向你说:"别去全聚德,当今有一家更好,是个体产开的,叫鸭王。" "鸭王"的总店开在朝阳区,往机场的顺道,在一个主题公园的旁边。看菜单,除了烤鸭之外,卖的有咸菜猪肚汤、卤水鹅等等,显然是潮州菜式,这个地区又叫潮阳,是否是潮州人来打的天下? 这里高朋满座,又有很多人排队等位,生意滔滔,名字响当当之故。 上海开国际观光节,我已算是半个旅游界人士,与星港公司的老板徐胜鹤兄一齐前往参加,和国内同行打打交道。 港龙还是最受欢迎的,差不多每一班都爆满。由香港飞上海,两个钟左右到达虹桥机场,是旧的老样子。新机场没用过,听说很远,从虹桥到花园酒店只要二十分钟。 抵埗时已是下午两点,不想要太多东西,不然晚饭太饱,建议吃面。附近的淮海路上有两家著名的面店:"沧浪亭,和吴越人家。选了后者。 "吴越人家"的老板就叫吴越人,九三年曾流行吃大碗面时兴起。生意兴隆,现在开了二十几家分店,听说淮海路上小巷中的这间,是第一家。店中布置得清清雅雅,墙上挂满书法和餐牌。推销最著名的两种面:醇香肉排和香菇素面,各自来一碗 上桌一看,碗大得惊人,汤绝对喝不完,面条排得直直地,真如少女的清汤挂面。很多人会以为这是机器做的,其实手打。整齐的面条,是大师傅手艺。 菜由另外的小碟盛着,与面分开。过桥吃法。若嫌隔着丫不好吃,可以把整碟配料倒进碗中,但始终不是很人味。 是有道理的,那小碟醇香肉排的做法和东坡肉一样,下了很多冰糖,要是把一碟都倒进去,会变成甜品。 素面没有什么吃头,要了另一碗蟹粉虾仁面,是全店最贵的,卖三十八块人民币。此面要是在香港天香楼吃,至少贵出十倍,但味道当然也胜出十倍。 一般来说,还是很有特色。香港照抄开那么一家,也会赚钱。 文隽曾经再三地推荐在上海的一家餐馆,叫。圆苑酒家"。 出发前打了一个电话给他要地址,文隽人在北京办事,也特地为 我通知了老板娘钱瑛,一下子词到了座位。 我们四个人,徐胜鹤兄、当地旅游界的陈经理、司机和我,叫了很多菜。钱女士忙说够了够了,我们说吃不完打包,结果打包的,只是半只蹄膀。 这家人烧的红焖蹄膀特别精彩,肥嘟嘟地上桌,一大根骨头翘在碟上,碟边看到很多粒卤蛋,钱女士笑说:"这里的菜名都不用自己取,客人会替我们安上别名,他们叫这道做猪八戒踢足球。" 之前来了些小碟菜,最突出的是糯米红枣。一颗颗的红枣之中酿着白色的糯米丸子,完全是功夫,蒸得很热上桌,要小心吃,不然糯米丸会烫伤嘴唇 椒盐玉米也同样花时间,把一粒粒的玉蜀黍拆出来,用油炸了,撒上。椒盐这种做法并非沪菜传统,我一向也很反对,但是这一道小菜的确适宜送酒。 蒜拌黄瓜海蜇很普通。下了大量的芫荽,和一般在香港吃到的又是不同。就那么改了一改,好吃得多。 见菜牌上有道叫虎皮臭豆腐的,即刻想试,原来虎皮取腐皮同音,把枝竹包了臭豆腐炸,味道不传到邻桌去,吃起来照样过瘾。 餐牌上还有...个奇妙的名字,叫"爬跳汤",想知道葫芦里卖的是什么药,上桌一看,用个砂煲煲了爬着的大闸蟹、跳着的田鸡,又加河虾和蛤蜊,当然不加味精也鲜甜。 四个人吃,埋单五百人民币,不算贵。
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