Chapter 4 Cai Lan talks about eating-4

When the time comes, I will take photos of cooking for "Cai Lam's Classroom", but this time I can't think of what to do. The inspiration comes from the vegetable market, and I cook whatever is the freshest. This is my consistent style, but not every time I can find something new.They are all used to seeing and eating, and they are materials that have been introduced before, so they are boring. Impossible to find today, right? How did you know that when I walked past the "Tao Kee Fresh Vegetables" stall in the Kowloon City market, Mrs. Tao showed me something that was oily and green like kohlrabi.

"What is it?" I was very surprised. "Head of kale," she said. This thing is as big as a Shatian pomelo, with many thin stems growing on the top, and when it grows bigger, it becomes a bunch of kale. It's so beautiful, I chose two, one for cooking and one for taking pictures.my page, except It's interesting to demonstrate cooking and introduce various rare ingredients. "How do you usually burn it?" I asked.Don't think that I came up with every dish, most of them were taught by friends in the market, and they are the real experts who come into contact with them every day.

"Cook lean meat." Mrs. Tao replied. Such a beautiful thing, it’s a pity to cook it, so I can only ask: “What else can I do?” “Sliced ​​and fried!” She said easily. My mind immediately came to mind. Cut the kale head into long strips, soak it in water, and tie a knot. The shape is much better, but the part in the knot must not be fried enough! It looks good, but it is also against the principle.Immediately turned around and ran to "Tiandi Books" on Granville Road in Tsim Sha Tsui to find a reference book on vegetables and see if there is a better idea.The girl in the bookstore has a photographic memory, and if you ask her what book to look for, she will find it right away.I bought two volumes, but found that it was still too fancy, so I used the most basic shreds to forget it.

Then get some fatty beef to fry, and it will be cooked soon, just a few times.After the photos were taken, colleagues from the magazine tried the food, and everyone said: "It's more delicious than ordinary Chinese kale. There are already four dishes, which is enough for this photography.When I was about to get the materials to make, I passed the beef stall "Yongxing" on the second floor 3. I saw beef bones. Haha, ask Ran Duoyi to chase after Guan Suipu. I asked the boss for the largest and longest bone of the whole cow, which belongs to the leg. "Only two ends." I demanded.

The boss hooked it with a pipe iron hook, and then took out a saw to saw it, but it was not what I wanted. "The bottom should be flat." I said. After a long time, he realized that he should choose another thigh bone, go to the frozen meat stall "Anhe" at 29, and ask the boss to cut it open for me with a chainsaw. A large bone, the circular joints at the front and rear ends are sawed flat, and then a knife is made at the height of two inches, and it becomes the shape of a teacup.The two ends make a total of two teacups.Originally, the section in the middle could also be used, but it was sacrificed to take pictures.

He ran to the beef stall and said to the boss: "Another big bone is enough, how much is it?" "The bone is worthless, I will give it to you." He said. "No, no." I pushed back with him for a long time, but in the end he was only willing to accept twenty yuan. Then I took it to the owner of the frozen meat stall. He asked me what I wanted to do? I told him my intention. "You can figure it out!" he said. "That's not what I thought. I said, 'It's popular in Europe, especially in the south of France.' " "I'll try your method too." The owner of the frozen meat stall said, "Maybe it will become a popular food again."

Take the beef bone to "Jinbao", wash it, put salt on it, put it in the microwave oven, and use the strongest fire to bite it for fifteen minutes. Through the glass, you can see that the bone body is boiling hot. Put four cups on a saucer, use a teaspoon to slowly take out the bone marrow, and the fragrance is overflowing.Boss Wu immediately opened a bottle of Vietnamese beer and brought it as a gift.First class. It's the fattest season of taro again. There are many ways to make taro, salty, sweet, and ever-changing, but the most famous one is Chaozhou Taro paste. It's quite an art, and the people who do it best, of course, are the moms at home.All the delicacies in the world come from the hands of mothers.It is not a question of how good the old man's cooking skills are, and it cannot be questioned. Once he argues, he will fight.

Everyone thinks that the method of mashed taro is very troublesome, but it is actually extremely simple: buy a large taro and steam it for about an hour, then take it out.Cut into half-inch thick slices, place the blade of the square kitchen knife on the taro slices with your right hand, press and drag the blade with your left hand, the taro will turn into powder, add sugar and stir-fry, and it will become mashed taro. How long does it take to fry? I am the least able to answer this kind of question. It depends on experience. It is cooked when it is cooked. If you fail once or twice, you must learn.

The most common taro pastes are ginkgo and pumpkin taro paste.The former is to peel the ginkgo, remove the heart and boil it in sugar water. Finally, put it on top of the mashed taro, which is processed in the same way, and sliced ​​to accompany it. But the pumpkin (also called pumpkin) made by the master is not so easy to slice. Their so-called pumpkin and taro mash is to rub the taro and put it aside. After it is cooked, use a small pumpkin, peel it, cut it, and choose the one with a stem. , can be used as a cover. Dig out the seeds of the pumpkin, put the yam paste in it, use a bowl to hold it firmly, then put it in a tall pot and steam it over water for two hours, then take it out.

At the table, it looks great.Divided into bowls, except for the stalks, you can eat it, one of the most delicious dishes in the world. If you want to eat expensive ones, you can make bird's nest taro paste.Use the above method to make mashed taro, put it in a glass pot, boil bird's nest in syrup, add it to the glass pot, the mashed taro is thick and will not melt, at this time, it is two layers, the top is white, and the bottom is purple Yes, it is truly beautiful. If you want to eat cheap, use white fungus instead of bird's nest, it is equally delicious, and I believe the nutrition is not much different.What? The yam paste you made is not tasty? Of course, you didn't add lard.

Once I live in Japan, I have many friends and classmates. In the 1960s when everyone was poor, meat was the most expensive food. I like to talk about a passage In the past, I ate curry rice: I thought I was an ascetic monk, and I had to save everything. When I went to a restaurant, I would always choose the cheapest one. No matter how small the restaurant is, there is a glass window displaying various wax dishes with prices marked.A plate of forty-men buckwheat ramen, with only a few shreds of seaweed on it, is too boring to eat.Seeing that plate of fifty-men curry rice, there is a piece of pork the size of a postage stamp on it.Well, wait until Saturday night and eat it.The rice was on the table, but there was no meat, so I used an iron spoon to open the curry paste and searched carefully. No matter how hard I searched, I couldn't find it, so I had to give up. The half-fat and lean pork that I refused to eat at home, I want to eat when I come to a foreign land.I thought it would be nutritious only if it was oily, but I was disappointed. This matter is still fresh in my memory. I am not one to be easily overwhelmed by grief.No meat to eat? Find a way! Walk past the butcher shop, the most The cheap ones are pig's feet.The Japanese don't know how to eat it. I will sell you a pig's foot for 20 Dou, and you can buy 10 for 160 Dou, and the store will give you two as a gift.Take it back and braise it.The Japanese are industrious and have already shaved the hair cleanly, and can be processed after washing. The huge pot used for the side stove came in handy again. After the pig’s feet rolled for a while, poured out the water, passed the cold river, and then added water to cover the pig’s feet. Added soy sauce and sugar packets from the coffee shop, Cook will rise. Of course, adding pepper star anise and rock sugar is the best, but how can there be such ingredients? Two hours later, a large pot of fragrant braised pig's trotters was ready to be served. Everyone enjoyed eating meat after a long time. It was even happier to invite some Japanese students to cook for them when they came back. If I can't finish it, I can eat it the next day. A friend came and asked strangely that there is no refrigerator, where can I get the pork knuckles? It turns out that you just need to open the window and put it outside.The same question, why is the cola in summer iced? Put it under the tap, the groundwater is cold, and the fruit is also used in the same way. For the remaining pig juice, put a dozen eggs into it and cook until there is no drop left. Over time, classmates called our apartment "Green House Kitchen", which also produces the famous dumplings.I bought some ground meat at the butcher shop, and bought a lot of dumpling wrappers from the noodle shop, hundreds of them per pack.There are many types of fillings, including garlic, leeks, cabbage or cabbage. The big pot of water boiled, put the dumplings in it.Float, add a bowl of cold water, float again, add more.After rolling three times, the dumplings are ready to eat. Finally, add some green onion and soy sauce to the water as a soup.A classmate named Kato later became a monk.When I visited Hong Kong decades later, I asked him if he wanted to go to a vegetarian restaurant? He replied that he wanted to eat the dumplings I cooked for him back then, and I said there was meat! Not meat. " It's not always successful. I met some girls from Taiwan. They came to the green house to eat a few meals. They were embarrassed and took the mullet roe sent from home as a gift.We poor boys don't know how precious it is, so we use it to cook soup, and the result is a mess, with a strong fishy smell. It's really wasteful. Tell them about it and make fun of it.They stayed that night, and we didn't waste it.Rolling a big pot of porridge has never failed.The Japanese do not eat the heads of other fish except sea bream.When I went to the food department on the basement floor of a department store, I saw the staff cut off the fish head and prepared to throw it away, so I asked them for it and gave it away for free.Take it back and cut it into pieces, fry it with oil, put it into the pot of porridge that was boiled in advance, and roll it for more than ten minutes, and it's ready. Put a pot of water on the gas stove used for heating, and boil it to make tea. One day, my cohabitant had already boiled water, and I rushed back from the outside. I opened the door and hit the kettle, and I fell in like that. My feet were scalded, and it hurt my lungs. I took off my socks under force. The layers of skin were also peeled off, revealing bloody white flesh. This is a good time, there is no scald medicine at home, and a group of people living together don't know what to do. "My mother said to use oil." One of them said, "You can use corn oil instead of medicinal oil." "No, no, no." The other said, "My mother said that soy sauce works." There was a lot of discussion, and then corn oil and soy sauce were poured on my feet. "It's not pig's feet! What are you doing?" I yelled, and they were stunned.It was late at night and the nearby clinics were closed.I didn't go to any emergency hospital, I swallowed more than a dozen sleeping pills and couldn't fall asleep. It got a little psychedelic, and I laughed to myself while telling the story, making trouble until dawn. Unfortunately, the next day I received a telegram from my father, saying that he was in Japan on business and asked me to meet him at the airport.I had to put on a pair of new socks and put on my shoes, lest he might be worried, so I couldn't pretend to be limping.When we arrived at the hotel to put down our luggage, my father suddenly said that he wanted to visit the Green House, so he had to bring it with him.Remembering that he likes to eat chicken, especially cocktails, he went to the chicken shop to buy a large pot of porridge before going home. You can't see whole chickens in Japanese chicken shops, and they are sold separately: breast is breast, wing is wing, and leg is leg.As for the chicken butts, they were also washed clean and placed in a row on an iron plate.Just buy a plate of it, the Japanese cocktail is fat and there are dozens of them. Walking into the house, my father felt sad.I thought he found out that I was burned, but it turned out that he saw us living in such a small place and felt it.Immediately pretended not to see it, and cooked porridge.The big pot of chicken butts was delicious for the first few, and everyone tried their best to add to them. As a result, the old people were afraid of the chicken butts when they saw it, and they never dared to touch it for the rest of their lives. Hokkaido's crabs, snails, shellfish, peony shrimp, etc., I had a great time eating, but it was a pity that the time was up and I returned to Hong Kong. My friend Luo Bacai said that Lau Fau Shan's fat girl Zhu Suwen called from "Bay Bay Seafood". There was a two-pound clam and asked if we were interested in eating it? If you wish for it, you can drive there immediately. If there is no traffic jam, it will only take half an hour to get to Lau Fau Shan from Tsim Sha Tsui. "Is there any catfish?" I asked "There is a black carp that weighs two catties." Fei Mei said, "The carp is also delicious when fried. Grouper fish cannot be fried. Only carp can do this. It's very fat and it's covered in oil." "Steam. I said. "The mussels are already steamed, it's better to change it." "Steamed. I have no other choice for eating fish. "I just dissected...the dragon grouper with large tail pattern, how to do it, and steam it again?" asked the fat girl. "Steam." I said, "Just eat the fish lips." As a result, the three kinds of raw fish were eaten and even the juice was buried. They were not artificially bred, and they were sold less.If the natural fish is underweight or not up to the standard, Fei Mei will not call to inform. The clam meat is slender, and it is a nobleman among fish, only three knives can rival it.Long grouper lips are very bite, and bone bites are even more flavorful.There is also that tail of squid, which has a faint fragrance before the mouth.Carp is not as expensive as imagined, it's just that it's not easy to find raw ones. "Do you want shrimp?" Fei Mei asked. "Let's get some dog prawns." Dog prawns are a specialty of Lau Fau Shan. Of course they are not farmed. People who don't understand them think they are cheap. In fact, they are the most delicious. The paste on the head is so much and sweet. Who says cheap is not good? ? If you are full, you will also have a large plate of fried rice with shrimp paste. Lau Fau Shan Shrimp Paste is famous.Then fry it with live shrimp, a must.Dessert comes with fried durian. "Cold medicine, cold medicine." I yelled. "What cold medicine?" Fei Mei asked. "Happiness is cold. I said," I am so happy after eating this meal. " The golden lacquered signboard at the door, in Huang Tingjian's handwriting, has the words "Da La La" written in large characters.The place is not big, about 3,000 square feet, and the decoration is simple and unpretentious.The biggest feature is the center of the lobby The one with the copper listed pot.And the pillars are full of waiting-, called Si, Hanxiu Hanxiu, Hanpubai/\\\". The shop is full of customers. Probe to see the contents of the pot.The glasses were instantly blurred by the acrid steam, and there was only a bright red abstract painting, alive and morphing, emitting white smoke. What is cooked are stacks of pork ribs, pork knuckles, pork neck, cheek meat, pork belly, pork heart, pork liver, pork intestines, and of course, a large amount of pork red.In short, the most delicious parts of the whole pig are in it! The soup in this big pot is never replaced, and ingredients and the hottest dried chili, chili powder, pepper, wasabi, mustard are constantly added, and all the factors that cause spiciness are added, except that MSG is not used. There are many pairs of three-foot-long chopsticks on the side of the pot. Guests can choose as they like and fill the meat with meat. One bowl counts as one bowl, and two bowls counts as two bowls. The chef will chop the pieces for you and serve them deliciously. As soon as you sit down, drink with this bowl first.Beer is immersed in a vat filled with ice cubes, learning "Dongbao Kitchen".The chicken bowl used for drinking has been frozen.After taking a sip of beer, there was a sizzling sound, as if it could extinguish the burning stomach fire. On the walls are posters of varieties of peppers from all over the world, both fresh and sun-dried. There is no standard to measure the degree of spiciness, and it can only be compared. The chart is calculated from the least spicy pepper to the hottest. We thought that the Thai chili pepper that would kill people, the spiciness is just "" Six" that's all. "Ten" is a small yellow bell pepper from Xiawana, Cuba.The green chili we used to coat the dace gelatin has a "zero" spiciness, which is not popular at all. Hanging from the patio are strings of electric balls in the shape of green and red peppers, emitting bright light; there are also countless garlic, although garlic has nothing to do with the pepper family, but it is the best companion. The clothes of the waiters are bright red for women and green for men, serving tea with a smile, and Prunella vulgaris for those who don’t drink. When I opened the menu, I saw that it was full of famous spicy dishes from all over the world, such as curry and tom yum gong. There were also many spicy dishes that I had never heard of, and I couldn’t finish them in seven days if I tried them one by one.Called an American gentleman bean.It is served in a wooden bowl, and it is eaten with a wooden spoon. The bean red inside is definitely not dyed with succulent flowers. It is boiled with the hottest Texas chili pepper, and some bacon meat is sandwiched in the middle. Ah! The taste is amazing! This is the only authentic American dish, Indians eat it, and other foods in the United States have foreign influences The mutton is cooked in a specially made pot, which never sticks to the bottom. Instead of soup, it is boiled in sauce, Guilin chili sauce, and a lot of garlic is added in the middle.The mutton is cut into thin slices, boiled until it is half-cooked, and it can be imported after being rinsed in a pot. If you think beer is not strong enough, you can order vodka soaked in chili.There are other options for people with alcohol sensitivities.In fact, the best drink to relieve spicy food is milk. The store sells fresh milk that is airlifted in from Hokkaido every day, with a concentration of five degrees. There is also a page on the menu that is the customer's original spicy dishes. It turns out that everyone can cook their own dishes in the kitchen of the store. The dishes are selected by the owner and will be listed in the menu under the name of the customer from now on.They come to this restaurant to eat, and their homemade dishes are free for life. Looking at the name, Mr. Chen, the boss of "Big Buddha", is also inside.The spicy boiled Dongfeng snails he made in the past have been imitated by major restaurants.One day, a spicy-loving guest asked him to cook the spiciest dish in the world. After thinking about it, Mr. Chen went into the kitchen, chopped a lot of chili peppers, mixed them in fish glue, and steamed them out.He said fried food was not spicy enough, and the guests all knelt down and begged for mercy. On the wall on the other side is a big sign, which is the list of hot and spicy food.The family has a special signature spicy dish with a secret recipe. It is served in a rooster bowl. The color is red and black with gold sandwiched between them.One bowl for one table, everyone can't finish it. The Dragon and Tiger List is full of names of customers, and the bottom line is enough to finish a bowl of signature spicy dishes by one person.The upper row is two bowls.The next row is three bowls, and so on.It was two years ago that the champion could eat eight bowls, and so far no one can break his record. Of course, champions can come to the store to eat for free at any time, and the first bowl of signature spicy dishes will count as money. You don't have to pay for the second bowl. Desserts include chili ice cream and chili liqueur. If you come to the store with someone who likes spicy food, if you don’t eat it yourself, you can call it “fake spicy meal”, which is very popular and looks scary, but it’s not spicy at all. At the checkout counter, chili books and chili recipes in various languages ​​are sold, and there is also the world's hottest chili sauce for sale, which uses 10 kilograms.The sauce is condensed into a small bottle and packed in a special small coffin box, which means fatal. Customers need to sign a life and death certificate if they want to buy this bottle of chili sauce. Because the materials are not very expensive, I feel that the price is reasonable when I pay the bill. We sometimes lose our appetite when we eat, and when we lose our appetite, we think of this restaurant called Da La La.Address: unknown Phone: not installed Everything is in my head, the store has not opened yet, are you interested in investing and being one of the shareholders? I had dinner with my friends in Zhongshan last night. I had a sore throat and couldn't lift my chopsticks very much. "Drink it, you'll be fine tomorrow. My good friend, Mr. Hou, ran into the kitchen and poured out a small bowl of Lexi. Very thick liquid, I asked: "What is this?" "Orange water." Mr. Hou said. "What orange?" I wondered. "The kind you keep at home during the Chinese New Year." He said, "Pick it off and soak it in salt. The longer you soak it, the more effective it will be." I am most afraid of sour things, but in order to reduce the pain, I tried my best to drink it. It is worthy of the name. The good medicine is sour. This morning, it is strange to say.All right.No sore throat at all. Every time after Chinese New Year, I see a lot of orange trees thrown by the roadside.I also have it at home, it is so sour that the birds don’t come to bite it, I will suffer the same fate, I will have to soak it in a tank next year, I don’t drink it myself, I keep it as a gift People are also good. Who invented the salted oranges? There is no record. Traditional Chinese medicine is based on accumulated experience.What's wrong with me now? I bought two pills from a western pharmacy and fixed it. Chinese medicine has been abandoned or forgotten like those orange trees. When I was a child, where did we get so many western medicines? Minor ailments were cured with materials from around the world. My parents brought up our four children that way.Where did they learn it, not the wisdom handed down from their parents. When we had sores on our hands and feet, my father took out his smoking pipe, pulled out the small iron bar in the middle that was stuck with vape oil, and applied vape oil to the sores. After two days, the wounds dried up and the sores disappeared without a trace. no trace.Running wildly, riding a bicycle, are prone to falls.If the skin is scratched, leave it alone, the wound becomes inflamed, and then a yellow thing grows, with a black spot in the center, like the single eye of an alien looking at you.It gets bigger and bigger, and the longer it gets, the more painful it becomes.When it was Dad's turn, he went to the tree to break off a thorn. When it was Mom's turn, there was an embroidery needle, which was sterilized by burning it with a match, and then gently picked apart the outer layer of the pus. I didn't feel any pain, and the dirty liquid flowed out. Then I went to the garden, found some leaves, crushed them, applied them on the wound, and it healed again.That kind of plant is called rooting from the ground. It is the easiest thing to grow in the world. Just pick off a leaf and put it on the soil, and it will grow so roughly. Not every disease should be cured until it occurs.Sometimes seeing our horns a little swollen, my mother diagnoses: "Hot!" Holding hands, walked to the public garden, saw bamboo, pulled out the needles of the bamboo leaves from the leaves, and then It took a lot of time to pull out the branches. We also helped, and finally pulled out a bunch. My mother announced: "Enough." Take it home, boil it in water for ten minutes, add some rock sugar, it's not too bad, and you'll be fine the next day .The economic conditions improved, and I began to have money to take medicines.A small bottle of "Po Chai Pill" cured my mild stomachache.At that time, it was still sealed with a very thin glass bottle, cork, and wax. When I opened it, I accidentally cut my finger, got sores, and had to look for roots. When her complexion was sallow and emaciated, my mother insisted again: "I have skin rash." I went to the pharmacy and bought a bottle of red and white sugar tarts, because there is no one from Switzerland. Although the taste is weird, it is sweet, and I can still eat it. One is invalid, and two more. A very long worm is excreted, at least several feet in length, wriggling and vivid. When it was more serious, my parents did not dare to pretend to be doctors anymore. They took us to a pharmacy called "Xingshengtang" in the new market, and a Chinese medicine doctor with a white beard took the pulse. That Bao Jiayingzi. The doctor shook his head again and again, reluctantly prescribing a prescription.The poor old man couldn't see it, but it turned out that he pretended to be sick, refused to go to school and stayed at home to read books. When I have a cough, I also have a dry cough and a wet cough, and I can never tell which one it is.I saw the trainee boy in the pharmacy take out a tube of antelope horns, and then scraped it with a piece of glass desperately to get the snow-white silk, and put it in sugar water. The effect is a bit like the tip of a bamboo leaf, which is the heat of medicine Over the years, the antelope horns have been cut thin and thin, and I feel a little sympathetic to it. When you have a bad stomachache, you turn to tradition.Our family followed the old habit of hanging two things that were blackened by smoke on the patio of the kitchen. When we asked Dad, they said they were swim bladders. Take it off with an iron axe, chop off a piece, wash it, stew it for several hours, add some rock sugar to eat it, it is not too fishy, ​​it is acceptable, and the stomach problem is cured. When I came to Hong Kong, I heard that my friend Mrs. Lan had a stomach problem, so I immediately wrote to my father and asked him for cod swim bladder for her to eat.Later, I followed suit and wanted to buy two pieces to hang in the kitchen, only to realize that they were as expensive as gold.It is a good thing to be able to cure a friend's illness.Dad said in a letter. No matter how advanced Western medicine is, I still believe in Chinese medicine.Also learn to respect the secret recipes of various countries.When I was making a film in Mexico, I went to their herbal medicine market, which was as big as ten football fields. I saw some tree bark, and the locals said it could cure burns, so I bought it immediately.At the filming scene, a martial artist was burned by the bullet, and the bark was taken out, and the staff ground it into powder on a stone, and pasted the wound, and it really worked.Filming a movie about snakes in India, the master snake charmer took out a small black lump, said it was herbal essence, gave any snake bite to the most venomous snake, as long as the small black lump was pasted on the wound, it would be fine of.Buy it from him with a lot of money.Living in an apartment, depending on the situation, I'm afraid there are not many opportunities to use it. Think back to when I was a child, I used traditional Chinese medicine to treat illnesses. Is it effective to rely on feet to treat serious illnesses? Maybe it is because children have strong resistance and can heal themselves without medicine, but the love of parents is like magic, you have to believe it. dinner Hong Kong people are the most adaptable. In the past when the economy was good, everyone ate shark fin for lunch. Today's white-collar workers already bring lunch boxes to work. The lunch box should be something that the Japanese started, and they call it "Ben Dang". The word "论" is difficult to write, so use "弗" instead. The word "Dang" is replaced by the abbreviated "Dang" and becomes "Ben Dang". "Ben Dang" is very popular in Taiwan, and it is called "Ben Tang", which is convenient and reasonable.Back then when I was filming in Taiwan, my favorite food was the pork rib bento. In the white lunch box, there was a thick piece of schnitzel on top, but the most delicious thing was not the piece of meat, but the salty sauerkraut that came with it, fried with red pepper and fermented soybeans. Fragrant, there are {~,- a few small dried fish, very savory, this ingredient alone can swallow the whole box of rice. The lunch boxes of Hong Kong people are mainly barbecued pork and white-cut chicken. A piece of barbecued pork is spread on the white rice and cut into several pieces;Of course, there is a world of difference between good and bad lunch boxes. Most of the char siu and chicken are old or too thin, dry and hard to swallow.But when it tastes good, the char siu is half fat and thin, and extremely soft.With the seasoning of boiled chicken, soaked green onion and ginger in oil Rong, I really never get tired of eating. But we never pay attention to the container. Since it is a lunch box, "rice" and "box" are the most important factors, and we have ignored them.Taiwan used to use a round iron box. After eating, the hawker collected it and washed it before using it. I think it is quite flavorful.Nowadays, it is said to be unhygienic and convenient. Hong Kong and Taiwan all use white styrofoam boxes, which is disgusting at first sight. Japanese bento boxes are much more exquisite. Some are made of lacquerware, some are made of rattan, and even the most common ones are made of pure white thin wooden boxes, which are discarded after use.This virgin veneer has a burst of aroma that is particularly appetizing. The most delicious Japanese bento is "yubian". When parking at various stations, there is an old man on the platform carrying dozens of bento for sale.Each station sells local delicacies from mountains and seas as materials. Buying a bento will also give you a pottery teapot with the lid as a teacup. You can drink it while watching the beautiful maple leaves or cherry blossoms. It is a very high artistic conception. Today's Japanese bento also use plastic boxes, but plastic teapots have been used instead. Later, even tea is not served, anyway, there are canned tea.There must be family members selling bento near the office.At noon, you can see white-collar workers with bento in their hands on the street, take it back to the office building to eat, or find a corner in the park, and devour that kind of cold and unpalatable food. However, although Japanese bentangs are not delicious, they are always good-looking. After eating bentangs for a long time, a culture is formed. The Japanese are first-class in terms of color matching.They studied that if there are three colors of red, yellow and green in the lunch box visually, it can most arouse appetite. Usually eggs are yellow, vegetables are green, and tomatoes are red. According to this system, the color of food Classification of colors can cause changes and make many different dishes. Certain bento are aimed at the kids market.In the past, only one sour plum dyed red was added to the rice, like the Japanese flag, and it was called "Hinoide".Today's children's bento cut patterns out of seaweed and pasted them on the white rice balls to turn them into small footballs, or print a red panda in a pattern.Goods that are fun and can entice children to eat. Some bentos are specifically for the women’s market. They use more vegetables, fish or chicken breasts for cooking, and calculate how many calories they add up, so that women can control their weight; Women are pleased. Some biandang specialize in the big stomach market. The ingredients are desperately sweetened and salty, and the amount of rice can be as much as possible, so that everyone can eat until they are full. Whether it is good or not is not very important. We often learn Japanese methods, but we never study their spirit. The most important thing about lunch boxes is rice and boxes. Why don’t we work hard on plain rice? No matter how unpalatable the dish is, the rice used in Japanese Bendang is always from Niigata. It looks plump and shiny.Of course, Japanese rice is expensive in foreign countries, but how much can a box of rice cost? The wool comes from sheep, and customers can afford the extra money, so cooking...you must use Japanese rice, or Taiwanese rice. Penglai rice is also OK. If you want to save costs, you must at least use the "Nishiki" brand or "Lou" brand of Japanese rice grown in the United States. Nowadays, a lot of Japanese rice is also grown in Heilongjiang, and the price is cheap. Hong Kong people who are not used to the stickiness of Japanese rice, then You can use silk seedlings from Nankun Mountain or Xiaolong sticky rice from the Pearl River Delta. In short, the rice is not good, let alone a lunch box. The boxes are made of thin wooden boxes to be clean and hygienic. Wooden boxes made in Japan are expensive, and they are bought in mainland China. Most of the ones used by Japanese people today are made in mainland China. If wooden boxes are not used, shell boxes can be used instead.There is a factory in Shantou that grinds rice husks into powder, adds water and kneads them into soft lumps, puts them into iron molds and presses them out into beautiful boxes. The price is cheap and environmentally friendly. Why not do it? Of course, the more exquisite the lunch box that I use every day, the better. I bought one carved out of a bamboo tube, and it can be regarded as an antique.I also miss seeing enamel lunch boxes when I was a child. Layers of iron boxes with colorful patterns are stacked and strung together with an iron frame. Busy urbanites no longer have the pleasure of bringing such a big lunch box to work. When they went to Japan, they used " "Bought one from a department store, there are hundreds of choices of large and small, in various shapes, and there must be one you like. Cantonese mothers or wives always cook soup when they take care of their families. Gradually disappearing, the economy is depressed, the era of making lunch boxes has come, at least make a decent one, let your husband or children take it I go to bookstores in Tokyo for everything I eat, read the book --~ "Gourmet Street", and buy it immediately. It was originally written by a food critic in New York. I have already read the Japanese translation of (The Man Who Eats Everything). The author has many eccentricities. He does not eat Korean kimchi, salted fish, lard, Indian desserts, MSG soup, sea urchin, etc. This is tantamount to an art critic who doesn't like yellow, or is colorblind to red and green.How can I write a food review without eating so many things? There are various ways to overcome food phobias: 1. Brain surgery: Stimulating the tonsils of mice can change their partial eclipse habits, and manipulating the human brain should also have the same effect, but our author gave up this idea. 2. Hunger: Aristotle said that food tastes better when hungry, but the author only wrote in 1978 I was hungry once a year, and I never quit. 3. Chocolate: If you are willing to try something you hate, you will get a piece of chocolate as a reward.But this way, even children can't be fooled. 4. Medication: most of the drugs that cause appetite have side effects, such as insomnia, depression, etc., the author said forget it. 5. Try: Force yourself to try, and you will accept if you try too much. The author thinks this is the only way he can accept. As a result, he went to Korean restaurants ten times and bought eight cans of salted fish. After six months of hard work, he fell in love with kimchi and accepted salted fish. And you? Is there anything you don’t eat? Want to get over it? As for myself, I am a very curious person. I can only describe things in the sky as airplanes, but tables with four legs, rocks that are hard, and cotton that are soft? I think all can Eat imported, have to try.Only after you have tried it can you be qualified to say whether it is good or not.I don't have to force myself.My wife often jokes: "It's easy to poison you, just tell you you haven't eaten this kind of thing, try it. The influence of my parents is very important. When I was a child, I watched my mother serve wine with cockroaches. This kind of insect called dragon louse in Cantonese has become rare when I grow up.For nostalgia, keep looking.Fortunately, retro is popular recently, and dragonflies are also on the market.It's not scary to eat oily dragon lice. Of course, you just peel off the hard shell, press your fingers on the head, and pull out the intestines. After chewing the rest of the body, it smells like lard residue. Like a scorpion. When it comes to lard residue, the impact of poverty is also related. Back then, I was happy to eat a bowl of snow-white rice, and it was even better to be topped with lard.The lard residue is a little sweet, and it is more delicious than any fast food you eat. There are some things that I am afraid to eat because I have never tried a good one, like foie gras, I ate a piece of it in a western restaurant when I was a student, and I thought it smelled like a dead body. To fall in love with real foie gras, look how many chances I lost! For dog lovers, eating dog meat is a sin.The first time I tried dog meat was when I came back from my study abroad. A group of old classmates raised a black vegetable dog for me, boiled it with fermented bean curd and invited me to eat it.They spent three months for this meal. How can they get by if they don’t try it? It’s really good and delicious.But I won't be looking for it again.Moreover, the way to overcome the psychological barrier is: this vegetable dog does not guard the door, nor does it contain newspapers, it just eats and eats blindly, like pigs more than dogs, what I eat is pigs. I even tried dog lungs.Decades ago, I saw someone set up a street stall on the streets of Guangzhou. All parts of a dog were boiled and dried, and displayed in slices.I saw the word "dog lung" written on the sign in front of a pile of meat, so I bought a slice and imported it.I have been scolded by women a lot, how can I not know its taste? Let me tell you, dog lung is not delicious, so you don’t have to try it. There are as many edible things as a universe.For those who don’t like cheese, the way to guide them to eat it is to ask them to try the fruit or nut cheese produced in Australia first. It is sweet, like cake more than cheese, and they don’t feel sick after eating it.Afterwards, I ate goat cheese from cow cheese, and there are endless varieties of research, which opened up a new world. Do you not eat durian? Ask the vendor to peel the shell for us, take it home and put it in the ice tray, the durian meat will not It is frozen hard, tastes like ice cream, and the smell is not so strong. Slowly, you will become addicted, and another world is waiting for you to discover. Only food can break the barriers between people. When talking about food with people from other countries, there is always something in common.The happy thing I often hear is that Shunde people love to talk about food, and everyone they meet says that the fish skin dumplings made by their mother are the best. I can eat anything, but I don't like wild game.It's not for the sake of environmental protection, I just think that these things are not easy to come by, and for those things that are not easy to come by, there are only a few monotonous cooking methods, which are far less varied than cattle and sheep.In a restaurant I often go to, pigs alone can easily conjure thirty-six dishes. 我常说，与其保护濒临绝种的动物，不如保护濒临绝种的食物。许多,~吃过的味道，当今已尽失。能够尝到传统的食物，已经觉得非常幸福，哪里有时间讨论什么不吃的? 花生，又叫落花生，多美丽的名字! 温带地方的七月中旬，绽开着黄色花朵，近看纤纤细细，楚楚可 怜，但一开一大片，像在绿色的大地盖了一层黄色的绒毛，绝景也。 有了这个浪漫的名字后，没见过的人以为黄花掉落在地上，就会长出果实。不，不，有人还相信不是花朵，而是花辦上的露水落地长仁呢。大概在清晨六点左右开花，十点钟就收起来，日落后躲在叶下睡大觉。其实花生的花枯了，也不跌落。受精后长成子房柄，紧紧缠着茎而往地下延生下去，才结成果。一株花生约长三百至四百花朵，有机会让花粉飘进来的不到十分之一，长的花生，却是无数的。 美味的果仁在地底下成长，不被细菌侵入或鸟儿吃掉，也是大自然神奇的力量，花生是平凡的、朴素的，名副其实地脚踏实地长成。 把生满叶子的茎一抓，扳起来，根部都是一荚荚的花生，被污泥包着。 水洗之后，一颗颗洁白肥胖的花生就呈现在眼前，这时候恨不得即刻将它剥开，"咔"的那个清脆的响声，也是独特的。 里面的果仁包着红颜色的衣，有时是紫色。大家以为花生不能生吃，那是水分干丁，才有点所谓"臭青"的味道，我在花生田里尝过刚刚拔出来的，那股清香至今难忘。不过花生农夫看到我那副馋嘴相，还是摇头笑道："別吃太多，太多了会肚子痛。" 花生的吃法，仔细研究出来至少有上百种。最普通是把它炒熟了，这是我最不喜欢的，有时那层衣还会黏在气管或喉咙上，让我咳个半死。收获后即刻水煮最佳，吃了也不会满口油，咬起来软熟，满口香甜。剥完又剥，吃个饱死为止。 比煮更高级的是隔火焖之。小贩们一车车推出街上，看到了非买不可。可惜这种行业已见不到，偶尔在旺角还找到一档，老头走不动时，便在香港消失了。 、这种吃法在大陆还很普遍，通常是用一个香烟铁罐当量器，以当地最小的硬币交易，然后把花生倒在一个卷起来的纸筒中递到客人手里。我爸妈看我们带着女伴上街乱花钱的时候，常说当年他们两人只用一个铜板，买了花生在公园中剥，一天很容易度过。 当时我也想这么做，不过没找到一位像我妈那样的纯朴的女朋友。水煮后风干的花生也很不错。当今在九龙城的街市经常可以买到，便宜时五块钱一斤，一买就是五公斤，吃个不停，吃完了屁也放个不停。 连壳煮，煮得湿湿地剥开来吃又有另一番味道，但是煮得人味与否?够不够软熟?完全是经验和学问。我在绍兴时试过的几家餐馆，煮花生都做得不错，但是和"咸丰酒家"的一比，就比下去了，没有比他们的水煮花生更好的下酒餸，捧着那碗浓得挂壁的太雕，再来多七八碟水煮花生也吃不厌。鲍参翅肚，走开一边吧! 南洋一带，还喜欢把花生用慢火烩干。最著名的当然是马来西亚怡保的万里望。十二三岁时到当地旅行，看街边一档档小贩卖铁罐装的，一大桶一大桶十分便宜，买回去后倒出来，才发现桶里塞了三分之二的砂石和报纸，花生只铺在上面一层。人生第一次遇上骗局，记忆犹新。 出名的万里望有农夫牌和手指牌，认定了去买，才知道有好几个农夫和好几只手指，也不知哪一家是正宗的，难吃起来牙齿咬崩了也不香，好吃的人口即化，吃个不停。家父的葬礼上，守夜之佘，全靠万里望，才止住眼泪。 真是爱死花生。尤其是卤水，学问更大。餐厅里开饭之前总有一碟，做得好的话宁愿整晚食之，也不多碰正餐。广州白天鹅酒店对面，有一家叫"侨美"的饭馆，所做卤水花生一流，叫个十碟，面不改色，但嫌略甜。最好吃的应该是新加坡的一间叫"发记"的潮州餐厅，用卤水鹅的汁去煮花生，天下绝品。 但是花生也有讨厌之处，榨成的花生油，味道就是我最不喜欢的，用花生酱来涂面包，愈吃愈觉得平庸俗气。酒吧中桌前那碟煎花生米，更是 没有文化，世上那么多好的下酒餸，为什么要吃这种单眼镜博士牌子的美国货? 花生还有一个情形之下最过瘾，那就是在新加坡莱佛士酒店里的"长吧"。当地扔垃圾会被罚款，酒徒们集中在这里面，一边呷啤酒一边把花生壳丢得满地，以图发泄。 那一年住巴塞隆纳，好几个月的西班牙海鲜饭吃下来，吃得怕了。想起花生煲猪脚，想疯了，决定自己做来吃，猪脚猪手都能找到，就是没有生的花生，后来要托人到产地去才找到几磅，即刻炮制。 先把花生用滚水过一过，去掉衣上的涩味，就可以煮了，和猪脚一起煲一小时三十分左右，又香又软熟，汤不必下味精也够甜。 整锅猪脚花生一个人吃个精光，中国人表现饱的手势是捧着肚皮，意大利人手掌放在喉咙处，西班牙人做双手从双耳流出状。当时我才明白他们形容得贴切，我的确是吃花生吃得快要从耳朵喷出来，大乐也。 人生中最初接触到的食用菌类，是最普通的冬菰。小时吃，觉得奇香，是宴客时才上的高级材料，后来出现大量农场种的，就不 稀奇，味道也失去了。 当今冬菰上桌时，吃也只吃它的杭，斋菜中有一道冬菰棺，拆开后很像江瑶柱。冬菰本来是中国人首先吃的东西，结果给日本人沾了光，现在连外国人也用日本名称呼，叫，人人都知道是冬菇。 我带美食旅行团去冈山吃水蜜桃，行程也安排去一家叫"美作园"的，可以参观冬菰的培养，把一节节的松木斩断后钻些小洞，放进冬菰菌的胎胞就能长出，新鲜摘下来后烧烤，非常美味，值得一游。 再下来吃到的是蘑菰，以为是黄颜色，因为多数是罐头食品，后来在菜市上才看到新鲜的蘑菰，纯白色。它的白，白得非常可爱。蘑菰很甜，百食不厌。到外国旅行时酒店的自助早餐经常有煎蘑菰，最爱吃了。 晒干后的草菰也是我们家里常吃的，在冷水中泡一泡，洗净了沙拿去煮汤，呈褐黑色。本来不引起食欲，但是把鸡胸肉片成薄片，待汤全滚时扔人，即刻熄火。汤黑中带白，很美丽，也特别甜。这道菜任何人来做都不会失败。在外国生活时，找不到草菰，用羊肚菌或牛肝菌干代替，效果更佳。 第一次试大蘑菰是在意大利，放在碟中，有整块牛扒那么大，用刀叉锯来吃，不逊肉类。这种菰在欧洲诸国或澳洲常见，香港超市出售的是由荷兰进口，看到了一定买下。做法很简单，在平底镬中下点牛油，待生烟，就把大菰放下去，面朝底。蘑菰不可水洗，只要用厨纸擦干净就行，有了水滴就喷到满脸油。煎个两三分钟，看菰的厚度而定，再翻过来煎一煎，最后淋上酱油，即上桌，香甜无比。谁都会做，不妨一试。十多二十年前，竹笙打进香港市场，当时惊为天人，还传说是生长在竹筒里的囊。其实也只是菌类的一种，在云南很多，新鲜的切块后打边炉来吃，算不了什么。 今时流行健康食物，菰类大行其道，云南和各地都有野菌宴。都是吃菰，非常单调。总有不满足的感觉，那么最好是把它当成早餐。早上吃清淡一点也好，一碗汤更解宿醉。上次在昆明，就叫酒店为我们安排一人一个小边炉，桌上摆满菌类自助，离奇的味道和形状的有鹿花菌、桦草菌、白蛟伞、星孢寄生菇、白香蘑、灰鹅膏菌、细褐鳞蘑菇等等，当然少不了出名的鸡枞菌。拿来白灼，多生多熟自主。汤底是用山瑞肉熬出来的，多 丁动物味，吃起来就不觉得寡了。 黑松露菌法国人当宝，它埋在土里，起初是拉了一头猪去闻出所在挖出来的，后来猪抢先吃掉，人不甘愿，就放弃用猪，改养狗代之，狗较笨，服从性强，不会偷吃，但法国人也不太信任它，最后靠自己的鼻子，弄得满脸泥巴。这种菌极少，很珍惜地吃，刨一点和鸡蛋一齐炒，最便宜的东西配上最贵的，也不错。意大利的白松露菌也是此般吃法，非常寒酸，我曾经在巴黎的一家名店买了一樽泡渍的，每瓶都有鱼丸那么大，一粒一千港币，一口食之，才觉得有点过瘾。 日本的松茸也是珍品，最典型的吃法是切了--4,片，放在一个像小茶壶的器具中，加鸡肉、银杏、鱼饼当汤，称之为土瓶蒸。可别小看这一片东西，香味全靠了它。真正的日本松茸香味奇佳，但产量极少，不道德的商人还把铅粒塞在菌中增加重量。当今在日本市面看到的，如果价钱略为合理，都是韩国产。韩国的味道大为逊色，后来又发现中国有同样东西，我们叫为价口蘑的。日本人就大量进口，价钱更便宜了。但是大陆松茸得个甜字，已无甚香味可言。反而是在泰国清迈找到一种小粒的菇，皮爽脆，咬破之后甜膏喷出，比什么黑白松露菌和松茸都好吃。说到贵，我们不可忘记冬虫夏草也属菌类，灵芝当然也是菰，前者身价何止百倍，后者要找野生的，已经几乎绝迹了。 和女人一样，最甜美的最毒，外表极为鲜艳的菰我们一定要小心。有时抽们／常抖平网姑样子俭普涌的羊叶蘭叫为佣南的 吃死了很多人，有种叫灯笼菌的一6一在暗处甚至会发光，香味浓郁，釆者以为可食，最可怕的是，也叫为"摧灭天使-"，吃--／,块，即死! 读过卡洛士康斯坦尼所写的一系列《唐瑭的教导》，对迷幻的菰产生很大的兴趣，我在南美洲拍戏时一直要求当地工作人员替我找些来试试，但他们推三推四，原来不好找，巫师们才拥有一些，终于没吃过。不过在印尼的海边上，小贩们卖的蓝色奄姆列倒是尝了，把幻觉菰混入鸡蛋中煎。吃过之后全身舒服无比，白沙沙滩变为云状的沙发，望着太阳，晒上三个小时，一点也不觉时间过得快，对身体无害，够胆可以一试。