Chapter 7 Cai Lan talks about eating-7

There can't be a restaurant in this kind of place, right? "Maoshan Restaurant" is hidden in a deep alley, and it is impossible for a local to take me. Fazhao. When I first heard about such a restaurant, my first reaction was: "~? Is it Maoshan Taoist's Maoshan?" Mr. Wu, the manager, in his thirties, stood at the door to welcome me with a smile, and immediately asked the question. "No, no, no." He said that there is also a place in Guangzhou called Maoshan, which is the largest slaughterhouse in Guangdong, slaughtering 2,000 pigs a day. " "Private or state-run?"

Of course it's state owned. "Mr. Wu said, "However, the investment is too large. The cutting-edge slaughtering machines cost a total of 100 million yuan. Now opening this restaurant to help subsidize the subsidy can also be said to be a niche in the enterprise." Walking in, there are many glass water tanks installed at the door, and there are all kinds of seafood in them. I looked at it and cried secretly: "Is it Hong Kong-style steamed fish and shrimps again? I'm tired of eating it." The hall is unexpectedly huge, with more than 20 tables that can be placed, and there are more than a dozen VIP rooms upstairs. The rent is cheap to afford this kind of style, which is unimaginable for Hong Kong restaurants.

It was full of guests at noon, and I habitually looked at what dishes they were ordering on the table? The restaurant with the most people must be the best. ... a large iron plate with a diameter of half a foot was burning red, and there were all kinds of pig offal in it, which were fragrant and sizzling, and could be seen on every table. "What's this dish called?" I asked. "Je jel." Mr. Wu said. "Isn't it on the pot? . "So I didn't add a word of pot." Mr. Wu explained: "It's just...the traditional way of growing Cantonese cuisine." After sitting down, I immediately asked for jelly, and it took less than five minutes to be on the table, and I took a piece of it with chopsticks send population.Ye! It's fragrant and crispy,...not hard at all, it's really delicious.If you look closely at the contents, there are small intestines, the tip of the belly and pork carcass, and there are also thin and long things, which are also very refreshing.

"What?" I've never seen it. "Pig jelly." Mr. Wu said. See gel, the genitals of a baby boy in Cantonese. Mr. Wu smiled again: "If you don't add other internal organs, but just blindly pickle it, this dish is called Liu Que Kujian." I almost fell off my chair laughing. Looking at this jelly, it is only as thick as an earthworm, and some parts are still curved. I can't help asking: "How can the pig's jelly be so much thinner than the bullwhip?" "Pigs are all eunuchs, which are useless and thin." Mr. Wu said, "Ordinary pig whips are not thick, and they penetrate into the sow's body in a spiral shape."

That's amazing! No wonder there are so many piglets in a lifetime. "For the...first time." I said. "We operate a slaughterhouse, and we only get the goods. You can't eat them in restaurants outside, but not all of them are boars. Sometimes they are slaughtered for two minutes, and there are only a few. Next came the salt candle pork loin, which was sliced ​​thinly and the white part in the middle was not removed.After taking a bite, there is no peculiar smell at all, what is the reason? Mr. Wu asked the master chef to come out and explain: "Oh! I poured water beforehand, but the main thing is that it is fresh enough. This morning, it was sent directly from the slaughterhouse and made fresh. The ones sold in the vegetable market cannot be called fresh. If it has been frozen , can't eat like this at all."

"Are you afraid of getting sick? This is the most important question. "Inspect once before slaughtering, check again after opening, and check again before shipment. Experts are in charge. The slaughtering machine is more advanced than Hong Kong's. Our pigs are handled by hanging and never touch the ground. Wan... If it is found to be suspicious, the slaughter will be stopped immediately, and the entire batch of pigs will be completely wiped out." Mr. Wu promised, "So the pigs from Maoshan are also called peace-of-mind pigs." Now I was relieved a hundred times: "What will I eat next? How many dishes are there for this meal?"

Not only do you ask clearly, but you don't know how to keep your belly. "Today I prepare a whole pig feast for you, a total of thirty-six." Mr. Wu said.Yi groaned.Good! Just eat it! If it’s delicious, it’s fine.The following thirty-four dishes are: 1. Tangerine skin bones; 2. Stewed pig lungs with gold and silver vegetables; 4. Salt and pepper yellow throat; 5. Pork with taro; 6. Fried pork chop; 7. Pork knuckle with abalone sauce; Yanjiong belly tip; 12. Spice pork carcass; 13. Stir-fried pork slices with sauce; 14. Fried nine-turned large intestine; ; 18. Stir-fried bacon with large kale slices; 19. Stir-fried roasted pork with cold melon; 20. Red pork with leeks; 3. Black glutinous rice wine boiled raw intestines, 24. Stir-fried pork heart with five kernels; 25. Large intestines stuffed with salted egg yolk; Scrambled eggs; 29. ​​Boiled pork lung skirt; 30. Deep-fried ghost fried crispy intestines; 31. Red grave without seeing the sky; 32. Pig brain soup; Thirty-four, dragon and phoenix match.

"Longfeng match?" I screamed, "I don't eat cats!" "No, no, no." Mr. Wu said, "It's chicken and pig." Calling a pig a dragon, I obey him. Seeing my expression, Mr. Wu said, "The whole pig is a treasure. If you want to cook, you can't finish a hundred dishes. Just a single pig head can eat stewed nose, burnt noodles, and roasted pork neck." , Melaleuca jelly, pork tongue with salt and pepper, and even the root part of the pig's leg is called Tianti, which is also very delicious." "Why do you say that a pig testicle is missing?" I joked.

"Didn't you just say that all pigs are castrated? Where did the testicles come from?" Mr. Wu also said Xiao Ding, have you ever eaten it?I asked, "I have eaten it." Mr. Wu said. The pig loin is very small, but the testicles are huge, full of Fuji The apple is so big but it tastes numb. I have only eaten one in my life. It can be said to be a pill that slipped through the net, hahahaha. Anyone who is used to traveling has been to "Din Tai Fung" in Taipei. I don't need to introduce it again. This time the main thing is to look at its central kitchen. The boss Yang Jihua greeted him at the door and introduced the chef Lu Ruowang.

The place is not very big. The current production is only for our shop. In the future, the daily production capacity can reach 15,000 steamed dumplings, 8,000 siu mai and 3,000 big bags, and the raw materials can be processed from 7 to 800 kilograms. Meet seven or eight branches. Before putting on a white robe, mask, and long rubber boots, you have to enter the disinfection room to blow, wash your hands, soak your boots, and then go to the kitchen. A group of people are making xiao long bao and dumplings, among which more than a dozen masters sent by Hong Kong are studying, and I say hello cordially.

"Relax, don't force yourself." Boss Yang read the instructions. The little girl from Hong Kong is still so nervous. It is standard to fold eighteen folds for a dumpling. I was itchy to see the messy feet, so I took a piece of leather and wrapped it myself, not to mention how many folds I could fold, it was a mess, and my hands were full of meat. Then he walked to another table, surrounded by seven or eight chefs, one of whom put the dough stuffed with meat on the electronic scale, no more, no less, the standard weight was 21 grams. "How long does it take to train to this level?" I asked. "Three months for making dumplings." Chef Lu said, "Three months for making Xiaolongbao. If you can learn how to make all the products in the store, it will take two years." Hong Kong masters came to Beijing before, and Beijing masters came to Japan before, and they have to train here for a long time before they can open a branch. "Even if it is a steamer, you have to be careful." Chef Lu said, "The bamboo head will burst if it is too dry, and it will become moldy if it is too wet." Steamers made in Hong Kong have to show them four samples before they are considered qualified. The Hong Kong reporter who was traveling with me asked Boss Yang about many of the factors that make his store successful, and he simply answered: "It's easy to do it well once, but it's a little harder to do it the same way for decades. After asking and asking, I still haven't asked about the system for greeting guests.I pointed out: "I've been to so many restaurants and haven't seen this set of knowledge. It's almost possible to teach classes. Everyone can come to the store to see it." Outside our shop at the intersection of Yongkang Street, Section 2, Xinyi Road, Taipei, there is always a long queue, which is already a phenomenon in this city. The average dining time for customers is 40 minutes, how to make full use of it to make more rounds? First, get the menu into the hands of the customers in line, give them a careful study, and then place an order. The order is immediately transmitted to the counter by the maids wearing radio microphones, and entered into the computer.Even the seats are arranged, from ordering and serving to checkout, all the information is collected in one go .According to Boss Yang: "The average error rate is less than one percent." As soon as I sat down, I saw the instructions on the wall for the staff: "General service should be done, the customer will arrive as soon as the call is made, the customer will see it with the wave of the hand, and the customer will know it when he moves. Always pay attention to it and do it diligently. The perfect state can be achieved." achieve." The guest knows it as soon as he moves, and the implication is that he knows that he will pay the bill. It's easy to say, but can it be done? At least I haven't seen it in Hong Kong, but at "Din Tai Fung" in Taipei, it has indeed been done. "Did you give them a lot of money?" the guest asked Boss Yang. He smiled and didn't answer.When there are more customers, the overtime fee is of course enough, and at the same time, care for the employees is added, right? The reporters in Hong Kong sighed and said to me: "Have you seen that all the waiters are smiling from the bottom of their hearts?" The ubiquitous supervisor Juanjuan also has something to do with it. She is a strong general, she can see everything clearly, and she guides meticulously. This kind of talent is "master control" in a restaurant. If her fate is arranged in the political arena, she must be a ministerial figure up. McDonald's is booming too, but is the food good? I don't know. The steamed buns of "Din Tai Fung" are really good. Taiwanese people say that the price is expensive, but we don't think it's only about 20 Hong Kong dollars per basket. "How much does the three branches in Japan sell?" I asked. "One and a half times that of Taiwan." Boss Yang said. In the past, I only ordered Xiao Long Bao, Shrimp Shaomai, and Original Chicken Soup. This time, I tried all the menus in the store, and there are: Crab Noodle Steamed Dumplings, Vegetable and Meat Steamed Dumplings, Bean Paste Xiaobao, Shrimp Steamed Dumplings, and Glutinous Meat Shaomai , Fresh Meat Zongzi, Bean Paste Zongzi, Salty and Sweet Bun, Melaleuca Oil Cake, Red Bean Muffin, Original Beef Soup, Braised Beef Soup, Hot and Sour Soup, Fried Tofu Powder, Shrimp Wonton, Vegetable and Meat Wonton, Pickled Vegetable Meat Silk noodles, pork ribs noodles, shrimp noodles, shredded pork and egg fried rice, pork ribs and egg fried rice and fried pork ribs, because it is not on Saturdays and Sundays, you can only try Xiaolongtangbao. The Xiaolongtangbao is the treasure of the whole store. It is as big as a cherry and full of juice inside. It is the most difficult to make. "The master needs to study for at least three years." Boss Yang explained. No wonder it was only available on those two days, and only during the hour from nine to ten in the morning. When you come to Taipei, if you don't go to "Din Tai Fung", you haven't been there, especially for breakfast.The lunch and dinner time is full during business trips. When it comes to breakfast, all Taipei friends or business dialogues must recommend going there. My friend Alba Li took his youngest daughter to Taipei for three days, discussing business affairs and taking a vacation at the same time.Booked three breakfast appointments, same place each day. The younger daughter complained: "Dad, next time I come, I will definitely not go to Din Tai Fung." When I was young, I went to Japan with a middle school classmate named Su Jinwen. After I stayed in Tokyo, he went to Aomori and worked as an intern at a local TV station.During the summer vacation he came Tokyo, has been mentioning to me the apples in Aomori and its Dolphin Lantern Festival. I really want to go, but I have no chance.Unexpectedly, it will be more than 30 years after this time. This time I was exploring a new route for the tour group, so I was lucky to see Aomori. It takes two hours to fly from Osaka to a domestic plane. When I was waiting for my luggage at Aomori Airport, I saw a huge slideshow of more than a hundred men and women, all naked, facing the camera and soaking in hot springs at the same time. The words of the advertisement There are four characters of "Thousand People's Bath" written on it. I immediately pointed at the picture and yelled. The friends who received us were like coaxing children: "Today is too late, go to Asamushi Hot Spring first. I will take you there tomorrow." "Asamushi? That's a weird name." I said. There are no worms in the Asamushi area. It is a small town near the sea. It is rich in scallops. It is dried in the sun and it is Jiang Yaozhu, which is the freshest when eaten raw.Stay in the best "Sea Fan Court" hotel in Yee District. The dinner is served with a scallop feast. There are various ways to eat it. Add a piece of fish, and you will be too full to move. Facing the sea of ​​people, there is a personal pool on the top floor, and the scenery is beautiful.There is a so-called open-air bath outside the bathroom, but it is covered by a roof.I complained to the hotel manager: "Why is it not a real dew?" "We have a lot of hard snow here." The manager explained, "There is no roof to block If it is blocked, the hot springs will become cold springs. " Hong Kong people don't know the smell of spring water. They think that the smell of sulfur is the hot spring. In fact, the real high-grade spring water should not have any smell at all. The next day, Shanfa realized that what the hotel manager said was right.Strong wind and heavy snow, now it is Ermen, Bu Xun, the snow accumulated on both sides of the road is as high as ten people, which is worse than Hokkaido Square. The road is heading towards the "Thousand People's Bath" Hotel in Shenzhong. The snow is getting more and more people, and it is white. The car is running at a high speed, which is as exciting as passing a car. Finally, it arrives at the "Sour no Yu" hotel. I told the counter that I would like to see it, but the manager replied no, I had to take off all my clothes; ding.Do as the Romans do, that is, get rid of the light, and walk into the bathroom that asks: 3,000 square feet.A hazy vapor, nothing to see.Holding the handle of the stairs carefully, he walked to the Chiguang Baptist Factory and entered.There is a strong sulfur smell. Although it is not a high-quality spring water, it seems to be particularly beneficial to the body. Hong Kong people must be happy to come to the factory. Like in the dark night, when the eyes get used to seeing things.There are hot pools, cold pools, hot and cold quarter pools, and water column pools in the bathroom.Women are not only old ladies, but also the curves of young women. The hotel manager said to me before: "Sometimes a large group of women comes, and the men are too scared to go in. No confidence!" Thinking of the photo I saw at the airport, I must have done something to lower the temperature of the water, otherwise I couldn’t take the photo. It is said that soaking it for ten days in a row can cure all diseases.This hotel is very civilian, you can go to the kitchen to cook for yourself.When there is no snow, there are various wild vegetables such as mushroom stalks, cycads, quilt grass, weed, fern, etc., and it is fun to pick them for self-cooking. The tour group I will bring doesn't have so much time to do it myself, so I plan to stay at the nearby "Hakko Mountain Hotel, and go to the "Senren Bath" to soak in the hot springs. Comfortable, you can eat Aomori's local cuisine at night. There is a big dog at the entrance of the hotel. I think the name of the hotel is hard to remember, so I just call it a dog hotel. In the last night, I stayed in a hotel called "Kinsui", which is the first-class hotel in Aomori. When I entered the door, I saw the ceramic panel murals designed by famous artists.But the locals explained that the largest pool made of juniper wood is only this big.The Japanese attach great importance to the smell of cypress, and some even think that rotten cypress is more fragrant. We are afraid to see moldy wooden ponds, and they are treasures.Fortunately, the cypress pool in "Jin Shui" is very new, and there is no problem with Qianqian's cleanliness. The dinner is rich, and there is a raw grilled whole abalone, which will definitely meet the requirements of the group members. Although the food is good, the hot springs and hotels are not as good as the "Millions of Stones" I took you to Kanazawa, the one in Arima, or the "Eight Views" in Yuhara. So what are you going to do in Aomori? The main purpose, of course, is to eat apples. Aomori apples are the most delicious in Japan, and the highest grade is called "Fuji".There are also many varieties of Fuji, and the best one is produced in "Hirosaki".When we go to the apple orchard there, we have to wait until mid-November, when the apples are the most ripe, to pick them. During this trip, I found a fruit farmer who asked to print the five words "Cai Lan sighs the world" on the apples, with yellow characters and red background.Last time I also tried to ask Su Meilu to draw my appearance, but the effect was not good, so I still use words to make it clear. The young man who sold apples won many awards. He advised: "Although the Fuji variety is sweet, it is not as bright red as the Mutsu variety. Anyway, keep it as a souvenir. Whether it is sour or not is not a problem. When you go to the apple orchard to pick it, just arrange for Fuji." " I made a deal with him that we can eat as much as we want in the garden, and each of us can bring ten of the biggest ones back to Hong Kong. The fruit grower nodded in agreement. The country people are very hospitable and treat us with homemade apple juice. "This was made in mid-November last year, and the sour taste has all evaporated." Clear and sweet, it is the best drink I have ever tasted in my life.Just for this juice, it is worth going all the way to Aomori People who love life must get up early, like birds, and their reward is a delicious and rich breakfast. What is good? Very subjective.Whatever you ate as a child is the best.Soy milk fritters are not my favorite, so I can only eat them occasionally.Because I am a southerner, porridge is not my favorite.My nanny told me since I was a child: "If you want to eat, eat, you can't get enough porridge. The nanny grew up in the countryside, and she seldom had a full meal back then.From then on, my impression of breakfast must be full.Later, I did film work and went out on location with the brigade. At one o'clock, the whole person is hungry and faint, and I have developed a habit. Breakfast is the most important food in my life.When eating, many people don't like to sit on the table with me. I order too much food, which makes them look sideways.A breakfast in my mind includes eight kinds of dim sum: shrimp dumplings, siu mai, chicken sticks, radishes, cakes, rice rolls, dace balls, vermicelli, barbecued pork buns and a cup of pork ribs rice, all eaten by one person.Occasionally come to four pairs of steaming, and often fill two pots of thick Pu'er. In Hong Kong, there used to be a lot of choices for breakfast. After life improved, everyone got up late, and there were fewer and fewer places to go.The representative one is "Lu Yu Tea House" in Central. Drinking tea always has such a high standard and has always been so expensive; "Sheng Kee" in Sheung Wan eats porridge, and the mix of ingredients is endless. It is not like eating porridge, but like a big meal , the price is very reasonable. On the third floor of the Kowloon City Market, you can order some from each stall, and then chop some freshly roasted roast meat and freshly cooked rice from other places.Friends have eaten it, and they all say it's not breakfast, but a feast of food.Take Hong Kong as the center point, draw a circle, and Guangzhou is two hours away. The tea at the "White Swan Hotel" is first-class, and the siu mai made can be seen with grains of meat, which are not ground out by machines.In Taipei, it is the Chezi noodles on the street. Four hours away, you can eat nasi lemak made by Malays in Singapore, which is very delicious.Bak Kut Teh in the small town of Bari near Kuala Lumpur, I ate it once and became addicted ever since.The typical Japanese breakfast also eats white rice, a piece of grilled salmon, and a bowl of miso soup, which is not rich.I would rather go to "Yoshinoya" which is open 24 hours to eat a big bowl of beef well.In Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market, you can eat "Inoue" ramen and "Daishou" sashimi.The old man in the small shop was drinking, looking at his watch, it was past five o'clock in the morning, and I asked, "Hey, old man, are you drinking early in the morning?" Just drink? Life time is different, habits are different.My breakfast is his supper. People who love to drink are happiest eating breakfast in South Korea. They have a kind of "intestinal juice". They boil the pig's offal for seven or eight hours, add it to rice and eat it, and the hangover will be cured immediately by it. There is also a kind of Milk The white one is called "Snow Thick Soup", which is especially warm to the stomach in cold weather. Draw the circle bigger, the most boring thing in Europe is the "continental breakfast" served by the hotel, a piece of bread, tea or coffee, that's all, go out! When you arrive at the vegetable market, you must find exotic goods;. Ask the service department of the hotel to take the address of the local vegetable market, jump on the taxi, and the destination is reached.In Budapest's vegetable market, you can buy a huge sausage, and there are more than a dozen choices of mustard on the hawker stalls, wrapped in newspaper, and eaten while walking; you can also buy a big and sweet bell pepper as fruit , which add up to only one dollar. New York's "Fulton" vegetable market sells freshly fried fresh shrimp, which is definitely not inferior to Japanese tempura, much better than eating "American breakfast".Unlike the "Continental Breakfast", it just adds a scrambled egg, which is the most delicious.Of course, New York is like Europe, not the United States, so it has this kind of enjoyment.The place that sells only scrambled eggs and bread, would rather hide in the hotel room and eat a bowl of instant noodles. Back home, because I am a noodle addict, if I don’t go out for a week, I can make seven kinds of pasta for breakfast.On Monday, the most common wonton noodles, I bought a few balls of silver egg noodles the day before, and then some wonton skins, wrapped the wontons with my own choice of ingredients, eaten with plain noodles, and then cooked a plate of oyster sauce with cabbage heart . On Tuesday, Hokkien fried noodles are fried with thick yellow oil noodles, added with a large amount of soup and simmered, one side is fried and the other side is sprinkled with ground fish powder, and black soy sauce is added. On Wednesday, dry-boil the Yi noodles. The Yi noodles should be drained first and set aside. Fry a side dish that you like, but leave a lot of vegetable juice for the Yi noodles to absorb. On Thursday, pork knuckle lo mein, a pot of pork knuckle was braised the night before, it is best to boil until the skin and meat are poor Then a little bit will be off the bone, and then use a lot of thick sauce to scoop up the noodles. On Friday, Thai-style "Ma Noodles" on the street, buy Thai thin noodles and add various ingredients, fish cake slices, fish eggs, fried wontons with barbecued pork, minced meat, topped with a lot of fish sauce and minced chili Of.On Saturdays, let’s simply have shrimp paste noodles, sauté minced meat with black noodle sauce, cut cucumber into strips and mix with it. Biting green onions while eating noodles. On Sunday, put all the leftover raw materials in the refrigerator into the pot and heat them like a side stove, then add the noodles. One of the most impressive breakfasts was arranged for me by the "Golden Bay Hotel" in Shantou. I went to the vegetable market to buy small, salty, sour and sweet congee from Huzhou people. yell. Second, in the hotel in Kunming, Yunnan, there is a long table with all kinds of wild mushrooms bought in the vegetable market that morning, and the soup base is boiled with Shan Rui, and the mushrooms are cooked and eaten immediately. The last bowl The soup is extremely sweet. Third, in Saigon before the fall, a businessman invited me to a basement where the best caviar and champagne in the world were placed.Lobster stuffed with sausage.The long-haired beautiful waiter was flying all over the sky with her naked body, and the gunfire outside was endless. It was a breakfast that could never be repeated in this lifetime. Chatting with Zhen Wenda that day, he said that there are more than 700 TV shows on chef cooking all over the world. His own name is "Zhen Neng Cooking". Whether you agree with it or not, it is also a hot commodity that can sell copyrights to many countries. The audience is impressed by his vegetable chopping skills. There are also programs such as "Two Fat Women", "Gourmet on Horseback" and "Preparation, Watching, and Cooking" that are world-renowned. Japan's "Iron Man of Cooking" is also doing very well. Some programs are host cooking, some just introduce restaurants.All programs related to cooking are very popular. The audience likes to eat. If they can’t eat it, it’s better to watch it. It’s more interesting than those talking about politics. Cooking books have also become a big business. If you go to a big bookstore, there are several cabinets filled with cooking books from various countries, beautifully printed.Some people bought it back to decorate their kitchen and never looked at it.The strange thing is that none of the dishes shot on TV or books are hot, absolutely watching Less than smoke. Hot food can be appetizing, but the photographer or editor never notices it, leaving readers and viewers with a chilly feeling. This is related to the shooting process, and the hot dishes are often fried and put on the table.The photographer lights up the lights on the left and lights on the right, then wipes the sides of the dishes, organizes the decorations next to the dishes, adds a few reflectors to the background, etc., when they are ready, the dishes are cold, where is the smoke coming from? Woolen cloth? When I ask for a photo shoot, to capture the "hot" atmosphere, some photographers are stupid enough to ask everyone around them to smoke cigarettes and spray it into the food, thinking that by doing so they will be able to see the smoke. This method will not work, the smoke from cigarettes or cigars is very thin, and it will disperse all at once, causing everyone to suffer from lung cancer, and it is impossible to take a good photo. My experience tells me that several steps are required to achieve this effect: first, the background cannot use a reflector, and should be mainly black and other dark colors; Modification; third, if you add it, you can only use dry ice, the smoke of dry ice is not easy to disperse.Take a tea filter, fill it with dry ice, add water, create a lot of smoke and put it on the food immediately, and you can only see it when you shoot it; fourth, of course, you can add computer effects when making the plate, but this method is unnatural , very easy to wear The photographer's sensibility is also very important, the most basic condition is that he also loves to eat.People who are not interested in food are doomed to fail. Not to mention the use of negative film. I saw that many food photographers in mainland China took a long time to press the shutter in isolation. It is impossible to take good photos.Negative film is the thing that should be wasted the most, capture that With a good photographer, you also need the cooperation of a good editor.Usually the food in the original size is the most attractive, but for the sake of space, the editor usually chooses to include even the dishes in the photo, and the dishes are shrunk so small that it seems unreal.Exaggeration should be exaggerated. I have seen a photo of "Yung Kee" preserved egg, which is as big as abalone and fills the screen. The candy inside is about to flow out. How can it be bad? The text on the recipe, what I object to the most is how many teaspoons, how many tablespoons, how many grams and how many cups of water to use, etc.Can't it be replaced by words such as a handful, a large number, or a piece and appropriate? The editors also explained: This is written for beginner readers, so it must be explained in this way! Is there anything in the world that has to be one way or another? Breaking the stereotypes is the only way to do it. Unlike books, TV diet programs can easily show the effect of smoke, but most of them wait until it is cold before filming.It's no wonder that most of the staff are very young and have not yet reached the level of loving food.What they are good at is to swing the camera from side to side, thinking that this way the dishes will be alive, and the audience will be dazzled, very naive. There is tension when there is competition. "Iron Man of Cooking" wins at this point.This show is now broadcast in the United States and is very popular, but there was also an American cook who lost the competition and sued the producer for being a horse. Although the foreign masters are telling people, they are willing to participate. It is difficult to move this kind of program to China. Of course, all the chefs of big restaurants are willing to participate, but if they participate, they will win, and if they lose, they will lose face.What should we do if the guests refuse to come in the future? Chinese people have never spoken the word "convinced". In cooking competition shows, the position of judges is very important.Invite a bouncing idol singer Trying to eat something, praising something before it tastes is also a big failure. The real food critics are ugly and articulate, which is also a problem.Fairness is a bigger problem.Like "Iron Man of Cooking", when I was judging, the producer once hinted that Iron Man won, so I don't care so much, but in the Japanese entertainment industry, big organizations can't be offended, other judgments are just; Obedient.How to take amazing cooking photos is a big question.At least, also have to be "delicious. Take two words out.The bad thing is that this is rarely done in general programs, especially the demonstration of western food: take a flat-bottomed wok, add a lot of olive oil, roast a bell pepper and then slowly dice it with a knife, put it together with other ingredients Put it into the wok, take a spoon and cook it slowly, and cook a dish for a long time, even looking at it is disgusting. To do any kind of learning, you have to read a lot.Producers of many cookbooks and TV shows don't refer to outside sources, so they don't look good.It is only the beginning to align all kinds of related things in the world, get rid of the shortcomings, and absorb the good ones.Of course, it must not be forgotten: cooking is fun and a little sense of humor is most important.What's interesting is that there is a lot of oil, salt and monosodium glutamate, which will eat people to death. A bowl of beef hor fun made by the Vietnamese is indispensable for all the delicacies in the world. They call it pho.Delicious beef river, take a sip of soup with a spoon, drink imported, addicted from now on, a lifetime Everyone in the world wants to pursue this kind of taste.This statement is not an exaggeration at all. The first time I tasted Beef River was when I traveled to Vietnam decades ago. I sat in an open-air restaurant and looked at the long embankment. But it also has trousers, which are also silk.The whole body is wrapped like a rice dumpling, and the skin is not exposed at all. However, when the breeze blows, the fabric sticks tightly to their bodies.At this time, you will think that they are completely naked, and every inch of flesh on their bodies can be seen clearly, which is extremely attractive. The bowl of beef river in front of him is just cooked raw beef, the color is like the pink of a girl's lips.Hor fun is made of pure white rice, like the cheongsam they wear, silky and snowy. Drink this soup again, like a wonderful love, has reached its climax. From now on, as soon as I pass by a Vietnamese restaurant, I will enter the food test and order a bowl of beef river to see if I can relive the old dream? Disappointment again and again, why? After the war, even this most basic food was lost, and it was imitated everywhere.Inferior taste, depressing. In elementary school, I said that the land in Vietnam is the most fertile.In the world, only Vietnam's rice is harvested four times a year.Today, Vietnam itself also relies on foreign imports. A friend in the timber business bought a local high-ranking officer and bought a piece of woods, thinking that he would prosper from now on. Unexpectedly, the trees he transported damaged the chainsaw because the wood was full of bullets shot in during the war. head. Without further ado, where on earth can you find a decent bowl of Vietnamese beef river? Can you cook it yourself? Open the cookbook and teach you the following methods: Ingredients: 6 liang of beef, 12 liang of rice noodles, 2 liang of bean sprouts, 1 liang of carrot!Soup ingredients: 1 catty each of beef brisket and beef bone, 2 lemongrass, 2 onions, 2 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon of peppercorns, 12 cups of water. Seasoning: appropriate amount of salt and fish sauce Marinade: 2 teaspoons of fish sauce, half teaspoon of cornstarch, a little each of sesame oil and pepper. Method: 1. Rinse the beef bones and breasts with flying water, then put them in a clay pot, and add 12 cups of water.Put the lemongrass, onion and peppercorns into the pot and bring it to a boil. Don’t let the soup bubble up when you see it.fall again Boil for six hours, remove the soup dregs and add seasonings to make beef soup. Cut the beef into thin slices, add the marinade and mix well, wash the bean sprouts and drain. Put the silver sprouts on the bottom of the bowl first, take an appropriate amount of rice noodles and put them on top of the bean sprouts, cook the beef until it is just cooked and put it on the rice noodles, pour over the boiling beef broth, sprinkle with red radish, shredded and green onions and serve. Completely farting, ignorant, looking at this kind of recipe will only kill people, absolutely can't make a bowl of something that is not even decent. Beef river is like dan dan noodles, each family has its own method, from snacks to adults, only the experience to make a bowl of similar things.Foreigners have tried the factory a few times, and they want to be a chef, stop dreaming! In addition, many people think that what can be done in the store, why can't it be reproduced at home? This concept is extremely wrong.Hawker food is absolutely impossible to make at home, because there must be insufficient soup for three or four bowls of food. The hot soup in the store only uses a huge bucket, dozens of catties of meat, dozens of catties of bones, and the sweetness is square. It must be done every day, every month, and every year. Only the accumulated experience can be mastered.Forget it, give up! Surrender! When I returned to Vietnam, I found the small shop from decades ago. I ate it all but tasted bad. I ate all over South Vietnam and North Vietnam, but there was no decent bowl. Pursuing Vietnamese noodles is a painstaking process, and the only way to find them is overseas.Post-war Vietnamese, wealthy immigrants to France, can be found in a few fine Vietnamese restaurants in central Paris, but not plebeian.They are not monopoly fans, of course, not very authentic.There are many pho shops in the 13th district, and I am not satisfied with eating them. Poorer Vietnamese immigrated to Australia.The search for the perfect Pho has come to an end, yes A restaurant called "Yong Kee" is in Melbourne. The proprietress is over forty years old, she still has charm, and she sits in the store.She laughed when I asked that there were only boiled beef bones and beef in the soup: "The beef bones are so fishy, ​​how can I drink them?" It only told me that chicken bones were added, but I suspected that there were also fish bones, which were completely rotten and could no longer be seen. I ran into the kitchen and saw a large amount of beef hanging to cool.A large vat of soup has been boiled for so long, but it is still clear. I believe I will not see the reason even if I look at it for a hundred years. Not only the beef brisket, but almost the whole beef can be eaten. The menu says the combination of beef tendon, beef bones, beef balls, bullwhip, etc., even the blood of the beef.The beef blood sold in the store is made by boiling the hottest soup. The blood of the beef turns into a soft individual. The soup is very fresh, and the blood is of course much more delicious than tofu. The store is packed with customers from morning to night, and even the Prime Minister of Australia has to wait for a table.Tasting the delicacy of decades ago, satisfying, people are getting old. In my life, my favorite food, besides bean sprouts, is eggs.Always in pursuit of a perfect egg. However, I am afraid of egg yolk.There is a reason for this. On the birthday of a child, it is a tradition for my mother to boil an egg and soak the shell with red paper to dye the shell red.Back then, having an egg to eat was already the highest enjoyment.I eat egg whites, and when I was about to eat egg yolks, the alarm sounded and the Japanese came to bomb me. My parents hurriedly dragged me to the air-raid shelter. I was reluctant to drop the egg yolk, so I grabbed it with one hand and swallowed it down my throat. I choked and almost choked to death. , so when I grow up, I am afraid to see the egg yolk. As long as the original shape is not visible, it doesn't matter. I don't mind the smashed egg yolk at all. I eat it as it is, like scrambled eggs.When it comes to scrambled eggs, our Cai family’s method is as follows: Use a large iron wok, add oil, wait until the oil is hot enough to smoke, then pour the fermented eggs into it.The pepper powder was added when the eggs were beaten beforehand, and there was no time to sprinkle it when frying.When the eggs are put into the oil wok, stir them immediately. Add a few drops of fish sauce, and you have to raise the whole wok away from the flame, otherwise it will be old.Don't be afraid to return the eggs Unfried, because the heat of the iron wok will complete the work. At this time, the fried eggs will emit fragrance, and no other ingredients are needed. Caijia egg porridge is not bad either. First boil the water, remove a handful of washed dried shrimps to make a soup base, and then put a bowl of cold rice to cook. At this time, add ingredients, such as fish slices, bacon slices, and pork slices.Shredded pork neck can also be used instead.Or what’s in the fridge.将芥兰切丝，丢人粥中，最后加三个蛋，搅成糊状，即成。上桌前滴鱼露、撒胡椒、添天津冬菜，最后加炸香的干红葱片或干蒜茸。 有时煎一个简单的荷包蛋，也见功力。和成龙一块在西班牙拍戏时，他说他会煎蛋。下油之后，即刻放蛋，马上知道他做的一定不好吃。油未热就下蛋，蛋白一定又硬又老。 煎荷包蛋，功夫愈细愈好泰国街边小贩用炭炉慢慢煎，煎得蛋白四周围发着带焦的小泡，最香了。生活节奏快的都市，都做不到。香港有家叫"三元楼"的，自己农场养鸡生蛋，专选双仁的大蛋来煎，也很没特别。成龙的父亲做的茶叶蛋是一流的5他一煮一大锅，至少有四五十粒，才够我们一群饿鬼吃。茶叶。香料都下得足，酒是用白兰地，以本伤人。我学了他那一套，到非洲拍饮食电视节目时，当场表演，用的是巨大的鸵鸟蛋，敲碎的蛋壳造成的花纹，像一个花瓶。 到外国旅行，酒店的早餐也少不；了蛋，但是多数是无味的。饲养鸡，本来一天生一个蛋，但急功近利，把鸡也给骗了。开了灯当白天，关了当晚上，六小时各一次，一天当两天，让鸡生二次。你说怎会好吃?不管他 们的炒蛋或者奄列，味道都淡出鸟来。解决办法，唯有自备一包小酱油，吃外卖寿司配上的那一种，滴上几滴，尚能人喉。更好的，是带一瓶小瓶的生抽，台湾制造的民生牌壶底油精为上选，它带甜味，任何劣等鸡蛋都能变成绝顶美食。 走地鸡的新鲜鸡蛋已罕见，小时听到鸡咯咯一叫，妈妈就把蛋拾起来送到我手中，摸起来还是温暖的，敲一个小洞吸噬之。现在想起，那股味道有点恐怖，当年怎么吃得那么津津有味?因为穷吧。穷也有穷的乐趣。热腾腾的白饭，淋上猪油，打一个生鸡蛋，也是绝品。但当今生鸡蛋不知有没有细菌，看日本人早餐时还是用这种吃法，有点心寒。 鹌鹑蛋虽说胆固醇最高，也好吃，香港陆羽茶楼做的点心鹌鹑蛋烧卖，很美味。鸽子蛋煮熟之后蛋白呈半透明，味道也特别好。 由鸭蛋变化出来的咸蛋，要吃就吃蛋黄流出油的那种。我虽然不喜蛋黄，但咸蛋的能接受。放进月饼里，又甜又咸，很难顶，留给别人吃吧。至于皮蛋，则非糖心不可。香港镛记的皮蛋，个个糖心，配上甜酸姜片，一流也。 上海人吃熏蛋，蛋白硬，蛋黄还是流质。我不太爱吃，只取蛋白时，蛋黄黏住，感觉不好。 台湾人的铁蛋，让年轻人去吃，我咬不动。不过他们做的卤蛋简直是绝了。吃卤肉饭、担仔面时没有那半边卤蛋，逊色得多。 鱼翅不稀奇，桂花翅倒是百食不厌，无他，有鸡蛋嘛。炒桂花翅却不 如吃假翅的粉丝。 蔡家桂花翅的秘方是把豆芽浸在盐水里，要浸个半小时以上。下猪油，炒豆芽，兜两下，只有五成熟就要离镬。这时把拆好的螃蟹肉、发过的江瑶柱和粉丝炒一炒，打鸡蛋进去，蘸酒、鱼露，再倒人芽菜，即上桌，又是一道好菜，但并非完美。 去南部里昂，找到法国当代最著名的厨师保罗鲍古斯，要他表演烧菜拍电视。他已七老八十，久未下厨，向我说："看老友份上，今天破例。好吧，你要我煮什么?" "替我弄一个完美的蛋。"我说。 保罗抓抓头皮："从来没有人这么要求过我。" 说完，他在架子上拿了一个平底的瓷碟，不大，放咖啡杯的那种。滴上几滴橄榄油，用一枝铁夹子挟着碟，放在火炉上烤，等油热了才下蛋，这一点中西一样。打开蛋壳，分蛋黄和蛋白，蛋黄先下入碟中，略熟，再下蛋白。撤点盐，撒点西洋芫荽碎，把碟子从火炉中拿开，即成。 保罗解释：。蛋黄难熟，蛋白易熟，!看熟到什么程度，就可以离火了。鸡蛋生熟的喜好，世界上每一个人都不同，只有用这个方法，才能弄出你心目中最完美的蛋。 " 炒饭的一卜乙术 有身份不必自炊的人、对厨艺一点兴趣也没有的人，请不必看下去。这篇东西读了无益。 通常自己弄几味菜，要是不会炒炒饭的话，真应该打屁股。 炒饭，是烹调之中最基本的一道菜，但是要炒一碟能称上好吃的，最难。 什么叫做好吃和不好吃呢?看一眼即知。 先把蛋煎熟了，再混入饭中的，已经不及格，因为把这两种东西一分开，就不够香了。 炒饭的最高境界在于炒得蛋包住米粒，呈金黄，才能叫得上是炒饭。要达到这个效果，先得下油，待热得冒烟，倒人隔夜饭，炒至米粒在镬中跳跃，才打蛋进去。 蛋不能事先发好，要整个下，再以镬铲搞之，就能达到蛋包饭的效果， 给蛋白包住的呈银，蛋黄呈金。两者混杂，煞是好看。 为什么要用隔夜饭?米粒冷却之后才能分开，刚炊熟的藕成一团，不容易粒粒都照顾得到。 至于用什么米来炊呢?蓬莱米和日本米虽然肥肥胖胖，但黏性极强，不是上选，普通米最佳，泰国香米是我最喜欢用的材料。 配料应该是雪柜里有什么就用什么了，不必苛求。爆香小红葱，广东人叫干葱的，已很不错，用洋葱来代替也行，不过要切粒，爆至微焦才甜。基本上所有的配料都应切粒，只能大过米粒两三倍，才不喧宾夺主。加上一条切粒腊肠，炒饭即起变化，腊肠是炒饭的最佳拍挡。 有点虾更好，冷冻的固佳，但新鲜游水虾白灼之后，切粒炒之是正途。绝对不能用养殖的，养虾已不是虾，是发泡胶。 金华火腿切粒也是好配料，但先得蒸熟。随便一点，用西洋培根代替，爆脆后放在一边待用。没有这两种，也可用叉烧粒人饭。 日本人中华料理炒饭，喜欢加荷兰豆，一粒粒圆圆绿绿的，扮相好，但味道差。蔬菜之中和炒饭搭配得最好的是芥兰，将芥兰秆切片，叶子切丝炒之。夏日季节中，用芥菜好了，芥菜任何时候吃都美味，蔬菜不甜的带点苦，更似人生。 豪华奢侈起来，可用螃蟹肉来代替鲜虾，蒸好螃蟹拆开备用。蒸时在水中下点醋，熟了也不会酸，但拆肉就容易得多。当然，以大闸蟹的膏来炒，美妙得很。 再追求下去，用云丹来炒，更上一层楼，吃铁板烧的时候，最后大师傅一定来碟炒饭，这时请他来一盒海胆，嗖的一声铺在饭上，兜几下，即成。 调味方面，材料丰富的话撒点盐就是。但是单单的一味小红葱炒饭，就要借助鱼露了，鱼露带腥，可避寡，能有起死回生的作用。 喜欢蚝油和大量味精的师傅，最要不得。如果要用蚝油，就宁愿取虾膏了。虾膏分两种，干的一块块的和湿的瓶装，前者切成薄片后先用油爆，再以镬铲压碎，混入饭中。后者舀一两茶匙在炒饭上，虾膏永远惹味，可用它取巧。 上桌之前撒不撒胡椒?就要看你好不好此物，我下胡椒是在把蛋包在米粒的阶段中。 炒饭也不能死守一法，太单调，便失去乐趣，我虽然很反对所谓的混合料理 ，但是求变化时，在炒饭的上碟阶段加入伊朗鱼子酱。也是一招。法国鹅肝酱则不好用，它太湿了。要煎过之后用镬铲切粒才行。而且得选最好的，不然吃起来总有一股异味，从此对鹅肚酱印象极差，以为都是难吃，那么人生又要少丫一种味觉了。 以龙虾肉宋代替鲜虾也是一种想法，不能采用澳洲龙虾或波士顿的。南中国海的龙虾，肉质才不粗糙。 香菰浸水后切粒炒饭也是好吃，但如果把菌类派上用场，那么也有法国黑松露菌和意大利白菌的选择。 粤人有一道姜茸炒饭的。一般是把姜切成碎粒，油爆之。这种方法怎么爆也爆不出姜香来，姜茸炒饭的秘诀在于把姜磨碎之后，包布挤出汁来，而姜汁弃之，只釆姜渣，混入米饭中炒，才够香味。 昨日在菜市场看到新鲜的荷叶，要回来烧一姜茸炒饭，置于荷叶之上。又逢黄油蟹当造，买了一只，用洗牙齿的 喷水器把螃蟹腿上的腋下处喷个干净，再以清水喂一天，冲净肠胃，把螃蟹摆在姜茸炒饭上，荷叶包裹，蒸三十分钟，取出，剪开，香气迫人来。 高贵的材料都属险招，偶尔使之以补厨艺的不精是可以接受的。一吃多了就腻，反效果的。 返回炒饭的精神：是种最简单的充饥烹调。 但是千万要记住的是用猪油来炒，其他什么粟米油、花生油、橄榄油，都不能烧出一碟好炒饭。熳完猪油后的猪油渣，已是炒饭的最佳配料。什么?用猪油?不怕胆固醇吗?小朋友问。 任何东西偶一食之，总可放心。而且，大家都知道胆固醇有好的和坏的。 别人吃的，都是坏的；我们吃的，都是好的。