Chapter 7 Writing Foodism-5

A few years ago, in view of the unscientific and unbalanced eating habits of the Chinese people, the nutritional circles shouted out such a slogan: "Children who eat fish are smarter, ladies who eat fish are more beautiful, men who eat fish are stronger, and men who eat fish are stronger. The nation is more prosperous." Fish can do what I want, smart, beautiful and strong, and I can do what I want, but raising the level of eating fish to the level of national prosperity will be too much for both humans and fish.This theory is likely to be based on the experience of Japan.Most Japanese in the world love fish most, but this is basically a matter of habit and resources.Ordinary people are basically inseparable from seaweed and rice, and it is not men, women, old and young who stick to the belief of national prosperity and eat fish there every day.And on the food list of most continental European countries, fishy food will never lose to meaty food.The British have a soft spot for "Fish & chips", but from the perspective of popular nutrition, after the fish is deep-fried, the "prosperity" elements contained in this kind of thing called "Fish & Chips" in Chinese have long been recognized. It was fried to pieces.After three generations of research, only the Nordics have inherited the habit of eating raw fish from the Viking tradition. However, whether the nation is prosperous because of this is still insufficient evidence, but it is true that women are beautiful.As for the food in the United States, let’s not mention it, and in my opinion, the most “prosperous” nation in the United States is our Chinese compatriots.

Whether the "fish-eating movement" has changed our nation is of course not to jump to conclusions, but the accelerated depletion of offshore fishery resources and the increasing "prosperity" of seafood prices are facts for all to see in recent years.Take the large yellow croaker, which is so common in the southeast coast, as an example. It used to be a cheap fish with a few yuan per catty, but now it has soared more than 300 yuan per catty in the market, and it is hard to come by.In Shanghai Meilong Town Restaurant, I ate a large yellow croaker worth nearly a thousand yuan. The croaker was frozen hard, but under the supervision of the manager, the head chef brought it up for everyone to verify , It is really a sin.

In this way, we are not eating fish, but being eaten by fish.Of course, if one day the fish eat up all our stupid thoughts, it might really help the further prosperity of our nation. There is a survey report abroad that green is the first color that is pleasant and appetizing, followed by yellow, orange, red, and white.Although I don't know whether the effective sample under investigation includes a certain proportion of people of color, it still makes sense on the whole, such as green thinks of fresh vegetables, orange thinks of fruit, red thinks of beef, yellow thinks of corn and butter ( It is normal to think of McDonald's), and white thinks of rice, bread, milk, etc.

Given the recent bad reputation of some ranking events in China, the above report also seems boring.In fact, the so-called appetite-enhancing colors are all colors that conform to the eater's expectation and imagination of the color of the food to be eaten.In other words, green rice is unpleasant.Pleasant food should be natural and active, just like raw vegetables, at most it can only be half-pushed, such as the interactive result of cooking, and should not be raped by dyeing agents. The obsession with a particular color also has the violent quality of dye.In the past few years, green food was in power, and the public opinion was so fierce that people felt that they had never eaten green vegetables since they were born.This question has not yet been figured out, but the mainstream discourse in the food industry has turned from green to black.According to nutritionists, the nutrition of natural foods is closely related to their colors, and the order of their nutritional value is: black is the best, followed by red, yellow and white.

The marketing strategy of "black food" is nothing more than inviting ancient Chinese doctors, such as Li Shizhen, to put it on the market; declaring that the royal family loves food, dragging the emperor into trouble; inviting foreign aid, pointing out that this matter is already in full swing in Western developed countries.There is indeed a saying in Chinese medicine that "when it is dark, it must be nourished", but there is insufficient scientific evidence, and "nourishing" and "nutrition" may not necessarily be the same concept.As for the "black-eating movement" in foreign countries, it is unheard of. Even if there is such a thing, but considering that every time the foreigners who are moved to work as "childcare" are all white, so the "every black must make up" Rather be suspicious.

However, as far as business operations are concerned, the marketing strategy of "black food" is not completely dull.The inherent mysterious power of black will make people believe that food with this color is more nourishing under the implication.In fact, black hints are everywhere, black hair is more youthful than white hair, black-label Scotch whiskey is more advanced than red-label, and even the golden color worshiped by all mankind cannot compete with black.Recently, American Express (AE) launched a "black card" (Centurion), which is equivalent to a black belt in karate.It is so "noble" that it charges an annual fee of 9,800 yuan (400 yuan for the gold card), and the rest needless to say.Police in Bucharest have discovered that prostitutes in the city use different lipstick colors to denote seniority, with black charging the highest prices, foreign reports said.Coincidentally, in a prostitution den that was cracked in Shenzhen recently, ordinary escorts were given red cards to work, while those who could provide carnal services were given black cards.

I found that "every black must be supplemented" actually only includes those with heavy color in the same kind of food, not individual black food.The latter is like cuttlefish juice. Apart from being used by the Italians to make delicious "angel hair", no one has deliberately exaggerated its nourishment.On the contrary, it is often mentioned that black fungus is better than white fungus, black rice is better than white rice, black sesame is better than white sesame, and black chicken is more nourishing than white chicken.When there is an obvious level difference in the same kind of food, the profit margin will expand accordingly.Unfortunately, it seems that the criminals who inject dark harmful chemical pigments into various light-colored foods are the first to benefit from this. What a black humor.

I don't know whether the fact that the per capita milk consumption in our country is only equivalent to a bottle of eye drops is more worthy of concern.In any case, color is the arrangement of creation, and colorful is the right way to eat. BEYOND once sang: "The beauty of colorful colors is because it does not separate each color." A Guangzhou native stuffed a ball of lettuce into his mouth contentedly on New Year’s Eve, and the sandstorm forced a Beijing native outdoors to spit out the sand in his mouth while talking.This is the "butterfly effect" between the frantic collection of Nostocs and land desertification.

The central part of Ningxia and the west of Inner Mongolia are the main producing areas of Nostocchi; the people who love to eat Notat are as far away as Guangdong, Hong Kong and the major Chinese settlements in the world that are deeply influenced by Cantonese cuisine.However, it is said that Fa Cai became a delicacy on the dining table since Chang’an in the Tang Dynasty. Therefore, today’s high-end restaurants in Xi’an have a dish imitating the Tang Dynasty “Fat Cai with Money”, which is made of “eggs” with minced chicken breast and Fa Cai as filling. ", steamed and cut into copper coins, and then poured with chicken soup."Gongxi Facai Dumplings" stuffed with fat vegetables and pork can be seen in the famous "Dumpling Banquet" in Xi'an.

Although the pronunciation of "Fat Cai" in Guanzhong dialect is much closer to "Fat Cai" than its Cantonese pronunciation, the latter's enthusiasm for Fa Cai is obviously higher.In Guangdong, Fa Cai is usually regarded as an auspicious New Year dish, which can be eaten from New Year's Eve to the Fifteenth day of the first lunar month.In terms of method, it is either Braised Pig Knuckles with Fa Cai (pronounced "Fat Choi and Good Market") or "Fat Cai Oyster and Stewed Pork" (pronounced "Fat Cai Good Market").These two New Year’s dishes are still delicious, but apart from some misty algae, the hair dishes themselves still have to borrow flavors from pork knuckle and oyster sauce, and the bite is also loose and loose, and I don’t feel extra pleasure. Instead, it’s vermicelli. Or something else, maybe tastier.Therefore, there is not much difference in essence between Fa Cai and other foods that humans love to eat because of their significance and rarity.

The large-scale collection of nostocs and the intensive trade of nostocs from the west to the southeast coast began in the early 1980s.Looking at the shape and meaning of "fa Cai", I believe that the climax of eating fat vegetables for the first time should have occurred earlier after the first batch of Chinese character simplification schemes were introduced.However, getting rich was a political taboo at the time, and fat vegetables were generally only exported to Hong Kong and Macau markets.Today, there are many shops selling hair vegetables in Hong Kong, and they are happy to use the simplified Chinese character "fa" on their signboards. Some people who insisted on eating lettuce on the first day of the new year made money, some didn’t, and some broke their fortunes. However, those who collected and distributed lettuce for them all made a fortune.The price of hair vegetables has skyrocketed from 30 yuan per catty in the 1980s to 500 yuan now (this also includes a large number of fake products made of corn ears dyed with ink).This huge increase has come at the cost of desertification or semi-desertification of more than 160 million mu of grassland in Ningxia and Inner Mongolia.The government has issued a decree to ban the trade of Fa Cai, but it has always been very difficult to control the mouth and manage it well. Therefore, I think that since Fa Cai is popular because of its shape and meaning, it is necessary to completely "stop" Fa Cai , in addition to administrative regulations, it is even more necessary to treat the person's body in the same way as the person, and break it from the form and the mind.That is to say, in the name of hair, let some nostoc eaters who read the following quotes feel disgusted first: In Akutagawa Ryunosuke's "Like a mother monkey picking lice for a baby monkey, pull them out one by one Although the old woman with long hair on the head of a dead body repeatedly argued "with a voice like a toad's murmur" that she wanted to make a wig and sell it, and that she would not starve to death in order to survive, but there were so many people starving to death everywhere. During the People's Peace Dynasty, on that rainy night when crows scrambled to peck at human corpses, do you think she told the whole truth in front of the confessor who unsheathed the steel knife and was determined to become a thief? The Japanese also eat hair vegetables. In addition to importing them from China, there is also a very similar thing produced in Okinawa. It also looks like hair, and it is more shiny. The name is even more literary and artistic, called "Shuiyun". ...Think about Sadako crawling out of the TV. The diet in Shakespeare's plays often reveals serious violent tendencies.The more prominent examples can be found in "The Revenge of the Prince" and "Mikebeth". In the third scene of the fifth act of "Titus Andronicus", there is even a bloody scene of a feast of broken corpses and human flesh. This is not all the need of the plot, because Shakespeare once said on a certain occasion: Appetite is a wolf in the heart of mankind. There is not just one wolf in the human heart, but in packs.Likewise, there is more than one way to use food against these wolves.Food is increasingly being used in the development of riot weapons for dispersing crowds.For example, pepper powder, a common condiment, has been widely used in "pepper spray" today; pepper has not been the patent of Sichuan cuisine for a long time. The classical madness of pepper water and the modern civilization of tear gas can make the air full of numbness. The taste of po tofu, the difference is only the violence and its degree of legality or not. Rather than saying that the foodization of violence helps to minimize violence, it is better to see it as a mutual ambiguity process.We can imagine that if an appropriate amount of champagne is added to the high-pressure water cannon, or the opening method of champagne is directly borrowed from the launch of the water cannon, it will undoubtedly cause great confusion to the deportees and fall into a sudden embarrassment situation. The color and taste of the celebration that the "champagne water cannon" swayed in the crowd was enough to dazzle Bakhtin.Similarly, a cake covered in Bill Gates' face or a tofu thrown at U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Glickman, on the one hand, allows the victim to make quick self-mockery than throwing a gun and dagger; Gained the opportunity to "enjoy" the lightest punishment. The American film "The Last Supper" (The Last Supper) in 1995 developed violent eating into aesthetics in the form of black comedy: five doctoral students in the same room awarded themselves a qualification: the death penalty for "impure" thinking, the method It is to start a serial killing with a Sunday dinner.When moral issues such as whether it is possible to "kill to eliminate evil" and whether a person has the right to judge the correctness of others' thoughts are discussed in depth over a sumptuous banquet, the smell of death emanating from the food makes the characters and The audience shuddered. Starvation and fasting are common punishments, and conversely, forcing a person to eat what he does not want to eat is a more severe punishment than starvation.Diet as a punishment is not inedible and unclean, but is often deliberately carried out in a normal way of eating, which is where the violence lies.Yikufan is an example.Of course, Yikufan, as a diet under a common cultural background, is still gentle compared with the cross-cultural punishment of the Premier League club Wimbledon. In the 1996-1997 season, Wimbledon issued a penalty: If a game is scored four goals or more by the opponent, the four players in the team will be forced to watch the entire production process of an opera or at the end of the season. Go to a Lebanese restaurant for a Middle Eastern meal, including raw liver, boiled camel brains and fried sheep testicles. I don't care much about Wimbledon's results - mostly the ugly jerseys and the lack of stars - so I don't follow up on reports of whether anyone actually went to that Lebanese restaurant and what happened.However, if Wimbledon buys a Middle Eastern shooter like Day, the same punishment becomes a reward in an instant. In fact, reward or punishment are essentially the same ritual, just as anorexia and overeating are two outbreaks of the same disease.It is not uncommon for the late Princess Diana to suffer from both anorexia and bulimia at the same time.Anorexia and binge eating may appear to be self-punishing, but they are also socially oppressive in nature.There is no one who does not eat, no one is not benefited, and at the same time is also subject to diet.If the violent quality of food is compared to madness, as Foucault said, it cannot be found in a wild state, but can only exist in society. McDonald's has more than 28,000 chain restaurants in 119 countries around the world, receiving 43 million customers every day.Chain operations, combined with the above three statistics, make the Golden Giant a common enemy of green groups, anarchists, and Europeans who despise American culture.Entering the 21st century, the hamburger pressure groups have gathered under a common banner -- against globalization. In China, which is about to join the WTO, in the past ten years, the anti-"Mai" movement centered on the local Chinese fast food industry's desire to share the market pie with "foreign fast food" has also continued one after another. As a result, Shanghainese "Ronghua Chicken" (VS KFC) and Henan people's "Red Sorghum" (VS McDonald's) have all lost one after another.At the end of last year, the China Cuisine Association decided to designate the three varieties of "Quanjude", "Goubuli" and "Lanzhou Ramen" as pilot sites for promoting Chinese fast food.Although the use of administrative orders to participate in market competition is questionable, the tastes of "Quanjude", "Goubuli" (except the one on Tianjin Food Street), "Lanzhou Ramen" and "Ronghua Chicken" are actually very good.However, whether "delicious food" can become a necessary condition for the large-scale operation of Chinese fast food and even compete with McDonald's is still doubtful. In the mid-1980s, McDonald's landed in Taiwan. Liang Shiqiu, who "has a good impression of it", wrote: "Because it is clean, cheap, convenient and delicious. Of course, we will never get tired of eating fried dough sticks and soybean milk, but look at the chef who fried fried dough sticks and made sesame seed cakes on the street. His attire, Who dares to patronize his whole body and all his equipment! There is no need to exaggerate the similarities and differences of Eastern and Western cultures, just this trivial matter, you can get a glimpse of the truth of superiority and inferiority." 16 years have passed, at least in the Chinese fast food restaurants on both sides of the Taiwan Strait that are determined to share with McDonald's, from hygiene, attire, equipment, to capital market and chain operation experience, "everything" is becoming more and more mature.No matter how persistent people are, they will not use the common basic values ​​of cleanliness and hygiene as reasons for anti-globalization.Yan Yunxiang, Department of Anthropology, University of California, pointed out in his paper "McDonald's in Beijing: The Localization of American Culture" that Chinese consumers, managers and employees of McDonald's have integrated this authentic American food culture It endows Chinese culture with meaning and makes it a localized, Chinese version of American culture.The promoter of this fieldwork further pointed out: "It can be seen from this that the theory of total Westernization... is an illusion. It has never been and cannot be a fact." However, novelty, curiosity, and foreign meat, as well as family gatherings and lovers' dates, which have become elements of "Sinicization of American culture" in Yan Wen, are gradually disappearing in China's coastal cities. At least during busy hours, McDonald's customers are mostly from Composed of people who don't know each other, this is the ideal customer of the American fast food industry.At the same time, the location of McDonald's is increasingly moving closer to the business district and office building district, and a mature market is taking shape.Even so, I still don't see that Chinese fast food has found a chance to compete with foreign fast food. Not long ago, KFC has fully arranged its flagship in Beijing with "Chinese characteristics" from the inside to the outside. On the packaging, there is even a localized text that is more "Chinese" than "Red Sorghum"—if so To understand globalization or non-globalization, both sides have made a mistake that should not be made——divorced from the essence of food culture.Western-style fast food is a food suitable for people who eat alone, and people who eat alone are the target customers of fast food restaurants.The Chinese subconscious has always resisted eating alone, and this situation has a certain tragic aesthetic feature. In other words, eating alone is an unpleasant, boring experience, and even a punishment, which should end as soon as possible.Therefore, when a Chinese has to eat alone, besides hygienic and cheap, fast food is also an important choice.Although Chinese fast food also has these elements now, and although youtiao noodles with soy milk dumplings also meet the basic requirements of fast food, Chinese food is a lively and collective food after all.The deep-fried dough sticks, soy milk dumplings and noodles placed in the context of Western fast food, not only cannot evoke the warmth it should, but contribute to the interpretation of the tragedy.Completely abandoning all sentimental symbols, including the western-style fast food that is the key prop of chopsticks, it becomes an experience that can temporarily mask or even paralyze the above-mentioned unpleasantness.A Chinese guy sitting alone with a hamburger in both hands, maybe this is what he wants. The failure of Chinese fast food just shows that there may not be any "globalization" problem in eating and drinking.As far as eating and drinking are concerned, there is only one "problem of globalization", that is, being full. After watching TV became the main leisure activity of human beings, "television food" came into being.Once the "golden time" of computers is over, the lights of thousands of homes gradually turn into silence, which is a great time for dial-up Internet access. In terms of trends, surfing the Internet is becoming an important leisure activity after dinner or TV.At the same time, Internet culture is also increasingly colored with entertainment and leisure.I don't know if China's climax has come earlier, but I believe that the development of "computer food" is also at this time! I immediately set about drawing up a business plan for developing "computer food."First of all, computer food should learn from the successful experience of TV food.The common points of the two are: first, it must be appetizing; second, it should not produce a feeling of fullness immediately.This is because both TV and the Internet are things that are easy to turn off your appetite; secondly, the differences between the two are: 1. Due to the different time slots for leisure activities, TV is played after dinner, and Internet access is mostly after TV. You will start to feel a little hungry. Therefore, computer food must be properly increased in starch and calories; 2. Computer food must be dry, chocolate is good, but there should not be too much powder on the surface, such as icing sugar, beef jerky is also good , but do not attach excessive curry powder and the like.There must be no oil, let alone juice, otherwise, the keyboard will become a veritable surfboard, and your mouse will behave more slippery than you imagined. Don't be afraid that these things are too dry, there is plenty of moisture on the net, enough to help swallow.If your imagination isn't enough to help you sip your water from the web, drink your tea hard.The person who sells tea said that tea contains substances that prevent radiation, and drinking tea while surfing the Internet can reduce radiation hazards.During the Cold War, they said that drinking tea frequently could prevent nuclear radiation.In fact, the benefits of drinking tea are nothing more than the opportunity to stand up and move around, refill water, go to the bathroom, and get rid of the unbearable waiting for reply.It is common for junior netizens to describe their mood like this: connect to the Internet, light a cigarette, make a cup of good tea, and then, the mind wanders into space.In fact, in that sense, drinking tea is no different from drinking plain water. Thinking about it like this, I suddenly remembered that Mr. Guo Liang wrote that every time he repaired the computer for literati friends, he would habitually knock their keyboards upside down a few times, always knocking out some soot, tea dregs, and melon seeds Shells, noodle pieces, and other food residues.Thinking of this, a burst of nausea came to my heart, and then I fell into a deep depression. Isn't the so-called TV food or computer food just snacks called junk food?What is there to develop?The so-called TV culture and the so-called Internet culture are not only a bunch of snacks in themselves, but also the largest supplier of snacks, not even fast food. On June 16, 1934, Lu Xun wrote the article "Snacks" in Shanghai's "Shenzhen Free Talk", criticizing the situation in Shanghai's publishing industry at that time that "there are many periodicals but few special books, and there are many sketches but few masterpieces".He believes that this has something to do with the fact that Shanghainese "like to eat snacks" and the snacks that are "really rich and vain".Lu Xun said that snacks, "as long as you have a good appetite, you can eat them from morning to midnight. The effect, it is said, is in the leisure time, and it is beneficial to health, and it tastes good... I have tried it for several years, but the effect is not obvious. So I was a little discouraged. So I relaxed the 'health' side and went to the 'tasty' side. Naturally, snacks are still snacks." TV and the Internet are the same, there are "reality and abundance" to sell, and "as long as you have a good appetite, you can eat from morning to midnight."To be honest, according to Lu Xun's standards, a column with a thousand words in a newspaper is definitely a snack.However, if the Internet continues to happily pick up the snacks that these people in the newspapers have eaten, and then pack them for everyone to eat, it is a bit mean to say that it is cheap, and even less likely to believe that it is environmentally friendly. At the two ends of a cable, one is a monitor, the other is also a monitor, two grasshoppers on a rope, I really don't understand why the Venus project was stillborn. Roland Barthes praised chopsticks.Compared with knives and forks, chopsticks, he argues, have a maternal tenderness that "does not cut, scratch, destroy, wear...with the appropriate caution in moving a baby: it is a It is a force, not an impulse. It never penetrates food, it never breaks food, it never tears food, it never destroys food, but it just lifts food, turns food and moves food... Food is no longer a need Violent prey." Bart's inspiration comes from the water market in Bangkok, which generally refers to oriental chopsticks.However, during the samurai era in Japan, chopsticks have a record as an offensive weapon.Since it was not allowed to bring knives into restaurants in ancient times, warriors sharpened their chopsticks according to local conditions for emergencies.Therefore, according to Japanese table manners, chopsticks should not be placed facing others, but must be placed horizontally on the chopstick pillow, which seems to mean "nuclear weapons do not aim at each other" today. In ancient China, the ceremony of horizontal chopsticks was also practiced in the court, but this has nothing to do with Japanese horizontal chopsticks. It shows the respect of the younger generation for the elders, and it was abolished until Zhu Yuanzhang.In Chinese history, there are few records of hurting people with chopsticks.Of course, the judge pen seems to be a kind of cold weapon closest to chopsticks. It is used to acupoint and relieve acupoints, and it is mostly seen in the legendary novels of the Tang Dynasty.However, the official history has never listed it among the eighteen kinds of weapons, and it is a small skill that a strong man can't do.Judge pens are mostly made of fine steel, and are mainly used for pointing, stabbing, dialing, and picking, and are held with two hands, which are closer to knives and forks. In the fantasy of Chinese literati, careful observation of chopsticks and their use will help martial arts to a new level, which can be seen in the discussion at the dinner table. "Hu Fei no longer stretched out his chopsticks to grab the vegetables, but held them up in the air, and did not let them fall. His eyes were fixed on Miao Renfeng's chopsticks. His own chopsticks slowly moved down inch by inch, and finally touched the cabbage. The technique at that time was incredible. It was fast and fast, retracted it with a pinch, and sent it to his mouth. Miao Renfeng couldn't see the rise and fall of his chopsticks, so he couldn't stop him, so he threw the chopsticks on the table, laughing loudly. Hu Fei ate from the mouthful of cabbage , Only then did he truly step into the realm of the first-rate master." Although chopsticks do not hurt people directly, there is a hidden and inner power.This inner power is not reflected in the use of chopsticks, but in their temporary suspension, which is similar to the Taoist technique in the house.At the Chinese dinner table, if a person wants to show his majesty, he does not need to roar loudly, let alone smash the utensils. He only needs to "severely" buckle the chopsticks on the table, which is neither rude nor dignified.In contrast, knives and forks are not suitable for "slapping" or "buttoning". If Mr. Bart happens to get angry at a certain dinner in Montparnasse, he can only throw the knife and fork on the white tablecloth. And it's sure to be a tabloid headline scandal the next day.Afterwards, Mr. Butt will also be deeply ashamed of it. Throwing the wine glass is just a signal, and the real contribution is the knife and axe behind the screen; chopsticks are different, they are both information and media.When a pair of chopsticks are patted on the table with a "snap", the chopsticks must be kept neat and uncluttered. The more neat the chopsticks are, the more majestic they are. Only gavel wood can compare with that momentum. This power is only enjoyed by the elders or those in authority at the dinner table, and it is mostly exercised in families that practice patriarchalism.Sima Guang's "Family Model" says: "The way of the family is dignified." If a parent only enjoys the priority of using chopsticks at the dinner table, but does not have the right to pat the same pair of chopsticks on the table at any time, such an authority system Undoubtedly incomplete, it has the overtones of a constitutional monarchy.At the same time, the tabletop suitable for "buttoning chopsticks" is preferably hardwood, followed by glass, and neither can cover the tablecloth.Plastic tabletops, and anything muffled in sound, are a repudiation of authority.I have noticed that hardwood or glass are the preferred tops for dining tables in patriarchal families. Let the raised chopsticks make a sudden pause between the mouth and the dining table, instead of being easily buckled on the table. At the same time, the face should not change suddenly, but should maintain a stagnant state. The highest state of "buttoning chopsticks".The so-called "leading without sending out, jumping like a jump", means defeating others without fighting. Cooking is a craft, and every craft comes with a self-protection mechanism.It's called raising the bar for competition, and it's a common survival tactic.For example, those who write web pages for others, without exception, will suggest to customers, add more scripts, do more Flash, flash here, move there, this is called professionalism.This kind of thing is a bit like basketball in Harlem. A person who is used to playing normal basketball admits that it looks good, but he is not sure whether it is good or not. Any art can be performed, and cooking is no exception.The basics of culinary art include skillful knife skills, proper heat, harmony of flavors, reasonable setting of nutrition, color, temperature and shape, etc.In addition, as diners, we are not demanding on chefs. "The dance in the mulberry forest is the meeting of the head of the Chinese classics" is just the obscenity of the literati.When a chef shows off his skills in the kitchen, it is partly for self-entertainment and partly as a demonstration or demonstration to his subordinates.Although the two have nothing to do with the diners outside the kitchen, they help to strengthen the sense of rhythm and relieve the depression of alienated labor. In any case, they can indirectly benefit the diners. A few senior pastry chefs in Kaifeng have the unique skill of "making soup filled Xiaolongbao with backhand bag".This kind of steamed stuffed bun was popular in the local area as early as the 11th century AD, but it was called "Shandong Plum Blossom Steamed Bun" at that time, and it was renamed Guantang Xiaolongbao in the 12th century.The current backhand wrapping method is very performative: Facing the audience, the chef stands with his hands behind his back, holding the dough with fillings in one hand, squeezing the dough out of the folds with the other finger, and then tightening the folds in a counterclockwise direction.Witnessing the perfect soup dumplings magically changed from the back to the front through the black box operation, the audience was full of applause and amazed.This kind of scene reminds me of Hu Ronghua's blindfold chess in the rain, one against more than a dozen, although Master Hu's expression is very painful, but Master Kaifeng's face is relaxed and easy, a bit like a thriller film tied to a chair people are quietly untying the rope, but in terms of entertainment, there is no distinction between the two. The buns made with the backhand taste good, at least not worse than those made with the forehand.But whether there is an inevitable relationship between the deliciousness of buns and the forehand and backhand of buns, no one can provide an answer.So I can only refer to other skills that use a backhand, such as tennis.We know that the application of backhand in tennis tactics is mainly to change the attack line, landing point and strength, and it is also an adaptive choice based on the direction of the opponent's incoming ball and one's own position.Of course, the backhand buns can also leave diners with such a space for imagination: My God, if the backhand is like this, how delicious is the forehand? In contrast, the knife-shaved noodles that are often used for performances have a certain rationale: the height of the top of the head or the arm can make the noodles fly into the pot just right.The flipping pot when stir-frying the crystal shrimp is also very beautiful.In order to fry fresh and tender shrimps, the bottom of the pot must be heated evenly. Therefore, in less than two minutes, the number of times of flipping the pot must reach 70 times per minute, and a super-shift chef can do more than a hundred times.As with distinguishing between pornography and nude art, the line between cooking for show and acting for show’s sake is often elusive, though not always visible, as (in the case of sliced ​​noodles) chefs who cook for show, are often Will be fat and bald. Speaking of performances, "Iron Cooking" produced by Fuji TV has become the most popular weekend entertainment since it was broadcast in the United States last July.In the form of a competition, the show invites Japanese, Chinese, French, and Italian chefs to complete four main and side dishes within one hour according to the materials provided temporarily, and the experts will judge the awards after tasting.Due to the competitive packaging of the program, if the contestants cast contemptuous glances at each other before they appeared on the stage, the commentator reported the progress of each person on the spot. In addition, to complete such a difficult task, the chef must use all his skills and the strength of body movements The range also ramps up abruptly, combining elements of monster movies, heavyweight boxing matches, and the enduring video game Street Fighter.It is said that American audiences don't really care about cooking, most of them see it as crazy wrestling, NBA or NFL. On the menus of domestic Japanese restaurants, there must be salmon sashimi or salmon sushi, misleading salmon as Japan's "national food".Orthodox restaurants in Japan rarely have such products.The most common way to eat salmon in Japan is to fry it.Of course, a Japanese who loves Chinese cuisine also finds it difficult to understand why "Yangzhou fried rice" cannot be eaten in Yangzhou. In fact, this is a typical way of eating in Hong Kong, just like Jacky Cheung and others can convince us that Koji Tamaki and others speak Cantonese better than Japanese. The weird word "salmon" is also a Cantonese transliteration of Salmon.In fact, there has always been a word "salmon" in Chinese characters lurking in the deep sea of ​​words, but in custom, it is called "salmon" according to the Northeast people, which is Hu Songhua's "Usuli Boat Song" Part of the catch of the Hezhe people sung in the song.The beauty of salmon lies in its richness and richness, just like "Ussuri Boat Song", it can form a long aftertaste in the mouth and in the air.The salmon caught along the Songhua River, the Heilongjiang River and the Wusuli River are sold in vegetable markets in big northern cities, but they are not very popular. This may be due to the fact that buyers regard them as "fish" subjectively. Sincerely.Of course, objectively speaking, salmon is indeed a fish, and it is a very big fish. It’s just that people who buy fish generally expect “fish” to be tender and light in terms of taste and texture. Unfortunately, Well, salmon is far from this kind of expectation. Anyway, I simply regard it as steak or pork chop partially.New Zealand's Chinook, which can weigh up to 50 kilograms, was originally an aircraft carrier in the salmon fleet. However, scientists in the country are still not satisfied. Through a genetic technology that controls hormone growth, they have recently succeeded in killing Chinook. The weight has increased to more than 250 kilograms, which is similar to that of an arctic dog.如此重大的鱼，肉质当然会有性格，麦当劳的鱼柳包，系用与鲑鱼接近的鳕鱼制成，又有谁把它当成过“鱼”？也算是“量变造成质变”的一个另例。 不过，据有关方面的估算，目前中国每年约进口鲑鱼１０万吨，而国内市场的年销量至少在１２万吨以上，有２万吨的缺口。有这种局面，我认为端赖鲑鱼的成功变身，不仅大马哈鱼改名作“三文”，寅次郎首度由赵本山饰演，吃法上亦被充分的日本化，用生的。在多达５００种的鲑鱼食谱上，生吃只是一法。生食的鲑鱼在保鲜上有很高的要求，急冻的货色较易变质，色泽上又很难辨别，再考虑到寄生虫的威胁，风险实在太高。其实，作为顶级品种的苏格兰鲑鱼，传统上多以烟熏，即常见的ｓｍｏｋｅｓａｌｍｏｎ；另外，煎鲑鱼也是一道美味而简易的菜式。取肚腩部分，择鱼肉切面上有乳白色条纹鱼脂如年轮般密密缠绕者，解冻，略煎，滋滋声里，看鱼油汩汩而出，绯红暗转金黄，最后，一碗白米饭毫不犹疑地扣入煎鱼的平底不沾锅……还让我说什么？趁热。 普鲁斯特在的某章写道：“日头西沉，天空呈现出鲑鱼般的粉红，这教我一阵愉快，于是穿上衣服，出门去了餐馆。”如果普鲁斯特能够进一步指出此种“鲑鱼般的粉红”实际上就是烟熏鲑鱼，粉红中带点暧昧，不仅更近晚霞的颜色，也更能教我也有“一阵愉快”。烟熏鲑鱼是所有鲑鱼食谱中最有创造力的一种，不生不熟，非此非彼，有点恍恍惚惚。我曾消耗两支雪茄，在苏格兰高地山核桃木的烟味之外，替半打烟鲑鱼蒙了一层皮纳得里欧谷地的湿润，再卷上几粒饱满的鲑鱼子、黄瓜切片，腥咸黏稠之外，又有生生的脆和娓娓的甜，丰富了味道的层次，又解了烟鲑鱼之干涩，佐以冰白葡萄酒以及艾可的那本《ＨｏｗｔｏｔｒａｖｅｌｗｉｔｈａＳａｌｍｏｎ（如何携带鲑鱼旅行）》，可惜当时的天空只有烟熏而不见鲑鱼般的粉红，要不，可真是鱼乐无穷啊。 世纪初，老外们用三个Ｄ来概括其对北京的印象：Ｄｕｓｔ，Ｄｕｃｋ，Ｄｉｐ¯ｌｏｍａｔ。外交官和尘土，尤其是“风吹来的沙”，大城市至今仍以北京为最，鸭子就更不用说了。 凡首度访京的中外游客，若未能吃到烤鸭，就好像没登上长城，没到过天安门，不免陷入深深的自责兼会遭人嘲笑。你去各处的全聚德门口看看，大大小小的观光车横七竖八挤成了一个巴士总站，店堂里的人群，则令人回想起十多年前麦当劳在中国启市之盛况。 烤鸭的魅力，除了北京填鸭在特殊方法下被培育出来的特殊肉质之外，我相信还在于鸭、饼、葱、酱的混合以及这一过程的娱乐性。林语堂说：“我有时觉得，鬼魂或天使没有肉体，真是一种多么可怕的刑罚：看见一条清冽的流水，而没有脚可以伸下去享受一种愉快的冷感，看见一碟北平或琅岛（ＬｏｎｇＩｓｌａｎｄ，今译长岛）的鸭而没有舌头可以尝它的味道，看见烤饼而没有牙齿可以咀嚼它……我们是会觉得多么悲哀啊。”舌头和牙齿的排比，不经意道出了烤鸭的秘密：质感上，有饼的韧、葱的爽、皮的脆、肉的嫩、皮肉分开的脆嫩、连皮带肉的脆嫩；味觉上，有酱的咸甜、鸭肉的骚，这些因素被一揽子包裹起来，便酿成了一种繁复而丰厚的美味。不包面饼的鸭肉，吃起来索然无味，这就像一个美人与我们肉帛相见，用不了多久，我们就会深感于双方的没有文化，“我们是会觉得多么悲哀啊。 ” 而一次完整的进食烤鸭的过程，每一个环节都充满着表演性和游戏性。先是被引入厨房选鸭（参考选美的标准，我通常会选色白而条顺的），接着，可以在白嫩的鸭体上挥毫题词，如“福”、“寿”等等（时间充裕的话，也大可把苏慧伦的歌词以蝇头小楷抄写一遍），然后，回到座位上幸福地等待，四五十分钟后，一身雪白制服的厨师将一辆载有枣红色烤鸭的不锈钢推车推到阁下的桌前，察看过自己的题词是否遭到篡改以及有无发生窑变，就轮到厨师来熟练地表演刀术（据说标准的刀数为１０８刀，不多不少。我数过，每一回数到第八刀就馋得数不下去），在此期间，可以放心地与埋头工作的厨师和鸭子合影留念（两者都很合作）。然后，从蒸笼中掂起荷叶面饼一张，以张贴大字报之前往纸背上刷浆糊之法，涂之以甜面酱，填之以丁香叶尺寸的鸭肉、葱段，也不妨试试“蒜泥、白糖、萝卜条” 或“椒盐、辣椒盐”等等不同的组合，就像在ＰＣ上玩足球游戏，把巴西的前锋线、意大利的后防线以及荷兰的中场，在同一支队伍里过家家似地调来调去，玩一回梦幻组合。最后，以执包袱、叠纸船、包饺子或者裹春卷的方式，包将起来，一口咬下去……噫，如此好玩的游戏，又岂可假手于人？ 密布着细节的饮食，原本最不堪为游客所玩。《全聚德史话》说：“三辈子学吃，五辈子学穿。”那些一辈子只打算吃一回北京烤鸭的游客，导致了烤鸭的速成同时也接受着速成的烤鸭，例如以电烤箱取代果木挂炉烤制。当然，吃烤鸭不必到北京，沪、穗等地，都有京城老字分号，香港“鹿鸣春”的烤鸭，水准更在全聚德之上，但是玩烤鸭，一定要到北京，北京则一定要到团结湖北京烤鸭店。此店不仅鸭好，尤胜在少游客，光顾者多为本地人及附近使馆区里的那些长驻游客。你看，刮大风的星期天，一个携家人共度ＦａｍｉｌｙＤａ ｙ（家庭日）的外交官，扫扫风衣上的尘土，“吱呀”一声，推门就进了这家烤鸭店。 整体上，北京人对吃烤鸭似乎提不起精神。据梁实秋考：“北平烤鸭在北平不叫烤鸭，叫烧鸭，或烧鸭子，在口语中加一子字。”现代的北京话，已弃用“烧”字同时也将“子”字省略。每次到北京，我都会向当地的损友们提出去吃趟烤鸭的倡议，却无一次不遭白眼： “鸭？有病呀你丫。”