Chapter 8 Writing Foodism-6

One of the most effective phrases adults use to deter children is "So-and-so is going to eat you, so-and-so is coming to eat you."The object called out from the darkness by an adult to "eat you" is usually an animal, a beast of prey, or a monster between humans and animals. Although "eat you" is more effective against preschoolers, there is still a serious misunderstanding between the intimidated and the intimidated.From the former's point of view, "being eaten" means dying abruptly, abnormally, tragically, and uglyly, while the latter does not know death. Roughly the same daily eating experience, so that they believe that they will enter another unknown, dark, and restrained space through the other person's mouth.After being eaten by a giant whale, Pinocchio was able to meet his father holding an oil lamp in the belly of the whale and escape successfully. As for the Monkey King who can run wild in the belly of the Iron Fan Princess, it is easier for children to believe that in that vast world There is still a lot to do.

Children's books are also the main medium for adults to send "being eaten" signals to children.In the Brothers Grimm's system, the wolf first "swallowed the bedridden grandmother 'Grrrr!' whole, and then "Grrrrrrrr!" went".Children all over the world who listened to the story also "gurgled" and swallowed this situation into their stomachs without even biting.Thumb, the son of a tailor, also had a rough fate. First he was swallowed by a black cow, then he was stuffed with several pieces of fat beef and stuffed into a pig intestine to make smoked sausage, and then he was "wrapped in his mouth" by a fox. mouth".As for what has been regarded as a children's book, it is a complete manual for cannibalism.In fact, children only know that all monsters must eat Tang Seng. As for the motives for eating Tang Seng, they are not very clear, let alone understand what is longevity and what is not old. less hairy.

Fairy tales mostly focus on portraying the ferocity of the eater, and at the same time show the wit and bravery of the eater. In other words, the law of the jungle of eating and rebelling is the basic line that runs through this type of story. In The Smart Turtle, the first comic book I bought my daughter when she was about two years old, a hungry fox uses various methods to eat a turtle that had previously prevented it from eating a frog , all the smart and fat turtles However, as far as the trend is concerned, the current fairy tales are more civilized, and the relationship between animals and humans has achieved unprecedented harmony on the basis of gentleness, courtesy and thrift.Robots that feed on physical energy for survival do not show strong urges to eat other robots that also rely on such energy.The British "teletubbies" (Teletubbies, Hong Kong translation "antenna got B", only eat two things a day: the solid part is Tubbie Toast, which is dark and loud, and the liquid part is ice cream, which is not like ice cream, and milk paste is not like Tubbie—Cus¯tard of milk paste, never changing, never tired of it. Living in the era of weight loss, Xiaowanzi is relatively greedy, but in my impression, her main problem seems to be how to overcome the problem of partial eclipse, such as working hard to eat Natto. In my country, apart from performing on CCTV’s Spring Festival special program where Ju Ping cooked a large pot of braised pork with a whole bottle of soy sauce, she rarely talked about food in her own programs.

Those of us who grew up in the anxiety of being eaten are no longer satisfied with seeing the word "cannibal" between the words. Adults have written their own fairy tales for themselves. The most terrifying scene is the lonely beauty He warned Lu Xiaofeng: "There are not only cannibal beasts in this world, but also cannibals." Lu Xiaofeng replied grimly: "I know, you are cannibals." There are no donkeys in ears, and those who eat are loaded.A campaign of eating donkeys for the whole people was launched vigorously inside and outside Wuyang City.According to estimates by industry insiders, nearly 2,000 donkeys are being slaughtered daily in Guangzhou. These donkeys have been trafficked from Shanxi, Shandong and other places to Guangzhou, and the journey takes 72 hours.After resting for about 24 hours, it entered the mouths of Guangzhou people.

How much do you eat?In and out of the city, restaurants and restaurants in the four townships and five towns, regardless of ownership, and regardless of their respective specializations, all sold donkeys obligatoryly.Drilling out of the ground from the Huadiwan subway station, looking at the entire Hualei Road on both sides of the street, there are more than 40 shops selling donkey meat.Many of the welcoming ladies standing at the door were unfortunately laid off, and their positions have been replaced by the yelling donkey tied to the door. Later, relevant parties thought it was a bit outrageous to do so. How could an international metropolis become an international donkey market?In the winters of the past few years, when they were eager to eat goats, the store tied a goat at the door, and the relevant parties were open-eyed.I didn't expect it to get more and more outrageous, and actually got this thing that is bigger and louder than a goat.So some measures were taken, so only in the suburbs or urban-rural fringe areas, can you see the donkey that is about to be eaten before eating it.

Of course, diners are not here to reward donkeys.Some people like to eat donkeys in places far away from urban areas. It is entirely because the donkey meat in these shops is sold fresh and freshly refrigerated.Needless to say, it is fresh. The donkey meat hot pot soup base is made from donkey bones after a whole night.Donkey meat in clear soup is also very good, as long as the donkey meat is fresh enough.If you still have an appetite, you can eat a whole donkey from head to tail, from the outside to the inside, without letting go of any mistakes: boiled donkey meat, boiled donkey belly, boiled donkey skin, stewed donkey skin, stewed donkey skin, etc. Donkey hooves, stewed donkey belly, donkey intestines, donkey tendon, stewed donkey brain, donkey blood, donkey tongue, donkey tendon stew, as for the traditional selling point of donkeys - donkey whip, of course, you can't cut it wrong, let alone let it go.

However, in terms of all-round development of donkeys, Guangzhou still loses to Beijing.The latter has a much longer history of eating donkeys than Guangzhou.At present, the famous saying widely quoted by the industry in Guangzhou: "dragon meat in the sky, donkey meat on the ground", the copyright belongs to the old Beijingers.Although Beijingers are not as crazy about eating donkeys as in Guangzhou, they win with fancy varieties.Such as sauced donkey ears, donkey heads, donkey legs, donkey tails and more sensual donkey skin jelly can't be made in Guangzhou.This is mostly because people in Guangzhou eat donkeys as medicine, eating donkeys for nourishment, emphasizing medicinal value and despising taste.It is said that the curative effects of donkeys include: tonifying qi and blood, nourishing yin and tonifying deficiency, strengthening the foundation and nourishing yuan, nourishing blood and moistening dryness, promoting calcium supplementation, etc.; in addition, the rich collagen in donkey skin is more anti-wrinkle. , increase elasticity and other skin care and beauty aspects of miraculous effects.Even the soup base of the donkey meat hot pot needs to add refreshing herbs.All in all, "clearing heat and detoxifying", as long as these four words appear, Guangzhou people will rush forward without hesitation.Look at the poster on the wall: "Moisturizing donkey skin", it looks more like skin care products than the name of the dish, and the donkey shops in Guangzhou are more like clinics and drugstores than catering businesses.In this way, a large amount of first-hand donkey skin glue is directly ingested. If this continues, at least the sales agent in Guangzhou will be the sales agent in Guangzhou. danger.

The most famous donkey meat shop in Guangzhou is actually called "Mule Meat" shop.The boss said that this is a good sign if you make a mistake.This is of course not to say that donkey eaters in Guangzhou don’t know that “the father of a donkey and the mother of a horse are the offspring of a mating male donkey and a female horse.” Momentum pushes forward. I often dream of chicken soup, the kind of sallow chicken soup. I also often dream about this place. This place is not far from my home, just at a corner of Nanjing East Road, a shop selling stage props. In the early to mid-1970s, there were only model plays on the stage and screen, so the items displayed in the window were all model play props.What I can still think of now are red lanterns, white hair, flags, hats, riding boots, overcoats, tiger-skin vests, horsewhips with red tassels, long, short, cold and hot weapons, and they are all ecstasy. The bone, the most is that pot of yellow chicken soup.

This pot of soup is a prop in a certain scene of the later model play "Ode to the Dragon River".The casserole is probably real, the chicken, of course it is fake, the overall effect of this small prop (at least in the eyes of some male and female students) is extremely realistic, all due to the layer on the surface of the casserole Yellow cellophane.It is this layer of thin paper that makes the fake chicken leg in the pot look lifelike, and the pores on the chicken skin are still vivid. At the same time, it also arouses associations of deliciousness and "nutrition", and even feels like burning your mouth.

I still miss the prop chicken soup, which may be due to the following three reasons: 1. I often hang around in that area after school, which happens to be hungry; "Hundreds of Chicken Feast", but it is only used as a clue throughout the plot, and there has never been a scene of actually eating chicken; third, such a yellow chicken soup that makes people cry is really long gone. Just like today's beauties, the current chicken soup is very white, except for Knorr brand chicken essence.On this question, I have collected two different types of answers: The first type is not about chickens but about people.The sallow in memory is actually dyed with the subcutaneous fat of the chicken.People today are very concerned about their own subcutaneous fat and the subcutaneous fat of chicken. They even think that drinking too much chicken soup will increase blood cholesterol, which will cause arteriosclerosis and angina pectoris. Therefore, before serving the chicken soup, the oil is carefully filtered out. , so you can see it without its yellow color; the second type, the problem lies with the chicken, not the person.Only purebred Chinese native chickens are yellow, and farm chickens and Chinese and foreign hybrids do not have the minimum ability to make yellow.Later, I went to buy a purebred native chicken and stewed it for more than three hours without removing the oil. In the end, I still got a pot of chicken soup with excellent whitening effect.

According to a report recently published by geneticists at the Roslin Institute in Scotland, human chromosomes recombine 0.58 times per million years, while chicken chromosomes only recombine 0.16 times per million years. In other words, although it is theoretically impossible to guarantee that chicken soup will never change color for generations, as of the date of publication of this article, since Caucasians are still white, blacks are still black, and yellows are still yellows, it is hard to imagine the speed of chicken mutation , It will be so fast that the soup will change color.Still, the conclusions of science are hard to contend with experience, which tells us that sleeping experience is always yellowed, while waking experience is constantly bleached, like a pair of jeans.In fact, I've begun to wonder if anyone in the world has actually stewed chicken soup as yellow as I've ever had it.Sometimes, I am not even sure whether what I miss is real chicken soup, prop chicken soup, or just a kind of chicken soup for the soul.In other words, my long-standing incorrect ideas about the color of chicken soup are all poisoned by this little prop that happened to appear in the history of Chinese Peking Opera. Yellow memory, white chicken soup. Traditional recipes in plain text are being replaced by recipes with pictures and texts, or even pictures that overwhelm everything. The user-friendly photo menu realizes cross-cultural communication in an intuitive way.Whether it is a native language or a foreign language, the names of dishes are sometimes very challenging.Even if you are proficient in a certain foreign language, you may not be able to understand the words used in recipes in a special format in a special context.Schematic menus can not only reduce textual and semantic misleading, but also stimulate the desire to buy and appetite.Before ordering, you can see the actual color picture of the dish first, just like looking at the photo of the other party before going on a blind date. It is best to take a full body, and swimsuit is better.Therefore, the recipes of some restaurants have reached the level of the sales brochures of luxury houses, and the diners who enter these restaurants are too lazy to talk, and just move their fingers on the menus, similar to the style of a mouse. However, the owner of the recipe may therefore take another risk.The words make the diners fantasize that he may experience similar "feelings"; the pictures make him firmly believe that he will get a "such" real thing.Once words, especially the imaginative space expanded by Chinese characters are squeezed by pictures, the seller's room for maneuver is also at risk in the debate on the consistency of the real object and the photo of the real object.Unless it can be guaranteed that the products in the kitchen are 100% identical to the photos in terms of color, layout, specifications, proportions and other major indicators, otherwise, once a customer thinks that the product is not the right one and encounters a hot one, they may sue. Go to the Consumer Council.The photos are recognized as or should be faithful, and can be used as evidence in court legally; diners are also sharp-eyed, and they know better than anyone else that the final purchase is not the picture after all.In fact, as early as Foucault revealed that "this is not a pipe, because it is just a painting", the hidden danger of "this is not a big yellow croaker, because it is just a photo" may have been buried. In some cases, pictures are far less convincing than words.The following is a gallery owner's experience: When dealing with customers in the gallery, the shop assistants lobby from the sidelines, but the effect is often ineffective.Since he moved this business to eBay, there are no more original works, let alone the sound of the same period, but the transaction volume has increased, and the goods are in rotation.The reason for this is that he has done something on the web page that cannot be done or done in the gallery to attract attention: he added some words to these Chinese landscape paintings that are specially sold to Europe, sometimes it is a drama The stories of modernization are sometimes a few lines of lyrical sentences, but without exception, they are full of "Oriental sentiment" (Oriental).Although the situation of the gallery is indeed somewhat similar to that of a restaurant, whether it is text or pictures, even the high-fidelity sushi or ramen made by the Japanese with non-edible materials, the break between symbols and experience is only a matter of degree. It is still difficult to bridge. Although the novelist Ni Kuang is famous for his Wesleyan name, after immigrating to the United States, his English is not good enough, and he is very troubled when ordering food. Mr. Cai Lan told a joke, saying that someone taught Ni Kuang that the one with the largest font on the tadpole script is the best. Expensive, and the rest can be deduced in turn.One day, Ni’s was dining out, pointing to the thinnest line of small characters at the bottom of the menu, nodding to the waiter frequently.After several rounds of eye contact, the other party reported to the manager helplessly: "This person insists on ordering our 15% service fee."In this case, the text has actually been treated as graphics, just like a computer processes Chinese.Any space composed of images or words is a virtual space, a symbolic space, the most real symbol of a recipe, maybe just a set of Arabic numerals.As far as a diner is concerned, once he finds himself in a certain TOEFL (Test of Eating As A Foreign Language) situation when he reads the menu, the only effective self-help rule of seeking truth from facts is to follow the traditional way of cheating in the exam room: plagiarism.Loosening the outside and tightening the inside, holding up the menu, half-covering the face, peeking at the front, back, left, and right tables, got the essentials, then calmly summoned the waiter to come over, handed over the menu, and pointed to the direction of twelve o'clock by the way: "Forget it, just Take what they eat." Regarding dogs and dog meat, there have always been serious differences between the East and the West. The former exaggerated the nourishment and delicacy of dog meat, while the latter glorified the intimate relationship between dogs and humans.However, just like many conflicts of values ​​between the East and the West, there is actually no point of focus. For example, whether dog meat should be eaten and whether dog meat is good or not seem to be completely different things. Famous dog food is produced all over the country, such as Kaibo dog meat in Guangdong, braised dog meat in Guangxi, braised dog meat in Yongxin, stewed dog meat in Suzhou, Huajiang dog meat in Guizhou, Zhangjia dog meat in Taierzhuang, and the "everything but dog hair" "Yanji dog meat hot pot that can be put into the pot".As for the dog meat in turtle juice from Peixian County, Jiangsu Province and the trial-measured dog meat from Luyi County, Henan Province, it also has a royal style because of the relationship between Han Gaozu and Emperor Guangwu.It was once reported that the "Zhangjia dog meat" from Taierzhuang "won high praise from Chinese and foreign friends" at the 60th anniversary of Taierzhuang's victory in the Taierzhuang War and the Economic and Trade Fair in the past two years.I estimate that this "Chinese and foreign friends" probably does not include European and American guests.Of course, the West has many of our friends, but it is hard to imagine the "high praise" of Western friends for eating dogs, and the "surprise of allies" is imminent.Seiyu once threatened to boycott the Olympics to force the South Korean government to order the ban on "fragrant meat shops".However, because men in the country generally believe that hosting the Olympics and eating dog meat have the function of aphrodisiac, more than 6,000 restaurants still insist on this traditional business, but the dog meat has been replaced by dog ​​meat soup. Andy, an old American who has been in Tokyo for seven years and has a good command of Chinese characters, once passed by the "Goubuli" steamed stuffed bun shop in Tianjin Food Street with me.Suddenly seeing a "dog" like a fight on the black lacquered signboard, Bi Yi was horrified and asked, "Shen, do you eat dog... food?" So I briefly explained the allusion, but the other party still couldn't let it go: "Dogs are people. My friend, why are you ignoring people?" I became a little impatient, and decided to nip this rambling conversation in the bud, and said sternly: "Dog is just a word, a symbol. Think about it, in your hometown in New Jersey The hot dog I ate, HotDog, is the heated dog sausage in the bun?" really tired.In fact, I personally have full sympathy and understanding for loving dogs and eating dog meat, but it is just a cultural difference.On the BBS of a North American website, a Chinese student talked about his pleasant experience of hunting wild geese in Canada and emphasized: "I don't want to use the word wild goose, because I feel too culturally guilty." People, unless it is absolutely necessary, generally do not burn the qin and cook the crane with their own hands. As for whether the cooked crane will taste as delicious as roast duck or roast goose, that is another matter.A friend of mine who "engages" in philosophy even believes that "tasting" is an Eastern way of understanding and practice, just like Westerners know the opposite sex, and there is nothing to make a fuss about.However, the only thing I don't agree with is that I don't have the slightest preference for dogs and dog meat, and I love both dogs and dog meat.I was eating at a food stall in the countryside, and the owner was drinking some wine on another chair, throwing some leftovers to a dog at my feet from time to time, and at the same time cast a loving gaze: "I have raised it for more than a year, this baby... ..." I thought that the more I said it, the more disgusting it would become, but he spat out a mouthful of old phlegm: "When you come back in two months, you will have boiled dog meat." A piece of "Dog Raising to Get Rich Information" said: "With the improvement of people's living standards, the demand for dog meat is increasing, and raising dogs for meat will not worry about sales." In fact, with the improvement of people's living standards, the demand for dogs The demand for pet dogs is also increasing, and pet dogs are not worrying about sales.I have seen too many such people and such dogs.I bought a bungalow, bought a car, bought a famous dog, and then drove to the long-awaited "fragrant meat shop" in the suburbs to buy the whole or part of another dog.After parking the car and lowering the window, the night is so beautiful and the dog meat smells so delicious, but I don’t know why the Snoopy hanging on the car window turned around automatically and pointed its butt at all of us. According to a survey report by a certain organization, the "special dishes" reported by middle school students in Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou are all eggs.Middle school students in Beijing are best at scrambled eggs with tomatoes, students in Shanghai are best at frying poached eggs, and students in Guangzhou are best at scrambled eggs.According to expert analysis, middle school students' preference for egg dishes is not because they really love to eat them, but because they are simple and easy to operate.The reason why middle school students across the country are so independent shows that they share too little housework in their daily lives. Housework should be done, but it is unimaginable for those middle school students who are so overwhelmed by their homework that they don't even have time to eat, to concoct a few altars of it at home.As Cui Jian sang: "Reality is like a stone, spirit is like an egg. Although the stone is hard, the egg is life. Our personalities are all round, like eggs under the red flag." Middle school students fell in love with the egg by coincidence. There is clearly an element of passive confrontation with reality and laziness.When I was in the fourth grade of elementary school, I had to hand in one page of large characters every week. All the men and women in the class were afraid of the road. Only one male student did it very easily, because he wrote the same four characters every time: "One is divided into two." Two", the total number of strokes is one out of ten, the homework is done, love whoever.The teacher didn't dare to be wordy, who would dare to persuade a primary school student to stop repeating Chairman Mao's quotations?The same goes for an egg, breaking the shell, releasing the contents, splitting in two, heating, and consummating, in a way similar to canned food.Picking eggs from the egg compartment in the refrigerator is a lot like picking cans from the supermarket shelf, except you can't hold the can up to the light.As for cracking eggshells, it is even easier than opening a can.The reason why eggs bring a certain negative evaluation to the behavior of middle school students is presumably because of its canned properties.As we all know, although canned food is also food and costs money, it is impolite and self-willing to degenerate, whether it is hospitality or self-serving.The following incident has always been regarded by Mr. Wang Shixiang as a great disgrace: In 1948, at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Mr. Wang had a dispute with a descendant of the Tsarist Queen over which one was better, Chinese cold cuts or Russian snacks. More than 30 years later, the other party came to Beijing suddenly, and the customers came at a slow pace, so Wang had no choice but to quickly eat mud sausage, liver sausage and foreign ham bought from a deli, supplemented by dace in black bean sauce, braised bamboo shoots in oil, and canned four-fresh grilled bran.The guest said: "I didn't expect you, a culinary master who is good at making cold dishes, to live on ready-made cooked vegetables and canned food." Although eggs are a kind of lazy food, it is easy to make, but it is not easy to really do it well.Eggs are very challenging. Whether it is dropped into the pot or thrown out to express indignation, the prospect of an egg after its shell is broken is unpredictable. As Oscar Wilde said: "Every egg is An adventure." In the classic French cooking, there are five different ways to roll even the most idiotic boiled eggs.Because of the smoothness and wateriness of eggs, the way to cook eggs is to make good use of this temperament of eggs to make varied combinations.The masterpiece of middle school students in Beijing—scrambled eggs with tomato is a perfect match. Of course, I also found five different ways.In any case, a plate of vibrant tomato scrambled eggs is so bright, so healthy, so full of meat and vegetables, how eight or nine o'clock, how like a yellow dress and red dress, and (in a relaxed state) finished the day's work A 16-year-old girl doing her homework.Speaking of Beijing, I can't help but think of the eggs in the Moscow restaurant again: the eggs are boiled, split, the yellow is discarded, the nest is seized, and caviar is stuffed in the nest.White and red complement each other, which is very pleasing to the eye; red is fishy and salty, white is light, red is sticky and lingering, white is sharp and indifferent, fish roe and egg, egg after egg, one bite at a time, I really don’t know where the world is going.Of course, this is not the way to eat the best caviar. Red caviar is very common, so you need to use your brains and play tricks.The last time I saw the interior of Lao Mo was in Jiang Wen's mentally retarded version of "Once Upon a Time in America".It's under that high ceiling with its giant chandelier that Caviar successfully bombards a teenager's palate.Many years later, every time I pass by Lao Mo, there are still aftershocks in my heart.But I don't know why I always pass through the door and refuse to enter. I don't like Lao Mo anymore, just like I don't like hearing someone singing "Night in the Suburbs of Moscow" in karaoke. This is not dinner, nor is it an addendum to missing dinner, but an additional meal in addition to three meals a day.The night snack in Mandarin is called midnight snack in Cantonese, also known as "xiaoye".Shanghainese used to call it "Ye Dim Sum", but now it is also from Cantonese. Supper has been made for supper, and its content and behavior have also changed accordingly.Supper generally refers to a bowl of noodles or a bowl of wonton, and the quantity is recorded as a bowl, plate or meal; supper is an act, and the quantity is one time or one time.As for the Shanghai people abandoning the name of "night dim sum", apart from following the trend of Guangdong, the main reason is that the name "night dim sum" no longer matches the reality.Of course, snacks can still be served at midnight, but they are usually a replica of dinner, and even expanded into a banquet. "Xiao Ye" or "Xiao Ye" are both verb-object phrases, that is, "killing or killing a period of time in the night by eating and drinking", or in other words, eating the night. Night snacks in the city are mostly the terminal of the evening entertainment express.The nightclubs are brightly lit, eagerly waiting for suppers to gather from all directions, and they come from another place where the lights have just been turned off.This kind of supper is actually an unhealthy habit. The unhealthy is not mainly medical, but psychological.In most cases, the belly of the midnight snacker is not empty, but a little bit lost in his heart, full of fear and nostalgia for the passing of a good night.His face was full of weariness, but his heart was screaming wildly: Entertainment, please stay for me!Under such circumstances, as long as one person raises his arms and shouts, the crowd in the dim light will all cheer.Therefore, what to eat for supper is not the key, the key is to use a repetitive ritual to prolong the night's entertainment as much as possible. Han Xizai's night banquet is a luxurious version of supper.However, as a voyeuristic reappearance, on the two tables in the night banquet picture, there are only eight plates of food that are not explained very well, and the wide-screen singing and complicated strings are the focus of attention.Li Yu's food in the palace must not be inferior to those of Zhongshushe, and he has no intention of inquiring about what delicacies these people are eating behind closed doors in the middle of the night. His intention is to understand the rumored "cheers" The entertainment scene of "unrestrained, unrestrained", that is, "wanting to see the state of interlacing cups and chopsticks among the jars, lamps and candles". However, on the surface, the supper is filled with clinking cups of wine and noisy laughter, but in essence, it is all tinged with depression. "Looking at the crisis with no cold eyes, it's a pity that the situation is the same as the day", this is the depression of the Southern Tang Dynasty at midnight. As for our own crisis, we are trying to keep the banquet alive.Anxiety that is too short for a good night can easily lead to extreme behavior. During the regent of Philip Orleans, Paris, from the court to the market, once had a kind of "exquisite dinner" movement from the dining table to the bedside, and then back to the table. .In Diderot's view, the feeling of going to this glamorous supper is like going to a brothel. Gathering and parting have their own fun.Only after people leave can they enjoy the wonderful scene of "after people leave, a crescent moon is hooked, and the sky is like water". Can't bear to say goodbye."If it is cloudy and you are really hungry, you can go home and cook for yourself.When you enter the kitchen, don’t turn on the light, and gently open the refrigerator, you will see an orange light overflowing warmly, but in the daytime, this light is ignored.So there is light, so there are fried rice and hot noodle soup.At this moment, you can really hear all the small sounds in the kitchen, for example, how the egg white is wrapped in the yolk and gurgling out of the egg shell.Finally, with the "ding" of the microwave oven, the aesthetic realm of "cooking at night for a quiet event" has come suddenly. Occasionally supper is okay, but in the long run, there will be a mechanism of dependence both physically and psychologically.If you can't overcome it for a while, self-curfew is not enough, you can try to gradually postpone the dinner time regularly, and finally let the dinner completely cover the supper.But the way to cure the root cause is that when a group of people are like birds and beasts, their hearts must be as cruel as beasts, and their actions must be as quick as birds.When you break up, say break up, and don't say go to supper. It is difficult for normal men and women to talk about a normal relationship in a normal age and go around the dinner table.Ever since Ban Zhao made the rule that men and women are not allowed to eat at the same table after the age of seven, the dining table has always been a good place for eating and spending time outside the wall.A man and a woman in love eating at the same table is a longing for uncooked rice over cooked rice, and it is a safe rehearsal for a future life together. Besides, rehearsals for the remaining items on the program list for a happy life in the future have different degrees. risk exists. Love is a busy thing for idlers, busy dating, busy sending and receiving love letters, busy watching movies, and eating.Compared with watching a movie, eating is closer to being busy.Watching a movie, two people staring at the front, the screen is indeed busy, but the person sitting in the dark is flustered.Eating is different, with busy mouth and busy hands, you can also watch the other party's various movements at close range, watch him pick up chopsticks, watch her drink soup, watch him pay, watch her touch up makeup, and you almost don't see him curling up. Roll up your sleeves and do the dishes.The days and nights when Yu Dafu pestered Wang Yingxia, according to the diary published by the man afterwards, I retrieved from January 1st to May 31st, 1927. There were no more than 12 kisses, but 37 meals. Different stages of love have their own realms on the dining table.In the budding state, they often take the initiative to set up frequent dinners and call on friends.In the midst of the feasting and feasting, and the interlacing of cups and cups, I borrowed some alcohol and said some crazy words.Only my own heart understands that everyone present has nothing to do with others, except for the one I like.In this kind of scene, no matter how much you want to get close to the other party, the parties involved should not sit next to each other, but should face each other, either upright or oblique. Let the drunken eyes be stained with the smell of wine and vegetables. Water, hovering over the messy cups and dishes, inadvertently looking for a place to land. "Send the hook spring wine warm at the next seat, and shoot the candles covered with candles and red lanterns", that is to say, this kind of small affection at the dinner party.In addition, the act of eating itself can also promote love.A man in Beijing once recalled the impulse to kiss his girlfriend for the first time in a fashion magazine: "I was fascinated by the way she relished eating. Her gently wriggling lips are so cute and sexy, which makes me hate Can’t be the Italian macaroni on her plate.” Seeing the shepherdess, she longs to be transformed into a lamb for her to twitch;Lovers in the world share the same heart. As we ate and ate, we talked more and more, people ate less and less, suddenly one day, only you and I were left at the banquet, the dinner game has become a chess game, and a game of love is approaching. The juncture of the hand.At this moment, a large amount of amphetamine is secreted, which reduces our IQ to the lowest level, and what we eat and drink has long been neglected.Amphetamines are eating our brainstem, while we have eyes for beauty and delicious food in our mouths. Anything is delicious, and even the most expensive ones are cheap.Expensive and terrible restaurant, guests like you and me are most welcome.Lovers are obsessively eating candlelight dinners on Valentine's Day, while restaurateurs all over the city are toasting to celebrate the annual April Fool's Day in their industry. Anyway, everything is delicious, so you can patronize any restaurant during the period of love, just avoid chain restaurants such as McDonald's and Soy Milk King.Like falling in love, falling out of love often happens.Especially the lovelorn that "begins with sex and ends at the dining table" is more difficult to end than breakups on other occasions.After burying flowers and burning manuscripts, touching the scene to make love is still the most painful thing for the lovelorn.Like the above-mentioned restaurants that are open all over the world, can the lovelorn be shocked every step of the way, and the heart will be broken once seeing it?This is like what is often said in Bewitched Boy movies: "See once and hit once". There is no vulgar diet in the world, only vulgar eaters; there are humble men and women, but no humble love.Frost wrote: "If you want to love, you can't leave this world. I can't think of a better place to go." Then if you want to fall in love, you cannot do without the dinner table.Other than that, I can't think of a better place to go either. Just like thousands of adult Chinese men, I am becoming less and less interested in celebrating the New Year every year.The only thing that supports me to greet people with a smile on the morning of the first day of the new year is eating. Mr. Xia Zun said: "Speaking of things to do during the New Year, the first thing that pops into my mind is eating. I recall that when I was young, I looked forward to the New Year every day when the winter came. There are many kinds of fun, the first is to eat a lot.” I believe that for most people born before 1985, if the words “Chinese New Year” or “Spring Festival” can evoke a certain Pavlovian response, it is Not surprising at all.However, on this happy day when every household is busy buying new year’s goods, sharpening their knives, gearing up, and preparing to eat for a few days, there are always some medical experts or nutritionists who frequently send us warnings through newspapers or TV: During the Spring Festival Pay attention to diet, pay attention to health, and never overeat, especially to prevent the onset of gastrointestinal diseases, and so on. These remarks always make me angry.随着短缺经济时代的终结，我们早已将农历年期间集约化的大快朵颐，平均地分摊到３６５天里的每一个月份，每一个星期。不过，与往常相比，春节的吃还是很不一样的。过年的首要工作，就是在法定的假期里，一家人千方百计地聚到一起，其次，就是地球上凡与这一家人具有生物或社会联系的另一些人，按轻重缓急，亲疏远近之分，有秩序地进行互相拜访，互致美好的祝愿。以上的种种活动，都要围绕著饭桌进行。 家庭里的感情，在某种程度上是以味觉来凝聚的。在每一个屋檐下，每一张餐桌上，饭菜有精细，厨艺有高低，但总是熟悉的味道，安全的味道。没有或者短缺了这种味道的团聚，犹如省略了相送的分离，总是局促，不完整的。每一年的春运期间，在车站，在机场，在港口，那潮水般涌动的人海，那满坑满谷的黑头发黑眼睛，行色匆匆的身影，焦灼渴望的眼神，你以为那是什么？那不是一具具互相挤做一团的肉体，而是一颗颗急于互相抚慰的心，一张张急于重温那家庭气味的嘴。无论如何，你总不能认为这些人大都是急着赶回去与家人一道准时收看中央电视台春节文艺晚会的吧。 按照我国传统习俗的现行法律规定，每年只过一次春节，每一次过春节都会放假数天，而且是连续的。因此，此一期间里的吃喝，当然也就比较频繁、比较连续，分量也比较大，当然，这也就像天要下雨，娘要嫁人一样地正常而健康。春节期间，因肠胃不适而到医院求诊者激增，是事实，不过，在明天不用上班，后天也不上班，大后天更不要上班；三十见了全家，初一晤了主要亲戚，初二会了众死党的前提下，把吃得过饱的身体，摊开在浓得化不开的情谊里面，难道不也是一件很快乐的事吗？ 过年是一件必须感受到幸福的事，幸福也必需是一件实实在在的事。当然，移风易俗、例如立例禁止燃放烟花爆竹，是极其必要的。但若再把吃喝也移了去，所谓春节，就会变成一个中期以节食为主，开始和结束时辅以强化体能锻炼（负重状态下）的全民性春季瘦身节了。我只是反对在新春佳节的前夕，以科学的名义对广大过年者实行精神上的恐吓与迫害。积极的、有建设性的忠告，我这里就有一个：春节期间，一家人如无特殊理由，最好不要光顾饭馆，尤其是团年饭。大年夜或年初一仍在那里上班的，除了老板之外，从跑堂、厨师直到收银，心情一般都不会太好，除非你真的很想尝尝别人的乡愁。 少年时，每一次合上《水浒》，也会闭上眼睛，梦想在某一个雪夜，屋檐上突然悄无声息地跳下几条身披斗篷的好汉，一只快船就把我接了走，直往那烟水弥漫的芦苇泊里而去。忠义堂前，完成了简单而又隆重的结拜程序，然后，那个激动人心的时刻终于来临。 激动人心的时刻，其实就是与众兄弟们一道吃酒吃肉。几十年以后，我依然深信，曾令我神魂颠倒的，主要是大碗吃酒和大块吃肉。至于打家劫舍、劫富济贫等一般性作业，倒是还在其次。 金圣叹批曰，一百八个人，便有一百八样出身，一百八样面孔，一百八样性格。照我看，这一百八个人却有一门共同爱好，就是大块吃肉，不管是猪肉、牛肉，亦无论鸡肉、狗肉，大块就好。“两大一吃”，是阮氏兄弟对绿林生活作出的高度概括。阮家不但经营河鲜， 且喜欢用吃来标签生活的各种形态。宋押司死到临头，还要用“想吃板刀面或是馄饨”这样的废话来戏弄于他。梁山泊里的这伙强人，上山之前并非吃不起肉酒，也不是大块不得，其所谓大碗吃酒、大块吃肉，实际上是指一个成年男人一旦脱离了体制、财产或家室等正常的社会生活规范之后，于精神上得到的大解脱。就饮食而论，水浒之酒账肉簿远不及金瓶梅、红楼梦。这样一群人物的饮食生活，并不需要做过于细致的描述，“大碗”加上“大块”，便尽得了“大快活”境界之风流。 大块吃肉的禁忌，现在已经由健康和品味所取代。一个人在下决心去把一大块实实在在的肉咬上一口之前，思想斗争之激烈、之复杂，很可能胜过卢俊义上山或丹麦王子下手。然而，越是禁忌的，就越是挑逗的。想一想，这是多么雄浑的肉啊，像水浒一样的大部头的肉，切割得堂堂正正的立方体。须是猪肉，须是五花肉，曰红烧，曰回锅，曰粉蒸，曰梅菜扣…能大且块者，只有东坡肉这红烧肉家族里的掌门。按《清稗类钞》所下的定义，东坡肉为“猪肉切为长大方块，加酱油及酒，煮至极融化”。杭州的楼外楼，乃与此“长大方块”做楼台之会的最佳地点。于暮春时节，据桌临湖，肉至时，以单掌击案，紫砂罐里那一方方的晶莹剔透，即快活地颤抖不已。此刻，若有薰风自湖面习习而来，便觉那动感的肉香扶摇直上，一阵阵汹涌逼人。一块四四方方、肥瘦相间、煮至极融化的东坡肉入嘴时所散发的快感，要用言词来形容，唯有把专用于猪八戒的那一句“雪狮子向火”搬到自己身上，或者，试试这一句美俚：“ｈｏｔｋｎｉｆｅｉｎｔｈｅｂｕｔｔｅｒ（热刀切牛油）”。此时此刻，满腔的热血全部都涌上心头，嘴边的正、副守门员，已先后被罚离场。口腔如洞开的空门，万众欢腾之下，２０码外的一记猛烈而酣畅的凌空抽射，正以排山倒海之势轰然而至。 当上山已成往事，落草已付笑谈，好在还有大块吃肉的禁忌，令人可偶尝破戒之快，一逞轻狂。好肉不宜独食，最好将一位正处于减肥疗程之关键时期的玉女携上楼外楼，箸肉齐眉，继而做入口状，待她花容失色、肝肠寸断之际，犹自豪迈地大喝一声：“啊呀，今番罢了！”便一口吞了。 一个人最容易察觉到老之将至的时刻，可能并不是某一次例行的体检，也不是三番五次地忘记了赴约的时间，而是在冬天的某个夜晚，突然不能自已地想念起甜食。 医生对我说，原本并不特别嗜甜、甚至是一个厌甜者，之所以会在一个寒夜里动了“甜心”，很可能是季节性忧郁症（ＳＡＤ）的症状。此症多发于中年人，又以冬季最为普遍。由于冬季缺少日照，在脑部神经细胞之间做信号传递的单胺氧化酶（Ｓｅｒｏｔｏｎｉｎ） 的活动降低，从而对情绪和胃口产生了一系列负面影响。严重的还会导致暴食症、强迫症、恐慌症以及社交恐惧症。适当地多进甜食，勤晒太阳，均有助于加速单胺氧化酶在脑部的合成与分解，不失为抵抗忧郁的有效手段。医生还建议说，如果遇上持续的阴天，不妨把家里的灯全部打开，或是前往百货公司那一类的公众场所，在明亮的环境里进行自我治疗。 与我年龄相若的一些朋友，相继都出现了这种症候。排除了“西雅图不眠夜”的暗示，确认与糖尿病无关，然后，我认为是时候遵医嘱打开房间里所有的灯，往咖啡杯里加入第二块方糖，想一想，为什么过去因吃糖而快乐，现在却因不快乐而吃糖。 中年是下午茶，董桥所说的下午茶是英式的，免不了要加糖。 甜是婴儿最初的滋味记忆，糖果则同时带来了早期的诱惑和禁忌。我第一次听说盐来自海水，便立即把一大片沙滩幻想成砂糖。人类的亲糖，乃基于如下美妙的生化反应：食物的滋味分子渗入味蕾，味感细胞的微形纤毛在滋味分子的刺激下，经由味蕾所连接的神经，将滋味讯息以电流脉冲形式传递至大脑中枢后的脑回下部，最终导致味觉。不过，滋味分子只有达到一定浓度，才能在脑部形成味觉反应。足以促成味觉反应的食物分子浓度，五味中以苦最低，甜最高，其次是咸。这意味着，人吃不了苦，却可以心满意足地接受甜的抚慰。 在造字上，五味中只有“甜”体现了舌头与蜜、糖相依为命的直接经验。咸主要用以吊味，酸辣制造刺激，只有甜，洋溢着宁静和安全。 味觉细胞在舌头上的功能性分布也是这样。感觉酸味的味觉细胞驻守在舌头的两侧，感觉苦味的潜伏在舌底，感觉咸味的分布在舌头的前沿，而感觉甜味的味觉细胞，恰好就集中于最敏感的舌尖。漠视或绕舌尖而行的饮食，就像没有情书的恋爱以及未经恋爱的婚姻。 一切都被安排得如此妥当！只是由于其他滋味在我们成长过程中的不断加入，际遇和个体的差异渐渐拉开，从对蛀牙的防范，到对热量的躲避，糖被淡化甜被稀释，但是，糖依然如霜降般覆盖着、保护着每一个人的童年记忆。与其把中年嗜糖诊断做衰老的信号，不如视之为一场倒叙的淡入。在那些遥远的山岭上，甜蜜而洁白的霜已经开始解冻，它们就要汇成一条河流，把我们安全地渡返。说吧，记忆，就像嗜甜软的张爱玲所说的那样，回忆若有气味，应是“甜而稳妥，像记得分明的快乐，甜而惆怅，像忘却了的忧愁”。 我去小榄看一个朋友，近晚饭时，又来了若干朋友的朋友。其中一人提议，去吃一点特别的东西。一行人穿巷过桥，从后门潜入一家饭店，又绕到厨房一角，掀开一堆纸皮箱，打开灯，笼子里是一只眯着眼睛的猫头鹰。 我不吃猫头鹰。很久以前、起码是政府颁布有关法令之前，我曾吃过一次。只能炖汤的猫头鹰，苦涩，谈不上好吃。另外，上面提到的那一只，猛地一看，跟我女儿正在悉心调教的那只大眼睛ｆｕｒｂｙ，实在有几分相似。 就像绝大多数的野生动物，猫头鹰据说也有疗效，主要是明目。本草纲目则说，去毛去肠，油炸，食而能治疟疾，其肝则为法术家所用。尽管人们普遍相信，到目前为止，治疗疟疾最有效的药物依然是奎宁，不过因猫头鹰有惊人的夜视能力，故“明目”这种象征性的暗示，与驴鞭壮阳、虎骨强关节一样，更不失为一种顽固而可爱的思维方式。 不过，这种信仰也不总是局限于形而下的阶段——王军霞跑得快，偏偏倒是吃了马俊仁炖的甲鱼，而不是兔子。滋补是一种很玄的东西，至于野生的是否就比驯养的滋补，并无充足的科学根据，主要以经验相传，有时甚至只是文字游戏，玄而又玄。“本草”一类的典籍里面，当然有大量的验方，但是，一个笃信吃了狮子肉，就会“壮胆助神，雄健威武”，吞下狮子的大便，则能“淤血清散，杀灭百虫”兽部者，却往往会忽视一碗米饭也具有“益气、止烦、止渴、止泄痢、调合五脏、聪明耳目”谷部之神效。在国产雪茄也声称能止咳化痰的情况下，超过五十万年的人类驯养动物史，显然还不足说服一个“滋补”的迷信者放弃对未经驯养动物的垂涎。在某种程度上，北京周口店人一天的饮食，比人民大会堂的国宴更能使他心驰神往：早点，是一只真正的野山鸡；到了中午，来了一顿剑齿虎大会餐；最气人的是，夜宵时分，这些被宠坏的，甚至连狗都看不上，偏要把一头狼弄来烧烤。 与此同时，他还有这样一种模糊然而坚定的信念：野兽比人生猛，野生动物比驯养动物生猛，欠生猛的人吃了这些生猛的动物，就会变得像原始人那样比较生猛。好汉，我祝你金枪不倒，祝你万寿无疆，同时也希望你在新千年的那天深夜没有看过电视，因为我见到，世纪曙光初现的那一刻，基里巴斯岛上那些南太平洋土著，仍然意态安详地在沙滩上跳着不紧不慢的舞蹈。相比之下，挤在纽约或者香港街头的那些人的动静，可就要生猛得多。 除此之外，似乎也找不出更多的证据来推翻“野生比驯养滋补”的神话。周作人说的比较诚恳：“有些飞走的小动物，不必搜求来吃。既有普通的鸡豚也就可以够了，无须太过馋痨，一心想吃个别的肉。”话已经过去了大半个世纪，今人对于“个别的肉”的景仰，对于那些妄图以普遍扼杀个别的行径之愤慨，却是与日俱增。譬如，在商家常常以养殖鱼假冒同类野生鱼的险恶环境下，香港的海鲜专家张文生先生，便练就了一身反欺诈的绝技，他在著作中指出，人工养殖的鱼因较少接触阳光，所以看上去神情有点呆滞。 神神乎其技。只是我担心，若由像我这种又馋又急的来执行此观察任务，最后弄到神情呆滞的，很可能是鄙人而不是鱼——回到猫头鹰之夜，那天晚上，我们吃了榄角蒸鲮鱼，皆水乡土产。亲切，熟悉，犹如邻家女孩。 有一个笑话说：馒头和面条打架，馒头打输了，回去搬救兵，请来花卷和包子助阵。兵临面条城下，突见一包方便面在阵前施施然而过，馒头拍马上前，大喝一声：“且慢，别以为烫了一头卷发，俺就认不得你了！” 烫了一头卷发的这一位，可能是最能代表２０世纪的一种食品。有人认为，２０世纪的两大发明，首推手提电话和方便面。前者满足了人类沟通的需要，后者则满足了人类对于“方便”与“即时”的原始欲望。第一包方便面，是日本食品制造商安藤百福在１９５８年创造的。它在全世界的影响力，可以与ＳＯＮＹ、卡拉ＯＫ以及黑泽明等量齐观。目前，在市场上出售的方便面计有７２０种，日本人平均每年每人吃掉４０包以上，香港去年进口３７３８吨，成为全球最大买家，美国以１６１０吨居次位。全球的方便面年销售量高达４３４ 亿个，年销售额逾３千亿港元。中国是全世界消耗方便面最多的国家，全国人民一年要吃掉１６０亿个。 方便面的暧昧之处，在于以简单和效率无情地否定了餐厅、否定了厨房的同时，又蓄意地营造出一种与正常的烹饪、进食过程相类似的氛围：省略了炒菜前分门别类的准备以及炒菜时的手忙脚乱，但是保留了加入两种或以上调味品或配料的程序，按照印在某些方便面包装上的指示，这些被分成小包的调味粉、麻油或脱水蔬菜、鸡蛋，在投入上甚至还有明确的先后之分；泡一包面，也不必像煮速冻水饺那样，要动锅动灶地花上十几分钟，但是保留了烧开水和灌水这样的基本动作。再加上，自己的碗，自己的筷，有汤，有温度，又成功地排斥了饼干和面包。此外，吃惯方便面的都懂得，灌入开水后，还需将碗略盖片刻。很显然，这是对蒸或者焖的模仿，不过，只要一分钟。一分钟后，竟也有催人泪下的温情扑面而来————至少，这是一种面对面的感觉。 作为一种叙事媒体和象征系统，方便面像卡拉ＯＫ一样，皆具有在简化过程的同时制造出一种煞有介事的情境之功能。对于后者，《时代》杂志有这样的评价：甘地和毛泽东发动的革命改变了亚洲的白天，日本人井上大辅发明的卡拉ＯＫ则改变了亚洲的夜晚。我个人认为，设若一个亚洲人在唱过卡拉ＯＫ之后感到有些饥饿，却又急着回家或者懒得出门，那么，方便面就有机会进一步改变卡拉ＯＫ结束后的那些更深的深夜。另外，午夜１２点左右，泡一碗方便面坐在电视机前，绝对有助于这种情境的深化。大多数的方便面广告，也会聪明地选择在这个时段播出。方便面的种种不同味道，如海鲜、牛肉等等，很难吃出个究竟，基本上要靠广告激发。在这个意义上，作为方便面之豪华版的杯面和碗面的出现，可能是这个行业的自杀行为。个别的碗面，竟真有一块熟牛肉封以锡纸附送。纸杯和纸碗否定了碗，真牛肉否定了牛肉的虚构，它的败兴，无异于在ＫＴＶ里面放了整晚的原唱。 １９世纪末，美国化学家Ｊ·多兰斯发明了加水加热后即可食用的罐头汤。到１９９５年，跨国企业约瑟夫·坎贝尔公司生产的“金宝汤”仅在美国本土就售出４０亿罐。从罐头汤到方便面，从便利、即兴、廉价，到谈不上好吃，也不能算难吃，但是煞有介事———— 还有人要继续谈论２０世纪吗？我看，还不如开一罐金宝清鸡汤，泡它一包方便面吃吃算了。 经常客满的饭馆有一种不良习气，就是搭台。你是两位先来，领位小姐在将你二人引至一张四人餐桌之前会事先告知：如果稍后还有其他客人，这张桌子将会被搭台；如果你是后到，而此时餐厅已经客满，她就会问：座位倒是还有两个，搭台你介不介意？ 语气的协商难掩知会的胁迫。搭和被搭的，心里虽是老大的不情愿，不过特定时间里的这顿特定的饭若非吃不可，你就注定无路可逃。利润要追求最大化，资源要得到最合理的配置，人家要效率要得正大光明，我等总不能为了捍卫一个完整及封闭性的私人空间而剥夺了他人或者放弃了自己的吃饭权利，并且把此事说成是我们所要的公正吧。 搭就搭吧，浑身上下的不自在就从点菜开始。若大家想到的是同一道菜，则点菜的先后就会变得十分敏感，对方的抢先有可能陷我于人云亦云，若为了体现个性之尊严而另作它选，多少又心有不甘。不同起跑线的连锁反应还包括：点菜在先者的菜先行抵达餐桌之后，你将如何摆正自己的目光与他人的菜肴及其吃相之间的关系，简言之，你看还是不看？饭菜是别人的香，是不好意思的人性；非礼勿视，是自我克制的教化，而此刻的两难局面是：故意别过头去无疑是鄙夷的姿态，但是近距离之下的惊鸿一瞥显然更难避免。思前想后，心下竟是说不出的懊恼。 比较起来，一对一的搭台比较容易应付，因为双方都没有必须交谈的同伴，因此大部分的尴尬可以避免。遇到这种单挑的局面，我就会想起南京某公厕的大解处，由于它被设计成双人面向的格局，因而有一点像餐馆里的所谓火车座。尴尬是难免的，好在大家都没有开口的必要，相对无言地埋头片刻也就驼鸟过去了。至于１２人的大圆桌被搭了五六组人，乱是乱，不过乱成这样倒也好办了，捉对厮杀，互不干扰，就像是一个主持人中途无故离席了的小组讨论会场，场面因大乱而大治，尴尬也因分摊而冲淡。 算下来，最难将息的是四人餐桌搭两组食客这种桥牌局面，不幸这正是饭馆里最常用的餐桌和最常见的客人。所有的局促都来自于两组人之间必要的谈话。同一话题的不同意见，可能会点燃寻衅、找碴的火头，一致或趋同的看法，则有故意套瓷之嫌。如果说吃饭之外的话题还可以回避，那么对于菜的评论就在所难免了，同样的一道例汤，人家嫌淡，你偏说咸了，这不是找架吵吗？ 你在饭桌上吃饭 吃饭的人在饭桌上看你 别人装饰了你的饭桌 你装饰了别人的饭 在各种公共场所与陌生人作亲密接触的机会其实比比皆是，即使是无需搭台的餐厅，邻桌的谈话有时也会互相干扰。只是当陌生人一旦被搭在同一张台上，“台”就在顷刻间自动生成了一种关系和一层意义，在饮食男女的意义上，餐桌相当于床，卧榻之旁岂容他人酣睡！受到“自我”的不可抗拒的驱使，搭台者往往会下意识地做一些自己也意想不到的小动作，企图将已经统一的市场再度细分。比如，挪动茶壶构筑防卫性的壁垒，立起菜谱展开间隔性的屏风，最终以碗碟摆成的数个小圈子来完成圈地。 其实，与其各自别扭，不如以“相逢何必”的豁达，将计就计地做了一处，逼我们搭台？好，我就来个勾搭成“奸”，速配成功，奸诈到把几组人和几组菜并为一组，一锅汤两组人喝，一笼虾饺三个人吃，四份小费也只付一份，气死那个开店的以及ＴＭＤ效率。