Chapter 6 Writing Foodism-4

Intermittently, I have been writing "Writing Foodism" for more than half a year, and during this period, I have never stopped eating and drinking.So above the dinner, there are gourmet friends who put forward various opinions in the name of readers.Unfortunately, I was focused on eating at the time, so I basically used vague words to prevaricate. Dissenting opinions on writing about food actually reflect the various realms of human beings in terms of diet.The motivation for real eating is to be hungry and greedy, and to be satisfied from outside to inside; the motivation to write about eating is to find hunger, to find gluttony, and to be satisfied from inside to outside.Thinking about lust when you are full and warm, teaches you how sad the human nature is that you still can’t get rid of the vulgar taste after eating full. After that, there is still a kind of dissatisfaction in spirit.This kind of dissatisfaction, from an elegant point of view, is called a symbol of depression; , there are significant differences.We know that, even if it is only in words, those with "after" are more controversial than those without "after".

Even if it is the same dish, it is difficult to avoid the trouble of being difficult to adjust. "The Doctrine of the Mean" said: "Everyone eats and drinks, and seldom knows the taste." This statement is both arbitrary and arrogant, "A child is not a fish, how can you know the joy of a fish?" In addition, anyone who eats will be able to know its taste.The only difference lies in the perception and memory of taste by each individual, each individual tongue.This column aims to mobilize all available text resources to awaken this kind of memory. Once the memory is triggered, the feast of taste will be served in different ways in everyone's heart, and it is also the time for the text to retire.

People are often keen to study the cause and effect between pornography and sexual crimes, but never take seriously the connection between words and taste, which is really embarrassing. According to Marcel Proust, the sense of taste is enough to awaken memories to dispel the boredom of reality and resist the anxiety caused by the passage of time.The famous passage about "Little Madeleine" in the prologue describes: "The smell and taste will last a long time after the body is destroyed. Lively." You see, exaggeration is a common tactic in food writing, and an inexperienced and self-aware chef will usually lighten the seasoning to leave room for remedy, and the order of the dishes is also the same.It can be seen that the way of cooking and eating is very different from writing.If dating is like eating, then writing about food is a love letter to food.I wonder how many people there are who have done this kind of deed and who dare to swear that they have never exaggerated their perception of themselves and each other in love letters.

Pot is one of the common cooking utensils used by Cantonese people, and it is also a general term for pot. Cantonese cuisine was all the rage in the 1980s, and stewed and stewed dishes became new favorites on dining tables everywhere.Nowadays, Cantonese cuisine has flourished and declined in areas outside of Guangdong, and the solitary words of cooking are left in the teeth and cheeks for aftertaste. In Mandarin and Cantonese, the word "boil" is pronounced with the first tone, and in Taiwanese Mandarin, it is pronounced with the fourth tone. However, in Beijing, Shanghai and other cities where the word "boil" used to be ubiquitous, it is preferred to pronounce it with the third tone.The different tones of reading "clay pot" create different feelings, just like eating "cooking dishes" from various places.Those who read Yinping never go forward, and their voices are like the inclusive "bao", which is just like the trend of Cantonese cuisine sweeping the country in those years; Hug" and the like.When you read the sound, you feel that you are struggling, which seems to mean seeking perfection through compromise.

In the Qusheng and Shangsheng areas, clay pots are often confused with casserole.Mr. Hu Jingru pointed out: In terms of materials, the casserole is the clay embryo in the pottery, and the pot is the tile embryo. The fire resistance of the two is different, so the dishes cooked are also different.Casserole is not suitable for high heat, so Suyang dishes, such as lion head casserole, fish head casserole, and vegetable heart casserole, are mostly stewed in a slow fire; To put it bluntly, it is nothing more than a clay pot.However, in my memory, I don’t seem to realize that there were nouveau riche people who didn’t like Cantonese cuisine and despised it with "Wa Ke Lei Ming". Today, I really regret it.

When "boil" is used as a verb, all kinds of lyrics and music are considered to refer to cooking with a slow fire.In fact, the clay pot can withstand a slow fire or a strong fire, depending on the different materials in the pot, which is a bit like the character of the Cantonese.If you want to emphasize the difference between a pot and a casserole, it is the strong point of a pot that it can withstand intense fire. Only in this way can you "force" the taste of the food in the pot to achieve a "crispy" effect, just like extorting a confession by torture.Only in the sense of making porridge or soup is the word used to describe a slow, patient, and bordering on boring long activity. "Talking on the phone" is talking on the phone for a long time, and talking about some irrelevant topics on the phone.If you overhear someone talking about "burning the Internet", I believe it is mostly related to BBS.In addition, Cantonese also use "pot" (smashing the pot) to refer to the breakup of lovers or husbands and wives, which is what the northerners call "blowing";

The misreading of pot has long led to the failure of non-local chefs. Between "baolaibaoqu", another Cantonese slang "pay the bill" was also treated as "pay the bill" in the same case.After a Cantonese customer has struggled with one or two "treasures" in a Cantonese restaurant in Beijing, he will cleverly say in the Peking opera he has just learned: "Miss, please--pay the bill. " The Yi language from the foot of the Great Wall or the banks of the Mudanjiang brings contempt: "Sir, do you mean to pay the bill?" Reports about the possible carcinogenicity of "Lao Huo Soup" do not seem to be enough to arouse Cantonese people's "re-recognition" of soup.In comparison, "re-understanding Western values" is simple and easy to do, but it may be quite difficult to make Cantonese people treat a bowl of soup with this attitude.

For the vast majority of soup drinkers in Guangdong, their understanding of soup can only be "deepened", and there is no "renewal" at all: soup is the whole heritage of Guangdong's food culture, and it is the happiness of daily life for men, women and children in Guangdong Province source.Staying away from soup and water for several days in a row will lead to rising false fire, indigestion, bad breath, and ugly appearance in mild cases, and may affect the view of life and the world in severe cases. The belief in Lao Huo Tang is maintained by emotion and reason.Qu Dajun's "Guangdong New Language" says: "The land in the south of the Lingnan is where the sun is accumulated and the summer is damp. Therefore, those who enter Guangdong should not be careless when eating and living." Intellectually, Cantonese people firmly believe that decoctions and medicines have the same origin. Without the continuous irrigation and conditioning of soup, it is inevitable to suffer from all kinds of diseases.In addition, the hot weather wreaks havoc on appetite, resulting in reduced food intake and nutritional deficiencies.Therefore, it is necessary to enter liquid food to have a nourishing effect.In terms of operation, it is to combine dried and fresh melons, fruits, vegetables, fish, chicken, and duck with medicinal materials, and to choose a dish that is sensitive to nature and man by observing and inquiring about the seasons, temperature, humidity, and the complexion, blood, and blood of the soup drinker. The recipe is poured with the water of the Pearl River that has nurtured generations of Cantonese people, and the essence of the ingredients in the pot is boiled over a slow fire, and the work is completed in one soup.

To cook a good old fire soup, time and patience must not be omitted.In general, a standard boil time is about the length of two official football games (preferably including halftime).In this process, listen to the water, look at the fire, look at the clock, and wait for the soup drinker to knock on the door—the feelings related to soup begin to grow from this, and it is not easy to understand with outsiders.As for the nourishment, satisfaction and happiness when drinking the soup, it goes without saying that it is all written on the face.The authentic drinking method does not use a spoon. Therefore, when the soup bowl covers the face, the warmth overflows from the eyes wave after wave.When it comes to soup, Cantonese people think of home, grandma and wife first, and then nourishing, moistening, nourishing and other things.Soup is feminine. A Cantonese mother has used soup all her life to maintain the warmest and most intimate emotions in the family.If you don't understand this point, you will never reach the other shore in terms of the spiritual realm of tasting Cantonese cuisine.

Other than the questionable raw materials, there is also a problem of order that people from other provinces cannot get used to.In the early days of reform and opening up, it is understandable that Guangdong took the first step in policy. When it comes to the opening of the Cantonese at the dinner table, it would make a person from other provinces mess up. right way.In other provinces, soup is for entertainment; in Guangdong, soup is a prelude to a feast and a mobilization.Drinking soup before meals can help digestion, and drinking soup after meals can easily cause gastric dysfunction has long been established in medicine.

Louis Guyi, the royal chef of King Louis XIV of France, has a famous saying in his "Soup Book": "Soup is inseparable from the table. No matter how many dishes there are, no soup is like no hostess on the table." Changed from Cantonese, Maybe they will unanimously think: "Without soup, it is like seeing only the hostess on the table without dishes." On a June day, on the streets of Chongqing, one of the "Four Stoves", burying your head in another smaller stove - spicy hot pot, is something you can remember for a lifetime.Now, as long as you go to the "Chuan Guo Romance" on Huanshi East Road, Guangzhou, and go straight to the third floor, you can immediately relive this memory. The spicy hot pot that Sichuan people make for Guangzhou people is improved.The one in Chongqing is to divide a large pot radially into multiple compartments, like the enclosure built by the Hakka people in Guangdong. When eating, one person occupies one compartment, and the bottomless pot is thick and thick. Fishing in old soup.The hot pot moved to Guangzhou, in addition to no longer using old soup, but also adopted a diversion measure, that is, a steep S-shaped metal dam was built in the center of the pot to separate the spicy soup base from the clear soup base. At the table, the spicy soup and the clear soup embrace each other, and the "pot" of the Tai Chi picture is served. Known as "Mandarin Duck Pot", this kind of "spicy and non-spicy" is actually more exciting than the all-spicy one.The double stimulation comes from the sharp contrast: you see, because there is a lot of spicy oil in the soup base of the spicy soup, the same fire can burn a pot of soup into two completely different scenes: just as spicy This side of the restaurant has been impatiently overwhelmed, but the clear soup on the other side is still a pool of spring water in the south of the Yangtze River, the kind that has been wrinkled; It gets weirder and weirder, but one side is the rippling blue waves under Xu Zhimo's Cambridge Bridge, and the other is the galloping lava in Dante's Hell; It's Zhuang Zhou's casual.Holding a pair of chopsticks in your hand, gasping for air, wandering back and forth between the shores of hell and heaven, looking back at the past and looking forward to the future... how much you want to shout a few slogans for it. When the cups and plates are messed up and the eyes are drunk, look at the endgame in the pot again, but the Gaoxia is still there. The spicy soup and the clear soup that were once distinct have already been bloody and bloody. , It is a good time to shout "pay the bill". The so-called spicy is the stimulation from the tip of the tongue to the mouth; numbness is the impact on the human nervous system.This is the feeling that general Sichuan cuisine can usually bring us.However, what Mala Hot Pot teaches you is that spicy food is more spicy, and there is general anesthesia after local anesthesia.When talking about smoke-flavor type, tangerine peel type, strange-flavor type, and home-cooked type, how about "one dish, one style, one hundred dishes, one hundred flavors", the spicy hot pot is served on one end, the kind of hearty and transparent, the kind of lucidity after being paralyzed. The taste and shape of Sichuan cuisine and even all the delicacies in memory are completely negated, leaving only the state of being completely enlightened and empty of all five flavors. Gibran (probably also a spicy addict) said: "Beauty has captured us, but more beauty has set us free." After eating spicy hot pot, you can say: "Spicy has captured us, but ma has set us free. "In fact, every experience in a spicy hot pot restaurant is an adventure of taste and nerves being captured seven times and life and death. See fat, economy class seat also see reluctantly.Sometimes seat belts are too economical to buckle up.As for the flat surface that the stewardesses call the "small table board", it always hits the stomach halfway, and it can no longer be adjusted.To avoid embarrassment, I had no choice but to pretend to be preoccupied and lack appetite as soon as I got on the plane, and the situation became more and more serious day by day. When I got angry, I flew first class.The first-class seats are two people in a row, comfortable and spacious, like a couple's seat in a movie theater.After lift-off, pull out the "small table board" from the left armrest and adjust it back and forth. There is absolutely no problem between the belly and the edge of the table.Then, I saw the stewardess getting busy, spreading the starched snow-white tablecloth, laying out a full set of silver knives and forks, wiping her hands, wiping her face, ordering a glass of pre-dinner wine, and looking at today's appetizers... um, Prawn cocktail, not a bad start.The appetizer, foie gras, smoked salmon roll, caviar, is quite satisfactory.For the main course, there are three choices, chicken, fish or beef.Just beef.Thank you, you're welcome. In the first-class flight of Air China from Beijing to Hong Kong, the main dish once included roast duck.Even though the noodle cakes were a bit "Gen" when biting, and the skin and meat were not separated, I still made two portions in one go.At an altitude of 20,000 feet and a speed of 600 miles per hour, this Peking duck drove away all the ducks in the taste memory. There are three types of cheese here, Dutch, British, and Italian.Want some grapes?Dessert is coming soon. Want more wine?Thanks, can I have a look at your cigar box...sorry, this is a joke. Eating and drinking like rituals, we flew over the Yellow River and the Yangtze River.The nearly three-hour voyage is just as long as the time required for a sumptuous dinner.The difference is that after drinking and eating on the ground, you just want to move around, but what can you do on the plane?The only activity is going to the toilet, but after returning to the seat, I found that I was still sitting in the same position in the toilet, waiting for food.How about some activities?Darling, let's hit some drafts... While thinking wildly, the stewardess floated in like an angel again, Yi quietly lowered the porthole, and a sweet darkness immediately filled the cockpit and stomach.Then, also silently, a nearly infinitely transparent dark blue blanket gently covered her body.What else?Go to sleep, you have forgotten that there is such a beautiful but useless activity after you are full and warm. There are two things I can assure you: First, the first-class catering service is definitely worth the fare (international routes are usually much better than inland routes); second, if you eat like this, you will soon find that the next Possibly book double first class tickets at a time.The situation thus became more complicated and more serious. Cantonese people watched Hong Kong TV for 20 years, and gradually saw the way.Recently, some viewers wrote an article questioning the problem of eating in Hong Kong TV dramas: Why is it always fried dough sticks and white porridge with soy milk for breakfast?Why, Western food must be called steak?Why, didn't you go to the teahouse for lunch?Why, actually take the pigeon as supper? Dear viewers, first of all, it is the first level of facts: deep-fried dough sticks and white porridge with soy milk are the most popular and common breakfast among Hong Kong people.Of course, as a society full of Chinese and Western cultures, "Xizao" has no shortage of diners.As far as the family breakfast of most ordinary people is concerned, fried dough sticks and white porridge with soy milk are an absolutely true portrayal.As for the late-night snack of the pigeons that surprised the audience in Guangzhou, it is not a fabrication.At two or three o'clock in the morning in this city that never sleeps, there are many people who eat lobster, abalone, and Japanese food in the "popular spots" (nightlife concentration places) such as Causeway Bay or Tsim Sha Tsui, not to mention pigeons.Just like the family in "True Love", they claim to bring bird's nest regardless of day or night. Next, there is another level of fact, a kind of "sorry (Cantonese, meaning sorry)": Why do Guangzhou audiences "can't see that mouth-watering scene on the TV camera" question?In fact, this is not because "the screenwriter is lazy" and the director is "poor as a donkey", which makes "the taste of Hong Kong people seem mentally retarded and ridiculous".To put it bluntly, this is because the capitalist who paid for the TV series does not let you see it.The vast majority of Hong Kong dramas are filmed in factories rather than on-site. The capitalists cannot afford the money and time, let alone a team of Chinese, Western, and dim sum chefs serving on-site.Scenes related to eating strictly abide by the principle of "sparing as much as you can" (save as much as you can), unless it is a drama that focuses on eating and drinking, like TVB's "Golden Jade Mantang".In ATV's "Across the World", Tian Ruini, a wealthy daughter, spent a lot of effort to coax Tan Yaowen to the Maldives. On a night of wind and rain, the two drove a domestically produced "Great Wall" in the hotel red".Of course, although "Great Wall Red" is a low-priced product, it tastes pretty good.However, such details are also enough to make Guangzhou audience "astonished". To be honest, being able to open "Great Wall Red" instead of using black tea bags is already very thoughtful, very willing, and very worthy of the audience.I even suspect that the cigars Shi Xiu and Tao Dayu are holding are probably made in the Philippines, in short, they are things that do not match the identities of the characters.Therefore, if you see the characters in the play actually chewing a steak, it goes without saying that this time it must be a big production.In most cases, what we see is one person making a gesture, and another person comes up: "Well, give me a cup of coffee (please give me a cup of coffee)." Watching the eating and drinking scenes produced by domestic counterparts, Hong Kong TV people with the aura of "food paradise" on their heads will be ashamed; in the same way, eating and drinking in Hong Kong TV dramas after watching domestic TV dramas also requires a certain amount of psychological and physical endurance ability.Looking back at those charming children in Japanese dramas living on instant noodles, the audience in Guangzhou may be even more "unacceptable". It's not surprising to meet a bunch of drunks in a sauna; it's magical to spot a drunken animal, like a shrimp, in that white mist. The new-style Shanghai restaurant "Xianqiangfang Chuancai" is famous in Shanghai for its innovative Shanghai-style dishes.The most talked about by diners is their "sauna shrimp".Cooking is actually not complicated—at least it is much simpler than a sauna: put a pile of pebbles in a casserole, heat the pot with stones, soak live river prawns in high-strength white wine (commonly used is sorghum wine) to After getting very drunk, pour it on the stone in the pot and cook it. Because liquor is very "grabbing", so as long as the quality of the shrimp can be guaranteed, the taste of "sauna shrimp" is not much different from the common "flame shrimp".The key to the popularity and signature of this dish is that it creates a certain atmosphere.When the drunken prawns rushed into the pot recklessly, it was too late to say it, and then it was soon, with a "swish", like a simulated nuclear explosion in a laboratory, and like a pop star's appearance ceremony, in an instant A white mist with the smell of wine sprang up from the hot stone, then rose into the air, filling half of the dining table.This "decisive moment" often wins applause at the dinner table.Between talking and laughing, the scene in the casserole of "the world is turbulent, the clouds and the water are furious" has been scattered and rained.Pick up the chopsticks, pick up the chopsticks, what are you waiting for? Some people say that eating the delicious "Longjing Shrimp" at "Lou Wai Lou" or other restaurants near the lake in Hangzhou feels like the tip of the tongue has reached the Su Causeway.The Sauna Shrimp, by contrast, feels like a plunge into a sauna.For guests who often visit the sauna after drinking, the stimulation brought by "sauna shrimp" is not limited to the tongue, it is likely to be the whole body, and their feelings about this dish must be different from ordinary people.One of my gourmet friends who has this habit once commented with regret: "After the 'sauna', if the waiter can massage the whole body of the shrimp one by one, the shrimp meat will be more refreshing. Slippery, this dish can at least double the price." I have a dream, a dream of being able to sit in the morning light with a clear head and blissful bliss at a modest table -- and eat my breakfast.This is a dream that has not been given up for ten years.In other words, apart from flying, I haven't had a serious breakfast on the ground in fifteen years. According to a magazine survey, nearly half of Guangzhou residents do not eat breakfast for a long time.Doctors and nutritionists have said a lot about the benefits of eating breakfast.However, everyone who skips breakfast has their own reasons, the most common being busy.The remaining reasons, I think, are the following three: One, it's not tasty.Whole-wheat bread, cornflakes, and oatmeal, which are fashionable because they are rich in fiber, are not suitable for your appetite; porridge, fried dough sticks, and rice rolls that are suitable for your appetite have long since disappeared from the streets because of their thin profits.The few who insist on getting up early and selling breakfast to us, try it and you will know that this kind of bad stuff can only be done by people who don't eat breakfast themselves. 2. Whether or not to eat breakfast depends to a considerable extent on one's view of the morning.When we lived with our parents, someone sincerely hoped that we would grow up quickly and would not give up the first such opportunity, so this breakfast was carefully arranged for us.After running away from home, waking up without breakfast helps to add a sense of wandering to every morning in a foreign land. Since then, I have given up breakfast aesthetically.I have to wait until a certain day after I get married to bring a person back from the maternity hospital, and sincerely hope that this person will grow up quickly (especially in the morning). That long-lost sense of fullness in the morning. Third, you must get up in the time period recognized by most people as "morning", otherwise, there is a meal, but it is lunch. Whether you eat it or not, some people still enjoy it.In the 20th year of Guangxu (1894), Kong Lingyi, the 76th generation grandson of Confucius, and his wife went to Beijing with their mother to celebrate the birthday of Empress Dowager Cixi, and presented Cixi with a table of breakfast. The contents of the menu are as follows: Sea bowl dishes four items: Eight Immortals duck, pot-roasted carp. Four medium-bowl dishes: steamed white fungus, gourd Daji wings, duck soup with longevity characters, and braised fish bones. Four large bowls of dishes: bird's nest with ten thousand characters gold and silver duck nuggets, bird's nest with longevity character red and white shredded duck, bird's nest with no word three delicacies duck shreds, bird's nest with mushroom and fat chicken. Six dishes: sweet-scented osmanthus wings, stir-fried water bamboo, fried pork with sprouts and leeks, cooked fresh shrimp, golden legs made with honey, fried cucumber sauce. The second product of the disc: hanging stove hunting, hanging stove duck. Four dishes of steamed food: four dishes of stove food, four dishes of pig food, and four dishes of sheep food. Four pastries: Shouzi oil cake, Shouzi sweet-scented osmanthus cake, Baishou peach, and Ruyi roll. Bird's Nest Eight Immortals Soup, Shredded Chicken Braised Noodles. After seeing this menu, I don't even want to eat breakfast.This old man ate up the breakfast of our whole life before we came into being. Spring is warm and flowers are blooming. It is not the time to talk about crabs, and you should not even think about it.Suddenly I moved my crab thoughts at an inappropriate time, due to a piece of news related to hairy crabs. ——Because Chinese river crabs are multiplying in large numbers in Northern California, the United States, causing damage to local fish resources and water conservancy systems, and even threatening flood control dams, the State Fish and Game Bureau ordered that these alien creatures be shot and killed.Thousands of crabs are crushed into crab sauce under the giant wheel of the road roller. The scientific name of Chinese river crab is "Chinese mitten crab" (Eriocheir Sinensis), the best among river crabs, commonly known as "hairy crab".In the mid-1980s, hairy crabs were imported into the U.S. market, but the local environmental protection department banned them in order to protect the local ecology.What California authorities are currently struggling with are escaped crabs and their ABC offspring that were transported or retailed before and after the ban was implemented.Previously, a large number of crabs were also found in the Seine and Rhine rivers in Europe. This was the result of Chinese tourists bringing them in when they entered the country, but they were confiscated by the customs and then thrown into the river to release them. The law is one thing, but whether it tastes good and whether it will be eaten is another.Since the ecological environment of the natural spawning grounds in the Yangtze Estuary began to deteriorate in the early 1980s, parent crabs were overfished, resulting in a sharp decline in crab seedlings, and the value of hairy crabs skyrocketed.Although the artificial propagation technology has been widely promoted in recent years, the production of hairy crabs has continued to rise and the price has stabilized and dropped. Unfortunately, the quality of crab seedlings has deteriorated, and the opportunity to eat good breeds of hairy crabs in China has long been lost.Most of the exported crabs are top grade, and may even be the pure breed of Yangcheng Lake that is almost out of print.This old beauty actually uses our method of destroying counterfeit CDs to spread charcoal on the delicacy of "both chelated and tender jade, and the shell is convex with red fat and fragrant". It's not that foreigners don't eat crabs, it's just that foreigners still eat crabs, and they still stay at the primary level of "eating large pieces of meat". The subtle artistic conception of "Little Fresh". Since the German merchant ships moored on the Huangpu River in the 1930s brought crab seedlings to the waters of the Rhine, the Baltic Sea and the Thames, Chinese crabs have formed a huge overseas crab family.We can only hope that foreigners can repent and let go of the past, so that overseas Chinese crabs can fully integrate into the mainstream tastes of the local mainstream society. The first time I read the word "shark's fin" was in Lu Xun's "Bringing Doctrine": "When you see a shark's fin, you don't just throw it on the road to show that it is 'civilian'. As long as there is nourishment, it is like a carrot with friends." Eat it like cabbage." I didn't understand the "bringing doctrine", but the word "shark's fin" left a deep impression on a fourth-grade elementary school student in the age of hunger, and hoped that one day he could "bring" it and eat it. As one of the "Eight Treasures of the Sea" at the Manchu and Han Banquets, wing dishes are the pinnacle of Chinese cuisine and have always been a symbol of wealth.Today, when the price of seafood is extremely "violent" and the word "fishing profit" is very vivid, shark fin is the only thing that I think is worth waiting to be slaughtered in restaurants.It is a very troublesome thing to cook shark's fin. It is said: "Shark's fin is hard to rot, and it needs to be boiled for two days to break it from rigidity to softness." process.In the long process of "destroying rigidity into softness", old chicken, Jinhua ham, tangerine peel, lean meat, etc. must be added to accompany the stew. Even in an industrialized kitchen, a responsible chef must cook a qualified shark's fin. It will take at least five or six hours. It cannot be said that it is unreasonable to spend money to buy it from a restaurant when you can't afford the time and effort. The added value of shark fin price lies in its post-production.In the market in Madagascar, one of the places where shark fins are produced, the fresh shark fins sold by the indigenous people cost only a few dollars per kilogram.Many people would say bitterly: "That kind of thing looks like vermicelli." Of course, there are also some people who will mutter before ordering: "First, let me rinse my mouth with a bowl of wings." A financial magazine once made According to statistics, the increase and decrease of Hong Kong's shark fin imports in the past ten years is roughly consistent with the fluctuation of the Hang Seng Index curve. In the Hong Kong-produced film "The Full Feast", a food reviewer said: "The shark's fin is fishy, ​​and it tastes like a primitive and bloody taste." Half of this "bloody" taste is related to the price.A few years ago, a shark-biting tragedy occurred on the surface of a public beach in Hong Kong. A swimmer was asked by a TV reporter at the scene: "Are you afraid of sharks?" Afraid. In the sea, I am afraid of being eaten by it; in a restaurant, I am afraid that it will not be able to afford it!" Chinese people have the Year of the Rabbit, but foreigners do not, but both Chinese and foreigners know how to eat rabbits. We are the founders of eating rabbits, and there are fossils of rabbits in some Stone Age cultural sites.As early as the pre-Qin period, rabbit meat entered the system's menu. In the Zhou Tianzi's food list recorded in "Book of Rites Nei Ze", rabbit is listed in the fifth row of "meal" category, and is listed as royal game along with pheasant and quail.In addition, sauces made from rabbits were popular at that time.Bamboo slips from the Mawangdui Han Tomb that recorded the list of burial objects for the female tomb owner also contained bacon made from eleven types of game, including rabbits.Other preparation methods include Latu, one of the "five-flavored curds" in "Qi Min Yao Shu", "rabbit head soup" in "Zian Yi Ji", and so on.Mr. He Guodao (Du Du), a food writer in Hong Kong, believed in the article "Comparison of Chinese and Foreign Rabbit Meat Recipes" that "Chinese people seem to have no tradition of eating rabbits", probably mistaken. The rabbit cooking skills of foreigners are not bad, and France is the best among them. Peter Mayer, author of "Hill Days" and "Mountain City," salivates over rabbit pie, hare roasted in red wine and onions, and roasted hare with spiced mustard "in a rich gravy laced with rabbit blood."Proust even copied a recipe for braised hare meat in his great work.In addition, the famous Corsican dish "Fresh Thick Tomato and Onion Stew" (Stufatu) is mainly made of rabbit, quail, and partridge, served with tomatoes, onions, feta cheese, and white wine. In the clay pot, first spread a layer of meat, and then pile up a layer of fettuccine, so that one layer of meat is layered, and four layers are filled before serving. The tradition of eating rabbits has never been interrupted in Guangzhou.In the past, in Conghua, Zengcheng and Luming restaurants, rabbits have always had a place on the autumn and winter game menus.The traditional method is nothing more than braised in brown sauce or stewed with medicinal materials.Under the current trend of "leaving everything to the hot pot", the rabbit meat "side stove" has become popular.I have made a few hare side stoves in a small shop in Xiguan. Compared with the richness of Provence, it is slightly sweeter.It’s just a pot of rabbit meat, and I insisted on getting a few carrots to make a table of hypocrites dumbfounded: When I got off the car, I saw a white rabbit in an iron cage outside the store door, just "whistle" (Cantonese, referring to front teeth protruding) holding front teeth, holding half of a carrot and nibbling.This boring store insists on creating "typical animals in a typical environment", which is really bullying rabbits too much. "In order to meet the gourmet needs of the people of Yangcheng" - this is a typical state-owned enterprise language.However, if you are scared by the "heat" of mutton, you can only indulge in pitiful enjoyments such as lamb brisket on cold nights when the temperature is low enough, turning the legitimate "need" for mutton into an occasional steal Huan, it really earned the title of "Yangcheng native". The above-mentioned "state-owned enterprise language" is taken from the promotional leaflet of the Guangzhou branch of Beijing "Donglaishun".Of course, terminology is not a problem, the key lies in the materials used.An honest state-owned enterprise like "Donglaishun" always uses materials much better than words.Instant-boiled mutton is actually very simple, nothing more than carefully selected ingredients and thin slices. The meat of "Donglaishun" comes from 14-month-old small-tailed black-headed sheep in Ximeng, Inner Mongolia, which is most suitable for "rinsing".In the past, the meat was cut by hand, and some masters were a little particular about the knife skills. Now they are all replaced by machines. Every 500 grams can cut out 100 pieces, which is thinner than manual cutting.Therefore, the delicious mutton in Beijing is not only from the "Dong" family. It's just that there are huge crowds of people living in this "house" and that "house". "Beyond its head office in Beijing. The task of "Donglaishun" in Guangzhou is quite arduous. Before satisfying the "people's demand for food in Yangcheng", we must first convince the people of Yangcheng on these two issues: 1. The mutton has been stewed for a long time, and the umami taste is exhausted, so it is "shabu-shabu". Food comes first.Qu Dajun, a native of the Qing Dynasty, also said in "Guangdong Xinyu": "There are few sheep in the southeast but many fish, and some people in the seaside do not know the smell of sheep. It is delicious when eaten fresh, so fish and sheep are the freshest in the word." Therefore, "washing" is nothing more than choosing the freshness. Second, in the words of the Guangzhou branch of "Donglaishun": "Some people in the south even have the wrong understanding of eating mutton to 'get angry'. The Pearl River area is hot and humid in summer, cold in winter, and rheumatism and spondylosis are prone to occur, so Regardless of winter or summer in the south, eating more mutton at the right time can dispel the heat and avoid the cold...enhance the ability to resist diseases, which is beneficial and harmless.” It is not difficult to understand that "fish and sheep are fresh". As for the "correct concept" that "eating mutton in summer can dispel the heat", the Cantonese would not accept it to death.In addition, since reservations by phone are not accepted (except for VIP rooms), those who arrive late have to wait in the narrow elevator entrance like a flock of sheep. No matter if they are southerners or northerners, there is no way not to "get angry". In Beijing's antique circle, Lao Ai is known for his "Ge" skills.To apply the jargon of antiques, it is called "miscellaneous" or "alternative". For example, when other people play tripods, Lao Ai also plays tripods. However, Lao Ai casually pulls out a four-legged bronze square tripod from under the bed, and there is such a pile of hard and thin small bones protruding inside. Chickens are not like chickens. , a duck is not like a duck.Lao Ai said that most likely it was a quail. Lao Ai didn't just talk casually.According to the textual research of Professor Wang Renxiang, quail has been eaten since ancient times, and later became one of the "Eight Treasures of Poultry" on the banquet of Manchu and Han Dynasties. For the recipe of Emperor Yang of Sui Dynasty recorded in Xie Xie's "Qing Yi Lu", see "Xiang Cui Quail Soup" Together, it also mentioned "bad quail".Chinese medicine believes that quail meat is flat and sweet, and folks call quail "animal ginseng" to treat children with malnutrition and sore waist and knees. Quail eggs are also regarded as tonics after illness and postpartum. As for the tripod, it is an early pot. In the southern Fujian dialect, the pot is called a tripod.Of course, at that time, those who could use the national classic utensil of copper tripod to cook were basically either rich or expensive. Lao Ai caressed the pile of bones: "At that time, there was probably a pot of delicious quail soup boiled here. The problem is, someone finished the soup, and before they had time to dispose of the remaining bones, a monster appeared. Earth-shattering emergencies... Lao Ai stood up and pointed to his treasures in the room: "Just find a good day, add two large bowls of water to the tripod, and make a pot of quail soup again. Then, put that Ming Dynasty square table in the yard for a while. Put a stool on it, put the tripod in the middle of the table, this early Yangshao red-ground black painted pottery bowl, put some onion, ginger and garlic; drink, use the black glazed Dahai bowl of Ding Kiln in the Northern Song Dynasty, this bowl, Wu Song drinks After the wine is wiped off the mouth, I drop it, drink a bowl and drop one, without blinking. The pair of Jun kiln pots, the moon is white and the wind is clear, are the most suitable for soup, one for each of you and me; If it's tacky, just add some soy sauce and seasoning. After drinking soup and wine, let's drink tea, rinse our mouths, and use Chenghua New Year's white porcelain to cover the bowl, that's all." I patted Lao Ai on the stomach: "Do you still remember which dynasty you are from?" "The primary stage of socialism." Lao Ai said with a smile.