Chapter 5 Writing Foodism-3

"Computer ordering" is a new gadget launched by a Chinese restaurant in Taipei.This game works like this: the customer orders according to the recipe, the waiter enters the coded instruction into a PDA in his hand, exchanges it with the PC on the counter, and then the PC transmits the relevant data to the printer in the kitchen for printing. out.It is said that this move not only speeds up the ordering speed, but is also well received by customers. Advocates of digital survival have received another great piece of evidence.However, in my opinion, this is nothing more than an attempt by the catering industry to use computerized packaging to kill a bloody road under the increasingly fierce competition.Rather than saying this is digital survival, it might as well be read as "digital for survival".Just as flying has alienated "travel" into "transportation", the price for the pursuit of speed may be the deprivation of a subtle pleasure exclusive to diners.That joy is waiting, and it's not only the key reason why restaurants (with the exception of McDonald's and those with similar speeds) exist, but it's also one of the big differences between eating at home and eating out.

I divide the wait in a restaurant into the following different stages: first, you are shown to a table and sit down and wait for tea and the menu; second, you order and wait for the dishes to arrive; Third, the wait between dishes; fourth, the wait for coffee or tea; fifth, the wait for the bill.It can be found that the sensory and psychological feelings draw a beautiful curve that is gradual and ups and downs.The first stage began to brew, the second stage continued to heat up, the third stage climax emerged, and then slowly declined to the late stage of the fourth stage, and finally fell to the bottom in the fifth stage.Among them, the third stage is the most beautiful, and its beauty is that while eating and waiting, your heart is singing: "Eat and wait, let me eat and wait."

Waiting for food is like waiting for a lover who comes to an appointment, and a clever waiter or chef will always make a discerning guest wait appropriately.As far as playing hard to get is concerned, there is a high degree of consensus between them and our lover.Of course, the time interval may not be so accurate, the important thing is that the stability of the program is the most important thing.Messing up the time is nothing more than deleting or prolonging some key rests in a piece of music without authorization; making a mess of the program—for example, hot dishes are served before cold dishes, or the bill is handed over just after ordering—— In such a bad situation, I had no choice but to refrain from taking action: Forgive these people, they are used to wiping their butts first and then defecating.

The evil example of computer ordering will not only kill the fun of waiting, but the future catering industry may also enter a comprehensive CYBERization due to the rapid changes in computer technology: restaurants will be moved to the Internet, and menus and prices will be listed in detail. On the website of each restaurant with Com after its name.Choose the dish you want, and send it by email.After two hours, you arrive at this restaurant, and as soon as you get off the bus, you see the boss waiting for you at the door with the soup you ordered.Two years later, the venture capital fund has fully launched the "fragrance chip" invented by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the "artificial tongue chip" developed by the American company Vusion to the market. By then, there will be not only high-resolution photos of dishes on the Internet , you can smell its fragrance in advance, taste its taste first, and allow customers to adjust each dish in advance, such as a braised pork, according to their own tastes.If you have been unsatisfactory, the restaurant may enthusiastically suggest that you use Netscape8. X or above for the best viewing effect.If you think the photo of the sample of tofu fish head soup looks a bit dry, you are welcome to click the left button to "fill" the photo at will.

As soon as the order email was sent, the confirmation reply arrived immediately: "I look forward to seeing you and your whole family visit the restaurant at the appointed time, and happily download the dishes you ordered into your stomachs." The life of a gourmet In the first two decades of reform and opening up, Guangzhou people were astounded by other provinces with "innovation"; now, people in Guangzhou are not inferior to Guangzhou in modernization, and Beijingers and Shanghainese play nostalgia, which makes old Guangzhou feel ashamed.Because all the old things in Guangzhou are like rosewood in the antique shop, which belongs to the last stream of hardwood furniture.What can barely be sold is still the old profession-eating.It's a bit "sorry"."Old Stories of Lanzhai" written by Ms. Jiang Xianzhu who teaches cooking in the United States, based on the life of her grandfather Mr. Jiang Kongyin as a gourmet, may provide some Proustian-style nostalgic material.Mr. Jiang Kongyin, nicknamed Shaoquan, nicknamed Xiagong, was born in the fourth year of Tongzhi (1865) in Nanhai County, Guangdong.The ancestor of the Jiang family was a wealthy tea merchant known as "Jiang Million".In the last imperial examination before the establishment of the school by the Qing government in the 29th year of Guangxu, Jiang Kong Yinzhong was a Jinshi, with the official title of Taishi.During the period of Dianhan Houpai, Jiang Taishi began to concoct "snake feast" at home.Zhang Mingqi, the last governor of Guangdong and Guangxi in the Qing Dynasty, was the first guest of honor at the "Snake Banquet" in Taishi.When Zhang Mingqi arrived in Sui, he was favored by Jiang Taishi's snake drink. In addition, Xiagong was generous, and often gave them expensive gifts such as calligraphy, paintings, stamps, and porcelain. "A talent second to none", he was not only entrusted with the Guangzhou Qingxiang General Office, but also recommended as the admiral-designate of the Guangdong Navy.After the Revolution of 1911, Jiang Kongyin held the purpose of "not to be involved in two dynasties", lived in seclusion in Guangzhou's ancestral residence "Taishidi", and entertained himself with poetry, books and food.At the beginning of the Republic of China, he served as the general agent of British American Tobacco Company in South China. He earned a lot of money. The Taishi House, No. 10, Tongdeli, Henan, Guangzhou, occupied four streets. The economy was prosperous, and the food style was at its peak. Wei is the chief gourmet in Yangcheng.Every time a new dish is launched in Fantaishidi, the major restaurants in Guangzhou immediately pirate it, dubbing it "Taishi" one after another.The classic Cantonese cuisine "Taishi Five Snake Soup" (it is still popular in Hong Kong and Macao, but it has declined in the birthplace of Guangzhou in the early 1990s), was born in Jiangjia Private Kitchen under the personal guidance of Jiang Taishi.Jiang Taishi "doesn't know how to cook at all" (and all his teeth are fake), but he just studied diet carefully, to the point of being meticulous and striving for perfection.But this is not enough. To become a gourmet of Chinese cuisine, you cannot eat alone, you must entertain guests from time to time.Taishi has a wide range of friends, "invite no one", how many military and political dignitaries, Chinese and foreign envoys, merchants from all over the world, poets and scholars ", three mountains and five mountains, underworld and white ways, if they are destined, they can all be invited to be the guests of Taishidi. Therefore, Taishidi has a perennial There were lots of guests and dinners. Jiang Xianzhu still remembers that when Chen Cheng came to the Taishidi Snake Banquet, traffic control was imposed on the area from Nanhua West Road to Tongdeli, and all of them were under martial law. The wide range of friendships also expanded the supplementary channels for getting delicious food from all over the world. In seasons, Jiang Taishi’s friends in various places gave gifts in many ways, and famous products from all over the place came in a steady stream. In addition, "Jiang Lanqi Farm" has production all year round, not only the delicacies in Taishi Building are endless, but the taste of Jiang Xianzhu when he was a child is also "increasingly complicated". "Jianglanqi Farm" is a fruit planting base founded by Jiang Taishi back then. Nowadays, people often make fun of people saying that "you don't have to raise cows to drink milk", but that's what Jiang Taishi's family did back then. Litchi was not suitable for taste, so Jiang Taishi set up a farm in Luogangdong, Panyu, and introduced fine varieties from all over the country, such as glutinous rice cakes, cinnamon, hanging green, Yaniang shoes, etc., and spared no expense in cultivating them. It was even more frightening. According to Jiang Xianzhu’s recollection, during the lychee season, his family would have to enjoy the “dewy lychee” in the dark under the lychee tree before dawn. Because Jiang Taishi firmly believed that “the meat of glutinous rice cakes is loose, and once exposed to sunlight, the meat quality will be a little softer.” If it turns sour, the enjoyment of the taste will be greatly reduced. Only after the night is warm and cool can the glutinous rice cakes show their best state of fragrance, sweetness, freshness and crispness.And the glutinous rice cakes covered with dew in the morning light are really unique. "As for the precious lychee hanging green, "it is broken and connected from the old hanging green tree in Zengcheng. The output is not much. After careful selection, it is divided into four and eight pieces in glass brocade boxes and entrusted to Daxin Company For sale". In recent years, Guangzhou has also seen hanging green like this, but the "glass brocade box" has become a plastic box. Therefore, Jiang's not only produces and sells fruits in all seasons, but also produces and sells itself, not only the tea, fruits and snacks are all made by themselves , even the chrysanthemum, the key condiment of "Taishi Five Snake Soup", was carefully cultivated by four professional flower kings hired. When it comes to "Taishi Five Snake Soup", this is Jiang Kongyin's original handed down work. Li Liuru's " "Sixty Years of Change", once mentioned the restaurant-made version of "Taishi Five Snake Soup": remove the heads and skins of corona snakes, cobras, and golden kraits, steam or soak the snake bodies, tear them into shredded meat, add Shredded chicken, shredded civet meat, shredded abalone, shredded fish maw, mushrooms, fungus, and then add cornstarch and chrysanthemum to make a snake soup, which is served. Mixed with the configuration, it is the "Five Snake Soup". By the end of the 1990s, the "Taishi Five Snake Soup" basically only had written records, and it was further simplified as: climbing on the ground, flying in the sky (?), climbing tall trees Waiting for five kinds of snakes, peel off the snake's scalp, cut into shreds, stew with a chicken for five hours, then dry half abalone, two mushrooms, and thin sugarcane 60 cm long (use this to remove the snake) Fishy smell makes sweet) etc., cut into thin shreds, and cook with chicken and snake meat. Then take out the sugar cane, remove the oil on the surface, and make broth. Add fungus and new shredded chicken (a chicken) into the broth , boil for three minutes and take it out, and the "Five Snake Soup" is made. Let's take a look at the processing process of the original "Taishi Five Snake Soup": "Every year, the snake season is very lively and busy at home.Grandpa had a big banquet with guests, and the autumn wind picked up and disturbed until the end of the lunar calendar. 'Dragon Tiger Phoenix' seems to be a trilogy of snake feasts.The dragon is a snake, the tiger is a raccoon, and the phoenix is ​​a chicken.In addition to killing chickens is commonplace, killing snakes is the most unsightly.The "Snake King" of the "Lianchuntang" on Paddle Lane Road came to the house early in the afternoon and showed his skills on the Tianjie outside the kitchen... After the snake was slaughtered and cooked, the female workers of the "Lianchuntang" Set up a temporary work table, and quickly get the snake out of the bone...A fruit raccoon is like a cat. The seven-section raccoon is commonly used at home. The body of the raccoon has white stripes, and the tail is black and yellow. ...At this time, the soup is enough for the fire.The cook filtered the soup and poured all the soup dregs into the bamboo basket, which contained old chicken, lean meat and ham.The soup dregs are handed over to a family-owned snack factory in the adjacent street, where they are turned into meat floss and sold to elementary school students as snacks.The soup of Taishi Snake Soup is of course important, but the cut is even more extraordinary. Snake is the main ingredient, and side ingredients such as chicken, dried abalone, cantonese tripe, black fungus, mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots, ginger and tangerine peel must be chopped finely and evenly. Chef Li Cai single-handedly arranged several kinds of condiments are also very elegant.Lemon leaves are the most sharp knife, and should be cut into thin (note: thin) green silk.I have several lemon trees in my garden.The young leaves are not tasty enough, and the old leaves are too hard. Only those that are neither old nor tender are qualified.To cut lemon leaves, the veins must be torn off first, then the leaves will be separated into two halves, and the two halves will be stacked together and rolled into a small sturdy tube, which is easy to cut.And it is cut and used immediately, and the fragrance is fresher. ""Fried crispy (note: crispy fried noodles with soup) is sometimes done by Li Ming, the younger brother of the chef. I saw him cut the dough, sprinkle it with flour, roll it up with a stick, and then pull the stick out to make thin noodles. .Afterwards, spread out the noodle rolls, roll them out thinly, then sprinkle them with flour, roll them up, press them thinly, and roll them out until the dough is thin enough, then cut into small marquise-shaped pieces, and fry them in a frying pan. It is very delicious.Chrysanthemum is the protagonist in the condiment. My family employs four Kao (note: gardeners) all year round, two chrysanthemum growers and four-season potted plants.Most of the snake soup is self-planted white chrysanthemum.There is another kind of strange chrysanthemum called "crane dancing in the sky", which looks like a big white chrysanthemum and is slightly lavender in the white. It is a rare fine product among edible chrysanthemums.Cleaning chrysanthemums is the job of a maid.Put the whole branch of chrysanthemum upside down in a large basin of clear water, then stick to the flower stalk, and shake it gently in the water to remove dirt.Chrysanthemum petals sometimes have tiny aphids attached to them. After washing, they should be soaked in light salt water, and the aphids will fall off, and they can be picked out petal by petal before serving. "" Taishi's snake feast is very simple, mainly snake soup.First of all, the four hot meats are served, all of which are very exquisite dishes, among which there must be "chicken fried in a pot", which is a famous dish of the Taishi Banquet, which is indispensable.Except for snake soup and snake gall wine, there are no other snake-based dishes.Fruit raccoon is a big dish at the dinner table. After the snake soup, it is usually cut into pieces and stewed with double winter pork belly, but it must be added with tangerine peel and fried garlic to avoid the fishy smell.Grandfather...sometimes the cook would stew it with wide belly pieces, minus the winter bamboo shoots and pork belly.The wide belly is covered with the juice of the civet, which has a very strong taste.The civets served the food, including Daliang Jilong salted eggs, fried rapeseed, steamed fresh duck liver soup, and deliciously fried trough white salted fish, topped with Zhejiang vinegar and sugar.Also, the Thai black-shell fragrant rice that is a specialty of Jianglanzhai Farm..." "Taishi snake soup is very simple" - how easy it is to say! In fact, what is really simple is Jiang Xianzhu's appreciation of "Taishi five "Snake Soup" never forgets and respects the truth. She wrote emotionally: "We are still proud of having such a unique grandfather.Once the snake season comes, we can tell the next generation that the Taishi of Taishi Snake Soup is your ancestor.And if Cantonese still eat snakes one day, Taishi Snake Soup will always leave a beautiful page on the food altar. "The indisputable fact is that the "Taishi Five Snake Soup" not only became less delicious in the future, but also gradually faded from the menu. The withering of the snake soup was on the one hand impacted by the new style of snake food, and it also marked the end of the complex diet. Tradition tends to decline, this is a later story (see "The Snake Eater Says"). As the head of the family of Zhongming Dingshi, Jiang Taishi "gets up at 3:00 p.m. and eats at 8:00 p.m., and dinner is like midnight snack , after midnight. In addition to the chef, "Jiang's family" also has western cooks and dim sum cooks. Several vegetarian grandmothers also have a dedicated vegetarian cook. There are so many delicious things." Western cooks can cook in a authentic Cantonese Occupying a place in the family is because Jiang Kongyin "is an agent of British American Tobacco and has been in contact with foreigners", so he "has a certain liking for Western food". In addition, Jiang Kongyin, who has "very good taste", often goes to Sichuan cuisine restaurants that were "unpopular" at that time were "tasteful". Today's Cantonese, who consider themselves gourmets, may envy Jiang Taishi's leisure and the material wealth that supports such a leisurely life, but they may not be able to understand the narrowness of their own tastes. I felt ashamed. The decline of food in Taishidi was caused by the current situation, population and financial problems. It goes without saying that Jiang Taishi was "flirty" and had a total of twelve wives (some of them were not counted). ", so that "Tai Shidi closed the door, and there were at least fifty or sixty people eating for each meal". The poor management of his descendants not only lost the agency right of British American Tobacco, but also further brought down the family fortune. At one time, only British American Tobacco The mediocre car and horse expenses and the meager income of the farm barely support it. However, Taishi still eats fine food and is hospitable and relaxed. The banquet guests do not have enough cash, so each house "contributes" jewelry and antiques, and calls jade merchants to collect them at home. However, He "doesn't like a big banquet for relatives and friends, and a hundred banquets.There is only one table in his dining room.Hospitality dishes must be refined.His heart is always so kind.Regardless of his creditors coming tomorrow, grandfather and his friends, (smoke) lights red (snakes) wine green, happy and happy.” The remains of the revolutionary party left behind after the Guangzhou uprising were made by Jiang Kongyin and his friends It was Jiang Taishi's chivalry to bury him in Huanghuagang. However, during the fall of Hong Kong, he accepted two bags of white rice from the Japanese Governor Rensuke Isoya who had a relationship with food, but he was criticized by others. In any case, Jiang Taishi Kong Yin later gave up opium during the New Life Movement, converted to Tantric Buddhism, and abstained from killing. The first thing in Taishi’s history was that the floating wealth was exhausted, and decades of prosperous food came to an end. Even in 1950, the ninety-year-old Jiang Taishi It was already a dying year, on the eighth day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar, the Buddha's birthday, after he fell and broke his leg at the gate of Liurong Temple in Guangzhou, he was forcibly "pretended" in a bamboo basket and carried to the The Foshan Township Government said, "Knowing that it was unavoidable, Mr. Xia closed his eyes and did not answer, or answered irrelevant questions, pretended to be in a nervous state, refused to eat and drink, and died of a hunger strike.At this time, there was no food in his house, and only four leaky boards were used to bury his body hastily in the countryside." A generation of gourmets ended up on a hunger strike. Jiang Xianzhu wrote: "My grandfather was famous for refined food, and he used two packs The rice mourning festival ended with a hunger strike.The scallion dew in life ends here! "

In the late 1970s, when Jiang Xianzhu returned to Guangzhou to give lectures, he was first shocked by the ruins of the old site of Taishidi, and then held a banquet at the famous Cantonese restaurant Beiyuan on the same day. The ornaments, and even the partitions between the doors and windows of the living room were all removed and transplanted by Taishidi, and I couldn't help crying.At that time, Guangzhou calligrapher Mr. Mai Huasan (deceased, Jiang Xianzhu's Chinese and calligraphy teacher) explained: "What is there to cry about? If it weren't for Beiyuan, how could Jiang's relics have been preserved to this day?" Hong Kong people For this matter, Han Zhongxuan once wrote the title "Tiaoji Huanxisha": "Flowers have stopped being heard for 30 years, and the dream of the old family courtyard is haunted by the soul."Where is the feast of drunken songs in the spring breeze?Taishi Lao's body is gone, and his teacher's kind words are passed on from his heart.Is there no reason to cry and laugh in life? (Note: Beiyuan Restaurant, located at the foot of Yuexiu Mountain in Guangzhou, was founded in the early 1930s. It may have had a history of "becoming the leader of Taishidi" back then. Regarding the environment mentioned by Jiang Xianzhu, Beiyuan Restaurant recently advertised Describe it like this: "Beiyuan Restaurant was rebuilt in 1957 into the first garden restaurant in Guangzhou with the characteristics of a Chinese courtyard. In the garden, there are dense trees and flowers, shaded by green bamboos, pavilions, terraces, waterside pavilions and fish ponds to separate the space. The bridge connects the two corridors, the pavilions are carved with flower lintels and flower windows, and the gardens are beautifully carved and colorful. It operates a new style of seafood and shark’s fin, and changed its name to “Beiyuan Seafood Restaurant”. Guangzhou people who have drank tea in Beiyuan for half their life will not cry when they see this “restaurant divided into two halves.”) Avoid personal sadness The ingredients, the thin "Old Stories of Lanzhai", are actually a textbook on the cultivation of gourmets.Jiang Xianzhu wrote: "In cooking, the taste comes first, and the texture comes second. No matter how finely the person who encourages people separates the taste and texture, in the end the ultimate goal is to seek harmony." In addition, in expensive restaurants and restaurants, As long as you spend money, you can have a taste, but there are not too many opportunities to get a glimpse of the private kitchen in the deep house.Jiang Xianzhu told us based on childhood memories: "I only know that the cooks in the past served the family; the cooks now serve commercial catering - I think there is a difference between not making profits and making profits. If you are used to private cooks, you can travel freely and don't have to. Bear the pressure, don't need to calculate the cost, as long as the employer is satisfied, you can definitely ignore the public opinion. If the employer is only rich but not famous, or if the employer has wealth and reputation but is not hospitable, even if the cook has great skills, he is just a helper. It is difficult to break through the barriers of a certain family, break through the siege, and become famous. At that time, the media was underdeveloped, and public appliances were rarely used for private publicity. If private chefs want to be widely known, they must rely on word of mouth and cannot advertise themselves.” Obviously, only private kitchens Those who can nurture real gourmets, who go in and out of restaurants and restaurants all day long, can only be regarded as "regular diners" at best.In addition, the development of a gourmet must "start from a baby".Those who become monks halfway cannot enter the stream. "As for the feeling of taste, everyone is born roughly the same. It is not like mediocrity or intelligence. It is determined by genetic inheritance. There are about 9,000 taste buds in the human body. In addition to the tongue, the lips, the bottom of the tongue, the upper osprey and the cheeks The inside of the oral cavity has taste buds, and fetuses and young children have more taste buds than adults. The taste buds at the back of the mouth, the bottom of the tongue, and the cheeks are particularly developed in early life, but it will change with age. People reach forty-five After the age, the metabolism of the taste buds slowed down. I was still young when he (Jiang Kongyin) had the most brilliant food, and there was no communication between the grandparents and grandchildren. Where did (food) come from? Created a gourmet environment for us, allowing us to have a wider range of dietary contact than ordinary children, so we can know the taste very early, and we can distinguish the taste when we grow up." Knowing the taste." "Knowing the taste" depends on the acquired environment. Although the so-called "three generations of wealth can only know the food" is a bit exaggerated, at least two generations are needed, at least one and a half generations.In fact, the so-called "wealth" does not need to be very rich. A well-off level of food and clothing is enough. In addition, of course, one must love to eat, eat well, and not be afraid of entertaining guests. More importantly, one must be born and live in a place with abundant products for a long time. (It is best to add inconvenient transportation, such as Chengdu), cities with folk customs and food, such as Guangzhou.

"Sanlian Life Weekly" · "Ideological Work" Private equipment is shared except for some professionals through individual professional equipment, and the coronavirus is really rare.However, SARS still left two obvious and totemic marks on us: masks and serving chopsticks.Masks and serving chopsticks, which belong to the two periods before and after SARS, both represent a kind of taboo, and are related to oral and body fluids.In addition, there is a very important commonality between the two, that is, these two out-and-out "private weapons" are requisitioned by "public" purposes at the same time in the context of SARS—" The ideological confusion caused by "private utensils for public use" has been fully reflected in wearing or not wearing masks. This experience tells us that if there is no accident, public chopsticks will also induce the same large-scale psychological discomfort.The style of daily life in the post-SARS period - as far as eating out is concerned, it is not static except where there are more people. At present, more than 50 million pairs of serving chopsticks "should" be on the table of more than 3 million catering companies across the country to welcome customers.However, according to relevant news reports and my personal on-site observations, serving chopsticks have not received the expected welcome in all kinds of dinners, whether it is sitting on the table or being called. "Isn't it just an extra pair of chopsticks?" This kind of hypocritical confession is only used to entertain unexpected guests during meal times. As for the serving chopsticks, it seems to be nothing more than "an extra pair of chopsticks", but in fact it is easier said than done , It is even hopeless to evolve into a kind of politeness.Regardless of whether SARS has come or not, the benefits of using serving chopsticks are not limited to preventing the coronavirus. Everyone understands the truth. It is pleasant to eat at the same table with others, and the dinner served by others is delicious, but it is not pleasant or delicious to eat other people's saliva , no matter what condiments are added, it is pure if it is out of sight.Unless you have some kind of ulterior reverie or fantasy about this "other".The biggest obstacle facing serving chopsticks comes from the inherent rhythm and rhythm inherent in eating with chopsticks.If you put down the private utensil in your hand first, change the public utensil to put vegetables on the plate, and then switch to the private utensil to put the food in your mouth, you will still be full after eating, but the Nonstop suddenly changed to a turning point. Unavoidable, serious or may also cause digestive disorders.Dr. Li Zhengdao once said: "Eating with chopsticks is the specific application of the principle of leverage in physics. It is the extension of human fingers." Obviously, fingers can only be "extended" and "extended" naturally, and cannot be artificially handed to others , connected to a prosthetic.The reason why it is difficult to change those things related to the oral cavity is that each has its own rhythm and cannot be disrupted at will.For example, spitting, if you can't spit directly on the ground in one go, and the procedure of inserting a handkerchief tissue horizontally, it is simply lifeless.Of course, the most embarrassing and saddest consequence of losing the sense of rhythm is to unknowingly hand out public chopsticks to your own mouth while pushing cups and laughing, making "private utensils for public use" suddenly degenerate into "public utensils for private use". "use" is not even as good as "private use".Not only is eating like this, even Chinese cooking is very particular about the rhythm of one go.There are all kinds of Chinese cooking utensils for the kitchen, each performing its own duties, but a high-ranking chef can get everything he wants with just a spoon.This horse spoon is usually the master's private tool, but its function is often shared: it is used for cooking, it is used for ladling soup, it is used for taking oil, salt, sauce and vinegar condiments, and it is used for serving dishes at the end.It's really like going out of the hall and into the kitchen, and going up like a mountain of swords and down like a sea of ​​fire.At the same time, the chef will subconsciously continue to tap the edge of the pot with the ladle. Although this action has nothing to do with cooking, it is enough for the chef to maintain a comfortable rhythm during the cooking process.What's more, once I ordered a bowl of noodle soup at a food stall, and while I was waiting, a watery ladle suddenly stuck out from the chef's window. .While eating the noodles, I couldn’t help but think, if the cashier happened to go to the toilet 10 minutes later, and I was in a hurry to check out and leave, maybe the spoon just now would stick out to collect money on my behalf.Although serving chopsticks is recognized as a more realistic and lowest-cost feasible way to implement the meal sharing system, the risks of serving chopsticks cannot be underestimated.For example, unless everyone goes to the bathroom to wash their hands together before meals, and then holds hands together to check and accept, otherwise, if you pinch a pair of serving chopsticks, I will pinch them, and the way to exchange saliva will be blocked, but "disease prevention" is still nonsense .Besides, the pair of "private chopsticks" you use for yourself in the restaurant are actually "public chopsticks" that thousands of people taste and ten thousand take.Husband!How many years have they been in the same pot, but now that the public and private are intertwined, and the body and mind are exhausted, is this meal still for people to eat?Putting aside public and private interests, in order to make "public chopsticks" a truly effective solution to the "hygienic" issue, public chopsticks themselves should first create a technical sense of strangeness to users, that is to say, there should be a This kind of public chopsticks is seriously different from the "female chopsticks" in terms of texture, color, weight, shape and feel, in case the public utensils are used privately.Mr. Wang Li wrote: "It is said that there is a joke. A foreigner asked a Chinese: "I heard that there are twenty-four people in your country sharing a banquet. Is it true?" The Chinese said : "It's true." The foreigner said: "The food is too far away, how can the chopsticks hold it?" The Chinese said: "We have a kind of chopsticks that are three feet long." The foreigner said: "Use those three It is not a problem to hold chopsticks that are as long as a foot. How can they be bent to deliver the food to the mouth?” The Chinese said: “We are helping each other. You pick it for me to eat, and I will pick it for you. Eat!'" If you don't take it as a joke, it seems to be a very recommended solution in the promotion and application of serving chopsticks.wait for me to eat the future

"Don't drag, wait for my family to eat the future" -- this sentence was originally said by Zhu Bajie to the little demon under King Nanshan. The reason why "one family" became "one book" in the title of this article is related to the atmosphere of eating famous books. The so-called "eating classics" means cooking dishes written in classic literary works for you to eat. , ate; , also ate.Ladies and gentlemen, we have finally ushered in the exciting moment of eating.Both sides of the Taiwan Strait have recently launched their own "Golden Plum Banquet". The Taipei version is called "Full set of Jinping Plum Dinner". Jinlian sells noodles, Wu Dalang sells cooking cakes" live show.The Shandong version is prepared by the famous chef Li Zhigang, who makes more than 100 dishes, which are divided into 6 series, including home-cooked snack banquet, four seasons nourishing banquet, and Fansengzhai vegetarian banquet.I originally wanted to name it "Jin Ping Mei Diet Banquet", but it is said that "in consideration of the many prejudices against a book in society", I called it a nondescript "Ming Jin Banquet", that is, Jin Ping Mei Banquet in Ming Dynasty.In fact, as long as we follow the practice of the People's Literature Publishing House in the last publication and declare that this is the "Jieben Jinpingmei Diet Banquet" with 1961 characters deleted, only 10,000 seats will be made, and it will only be eaten and drank by the department and above, the "prejudice" will automatically disappear. .

The way of eating Jin Ping Mei on both sides of the strait has two things in common: first, it is loyal to the original work.Like "Song Huilian's Pig Head", please refer to Chapter 23 "...(Huilian) got up and went to the chef's stove, scooped up a pot of water, shaved the pig's head and hooves, and only used a long piece of firewood. In the stove, use a large bowl of soy sauce, mix with fennel and aniseed ingredients, and fasten the upper and lower tin drums. It takes an hour to burn a pig's head until the skin is peeled off and the flesh is melted. It is fragrant and full of five flavors." It is worth mentioning. Yes, pork head meat is Pan Jinlian's favorite. She often eats "pig's head marinated with garlic" and "pig's head stewed noodles" (see chapter 52) at gambling games with her girlfriends.Pan Jinlian and Li Ping'er were full of praise for Laiwang's daughter-in-law's skill in roasting pig heads. They praised her for "good skills! A piece of firewood can burn a pig's head to pieces."In addition to providing detailed recipes for the cooks of the "Golden Plum Banquet", the above text may not support the topic of "the germination of green ideas of environmentalism in China in the late Ming Dynasty, about saving resources": burn a huge pig's head , Only "one firewood" was used.

Second, use aphrodisiac as a selling point.The Shandong version's main dish "Yilongxi Erzhu Soup" is made of donkey penis and round meat, and "Nourishing Brain Soup" uses sea cucumber, mutton, sheep kidney, angelica, peanut kernels, and yam as raw materials. Tonic Yang.In the "Full Set of Jin Ping Mei Special Meal" launched at the Chinese Food Show in Taipei, a famous Chinese doctor gave live lectures on "Jin Ping Mei and Beauty" and the way of eating and strengthening yang. However, when it comes to aphrodisiac, "Plum Banquet in the Golden Ping" begins to deviate from the original work a little bit, and even surpasses the original work.For example, "Nourishing Brain Soup" originally appeared in Chapter 71. Its full name is "Meatball Wonton Egg Brain Soup", and there are no sea cucumbers, mutton, lamb kidneys, angelica, etc.Ximen Qing in the novel is actually more like a weaponist in terms of sex. In terms of food, apart from being more superstitious about drugs, he doesn't seem to pay much attention to the word "bu". "Chicken kidney", "pigeon stew" and leeks and garlic.Ximen officials are definitely ashamed of today's hard work in this area.

Most of the movies and TV series adapted from famous books are not satisfactory (40 episodes of TV series have been produced recently): forcibly restoring food described in words to real objects is not so much an admiration for famous books, it is better to regard it as an appreciation of literature in the kitchen. Comb up.The wind is so crooked, and the famous books will be eaten one after another. I believe that the reconstruction of the wine pool and meat forest in Lina is not far away. Rice is our staple food.Yet our attitudes toward staple foods, at least in restaurants, are becoming more ambiguous by the day.This is how Guangzhou people do it: order food loudly and pickily, drink the soup, and then ask for rice in a low-key way when the first hot dish is served. This is still the general situation.Banquets are somewhat different. At the end of the pre-ordered banquet menu, there are usually two types of fried rice, dry and wet (the so-called Yangzhou fried rice and Fujian fried rice) written in smaller fonts.And in those occasions that are neither formal banquets nor family gatherings, nor colleagues going to a tea house for lunch, in short, those occasions that can be called "dinner parties", before the rice is served, the following scene often occurs: As the host, I am ashamed to ask the guest if he wants rice, because asking this way will appear petty and insidious, as if he intends to fill the guest's stomach hastily; if this request is made by the guest, it is also impolite, because This may imply "bad food" or "not enough food".In this way, the two sides had their own ulterior motives, and the stalemate continued until someone who didn't know anything (or couldn't help it) shouted "Give me a bowl of white rice" first, and there would be echoes immediately, I want it, I want it Also, in the end, the waiter who was so dazed had no choice but to ask the students to raise their hands like the head teacher, and then left with the sentence "one bowl for each person", so that everyone was happy. Voltaire said: Common sense is a thing "between cleverness and stupidity". "To say 'the man has no common sense' is a terrible insult; to say 'the man has common sense' is also a form of hazing, implying that he is not stupid but lacks natural intellect." At the dinner table, Rice is such an embarrassing common sense. When ordering food, we would say: "Write some dishes for me", and use writing to show our importance; when we want rice, we say: "Order two bowls of rice", or simply make a gesture, just like hailing a taxi on the street. car.The rice is "called" like a chicken or a dog or a servant.However, restaurants in Beijing still have the habit of writing the "staple food" when ordering, and Guangzhou people who like to "call" often cannot understand it. Regarding the requirements for a bowl of rice, the main indicators such as stickiness, softness and hardness are often different from person to person, but there is one indicator similar to skin care products, which is not very controversial, that is, whether it is white enough after steaming.However, since rice is white, it has been given multiple derogatory meanings, such as "widowed", "vegetarian" and "free food" and so on.The most "white" rice I've ever had.那次在哥伦比亚大使馆被留午饭，大使和夫人先是和我们在二楼的正厅里喝了回威士忌，然后，大使轻晃餐桌上那个景泰蓝摇铃，通知厨房上菜。中餐西吃了约四五道菜，最后一道主菜撤下之后，我开始等待甜品，当然没有期望在餐桌上出现里面的那些魔幻食物，例如吃了以后能使人在照相机前保持两分钟绝对不动的骨髓糖浆，或者喝下去就能平地腾空１２厘米的巧克力浓茶————厨师再次出现时，端来的是满满一大盆比他的制服还白的白米饭。一人一勺，不够再添，请请请。 好在我还依稀记得《浓情朱古力》所记载的那几样拉丁美洲米饭：辣椒大豆米饭以及米饭炒大蕉，就着这些最起码有辣椒和大蕉相伴的想象，勉强吃光了盘子里的“白饭”。心有不甘，于是下楼之前假装去向厨师致意。答称：“按照西班牙传统，米饭算一道菜，此处亦一向如此。不习惯空口吃白饭的中国工作人员，在撤走最后一道菜之前，会多要一勺留在盘中以备下饭。你没留意吗？” 当肉类碰上滚烫的金属，刹那间便会发出一种蛋白质与金属的混合音响，诉诸文字，是“嘶嘶”或“吱吱”，广东话比较特别，做“”之声。如果要比附于歌喉，周信芳和ＲｏｄＳｔｅｗａｒｄ是我心目中的最佳人选。 我说的不是酷刑，而是铁板烧。这种铁板烧，也不是日本人的Ｔｅｐａｎｙａｋｉ，而是在许多时髦餐馆里常见的那种中西合璧。人们对于铁板烧的兴趣，虽然在潜意识中不排除施虐的兽性冲动，但是大致还是集中于铁板烧上桌时所营造的庆典和仪式的氛围。不过，我在北京就有过一次另类的铁板烧经历。那是一家不错的饭店，铁板烧端上来时，但见肉汁汨汨，牛肉在热力的作用下颤栗不已，但是声音却没有，犹如一出无声电影中的战争场面。及至烤肉汁和调味当头浇将上去，期待中的“唧唧复唧唧”并未大作，只有一场浇花般的润物细无声，那缭绕在半空中的肉香，便兀自有些空灵起来。 餐桌上的主人老徐投箸叹曰：“国内的烹饪水准，看来还是不济。这块黑乎乎的铁板，想来是没有烧烫，铁不烫，肉不能速熟，谈何鲜嫩？久烧则沦为蛮肉一团。想当年，我在纽约开的中国餐馆，也卖铁板烧，那轰然大作的巨响，每每令人、肉俱欢，这是何等景象？” 肉到口中，老徐的眉头上微微一怔，续嚼之，愠色竟然渐去————牛肉向舌头作证：铁板还是烧得够烫的。再嚼之，终于恍然大悟：不是铁板不够烫，而是餐厅太吵，烧肉的音量完全被人声的澎湃所掩盖。 中餐馆里的吵闹一向与中国美食齐名，西餐馆则通常比较安静，也包括老徐在纽约的那一家。与当地的西餐馆相比，其实也是闹的。这倒不是说西人在个性上天生比国人安静，比如交响乐这种“交关（上海方言，指非常）响的音乐”就比“二泉映月”吵闹，更遑论摇滚。再则，饭前要祷告的西人也比我们要多费一些口舌，额外地制造一些噪音。我们更不妨相信，西餐馆的安静系因西餐的乏味所致，正如在幼年的大卫·科坡菲尔看来，饭前祷告的内容很可能是对菜不好吃的抱怨。这些说法都有道理，不过，如果可以选择的话，吃饭这件事，我还是愿意在一家安静的餐馆里进行，这是对食物和感官的应有的尊重。至于中餐馆里的噪音从何而来，我认为：第一，菜做得太好吃；第二，太难吃；第三，劝菜和布菜；第四，劝酒及猜拳；第五，争先恐后、尔虞我诈的埋单大战。此外，手机普及之后，从１８点至１ ９点，从２０点至２１点，餐厅噪音再添两大高度活跃区间：在第一区间里，声浪来自催促、指引及路面交通状况的真或假的报告；第二个区间，则集中在餐后夜生活去处的讨论和争执。一家中餐馆的屋顶下，有多少根的舌头卷噬着食物，就有同样数量的舌头在喋喋不休地搅动着空气。“人声鼎沸”这个词，本来就是从食肆里借出的。 铁板烧也就算了。抗战期间，后方紧吃，上海锦江饭店曾包装过一道以音效为卖点的名菜：汤烩炸锅巴————艺名是“轰炸东京”，取的是热汤浇灌热锅巴之巧。现在想来，在那种环境中，所谓“轰炸”当是作大，其现场音效，充其量也只是以无声手枪向东京放了一弹。 厨房是一个极其险恶的地方，在险恶的意义上，这个地方所独有的熊熊烈火以及各种锋利的刀具，只是一种再恰当不过的背景和道具。 厨房里的厨师，是权力斗争的主角。一般来说，在一家稍具规模的饭店的同一个厨房，厨师总会分成两个派系以上。厨师的派系，通常以出身划分，例如门派、宗师；如果出身相同，则区别以烹饪学校的年次，如果连年次也相当，则可能会取决于勾芡的不同习惯等等细节。总之，只要有两个大厨，就不怕找不到形成派系的理由。再说得玄一点，如果只剩下一个大厨，他可能也会与自我作不懈之斗争，以今日之我打倒昨日之我————这种精神如果用在厨艺的改进上，当然不失为有益于食客的良性斗争。 厨房里的宗派及其战争，系由多种原因所造成。首先，中餐在制作上的复杂，形成了厨房里分工的细致和严格的等级制度。在这种环境里，厨房中人难免养成结成帮派以求自保的风俗。其次，厨师们习惯性的“跳槽”，一向具有集体性和突然性，形同一场完全没有过渡性看守政府的内阁总辞，因此，有经验的饭店老板对此总是防之甚严，平时就注意在厨师里人为地制造派系，以达到分裂厨师队伍之目的，从而避免集体总辞给饭店在经营上造成措手不及。此外，现在厨房里的原材料，像干鲍、鱼翅、元贝、花胶之类，如果货真价实的话， 随时都可能是饭店老板的全副身家性命。是故，为提防那个别手脚不干净的厨师，前者也时常会在厨房里安插坐探，形成互相监督的机制。 尽管在我们的社会阶梯中，厨师算是高收入的专业人士，而且基本上只有“跳槽”而不存在“下岗”，但是其社会地位却未能取得相应的高度，与此同时，这一行业似乎又游离于社会之外，沾染着浓重的江湖气。厨房里的战争和厨师们的“好戏”，其实也不是从天上掉下来的，要讲责任的话，这里面有一半是“社会的错”。在“君子远庖厨”的古训之下，今天不论是君子还是小人，非但都没有因吃得满意而亲自向厨师致敬的习惯，在饭店里反而要坐得离厨房越远越好。考究一点的酒楼，上菜时会在菜碟的边沿贴上一张油渍斑斑的字条， 记录着厨师的工号。然而，只有厨师心里明白，这些阿拉伯数字只供投诉而不适用于致敬。至于那开饭店的老板，一门心思只扑在店面的装潢以及咨客小姐旗袍的开衩高度上，反将厨师视为一群不登大雅之堂的幕后工作者。 中餐的出品，本身就有不稳定的特点，除了厨师的技艺，更关乎其心情的好坏。一个厨房里如果尽是满嘴脏话、互穿小鞋、尔虞我诈以及忙于秘密交换“跳槽”消息的厨师，吃到我们嘴里的滋味，也就可想而知。在古代，治庖和治国之道是相提并论的，“调和鼎鼐”曾是主持国政的代称，“济五味，和五声”则用来比喻处理社会和人事矛盾的原则。今天，谁要是对厨师提出这样的要求，无疑会被人毫不犹豫地从饭店里扔到街上。作为食客，我惟有衷心地期望，那个正在为我炒菜的厨师，半小时之前刚刚完成了一场成功的权力斗争。 粤菜高烧既退，现在，闪着油亮登场的，轮也轮到了上海菜。 粤菜的走红，在于其独特；上海菜能在京、穗这些美食荟萃的都会里领导潮流，世风所向之外，却得之于性情上的随和。随和这个词，可以理解为“平易近人”或“调和”，也不妨套用沪上流行语————“捣浆糊”。今天端到你面前的上海菜，正是在一部“激荡的百年史”里面被不紧不慢地“捣”出来的。 上海开埠之前，沾染着淮扬风情的徽菜就已随徽商自扬州抢滩，并且大行其道。据逯耀东教授考证，抗战前，徽菜在上海已“通衢皆是”，竟有５００多家。今天上海馆子里所见的招牌菜，如炒鳝背、炒划水等等，皆为徽菜遗韵。而在光绪初年入沪的淮扬佳肴，也为上海菜谱供献了醋溜鲫鱼、红烧狮子头、煮面筋、镇江肴肉、松仁鱼米等看家菜。北伐时期，川味随着国民革命军中大量的川人攻陷上海，及至抗战胜利，川菜也在沪上改头换面，依附于淮扬而盛行。如今的沪菜名店“绿杨春”和“梅龙镇”，当年均因沾上辣味而红极一时。 至于在当代沪菜烹饪上被奉入庙堂的锦江饭店，也始终未脱其“川扬合流”的本色。 性格上的随和，泰半与成不了系统有关。然而今天市面上的上海馆子，却时兴以“本帮菜”自称。字面上，又“本”又“帮”的，似乎在强调着派系和地方色彩。其实，最初这只是上海土著居民面对外来菜系、如苏帮、徽帮而相对于本地风味的一种说法而已。在漫长的融汇过程中，“本帮菜”早已是面目全非，只留下一个不屈不挠的遗传基因————浓油赤酱。所谓浓油赤酱，乃指上海菜油重味浓的特征。在乡泊鳝糊、油爆河虾、油酱毛蟹、锅烧河鳗、红烧圈子、九转肥肠等这些上海菜馆的必备菜肴上，浓油赤酱都有淋漓尽致的表现。 我家的旧邻居，是来自青浦县的正宗上海人。他家婆婆烧菜，有一个规定动作：一手执糖罐，一手执酱油瓶，双管齐下，咸甜并重，不亦乐乎。当酱油遇上白糖————张爱玲就是在浓油赤酱的滋养中煨熟了上海。张爱玲自认“我和老年人一样的爱吃甜的和烂的”，胡兰成在中也说张喜食“油腻熟烂之物”。在一份私人菜谱中，她这样录了一味“红烧划水”：“青鱼尾巴二条，青鱼头一个，菱粉３／４杯，四两，酒二汤匙，酱油半杯，糖二茶匙，盐一茶匙，火腿数片，葱、姜……在热油锅内煎炸一透，捞起。另起油锅，倒入油五六汤匙……” 当今的健康饮食观念，显然已无法接受油、糖的这种大手笔投放，这也正是“新派上海菜”近年来刻意要革除的弊端。时尚的吃客，即使性嗜浓郁，人前却一概以追求清淡自诩。这样下去，上海菜唯一的那点个性，只怕会磨灭殆尽，上海的浓油赤酱，从此将消逝在一场虚构的上海的风花雪月之中。