Chapter 4 Writing Foodism-2

"Eat in Guangzhou" is an old saying. As for those who "live in Hangzhou, die in Liuzhou", it is simply because Hangzhou has a good environment, with mountains and rivers, and there are many boring activities throughout the year, so no matter how you live, you will not be bored; The coffin in Liuzhou is good. After death, the body can be kept fresh for a long time. Today, this pursuit is not only outdated, but also very old-fashioned.It is difficult to reach a consensus on whether Hangzhou is a good place to live. At the same time, when the firepower of crematoriums in various places is roughly the same, no one will go to Liuzhou to die.Only on the issue of food, although Chinese people have different understandings and perceptions of Cantonese cuisine and Guangzhou people's food, the words "eating in Guangzhou" are still convincing, and everyone is too lazy to argue whether there is It is necessary to rewrite, as long as there is food.

In fact, Guangzhou's status as a national gourmet center is being shaken.First of all, the name of Cantonese cuisine has been over-exploited and seriously abused in the past 20 years. As far as Lhasa’s Bajiao Street, there is also a supply of "violent seafood"; The Beijing, Sichuan, and Shanghai cuisines that have settled in Guangzhou have also undergone changes to varying degrees, and the purity of "eating in Guangzhou" has been further diluted.Under such circumstances, if Guangzhou’s eaters still want to find some personality, they can still maintain their leading position in the country by changing the text from “eat in Guangzhou” to “eat in Guangzhou”. "The wind is roaring, the horse is howling", "Guangzhou is eating" is no longer obsessed with the glory of the past, but emphasizes the ongoing and sustainable development of eating, and is endowed with a modern association, such as "Guangzhou Online" the taste of.

"Eating" is dynamic and holographic.There are specialties in the art industry, and there are different food intakes, but in front of 24 hours a day, everyone is equal—except for Guangzhou people.A normal Guangzhou person can calmly put himself in the situation of "eating" or "like eating" within 24 hours.If health and time permit, you can start with morning tea and go directly to lunch, then transfer to afternoon tea without any trace, and then "straight down" to dinner and supper.When I woke up, I found that I was still sitting at the dining table, sipping the pot of chrysanthemum Pu'er yesterday morning.In fact, this kind of "dining table solution" that can eat and do whatever you want has long been a national popular culture, but the profoundness of Guangzhou people lies in that even if they are not doing anything, they can still act as if they are doing something. Hang around the dining table in the same way, day and night.At the same time, there seems to be no delay in the big and small things to be done.

In addition to the unchanging beliefs of Guangzhou people, the increasingly complex format of the catering industry provides an excellent place for "Eating in Guangzhou".Although Cantonese-style food stalls have been pushed to all parts of the country from the noun to the essence, the unique shops in Guangzhou, such as herbal tea shops and sugar shops, have been quietly and diligently connecting and supplementing the main meals. The unbearable gap between.In the 24-hour SevenEleven (7-11 convenience store), the microwave oven jingles 24 hours under the snow-white light. Fish eggs, shrimp dumplings, and barbecued pork buns provide quick heating for those who don’t want to go home. consolation.The convenience of transportation allows people in Guangzhou to count the time and drive to Panyu, Shunde and other places within half an hour to enjoy the fresh pork offal that comes out of the pig belly and slaughterhouse at 12 o'clock in the morning.When there are many people and the mood is good, this midnight viscera feast can be eaten until Dongfang Jibai. At this time, all the people present still look calm, accepting the ceremony, discussing the whereabouts of the next meal.It shows that he loves to eat, is greedy, and is no match for eating.

Another thing that outsiders can't understand is that horses have no night grass and are not fat, so why most Guangzhou people are thin.In fact, the reason is very simple, it is because they are busy eating and tired. Baozi is a food that is not without provocative.If there are people who don't understand the style, they pick out the stuffing from the bun and chew it, it's tantamount to raping that unfortunate bun. The provocativeness of Baozi comes from the temporary ignorance of the known content, the quickness of behavior, and the spontaneous spirit of exploration.Therefore, the process of eating buns is full of entertainment.Many people, especially when they are too hungry, often miss this good game.

The buns sat quietly in the steamer, except for some pleats at the mouth, the appearance was thick and solid, even a bit clumsy.At this time, the naked eye cannot see through the inside of the bun, but imagination and salivation are extremely active.In fact, the inside of the bun is nothing more than stuffing, and the stuffing can be either vegetables or meat or a mixture of vegetables and meat.We have been informed of this beforehand.However, we still can't help but imagine: what surprises "this one" bun will bring to our taste under the action of heat.Just like a craftsman in Jingdezhen, with a raging fire on his face, he imagined and looked forward to a shocking kiln transformation.

The stuffing of buns is actually not complicated.In addition to vegetables and meat, ginger, onion, salt, sesame oil or cooking wine are inseparable.In order to make the stuffing steamed to produce a thick and juicy juice with just the right amount, the key is to mix the stuffing with a proper proportion of meat jelly.The word "connotation" that has been abused at present is the most appropriate to describe the inner relationship between meat jelly and steamed stuffed buns.In addition, I personally don't like any kind of buns with a single filling, buns with all meat or all vegetables. It not only enriches the layers of texture, but also, I firmly believe that only under the interaction of the three basic elements of meat, vegetables and flour, can the steamed steamed stuffed bun resound with a forceful sound of nature.

The steamed stuffed bun is cooked, but only the necessary part has been completed. Eating steamed stuffed bun is a completely interactive process. Next, it depends on us.In my opinion, if you want to eat a steamed stuffed bun happily, you should strictly follow the following action essentials: 1. With the palm facing upwards, hold the index finger, thumb, and middle finger from the bottom of the steamed stuffed bun according to the top, left, and right points respectively, and point to the side of the mouth. , leaving ample area to bite; second, after biting a gap as big as a copper coin (depending on the size of the bun, the ratio of eight to one is better), do not rush to swallow it, but first align the hole in the horizontal direction Zhong Zhizhi made a close observation, then tapped the tip of his tongue to detect the temperature, and then opened his mouth to form an O shape, with his upper and lower lips tightly covering the gap of the bun. At this moment, it is advisable to close his eyes and imagine the docking of the space capsule; third, mobilize the dantian Genuine Qi, inhale the filling juice of the bun into the mouth continuously, let it spread over the tongue, and then moisten the taste buds from the walls of the mouth --- In order to prevent the stuffing ball and filling juice that advance and retreat together from being sucked in at the same time, the upper and lower While shrinking the lips back, push the tip of the tongue forward, which can not only send the stuffing balls that are about to move back to the nest, but also enjoy the taste and texture of the stuffing balls simultaneously when the stuffing juice gurgles into the mouth; Fourth, take advantage of the filling juice If it has not been completely sucked, eat the buns in one bite (up to two to three bites) without hesitation.In the whole set of movements, it is the highest level to look like eating buns normally, but actually sucking the juice closely, and playing "Tai Chi push hands" on the tip of the tongue without others being able to detect it.

Both the skin and the stuffing are prefabricated, only the stuffing is made naturally.However, a good bun cannot have too much juice.Those oily soup dumplings are actually not delicious. It seems that the makers of the soup dumplings can't correctly understand the difference between soup and juice.I once ate a kind of Huaiyang soup dumpling in Nanjing. The skin was thin and the "soup" was big. In addition to the steamed stuffed bun, I was given a straw. When I sipped it hard, the steamed stuffed bun shrank rapidly, which was very cartoonish. According to reports, among the 11 time-honored restaurants under the Guangzhou Food and Beverage Group Company, three suffered serious losses, two had closed down, two had guaranteed capital or made little profit, and the remaining four had relatively good returns, with turnover and profit of nearly It has also declined rapidly in the past three years.

The local authorities attribute the reasons for the downfall of time-honored brands to "the accumulated disadvantages under the long-term planned economic system": first, the lack of autonomy and failure to adjust business strategies in a timely manner according to market changes; second, the lack of vigor and vitality of the enterprise; third, the management The mechanism is not flexible, the sense of competition is not strong, and it cannot keep up with the changes in consumption trends; Fourth, the burden is heavy, the expenditure is large, and the accumulation and development capabilities of enterprises are weak.The way out lies in the innovation of the property rights system. Mergers, alliances, sales, joint ventures, and joint-stock systems can reduce pressure and relieve difficulties for time-honored brands.

There are many successful precedents for using system innovation to help state-owned enterprises turn losses into profits.It's just that this time-honored state-owned enterprise that sells food and drink has its own particularity compared with those that make steel, manufacture tractors, and make pills. The common problems of state-owned enterprises, whether the above-mentioned "common medicine" can be used to treat it, I still have no idea. Some doubts.To say that time-honored brands "have no strong sense of competition and cannot keep up with changes in consumption trends" is actually wronging them.In fact, time-honored brands have also "always been working hard."We have seen that in the past 15 years, the time-honored brands in Guangzhou have been competing with the "new brands" in luxury decoration and in the slit of the cheongsam.The "New School Duck Cuisine" prepared by Beijing's time-honored brand Quanjude even borrowed the Cantonese "Nestle Seafood" recipe, but the scallops and shrimps were replaced with duck meat and duck offal.The family at Hepingmen still runs karaoke in a "trend" way at night, and on the neon signboard, ducks hold microphones and sing loudly. The time-honored brands in Guangzhou cannot be compared with others. Although the roast duck in Beijing has been sold for 36 yuan a piece, which is no more expensive than half a dozen hamburgers, Quanjude is still very popular. When the meal is open, the entrance will be crowded with tourist buses. That kind of car will be cornered.In fact, Quanjude has already been ranked alongside the Great Wall and Jingshan. Even if it does not have Nestlé or Karaoke, I believe it will be the same.Under normal circumstances, it is normal for a time-honored brand that upholds tradition and cherishes its reputation to be dumped.Suppose a 10-year-old Miss Xiguan fell in love with Xue Juexian and "Tao Taoju Last Moon" at the century-old Tao Taoju (Since 1880/on the verge of bankruptcy) in 1939, but now it is a rare year; It was a five-year-old boy who accidentally went south to Guangzhou with his father from a famine area in the north in the summer of 1960, and accidentally tasted half a lard bag in Changdi Dasanyuan (serious loss) less than half a year after resumption of business. We are over half a century old—we often complain that the food we eat now is not as delicious as when we were young. This is actually a deception of memory.Ms. Jiang Xianzhu, a descendant of a generation of Yangcheng food sage Jiang Taishi, who taught cooking in the United States, said: "The human body has about 9,000 taste buds. In addition to the tongue, there are taste buds on the lips, the bottom of the tongue, the palate and the inside of the cheeks. Fetus and young children have more taste buds than adults, and the taste buds at the back of the mouth, the bottom of the tongue and the cheeks are particularly developed in early years, but they will decline with age." In other words, time-honored brands follow the taste buds of a generation of young people. Fame is also destined to fade out with the decay of teeth of this generation.The metabolism of personnel has long determined the survival of time-honored brands in terms of taste. Even if Tao Taoju replaced the gold-lacquered sign with black background written by Kang Youwei with Zhang Huimei's signature, I believe it would be futile.Therefore, rather than saying that time-honored brands are defeated by the market economy, it is better to say that they are mainly defeated by taste buds. Unfortunately, time-honored brands in Guangzhou usually die earlier and worse than those in other provinces, which may be related to the nature of Guangzhou people.According to Huang Aidongxi, who grew up in Xiguan, diagnosed in his new work "Old Guangzhou——The Sound of Clogs and the Shadow of Sails": "When a Guangzhou person wants to drink tea and eat, he usually finds a nearby teahouse or restaurant that he is familiar with and thinks is good. If there is no For special reasons, he seldom makes a special trip there just because it is a time-honored brand. People in Guangzhou seldom put the time-honored brand on the altar, unless the legendary good things there are still particularly good—— ——However, it’s just a few more games.” Steamed buns and steamed buns, one has no fillings and the other has fillings. This is the main difference between steamed buns and steamed buns. Therefore, those who sell steamed buns often boast of "thin skin and big filling". It is based on its "hungry" and "more noodles" to allude to the flashiness of buns. If food and clothing are still a problem, it is easy to understand that steamed buns are regarded as an economical and affordable food, while steamed buns are more luxurious, or a luxury version of steamed buns.And when the problem of food and clothing is solved, food, like people, can easily be overemphasized about "have" and "haven't".In this way, Baozi and Mantou announced that they had entered a state of hostility.How can we bring this pair of babies born from the same root back to the negotiating table? You might as well try the way of the Shanghainese: the old-school Shanghainese call buns "meat buns" or "vegetable buns", just like they call buns "vegetable buns". Tea is called "tea tea" to distinguish it from "tea" without tea leaves - boiled water.This kind of orientation of "steamed buns as the body and meat fillings as the use" can indeed take care of the emotions of both parties to a certain extent, but it does not rule out that the steamed buns will sharply raise the question of "ranking first", and at the same time, the steamed buns may He also questioned: "Although there is meat, it is still steamed buns—we have been betrayed." You can't just argue with the name, you have to start from the reality—that is, from the pure pleasure of eating.For steamed buns and steamed buns, people have different expectations from lips, tongue, teeth and the whole taste system.The joy of eating steamed buns lies in the feeling of fullness and security that fills the mouth with one bite; the joy of steamed buns lies in the pleasure of finding things in the bag when they are broken into the skin. The spirit of exploration.In this sense, all pasta can be divided into two categories: "sense of security" and "adventurous". young general.Although steamed buns and steamed buns bring us happiness in different ways, they have the same goal and lead to the same goal. By contrast, a hamburger or sandwich with its filling sandwiched between two lumps of flour so that the edge of the filling is exposed is like a foot soldier who is not good at ambushes, not only self-defeating, but also very boring to the opponent.As for the pizza, once served, the gate of the city has been opened, and the inside and outside have been peacefully liberated. As I write this, I find that although this matter has been raised to the height of the principle of "speaking dedication", and a "clash of civilizations" has been introduced in an attempt to create an atmosphere of solidarity with the same hatred, the tension between steamed buns and steamed buns is still not there. There is the slightest sign of easing up.It wasn't until I entered a supermarket with anxiety that I suddenly realized: steamed buns in the industrial age, because of their hardness, thick skin and little filling, have already made a thorough and boring end to the grievances and grievances between them and steamed buns.In the Edo period, if two Japanese samurai agreed to a duel, if one of them ran to the door of the opponent's house and hanged himself on the eve of the duel, the one who survived would be recognized as having suffered great humiliation. His honor was ruined, and he was ashamed to see others for the rest of his life.In this way, Baozi finally defeated steamed buns. Mr. Tao Jie, a writer, said that men’s criteria for choosing a mate are nothing more than the two factions of “Mantou” and “Steamed Buns”: “The Mantou faction seeks virtuousness, not talent, just like the simplicity of Mantou, which is already a good choice. The representative is Hu Shi’s wife, Jiang Dongxiu; the “Baozi School” requires a little bit of spiritual communication when marrying a wife. A woman has a little bit of ink, and she is educated, like a bun with stuffing, unique and beautiful. Representative: Qin Guan’s wife, Su Xiaomei. Since people's temperament can be divided into food types, is there a "steamed bun" and "baozi" that have the best of both worlds?Yes, the so-called ultra-thick leather buns, or steamed buns that were accidentally filled with a small amount of filling, lay frozen in a corner of the freezer under the cold light of any supermarket, with a peaceful expression. With the autumn wind, there is a pleasant "rustling" sound in my ears.When you close your eyes, you will see a brilliant golden color—it’s not the fallen leaves in the wind, or the forest is full of dye, but the crabs are crawling, and the memory of the hairy crab’s happiness. Eating hairy crabs is a seasonal treat.Hairy crabs are a member of the Chinese mitten crab family. Among them, the "clear water hairy crabs" produced in Yangcheng Lake, which spans Changshu, Kunshan and Wuxian, are the best.The vast majority of what you see on the market are actually Yangtze River crabs, and hairy crabs have become a general term in business.In addition to the four characteristics of green shell, white belly, yellow hair, and golden claws, the original hairy crabs are also extra-large in size.In addition, due to the hard soil at the bottom of Yangcheng Lake, crabs are used to standing and walking, so their limbs are particularly developed.When I was a child, I saw that this crab could stand up in the enamel washbasin, and when it stood up, it dominated half of the basin.In fact, as long as you remember the line of Chief of Staff Diao in "Shajiabang": "I order you to go to Yangcheng Lake to catch fish and crabs, and buy them at the market price", it is impossible not to know the good name of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs (this line is most likely from written by gourmet Mr. Wang Zengqi). Zhang Daiyun: "Food without salt and vinegar and full of five flavors are cockles and river crabs." He also said: "The river crabs are as fat as the rice grains in October, and the shells are as big as a plate. The middle grave rises, and the purple claws are as big as a fist." , the small feet are fleshy, greasy. When the shell is lifted, the greasy accumulation is like jade fat amber crumbs, united and lingering, although the sweetness is not as good as the eight treasures." In my opinion, apart from deliciousness, the fun of eating crabs lies in The whole set of rituals should not go straight to the theme, but should gradually get better, first eat the crab claws, crab claws and other peripheral parts one by one, and the moment the crab cover is uncovered, it feels like a cave of treasures The door creaked open in front of Alibaba. Being poor and unable to eat hairy crabs made Zhang Dai's memories faintly poignant in the intoxication; today, even if he occasionally encounters decent hairy crabs, he can't help but feel a sense of sadness in his mouth.Wang Wu, a crab expert at Shanghai Fisheries University, pointed out that Yangtze River crab, an excellent crab species, has almost fallen into a doomed situation due to the serious provenance pollution of hybrid crabs in the past ten years. It is almost impossible to restore its germplasm in a short period of time (see details See "Southern Weekend" on August 20, 1999).In fact, the genocide of Yangtze River crabs began as early as the late 1970s.Due to the large-scale construction of water conservancy projects, the way for hairy crabs to spawn in the waters of the Yangtze River estuary was blocked, and the ecological law of their migration was destroyed. Coupled with the abuse of pesticides, the number of wild hairy crabs dropped sharply, and at the same time, their size shrank (under the artificial ecological crisis , there seems to be some strange law in the variation of living things, that is, everything good becomes smaller, and everything bad becomes larger).At the same time, the price of crabs has been soaring all the way, and the asking price at the peak is more than 300 yuan per catty.Fans of crabs were overwhelmed by the ocean, so they developed a "fake crab" to satisfy their cravings.Mr. Lin Kebu, a gourmet in Hangzhou, once recorded and practiced this recipe in this era of "rare encounters" with hairy crabs: 250 grams of potatoes, a small piece of carrot, boiled, peeled, pressed into a puree, mixed with ginger and sugar Stir fry the vinegar with 100 grams of refined oil and serve.Mr. Lin's evaluation is: "It looks exactly like, full of crab flavor, and it only costs one yuan." In the early 1990s, a large number of hybrid crab seedlings were released to Yangcheng Lake in an organized and planned manner, and the output rebounded, and the price stabilized. In traditional hot-selling cities such as Shanghai and Hong Kong, the so-called hairy crabs have now been reduced to appearing in supermarkets. However, the taste is not as good as a crab.Recalling the fall of the "Gang of Four" in the golden autumn of 1976, hairy crabs were loved by the people of the whole country for the first time, because I don't know who invented the "three males and one female" eating method.Today, almost all the losses caused by the "Gang of Four" have been recaptured, and even the "Gang of Four" has died in sevens and eighties. It's just the smell of hairy crabs in my memory, but I don't know who to ask for it. No man shall be eaten, neither man nor woman shall be eaten.However, this taboo does not prevent us from having a taste of cannibalism in the name of food.What is often eaten in name is mainly some parts of the female body. "Xishi Tongue" is produced in Changle, Fuzhou. According to "Min Xiao Ji", its name is due to the fact that "the water pipe is very long and white in color, often sticking out of the shell, and its shape is like a tongue." In the Southern Song Dynasty, some people held objections to this .Lu Benzhong's poem said: "Every fish in the sea does not know its name, and hundreds of thousands of lives are a piece of soup. They are renamed Xishi Tongue for no reason, and they have a delusional relationship with children." academic hypocrisy.Obviously, "children" not only have limited knowledge of Shih Tzu, but also have no chance to taste the taste of French kissing.Liang Shiqiu also held objections, but he seemed to stand on the standpoint of defending the purity of obscenity, thinking that it was "not elegant enough, and it was too abrupt for a beauty".In fact, the name "Xishi Tongue" is not only indecent, it is terrifying.You see: "The water pipe is very long and white in color, often protruding out of the shell, and its shape is like a tongue." A long tongue is a ghost, usually a hanged ghost; white color, according to the consensus of Chinese medicine (especially southern Chinese medicine), is damp heat. Forced, it is a sign of a strong false fire; all those who rise to the false fire, regardless of men and women, regardless of beauty or ugliness, have bad breath. While the "cultural" tongue is popular, the real tongue is considered indecent.Pig tongue is the meat that Chinese people love to eat. The northerners elegantly use it as "koutiao", but the Cantonese think that "tongue" is compatible with the word "eclipse" in "eclipse", so they created it in the opposite way. A "" character instead. This ideology of diet is basically the result of long-term collective repression by the old-style literati.The following cases can reflect the severity of sexual repression: the finale of the puffer fish feast is called "Yang Fei Milk", which is a soup made from the testicles of male puffer fish.Testicles are male sexual characteristics, but after being boiled into soup, they are named after female animal sexual characteristics.This type of perversion is enough to excite sexologists.Oedipus is a manifestation of sexual repression. PaulSimon's classic work MotherAndChildReunion (mother and child reunion), the title of the song is copied verbatim from the menu of a Chinese restaurant in Chinatown, New York.How about mother-child reunion?I didn't know until it was served: scrambled chicken with eggs. Chinese cuisine has always had the habit of playing tricks on words. As far as the diet itself is concerned, it is also tricky to cook together the carcasses or eggs of the same kind of animals, and it is not delicious.The "hugging carp" in Confucian cuisine is nothing more than a big carp cooking a small carp.Playing this "mother and son" method also includes "mother and son lobster": the two dishes of "steamed lobster balls with celery" made of large lobsters and "steamed stuffed lobsters" made of crayfish are combined into one.I don't know if the crayfish here refers to relatively small lobsters, or the cheap river "lobsters" that have become popular in recent years.If it is the first case, cooking with the same kind is either boring or fraudulent; the latter is even more unfortunate, the lingering muddy smell of crayfish can only be suppressed with salt and pepper or braised in soy sauce, and steamed. It must be a lose-lose situation. The interesting name of the dish "Buddha jumps over the wall" is currently translated as Monkjump overthewall, I have also seen translated Buddhajump in the past over the wall.Although the latter is more faithful to the original work, it may be disrespectful, so the wall jumper was replaced by Monk from Buddha.But a monk is not a Buddha, at least until he passes away.In addition, the monks along the southern coast have always been influenced by the martial arts atmosphere of Southern Shaolin, and all of them are highly skilled in martial arts. It is not surprising that they can jump off the wall.The Bodhisattva is made of clay and is still. Once it jumps up, it will be more dynamic and magical, which makes this expensive dish more attractive.However, "Buddha jumps over the wall" still cannot provide evidence for the masculinization of Chinese recipes.Not to mention the monks, the gender of the Buddha in Middle Earth also tends to be feminine. There are many places where the mouth is used in restaurants.In addition to eating, you have to order food, and you have to discuss everything related to eating with the restaurant waiter.It's not a problem to order food, but whenever it's time to order people, I will have serious obstacles from my heart to my mouth.In other words, I really don't know how to call a male waiter. In the past, both the served and the server were referred to as gay in restaurants, which was as plain and simple as the recipes of the time.To be more professional, you can call both men and women "waiters", or to strengthen the tone, you can also call them "comrade waiters" completely.At the same time, in the minds of "waiters", your name is "dinner".As diners are honored as "sir" and "ma'am", the address of the waiter has been adjusted accordingly.The result of this mechanical adjustment is that the waitress is called "Miss" and the male waiter is renamed "Mr." Although this is a replica of "comrade", it is still unclear who is paying and who is receiving money.Although I have gradually gotten used to asking a "lady" with a plate for the direction of the bathroom, I just can't accept someone shouting impatiently, "Sir, I have shouted dozens of times, and you are still standing like a log." , what did you do, Mr.!" Chinese has a lot of words in this aspect.Like "shopkeeper", "little two", "man", "waiter" and so on.Only the word "man" was inherited.In Cantonese-speaking areas, customers still refer to male waiters as "buddy" in restaurants, but it is only used in small restaurants or food stalls.Also, the owner of a service industry or small business may refer to an employee as a "buddy."In some parts of the north, "buddy" is an intimate term for male acquaintances, which is similar to American slang Buddy.Therefore, when Jiang Wen said deeply in an advertisement for a certain nutritional oral liquid: "Work harder, buddy!" Most TV viewers in Guangdong and Hong Kong have always thought that this kind of nutritional liquid is more suitable for the boss of food stalls. To supplement the physical strength of the hired workers. The English expression is not good, but the stability is excellent. Waiter and Waitress have been faithfully "waiting" in the restaurant. Although there are differences in occasions and situations, they generally do not go wrong. Of course, in terms of semantic logic, since the female waitress has become "Miss", the male is naturally "Mr."In the past 20 years, "Miss" has gradually become the unanimous address of the whole society for women engaged in (legal or illegal) service industries. In contrast, such a high degree of consensus has not been reached on the word "Mr."Probably this is the source of the awkwardness. Reform is irreversible.Today, we can no longer go back to "officials", "waiters" or "comrades".Until the right words come out, those who have the same expression barrier as me may wish to refer to the following solutions: 1. Raise your hand; 2. "Hi"; 3. Only accept service from the waitress. Every time I munch on a pig’s knuckle, I always think with luck: If Mencius accidentally wrote “give up fish and take bear’s paw” as “give up fish and take pig’s paw”, it would not count as messing up the concept of life and death, righteousness and benefit of the Chinese people. Seriously, where are we going to find such cheap supreme enjoyment today? It goes without saying that pork is delicious, but pig's claws are rich in gelatin and intricate in tendons, bones, and meat. They taste no different from bear's paws.In addition to rare things, the abundance of colloids is a common feature of almost all expensive foods, such as abalone, ginseng and belly.As far as "claws" are concerned, pig's feet, chicken feet, and duck's feet are not inferior to bear's feet.According to the memories of the cannibals after civilization, the meat in the hands of a person is the most delicious, and every harvest must be offered to the chief. Pig's feet are excellent in all Chinese cuisines. Representative Cantonese dishes include "Baiyun Pork Knuckle" and "Braised Pork Knuckle with Southern Milk and Peanuts".In addition, the canned Narcissus brand braised pork knuckle produced in Fujian is also very good. It is rare for a food to be delicious after being put into a can.In the past, some food stalls in Xiamen specially advertised "canned pig's feet noodles", just as spicy hot pot restaurants would indicate "Canned Meilin Luncheon Meat" on their menus.German salted pork knuckle is also delicious. In the German restaurant in Beijing Lufthansa Kempinski Hotel, you can eat the most authentic and largest salted pork knuckle in China.The huge German trotter, if you hold it and wave it before you move the knife, you can see huge shadows passing slowly on the four walls of the restaurant, giving you the feeling of a great man. Cantonese are good at making pig feet, which may be related to their respect for this part of the pig.In Cantonese, pig's claws are called "pig's hand" instead of "cow's hand" or "sheep's hand". This is not because they only eat the front paws of pigs, but reflects a kind of good wish to regard pigs as higher animals that walk upright and beautify them. The part improves the whole, while the modification method of "phoenix claw" is to sublimate the whole to drive the part. Having a child, whether it is self-born or another, is a great opportunity to let go of the pig's knuckles.According to the customs of Guangdong, after a woman gives birth, ginger vinegar (also known as pig's foot ginger) must be made at home to nourish her weakness and promote lactation.This kind of black and thick stuff made with eggs, ginger, pork knuckle, sweet vinegar, sugar and brine is not only for personal use, but also for those who see it.It's a pity that there are not many such opportunities. Even if someone dares to violate the one-child policy, they dare not publicize it after the fact.This thing can also be bought in teahouses, but in concept, it is always a woman's product related to confinement. Although it is good, it is often missed due to many worries.Another opportunity is to celebrate the New Year. One of the Cantonese New Year dishes is "Get Rich", which is Braised Pork Knuckle with Fat Vegetables.If you still miss this expired dish after the Lunar New Year, after many years, you might as well try your luck at my restaurant on Valentine's Day.I might add the braised pork knuckle with nofa vegetables to the Valentine’s Day set menu, and consider changing the name to “My hand through your black hair”. Pork knuckle is best enjoyed at home alone.Go to the supermarket to choose "hands". Those with white skin, thin hair, bow-shaped hooves and full palms are the first choice.Then use the professional eyes of a beautician and a palmist to check whether his nails are clean and his complexion is rosy.Sprinkle refined salt slowly, ginger juice is fine and moist, then add Shaoxing wine and fire to boil, add soy sauce and turn to simmer and simmer slowly when fragrant.After serving, it is advisable to hold and eat with the left hand, forming a gesture of holding hands with the left and holding the cup with the right.As for what kind of wine is the most suitable, there are not many choices for this veritable red crispy hand. "Old Stories of Lanzhai and the Thirteen Langs of Nanhai" written by Ms. Jiang Xianzhu, who teaches cooking in the United States, and her grandfather Mr. Jiang Kongyin's life as a gourmet may provide some information for Guangzhou people who can't hold their heads up in front of "Shanghai's romance". Proustian nostalgic material. Mr. Jiang Kongyin was born in Nanhai County, Guangdong Province in the fourth year of Tongzhi.The ancestor of the Jiang family was a wealthy tea merchant known as "Jiang Million".Jiang Kongyin himself was a Hanlin under the Qing Dynasty, with the official title of Taishi.After Dianhan, he donated to the alternate road of Jiangsu, and was also listed as the admiral of the Guangdong Navy for a time.After the Revolution of 1911, Jiang Taishi held the purpose of "not being involved in two dynasties", lived in seclusion in the "Taishidi" of his ancestral home in Guangzhou, and entertained himself with poetry, books and food.At the beginning of the Republic of China, he served as the general agent of British American Tobacco Company in South China, earning a lot of money.Occupying four streets, Taishi Building, No. 10, Henan Tongdeli, Guangzhou, has a prosperous food scene. It is like the number one food family in the century. Jiang Taishi himself is the chief gourmet in Yangcheng. Jiang Taishi doesn't know cooking, but he has studied diet to a meticulous level.Therefore, every time there is a new dish launched by Fantaishidi, the major restaurants in Guangzhou, who follow his lead, immediately pirated the version and dubbed it "Taishi" to attract it.The classic handed down Cantonese cuisine "Taishi Five Snake Soup" (it is still passed down in Hong Kong and Macau, but it has declined in the birthplace of Guangzhou in the early 1990s), was born in Jiangjia Private Kitchen under the personal guidance of Jiang Taishi.Taishi has a wide range of friends, three mountains and five mountains, underworld and white roads all come here, Taishidi is full of guests all the year round, and there are constant dinners. Jiang Xianzhu still remembers that the time Chen Cheng came to Taishidi snake feast, there was traffic control in the area from Nanhua West Road to Tongdeli , all under martial law. People today often make fun of people by saying that "you don't have to have a cow to drink milk", but that's what Jiang Taishi's family did back then.Because lychees in the market were not suitable for taste, Jiang Taishi set up a farm in Luogangdong, Panyu, introduced fine varieties from all over the country, and spared no expense in cultivating them carefully.Therefore, the Jiang family not only keeps producing fruit all the year round, but also sells high-quality goods in large companies.Not only are the tea and fruit snacks all homemade, but even the chrysanthemum, the key condiment of "Taishi Five Snake Soup", is carefully cultivated by four professional flower kings hired.As the head of the Zhongming Dingshi family, Jiang Taishi "gets up at 3:00 p.m. and has lunch at 8:00 p.m., and dinner is like midnight snack, and it should be after midnight."Jiang's family "in addition to the chief cook, there is also a western cook, a dim sum cook, and a vegetarian cook, so there are so many delicious things." The decline of food in Taishidi is caused by the current situation, population and financial problems.Needless to say, Jiang Taishi's "flirty nature, he begged for a total of twelve wives", which made "Taishidi close its doors, and at least fifty or sixty people eat at every meal."And because of the poor management of his descendants, the family fell into ruin.However, Taishi still eats fine food, is hospitable and refreshing.If there is not enough cash for the banquet, each house must "contribute" jewelry and antiques, and call jade merchants to collect them at home.However, he "doesn't like big banquets for relatives and friends. There is only one table in his dining room. The dishes must be fine. Grandfather and his friends, (smoke) lights red (snakes) wine green, happy too." The remains left by the revolutionaries after the Guangzhou Uprising were buried in Huanghuagang by Jiang Kongyin and his friends. This is Jiang Taishi's chivalry; The governor of Hong Kong, Jigu Lianjie, gave two packs of white rice, but it was criticized by others.In any case, Jiang Kongyin later gave up opium during the New Life Movement, converted to Tantric Buddhism, and gave up killing since then. The Taishidi also ran out of floating wealth, and decades of prosperity and food came to an end.In 1950, the 90-year-old Jiang Taishi was in his dying years. On the eighth day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar, the Buddha's birthday, he fell and broke his leg at the gate of the Liurong Temple in Guangzhou. Then he was forcibly "purchased" because he was a rich landlord and foreign comprador who had to be liquidated. "Pretend" was carried to the Foshan township government in a bamboo basket. Jiang Kongyin died in silence. A generation of gourmets ended up on a hunger strike. The historical data quoted in "Old Stories of Lanzhai" said: "At this time, there was no food in his house, and only four leaky boards were used to bury his body in the countryside." Two packs of rice for mourning festivals, and ending with a hunger strike. Life's scallions, this is the end!"