Chapter 3 Writing Foodism-1

The provocativeness of Baozi comes from the temporary ignorance of the content, the quickness of behavior, and the spontaneous spirit of exploration.Therefore, the process of eating buns is full of fun.Many people, especially when they are too hungry, often miss this good game. The steamed stuffed bun sits quietly in the steamer. There are some pleats at the end, and the appearance is simple and honest, even a bit clumsy.At this time, the naked eye cannot see through the inside of the bun, but imagination and salivation are extremely active.In fact, the inside of the bun is nothing more than stuffing, and the stuffing can be either vegetables or meat or a mixture of vegetables and meat.We have been informed of this beforehand.However, we still can't help but imagine: what surprises "this one" bun will bring to our taste under the action of heat.Just like a craftsman in Jingdezhen, with a raging fire on his face, he imagined and looked forward to a shocking kiln transformation.

The fillings in the buns are actually not complicated.In addition to vegetables and meat, ginger, onion, salt, sesame oil or cooking wine are inseparable.In order to make the stuffing steamed to produce a thick and juicy juice with just the right amount, the key is to mix the stuffing with a proper proportion of meat jelly.The word "connotation" that has been abused at present is the most appropriate to describe the inner relationship between meat jelly and steamed stuffed buns.In addition, I personally don't like any kind of buns with a single filling, buns with all meat or all vegetables. No

It not only enriches the layers of texture, but also, I firmly believe that only under the interaction of the three basic elements of meat, vegetables and flour, can the steamed steamed stuffed bun resound with a forceful sound of nature. The steamed stuffed bun is cooked, but only the necessary part has been completed. Eating steamed stuffed bun is a completely interactive process. Next, it depends on us.In my opinion, if you want to eat a steamed stuffed bun happily, you should strictly follow the following action essentials: 1. With the palm facing up, the index finger, thumb, and middle finger are respectively held from the bottom of the steamed stuffed bun according to the top, left, and right points, leaving ample space for chewing to the side of the mouth;

2. After biting a gap as big as a copper coin (depending on the size of the bun, the ratio of 8:1 is better), you should not rush to swallow it, but first take a close look at the stuffing in the hole in the horizontal direction , and then lightly tap with the tip of the tongue to detect the temperature, and then open the mouth to make an O shape, with the upper and lower lips tightly covering the gap of the bun. At this moment, it is advisable to close your eyes and imagine the docking of the space capsule; 3. Mobilize the true qi in the dantian, suck the stuffing juice into the mouth continuously, let it spread over the tongue, and then moisten the taste buds on the four walls of the mouth. While shrinking the lips downward, push the tip of the tongue forward, which can not only send the stuffing balls that are about to move back to the nest, but also enjoy the taste and texture of the stuffing balls simultaneously when the stuffing juice gurgles into the mouth;

4. Eat the buns in one bite (up to two to three bites) without hesitation while the filling juice of the buns has not been completely absorbed.The whole set of movements is to eat buns as usual, but actually suck the juice closely, playing "Tai Chi push hands" on the tip of the tongue while others Both the skin and the stuffing are prefabricated, only the stuffing is made naturally.However, a good bun cannot have too much juice.Those oily soup dumplings are actually not delicious. It seems that the makers of the soup dumplings can't correctly understand the difference between soup and juice.I once ate a Huaiyang soup dumpling in Nanjing. The skin was thin and the soup was big. In addition to the steamed stuffed bun, I was given a straw. When I sipped it hard, the steamed stuffed bun shrank rapidly, which was very cartoonish.

Steamed buns and steamed buns, one has no fillings and the other has fillings. This is the main difference between steamed buns and steamed buns. Therefore, those who sell steamed buns often boast of "thin skin and big filling". It is based on its "hungry" and "more noodles" to allude to the flashiness of buns. If food and clothing are still a problem, it is easy to understand that steamed buns are regarded as an economical and affordable food, while steamed buns are more luxurious, or a luxury version of steamed buns.And when the problem of food and clothing is solved, food, like people, can easily be overemphasized about "have" and "haven't".In this way, Baozi and Mantou announced that they had entered a state of hostility.How can we bring this pair of babies born from the same root back to the negotiating table? You might as well try the way of the Shanghainese: the old-school Shanghainese call buns "meat buns" or "vegetable buns", just like they call buns "vegetable buns". Tea is called "tea tea" to distinguish it from "tea" without tea leaves - boiled water.This kind of orientation of "steamed buns as the body and meat fillings as the use" can indeed take care of the emotions of both parties to a certain extent, but it does not rule out that the steamed buns will sharply raise the question of "ranking first", and at the same time, the steamed buns may He also questioned: "Although there is meat, it is still steamed buns—we have been betrayed."

You can't just argue with the name, you have to start from the reality—that is, from the pure pleasure of eating.For steamed buns and steamed buns, people have different expectations from lips, tongue, teeth and the whole taste system.The joy of eating steamed buns lies in the feeling of fullness and security that fills the mouth with one bite; the joy of steamed buns lies in the pleasure of finding things in the bag when they are broken into the skin. The spirit of exploration.In this sense, all pasta can be divided into two categories: "sense of security" and "adventurous". young general.Although steamed buns and steamed buns bring us happiness in different ways, they have the same goal and lead to the same goal.

By contrast, a hamburger or sandwich with its filling sandwiched between two lumps of flour so that the edge of the filling is exposed is like a foot soldier who is not good at ambushes, not only self-defeating, but also very boring to the opponent.As for the pizza, once served, the gate of the city has been opened, and the inside and outside have been peacefully liberated. As I write this, I find that although this matter has been raised to the height of the principle of "speaking dedication", and a "clash of civilizations" has been introduced in an attempt to create an atmosphere of solidarity with the same hatred, the tension between steamed buns and steamed buns is still not there. There is the slightest sign of easing up.It wasn't until I entered a supermarket with anxiety that I suddenly realized: steamed buns in the industrial age, because of their hardness, thick skin and little filling, have already made a thorough and boring end to the grievances and grievances between them and steamed buns.In the Edo period, if two Japanese samurai agreed to a duel, if one of them ran to the door of the opponent's house and hanged himself on the eve of the duel, the one who survived would be recognized as having suffered great humiliation. His honor was ruined, and he was ashamed to see others for the rest of his life.In this way, Baozi finally defeated steamed buns.

Mr. Tao Jie, a writer, said that men’s criteria for choosing a mate are nothing more than the two factions of “Mantou” and “Steamed Buns”: “The Mantou faction seeks virtuousness, not talent, just like the simplicity of Mantou, which is already a good choice. The representative is Hu Shi’s wife, Jiang Dongxiu; the “Baozi School” requires a little bit of spiritual communication when marrying a wife. A woman has a little bit of ink, and she is educated, like a bun with stuffing, unique and beautiful. Representative: Qin Guan’s wife, Su Xiaomei. Since people's temperament can be divided into food types, is there a "steamed bun" and "baozi" that have the best of both worlds?Yes, the so-called ultra-thick leather buns, or steamed buns that were accidentally filled with a small amount of filling, lay frozen in a corner of the freezer under the cold light of any supermarket, with a peaceful expression.

A dinner that ends with dessert, like a long sigh, is a perfect bliss. Dessert, the English Dessert commonly used in Chinese and Western menus is borrowed from French, specifically referring to the dessert after the main meal, which is different from the snacks of TeaTime. Corresponding to desserts are appetizers, which are rarely sweet and far less varied than desserts.Since Jacques Derrida thinks that the appetizer is equivalent to the preface or introduction to a book, so I can safely point out that the dessert is equivalent to the epilogue or epilogue of the book.There are countless introductions or prefaces that have become classics, but well-written postscripts are rare.

The appetizer is generally accepted for its obvious utility, but the ending is ambiguous.A successful dessert should have both the happiness of the finale and the sadness of the eulogy, so as to control the "end" of the fire. Western-style desserts are colorful, especially Italian and French.As soon as gorgeous desserts such as Tiramisu and Sabayon appear, the dining table becomes a flyover for the spring show.As a representative of Italian desserts, Tiramisu, which has a gorgeous appearance and a charming posture, has become popular all over the world.It uses the bitterness of Espresso (espresso), the moistness of eggs and sugar, the alcohol of liqueur, the richness of chocolate, the denseness of finger biscuits, the aroma of cheese and whipped cream, and the dryness of cocoa powder. Ten kinds of materials combine "sweetness" and all kinds of intricate experiences that sweetness can evoke to the extreme. The dominance of Italian desserts may be related to Italians' special understanding of "sweet".The Italian Dolce, which is often found in music scores, often suggests a certain "sweet" and "sad" style under the "sweet" theme, which is not available in other languages.However, once the sweet sadness starts, it is easy to aggregate into a suffocating coquettish and decadent. It was Fellini's "Sweet Life" (LaDolceVita/1960). This year, the Venetians invented tiramisu. ) tone. As a meal terminator, Western-style desserts always point to a linear climax. E. Allende directly pointed out in "Spring Meal" that "desserts are the ultimate in intimacy and indulgence", which can make the pure and flawless saints "shine with glamorous light in their eyes". Traditional Chinese food is misunderstood as despising desserts, but there is no shortage of candied fruit, fruit, etc. in grand banquet occasions, and what is despised may only be the order.In fact, many Chinese desserts are suitable to end dinner, such as dumplings in Chengdu and Ningbo, and red bean paste and mung bean paste that can be seen everywhere.However, these desserts are often too sweet and blatantly sweet, and they lack compassion. The famous dessert "Phoenix Milk Paste" in Xiguan, Guangzhou, has this kind of will that you are willing to give up until you die, which is more suitable for the end of a happy reunion. create. In contrast, Japanese food really lacks original desserts, and most dishes end with a green tea ice cream.This may be related to the lack of the concept of "end" by the Japanese, or they have a very unique view on this matter. If flour-based western food is always led to heaven by cake-based desserts, then noodles return to noodles, rice returns to rice, and grain-based Chinese food should end with rice.Therefore, I think the homemade sweet wine made in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces can best express the complex mood of "all things in the world".It is clean and not extravagant. There may be only a small amount of goose yellow osmanthus floating between the moon and the wind. It is served in a small blue and white bowl. The sweet and sour are intertwined with the blur of wine, the sweetness of rice, the lingering of yeast and the flavor of ice. wide awake.If "Sadness and Joy" makes you feel that Master Hongyi is overdone and abrupt, it should be appropriate to say "It's a cool autumn" in your heart. "Huainanzi" said: "The more people get anaconda, they think it is a delicacy, and the Chinese get it is useless." Su Dongpo's concubine ate snake soup as seafood by mistake when he was in Huizhou. Afterwards, he learned that what he ate was a snake. He died a month later.Even today, for most of the "Chinese" living in "China", this Cantonese hobby is still a terrible custom. However, Shandong people occasionally eat snakes. There is a piece of "Snake Addiction" in "Liaozhai", which says: "Lu Fengning, the servant of Puling, the king of Yuxiang, is addicted to snakes. Whenever he gets a small snake, he swallows it whole, like eating a green onion. If the big one is cut off inch by inch, Start to eat. Chewing, blood stains the chin. And good at smelling, taste the smell of snakes from the other side of the wall, rush to the outside of the wall, and get a snake full of feet. There is no knife at the time, and the head is bitten first, and the tail is still winding in the mouth. occasion." Pu Songling may believe that Cantonese eat snakes much like Lu Fengning.But in the eyes of Cantonese, although this way of eating is vigorous, it is too wasteful.Don't eat small snakes, don't eat snake heads, and don't eat them raw. Cantonese people who can only smell the "snake fragrance" are born with a nose. Introducing the old and bringing forth the new, boiled snake and "salt and pepper snake lu" are popular in Guangzhou.The restaurant chain "Huishijia" in Guangzhou advertises itself as "Salt and Pepper Shelu" and advertises it in full-page local high-end magazines.The ad, with a black background, is lined with a golden plate of "Salt and Pepper Snake Lu", with a line of small characters: "Founded in 1987", it is definitely not inferior to the expensive imported leather goods advertisements in the same magazine. The culmination of traditional snake dishes, the "Dragon Tiger and Phoenix Conference", is also a masterpiece of Cantonese cuisine. At the beginning of 1965, Major Che Guevara, the Cuban revolutionary leader, visited Guangzhou. At the welcome dinner, the host talked with Comrade Che about the world revolution and exchanged guerrilla experience. The "dragon, tiger and phoenix conference" formed by the meeting was completely annihilated.Previously, the "Dragon, Tiger and Phoenix Conference" also entertained Marshal Voroshilov, the distinguished guest of the Chinese people, as a national delicacy. Major Guevara and Marshal Voroshilov are both people who were born and died in the rain of bullets. Only snakes are afraid of them, and they are not afraid of snakes. A custom without prejudice.However, this does not mean that eating snakes no longer amazes allies.A few years ago, the stock of the sun god was listed overseas, because it advertised that it contained the essence of snakes, chickens and other things. On the night of the listing, two financial anchors of a TV station in the United States did not take the Greek concept of apollo seriously at all. A "snakestock (snake stock)" to talk about endlessly.A long time ago, some Chinese could not bear to see this. Lin Yutang once warned foreigners: "No one can convince me that snake meat is as delicious as chicken. I have lived in China for 40 years, and a snake is as delicious as chicken." I have never eaten it, nor have I seen any of my relatives and friends eat it... Eating snake meat is a rare thing for Chinese and Westerners alike." Either Lin Yutang never regarded Cantonese as Chinese, or he stepped forward and did a stupid thing in ignorance.In fact, the views of foreigners are not unreasonable.The reason why Adam and Eve ate the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden was that they were tempted by the serpent.Eating an apple and then a snake is like eating a genetic tomato before eating the Frankenstein who developed genetic food.Actually, what is eating a snake?It was once fashionable for Europeans to eat mummies. Even the Cantonese themselves have deep misunderstandings about eating snakes.They hopelessly firmly believe that snake meat is far more nourishing and aphrodisiac than delicious, and the strange smelly snake whip can even achieve the miraculous effect of "supplementing form with form".If you really want to "make up the shape with the shape", if you want to strengthen the yang, you might as well just follow the example of Lu Fengning from Shandong and swallow a snake whole. To say that a person "doesn't think about tea and rice" refers to a negative attitude that the person adopts to food because of being in a bad mood and self-inflicted.Corresponding to "tea" and "rice", are "thirst" and "hungry" respectively.In other words, if such a person is willing to eat but insists on refusing to drink tea, he can ignore it, because he can completely supplement enough liquid and water in the broad sense of "rice". But things get complicated when the word describes a Cantonese person.In comparison, skipping meals is not so important, because a Cantonese can pack a lot of starch, fat and calories into his stomach when drinking tea.On the other hand, if the Cantonese person only eats and does not drink tea, although his health is fine, it is a sign that this person may have serious functional impairments in interpersonal communication, and may even have a potential tendency to autism . The formation of the habit of drinking tea is probably related to the status of Guangzhou in the tea trade since the opening of the port, because Guangdong is not a traditional tea producing area, and the current Cantonese (except the Chaoshan area) actually do not know how to drink tea very well. Whether it is green tea or black tea, new or old, tender or old, it will all be poured into boiling water. The so-called "boiling water makes tea beautiful" is still a century-old consensus among tea drinkers and teahouses.In fact, a Cantonese tea drinker who goes to a teahouse to drink tea doesn't really care about his tea.Pu'er Chrysanthemum Narcissus Oolong Shoumei, he is just used to one of them, as long as he mechanically ordered a sentence when he was seated, and opened the lid at the right time, showing the secret sign to refill the water, he completed an impeccable The basic actions of a standard tea drinker. As a public space, teahouses, like cafes and bars, are necessary NGO forums in the city, but teahouses in Guangdong are very different from those in other provinces.People from other provinces also go to teahouses, but whether it is drinking tea or chatting, the purpose is very clear, which is to pass the time.Tea drinking in Guangdong is much more ambiguous.On the one hand, tea and food are more important tea drinking items than tea; on the other hand, the tea and food battle can be either the traditional one cup or two, or it can be transformed into a more formal meal without any trace.Formally, drinking tea can be used for breakfast, lunch, supper, or nothing at all.Functionally, drinking tea provides a gray area between "is to eat" and "not to eat", the third way between formal and casual, taking advantage of this uncertain "tea drinking state", Guangdong People have to properly arrange and handle those people and things that need to eat and those that don't need to eat, as well as related social relations.These people can include: colleagues who have a normal relationship, who just don’t want to eat bento at noon that day, acquaintances who haven’t seen each other for a while, old neighbors who met by chance during meal time, contractors who are in charge of new house decoration projects, etc.; Things dealt with under "state" include: blind dates where both parties feel that they are not sure about it, sales and purchases that may not have a chance to be negotiated, but it is okay to hear, all things that have no reason, problems that are not a problem, and so on. Opportunism is only one side of the tea-drinking state.If happy families are all similar, then in Guangdong, the biggest similarity lies in the tea drinking of a family.In terms of the function of reflecting family harmony, drinking tea is extremely dogmatic.A family with the old and the young going to the teahouse is mostly happy and happy. If a family of Cantonese people rarely go to the teahouse, or the number of times of drinking tea has plummeted recently, even though they often eat out, there are still hidden worries worthy of vigilance.A charity group in Hong Kong once said in a TV advertisement advocating caring for orphans: "These children are miserable. They have no toys and no tea..." For children, the pain of not having tea is almost equivalent to that of their parents. The tragedy of an adult losing a teahouse is tantamount to cutting off the incense.Human beings are the sum of social relations, and the social relations of Cantonese people are all summed up in the teapot when they are washed with boiling water and the lid is closed. On a weekend last month, I rushed to Shanghai from a long distance, just to go on a delicious date that I have been waiting for for a year. My friends Lao Cao and his wife, a pair of crab idiots on the beach.In October last year, Lao Cao drove to Yangcheng Lake, where hairy crabs are produced, and personally selected a basket like a beauty pageant, and let us eat at Cao's house until dark at night.But Lao Cao said, nine females and ten males, although this month is the female's fat, we all eat "little mouthfuls", but when you come next November, we will eat the male's again. I have been looking forward to this day forever.Since the beginning of autumn this year, the ghostly and mischievous hybrid hairy crabs that have parachuted to Beijing, Guangzhou, and Hong Kong have always adhered to the established policy of no contact, no negotiation, and no dealings. Encouraged by Boyi and Gandhi, he sat still and looked forward to the crab meeting of the Cao family without seeing it. The crab appointment at Cao’s family was on Sunday. After leaving the Shanghai airport on the weekend night, because they wanted to meet up with friends from Fuzhou, they rushed to Lilac Garden by car first, and got caught in a meal.Just like most fashionable restaurants in Shanghai, Lilac Garden (the former residence of Li Hongzhang), which is full every day, is also a bluff.After eating some indiscriminately, I went back to the hotel and waited for digestion. At 12 o'clock, at this time, I can only go to the food street on Huanghe Road.Seeing that the hairy crabs in a crab pond were good-looking, with green shells and golden hairs, and they could walk upright on the glass, I was excited. One mother, each ate two.It is crab, the meat is thick, and the paste is fat, but it lacks umami.What's more, after eating, the hands that should be covered with crab roe and crab smell can be washed off, and the stomach will be a little hungry, so I fill a big pot with thick salted fresh meat, and serve it aggressively. Weird thing. Nothing to say all night.At noon the next day, still not giving up, I went to the street market to buy the most expensive Wuliang crab for steaming. As a result of DIY (do-it-yourself), the failure is even more ugly, almost like packing up the leftover crab pieces from Huanghe Road last night and bringing them back to bite again. After finally waiting until it was dark, he knocked open the door of Cao's house, did not greet much, and walked into the kitchen like searching for a fugitive.But on the workbench, there were more than 20 obedient dogs already lined up in a neat formation, and on the gas stove opposite, a large pot of boiling water was neighing happily.Mrs. Cao said that although the crabs last year were also bought in Yangcheng Lake, she still felt that the crab market next to the road was not authentic enough.Early this morning, Lao Cao drove straight to Bacheng on the shore of Yangcheng Lake. First, he entered the restaurant owned by the crab farmer through the front door, and then the crab farmer led the way to Yangcheng Lake with a boat from the back door. Each one was worth more than seven taels.I picked one up, and when I looked closely under the lamp, it was really sharp. The belly button was white and full, and the bulging fat was ready to come out. Under the translucent skin of the crab's leg joints, there was a golden fragrance floating... I can't remember what happened afterwards.I only know that there were four and a half crabs in a row that night, which added up to four catties.In addition, during this process, the only thing I have seriously thought about is the following: Compared with my loyalty after the fall of this year, Lao Cao’s Taoism is many times higher, and the Shanghai-Nanjing Expressway has more than 100 round trips. If it were me, the car would be able to drive back. Most of the crabs would be boiled in the water of Yangcheng Lake, and they would be eaten up on the spot. Now, smelling the remaining crab smell on my fingertips, and looking forward to the Cao Family Crab Fair a year later, I have gradually come to the conclusion that we are neither aquatic zoologists nor experts in the crab industry. This friend only has a short talk once a year, and his appearance is not easy to remember. Therefore, the judgment of a good crab should be judged by oneself: 1. After eating crabs, whether all fingers are dyed, and there are signs of a crab. The stubborn fishy smell that doesn't go away after washing for several days; second, after eating crabs (regardless of the quantity, half a crab is also counted), will they firmly refuse to eat other things? This "post-learning" of crab eating is similar to high jump and love, and it is an art of regret. I have always believed that the steaming invented by us Chinese is the highest level of all cooking methods, although due to various reasons, it failed to lead to two great inventions of varying degrees, the steam engine and the sauna in China. According to research, our ancestors knew how to cook food with water about 10,000 years ago, after the appearance of pottery, and steaming is the deformation of boiling.From boiling to steaming, it took about 5,000 years.The emergence of steaming has greatly accelerated the diversification of cooking techniques. Frying and deep-frying techniques came out one after another within the next thousand years, that is, in the Shang and Zhou dynasties.Steaming is not only the second largest invention in the history of human cooking since the creation of fire, but also a major turning point with far-reaching significance: it rewrites the original equation of direct heating of food with fire or water.As far as cooking is concerned, if there is no steaming, we will never taste the blending of the five flavors and the taste of stewing and braising resulting from its changes; There is a huge difference between direct and indirect, from concrete to abstract, all of which are sublimated in this wonderful process of gradually heating up, and the sky is also full of clouds and clouds, no longer lonely and boundless, almost infinitely transparent blue. . There are many foods that are unimaginable without steaming.In other words, these foods were invented for steaming. Needless to say, steamed buns and zongzi, like cloud leg and Jinhua ham, hairy crabs and most fish, there is basically no choice but to steam them.The cooking skills of Cantonese cuisine are largely reflected in steaming, and steaming is the highest courtesy for a good fish.Steaming can cycle-dialyze the same fish by relying on the evaporated umami taste of the fish itself without adding any flavor (except ginger, scallion, etc.), so as to maintain the original flavor of the fish to the greatest extent. . Steaming not only maintains the original flavor of food, but also best preserves the integrity and serenity of its body and expression.In addition, two or more kinds of food are steamed together. After the lid is lifted, the heat mist will dissipate, but seeing the cooked food in the cage, you are still you and I am me at this moment, and it will definitely not be boiled or fried. The thing that was made into a bloody mess.However, this is actually just an illusion, because at the high level of metaphysics, their respective tastes have already blended with each other, there is me in you, and you in me.This state needs to be created when steaming some foods that have a weak taste or need to "reduce the taste" of each other.Take steamed fish as an example, for sweet-scented osmanthus fish, bamboo shoot shell fish, etc., in order to enrich the taste, Cantonese people often spread olive horns, shredded mushrooms or ham slices all over the body of the side-lying fish that has been neatly cut several times. , After some cloud and rain, the fish is full of the flavor of the ingredients, and the ingredients are also contaminated with fresh fish, as if they have been subjected to the soul-shifting method.In addition, in a seamless and proper fish steaming process, not only will the magic of the steam not confuse the fish and the ingredients in appearance, but even the deep structure of the fish itself, the veins between the flesh and blood are still clearly maintained. critical state. Although the items that can be steamed have gradually increased on the menu, and the cooking utensils in the kitchen have also continued to improve, the traditional steamer made of bamboo, wood or rattan wire still enjoys an irreplaceable position.The most alluring thing is actually the natural friendly taste that wooden and bamboo steamers add to food.Iron or aluminum alloy steamers that can rain when the lid is lifted are also very common. Guangzhou people are also obsessed with copper pipes besides silk and bamboo.Like Shunde Chencun Noodles (rice noodles) and large-pan steamed chicken that have been popular in the past two years, the authentic ones must be steamed on copper and aluminum pans. In addition to paying attention to heat transfer performance, what is required is the steamed metal. taste. If the concept of sauce vat culture is established, it is not a false proposition whether there is still a steamer culture.It's just that the latter has not been theoretically sorted out and explained for the time being, but it is not difficult to obtain a direct and perceptual understanding, as long as you take time to take a sauna.