Chapter 48 Chapter 10 Allusions to Tea-1

The origin and evolution of the ancient Chinese word tea is not only a matter of changing the name of tea, it can be said that it is a microcosm of the history of Chinese tea science and tea culture.The appearance of the word tea in ancient Chinese and its evolution in different historical stages just shows that China is the hometown of tea, one of the world's three major beverages, tea, coffee and cocoa, and is the origin of tea.China is the first country in the world to discover the use of tea, and the first to practice artificial cultivation, processing and manufacturing of tea, making it a civilized drink and commodity for human beings.

Lu Yu said at the beginning of "The Book of Tea: The Origin of One": "Tea makers are also the best trees in the south. One foot, two feet, or even tens of feet. .Its characters are either from grass, or from wood, or a combination of grass and trees. "Paint Congcao, as tea, its characters come from "Kaiyuan Characters Sound and Meaning"; from wood as , its characters come from "Materia Medica"; grass and trees are combined as tea, its characters come from "Er Ya". , One is called tea, the second is called 槚 [jia sound Jia] the third is called 莈 [she sound set], the fourth is called tea, and the fifth is called 荈 [chuan sound Chuan].Zhou Gongyun: 槚, bitter tea.

Yang Zhiji said: People in the southwest of Sichuan call tea a tea.Guo Hongnong said: Take it early as tea, and take it later as Ming, or one is called scorpion ear. Lu Yu also summarized the beginning of drinking tea in "The Classic of Tea Six Drinks" as: "The drinking of tea originated from Shennong, and it was heard from Duke Zhou of Lu." Lu Yu's discussion on the word tea in "The Classic of Tea" can be said to basically summarize the origin and evolution of the word tea in ancient Chinese and its relationship with the history of Chinese tea science and tea culture.As early as in ancient times, the ancestors of the Chinese nation discovered wild tea and its medicinal value, although it appeared in written records, it may be much later than the objective reality.

Why did Lu Yu say that "tea as a drink originated from Shennong, and it was heard from Duke Zhou of Lu"? The Shennong family is one of the "Yanhuang" who is usually called the ancestor of the Chinese nation together with the Yellow Emperor-the ancient Yandi who was king of Huode.Relevant literature records: Shennong was born in Jiangshui, about the west of Qishan County, Shaanxi Province. He took Jiang as his surname and began to make Leisi. He taught the people to do farming, so he was named Shennong; To treat illnesses, to set up a market for chan cicadas: the housing blocks of common people in ancient cities, with currency, the capital was Chen at first, and then moved to Lu, and collapsed after 120 years of establishment, and was buried in Changsha.Shennong is the leader of the ancient tribal society in the transition period from hunting to farming. The Shennong family created a new era of human agricultural production.

"Tea as a drink originated from Shennong's family" is a legend quoted by the author of "The Classic of Tea" from "Shennong's Materia Medica": "Shennong tasted a hundred herbs, encountered seventy-two poisons a day, and got tea to cure them." Shennong is the first to discover the medicinal value of tea in the world. Duke Zhou was a politician of the slave-owner class in the early Western Zhou Dynasty.Mingdan, also known as Shudan, is the son of King Wen of Zhou and the younger brother of King Wu of Zhou.He once assisted King Wu to defeat Zhou and destroy Shang, and assisted King Cheng to regent.Because the beneficiary was in the northeast of Qishan, Shaanxi Province today, it was called Zhou Gong; and because the state of Zhou State in the Western Zhou Dynasty was the feudal land of Zhou Gong in the early Western Zhou Dynasty, and the king of Lu State was the descendant of Zhou Gong, so it was also called Lu Zhou Gong .He lived around the eleventh century BC to the beginning of the tenth century.According to legend, the earlier document "Er Ya" was originally written by Duke Zhou. "Erya · Shimu" has a record of "槚jia: the ancient word for tea is bitter tea".This is the origin of "Tea is known to be drunk by Duke Zhou of Lu".

The discovery of tea by the Chinese ancestors has been more than 5,000 years, if calculated from the legend that Shennong tasted all kinds of herbs and found that tea can detoxify; It also has a history of more than 3,000 years.Therefore, it can be said that tea actually entered human daily life as long as the ancient and splendid history of civilization of the Chinese nation.This is unmatched by any country or nation in the world. Although scholars in later generations have different opinions on the author and writing time of "Shen Nong's Materia Medica" and "Erya", tea, as a precious drink, has entered the daily life of the Western Zhou court, which is supported by historical documents.

According to "Zhou Li", the official position of "Zhang Tu" was set up in the court in the Western Zhou Dynasty. According to a native of Jiangping, Shu County, Changju County in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, he was named Daojiang.He once served as a Sanqi regular servant during the Li Shi regime of the Cheng Han Dynasty from 343 to 347 AD.The "Huayang Guozhi · Ba Zhi" records: In the 11th year after King Wu of Zhou conquered Zhou and King Wu of Shang Zhou, after 1066 BC, the Bashu area, which is now Sichuan, started from Fengjie County in the east and reached Yibin County in Yibin City in the west; "Dan lacquer tea honey" and other local local products were presented as tributes to the royal family of the Zhou Dynasty.It is also specially recorded in the article: "The treasure of its fruit is the fragrant tea in the garden." The above two cases are the earliest written records about the use of tea in history that can be seen in the literature.From this, it can be inferred that tea, as a precious drink, actually entered the daily life of the ancestors, at least as far back as the late Shang Dynasty.

In the Western Han Dynasty, there were many written records on tea affairs.Sima Xiangru's 179-117 BC "Fan Jiang Pian" has successively recorded the "Chuancha": the late-picked tea can be used as medicine.Wang Bao of the Western Han Dynasty [Zizhong is a native of Ziyang County, Sichuan Province. From 73 BC to 49 BC, Emperor Xuan served as a counselor. ] In the "Tongyao" article written in 59 years ago, Emperor Xuan Shenjue wrote "Wuyang buys tea" and "cooks all kinds of tea" in three years.This is an important document in the history of tea science before the publication of The Classic of Tea.Its significance lies in the fact that the unmistakable interpretation of tea appeared in the literature of the Han Dynasty more than 1900 years ago, even though the word "tea" had not been reduced at that time; It shows that during the period of Emperor Xuandi of the Han Dynasty, Wuyang (now Pengshan County, Sichuan Province) has become the production and distribution center of tea at that time; the third is that in the middle and late Western Han Dynasty, tea, as a commodity drink and corresponding exquisite tea sets, has entered the ranks of officials and bureaucrats. Daily life at home.

"Yang holding the halberd cloud: 'People in the southwest of Shu call tea 莈'" This is also an example of people in the Western Han Dynasty speaking the word tea, which comes from "Dialect".Yang Zhiji refers to Yang Xiong's word Ziyun from 53 BC to 18 AD.A native of Chengdu, Shu County, Western Han Dynasty.Although he stutters, he is seldom eager to learn, good at Ci and Fu, and likes to write exegetical texts. He once wrote "Dialect" and "Fayan".Yang Xiong was famous for his articles and was respected by the people of the time. He was also one of the four great talents of the Han, Wei and Jin Dynasties admired by Lu Yu.

Because he served as the servant from 33 to 7 years before Emperor Cheng of the Han Dynasty, and Wang Mang was a doctor in the new dynasty, so he was called "Yang Zhiji". "Guo Hongnong said: 'Early harvesting is tea, late harvesting is tea, or scorpion ear'." This is the first time in classical literature that the basic difference in the names of teas harvested according to different seasons or times appears.Guo Hongnong, that is, Guo Pu 276-324, with the word Jing Chun. Because he was posthumously named "Hongnong County Taishou" after his death, he was called "Guo Hongnong".Wenxi in Hedong in the Jin Dynasty is now a native of Shanxi.He has a lot of knowledge, is good at diction and Fu, and his literary Fu is the crown of the Eastern Jin Dynasty.During the reign of Emperor Yuan of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, he served as Zhuo Lang and Shang Shu Lang.Good scriptures, ancient prose and strange characters, once interpreted "Erya", "Dialect", etc.The distinction between "tea" and "ming or yue yue" can be found in Guo Zuo's "Erya" commentary.

"荈" - an ancient tea character, was first seen in Du Yu's "荈 Fu", written about 290-306 years of Emperor Hui of the Western Jin Dynasty. "Ode to Fu" tells the story of people traveling together in the tea mountains in the autumn when the farming is slack, picking tea on the bank of the Minjiang River, making it on the spot, and drawing water to decoct tea for drinking.This is also consistent with Guo Pu's saying that the tea picked late is "or 荈'er". In the annotation of "The Classic of Tea", the word "Taking grass as tea" comes from the "Kaiyuan Character Sound and Meaning". ", was changed according to "Kaiyuan Characters, Sound and Meaning", not Lu Yu's first creation.According to the textual research in the "Review of the Tea Classics": "The thirty volumes of "Kaiyuan Characters Yinyi" were lost. Tang Xuanzong wrote "Kaiyuan Characters Yinyi" and lost it. There are three hundred and twenty similar calligraphy books. It can be seen that the omission of "tea" and the current "tea" character were determined by Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty in the form of imperial writings." The ancient tea character - "tea" is reduced by one stroke to make "tea". Although it began in Kaiyuan 713-714, the work was done by Tang Minghuang and the scribes who participated in the revision of calligraphy: According to records: In May of the eleventh year of Kaiyuan, Tang Xuanzong Lizheng Academy was set up, and the bachelors of literature gathered together, either repairing books or serving as lecturers, but it was not until the middle of the Tang Dynasty, around the publication of Lu Yu's "Tea Classic", that the word "tea" was widely used and popularized. If we sum up the tea characters in ancient Chinese, including monosyllabic polysyllables and double-syllables with double meanings, and discuss it, it may be of interest to readers who love tea culture.Such as: Tea - the original word for tea.In addition to the ancient tea characters and the names of bitter vegetables, it can also be used as "tea fire", "tea charcoal", "too poison" and other polysemous interpretations; tea—two sounds and double meanings: when the sound is cha, it is the ancient word for tea; when the sound is tu At that time, it was used as an alias of catalpa wood; bitter tea was used as the name solution of tea and Polygonum bitter vegetable at the same time;Catalpa is a tall deciduous tree, often planted with pine in front of the tomb; Chai - another name for tea, an ancient dialect in Southwest Sichuan; Chai - late-picked tea, a synonym for Ming; Chai - late-picked Tea, as a noun in traditional Chinese medicine; Jiacha - "Jiyun": "tea tea, one is called Jiacha"; tea - is the general name of various categories and varieties of tea in ancient and modern China and abroad, and also refers to tea trees, which belong to camellia The family is an evergreen shrub or tree. Its height varies according to the tea tree species. The leaves are oblong and serrated. In autumn, there are white flowers and five petals between the leaves. The fruit is oblate and triangular. In summer and autumn, tender leaves are picked and made into beverages. Tea young can be squeezed for oil, and its material is fine and fine, which can be used for carving. The name is Ming, and the word for tea is tea; Wrote the book "Yupian"; one said "tea picked late", see Zhu Guo Pu's "Erya Notes"; modern and ancient times also use Ming as the general name of tea. The above is our summary and explanation of the word "tea" seen in ancient documents. However, when we made an in-depth analysis of these ten ancient tea characters, including four compound words, we were surprised to find the following interesting questions: 1.The origin of these tea characters and their appearance at a certain historical stage are by no means accidental.Like a prism, they fully reflect the glorious history of the tea drinking culture of our Chinese nation for more than 3,000 years from different sides.Since there is an official position of "handling tea" in "Zhou Li", it shows that tea has been used as a sacrificial offering or court tea in the court of the Western Zhou Dynasty, and the etiquette system has been fixed.And Jin Changju recorded in "Huayang Guozhi Bazhi" that after King Wu of Zhou defeated Zhou and destroyed Shang, the tribal leaders in Bashu area used tea as a native product and presented it to King Wu of Zhou in Jin Dynasty, which just proved that in the early Western Zhou Dynasty Tea drinking culture has entered the court life of the Western Zhou Dynasty. 2.Most of the authors who recorded ancient tea characters or allusions about tea in historical documents were some famous talents in the Western Han or Jin Dynasties, and most of them were from Western Shu [now Sichuan]. For example, Sima Xiangru, a poet and fu writer of the Western Han Dynasty who wrote "Fan Jiang Pian", and Yang Xiong, a writer of Western Han Dynasty who wrote "Dialect", were both from Chengdu in Hanshu County; They are from Ziyang County in Zizhong, Sichuan today, and Chongqing, Sichuan from Jiangyuan, Sichuan, respectively; Du Yu of the Western Jin Dynasty who wrote "Fu" was not from Xishu, but in his works he wrote about the northeastern part of Xichuan. The story of cooking tea and tasting springs in Jiangzhibin.These ancient literati, spanning several dynasties, the Han Dynasty, the Three Kingdoms, and the Western Jin Dynasty, for more than three centuries, in different historical stages, the ancient tea characters and allusions recorded in different genres of historical documents , is by no means an accidental historical fit, but just proves that China is the hometown of tea, and Sichuan is one of the origins of tea trees in my country.As early as the early Western Zhou Dynasty, the history of artificial cultivation of tea gardens began in Bashu area.According to legend, during the Western Han Dynasty, Zen Master Wu Lizhen planted seven celestial tea trees in Ganlu Temple, Shangqingfeng, Mengshan, Ya'an. From then on, the history of artificial cultivation of tea trees in Mengshan, Sichuan began.Although more than 2,000 years have passed, Mengding Huangya and Mengding Ganlu produced in Mengding Mountain, Mingshan County, Sichuan Province are still the top-grade famous teas in Sichuan. 3.Many tea characters in the ancient Chinese listed above also embody the natural law of survival of the fittest in the historical process of the development of the tea culture of the Chinese nation. Most of the ancient tea characters or derivative tea characters in dialects gradually and naturally It is abolished.Of course, this includes the contributions made by ancient philologists in refining and purifying national languages.The ancient Chinese characters for tea, now only survive the two most vital characters "tea" and "ming".The two characters of tea and tea, with pure pronunciation and meaning, can best reflect the natural beauty of tea, the infinite charm and the quaint style of tea drinking culture.Therefore, high-quality and famous teas are becoming more and more popular among tea drinkers. 4.About the pronunciation and writing of tea characters: Due to my country's vast territory and numerous ethnic groups, in the process of tea production, trade and circulation, several ethnic groups and some regional dialects have quite different pronunciations of tea characters.For example, the Dai people in Yunnan pronounce it "la", the Miao people in Guizhou pronounce it "chuta", the Cantonese tea character is pronounced "cha", Xiamen and Shantou pronounce it "te", and the Yangtze River Basin, Central China or North China pronounce it "cha". "chai", "zhau" or "cha".After Chinese tea was spread to countries all over the world, the pronunciation of the word "tea" in these countries and regions was a literal translation of the title of tea given by the people in the tea exporting ports of our country.For example, "cha" in Japanese and "cha" in Indian are the original sounds of Chinese tea characters, "tea" in English, "tha" in French, "thee" in German, and "thee" in Latin are all according to It is translated from the pronunciation of the people in the coastal areas of Guangdong and Fujian in my country.In order to let readers understand the pronunciation and writing methods of the word "tea" in the languages ​​of some ethnic groups in my country and some countries in the world, the "Writing of the word "tea" in 25 ethnic groups in China" published in the first issue of "Chinese Tea People" in 1995 and "Writing of "Tea" in 12 Languages ​​of the World" are attached as the fourth appendix of this book, and are attached to this chapter for readers to refer to. ——Introducing the ups and downs of Chinese tea production in the past and present 1.The origin of Chinese tribute tea The origin of tribute tea starts with the word "tribute".What is tribute?It is one of the feudal systems to pay the lower to the upper as a tribute.According to legend, paying tribute is a taxation system that began in the Xia Dynasty from about the 21st century BC to the 17th century BC.Tribute is generally received in kind, native products, treasures, etc.Later, after Yi currency, it was paid to the court.In Shang Dynasty (17th century BC - 11th century BC) and Zhou Dynasty (11th century BC - 256 BC), princes paid tribute to the emperor.The principle of tribute is to use local products as tribute.The tribute received by the emperor is stored in the special treasury, which is used as the expenses of court feasts, rewards, royal family and special events. Tribute tea is one of the local and precious products offered to the imperial court under the feudal system. It is another way of paying in kind besides the tax system.Tribute tea is exclusively for the royal family or rewards.At the beginning, tribute tea was only paid once a year, and later it was divided into spring tribute, summer tribute, and autumn tribute, and tribute tea from one place in spring was divided into multiple "gangs" and sent to the imperial court in batches. . Where did tribute tea originate from?This dates back to the early years of the Western Zhou Dynasty more than 3,000 years ago.According to Jin Changzhu's "Huayang Guozhi Bazhi", after King Wu of Zhou destroyed the Yin and Shang Dynasties, the tribes in the land of Bashu used "silkworm hemp, fish salt, copper and iron, lacquer and tea dense, tortoise and giant rhinoceros". , pheasant, white pheasant, Huangrun fresh powder, all of which are paid tribute." "Its fruit is precious, the tree has lychee, the vine has cinnamon, and the garden has fragrant tea." At that time, the tribes in the land of Bashu paid many tributes to King Wu of Zhou, and tea was listed as a precious tribute. of.This is the earliest record about tribute tea, and also the earliest record of using tea as a precious drink.But at that time, the Bashu tribe only chose local famous and high-quality specialties to present to King Wu, which was not the tribute tea system stipulated by the Zhou Dynasty.However, according to the records of "Huayang Guozhi Bazhi", it was produced in Ziyang County, Qin Dynasty, which is now in Huangu Township, Shaanxi Province. Tea was also presented to the court as a tribute in the Eastern Han Dynasty.In order to increase the production of tribute tea, new tea gardens are constantly being planted in this area. Gongcha has a history of more than 3,000 years since the early years of the Western Zhou Dynasty, and more than 1,700 years since the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty. It has been a feudal system since the Tang Dynasty and continued until the end of the Qing Dynasty. As long as more than 1200 years.Moreover, the quantity of tribute tea is getting bigger and bigger, and the quality requirements are getting higher and higher, so that it is difficult for the majority of tea people to bear. 2.Tribute tea in the Tang Dynasty The Tang Dynasty stipulated that all local states and counties must contribute native products to the royal family every year.Zhejiang, Lingnan, Fujian, Sichuan and other places mainly focus on tea tribute.At the beginning, it was stipulated that the time for tribute tea was generally in winter, because tea is generally produced in spring, and spring tea is delicious, and later it was changed to spring as the time for tribute tea.In the Tang Dynasty, Huzhou Guzhu purple bamboo shoots and Changzhou Yangxian tea were used as tribute teas in the Suzong and Daizong dynasties.In the spring of 784, the first year of Dezong Xingyuan, when Yuan Gao, governor of Huzhou, wrote "Tea Mountain", it had already been changed to spring tribute tea.In fact, due to the different seasons and times of tea production in different regions, it is generally after the first batch of new tea is produced in each region every year that the new tribute time is used. From 756 to 762 during the reign of Emperor Suzong of Tang Dynasty, Changzhou Yixing Yangxian tea, that is, Jiangsu Yixing tea, was listed as a treasure of tribute tea.In this place alone, more than 20,000 tons of tribute tea are distributed every year.In order to ensure the source of Yangxian tea, the imperial court specially sent tea history eunuchs to Tanggong Mountain and Guzhu Tea Mountain to set up "tea houses" and "tribute tea houses" in charge of picking, tasting and offering tribute tea. Every year just after the spring equinox, when the tea buds are just like the tongues of sparrows, young girls from the folk are invited to enter the tea garden in the early morning and pick the tender buds full of Didi Yulu with the tip of their tongues.Made immediately after harvest.Immediately after the tribute tea was made, the special personnel of the Mingqian Tea School rode horses and sent them to Chang'an day and night for the "Qingming Banquet" held by the imperial court. Yangxian tea was famous all over the world as early as the Han Dynasty.After being listed as a tribute tea in the Tang Dynasty, it enjoyed a high reputation.Lu Yu, a tea sage, tasted Yangxian tea and praised it as "the most aromatic product in the world".There is also a poem that goes: "The emperor has not tasted Yangxian tea, and all the herbs dare not sprout first." When the Tang Dynasty collected tribute tea for the emperors to worship ancestors, local officials had to choose auspicious days, bathe and worship, climb mountains in court clothes, and hold a grand garden opening ceremony before picking tributes.For example, Li Jifu’s "Yuanhe County Maps" written in 813, the eighth year of Emperor Xianzong of Tang Dynasty, recorded the scene of picking and making "Mengding tea" which is now called "Mengding yellow buds": Mengshan is ten miles south of the county, and today every year Gongcha is the best in Shu.Every year before the Ching Ming Festival, the magistrate of Mingshan County chooses an auspicious day, bathes and worships, and climbs the mountain in court clothes. The monks from the temple on the mountain are invited to preside over the opening ceremony of the garden. For the number of days, tea is fried and made into two silver bottles, and sent to Kyoto as a tribute for the emperor to worship ancestors; "Tea leaves are kneaded into tea balls called "Gezicha", stored in eighteen silver bottles, and accompanied by tribute to Beijing, called "accompanied tea".This kind of etiquette continued from the Tang Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty. There are many poetic works of the Tang Dynasty depicting the scene of picking and processing tribute tea, such as Bai Juyi, Du Mu, Li Ying, Lu Tong, Yuan Gao, etc. The heavy burden of the book is vividly depicted and profoundly exposed from different aspects.Because some poets were local governors who were ordered to cultivate tea at that time, their works were written from the bottom of their hearts and have precious historical value.For example, Bai Juyi wrote "I Heard Jia Changzhou and Cui Huzhou Chashan Jinghui at Night, Because I Send This Poem" written by Bai Juyi during the tenure of Suzhou governor in the second year of Emperor Jingzong Baoli of Tang Dynasty. There are two prefectures in the middle of the plate, and there is a family of spring together in front of the lamp. Qing'e's hand dance should compete for excellence, and purple bamboo shoots should taste new ones." This poem depicts Guzhu Mountain and Tanggong Mountain on the west bank of Taihu Lake from the side. The scene of picking and processing spring tribute tea.According to records, Guzhu purple bamboo shoots were listed as tributes from the second year of Zong Guangde in Tang Dynasty to 763-764 in the first year of Yongtai, and became two major tribute tea areas adjacent to Tanggong Mountain. It belongs to Huzhou and Changzhou respectively.Every year between Qingming Festival and Guyu, when the local governors of Huzhou and Changzhou were ordered to go to the mountain to cultivate tea, they would also bring their family members, attendants, musicians, kabuki and other people to the tea mountain to hold a grand "tea mountain environment". meeting".At the same time, local governors and eunuchs from neighboring counties and counties should be invited as guests to come to the tea mountain to add to the fun.At the "Jinghui", people drink tea and fight tea, drink wine and compose poems, sing and dance, and drums and music are loud, so that Bai Juyi, the governor of Suzhou, who is ill in the east of Taihu Lake, seems to have smelled the melodious music at the tea mountain feast. ll.It's a pity that I couldn't be invited to the meeting because I was unwell. When Du Mu was ordered to repair tea in the fourth year of Tang Xuanzong's university in 850, he wrote a poem "Tea Mountain". It's good that the whole family is here, and it's also for the imperial edict. "These four poems show that they not only bring a large number of people, kabuki and musicians, but also bring their wives, sons and daughters to climb mountains for fun. But who knows how much hardship the tea people have to pay for picking and making tribute tea behind the singing and dancing feast What about blood and sweat? Lu Tong, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, said in his famous poem "Xie Meng Advises Sending New Tea" that his friend Meng Jian was ordered to repair tea during his tenure as governor of Changzhou. Yangxian tribute tea, after Lu Tong vividly wrote about tasting the "seven bowls" in his poem, he wrote in a spicy style: "Yuchuanzi wants to go home by taking advantage of this breeze. The group of immortals on the mountain went down to the earth, their status was high and the wind and rain were separated, and Ann learned that the lives of millions of people fell on the cliffs and suffered hardships.From admonishment to ask the common people, do they have to rest in the end? These verses are right on the current disadvantages of tribute tea in the Tang Dynasty, expressing the poet's deep sympathy for the vast number of tea workers who are "hanging on the cliff and suffering hard work", and for the Tang royal family and high-ranking officials who only know the delicious tribute tea but do not understand the sufferings of the people. Made a bitter allegory. Li Ying, who was then the governor of Huzhou, wrote in "Tea Mountain Tribute Song": "When the tea is offered in the spring breeze and in March, all the red flags are chased to the mountains. The red doors open in the middle of roasting, and the baskets and boxes gradually see new tea. The smoke touches the dew and keeps picking, and the red seals of the officials keep posting reminders. The tea is made to worship the emperor. , Thousands of people are fighting to destroy the spring mountain. The sound of the whip on the post rides and the current, who will see the husband in the middle of the night? In ten days, the king will travel four thousand times, and the Qingming feast will be there." Li Ying's "Tea Mountain Tribute Song" is complete For more details on the poems and annotations, please refer to Chapter 7 of this book "Modern and Ancient Tea Poems" 20 "Two Poems of Li Ying in Tang Dynasty".The poet expresses deep sympathy for the vast number of tea people who have devoted their hard work and blood and sweat to the collection and production of tribute tea; The hardships and poverty of the people and lighten their burdens.The poet also wrote about an honest governor of Huzhou who sympathized with the sufferings of the people in a strong style.No matter whether it is fine wine, singing and dancing, golden silk and jade dishes, or the rich and fragrant precious tea, none of them can arouse his emotions. As soon as the tribute is baked, he is completely immersed in the worries of the people. Among the poets of the Tang Dynasty, the one who dared to criticize the tribute tea system of the Tang royal family with righteous words was none other than Yuan Gao, governor of Huzhou.After he was ordered to go to Guzhu Tea Mountain to repair tea, he wrote a famous poem "Tea Mountain". Aiming at the drawbacks of the Daxing tribute tea system in the Tang Dynasty, he spoke generously and spoke out;For example, the poem goes: "Yu's tribute is popular with distant customs, and his plans are for the people. The queen lost his roots, the officials dared not report, and there were also treacherous and flatterers, because of this, they wanted to be extended. They moved thousands of gold and made people impoverished every day. There are no days and nights to choose, and the sound of pounding morning and night. How dry are the workers, looking down and hurting the gods. The emperor still patrols hunting, and there are many roads in the eastern suburbs. Zhou circles around the world, and the dedication is more difficult. In the vast sea, how can Dan's anger stretch out? ?” Yuan Gao was the first governor of Huzhou who dared to criticize tribute tea outspokenly during the more than 160 years after the founding of the Tang Dynasty.And in the era when "the emperor didn't taste Yangxian tea, and all kinds of herbs didn't dare to sprout first", and the tribute tea system was regarded as a matter of course and a golden rule, it showed that Yuan Shishi dared to write "Tea Mountain" with extraordinary grace and praise.And when the tribute tea was repaired, a stone monument was erected on Guzhu Tea Mountain.It was March 10th in the spring of 784, the first year of Emperor Dezong of Tang Dynasty. 3.Tribute tea in the Song Dynasty Tribute tea in the Song Dynasty was heavily taxed, which caused a heavy burden on the tea people.According to historical records, only in 963, the first year of Taizu Qiande, Chen Hong of Quanzhou paid 10,000 catties of tea as tribute.The Jingnan Mansion sent tribute pieces and loose tea more than 8,700 catties.The tribute tea in the Tang Dynasty favored Yixing Yangxian tea in Yixing, Jiangsu, Guzhu Zisun tea in Huzhou, and Mengding tea in Sichuan, while in the Song Dynasty Jian'an was the top grade of tribute tea. "Beiyuan Bielu" written by Zhao Ruli of Song Dynasty describes the establishment of imperial tea gardens in the Northern Garden of Fenghuang Mountain, Jian'an County, Jian'an County, Fujian Province during the Song Dynasty from Taizong Taiping Xingguo 976-984 to Renzong Qingli Huangyou 1045-1053. Craftsmanship, tribute tea items, quantity, etc. have all been recorded in detail, leaving precious information for people today to understand and study the situation of tribute tea in this period of the Song Dynasty.This article will give a brief introduction to the relevant parts. Beiyuan Imperial Tea Garden: Thirty miles east of Jian’an, Beiyuan at the foot of Fenghuang Mountain and its surrounding areas are listed as Imperial Tea Garden.There are: Jiuke, Shierlong, Maike, Rangyuan, Youlongke, Xiaokuzhu, Kuzhuli, Fenghuangshan, Daiyuan, Guanping, Monk’s Garden, Luohanshan, etc., a total of forty-six, with a radius of 30 Dory.The inner garden is above Guanping, and the outer garden is below Guankeng.Among them, "Nine Caves, Twelve Longs, Xiaokuzhu, Zhangkeng, and Xiji are the first of the Forbidden Gardens."The tea produced in this area is all top grade.In the Taiping Xingguo period, it was initially designated as imperial bakery.Every year, rare dragon and phoenix cakes are baked to present to the court.During the reign of Renzong Qingli, the envoy in charge of tea affairs paid more attention to tribute tea, with more and more items and more exquisite craftsmanship.The tea produced in Beiyuan is "the only one in the world, and it is not available in the world." Picking of tribute tea: Tea gardens are opened before the Waking of Insects.The requirements for picking tea in ancient times are different from today’s. Now it is required not to pick tea with dew, but in Song Dynasty, tribute tea must be picked in the early morning. Make the richness of the tea internally exhausted, and wash it with water before pressing the fingers to make tea, so that it will not be bright." "Therefore, every day, five watch drums are used to gather husbands in Fenghuang Mountain. There is a drum-playing pavilion on the mountain. The supervisor and official will give a card to enter the mountain. In the morning, the gong will be played again to gather them together, lest they will be greedy for too much. and also." Those who enter the garden to pick tea are required to select local people who are familiar with tea.Tea-picking requires that "the armor should be used instead of the finger, and the finger will be more warm; the armor will break quickly, but not soft." Song Huizong's "Grand View Tea Theory" said: Tea picking "stop when you see the sun at dawn, and use claws to pick tea." If the buds are broken, if they are not soft with fat, they will be stained with sweat and sweat, and the tea will not be fresh and clean. Therefore, tea workers often use fresh water to follow themselves, and when they get buds, they throw them into various waters."Emperor Huizong's requirements were even higher and stricter, requiring each tea picker to bring fresh water with him, and to put every piece of tea bud into the water at any time to keep it fresh and clean. Roasting of tribute tea: Roasting tribute tea is divided into multiple processes: picking tea, steaming tea, squeezing tea, grinding tea, making tea, and aging tea.When picking tea, tea craftsmen should carefully remove purple buds, baihe and black belts that affect the taste and color of the tea.Then separate water buds, small buds and middle buds from it.Ruchu made Longtuan Shengxuebai tea, first steamed its buds, put them in a water basin, and picked out the elite, which is only as small as a needle, so called water buds, which are the most refined buds.What consumes the most man-hours is the development of rare tribute tea.The steamed tea buds are placed in a basin, divided into groups and ground with water. According to different items, the number of times of water is fixed.For example, the development of "Shengxue Baicha" is sixteen waters; picking buds is six waters; Xiaolongfeng is four waters;Those who are above twelve waters can only grind one ball a day; those who are below six waters can study three to seven balls a day.It is required that every water should be "dried until the tea is cooked. If the water is not dry, it will not be cooked. If the tea is not cooked, the first surface will be uneven, and it will sink easily in the frying test. Therefore, the researcher is more expensive than the strong and powerful one." And the tea used The water is taken from Fenghuang Spring, also known as Longbai Spring, also known as Yuquan. The spring water is clear and sweet, and it is inexhaustible day and night. During the roasting process of tribute tea, the requirements are also extremely strict.According to different items, the tea pastes that have been ground and made into different grades are placed in "cups" of different thicknesses and specifications, and baked at an appropriate fire temperature. Chen Jiru in the Ming Dynasty mentioned the French method of baking cages in the volume "Tea Dong Bu" Shi said: "Bamboo is roasted and made of tea, wrapped with yam leaves, and covered to keep fire away.There is tolerance between them.Put it under the fire, remove the tea feet, and keep it warm at room temperature, so it also raises the color and fragrance of tea. "The length of baking time of Beiyuan tribute tea is determined according to different items. Some go through six to eight fires, and the longest ones have ten to fifteen fires. That is to say, the longest roasting time Tribute tea takes fifteen days and nights. The heat is enough, and after the baking, the soup is used for the first color press: the tribute tea dragon balls and phoenix cakes made in the Song Dynasty are all painted with color oil on the tea surface [reading the sound], which is called "the first color".After the first color, put it in a secret room and fan it, the color will be naturally bright.So far, the exquisite tribute tea production process has been completed. Various types of tribute tea items and their quantity: According to the "Beiyuan Bielu", the tea in Beiyuan alone is divided into three grades and twelve categories, totaling more than 48,000 pieces per year. The first type is made of bamboo and wood, and holds coarse-colored tea, and its volume is relatively large; the second type is made of metal tin, copper, and silver, and holds ultra-fine tribute tea.Due to the different sizes of the kui, it is difficult to make an accurate calculation of the weight of each kui.The items and quantities of tribute teas of various sizes and sizes are now extracted from several categories, which can be seen as follows: The first outline of fine color: Longbai tributes new water buds, twelve waters, ten places of fire, 30 gongs for Zhenggong, and 20 gongs for Chuangtian. The third principle of fine color: Long Tuansheng Xueshuiya, 16 waters, 12 places of fire, 30 pieces of Zhenggong; 60 pieces of Chonggong; white tea water buds, 16 waters, 7 places of fire, 30 pieces of Zhenggong, 15 pieces of added money Criticism in the original text: One theory is that it is 50 cues and 80 cues; Yuyuan Yuya Xiaoya, 12 waters, Basuhuo, Zhenggong 100 pieces; Wanshou Longya Xiaoya 12 waters, Basuhuo , Zhenggong one hundred pieces. The fifth principle of fine color: Taiping Jiarui Xiaoya, Twelve Waters, Jiusuhuo, Zhenggong 300 pieces; Longyuan Primrose Xiaoya, Twelve Waters, Jiusuhuo, Zhenggong 600 pieces, Chuangtian 60 pieces; Nanshan Yingrui Small buds, twelve waters, fifteen nights of fire, sixty gongs for Zhenggong, and sixty kuangs for Chuangtian. The first outline of coarse color: Zhenggong: 1,200 pieces of small dragons that do not enter the brain, six waters, and sixteen fires; seven hundred pieces of small dragons that do not enter the brain, four waters, and fifteen fires; add one thousand and two small dragons that do not enter the brain. 100 tablets; 700 tablets of Xiaolong into the brain; 840 tablets of Xiaolong tea attached to Jianning Mansion. The third outline of coarse color: Zhenggong: 640 pieces of the top-grade pick bud small dragon without entering the brain; 672 pieces of the small phoenix into the brain; 1,800 pieces of the big dragon into the brain; There are 1,200 pieces of small dragons selected for the top grade in the brain; 700 pieces of small dragons in the brain; 400 pieces of Dalong tea attached to Jianningfu; and 400 pieces of Dafeng tea. The super masterpiece of Song Dynasty tribute tea: According to the "Beiyuan Bielu", Zhou Mi recorded that in the Southern Song Dynasty Xiaozong Qiandao, Chunxi 1165-1189, in the first ten days of mid-spring, Fujian Caosi entered the first Gang Beiyuan to test new ones, small square inches, and only a hundred imperial ones.The innermost layer is protected with soft yellow silk; the second layer is wrapped with soft cattail grass; the third layer is wrapped with double-layer yellow silk, and the seal is stamped with the vermilion mark of Cao Si; then it is put into a small red lacquer box and added There are small gold-plated locks; the outermost layer is protected by an exquisite small bamboo cage woven with fine bamboo.There are as many as six layers of packaging for tribute tea, which can be described as exquisite.Inside is the "Longbaixing New Water Bud" made by Que Tong Bing Ya, a small box of one inch, which can only be used for a few cups of precious tea, and its value is as high as 400,000 yuan.This super treasure is exclusively for the royal family.Occasionally, one or two rewards are given to favored ministers, and the recipients regard them as treasures. "Beiyuan Bielu" was written in Mengxia, Bingwu, Chunxi, Emperor Xiaozong, that is, April 1186, the thirteenth year of Chunxi.At that time, the author was in charge of the Accounting Department of the Fujian Transshipment Department. Because he was in charge of tea affairs, he had the opportunity to study the historical facts of Beiyuan tribute tea in the Song Dynasty for more than 70 years from the Taiping Xingguo period of the Northern Song Dynasty to the Chunxi period of the Southern Song Dynasty. Song Gaozong sympathized with the people's feelings and reduced tribute tea: Some scholars who study the history of the Song Dynasty believe that although there were many reasons for the subjugation of the Song Dynasty, heavy taxes and feasts were the important reasons. Among them, the prevalence of tea addiction was also a major drawback of the Song Dynasty government.When half of the country fell, the Southern Song regime favored Lin'an, which is now Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province. They still enjoyed the "prosperity" by singing and dancing.For example, someone wrote a poem satirically on the wall of the hotel in Hangzhou during the Shaoxing and Chunxi years of the Southern Song Dynasty from 1131 to 1189: Outside the mountains, the green hills and the buildings outside the buildings, when will the West Lake dance stop? The warm wind blows the tourists drunk, turning Hangzhou into Bianzhou. But Zhao Gou, the first emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty, always had a little compassion for the people.According to the 47th record of Shihuo in "Supplement to the Compiled Draft of Song Hui Yao", on June 18, 1135, the fifth year of Shaoxing Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty, he issued an edict: "Fujian Road Transit Department and Jianzhou: Every year, the big dragon group and phoenix cake are merged into Beijing.挺茶，并自来年为始减半起发。先是上言：福建岁有工供龙凤团茶数目甚多，今赐赉既少，无所用之，枉费民力，故有是诏。” 4.元代的贡茶国有兴亡之运，而贡茶产地亦有盛衰之时。宋代推崇建安之御焙贡茶，而到了元代，宫廷贡茶的主要产地又转移到福建的岩茶产地——武夷山区。 元代官府为督办贡茶，于大德六年１３０２在福建崇安县城南１５公里的武夷山四曲建立“御茶园”，又称“焙局”。 创建之初，建有仁风门、拜发殿、神清堂及思敬、焙芳、宜菽、燕宾、浮光等诸亭，附近还设有更衣台等建筑。 元代宫廷，为什么又选择这里作为贡茶的主要生产基地呢？这里是中国武夷岩茶的着名产地。武夷山区平均海拔６５０米，九曲溪水迂回其间，有红色砂岩风化的土壤，土质疏松，腐殖质含量高，酸度适宜，雨量充沛，山间云雾迷漫，气候温和，冬暖夏凉，岩泉终年滴流不绝。Tea trees grow in valleys and valleys. Due to heavy fog, short sunshine, and a lot of diffused light, the leaves of tea trees are fresh and tender, and contain more chlorophyll.这使武夷岩茶独得天地之厚爱，形成了它独有的特色和风韵。这武夷岩茶，早在宋代就闻名于世了。苏轼在咏茶诗里就有：“武夷溪边粟粒芽，前丁后蔡相宠佳。”是说宋代的两位福建路转运使丁谓、蔡襄早就对武夷岩茶赞许宠爱有加了。所以元代宫廷放弃了自宗代起已开发三百多年的建安北苑御焙，而把皇室的御茶园建在武夷山四曲卧龙潭溪水南岸。不惜茶民血汗和工本，大力开发武夷岩茶，作为宫廷贡茶的主要来源之一。 元代在建立御茶园之初，贡茶从每岁进献数十斤，逐渐增至数百斤，而要求数量越来越大，以至高达每岁焙制数千饼龙团茶。明朝建立后，继续以此为御茶园，焙制贡茶，至明嘉靖三十六年１５５７，在当地茶民再也不堪承受劳役之苦，纷纷四散逃亡的情况下，这个历经元、明两代二百五十余年的“御茶园”终于罢贡废园了。现仅有呼来泉又名通井等遗址，似在向游人陈诉往昔茶民的无言凄楚。 5.明代的贡茶明太祖１３６８—１３９８年间，全国贡茶额的分配是： 南直隶五百斤；浙江五百五十二斤；江西四百零五斤；湖广二百斤；福建二千三百五十斤。 其中福建所产贡茶不仅数量最大，而且质量也越来越好。 如探春、先春、次春、紫简及荐新等名茶，都被视为珍品。明太祖还规定，生产贡茶的茶户，可以免除其他课役。 明代的贡茶是，立国之初纳贡地区范围较小，数量亦较少；随着时间的推移，贡茶地区范围不断扩大，数额亦屡增不已。如洪武１３６８—１３９８年间，建宁贡茶共一千六百余斤，至隆庆１５６７—１５７２时增至二千三百多斤；宜兴贡茶原一百斤，宣德１４２６—１４３５增至二千九百斤。茶民除贡额外，还要献给镇守的宦官大数额的上品茶。如安徽的六安茶，称为“天下第一夺”，镇守太监对茶民常常征以高出定额数倍的贡茶。 到了明朝中后期，朝廷的贡役之重，已使民众苦不堪言了。万历年间１５７３—１６２０，有一位尚能体察民情的地方官吏——佥事协理州府政务、掌管文牍韩邦奇写过一首《茶歌》揭露官府残酷勒索贡物的情形，《茶歌》云： 富阳江之鱼，富阳山之茶；鱼肥奇我子，茶香破我家。采茶妇，捕鱼夫，官府拷掠无完肤。昊天何不仁？此地亦何辜！鱼何不生别县？茶何不生别都？富阳山，何日摧？富阳江，何日枯？山摧茶亦死，江枯鱼乃无。Alas!山难摧，江难枯，我民不可苏。 足见明朝贡茶为害之甚已达到民不聊生的程度。 6.清代的贡茶要了解清代的贡茶，还得先从清宫的茗饮之风说起。由于清代历朝皇帝特别是乾隆所好，清代宫廷饮茶是颇为盛行的。清廷内务府设有御茶房，由一名管理事务大臣主管，设尚茶正、尚茶副各一名，尚茶十一名，御茶房原址在乾清宫东庑，内臣直庐三楹，由清圣祖康熙皇帝御笔题匾额。除御茶房之外，还设有皇后茶房、寿康宫皇太后茶房。皇子、皇孙娶福晋后，亦有茶房。各茶房都设专人管理日常茗饮事宜。 从御茶房及至皇后、皇妃茶房，每日供茶份例与所用金银、瓷器具皆有定例。如御茶房日供柴一千七百斤，备御用茶份例每日为十四斤，分七十四包按：古代一斤为十六两，每包约三两多。仅此常例一年御用茶即达五千多斤。 清宫的饮茶习俗，是以调饮饮奶茶与清饮并用。清初，按旗俗以饮奶茶为主，清朝后期，逐渐改为以清饮为主。 据清宫钦定总管内务府则例规定，从皇上至皇子，每人每日供应调制奶茶包括作点心等食用均有奶牛头数份例：皇上每日乳牛一百头，皇太后二十四头，皇后二十五头，皇贵妃六头，贵妃四头，妃三头，嫔二头，阿哥皇子、皇孙娶福晋后八头。每日供应的牛乳，按量交上茶房与茶膳房。 清宫除常例用御茶之外，朝廷举行大型茶宴与每岁新正举行的茶宴，在康熙后期与乾隆年间曾极盛一时，如康熙五十年１７１１，时逢康熙皇帝六十寿辰大庆，为招待进京祝寿的老臣，康熙皇帝在畅春园按：其故址在南海淀大河庄之北，圆明园之南，颐和园昆明湖东堤之东。康熙时期就明代李伟旧园址改建，为康熙、乾隆皇帝治事、游憩之所举行“千叟宴”。出席者有六十岁以上退休老臣、官员、庶士多达一千八百人。“千叟宴”的一项重要程序，是首开茶宴。在宴会之后，皇帝还要向一部分老臣、王公、显贵赐御茶及所用过的茶具。康熙六十年１７２１，圣祖玄烨康熙帝又举行了第二次有一千余人出席的“千叟宴”。清朝另两次大型“千叟宴”，分别于乾隆五十年１７８５与乾隆六十年１７９５年，是年为乾隆执政最后一年；次年嘉庆即位，乾隆为太上皇举行，其规模之大，参加人数之多，远远超出了康熙举行的两次“千叟宴”分别有三千多人与五千多人出席。“千叟宴”的进餐程序，仍然是首开茶宴。宴会后，按常例有一部分官员及出席者会得到皇帝赏赐御茶、茶具等殊荣。 乾隆在位１７３６—１７９５的六十年间，清代正处于康乾盛世，加之乾隆皇帝酷好饮茶，又擅作诗，每年正月初二至初十便选择吉日在重华宫［按：重华宫在北京故宫西路，雍正五年１７２７清高宗弘历乾隆帝大婚时赐居于此，乾隆登极后升为宫］举行茶宴，由乾隆钦自主持，其主要内容： 一是由皇帝命题定韵，由出席者一般为十八人赋诗联句每人四句；二是饮茶；三是诗品优胜者，可以得到御茶及珍物的赏赐。清宫的这种品茗与诗会相结合的茶宴活动，其规模虽然较小，但在乾隆年间持续了半个世纪之久，除少数年份之外，几乎每逢新正都是要举行的，称为重华宫茶宴联句，传为清宫韵事。 清代历朝皇室所消耗的贡茶数量是相当惊人的。清初查慎行１６５０—１７２７，浙江宁海人，康熙四十二年进士在任翰林院编修官时在《海记》中对康熙年间的各地贡茶列有条目——江苏、安徽、浙江、江西、湖北、湖南、福建等省的七十多个府县，每年向宫廷所进的贡茶即达一万三千九百多斤详见附录五。在清代的贡茶中，有一部分是由皇帝亲自选定的。Such as: 洞庭碧螺春茶，由于此茶独具特殊的天然香气，古时当地人俗称其为“吓杀人香”。清圣祖玄烨于康熙三十八年１６９９第三次南巡时到太湖，巡抚宋荦，从当地制茶高手朱正元处购得精品“吓杀人香”向康熙进贡。康熙以其名不雅驯，题之曰“碧螺春”。自此后，碧螺春即成为清代皇帝御赐茶名的珍品贡茶了。 西湖龙井成为清廷贡茶，是曾受到高宗弘历御封的。乾隆下江南巡幸杭州时，曾在龙井泉赋诗、作联语，到狮子峰湖公庙饮茶，并将庙前的十八颗茶树封为御茶，从此，西湖龙井茶亦即成为专供皇家享用的贡品了。 君山毛尖，产于湖南省岳阳市洞庭湖君山岛，于乾隆四十六年１７８１即被选为清宫贡品。贵定云雾茶，从清代开始生产即作为贡茶进献清宫。至今贵州省贵定县云雾区仰望乡苗寨仍保存着乾隆年间建立的“贡茶碑”，碑中有关于云雾茶作“贡茶”和“敬茶”的记载。在乾隆年间被列为贡茶的，还有如今仍产于福建省宁德市西天山的芽茶，产于安徽省宣州市敬亭山的敬亭绿雪等茶。 清代阮福着《普洱茶记》云：“普洱茶名重天下，味最酽。 京师尤重云”，“于二月间采蕊极细而谓之毛尖以作贡。贡后方许民间贩茶”。在清代被列为贡茶的还有今仍产于四川省名山县蒙顶山区的蒙顶甘露，从唐时起作为贡茶，直至清末才罢贡，在历史上连续作为历代宫廷贡茶，竟长达一千余年。 今仍产于浙江省金华市双龙洞顶鹿田村附近的金华举岩是已历千载的今古名茶，在清道光年间１８２１—１８５０，仍保持芽茶与叶茶两个品种为贡茶。在清光绪三十年１９０４，清朝临近覆灭之时，还将产于江西省修水县的宁红珍品太子茶列为贡茶。 7.高雅的宋代贡茶茶名集萃龙焙贡新水芽、龙焙试新水芽、白茶水芽、御园玉芽、万寿龙芽、上林第一小芽、乙夜清供小芽、承平雅玩小芽、龙凤英华小芽、雪英小芽、玉除清赏小芽、启沃承恩小芽、云叶小芽、蜀葵小芽、金钱小芽、玉叶小芽、寸金小芽、龙团胜雪、无比寿芽、万寿银芽、宜年宝玉小芽、玉清庆云小芽、无疆寿龙小芽、玉叶长春小芽、瑞云翔龙小芽、长寿玉圭小芽、兴国岩銙中芽、香口焙銙中芽、上品拣芽、新收拣芽、太平嘉瑞小芽、兴国岩拣芽中芽、兴国岩小龙中芽、兴国岩小凤中芽。 8.曾被列入贡茶的当今名茶当今的中国名茶和地方名茶中，有许多曾被历代皇室列入贡茶，计有不完全： 浙江：西湖龙井、淳安鸠坑茶、顾渚紫笋、天目山青顶、雁荡毛峰、金华举岩、日铸雪芽；安徽：六安瓜片、敬亭绿雪、涌溪火青、霍山黄芽；福建：白茶、天山清水绿、武夷大红袍、安溪虎丘铁观音、武夷肉桂；湖南：君山毛尖、毗庐洞云雾茶、官庄毛尖、南岳云雾、大庸毛尖、古丈毛尖；四川：蒙顶黄芽、巴岳绿茶；贵州：贵定云雾茶、都匀毛关、湄江翠片；江西：宁红、婺源绿茶、庐山云雾茶古时名为闻林茶；江苏：碧螺春、花果山云雾茶、宜兴阳羡茶；陕西：紫阳毛尖；河南：信阳毛尖；云南：普洱茶；台湾省：文山包种茶。 9.历史上时间最长和最短的贡茶今陕西省紫阳县生产的紫阳毛尖，在东汉时即被列为贡茶，当时茶名为“紫邑宦镇毛尖”。姑且从东汉末献帝１９０—２２０年间算起，迄今已有一千七百多年的历史了。这可称为贡茶时间最早之最。浙江湖州顾渚紫笋，从唐广德年间７６３—７６４即被列入贡品，历经唐、宋、元、明四个朝代，直到洪武八年１３７５罢贡，历时长达六百多年，其贡奉历史之长，居全国贡茶之首。而江西宁红茶是历史最短的贡茶。宁红的珍品太子茶，于清末光绪三十年１９０４被列入贡茶，至清朝覆灭仅有七年。 上述贡茶，这一封建制度的产物，在中国社会历经沧桑，长达几千年，终于随着最后一个封建王朝——清廷的覆灭而终止了。毫无疑问，历代贡茶的兴起与衰败的史实，从一个非常重要的侧面反映出了中国茶叶生产的一部兴衰史。这里只将新中国成立前后我国茶叶生产的今昔对比作一简要介绍：中国茶叶生产历经沧桑，但直到新中国成立，江山易主，广大茶农才真正当了国家和茶园的主人，给中国茶叶生产带来了勃勃生机。特别是改革开放的春风，吹拂着祖国的山川大地，令千山茶园碧翠，万壑茶岭飘香，茶叶生产战线上出现了空前的繁荣。中国茶叶年产量，从１９４９年建国前夕只有奄奄一息的３万公吨左右，到１９９３年全国不含台湾省茶叶产量已达到６０万公吨据《中国农业年鉴》１９９４年卷统计相当于１９４９年茶叶年产量的２０倍！我们坚信我国广大茶工、茶叶科研工作者，将把品种更多、质量更好的中国名茶，献给国人，献给世界。 黎庶自有消渴甚茶佛一味不解缘中国人工栽培茶树，种植茶园，促进茶叶生产发展的历史进程，以及通过佛教界交往的渠道，向海外传播中国的饮茶风尚和茶叶的生产知识，佛教僧侣包括道教曾做出过特殊的贡献。 据载，西汉哀帝元寿元年公元前２年，佛教传入中国内地。魏、晋、南北朝时期得到发展，到了隋、唐达到鼎盛时期，在许多名山胜地大规模地兴建梵宫寺院，众僧云集。由于一些寺院的创始禅师、高僧亲自在寺院附近种茶、育园，或是提倡、动员僧众开山垦地，种植茶树、茶园，此外，在许多佛教胜地，如浙江普陀山、安徽九华山、四川峨嵋山以及江西庐山、杭州灵隐天竺山、四川雅安蒙山等名山胜境的庙宇附近，最早出现了人工培栽的茶树和茶园。 四川雅安县境内的蒙山，相传在西汉前２０６—前２４年间，甘露寺祖师吴理真在蒙山上清峰上亲手种植茶树七株，后被人们称之为“仙茶树”。这是四川蒙山人工栽培茶树的开端，也是我国由僧侣种植茶树开创先河的例证。从此，四川蒙山开始了生产茶叶的历史，迄今已有一千九百年以上的历史了。现在四川的优质名茶“蒙顶黄芽”和“蒙顶甘露”均产自蒙顶山区。 普陀山佛茶，又称普陀山云雾茶，是我国绿茶古品之一。 最初是由我国四大佛教圣地之一的普陀山寺院栽培制作，从而得佛茶之名。普陀山种茶，约始于唐代，已有一千多年的历史了。当时佛教在我国正处于兴盛时期，普陀山的寺院庵堂和茅蓬在历史上曾一度达二百多处，有僧尼二千余人。 天台山国清寺，是我国天台宗的发祥地。于隋开皇十八年５９８由晋王杨广承智者遗愿建立的。也是我国由僧侣、道士种茶最早的地区之一。天台山的产茶始于汉代。据记载，东汉末年道士葛玄①，已在天台山的最高峰华顶植茶。在唐代国清寺最兴盛的时期，梵宫殿宇已达数百间之多，曾集聚僧侣数千人之众。国清寺的长老派僧侣在华顶山上建造了许多茅蓬素有华顶七十二座茅蓬之称，一说为六十五座，让僧侣在此居住、种茶。僧人常年在一块块开出的茶园中劳作，为天台山华顶名茶的栽培及后来的发展作出了可贵的贡献。 天台山国清寺，同时还是我国向海外传播茶叶栽培种植技术和民族茶文化的圣地之一。日本高僧最澄②、海空于唐德宗贞元二十年８０４渡海来天台山国清寺学佛，在回国时带去中国茶籽，种植于日本近江滋贺县阪本村国治山麓，至今已有一千一百余年的历史了。 据载，在东汉明帝５８—７５年间，庐山已成为中国佛教的中心之一。有三大名寺西林、东林、大林、五大丛林海会、秀峰、万彬、栖贤、归宗，唐代极盛。据《庐山志》记载：“当时梵宫寺院多至三百余座，僧侣云集。攀危岩，冒飞泉，竟采野茶以充饥渴。各寺亦有于白云深处劈岩削谷，栽种茶树者，焙制茶叶名云雾茶。”可见当年庐山广大僧侣攀悬崖，登峭壁，穿溪水，冒飞泉，削谷垦地种茶的情景是何等壮观艰难，真可谓是天外殿宇山外寺，云边茶园泉边僧啊，如今闻名遐迩，厚重鲜爽甘醇的庐山云雾茶，无疑亦蕴含着当年僧侣们的宝贵贡献。 西湖龙井，饮誉世界，虎跑泉水龙井茶，又称之为杭州双绝。这名茶名泉，皆与佛门僧侣有渊源。陆羽在《茶经·八之出》有杭州天竺、灵隐二寺产茶的记载。当时所产之茶名曰：白云茶、香林茶、宝林茶。北宋苏轼于哲宗元佑１０８９—１０９０年间，第二次来杭州当地方官知州期间，对西湖的产茶历史曾作过考证。他认为西湖早期人工栽培的茶树是在灵隐寺、下天竺、射旭洞又名金光洞、香林洞一带，是南朝宋诗人谢灵运３８５—４３３在下天竺寺院翻译佛经时，从天台山带来的茶籽。这说明在灵隐、天竺最早栽培茶的人亦是佛门僧侣或是热衷于佛教事业的人。 据《续余杭县志》记载，径山寺僧采谷雨茗，用小缶贮之以馈人。开山祖钦师，曾植茶树数株，采以供佛，逾年漫延山谷，其味芳香特异，即今之径山茶是也。浙江余杭县径山产茶历史悠久，始栽于唐，闻名于宋。南宋时