Chapter 3 Drinking tea-2

Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, located in the northwest border, is a multi-ethnic area inhabited mainly by Uyghurs.The Uighur population accounts for about two-thirds of the region.In addition, there are Han, Kazakh, Mongolian, Hui, Kirgiz and other ethnic groups. The Uighurs and other fraternal ethnic groups living here love to drink tea all their lives. Tea has become a necessity in the life of the local people, and they regard it as important as eating.Therefore, for a long time, there has been a popular saying in the local area, which is called "it is better to live without rice than tea".The experience of the local residents is: "Have tea for three meals a day, refresh your mind and heart, and work vigorously; without tea for three days, you are tired and too lazy to get up." Therefore, they regard tea as "fairy tea" and even drink it. The tea dregs are also reluctant to throw away.It is believed that feeding horses and donkeys with tea dregs can make horses and donkeys look energetic and their coats shiny and shiny.

Although the Uighurs live in the same area concentratedly and drink Fuzhuan brick tea, but because the Tianshan Mountains lie across the central part of Xinjiang, the climate in the north and south of the Tianshan Mountains in the area is different. They make a living by grazing; although southern Xinjiang is in the Taklimakan Desert, the alluvial plains outside the desert are oases with lush water and grass and rich agricultural products, and most people live on agriculture.Due to differences in climate and environment, production content, food structure, and lifestyle, the tea drinking requirements, tea making methods, and tea drinking habits of the same nation are very different.Generally speaking, northern Xinjiang mainly drinks milk tea with milk, and southern Xinjiang mainly drinks fragrant tea with spices, but regardless of milk tea and fragrant tea, Fuzhuan tea is used.

For herdsmen, milk tea in northern Xinjiang is almost a must-have for every household for many years.Usually, an aluminum teapot is hung in the middle of the herdsman’s tent, the bottom of which is pointed at the coal stove that burns all day long, so that the steaming milk tea can be drunk at any time.The method of making milk tea is not complicated. Generally, Fuzhuan brick tea is first broken into small pieces, put a handful into a teapot half full of water, and cook on a coal stove until it boils for 4 to 5 minutes. A bowl of milk or a few milk bumps and an appropriate amount of salt, let it boil for about 5 minutes, and a pot of hot, fragrant, salty milk tea is ready.If you can't drink it all at once, you can add some water, tea leaves, milk and salt and let it cook slowly so that you can drink milk tea at any time.

Herdsmen in northern Xinjiang must drink milk tea three times in the morning, noon and evening, and middle-aged and elderly herdsmen have to add one time each in the morning and afternoon.Some even drink seven or eight times a day. If a guest comes from afar, the host will welcome the guest into the tent and sit around on the ground. The hospitable hostess immediately spreads a clean white cloth on the ground and offers roast lamb and naan (a kind of bread baked with wheat flour) round cake), butter, honey, apples and other treats, and then serve a bowl of milk tea.While talking about friendship, drinking tea and eating, the hostess is always on the sidelines to serve tea and persuade the guests to eat.If the guest has already eaten and drank enough, according to the local custom, when the hostess offers tea, he only needs to separate five fingers with his right hand, and gently cover the tea bowl with 2 Chinese tea scriptures, saying: "Thank you! Please don't add any more. .” At this time, the host understood and stopped adding tea.Drinking milk tea, for first-time drinkers, will feel the taste is strong and astringent, but as long as you live in northern Xinjiang where there are few vegetables and more milk and meat for ten and a half months, you will feel that drinking milk tea is really a kind of taste. Supplement vitamins and nutrients, and an indispensable drink to help relieve greasy food.The saying of the local herdsmen that "you can't live without tea for a day" is completely incomprehensible.

Fragrant tea in southern Xinjiang uses the same tea leaves as boiled milk tea, except that the condiments added at the end are not milk and salt, but fine powder crushed with spices such as pepper and cinnamon.A copper long-necked teapot or an enamel teapot is usually used to make fragrant tea. In order to prevent tea dregs and spices from mixing into the tea field when pouring tea, a mesh filter is often set on the spout. Folks in southern Xinjiang drink fragrant tea, mostly three meals a day, at the same time as breakfast, lunch and dinner.Usually eat naan while drinking fragrant tea.Here, rather than saying that tea is a beverage, it is better to say that tea is a kind of soup.Modern medicine shows that: pepper can whet the appetite, cinnamon can benefit qi, and tea can refresh the mind. In this way, the three complement each other and complement each other, which strengthens the pharmacological effect of tea.No wonder the local villagers regard fragrant tea as "not only a kind of nutritious food, but also a kind of health drink", which is as important as eating.

(Yao Guokun) Tibet is known as the "roof of the world". The terrain here is high, the air is thin, and the climate is arid and cold. Most of the local people believe in Lamaism. staple food. "Its fishy meat food cannot be consumed without tea, and the heat of highland barley cannot be understood without tea."Tea is the main source of nutritional supplements for the local people and has become an indispensable daily food.At present, the annual per capita tea consumption in Tibet is about 15 kilograms, the highest among all provinces and regions in the country. Tibetans drink tea, some drink clear tea, some drink milk tea, and some drink butter tea. There are many names, but the most common one is butter tea.Butter tea is a kind of tea made by adding raw materials such as ghee to tea soup, and then processed by special methods.The so-called ghee is to boil milk or goat milk, stir it with a spoon, pour it into a bamboo bucket, and condense a layer of fat on the surface of the solution after cooling.As for the tea leaves, Pu'er tea, Jinjian, etc. in the pressed tea category are generally used.The processing method of butter tea is more particular. Generally, water is boiled in a pot first. After the water is boiled, the pressed tea is smashed with a knife and boiled in boiling water for about half an hour. After the tea juice is leached, the tea leaves are filtered out. Put the tea juice into a long cylindrical tea bucket.At the same time, use another pot to boil the milk until a layer of ghee is condensed on the surface, then pour it into a tea tube filled with tea soup, and then add some salt and sugar.At this time, cover the tea canister, hold the long stick in the upright tea canister that can move up and down with your hands, and keep pounding.According to the experience of the Tibetans, when the sound in the cylinder changes from "Boom, Boom, Boom, Boom, Boom, Boom," the tea, butter, salt, sugar, etc. have been mixed together, and the buttered tea is ready.

The tea tubes used for making buttered tea are mostly made of copper, and even some are made of silver.The tea sets used to hold buttered tea are mostly made of silver, and some are even made of gold.Although most tea bowls are wooden, they are often inlaid with gold, silver or copper.What's more, made of emerald, this gorgeous and expensive tea set is often regarded as a family heirloom.And these tea sets of different grades are a sign of the degree of people's property ownership. Butter tea is a kind of liquid 22 Chinese tea body made by mixing various raw materials with tea as the main ingredient. Therefore, it has various tastes. It can be said to be unique in style to increase cold resistance, and its effect is better than that of tea.In the grasslands and plateaus of Tibet, there are few people, and few guests come to the house.Occasionally there are guests coming, and there are not many things that can be entertained. In addition to the unique function of butter tea itself, it has naturally become a precious thing for warmly entertaining guests.

Etiquette is very important for drinking butter tea. Usually, after the guests arrive at the door, the housewife will immediately offer tsampa, which is a kind of powder paste made from fried barley powder and tea juice, and is also kneaded into balls.Afterwards, a tea bowl was handed over to each of the guests. The housewife politely poured buttered tea to the guests one by one according to their seniority, and then warmly invited everyone to drink tea.At this time, the host and guest eat tsampa while drinking buttered tea. This rare tea drinking custom is really unique to most people.However, according to the local customs, when guests drink butter tea, they can't drink it all at once. This way of drinking tea voraciously is considered impolite and uncivilized.Generally, every time a bowl of tea is drunk, a little is left, which is regarded as a compliment to the housewife's extraordinary skill in making tea.After two or three visits like this, the guests felt that they didn't want to drink any more, so they politely poured the remaining tea soup on the ground to show that they were full of butter tea.

Because Tibetans drink butter tea more important than other ethnic groups, everyone, regardless of gender, age, or age, drinks as many as 20 bowls of tea a day. Many people often put teapots on the stove, Boiled for easy drinking on the go.There is a local custom that when lamas offer sacrifices, the devout believers should offer tea, and the rich and wealthy should serve tea.They believe that this is "accumulating virtue" and "doing good deeds".Therefore, in some large lamasery in Tibet, there is often an extra-large tea pot with a diameter of more than 1.5 meters, which can hold several loads of tea. It is a kind of charity from Buddhism.When men and women marry, Tibetan brothers regard tea as a precious gift, which symbolizes a happy marriage and happiness.

It is impossible to verify when butter tea started.According to legend, its earliest appearance is related to Princess Wencheng, who brought tea leaves when Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty entered Tibet.So to this day, as long as there are guests from afar, Tibetan compatriots often talk about this good story in memory of Princess Wencheng. (Yao Guokun) Like herdsmen in Xinjiang and Tibet, Mongolian people like to drink salty milk tea boiled with milk and salt. The salty milk tea drunk by the Mongolian compatriots is mostly green brick tea and black brick tea, which are cooked in iron pots, which is different from the way Tibetans make buttered tea and Uighurs use teapots when making milk tea.However, when cooking, you must add milk, and you are used to "making tea", which is the same.This is due to the low air pressure on the plateau, and the boiling point of water is within 100°C. In addition, brick tea is different from loose tea, which has a firm texture, and it is difficult to extract the tea juice when brewed with boiling water.

When making salty milk tea, you should first break the brick tea, put the cleaned iron pot on the fire, and fill it with 2-3 kg of water.When the water boils, put about 25 grams of mashed brick tea. After boiling for another 3 to 5 minutes, add milk, the dosage is about one-fifth of the water; after a few hectares, add appropriate amount of salt as needed.When the whole pot of milk tea starts to boil, the salty milk tea is considered ready. Cooking salty milk tea seems relatively simple, but in fact, the taste is good or bad, the nutritional content of 42 Chinese tea classics, the pot used for making tea, the tea in, the water added, the milk mixed, the cooking time, and the sequence It all matters.If the tea leaves are left behind, or the order of adding tea and milk is reversed, the tea flavor will not come out.And if the cooking time is too long, the fragrance of salty milk tea will be exhausted.The Mongolian compatriots believe that only when utensils, tea, milk, salt, and temperature are coordinated with each other, can we cook salty, sweet, and delicious salty milk tea.For this reason, all Mongolian women have mastered the skill of cooking salty milk tea, and it can be said that all of them are tea-making experts.Generally speaking, since girls are sensible, mothers will carefully teach their daughters the skills of tea making.When a girl gets married, after her husband's family welcomes her, once the wedding ceremony is held, the bride has to show off her tea-making skills in front of relatives and friends.And the salty milk tea made by myself will be presented to all the guests to taste, to show their extraordinary skills and good tutoring.Otherwise, there will be suspicion of lack of education. Mongolians love to drink tea.People in other regions say, "three meals a day" It is indispensable, but the Mongolian people often "tea three times a day", but are only used to "one meal a day".Every morning when the housewives wake up, they first cook a pot of salty milk tea for the whole family to drink all day long.Mongolians like to drink hot tea and eat fried rice while drinking tea in the morning.After morning tea, warm the rest of the salted milk tea over a low heat so that it can be taken as needed.Usually, the family only eats a formal meal after returning home from grazing at night, but drinking salty milk tea three times in the morning, noon and evening is generally indispensable.If you eat beef and mutton for dinner, the whole family will drink tea before going to bed.As for middle-aged and elderly men, the frequency of drinking tea is even more.Therefore, the average annual tea consumption of the Mongolian people is as high as about 8 kilograms, and most of them are more than 15 kilograms. The Mongolian people drink so much (tea) and eat (food) lightly, but they are strong and strong. This is certainly related to the climate and working conditions in the local pastoral areas, but it is also due to the rich nutrition and complete ingredients of salty milk tea; in addition, the Mongolian people often drink tea. Eat some fried rice, fried fruit and so on to satisfy your hunger. 52 (Yao Guokun) Bamboo scented tea is called "Ladou" in Dai language and "Wajiena" in Lahu language. It is a unique drink of the Dai and Lahu people. Dai people have lived in fertile and fertile Bazi in tropical and subtropical climates for generations. They mainly live in Xishuangbanna and Dehong autonomous prefectures and Gengma and Menglian autonomous counties in Yunnan Province. They have a population of 836,000 and are good at singing and dancing.The "Dianyue" and "Shan" recorded in the history of the Han Dynasty are the ancestors of the Dai people.The history of the Tang Dynasty was called "Golden Teeth", "Silver Teeth", "Black Teeth" and "White Clothes". The Song Dynasty was called "Golden Teeth" and "White Clothes". The Yuan and Ming wrote "Baiyi". "Bait". The Lahu nationality is one of the mountainous ethnic groups distributed in the border counties of Lancang, Menglian, Gengma, Cangyuan, Menghai and Ximeng in Yunnan. "Lahu" means roasting and eating tiger meat in a special way.In Lahu language, the tiger is called "La", and the meat roasted by the fire until it is fragrant is called "Hu".Therefore, the Lahu people are called "the people who hunt tigers", with a population of about 300,000. Bamboo Tube Fragrant Tea is also known as "Girl Tea" because of its delicate raw materials. It is produced in Menghai County, Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture. There are two ways to make fragrant tea in bamboo tubes: one is to pluck the delicate one-bud two-three leaves, kill them in an iron pot, knead them, and then put them into a tube of tender sweet bamboo (also known as fragrant bamboo and golden bamboo) that has grown for one year. The bamboo-tube fragrant tea made has both the mellow tea fragrance of tea leaves and the rich sweet bamboo fragrance; another method is to put 0.25 kg of first-grade sun-dried youth tea leaves into a small rice steamer, and stack the bottom of the steamer. Soak glutinous rice with a thickness of 6-7 cm, put a piece of gauze in the center of the retort, put Maocha on it, steam for about 15 minutes, wait for the tea leaves to soften 62 cm, pour out after the tea leaves have fully absorbed the aroma of glutinous rice, and immediately put them into the prepared bamboo tube.The fragrant tea made in bamboo tubes made by this method has all the three fragrances, including the fragrance of tea, the fragrance of sweet bamboo and the fragrance of glutinous rice.The opening of the bamboo tube is 5-6 cm in diameter and 22-25 cm in length. It is packed tightly with small sticks, and then the opening of the tube is blocked with sweet bamboo leaves or grass paper, and placed on a tea-baking rack about 40 cm above the charcoal fire. Bake slowly with a slow fire, turn the bamboo tube once in about 5 minutes, when the bamboo tube turns from green to burnt yellow, and when the tea leaves in the tube are all dried, cut open the bamboo tube, and it will become bamboo tube fragrant tea. Bamboo-tube scented tea is shaped like a dark brown cylinder in the shape of a bamboo tube. It has the characteristics of tender buds and leaves, many pekoe, yellow-green soup, clear and bright, rich aroma, fresh and sweet aftertaste.Just take a little tea and brew it with boiling water for 5 minutes, then you can drink it. When the Dai and Lahu people work in the fields or go hunting in the primeval forests, they often bring fragrant tea made in bamboo tubes with them.During the break, they cut a section of sweet bamboo, sharpened the upper part, poured spring water into it and boiled it on the fire, then put fragrant tea in a bamboo tube and boiled it for another 5 minutes, and drank slowly after the bamboo tube cooled down slightly.Such a picnic, while drinking tea bamboo tube, do not have a lot of fun.Drinking fragrant bamboo tea can not only quench your thirst, but also relieve your fatigue, making you feel refreshed. Bamboo tube fragrant tea is resistant to storage.Wrap the prepared fragrant tea in bamboo tubes with kraft paper and store them in a dry place. The quality will not change all year round. (Su Fanghua) There are 236,000 Naxi people, who mainly live in Lijiang Naxi Autonomous County in northwestern Yunnan, Ninglang, Yongsheng, Weixi, Zhongdian, Deqin and other places.In addition, there are also a small amount of distribution in Yanyuan, Muli and other counties of Sichuan Province.The Naxi people mainly live in the alpine and canyon areas of Yunnan Province, most of which are above 2,000 meters above sea level.Due to the high altitude, dry climate, staple food, and lack of vegetables, tea has long been an essential source of life for them.It is generally reported that if one does not drink tea for a day, one will feel dizzy, have weakness in limbs, affect work, and even be unable to get out of bed in severe cases, suffering from "tea disease". Brewing salted tea is a common tea drinking method of the Naxi people.The Lisu, Han, Pumi, Miao, Nu and other nationalities living here also often drink Yanba tea.The method of making it is to wash a special small earthen pot with a capacity of about 200-400 ml first, then put it on the firepit and roast it hot, grab a handful of green hair tea (about 5 grams) or break a piece of cake tea into the pot and roast it until fragrant. , and then pour the boiling water in the teapot next to the firepit into the crock, and the tea in the pot will boil and bubbles will come out.In some places, the first tea juice is poured out because it is not very clean.For the second time, pour boiling water into the earthen pot until it is full. After the boiling stops, put a piece of salt in the tea water in the pot, stir it with chopsticks three to five times, and pour the tea juice into the tea cup, usually only until the tea Half of the cup, then add boiled water to dilute it, and it is ready to drink.Simmer while drinking until the smell of tea in the crock disappears.This kind of tea soup is orange in color, has a strong tea flavor and a salty taste, and it tastes particularly good for relieving fatigue.Generally, three or four dishes can be brewed for each roast.Because it is located in an alpine region and vegetables are scarce, tea is often used instead of vegetables.Now, some of the ethnic groups here have developed to the point that each family member has a tea pot, "Bao Gu (corn) Baba Salt Tea, wife and children a fire pit".Tea has become an indispensable necessities of life for them. They must drink tea three times a day, and drink it once when they get up early in the morning.Drink tea again after returning from work at noon and evening. "A cup of tea in the morning will make the day majestic; a cup of afternoon tea will make labor easier; a cup of evening tea will refresh you and relieve pain; three cups a day will make you unshakable." It has become a tea-drinking proverb of the Naxi people.When visiting the homes of these ethnic groups as guests, they would immediately move a bench and hand the guests a teacup, while drinking tea and chatting, the chatterbox 82 Chinese Tea Classics was thus opened. The Naxi language of "Dragon and Tiger Fighting" is called "Ajile Roast". Its drinking method is very interesting, and it is also a medicinal tea they use to treat colds.Put the tea in a small earthenware pot and bake it. After the tea is browned, pour boiling water into it to make it thick like traditional Chinese medicine.At the same time, pour half a cup of white wine into the teacup, and then pour the boiled tea juice into the wine (be careful not to pour the wine into the tea), then the teacup will make a pleasant sound, and you can drink it after the sound is over.Some also add a chili pepper.According to the local people, after drinking a cup of dragon and tiger fighting, the whole body sweats, and after a night's sleep, the head is not dizzy, the whole body is strong, and the cold is cured. (Su Fanghua) There are 467,000 Lisu people, who mainly live in the Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture of Yunnan Province. Drinking Leixiang tea is the custom of the Lisu people. Leixiang tea is a kind of butter tea.First use a large earthen pot that can simmer 750 grams of water to boil the water, then put the cake tea in the small earthen pot to roast until fragrant, then add the boiling water in the large earthen pot to the small earthen pot to make tea.After boiling for 5 minutes, filter out the tea leaves, and pour the tea juice into the butter cylinder.Pour in two or three cans of tea juice, add ghee, and add fried and crushed walnuts, peanuts, salt or sugar, eggs, etc. in advance.Finally, put a red-hot pebble with a hole in the fire into the butter tube, so that the tea juice in the tube makes a "chichi" sound like thunder.Immediately after the sound, beat up and down vigorously with a wooden pestle to make the ghee into a mist and evenly dissolve in the tea juice.Pour it out and drink it while it is hot.Drinking this way can enhance the aroma and concentration of the tea juice. (Su Fanghua) The Blang people are descendants of the "Pu people", with a total of 58,000 people. They mainly live in the Bulang Mountain in Menghai County, Yunnan Province, as well as in the mountainous areas of Xiding and Bada.In Zhenkang, Shuangjiang, Lincang, Jingdong, Lancang, Mojiang and other counties, there are also some scattered or intermingled communities, most of whom live in high mountains above 1,500 meters above sea level. They are used to eating sour tea all year round. The tea making time of sour tea is generally in May and June.In the summer tea season with high temperature and high humidity, boil the young and fresh leaves, put them in a dark place for more than 10 days to let them moldy, then put them into bamboo tubes and bury them in the soil, and they can be taken out for more than a month.When eating sour tea, chew it in your mouth and swallow it carefully. It can help digestion and quench your thirst.It's a gift to feed yourself or give to each other. (Su Fanghua) The Bai people live scattered in Southwest China, but mainly in Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. This is a very hospitable people.The Bai family, no matter in festive days such as festivals, birthdays, weddings, etc., or when relatives and friends come to visit, the host will treat the guests with the three-course tea of ​​"one bitter, two sweet and three aftertaste". Three courses of tea, called "Shaodaozhao" in Bai language, is a custom of Bai people's hospitality. When guests come to the door, the host will have a heart-to-heart talk with the guests, and at the same time tell the family members to set fire to boil water.When the water boils, the most prestigious elders in the family or clan will serve the tea in person. First, a relatively rough small sand pot is placed on a slow fire to bake.After the 03 Chinese tea is roasted and heated in the can, immediately take a pinch of tea leaves and put them into the can, and keep turning the can to make the tea evenly heated.But when the tea in the pot makes a "popping" sound, the color changes from green to yellow, and it emits a burnt aroma, pour boiled water into the pot at will.After a while, the host poured the boiling tea in the tank into a small teacup called a bull's-eye cup.However, there is not much tea soup in the cup. The Bai people believe that "full wine is a respect, and tea is full of deceit". Therefore, the tea soup is only half a cup, and it can be dried in one sip.Because this tea is roasted and boiled thick juice, it looks like amber, smells burnt, and tastes bitter when drunk.After brewing the first course of tea, the host presents the tea to the guests with both hands. After receiving the tea with both hands, the host usually drinks it all in one gulp.Although this tea is fragrant, it is also bitter enough, so it is called "bitter tea".The Bai people call this first tea "the tea of ​​bitterness".It implies the principle of being a human being: "To establish a career, you must first endure hardship." After drinking the first course of tea, the host will re-roast the tea and add water in a small casserole (or re-boil the first course of tea left in the casserole).At the same time, replace the ox-eye cup with a small bowl or ordinary cup, put brown sugar and walnut meat in it, and serve the guests when the tea is 80% full.This tea is sweet and fragrant, with a special flavor. If the first course of tea is bitter, then the second course of tea is called sweet tea, and the Bai people call it sugar tea or sweet tea.It implies that "in life, whatever you do, only when you suffer, will you have sweetness." The third tea is more interesting. The host first puts a full spoonful of honey and 3~5 prickly ash into a cup (bowl), and then pours boiling tea, the capacity of which is usually half a cup (bowl).When the guest takes the teacup, shake the teacup to make the tea soup and condiments evenly mixed;This tea tastes endless aftertaste, it can be described as sweet, bitter, numbing, spicy, all flavors are delicious.Therefore, the Bai people call it "aftertaste tea".Some hosts are even more ingenious, taking a milk fan made of milk and baking it on a slow fire. When the milk fan is heated and foams and turns yellow, it is crushed by hand and added to the first milk fan. During the three courses of tea.Drinking this kind of tea, you can not only enjoy the tea fragrance and tea taste, but also taste the flavor of Bai traditional food.It is even more memorable.It implies that people should always "reminisce" and keep in mind the philosophy of "bitterness first, sweetness later". Generally, when the host entertains three courses of tea, each course of tea is usually separated by 3 to 5 minutes.In addition, you have to put some melon seeds, pine nuts, candies and the like on the table to increase the taste of tea tasting. It is said that the three-course tea of ​​the Bai nationality was originally a kind of etiquette and custom for the elders to study, learn art, do business, and when the new son-in-law came to the younger generation.Its formation is also accompanied by a philosophical legend: a long time ago, at the foot of Cangshan Mountain in Dali, there lived a highly skilled old carpenter.He has an apprentice, who has been studying for many years and is still not allowed to leave the teacher.One day, he said to his apprentice: "As a carpenter, you can carve and carve, but you have only learned half of it. If you go up the mountain with me, you can saw down the big tree, saw off the board, and carry it home. Unconvinced, the apprentice followed his master up the mountain, found a hemp chestnut tree, and immediately sawed the tree.But before the apprentice sawed the tree into boards, he felt thirsty, so he begged the master to let him go down the mountain to fetch water to quench his thirst, but the master refused.In the evening, before sawing the board, the apprentice couldn't stand it anymore, so he grabbed a handful of leaves and chewed them in his mouth, trying to quench his thirst.The master saw the way the apprentice frowned and clicked his tongue again, and asked the apprentice with a smile, "How does it taste?" The apprentice had no choice but to tell the truth: "It's so hard!" The master said earnestly at this time: "If you want to learn the craft well, how can you not go through some hardships first?" This continued until the sunset at the west mountain. Although the board was sawed, the apprentice was exhausted. Collapsed.At this time, the master took out a piece of brown sugar from his bosom and handed it to the disciple, solemnly saying: "This is called bitterness before sweetness!"So he got up quickly and carried the board home.From then on, the master let the apprentices become teachers.When we parted, the master scooped up a bowl of tea, put some honey and prickly ash leaves on it, asked the apprentice to drink the 23 Chinese tea scriptures, and asked, "Is this tea bitter or sweet?" The apprentice replied, "Sweet, bitter, Numb, spicy, all kinds of flavors." The master laughed and said, "The reason for this tea is similar to the principle of learning crafts and being a human being. It must be bitter before sweet, and you have to savor it well." Since then, the three-course tea of ​​the Bai people has become a set of etiquette and customs for the younger generation when they learn art and school.Later, the scope of application expanded day by day, and it became a form for the Bai people to celebrate and welcome guests, especially when the new son-in-law came to the house and the children got married and started a business, the elders earnestly warned the younger generation. Today, with the development of society and the improvement of life, the ingredients of the Bai people's three-course tea have changed and the content is more abundant, but the basic characteristics of "one bitterness, two sweetness, and three aftertaste" remain the same. a traditional fashion. In addition, in the areas where the Bai people live, it is also popular to drink Leicha, which is called "Kuozhao" in the Bai language.This is a very interesting way of drinking tea.When drinking tea, everyone sits in a circle, and the host puts the buds and leaves just picked from the tea tree, or the raw tea that has just been made, into a small sand pot, then clamps it with tongs, and bakes it on the fire.After a while, when the tea leaves in the tank cracked and gave off a caramel aroma, boiling water was poured into the tank, and there was a sound like thunder in the tank. There were sounds of surprise and laughter everywhere.Because this method of brewing tea can make a sound like thunder, it is named after it.It is said that this is also a symbol of auspiciousness.Once the thunder tea is cooked, the host lifts the sand pot and pours the tea soup into the tea cup one by one, and then the junior woman holds the cup with both hands and presents it to the guests. Amidst the praise, the host and the guest drink tea while Xuyi, heralds the happiness and auspiciousness of the future life. (Yao Guokun) The Tujia people mainly live in the Wuling mountain area at the junction of Sichuan, Guizhou, Hunan and Hubei provinces. There are towering ancient trees and shades of trees everywhere. It is known as "delicious grass and colorful fallen flowers". It is one of the tourist attractions in my country.Since the local ecological environment is suitable for growing tea, it has been an important origin of high-quality tea and many famous teas in my country in history.The beauty of mountains and tea is fascinating, but the custom of drinking Lei Cha by the Tujia people is even more amazing. Leicha, also known as Sanshengtang.There are two theories about the origin of this name: one is that Lei Cha is named after three raw materials, raw leaves (referring to the fresh young buds and leaves on the tea tree), ginger and raw rice, are added to water and cooked.The second is that during the Three Kingdoms period, Zhang Fei led troops to attack Wuling Hutou Mountain (in present-day Changde County, Hunan Province). Hundreds of soldiers under his command fell ill, and even Zhang Fei himself was not spared.At the time of the crisis, an old herbal doctor in the village felt that Zhang Fei's subordinates were strict in discipline and did no harm to the common people. Therefore, he specially presented Lei Cha, a secret recipe passed down from his ancestors to eliminate plague, and distributed Lei Cha to the soldiers.As a result, the tea (medicine) cured the disease.For this, Zhang Fei was very grateful and called the old man "a genius doctor descending to earth".Said: "This is the luck of Sansheng!" Since then, people have also called Lei Cha as Sansheng Tang. When making Lei Cha, generally, the raw leaves, ginger, and raw rice are poured into a bowl made of hawthorn wood in a certain proportion according to the taste of each person, and they are pounded vigorously back and forth until the three ingredients are mixed and ground into a paste. Put the bowl into the pot again, add water to boil, and it becomes Lei Cha.Because tea can refresh the mind and eliminate evil, clear fire and improve eyesight; ginger can regulate the spleen and relieve the exterior, remove dampness and sweat; raw rice can strengthen the spleen and moisten the lungs, harmonize the stomach and stop fire.Therefore, Lei Cha has the effect of clearing heat and detoxifying 43 Chinese tea meridians, and clearing the lungs.There is a certain scientific reason for saying that Lei Cha is a good medicine for curing diseases.Because drinking Lei Cha has many benefits, especially for people in mountainous areas with high cold and humidity, drinking Lei Cha has naturally become a local custom.As a result, it has been passed down from generation to generation, and even some other ethnic groups living in the local area have developed the habit of drinking Lei Cha.Generally, when people come home from work at noon, they always drink a few bowls of Lei Cha before eating.Some elderly people even eat several bowls of tea three times a day. As long as they don't drink Lei Cha for a day, they will feel weak and unhappy.Drinking Lei Cha is as important as eating, saying that "three meals a day, tea and rice, are always indispensable."On a good night and auspicious day, Lei Cha is naturally an indispensable product; the Tujia people regard it as a "snack" for entertaining relatives and friends.However, due to the different preferences of each person, some people add sugar or salt to Lei Cha, and some even add peanuts, sesame seeds, popcorn, etc. There are all kinds of flavors.If a bowl of tea can really relax your body and refresh your mind, then you will understand the truth that Lei Cha "is not only a drink that can quench your thirst, but also a good medicine that can cure diseases".Nowadays, with the improvement of people's living standards, the production and selection of Lei Cha are more particular. On many occasions, Lei Cha is served with many delicious snacks, which means "replacing wine with tea" and The beauty of "using tea as a snack" is more fun to drink Lei Cha in this way.The production of lei cha has also been improved. Usually, fried golden sesame seeds and fried oily peanuts are mixed with jasmine tea, plus bright white sugar, mixed well and crushed, and then poured into boiling water to make lei cha. , it is like soy milk, like milk, it tastes cool and delicious, tastes sweet, and has the effect of preventing disease, keeping fit, prolonging life and anti-aging. (Yao Guokun) In the border areas of northern Guangxi and southern Hunan and the Zunyi area of ​​Guizhou, there are many Dong, Miao and Yao ethnic groups living together. They have lived with Han, Zhuang, Hui, Shui and other ethnic groups for generations, and they are very hospitable.Although the people living here have different customs and habits in clothing, food, housing and transportation, they all like to make camellia oleifera and everyone drinks camellia oleifera.Especially on festive festivals, or when relatives and friends come to the door, they treat the guests with camellia oleifera, which is well-styled and well-selected.On weekdays, the family will inevitably drink a few bowls of oil tea soup every day to dispel evil and dampness, cheer up and prevent colds. When Camellia oleifera began, there is no information to verify.Some "birthday stars" who live in the local area only know that it is passed down from generation to generation.They believe: "Drinking too much green tea will make you bloated, and eating too much camellia oil will make you feel refreshed." Therefore, there is a popular local jingle that praises drinking camellia oleifera: "Sesame oil and sesame seeds are added with chopped green onion, which is not as good as fine wine and honey. One day camellia oleifera Drink three bowls to nourish your energy and energy." It can be seen that the people living there regard drinking tea as important as eating. Camellia oleifera comes in various forms and is rich in content. "Fighting" actually means "doing", and it usually goes through four procedures.First is to order tea.There are usually two kinds of tea used for oil tea: one is special roasted end tea, and the other is young shoots and leaves from the tea tree, which depends on the growing season of the tea tree and each person's taste and preference.The second is the seasoning.The seasonings used for making Camellia oleifera include fish, meat, sesame, peanuts, green onions, ginger, etc. and cooking oil (usually camellia oil) in addition to tea and rice flower.The third is to make tea.Mr. fire, when the bottom of the pot is hot, put the oil into the pot, but when the oil surface smokes, immediately pour the tea leaves into the pot, and stir fry continuously with a spatula, when the tea leaves are fragrant, add sesame, Peanuts, ginger and the like.After a while, add water and cover, boil for 3-563 minutes, and when the tea soup is about to boil, sprinkle a handful of green onion and ginger.At this time, it is considered that the oil tea that is fresh, fragrant and refreshing without losing the tea flavor is finished.If this kind of Camellia oleifera is used to entertain guests, then the fourth process has to be carried out, which is to match the tea.Generally, various dishes or foods have to be placed in the prepared camellia oleifera. Due to the different ingredients added, there are fish roe tea, glutinous rice camellia, rice flower camellia, and mugwort tea camellia.Camellia oleifera has become a necessity of local life and a noble courtesy for receiving guests.If you are entertaining friends and relatives, then according to the local custom, you have to invite the "master" of oil tea in the village to come out and fry delicious and crispy food, such as fried chicken nuggets, fried pork liver, fried shrimp, etc. Separately into bowls.Then, pour the freshly beaten camellia oil into the tea bowl containing food while it is hot.Then came the serving of tea.奉（油）茶是十分讲礼节的，通常当主人快要打好油茶时，就招呼客人围桌入座，主人彬彬有礼地将筷子一一放在客人前面的方桌上。少顷，主人用双手分别向宾客奉上油茶，而众宾客随即用双手接茶，并欠身含笑点头致谢。此时，主人和蔼可亲地连声道“记协，记协”（意即请用茶）；接着，客人开始喝油茶。为了表示对主人热忱好客的回敬，为了赞美油茶生香可口的美味，客人喝油茶时，总是边吃边啜，赞口不已。一碗吃光，主人马上添加食物，再喝两碗。按照当地风俗，客人喝油茶，一般不少于三碗，这叫“三碗不见外”。 其实，油茶与其说是茶汤，还不如说它是一道茶叶菜肴；与其说是喝油茶，还不如说是吃油茶。这种独特的茶叶泡煮方法，妙趣横生的饮茶方式，以及如此奇异的待人接物礼仪，即使平生享受一次，亦有终生难忘之感。 （姚国坤） 回族主要居住在我国的大西北，特别在甘肃、宁夏、青海三省（区）最为集中。由于这里地处高原，气候寒冷，蔬菜供应困难，奶制品是当地的主要食品之一。而茶叶中存在的大量维生素类物质，正好可以补充蔬菜的不足。茶叶中存在的大量多酚类物质，又正好有助于去除油腻，帮助消化，以利人们对奶制品的吸收。所以，在历史上，茶叶一直是当地人民不可缺少的生活资料，一般成年人每月用茶量达１公斤左右，老年用茶量更多。至于饮茶方式，更是多种多样。大致说来，在城市习惯于清茶泡饮；在牧区习惯于奶茶煮饮。而在广大农牧区众多的饮茶方式中，最称奇特的要算是喝罐罐茶了。 罐罐茶通常以中下等炒青绿茶为原料，经加水熬煮而成，所以，煮罐罐茶，又称熬罐罐茶。熬煮罐罐茶的茶具，表面看来，简陋粗糙。煮茶用的罐子，高不足１０厘米，口径不到５厘米，腹部稍大些，直径也不超过７厘米，可谓小矣！至于罐子的质地，是用土陶烧制而成的。就整体而言，犹如一只缩小了的粗陶坛钵。但当地认为：“用土陶罐煮茶，不走茶味；用金属罐煮茶，会变茶性。”与此相搭配的是喝茶用的茶杯，是一只形如酒盅大小的粗瓷杯。当地人认为：“用小粗瓷杯泡茶，能保色保香。”这种说法是有一定道理的。宋代审安老人撰的《茶具图赞》中，称赞小茶罐能起到“养浩然之气，发沸腾之声，以执中之能，辅成汤之德”的作用。明代冯可宾８３中国茶经的《岕茶笺》中曾谈到：“茶壶以小为贵，每宾壶一把，任其自酌自饮为得趣。”“壶小，香不涣散，味不耽搁。”用现代科学的观点来看，用金属类罐（杯）子煮茶泡茶，在加热冲泡过程中，金属物质会与茶叶中滋味的主要构成物质多酚类发生氧化作用，从而产生另一种新的物质，这样，当然会使茶味“走样”了。而土陶却不然，由于土陶通透性好，散热快，不易使茶汤产生异味，因此，用土陶茶具煮茶泡茶，自然有利于保香、保色和保味了。 熬煮罐罐茶的方法比较简单，与煎中药大致相仿。煮茶时，先在罐子中盛上半罐水，然后将罐子放在点燃的小火炉上，一旦到罐内水沸腾时，放入茶叶５～８克，边煮边拌，使茶、水相融，茶汁充分浸出，这样经２～３分钟后，再向罐内加水至八成满，直到茶水再次沸腾时，罐罐茶才算熬煮好了。 这时，即可倾汤入杯。由于罐罐茶的用茶量大，又是经熬煮而成的，所以，茶汁甚浓，一般不惯于喝罐罐茶的人，会感到又苦又涩。好在喝罐耀茶的杯子容量很小，不可能如同喝大碗茶一般，大口大口地喝下去。但对长期生活在那里的人们来说，早已习惯成自然了，一般在上午上班前和下午下班后，少不了得喝上几杯罐罐茶。他们认为：“只有喝罐罐茶才过瘾。”还说：“喝罐罐茶有四大好处：提精神、助消化、去病魔、保康健。”其实，这种喝罐罐茶习惯的形成，与当地的人文地理、生活环境是相联系的。 （姚国坤）