Chapter 4 Two, tea art

Tea has the effects of keeping fit, quenching thirst, and curing diseases. It is also full of appreciation and can cultivate sentiment, so people call tea a recreational drink. Tea is not only a beverage, but also a special handicraft.With a cup of tea in hand, you can not only smell the fragrance, taste the color, but also enjoy the tea drinking environment and the poetic and picturesque atmosphere of the tea set.Tasting tea is full of wit and wit. It is not only a kind of material enjoyment, but also an elegant entertainment that enriches the interest of life and leads to physical and mental comfort.Since drinking tea is rich in art, the art of tea tasting came into being.In the history of tea drinking in China, tea art has always been respected by people.Qian Qi, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, said "Bamboo under the forget words to the purple tea, wins the feather guest drunk Liuxia".Li Jiayou's "Fortunately, the fragrant tea keeps young children, but the autumn grass gives away the grandchildren".Mountains, bamboo groves, purple tea, cool breeze, family and friends get together, and close friends express their feelings. Tasting tea like this is as elegant as delicacies in the clouds, and the beauty of tea art is naturally included in it.

The "tasting" of tea tasting can be interpreted as "tasting". "Zhou Li Tianguan Shan Fu" said: "The food is sacrificed and tasted, and the king is the food." Zheng Xuan's note: "Those who taste, taste every food." "Taste" is not only used for tea evaluation, Distinguishing the quality of tea leaves, you can also sip them slowly to enjoy the beauty and sublimate the spiritual world to a noble artistic realm. Xu Wei in the Ming Dynasty said in "Xu Wenchang's Secret Collection", "Tea should be a fine house, a cloud forest, a bamboo stove, a secluded person and an elegant scholar, sitting in a cold sky, under the pine moon, among flowers and birds, clean white stones, green and fresh. Draw the spring with plain hands, sweep the snow with red makeup, blow fire from the bow of the boat, and smoke in the bamboo.”It shows that the ancients attached great importance to the environment of drinking tea.

The environment for drinking tea is generally composed of buildings, gardens, furnishings, tea sets and other factors.The organic composition of these factors can form a good environment for drinking tea. It is difficult to choose a building for family tea drinking, but in a limited space, you can find a suitable location.Generally speaking, it is best to choose a place facing the sun by the window, with a coffee table, sofa or desk chair.Place potted flowers on the window sill and vines above.If there are no potted flowers, it is also appropriate to put seasonal fresh cut flowers on the coffee table.Flowers can coordinate the environment. Because flowers have beautiful colors, wonderful shapes, graceful postures and lovely characters, they can make people pleasing to the eye, and the fragrance of flowers makes people feel refreshed.

The shade of green leaves can eliminate the fatigue of eye nerves, relax the central nervous system, and make people relaxed and happy. When drinking tea at home, the use of tea sets varies from person to person.For a drink alone, ceramic tea sets are available.If you invite three friends, four friends, or guests to visit, you should adjust measures according to the conditions of the guests.Elderly people can use purple clay tea sets; young people can use glass tea sets or white porcelain tea sets; ladies can use celadon or even thin porcelain tea sets. In short, tea drinking at home requires quietness, freshness, comfort, and cleanliness. Make use of all favorable conditions as much as possible, such as balconies, small gardens in the courtyard, and even corners.

Public tea drinking places have different requirements because of their different levels and styles.There is no need to pay too much attention to buildings in public tea drinking places. Bamboo buildings, tile houses, wooden houses, thatched houses, etc. do as the Romans do.No matter how the building is, good lighting is required so that tea drinkers can feel bright and bright.The indoor furnishings can be simple, with tables, chairs and benches, neat and clean.Whether it is a large bowl of tea or a pot of tea, it must be clean and hygienic.High-end teahouses are more particular. The century-old teahouse "Huxin Pavilion" in Shanghai Town God's Temple has two floors. There are 28 14-cornered roofs.In the lobby of the museum, there are fragrant mahogany tables, tea table square stools, marble round tables, antique palace lamps hanging on the ceiling, wall lamps embedded on the walls, large windows around with light yellow curtains, and simple and elegant Yixing tea sets with ethnic characteristics on the tables. .The teahouse is surrounded by clear water and a long bridge with nine curves, and you can have a panoramic view of the beautiful scenery.The newly built "Lao She Tea House" in Beijing is even more magnificent. There is a stage in the tea room, and famous actors play and sing, which is unique.The tea rooms in some modern hotels are full of noble modern colors, artificial lighting, high-hanging lanterns, scarlet carpets, sofa coffee tables, white porcelain tea sets, air-conditioning temperature control, silk and bamboo sounds, and colorful lights, making people feel in a modern atmosphere. among.

Chinese gardens are famous all over the world, and the landscapes are innumerable.Use gardens or natural mountains and rivers to set up tea houses, let people have a rest, full of interest. "There is heaven above, and Suzhou and Hangzhou below", the beautiful scenery of Hangzhou is everywhere, and every scenic spot is always equipped with a tea room, or occupying a lake, or occupying a mountain, or in a secluded environment, hidden in a sea of ​​green .The Liulang Wenying teahouse, with pavilions and corridors connected, willow shade along the road, accompanied by fragrant grasses; the Huagang Guanyu teahouse, facing the lake on one side, swimming fish like shuttles in the lake, with lush flowers and trees, is better than a fairyland; Here, looking up at the bright moon, the moon is setting on the West Lake, and the lake is shining with silver, which is suspected to be the sky on earth.The Six Harmonies Pagoda Tea Room is backed by Wuyun Mountain and facing the Qiantang River. The bridge is like a bridge, the sails are dotted, the jade belt is full of traffic, and the river and mountains are full of sight. Dance; the Shuiledong teahouse in the cave is full of wit and wit, springs come out of stones, gold and stones are pounding, cool breeze blows, and the heat is gone.How can all kinds of tea rooms not be wowed by tea guests in such a beautiful environment?How can we not make tea drinkers fall in love with drinking tea even more?No wonder the ancients said: "I live in the original things without taking, and enjoy a cup of tea in the mountains."

Hanging calligraphy and paintings of celebrities in family tea drinking places or public tea rooms can also add a simple or modern atmosphere and increase the taste of tea tasting.Nowadays, some tea art performances are also fashionable to light incense, bursts of fragrance, tangy, faint smoke, faintly appearing, creating a unique environment for tea tasting. (Bai Kunyuan) Mr. Lu Xun once said: "Having good tea and being able to drink good tea is a kind of happiness, but to enjoy this happiness, first of all, you must have time, and secondly, you must have a special feeling from training." Knowing how to drink tea does not mean being able to appreciate it. Tea, but only by appreciating tea can one drink good tea and discover its beauty, so as to reach the highest level of tea art.

Cao Xueqin and Gao E described in many places the drinking and appreciation of tea of ​​different classes at that time.In the forty-first chapter "Jia Baoyu Tastes Tea in the Cuicui Temple, Liu Laolao Gets Drunk and Lys in the Yihong Courtyard", it is said that Jia's mother wants to eat good tea, so she orders Miaoyu to do it, and Baoyu sees how Miaoyu is doing in the Changcui Temple. Acting, "I saw Miaoyu personally holding a small tea tray filled with begonia-style carved lacquer filled with gold and dragons' birthday, and inside it was a small kiln bell with five colors, holding it with Jia Mu. Jia Mu said: "I don't eat Lu'an tea. Miaoyu laughed and said, "I know, this is the elder sister." Jiamu took it and asked, "What kind of water is it?" Miaoyu smiled and said, "It's the rainwater from the old year." Jiamu ate half of it. Liu Laolao ate it all in one gulp, and said with a smile, "It's good, it's just lighter, and it's better to make it thicker." Everyone in Jiamu laughed." Then everyone filled their bowls with the same color from the official kiln.Nearly 200 words describe the appreciation of tea vividly.It talked about the tea set, tea name, water usage, etiquette and so on when using tea.

Human beings' ability to appreciate is natural, but the strength of appreciation changes with the rise and fall of scientific culture.Mozi said: "The eyes have the same beauty in color; the mouth has the same addiction in taste." Everyone has sensory organs, and the level of thinking ability depends on people's appreciation. When appreciating tea, from the current point of view, one should consider the name of the tea first, the shape and color of the tea second, and the aroma and taste third. The birth of tea names is either named after the place of origin, or because of its unique quality, or because of historical allusions, or inscribed in memory of ancestors.Chinese tea, especially famous tea, has very beautiful names. If you can browse through the names like poems and words, and taste them carefully, you will be intoxicated, full of fragrance and imagination. "Green eyebrow green tea" reminds people of the curved eyebrows of ancient ladies, just like the ancient poem: "After putting on makeup, ask your husband in a low voice, and the thickness of the thrush is as deep as it is timeless".A good tea name can even remind people of splashed-ink paintings with protruding peaks, jagged rocks, vast mist, rippling clear water, flying dragons and phoenixes, and fragrant flowers. A magnificent poem of unrestrained grace.The ingenious and charming tea name shows the ingenious craftsmanship of the working people and the quality of the tea.Appreciating the name of tea can make people increase their knowledge and be versatile; appreciating the name of tea can also make people recall the past and think about the present, look forward to the future, and explore and pursue.

The shape and color of tea can infect people's visual cells and generate rich associations. The "Tea Classic" says: "Those who drink coarse tea, loose tea, powdered tea, and cake tea" show that there are many shapes of tea in ancient times, and the shapes of modern tea are even more varied.As far as loose tea is concerned, there are flat, needle-shaped, curly, granular, round, powder, flower-shaped, etc.; as for pressed tea, there are cylindrical, round and so on. , bowl-shaped, square, rectangular, bamboo-shaped, and so on. Tea leaves of different shapes have the same color and different colors.Judging from the appearance of tea leaves, there are yellow, black, green, red, and so on.Therefore, some are called white tea, some are called green tea, some are called black tea, some are called green tea, some are called red tea, and so on.

After brewing, the shape of the tea changes, and almost restores the natural state of the raw materials of the tea, especially some famous teas, which are high in tenderness, exquisite in processing, buds and leaves into flowers, graceful and graceful in the tea soup; what's more, because of Its buds are fat and strong, and the buds and leaves sink and float in the tea water, like knives and guns.The color of the tea soup gradually develops in the movement of buds and leaves, from shallow to deep, and a variety of teas form a variety of colors: red, green, yellow The same tea has different grades, different origins, and different seasons for picking tea. Small differences in processing, and even differences in tea sets and water quality will affect the color of tea soup. When the ancients tasted the soup, because the tea tasting method was different from the modern ones, they formed images of the veins of the tea soup and played a game of "dividing the tea".Ordering tea in ancient tea drinking will inevitably make the veins of the tea soup vibrate, forming a scene that looks like images and words, and thus uses rich imagination to carry out "tea opera" activities.There is a poem from the ancients that said: "The two (referring to the action of pouring soup into the bowl and the jade claws in the bowl) meet each other, strange, strange, true, good, and illusory, as diverse as breaking catkins into space, and the shadow falling on the cold river can change forever. ", vividly depicts the fun of sharing tea. Tasting the soup and smelling the tea are the essence of appreciating tea.The taste of tea soup depends mainly on the quality of tea leaves, and different varieties and qualities of tea have different tastes.Maofeng and Yunwu teas are fresh, mellow and refreshing, thick but not bitter, mellow but not light, with a sweet aftertaste; The taste is strong and irritating; while the thick and old tea leaves have a bland taste, even green and astringent.Appreciating the taste of tea soup depends mainly on the tongue. Therefore, to appreciate the taste of tea soup, one should make full use of the sensory organs of the tongue, especially the most sensitive part of the tongue, namely the tip of the tongue, to enjoy the natural nature of tea. Smelling tea is the most difficult part of appreciating tea, and it is difficult to get this kind of enjoyment without some experience and skills.Dry sniffing, that is, smelling the dry tea first.All kinds of tea have different dry aromas, such as sweet, burnt, and faint.Smell it hot again, after boiling the soup, the aroma of chestnuts, fruit, and fragrance will come to your nose; and when you sniff it cold, you will smell other smells covered by aromatic substances.Different types of aromas can be smelled in different ways.Appreciating scented tea, in addition to the fragrance of tea, natural floral fragrances such as jasmine, gardenia, white orchid, tortoise, pearl orchid, osmanthus, and rose come one after another.Good tea has a natural, genuine and pure aroma, while low-quality tea has a smell of burnt smoke and green grass, which is full of tea aroma, and some of them are also mixed with rancid smell, which makes people sick.Proper use of the nose and throat can help people appreciate and identify the aroma of tea. (Bai Kunyuan) Chinese people have always been very particular about the method of using tea.When the guests come, the host and the guest greet each other, expressing welcome or interruption.After the guests are seated, the host should choose tea sets and teas according to the hobbies, age, and gender of the guests.The ancients said: "The color of tea is white, and a black cup is suitable", on the contrary, "the color of tea is black, and a white cup is suitable".Tea sets and teas are well matched and can complement each other.If the guests are elderly, they can choose ceramic or celadon tea sets, while young guests can use white porcelain or glass vessels.Tea sets must be washed and dried before use, especially white porcelain, celadon or glassware, which must not leave tea stains or fingerprints.When using tea, the outer cover should be used to open the inner cover, or the end of a teaspoon should be used to open the cover.When adding tea leaves, do not grasp them with your hands. You can use tea spoons, ox horn spoons, stainless steel spoons, etc. instead of iron spoons.When pinching tea, it is advisable to add gradually, not too much at one time.If there is too much tea, the retrieved tea must not be poured into the tea pot again, it should be discarded. 64 The selection of tea in the Chinese Tea Classics depends on the season, time, and preferences of visitors.It is best for guests to choose their own tea.If you don’t like it very much, use new tea in spring to show elegance and elegance; use green tea in summer, which is green and clear, cool and refreshing; use scented tea in autumn, which is fragrant and tea-colored, and is lovable; black tea is suitable in winter, with a gentle color and full of warmth.If the guest is an elderly person, it is advisable to use stick tea, sip the essence, and talk about it in detail; if the guest is young, you can use broken tea, which has a quick juice, strong taste, and strong stimulation; if it is a lady, it is best to use scented tea or oolong tea. The fragrance of flowers is bursting, and the taste of tea is mellow.You should also pay attention to the tea time, use clear tea in the morning, light tea in the evening, and strong tea in general time.Drink tea one or two hours before meals, it is best to have some snacks, such as biscuits, to avoid "tea drunk". When brewing tea, it should be light and fast, and it can be eight percent full.After brewing, politely say to the guests: "Please use tea." The guests should also express their gratitude, and you can drink the tea after 3-4 minutes.When tasting tea, if you use a teacup, you should hold the handle with your right hand and open the lid with your left hand; if you use a glass cup, hold the cup with your thumb, middle finger, and index finger, and hold the bottom with your ring finger and little finger; Open the lid with your left hand, remove the tea leaves from the tea soup, and drink slowly.If you feel that the tea is overheated, you should put it on the tea table to cool down before drinking it, and do not blow it with your mouth to cool down. When drinking tea, when half or two-thirds of the tea in the guest's cup has gone, the host should pour water for the guest.At this time, the guests can thank each other face to face, or use the index finger and middle finger together to tap the table lightly to express their gratitude. After three rounds of tea, if the conversation is basically over, the guest should take the initiative to leave and express his gratitude for the success of the visit.The host should help the guest to take the coat and send the guest out. The correct use of tea is not only a matter of method, but also can express the beauty of behavior, language and soul of the subject and the object. (Bai Kunyuan) Tea banquet and tea fight, the two words have different meanings and contents, so it can be said that they have nothing to do with each other.A tea banquet is a banquet in which tea is substituted for wine, and it is an act of entertaining guests; tea fighting, also known as a battle of tea, is actually a tea competition, where tea is compared with each other.But in the development history of tea drinking, the two are closely related and causally related. According to textual research, the emergence of tea banquets can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms era (220-280 AD). When Sun Hao was the Marquis of Wucheng in 1999, every time a banquet was held, the guests drank at least seven liters of wine, and Wei Yao, who could not drink, "secretly gave tea as wine". "Jinzhong Xingshu" records: Lu Na, the official minister of the Eastern Jin Dynasty who is famous for his frugality, was serving as the prefect of Wuxing. When General Xie An of the Wei visited him, he only entertained guests with tea and fruit. "Book of Jin" also records: When Huan Wen, the great general who conquered the west, was the shepherd of Yangzhou, every time he had a banquet, "the only thing was to mix tea and fruit with Qidian." It can be seen that tea is used instead of wine, supplemented by candies and cakes, and treats guests for a banquet. In the Jin Dynasty, there was already a prototype, and it was considered to be a kind of pure and unconventional virtue.However, the earliest written record of the word tea banquet was first seen in "Wu Xing Ji" written by Shi Shanqian of the Southern and Northern Dynasties, which mentioned that "every year, the prefects of Wu Xing and Piling prefects hold tea-picking banquets here."In the Tang Dynasty, tea drinking began to prevail. In the eastern and western capitals—Xi’an, Luoyang, as well as Hubei and Sichuan, almost every household drank tea. In many places, tea has reached the level of "drinking like a house". .In addition, tea can refresh one's mind, improve eyesight, eliminate food, and eliminate evil spirits, which made the status of tea increase day by day, and tea banquet became a social fashion at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, Zisun tea from Huzhou and Yangxian tea from Changzhou at that time were listed as tribute tea and entered the palace.Every year, the prefects of the two prefectures will hold the 84th Chinese Tea Classic Tea Banquet at the adjacent Guzhu Mountain Pavilion, inviting some social celebrities to participate and share the taste of tribute tea. One year, Bai Juyi, who was an official in Suzhou at that time, was unable to attend due to illness, so he wrote a poem "Night Wen Jia Changzhou, Cui Huzhou Tea Mountain Pavilion Banquet", which vividly described the grand occasion of the Tea Mountain Tea Banquet , and his regret for not being able to attend the tea banquet in person was beyond words. In the tea banquet, people can not only appreciate the taste of tea, but also appreciate the beauty of the environment and tea sets, which is a material and spiritual enjoyment.This aspect is described in Qian Qi's "Tea Banquet with Zhao Ju", Bao Junhui's "Dongting Tea Banquet", and Li Jiayou's "Autumn Evening Zhaoyin Temple Dongfeng Tea Banquet Sending Brother-in-law Yan Bojun Back to Jiangzhou" and other poems.Especially the "Preface to the Tea Banquet on March 3rd" by Lu Wen, a member of the household department: "March 3rd, the day when Shangsi drinks, and the scholars discuss tea and drink instead. The breeze chases people away, the sun stays bright, lying on the green mist, sitting and climbing flower branches, hearing that the oriole is near the mat, the feathers are not flying, the red stamens are not scattered when they brush the clothes, but I am ordered to drink the fragrant foam, the floating element cup, the color of condensed amber, It’s not intoxicating, but it’s slightly refreshing, even though it’s made of Jade Dew, there’s nothing more to add.” The elegant environment of the tea banquet, the wonderful aftertaste of drinking tea, and the intoxicating expression are all described in detail. In the Song Dynasty, the area of ​​tea production expanded day by day, the method of tea making was innovated, and the way of drinking tea also changed accordingly.In particular, Zhao Ji, Emperor Huizong of Song Dynasty, did a lot of research on tea, and wrote a monograph titled "Grand View Tea Theory", which was divided into more than 20 items, and compared the production, cooking and quality of tea. Detailed narrative.The emperor wrote a monograph on tea, which is the only one in the history of China and foreign countries.But until the Song Dynasty, tea banquets were mostly seen between the upper class and Buddhist monks.In the upper class, if the tea feasts of literati and inkmen are more important than "feelings" and they choose to hold them in places with beautiful scenery, pleasant environment and elegant decoration, then tea banquets in official circles, especially palaces, are usually held in resplendent palaces. The right to act as a kind of favor from the emperor to his ministers.Therefore, the atmosphere is solemn and solemn, and the etiquette is relatively strict.The tea needs to be tribute tea before the Ming Dynasty, the water needs to be clear spring jade liquid, and the utensils use precious porcelain dishes.During the tea banquet, firstly, the servants served the tea, and under the leadership of the emperor, all the ministers toasted and smelled the fragrance, praised the tea and thanked each other, until they congratulated each other, drinking tea throughout.Therefore, the entire tea banquet ceremony can be roughly divided into welcome and send-off, celebration, friendship, viewing and other contents.This scene is described in Cai Jing's "Taiqing Tower Special Banquet", "Baohe Palace Quyan Ji", and "Yanfu Palace Quyan Ji".For example, it is written in "Yanfu Palace Quyan Ji": "In the second year of Xuanhe (1120 A.D.) in December Guisi, the prince Zhizhi and others were summoned to the Yanfu Palace to order the attendant to take the tea set, and pour the soup with his own hands. Whisk, a few hectares of white milk floating on the noodles, like sparse stars and pale moon, Gu Zhuchen said, this is the tea, and I will thank you after drinking it." This is the situation where Song Huizong personally cooked tea and gave a banquet to his officials.Tea banquets in temples are mostly held among monks.At the beginning of the tea banquet, all the people sat in a circle, and the abbot brewed tea according to a certain procedure, and handed it to everyone to drink in turn.Brewing tea, handing over, adding water, drinking, etc. are all carried out according to teaching rituals.After praising the fragrance, taste, and color of tea, discuss morality and self-cultivation, and discuss and describe the scene.In this regard, the most famous one is Jingshan Tea Banquet. Jingshan (in today's Yuhang County, Zhejiang Province) is the northeast peak of Tianmu Mountain. There are towering ancient trees, gurgling streams and overlapping mountains. It is known as "Three Thousand Pavilions and Five Peaks Rock". Famous places of interest can be described as bright mountains, beautiful water, and good tea.The Jingshan Temple in the mountains was first built in the Tang Dynasty. Song Xiaozong Zhao Shen (1163-1189 A.D.) Zeng Yushu bestowed the forehead "Jingshan Xingsheng Wanshou Temple".From the Song Dynasty to the Yuan Dynasty, it has been known as "the crown of Zen forests in the south of the Yangtze River".In ancient times, it was believed that tea can purify the heart, potter emotions, and remove impurities. This is in line with the benevolence, righteousness, and morality advocated by Buddhism. Therefore, tea drinking is very popular.Every spring, monks often hold tea banquets in the temple to sit and talk about Buddhist scriptures.The Jingshan Tea Banquet has a set of elaborate rituals.When the tea banquet is in progress, the abbot and the mage will personally mix the tea to show respect.Afterwards, he ordered his servants to offer them one by one to the banquet.After the monks receive the tea, they first open the lid of the bowl to smell the fragrance, then hold up the bowl to observe the color, and then open their mouths to "tsk, tsk" to taste.Once the tea has passed the three rounds, they will start to comment on the tea and praise the character of the owner.Subsequent topics, of course, are chanting Buddhism and discussing scriptures, talking about stories and friendship. In the first year of Song Lizong Kaiqing (1259 A.D.), Zen master Zhaoming from Nanpu, Japan, came to Jingshan Temple to study and learn scriptures, and worshiped Zen master Xutang as his teacher.Xuecheng resigned as a teacher and returned to China, and brought the Jingshan Tea Banquet ceremony back to Japan.On this basis, the Japanese tea ceremony, which is based on tea, was formed and developed. The Japanese tea ceremony is a strict ritual of drinking tea, which was originally performed in temples. The word "Tao", from the meaning of Buddhism, means to follow the etiquette, righteousness and virtue, and ask people to abide by the correct life path.So, to put it simply, the tea ceremony is a ceremony to educate people on etiquette and moral cultivation by drinking tea.Later, in the era of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Sen Rikyu was appointed as the eminent monk of the Japanese tea ceremony.The basic spirit of Qian Rikyu Tea Ceremony is to advocate peace and harmony, respect the old and protect the young, cleanse the mind, and meditate.Combined with the achievements of the tea ceremony, the tea ceremony was reformed and simplified, and it was popularized among the people, making it a distinctive Japanese traditional culture and art.Today, the tea ceremony has become a means for the Japanese people to cultivate themselves, improve their cultural quality and socialize. The origin and formation of the Japanese tea ceremony can also be found in many Japanese works.According to the records of Japan's "Leiju Mingwu Kao": "Nanpu Zhaoming went to Yuhang Jingshan Temple to pass on his method and returned. It was the fourth year of Wenyong." It also said: "The beginning of the tea ceremony, built the former Chongfu Temple in the Zhengyuan Dynasty and opened the mountain in Nanpu Zhaoming was introduced from Song Dynasty." In "Reading Audiovisual Grass" And "Biography of Eminent Monks of This Dynasty" also mentioned: "Nanpu Zhaoming returned from the Song Dynasty, and brought tea tables and tea utensils to Chongfu Temple." "Research on Tea Technology" recently published in Japan 15 This is also mentioned in the book.It can be seen that the Japanese tea ceremony was gradually formed on the basis of the tea banquet in the Song Dynasty of my country. In modern times, in order to inherit and carry forward my country's excellent tea culture, new content and forms were given to tea feasts.For example, there is a common wedding tea banquet, in which the groom and the bride entertain the guests with tea banquet dishes and tea, food and snacks, and conclude the couple amidst the sound of tea incense and drum music. In addition to the celebration, the bride was able to perform a tea ceremony to add to the fun.In addition, there are festive tea banquets, cultural tea banquets, birthday tea banquets, etc.In recent years, various tea-producing provinces and autonomous regions have held many unique tea feasts.This kind of tea banquet is usually held at the beginning of the new tea, and experts, celebrities, and leaders participate. It imitates the ancient tea banquet ceremony, ordering, viewing, smelling, tasting and discussing tea to discuss the strategy of developing the tea economy.In fact, Leicha popular in western Hunan and western Hubei, Camellia oleifera in northern Guangxi, morning tea in Guangdong, buttered tea in Tibet, as well as refreshments for social occasions are all extensions and developments of ancient tea feasts. The prevalence of tea banquets and the appearance of tribute tea promoted the development of tea tasting art, so tea fighting came into being. Fan Zhongyan's "Tea Fighting Song" said: "Beiyuan presents the emperor, and the heroes of the forest first fight for beauty." Explains the reason for the tea fight and the causal relationship with the tribute tea.Regarding how to fight tea, Tang Geng of the Song Dynasty recorded in "The Story of Fighting Tea" in more detail: "Two or three people gather together, boil water and cook tea, discuss the pros and cons of the tea, and decide the quality." The book also talks about: Dou For tea products, "newness is the most valuable"; for tea fighting water, "living is the most important".New tea and running water complement each other, which is in line with modern scientific principles.In fact, in ancient tea fights, it was often a meeting of three or five bosom friends, in an elegant and clean room, or in a garden with lush flowers and trees, to present their own refined tea products, and everyone took turns to taste and decide the ranking to determine the winner.At that time, famous tea producing areas and temples all had tea fights.Especially in the Southern Song Dynasty, the style of fighting tea had spread to the common people.It can be seen that the formation of tea fighting is the result of the development of the Chinese Tea Classics in Tea Banquet 25, but the rise of tea fighting has further enriched the content of tea banquets. However, tea fighting is nothing more than a tea tasting competition in modern times.In recent years, the famous tea competitions and tea fighting parties held across the country and in various tea-producing provinces and regions are, in fact, the continuation of the ancient tea fighting.During the general competition, each region will bring the tea with the best workmanship and the best quality to the venue to form a jury composed of tea evaluation masters recognized by all parties, code the tea selected by each region, and the members of the jury will first observe the shape, color and luster ; Then open the soup one by one for evaluation, smell the fragrance and taste; then rub the bottom of the leaves with your hands to evaluate the tenderness.In short, the four tea quality components of color, aroma, taste, and shape should be scored on the spot one by one, and finally announced according to high score to low score, and ranked.Some also use a combination of expert evaluation and public evaluation.Both sides of the scoring are calculated on the basis of 50%, and then they are seated according to the total score.Therefore, tea fighting can also be said to be a way of evaluating the quality of tea, which is different from the connotation of tea banquets for spiritual enjoyment.However, for today's people, fighting tea is undoubtedly a beneficial move for creating and discovering famous tea and improving the quality of tea. (Yao Guokun) Teahouses and tea stalls are dedicated to drinking tea.However, teahouses have a fixed place where people drink tea, relax, entertain, or discuss matters, discuss friendship, even inquire about the market, buy and sell transactions, and so on.There is no fixed place for tea stalls, and most of them carry tea loads or push small carts to sell tea, which is seasonal or mobile, and can be often seen at stations, docks, parks, and main roads. It is mainly to quench the thirst of passers-by. convenient.Therefore, compared with tea stalls, teahouses are different in size and tea drinking methods. 35 Teahouse, this kind of appellation is more common in the Yangtze River Basin.Traditionally, Guangdong and Guangxi are called teahouses, and Beijing and Tianjin are called tea pavilions. In addition, there are also titles such as tea shop, tea house, tea house, tea house, tea house, tea room, etc., but they all refer to the same thing.In China, teahouses can be regarded as a special service industry.It has a close relationship with people's life, and it is loved by people because: teahouses are all over the country, whether in towns or villages, and can be seen at any time; teahouses are closely related to people's lives, especially for older people. I like to go to teahouses to inquire and disseminate news, criticize and judge world affairs, leisure and cultural entertainment.Even young people like to go to teahouses to exchange ideas, buy and sell, and connect with each other; going to teahouses is suitable for all ages regardless of professional status, and they can come in and out as they like, and they can get in touch with people from all walks of life. my country's teahouses have a long history.The earliest records about the sale of tea can be seen in "Guangling Elderly Biography": "During the time of Emperor Jin Yuan (317-322 A.D.), there was an old grandmother who brought a pot of tea to the market every time, and the people in the market bought it." According to Zhang Zai's "Poetry on Climbing Chengdu Buildings" (1980s): "Fang tea is the best in the six Qing Dynasty, and its flavor spreads to the nine districts." It is believed that there were already teahouses in my country during the Jin Dynasty.During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the trend of drinking tea and chatting arose. At that time, teahouses appeared for people to drink tea and rest. It can be regarded as the prototype of teahouses.The official record of the teahouse is "Feng Shi Hearing and Seeing Records" written by Feng Yan in the Tang Dynasty: "From Zou, Qi, Cang, Di, and gradually to the cities of Jingyi, more shops were opened, and the tea was sold. Don't ask the customs, just invest money to drink it. The tea comes from the Jianghuai, and the boats and carts come one after another. many".Since the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, there have been shops selling sencha tea in many cities, as long as you put in money, you can pick it up and drink it yourself.This shows that teahouses in Tang Dynasty had developed relatively generally in our country.However, the prosperity and prosperity of teahouses in our country should also be said to have begun in the Song Dynasty. The prosperity of teahouses in the Song Dynasty was especially evident in the capital, which was the center of politics, economy, and culture, as well as the major cities and giant cities where the major transportation routes and goods were distributed.Taking the 45th Chinese tea classics in Bianjing and other cities as an example, according to Meng Yuanlao’s “Tokyo Menghualu” records, in Bianjing during the Northern Song Dynasty, there were row upon row of teahouses in places where the streets and residents were concentrated, such as Panlou East Street and Alley. The teahouse: "Pan Loudong goes to Cross Street, which is called Tushizi, also known as Zhugan City. It is also called Dongshizi Street, which is called Congxing Wrapped Corner. The teahouse lights up every five o'clock, Boyi buys and sells clothes, pictures, garlands and collars. It belongs to Caomen Street, and there are fairy caves and fairy bridges in the Beishanzi Tea House, where ladies often go to drink tea at night." That is to say, in this area, it is open except during the daytime. In addition to the famous teahouses, there is also a teahouse for ladies to drink tea at night, and a morning market teahouse for traders and working people to trade before dawn. This kind of "ghost market" tea house is not only "disappearing at dawn", but also a place to do business while drinking tea.It should be pointed out that most of the teahouses in Bianjing in the Northern Song Dynasty were like the teahouses outside Zhuquemen recorded by Meng Yuanlao: "When you go out of the east wall of Zhuquemen, you are also a family. To Baokangmen Street. Outside the Suzaku Gate in the east of Yujie Street, west to Xinmen Wazi, south of Killing Pig Lane, also a brothel. To the south, there are two teaching workshops in the east and west, and the rest are residents or teahouses, the market in the street, and Yeyou Sheng." To explain this passage more clearly, most of the teahouses in this area are open from morning to night, and only closed at the end of the night market. Regarding the teahouses in the cities of the Song Dynasty, there is such a concentrated description in "Capital Ji Sheng": "The big teahouses hang paintings and calligraphy of celebrities, and only the delicatessen in the capital hang paintings, so they have to wait for a long time for entertainment. Today's teahouses are the same. Winter It also sells lei tea or salt and black bean soup, and also sells plum blossom wine in summer. Most of the tea houses are occupied by the children of the people who gather here to learn musical instruments or sing and so on. , but using this as an excuse, they charge more money for tea. There is also a class where brothers and sisters of prostitutes gather; It's the prostitute's family who set up tables and stools, using tea as an excuse, and the younger generations are willing to spend money, which is called dry tea money." The above is the situation of various teahouses in Lin'an after the Nandu.It can be seen from this that the teahouses in Hangzhou in the Southern Song Dynasty were more ostentatious than those in Bianjing in the Northern Song Dynasty after a large number of "capital people" settled there, and their number and forms were also more numerous.Teahouses are also associated with trade.According to "Mengliang Lu" (AD 1274), in the Southern Song Dynasty, "there were teahouses everywhere" in Hangzhou. Songs are sold. Only porcelain cups and lacquer trays are used for sale, and there are no silver bowls. In most teahouses, there are many children from rich families, and people from various bureaucrats gather." After talking about "tea houses", "renqing tea shops" and "shitou" in "Meng Liang Lu", it also gave a detailed introduction to "Flower Tea House" and several famous tea shops in Hangzhou at that time.It said: "There are three or five tea shops on the street, and there are prostitutes on the upper floors, called 'flower tea houses', such as Nanpan Jiegan and Yu Qilang tea houses in Shixifang, Beizhu Skeleton Tea House in Blessing Square, and Guohua Tea House in Taipingfang. Silang Tea House, the first Qixiang Tea House in the north of Taipingfang, there are many noises in these five places, and it is not a place for gentlemen to stop. There is also Huangjianzui Cuqiu Tea House next door to Zhang Selling Noodles, and Wang Mama’s house in Zhongwa Nei Teahouses, known as Yikugui Teahouse, Dajie Che’er Teahouse, and Jiang Inspection Teahouse, are all places where scholars, husbands, and friends meet.” After the Song Dynasty’s southward journey, people of all colors from the Central Plains came from princes and aristocrats. Down to the three religions and nine streams, they gathered in Lin'an one after another, which not only increased the population of Hangzhou, but also made the composition of the residents more complicated.In the old society, there was a saying that "things of a kind flock together, and people are divided into groups". It can be clearly seen from the above that the owners of Hangzhou teahouses at that time, in response to the needs of the society, respectively opened teahouses mainly for "children of the rich and children of various divisions". High-end teahouses for "gathering with friends"; more elegant teahouses for "gathering of scholar-officials and friends"; and lower-level teahouses for "gathering for slaves" and "gathering of tricksters borrowing labor" "Shitou"; there are even "prostitutes on the upper floor", and a "flower tea house" that combines a brothel selling tea and a teahouse downstairs.In short, in Hangzhou, people of all levels can find teahouses suitable for their status.People can not only enjoy the fun of tea culture in the tea shop, but also use this place to carry out the most extensive social activities. In addition to teahouses, as recorded in "Mengliang Lu", there are some supplementary forms of selling tea in Hangzhou: "The night market is on the street, and there are people who set up floating shops to order tea soup for sightseeing"; I would order tea along the door with a bottle, or on a new moon day, in case of good or bad luck, I would order tea for the neighbors, and spread the word among them. There are also hundreds of people from the first-class street bureaucrats and soldiers, who will order tea and send them to the front shop mats, begging for help. Money and things are called "dirty tea"; monks and Taoists want to make inscriptions, and they first order tea along the door, thinking of it as a step into the body" and so on.这用现在的话来说，南宋杭州除固定的茶店外，还有茶摊和走街穿巷提瓶叫卖的两种“鬻茶者”。茶摊，《梦粱录》只提到于夜市在大街上流动的设在车担上的“浮铺”。有的史籍中还提到白天在人多地方有一种“定点设摊者”。提瓶叫卖的，也有两种情况：这里讲的，是白天在街巷中“沿门点茶”的。还有一种《东京梦华录》说的：“至三更，方有提瓶卖茶者，盖都人公私茶干，夜深方归也”，是专门卖夜茶的提瓶者。把宋朝杭州各种类型的茶馆和茶摊、提瓶叫卖的联结起来，我们就能清楚地看出其时城市普遍存在的密而有序的鬻茶网络；它既反映了宋朝社会嗜茶之风的进一步发展，又反映了当时周全灵活的供茶便捷形式。 至于上引初一月半和红白喜事雇来为邻里“点送”茶水、街司衙兵百同等人的“龊茶”以及僧道头陀的“沿门点茶”等，它们虽也取提瓶“点送”的形式，但与提瓶卖茶已不是同一回事。这后几种情况，或受雇为主人“传话”，或抽捐和乞求施舍，或是一种募缘。不过，它们虽不是鬻茶，但是假借和利用了这种形式，从一定的角度来看，也是其时社会上尚茶和茶叶商品性经济发展的一种反映。 ７５除宋朝都城以外的其他各地城镇，特别是山乡集镇的茶店和鬻茶情况，从大量的史料来看，除规模和讲究程度较开封、杭州差一些外，其数量和普遍程度，并不下于两京。据统计，在南宋洪迈的《夷坚志》中，其所记述的故事，讲及茶肆和提瓶卖茶者，就多达一百余起。如《邓州南市女》中提到的“南草市茶店”，《黄池牛》中提到的宣城“黄池镇”茶肆，一是山区，一讲水乡，但就是这些所谓穷乡僻壤之处，也随处都有茶店和提瓶卖茶者。有的茶店，如邓州南草市茶店，店面还分楼上楼下，足见这一带乡风民情中，嗜茶和茶馆文化已十分兴盛。 关于宋朝茶馆文化的兴盛，还可从其时有些饭店食铺也以茶店为名得到一些旁证。如《东京梦华录》和《梦粱录》中，都提到有“分茶店”、“分茶酒肆”等一类名字，有人误以为这就是茶店；实际分茶店只是一种酒食铺。如《东京梦华录》称，“大凡食店，大者谓之分茶，则有头羹、石髓羹、白肉、胡饼、软羊寄炉面饭之类。吃全茶，饶齑头羹。”我们现在所说的素菜馆，称为“素分茶，如寺院斋食也。”“凡店内卖下酒厨子，谓之'茶饭量酒恃七'。所谓茶饭者，乃味百羹、头羹、新法鹌子羹（注：共５２种山珍海味、飞禽走兽菜名）逐时旋行索唤，不许一味有厥或别呼索变。” 这就是说，宋时以“分茶”来称的酒肆、食铺、饭店，不仅店面较大，而且其规定应俱的菜目，每天不能短缺。宋时大的食店为什么要以“分茶”为名呢？有人解释其时风尚饮茶，茶馆林立，茶客熙来攘往，一些饭店的业主欲与茶肆竞相争而名之。另一种解释是宋时茶已成为日常生活不可或缺的内８５中国茶经容之一，饮食的内容如“茶果”、“茶水”、“茶饭”、“茶食”已成为群众习惯连称的词汇；“茶食”、“茶饭”把茶分去，也就成了“食店”和“饭店”的意思。不管这些说法何者正确，但上述这些，无论从什么角度来说，都是宋代茶叶或茶馆文化较前有较大发展的一种反映。 明代，茶馆又有了进一步的发展，张岱的中写道：“崇祯癸酉，有好事者开茶馆，泉实玉带，茶实兰雪，汤以旋煮，无老汤。器以时涤，无秽器。其火候、汤候亦时有天合之者。”表明当时对茶叶质量、泡茶用水、盛茶器具、煮茶火候都很讲究，以此吸引顾客，使饮茶者流连忘返。与此同时，京城北京卖大碗茶兴起，列入三百六十行中的一个正式行业。 清代，茶馆业更甚，遍及全国大小城镇。尤其是北京，随着清代八旗子弟的入关，他们饱食之余，无所事事，茶馆成了他们消遣时间的好去处。为此，清人杨咪人曾作打油诗一首：“胡不拉儿（指一种鸟）架手头，镶鞋薄底发如油。闲来无事茶棚坐，逢着人儿唤'呀丢'。”特别是在康乾盛世之际，由于“太平父老清闲惯，多在酒楼茶社中”，使得茶馆成了京中上至达官贵人，下及贩夫走卒的重要生活场所。 清时北京茶馆，大致可以分为三类：一是“二荤铺”，大多酒饭兼营，很有些广东茶楼的味道，品茶尝点，喝酒吃饭，实行“一条龙”经营。这些茶馆的馆名，多冠以“天”字，着名的有天福、天禄、天泰、天德等茶馆。这种茶馆，座位宽敞，窗明几净，摆设讲究，用的茶多为香片，盛具是盖茶碗，当属上乘。二是清茶馆，它只卖茶不售食，但多备有“手９５谈”（即象棋）和“笔谈”（指谜语），用弈棋猜谜，招揽茶客。 也有采用上午下棋猜谜，下午听评书大鼓的，因此，在某种意义上说，茶馆还是中国文化艺术的发祥地。三是野茶馆，它们多设在郊外乡镇，或大道两旁，通常在绿树荫下，凉棚高搭，在那里，坐的是高台土凳，盛具是粗砂陶瓷碗，喝的是大口大口的凉茶。这种野茶馆，很有点茶摊的味道。 茶馆在京城如此，其他城市也相继效仿。在广州，清代同治、光绪年间，“二厘馆”茶楼已遍及全城，这种每位茶价仅二厘钱的茶馆深受广东人特别是劳动大众的欢迎。他们常于早晨上工之前，泡上一壶茶，买上两件美点，权作早餐，这种既喝茶又进餐的“一盅两件”的生活习惯与生活方式，可以说是广东人所特有的。至今，在广州的百年老店还有陶陶居等，通常是一日三市，且以早茶为最盛。 在上海，茶馆的兴起始于同治初年，最早开设的有一同天、丽水台等，座楼二三层，窗门四敞，从早到晚，茶客如云。清末，上海又开设了多家广州茶楼式的茶馆，如广东路河南路口的同芳居、怡珍居等；在南京路、西藏路一带先后又开设有大三元、新雅、东雅、易安居、陶陶居等多家，天天高朋满座。当时上海茶馆的茶客除了普通市民外，商人在这里用暗语谈买卖，记者在这里采访新闻，艺人在这里说书卖唱，三教九流，无所不有。 在杭州，茶馆遍布，茶客云集。作者吴敬梓曾在乾隆年间游览西湖，对杭城茶馆的描述着墨颇多，说到马二先生步出钱塘门，过路圣因寺，上苏堤，入净慈，四次到茶馆品茶。在一路上“卖酒的青楼高扬，卖茶的红炭满０６中国茶经炉”。在吴山上，“单是卖茶的就有三十多处”。虽然这是小说，不能据以为史，但清代饮茶之风，茶馆之盛，暴露无遗。 在南京，乾隆年间的着名茶馆有鸿福园、春和园等，它们各占一河之胜，临河设馆。茶馆任客选茶，人们品茶凭栏观水，并供应油酥饼、烧麦、春卷，茶客进食也十分方便。 近代，在中国，东南西北中，无论是城市，还是乡村集镇，几乎都有规模不等的茶馆。特别自５０年代以来，茶馆经过改造，已成了人们饮茶消渴、休息娱乐、问讯叙谊的地方了。特别是在风景旅游城市，茶室林立，随处都可休息喝茶。 以杭州为例，茶室遍布西湖景点，在玉皇山顶、宝石山腰、云栖竹径、平湖秋月、龙井泉旁，乃至吴山上、九溪边、三潭旁，皆有品茗小憩的茶室。这些茶室，多在湖山相映之处，建筑别致，装饰典雅，更胜往昔，成了中外游客的云集会友之地。当今的茶馆，按其经营特色而言，大致可分为三种形式： 一是历史悠久的老茶馆，多保存旧时风格，乡土气息比较浓厚，是普通百姓，特别是老年人的天地；二是６０年代以来新建的茶室，通常采用现代建筑，四周辅以假山、喷泉，室内有鲜花、字画，并有瓜子、糖果出售，适合各阶层人士光顾；三是露天茶室、棋园茶座、音乐茶座等等，坐的是软垫靠椅，围的是玻砖小桌，用的是细瓷或玻璃透明杯，它是人们品茗约会、切磋技艺、交流思想、文娱活动的聚集地，特别受到年轻人的欢迎。 至于深受群众欢迎的流动式茶摊，现今仍随处可见，但古代那种肩挑茶担，穿街走巷式的卖茶摊，至今已很难见到了。 （朱自振、姚国坤） 茶座茶话会通常是指一种备有茶点的社交性集会，它简单朴素，既不像我国古代茶宴那样隆重豪华，也不像日本茶道那样刻板循规，通过饮茶品点，达到畅叙友谊，寄托希望，交流思想，讨论问题，互庆佳节，展望未来的目的，可谓是一种既随和又庄重的集会形式。它顺应中国人聚集一起饮茶聊天的习惯，人们借茶引言，以茶助话，因此广泛地运用于各种社交场合，可谓是近代世界最流行的社交集会形式。 茶话会，这一祖国茶叶文化的奇葩，流传至今，究根追源，可以说已有千年以上历史了。据新版《辞海》注释：茶会的释义之一是“用茶点招待宾客的社会聚会，也叫茶话会”。茶话的释义是：“饮茶清谈。方岳《入局》诗：'茶话略无尘土杂。'今谓有茶点的集会为茶话会。”所以，一般认为茶话会一词是复合历史上茶会和茶话两辞演变而成的。另一种说法认为茶话会是在茶宴、茶会的基础上演变而成的。它是随着时代的进步，摈弃了过去茶宴、茶会那些费时忘业，以及排场奢靡的历史陈迹，保留了品茗叙谊、论事的内容。两种说法虽有差异，但比较接近，认为茶话会的出现，其雏型可追溯到茶会、茶宴和茶话。 据查，茶会最早见诸于唐代钱起的《过长孙宅与朗上人茶会》： 偶与息心侣，忘归才子家。 ２６中国茶经言谈兼藻思，绿茗代榴花。 岸帻看云卷，含毫任景斜。 松乔若逢此，不复醉流霞。 诗中既描写了参加茶会者的神态和感受，又赞美了以茶代酒，茶胜美酒的欢乐之情。 钱起（公元７２２～约７８０年），浙江吴兴人，着名诗人，为天宝十年进士，“大历十才子”之一，官居考功郎中、翰林学士之职。茶宴一词亦可见诸于他的另一首茶诗《与赵莒茶宴》： 竹下忘言对紫茶，全胜羽客醉流霞。 尘心洗尽兴难尽，一树蝉声片影斜。 诗中对茶宴与会者用茶代酒作宴的感慨之情，写得维妙维肖。 至于茶话一词的出现，比前者要晚些，首见于宋代方岳的《入局》诗。这样，如果屈指算来，茶话会这种俭朴崇实的风尚，在我国已有千年以上的历史了。以后，随着我国茶叶的对外传播，茶话会这种以茶为引的社交集会方式，也慢慢扩大到世界各地，逐渐成了各国人民的一种重要社交方式。 在英国，１８世纪时茶话会已盛行于伦敦的一些俱乐部组织。诗人波普〔ＡｌｅｘａｎｄｅｒＰｏｐｅＡ．〕曾为此写过一首赞美诗： 佛坛上银灯发着光，赤色炎焰正烧得辉煌。 银茶壶泻出火一般的汤，中国瓷器里热气如潮漾，３６陡然的充满了雅味芳香，这美妙的茶话会真闹忙。 时至今日，英国的学术界仍习惯于一边品茗尝点，一边探讨学问，进行学术和文化交流。这种做法，称之为“茶杯精神”或“茶壶精神”。 日本是特别崇尚茶道礼仪的国家，但在城市中的商界和社会团体，在众多的社交场合中，以茶话会的方式进行活动的也不乏其例。 东南亚各国更是将茶话会看作是一种高尚、文明的社交活动。 特别是进入２０世纪以来，茶话会已成了全球最时兴的社交集会形式。 在我国，特别是进入８０年代以来，也在积极恢复和创导这一古老的传统风尚，大如商议国家大事，欢迎各国使节，庆祝全国性的重大节日，小如开展文化学术交流，良辰喜庆，开张始业，等等，一般都采用茶话会的形式，特别是新春佳节，许多团体、单位总喜欢用茶话会的形式，“清茶一杯，辞旧迎新”。 茶话会不但质朴无华，而且机动灵活，形式简便。如一个不超过一二十人的茶话会，只要用二三张圆桌，或用方桌拼成“一字形”、“Ｕ字形”进行；如是几十人，甚至上百人的茶话会，可用圆桌分开围坐，或用方桌分层拼成“Ｕ字形”进行；如果是在百人以上，大多是采用分桌围坐的方式进行。在茶话会，上等佳茗当然是不可少的，应事先同茶杯、茶壶一道，分别放在摊有洁净白布的桌子上。还需根据茶话４６中国茶经会的内容与不同季节，在室内四周安放一些盆花，桌上布置一些瓶花，以使人有幽雅、清心之感。另外，有条件的，还应增加一些四时鲜果和精美糕点。 茶话会开始时，通常先由主人致一个简短的欢迎词，随即主宾之间，宾客之间，随意品茗叙谊，谈事抒见。其间，还得配有若干名穿着大方，训练有素，懂得茶礼的服务员为大家倒水和服务。如果是比较大型的茶话会，在进行过程中，适当播放一些低音量、柔和的轻音乐，或在会结束前夕，插上几段余兴节目，诸如相声曲艺之类，增加一些茶话会的欢快气氛，这也是常有的事。 音乐茶座是一种以品茗为引子的文化娱乐场所。其实，这种既品茶又娱乐的文化形式，在我国唐代已有先例，白居易的《夜闻贾常州、崔湖州茶山境会亭欢宴》诗中，就有“遥闻境会茶山夜，珠翠歌钟俱绕身青娥递舞应争妙，紫笋齐尝各斗新”的诗句，记述当时两州（常州、湖州）太守和一些社会名流在茶山（今浙江省长兴县顾渚山）共同一边品尝紫笋茶，一边听歌观舞的欢乐情景。南宋时，杭州、北京等地茶司、茶坊内，有的是聚习学乐或叫唱之地，歌声贯耳；有的鼓乐吹奏，讲评书，说相声。清代，在上海的一些茶楼里，也有艺人说书卖唱。这些做法，很有现代的音乐茶座的味道。不过音乐茶座的正式出现，却是２０世纪以来的事。在我国，特别是在８０年代以来，随着改革开放，以及国内外文化交流的不断加强，在一些大中城市里，音乐茶座应运而生。 首先是各大宾馆，为了满足港澳同胞和外宾夜间文娱活动的需要，兴办了音乐茶座。接着，一些文娱场所也相继仿效。它５６受到了广大群众，特别是年轻人的喜爱。短短数年，如今音乐茶座已几乎遍及大小城镇，成了人民文化生活的一个重要组成部分。 音乐茶座一般都选择在幽雅的场所，并配以柔和多彩的灯光，以饮茶品点，欣赏文艺为内容，给人以美好的享受，精神的满足。 音乐茶座的形式多样，内容丰富。人们可以品茶自娱，也可以约上二三知己，在音乐的伴奏下，翩翩起舞；还可以在啜饮纳凉的同时，谈心和进行各种交流。总之，在音乐茶座里，因为有文明饮料茶为引子，有歌声和乐曲相陪伴，在生活节奏日益加快的今天，人们忙里偷闲，松弛身心，养精蓄锐，使得音乐茶座更富魅力了。 至于近年来新出现的市场茶座、技术茶座等等，可以说是音乐茶座的派生物。今后，随着国民经济的不断发展，文化生活的不断提高，茶座的形式将更趋于多样化，内容也将更加丰富。 (Yao Guokun)