Chapter 2 Drinking tea-1

China has the earliest history of drinking tea, so it knows the true fun of drinking tea best. "When guests come, drink a cup of tea, which can enhance friendship; when the mouth is dry, drink a cup of tea, it can moisten the throat; when tired, drink a cup of tea, it can relax the muscles; when you are free, drink a cup of tea, it can make the ears and nose fragrant ; When you are upset, drink a cup of tea to calm your mind; when you are stagnant, drink a cup of tea to help you digest your food and get rid of greasy." "Treating guests with tea" and "replacing wine with tea" have always been the traditional customs of the Chinese people.

"There are different winds for thousands of miles, and different customs for hundreds of miles."my country is a multi-ethnic country. Due to the different geographical environments, historical cultures and living customs of different brothers and nationalities, tea drinking customs also have their own advantages and disadvantages, and there are various methods. However, drinking tea is regarded as a The means of cultivating sexual fitness and the bond of promoting interpersonal relationships are common in this regard. Tea drinking originated in my country, and with its extraordinary vitality, it has been developed, spread and popularized all over the world.

The Book of Tea by Lu Yu of the Tang Dynasty said: "Tea as a drink originated from Shennong and was heard from Duke Zhou of Lu." After discovering tea and its medicinal value, it gradually evolved from medicinal use to a daily drink. Tea not only satisfies the physiological, healthy, and bodybuilding needs of the human body, but also becomes a medium for people to socialize and a beautiful enjoyment for self-cultivation and moral cultivation. my country has always been very particular about selecting tea, fetching water, preparing utensils, condiments, cooking tea, serving tea, and tasting methods. As a result, a rich and colorful tea drinking custom and tea tasting skills have gradually formed a tea culture system that appeals to both refined and popular tastes.

As early as in primitive society, tea has entered human life.The discovery of ancient tea is due to its detoxification and healing effect on the human body, which has attracted people's attention and has been used as a medicine.The medicinal use of tea begins with the pleasant feeling of fragrance, clear mouth and full of astringency when human beings directly chew the fresh branches and leaves of the tea tree and draw the tea juice.Over time, gradually, chewing tea has become a hobby of people.Therefore, when tracing the history of the development and spread of tea drinking customs, the stage of chewing tea should be said to be the prelude to drinking tea.

With the evolution of human life, people have gradually changed the habit of chewing tea leaves, and then put the tea leaves in clay pots and add water to boil or roast them.Although this kind of tea is bitter, it has a strong taste, intoxicating and aftertaste. Compared with the early chewing tea, its flavor and efficacy are slightly better. Over time, people naturally developed the habit of boiling and drinking.This is the beginning of tea as a beverage. In the Zhou Dynasty more than 3,000 years ago, in the origin of tea in southwestern my country, tea was not only used for medicine, food, and drinking, but also regarded as precious tributes, gifts, and sacrifices by the upper class. The uses of tea began to diversify. change.

2 Chinese Tea Classics "The people of Qin took Shu to learn about tea drinking." The Bashu area is the area where tea drinking was spread earlier in my country.After Qin "takes Shu", it promoted the exchange of social economy and cultural life, and also promoted the eastward extension of tea drinking knowledge and customs. During the Western Han Dynasty, the trend of drinking tea rose.Tea was already an elegant pastime in courts and official households.In Wang Bao's "Children's Testament", the sentence "cooking tea with all utensils" vividly reflects the scene that tea is enjoyed by nobles, gentry and scholar-officials in society.

During the Three Kingdoms period, tea admiration was further developed, and the custom of using tea instead of wine appeared, and people began to pay attention to the cooking method of tea.In Zhang Yi's "Guang Ya", there is the earliest record of my country's exploration of tea cooking.Seasonings are added to the tea during the brewing process, resulting in a fragrant and refined flavor, which increases the appeal of the tea.This is another extension of tea as a drink. In the Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, drinking tea became a common practice.Tea has gradually become a common drink for people from the original precious luxury.It is common practice to drink tea, "compete to drink at the table", "serve tea to guests", meet friends with tea, and entertain guests with tea. The virtue of self-cultivation.

In the Tang Dynasty, tea affairs flourished, and tea drinking became popular.The outstanding contribution of Lu Yu, the tea sage, promoted the popularization of tea drinking and the improvement of tea drinking art, ushering in the golden age of "drinking everywhere" and "throwing money for drinking".Just like "Fengshi's Wenjianji" said: "The ancients also drank tea ears, but they are not as addicted as people are drowning today. The day and night are exhausted, and it has almost become a custom. It started in the middle of the country and spread outside the Great Wall." one of cultural life.

Princess Wencheng's marriage to Tibet brought the trend of tea drinking. Tea and Buddhism were further integrated, preaching and propagating the Dharma, and at the same time it became an unprecedented tea event in Tibetan lamaseries. Tea flourished in Tang Dynasty and flourished in Song Dynasty.In the Song Dynasty, the wind of drinking tea was very popular, just as Li Gou said: "Gentlemen and villains do not like it, and rich and poor do not use it." chess, calligraphy, painting, tobacco, wine and tea".The rise of "tea fighting", "tea drinking" and teahouse culture in the society is known as "the Qing Dynasty of the prosperous age".At the same time, boiling tea began to evolve into brewing tea.

From the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties to the present, tea drinking has been popular for a long time.Not only the area and population of tea drinking are expanding day by day, but also the methods of cooking and tasting tea are being perfected day by day. With the increasing variety of tea products and the increasing refinement of tea tasting, the method of cooking tea has been gradually changed from boiling and decocting to boiling water.Rinse the tea with boiling water, and then sip it slowly. The pure and pleasant tea fragrance, the sweet and mellow tea taste, and the clear and attractive tea soup make people fully appreciate the true essence of tea's natural color, fragrance and character.

Celebrities, literati, monks, Taoists and Buddhists in the past dynasties cooked springs and tea, sipped tea and discussed articles, sang poems and painted paintings, and took pride in advocating tea, which played a role in fueling the spread and development of tea drinking customs. In the article "Preface to the Tea Banquet on March 3rd", Lu Wen of the Tang Dynasty highly praised tea, saying: "Drink the fragrant foam, float the cup, the color is amber, not intoxicating, slightly clear and thoughtful, even though the jade dew is immortal There is no need to add pulp." The tea man Lu Tong’s poem "Xie Meng Advises Sending New Tea" gives a very vivid summary and description of the physiological and health effects of tea on the human body, and believes that after drinking tea, people can enter the wonderful world of "connecting with immortals". situation. Gu Yuanqing of the Ming Dynasty pointed out in "Tea Spectrum": "Drinking real tea can quench thirst, digest food, eliminate diseases, reduce sleep, improve water channels, improve eyesight, benefit thinking, eliminate annoyance, and get rid of greasy. People cannot live without tea for a day. "It profoundly reveals the efficacy and charm of tea on the human body, as well as the inseparable relationship between tea and people's daily life. Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty was a connoisseur of tea, and he was addicted to tea.He once said: "You can't live without tea for a day." This sentence expresses the pivotal position of tea in the life of the royal family. 4 Chinese tea classics. Mr. Lu Xun, a great writer in modern times, has unique skills and insights on tea tasting. He believes that tea drinking is a science, and only those who have kung fu and "tea sense" can really taste and enjoy the noble style and connotation of tea. The famous female writer Han Suyin said when talking about drinking tea: "I love to drink tea, and tea is my daily essential drink. Like all Chinese people, I can't do without it almost every moment from morning to night. Tea." "If I had to write a tribute to tea, I would say that tea is the unique and truly civilized beverage, the embodiment of politeness and spiritual purity; You can’t feel life. One cannot live without food, but I especially love drinking tea.” Drinking tea is a wonderful spiritual enjoyment and material enjoyment for human beings.With the development of social civilization and tea drinking culture, the wind of drinking tea has penetrated into every field, level, corner and every aspect of life in society.Tea has become the national drink of the Chinese nation. Tea, with its unique charm, has also formed an indissoluble bond with all nations in the world. my country's tea has a long history of spreading overseas as a beverage. As early as the Western Han Dynasty, tea drinking in my country had spread to Central Asia, West Asia and South Asia through various channels, and gradually extended and developed. After the Sui and Tang Dynasties, there were frequent exchanges between Chinese and Japanese Buddhism, which formed the "tea Zen one taste", tea drinking philosophy and Zen culture, and evolved from it the sacred etiquette of tea cooking and tea tasting with "harmony, respect, purity and silence" as the core. After the 16th century, the tea drinking style in my country aroused the strong interest of Westerners. In the 17th century, after the tea-loving Portuguese Princess Catherine married King Charles II, she became Britain's first tea-drinking queen.Since then, tea drinking has become popular in Britain, and spread to Europe, America, Australia, and even Northwest Africa, Middle East Africa. 5. The mysterious effect of tea is regarded by foreign people as a panacea for prolonging life, a rare and noble luxury, and it has become a drink that people pursue and yearn for.Make the wind of drinking tea step into the wonderful state of "Fang tea crowns the six clears, and the flavor spreads to the nine districts".So far, tea drinking has become popular all over the world, and has become the most affordable, healthy and popular civilized drink dedicated to more than 2 billion people in more than 160 countries and regions in the world. Looking at the evolution of tea drinking customs in China and abroad, although there are various forms, if we take tea and condiments and tea drinking environmental conditions as the basic point, the current tea drinking habits can be divided into the following three types: The first is to emphasize the elegant and pleasant tea drinking habits: tea leaves are brewed with boiled water, which is natural, clean and tasteful, seeking the inherent taste of tea, focusing on the artistic conception, which is in line with the ancient "quiet" traditional thought of our country. Kiss, this is the characteristic of clear tea. Green tea from the south of my country, jasmine tea from the north, Pu'er tea from the southwest, oolong tea from Fujian and Guangdong, and steamed green tea from Japan are all included in the list of clear drinks. The second is to emphasize the habit of drinking tea with the flavor of condiments: it is characterized by adding various condiments when cooking tea.Such as milk black tea, lemon black tea, multi-flavor tea, spice tea in Europe and the United States, mint green tea in Northwest Africa, butter tea, salt tea in the border areas of my country, oil tea of ​​the Dong nationality, Leicha tea of ​​the Tujia nationality, and kombucha fungus. There is a special flavor of condiments. The third is the habit of drinking tea that emphasizes multiple enjoyments: this refers to the fact that in addition to tasting the charm of tea, tea drinkers also drink tea with condiments, delicious food, accompanied by singing and dancing, music, opera, calligraphy and painting. Waiting is a kind of multi-level and multi-form beautiful enjoyment.For example, Beijing's "Lao She Teahouse", named after the famous Chinese writer Lao She and built according to the pattern of his masterpiece, gathers all kinds of famous tea, flavored food, traditional art, famous calligraphy and painting in one place, meaningful and far-reaching, reflecting leisure, elegance and simplicity. , Essence 6 The tea drinking culture of the Chinese Tea Classics. With the change of social life in the world and the acceleration of people's life rhythm, the habit of drinking tea is gestating a new development trend.For example, in recent years, instant tea, iced tea, liquid tea and various teabags, which are characterized by "simple" and "fast", have emerged as the times require.However, inheriting the traditional and high-level tea-tasting customs, such as solemn and solemn tea ceremony, tea ceremony, tea ceremony, and tea ceremony, etc., are also remembered and carried forward by people, showing that the colorful, eclectic, rich in content, beautiful and full of life vitality world of tea drinking. (Kong Xianle) my country is a country with ancient civilization and a country of etiquette and righteousness. It attaches great importance to the etiquette between people. Whenever guests come, the etiquette of making tea and serving tea is indispensable. In Song Dynasty, Du Lei’s poem “The guests come to drink tea on a cold night, the bamboo stove boils and the fire becomes red”, and Zheng Qingzhi in the Qing Dynasty’s poem “A glass of spring dew stays for a while, and the breeze under the armpit makes me feel like a fairy” all show that the Chinese people have been hospitable since ancient times. Therefore, not only guests come to serve tea, but also to retain guests with tea. Tea has the four beauties of "color, aroma, taste, and shape", especially the noble inner beauty, public morality and righteousness, and "pure sentiment". Let the east, west, north and south wind." The traditional virtues of Chinese people's hospitality and affection have been handed down from ancient times to the present.Regardless of rich or poor households, the upper class or common people, or social activities or idle households, tea is always used as a gift.Especially during the Spring Festival, when the guests come, the host will always make a bowl of tea first, and then serve candy, pastries, sweets, etc., drink fragrant tea, and wish each other a happy new year and a sweet year.Pay attention to people, 7 put two green olives in the tea bowl, called "Yuanbao tea", to bring good luck in the new year.Our country has a vast territory, from Hainan to Xing'an Mountains, or from the coast of the East China Sea to the Tibetan Plateau, when there are guests at home, tea is an essential treat.If you go to the south of the Yangtze River, the host will make a cup of "Longjing tea", "Biluochun" or delicate Maojian green tea with high flavor and mellow, clear soup and green leaves; , the host will send a small pot of fragrant and mellow precious oolong tea or Pu'er tea.Brothers and nationalities in the frontier and mountainous areas of our country are more sincere in hospitality and pay attention to national etiquette.If you are a guest in a yurt, the host will go out with the family to greet you, give up the best berth, and offer delicious milk tea; When presenting milk tea, please eat venison and deer milk; when visiting a Blang village, the host will treat them with famous local products - clear tea, peanuts, and roasted sweet potatoes; The Dongxiang people respect the guests with a bowl of tea; in the Miao or Dong cottages in the adjacent areas of Hunan and Guangxi, the host will let the guests taste the rare "oil tea". Inviting guests to drink tea is not just about brewing a cup of tea and serving it in front of the guests. It should be done: the quality of the tea is good, the water for brewing the tea is of good quality, the tea set is of good quality, the tea is prepared well, and the hospitality is good. Good quality tea: There are many kinds of tea in our country, each with its own characteristics.Therefore, it does not mean that there must be a variety of high-end famous teas, but mainly refers to the fact that the tea leaves must be pure and clean, dry and fragrant, and brewed for drinking, the taste is mellow and refreshing.At the same time, it is necessary to prevent foreign matter or strange smell in the tea, and there should be no inclusions in the tea.In addition, damp tea cannot be used to entertain guests, otherwise it will be impolite.Our country has a vast territory, and the customs of drinking tea vary from place to place, and the hobbies of tea are also often different. Some like to drink black tea, because black tea is mellow and sweet, and has a warm and soft atmosphere; The soup is light green in color and has a fresh and pleasant aroma; some people like to drink scented tea, because it is rich and fragrant, with both tea and flower fragrance; some like oolong tea or other teas, so it should be adjusted according to individual conditions.Therefore, if a guest is an elderly person in North China or Northeast China, it is better to make a cup of high-quality jasmine tea than a cup of high-grade Longjing tea; if a guest is a young woman in the south, if you are a young woman in the south, it is better to make a cup of alpine cloud tea. Maojian with an elegant tea flavor; if the visitor likes to drink strong tea, you may wish to add more tea and mix with a small amount of tea powder, so that the tea soup is very strong and durable, and the visitor will feel very satisfied. Good water quality for brewing tea: Good tea must be brewed with good water to fully display the mellowness and sweetness of the tea.The color, fragrance and taste of the brewed tea are also different with different water quality.If you make tea with water with high sulfur content, the tea will taste bitter, if it contains a lot of sodium, it will taste salty, if it contains a lot of calcium, it will taste astringent, and if it contains a lot of iron, the tea soup will turn black. This is mainly because these substances interact with caffeine and tea polyphenols The combination of other ingredients will make the color of the tea soup not correct, the fragrance will be reduced, and even damaged.For example, the people of Tianjin used to drink the bitter and salty water of the Haihe River for a long time. No matter how strong the aroma of the tea was, it could not cover the unpleasant salty taste. This kind of tea did not quench their thirst, and the more they drank it, the thirstier they became. Today, the sweet water of the Luan River flows into the hearts of the people of Tianjin through the Shili Tunnel and the Baili Open Canal. People in Tianjin buy Longjing tea, green tea and scented tea one after another, toasting each other to celebrate the improvement of drinking water conditions. When it comes to the quality of tea-making water, mountain springs are beautiful, but why is the water in rivers not good?A poem by Bai Juyi in the Tang Dynasty: "Shu tea is sent but it is new, and Weishui boils it to feel the treasure." Yang Wanli's poem in the Song Dynasty said: "The rivers and lakes are old life, so why not stay at home, draw water from the Songjiang Bridge, and hang the rainbow Try new tea at the kiosk." It shows that some river water is also good.Besides, the well water is not necessarily bad, such as Lu You's poem in Song Dynasty: "The village girl sells autumn tea, and the tea is fried in the well", and Hong Xiwen's poem in Yuan Dynasty: "The bitter tea in Puzhong is native, and the local flavor is fried in well water". It shows that well water is not bad.There is also tea made with snow water, which is even more unique in flavor. For example, in the description 9, Miaoyu of Quicuian made tea with snow water of plum blossoms swept last year, which is a prominent example. Good quality tea sets: clean and delicious tea, paired with elegant and high-quality tea sets, will bring out the liquid color of the tea soup more and maintain a strong tea fragrance, and the refined tea set itself is a kind of art, which can be used for tea drinking. It can also make people enjoy a kind of beauty and add infinite fun to drinking tea. The tea sets commonly used in contemporary times are mainly made of porcelain and glass, followed by pottery and enamel.Tea sets of various textures have their own characteristics, and can be flexibly selected according to the types of tea drinking, habits and hobbies in various places. Make tea well: pay attention to tea preparation, that is, brewing skills, which is an important factor for obtaining high-quality tea soup.Making tea soup is not an easy task.The ancients in our country were very particular about the method of making tea. There is such a strange story in "Shu Yi Ji", which says that the intellectual product monk in the Tang Dynasty was fond of drinking tea, and Lu Yu was an expert at frying tea. Leaving the temple for a trip, Zhiji no longer drinks tea.Once, Emperor Daizong learned of this situation and wanted to try the monk's tea evaluation skills. He sent the best tea maker in the palace to make tea. Unexpectedly, the monk put down the tea bowl as soon as he touched his lips.The emperor immediately summoned Lu Yu to the palace to make tea. The monk Zhiji held the bowl of tea, beaming with joy, while drinking the tea, he praised: "This bowl of tea really looks like Lu Yu cooked it himself!" The emperor was convinced. Modern tea leaves are mostly leaf tea. Although the brewing method is not as difficult as in ancient times, different tea sets, water temperature and water volume must be used for different tea types and grades of tea, otherwise the ingredients of the extracts in the tea soup will be different, and the flavor of the tea will also be different. Huge difference.To obtain an ideal tea soup, it is necessary to fully extract the water-soluble active ingredients in the tea leaves, and to make the main components that affect the aroma of the tea soup in harmony with each other. The water temperature and water consumption are very important. The boiling degree and temperature of the water for making tea depends on the quality of the water and the level of tea grade 01 Chinese tea classics. Just boil the water until it just starts to boil, and there is no need to over boil.If the water quality is poor, for the sake of sanitation, it can be boiled for a while to fully kill all kinds of harmful bacteria and deposit harmful substances to ensure human health.It should be mentioned here that the soup used to make tea by the ancients and the boiled water used to make tea today are two completely different concepts and should not be confused with each other. All are required. Tea, especially green tea, is rich in vitamin C. If the tea is made with very boiling water, the vitamin C in the tea will be greatly destroyed. , instead of pursuing the vitamins in tea, at the same time, the higher the temperature of the water for making tea, the better the aroma in the tea soup can be brought out. In order to get the best of both worlds, the water temperature of tender high-grade green tea can be controlled at about 80°C, and the water temperature of young and tender end tea can be lower, so as to not only maintain the vitamins in the tea, but also leach the effective ingredients of the tea without damage the taste of the tea. If all kinds of tea are available, when a visitor comes, you can ask for advice and choose the best tea set that suits the taste of the visitor.If you have expensive green tea, use a glass cup without a lid; if you have high-grade red, green, scented tea, use a porcelain cup with a lid; if you have oolong tea, use a small pot or cup; if you only have low-grade rough tea or tea powder , then it is best to use a teapot, use a teapot to make tea, only smell the tea aroma, taste the tea, but not see the shape of the tea, you can get a more satisfactory effect.For example, thick branches and large leaves of tea leaves are horizontal in the cup, or burnt black, yellow and green tea powder floats in the cup noodles, it will be a disastrous thing for guests to see.This is the so-called "fine tea is eaten coarsely, coarse tea is eaten carefully".Our country has the habit of "shallow tea full of wine". To make tea with a tea cup, tea cup or tea bowl, or to pour tea into a teacup or teacup, the soup should be shallow, generally about two-thirds to three-quarters of the container, Such as filling a teacup, it not only scalds the mouth, but also has the meaning of chasing guests away. For visitors, the length of stay and the number of people should also be considered.Some come to 11 guests and stay for a short time. They often get up after drinking a sip or two of tea. The host must brew a cup of high-quality tea at a very fast speed.The method is: the amount of tea should be lowered, and the temperature of the boiling water should be higher. Make a tea head first, and then add warm water after a while, so that the concentration and temperature of the tea soup are more suitable, and you can enjoy a good drink.If there are many visitors and the time is short, you can use a large teapot with appropriate amount of lower leaves, use boiling water to brew the tea head, add warm water after a while, one cup per person, so that there is no waste and the visitors can quickly drink a few sips. When guests come to offer tea, it is also necessary to properly blend the tea leaves. For example, adding three or five buds to a cup of high-grade and medium-grade green tea will greatly increase the value of the cup of tea; , mixed with a small amount of high-quality tea powder, will greatly improve the rich taste of tea soup. Serve tea with good manners: it means that the host should pay attention to civility and courtesy when treating guests, so as to give people a sense of comfort and happiness.Therefore, the tea set must be washed clean, and there should be no tea juice or tea stains on the inner and outer edges of the teacup.You can't grab the tea with your hands, but use a small measuring device made of copper or bamboo to scoop the tea into a cup or pot.After boiling water is brewed in a teacup or teapot, there is often a layer of foam floating on it, which should be removed in time to keep the tea soup clean.Regardless of handle or handleless teacups and teacups, a tray should be added below.The person who serves the tea should be gentle and elegant, with a pleasant smile, and be amiable. Hold the tray with both hands, put it in front of the chest, go to the guests, bow and say in a low voice: "Please serve the tea." Passing the saucer is a sign of respect for each other when guests come to offer tea.For the guests, it feels cordial, the fragrance is in the mouth, and the joy is in the heart.For example, if the tea served by the tea server, the rim of the bowl is full of dirt, the big leaves are floating on the cup noodles, and the cup is squeezed by hand, without even humming the word "please", it is silently and sloppily placed in front of the guests, making the guests feel uncomfortable. I don't have a "taste" in my heart, and maybe I don't even want to take half a sip of tea. When drinking tea with the guests, the host should pay attention to the remaining amount of tea in the guests’ cups and pots. Generally, teacups are used to make tea. If half of the tea has been drunk, boiled water should be added. Be consistent and keep the water temperature right.If you use a teapot to make tea, you should fill up the pot with boiling water in good time. When drinking tea, it can also be properly served with tea, candies, dishes, etc., to achieve the effect of adjusting taste and snacks. When drinking tea as a guest, one should sip slowly and carefully, talk while drinking, and not dance or binge drink. This is also a requirement of civilized tea drinking.Visitors from Shantou, Guangdong, come to offer tea, and the way of drinking tea is very particular. The tea set is very small, usually a small pot and a small cup.If you are a tea drinking connoisseur, pick up a small cup, sip slowly with your lips and tip of your tongue, and praise the delicious tea repeatedly, the host will refill your tea frequently.If you are a layman, if you drank a toast, some hosts will quickly change the big pot and big cup, make some second-class tea, and let you "drink". Hospitality should be sincere and generous, treat each other as equals, and don't be snobbish.There is such a story: In the Song Dynasty, when Su Dongpo first came to Hangzhou as an official, he went to a certain temple to play. The abbot didn’t know the details, so he treated him as an ordinary person, said: "Sit", and called the little novice: "tea", and the little monk brought a cup of tea into the pot. Ordinary tea was poured out; after a brief exchange of greetings, the abbot felt that the visitor had a good conversation, so he changed his words and said, "Please sit down", and called the little novice: "Make tea", the little monk made a bowl of tea and served it; at the end When the abbot knew that the visitor was Su Shi, a famous scholar, he couldn't help himself. He stood up and shouted, "Please sit down," and the little novice, "Make some tea." At the time of parting, the abbot begged for words to commemorate, and Su Xueshi wrote a couplet: The first couplet is: "Sit, please sit, please sit up"; the second couplet is: "Tea, make tea, make good tea." The abbot looked at it, his face flushed, he couldn't laugh or cry. (Hu Ping) The tea drinking methods of the Han nationality can be roughly divided into tea tasting, drinking tea and eating tea, but the ancients focused on "tasting" when drinking tea; modern tea drinking is mostly "drinking"; as for "eating", there are few. Not wide.Generally speaking, the emphasis is on artistic conception, with the purpose of distinguishing the aroma and taste of tea and appreciating the soup and posture of tea, and those who entertain themselves are called "tasting".Anyone who tastes tea has to sip it slowly, "Three sips will know the true taste, and three sips will make you fall in love."If the purpose is to cool and quench thirst, those who drink quickly from a large bowl; or those who keep brewing, even drinking and swallowing, are called "drinking".If you chew and swallow tea and water together, it is of course "eating".In Cao Xueqin's forty-first chapter "Jia Baoyu Tasting Tea at Quicui Temple", Miaoyu borrowed a popular saying at that time: "One cup is a taste, two cups is a thirst-quenching fool, and three cups is a donkey drink." This remark can be said to be right in one sentence, and it vividly tells the method of drinking tea.However, although the Han people drink tea in different ways, most of them admire clear drinking, thinking that clear tea can best maintain the "purity" of tea and appreciate the "true color" of tea. Sugar, milk, mint, lemon and other beverages and foods are added to the tea soup to drink the original flavor of pure tea.The main tea products are green tea, scented tea, oolong tea, white tea and so on.The most representative ways of drinking are sipping oolong, tasting Longjing, eating morning tea and drinking big bowls of tea. Sipping Oolong Oolong tea is a special famous tea that is rich in Fujian, Taiwan, Guangdong and other provinces in China.Because oolong tea adopts a unique harvesting process, it has excellent quality, unique flavor, exquisite tea making technology and unique drinking method.Small cups and small pots are used for tea sets. The color is simple and clear, and it is still old-fashioned. It is called "four treasures for cooking tea": the first is the jade book, which is a kettle, mostly flat ocher brown, which looks simple and elegant. The second is the stove used to light charcoal, which is petite and exquisite, quite unique, because it is the most produced in Shantou, Guangdong, so it is called "Shantou stove"; the third is the Mengchen jar, which was originally a teapot with a large size. One is like a cantaloupe, and the smaller one is Ruozaoju, especially the Jiangsu Yixing Zisha teapot; the fourth is Ruochen Ou, which is a miniature teacup that can only hold about 4ml of tea soup and is only half the size of a ping-pong ball.Usually, with the Mengchen jar as the center, three or four Ruochen ou are arranged in a semicircle and placed flat on an oval or round tea tray, and the pot, cup, and tray are of the same size and are of the same color. Celadon is really a work of art.Therefore, many aristocratic families who drink oolong tea have several or even dozens of sets of oolong tea sets of different colors in their homes, and they can be regarded as tea set collectors.Once the distinguished guests enter the door, enjoying a pot of tea is wonderful, making people feel both material and spiritual. When sipping oolong tea, guests often sit around and the host personally handles the affairs. First, wash the tea set with clean water and light the charcoal in the stove.Add water into the pot and put it on the stove to boil.After the water boils, pour boiling water over the teapot and cups.Then put the oolong tea into the teapot, and the amount of tea used is about one-third to one-half of the volume of the teapot.Then pour boiling hot water into the teapot to make tea, until the boiling water overflows the spout, then use the hand-held pot lid to scrape off the foam on the water surface of the spout, and then put the teapot on the plate.Then wet the whole teapot with boiling water to keep the temperature of the tea in the pot.At the same time, take out the teacup, put your middle finger on the foot of the cup, press the edge of the cup with your thumb, put the cup on the tea tray and scald the cup with boiling water, or put the cup in a large cup of boiling water and turn it to heat it.Then put the small cups next to each other, flat on the tea tray, and pour the tea soup from the teapot into the teacups.After the tea is poured, the host, with a smile on his face, personally serves the tea to the guests respectfully with both hands, while the guests nod their heads to show their thanks, and then stand up to receive the tea, which is called serving tea.Afterwards, the drinker presses the rim of the cup with his thumb and forefinger while it is still hot, holds the foot of the cup with his middle finger, raises the cup and puts the tea into the nose, smells its fragrance, and feels the fragrance; Taste, suddenly feel tongue has lingering sweetness.Once the tea soup enters the throat, there will be a "tsk, tsk" sound in the mouth, and the aftertaste can be discerned, but the nose and mouth will be fragrant, moistening the throat and promoting body fluid.Generally, drinking 3-4 cups of oolong tea is less than 20 milliliters of water. Therefore, sipping oolong tea in a small cup is not so much drinking tea to quench your thirst, as it is an appreciation of art and spiritual enjoyment.Yuan Mei (1716-1798), a poet of the Qing Dynasty, once vividly described the taste of sipping oolong tea in a small cup: "The cup is as small as a walnut, and the pot is as small as a citron. Smell its fragrance first, then try its taste, chew it slowly and considerately, it is really fragrant, with a lingering sweetness on the tongue. After one cup, try another cup or two, it will make you relieve dryness, calm your mind, and make you feel happy." Oolong tea soup is thick, With endless aftertaste and unique tea sets that match oolong tea, there is a saying in the tea world of "sipping oolong".This kind of "sipping" method of savoring and discovering slowly is really a kind of "self-seeking". Oolong tea has always been famous for its strong aroma, mellow taste, and long-lasting fragrance in the mouth. In the past, Wuyi rock tea was especially praised as the most expensive, but now Anxi Tieguanyin and Wuyi rock tea are juxtaposed, and they are both regarded as two of China's oolong teas. "Pearl". Tasting Longjing Longjing tea has always been known for its "green color, high aroma, sweet taste, and beautiful shape" and "four uniqueness". It is not so much a drink as an art treasure. rare".The best place to taste Longjing tea is naturally the Longjing Temple in Longjing Village, the authentic place where Longjing tea is produced.The Longjing tea room there provides people with a wonderful tea tasting place: overlooking the clouds, clouds, wind, and fog in the sky, the tea, forests, mountains, and stones on the ground, the green forest, the moist and fragrant air, Being in the quiet and colorful land, one feels free from the noise and troubles of the world, and feels refreshed and at ease.The Longjing spring beside the tea room is as clear as a mirror. It is said that it is connected with the sea and is the place where the dragon lives.In fact, this spring is just located in the limestone 61 fault zone of the Chinese tea classics, and the water is collected into a pool, so the water quality is clear, the taste is sweet, and the nutrition is rich. "Take Longjing tea and cook Longjing water" so that "tea classics and water taste both beautiful", which is in line with modern scientific principles.Famous tea with Jiaquan, "Longjing tea", can really taste the special flavor of Longjing.Song Mei Yaochen said in a poem: "The soup is tender and the water is clear and the flowers are not scattered, and the taste is sweet and refreshing."When people hold a cup of longjing tea with mist and fragrance, they should not rush to drink tea. First of all, they should slowly lift up the clear and transparent glass or white-bottomed porcelain cup, and look closely at the green buds and clear water in the cup. One flag (leaf) and one gun (bud) stand in clusters, like a crack in a spring orchid, like a tender bamboo competing for the sun. Afterwards, put the cup into the nose and take a deep breath of the tender fragrance of Longjing tea, which makes people feel refreshed and refreshed.After watching and smelling, then drink slowly and savor carefully, the fragrance, sweetness and freshness emerge as the times require.Just as Lu Ciyun of the Qing Dynasty said: Longjing tea is genuine, sweet and fragrant like orchids, quiet but not bitter. "Sip it indifferently, it seems tasteless. After drinking, I feel a kind of Taihe Qi, which is lost between the teeth and cheeks, which is tasteless." taste, and even taste."No wonder some poets sighed and said: "So the rivers and mountains can go back, poets don't want to be tea farmers." Eating morning tea is more common in large and medium-sized cities in my country, especially in Guangzhou. People like to sit in teahouses and eat morning tea, so there are many teahouses in Yangcheng.As early as the Tongzhi and Guangxu years of the Qing Dynasty, the "Erli Pavilion" (that is, the price of tea per customer) teahouses had been widespread in Guangzhou.Most of the tea drinkers who go to the "Erli Pavilion" are working people. Before going to work in the morning, they make a pot of tea in the "Erli Pavilion" and order two snacks for breakfast.Even in their spare time, Guangzhou people are willing to go to the "Erli Pavilion" to make a pot of tea, chat and gather to refresh their spirits.In addition to "Erli Pavilion", there are many large teahouses with a long history in Guangzhou, such as "Tao Taoju", "Ruyi Building", "Lianxiang Building", "Huiru Building", "Yi Le Ye", etc. It sits on the third and fourth floors of the building, with thousands of seats.This tea-drinking fashion has not declined to this day.Nowadays, even restaurants and 71 restaurants often add breakfast cafes.Even Dongfang Hotel, Victory Hotel, White Swan Hotel, etc. also have teahouses.Guangdong teahouses are different from Jiangnan teahouses. There are not only famous teas, but also delicacies. There are three markets in the morning, noon, and evening, and morning tea is the most popular, so it is called "eating morning tea". Eating morning tea is another kind of clear drinking art of Han nationality's famous tea with beautiful desserts.When having morning tea, customers can taste traditional tea according to their own preferences; at the same time, they can order several exquisite snacks according to their own taste.Such a sip of clear tea and snacks makes tea tasting more enjoyable.Nowadays, people regard eating morning tea no longer simply as a way of having breakfast, but more importantly, as a means of enriching life and socializing.For example, on a holiday, you can go to a teahouse with your whole family, sit around a small tea table, drink tea, taste something, and talk about state affairs and family affairs.Between relatives and friends, you can go to the teahouse, face your confidant, and chat with each other after refreshments.Therefore, many people are willing to have morning tea even if they are negotiating business, coordinating work, exchanging opinions, and even young men and women are in love.This is the reason why the custom of eating morning tea among the Han people has not only not declined since ancient times, but has become more popular. The fashion of drinking large bowls of tea is not uncommon in places such as car and ship wharfs, on both sides of avenues, workshop construction sites, and field work.This custom is most popular in northern my country. 煎茶大碗喝，可谓是汉族的一种古茶风。因此，自古以来，卖大碗茶亦列为中国的三百六十行之一。这种清茶一碗，大碗饮喝的方式，虽然比较粗犷，甚至颇有些“野味”，但它听凭自然，无需楼、堂、馆、所，摆设简便，只需一张简单的桌子、几条农家式的凳子和若干只粗瓷碗即可。所以，它多以茶摊、茶亭的方式出现，主要供过路行人解渴小憩之用。 ８１中国茶经由于这种喝大碗清茶的方式，贴近民众生活，人们需要它，因此，即使在生活不断改善和提高的今天，大碗茶仍然受到人们的欢迎与称道。 总之，清饮，乃是汉族饮茶的主要方式。凡有客自远方来，或者在一些重大的群众场合，尽管招待规格有高低之分，但清茶一杯，总是不会省的。至于自饮自乐，或者在饭前、饭后，或者在工余之暇，或者在紧张用脑和生理需要之际，汉族人都习惯用清茶一杯自慰。 （姚国坤）