Chapter 30 Chapter 30 Xixi: Clear Walks on the Water

First have a drink in Jiangcun, which governs Xixi.The dishes are cooked by farmer chefs, and they have a strong rural taste, which is better than the banquets in Hangzhou.Looking at the four aspects of beauty, delicacy, beauty and beauty, the latter two are slightly inferior. Most of them are dressed in earthen bowls, but the content is excellent.I like a dish of steamed eel. The eel has a strong aroma of eel and sauce, which melts in the mouth and feels moist.A salty and delicious dish, it is a soup stewed with fresh meat, bacon and fresh bamboo shoots.Others include watercress crucian carp, brine shrimp and crab, etc. Jiangcun has been a food base in Hangzhou since the Southern Song Dynasty.After having a drink, we started to go on the road and swim in Xixi.Xixi is one of the three famous scenic spots of West Lake, Xiling, and Xixi in Hangzhou. However, Xixi has been hidden by snow in the past. Today, it will be reopened. It is also a great pleasure to witness the clear scenery of Xixi in advance.The best way to visit Xixi is by boat. Go to the wharf and board the boat.

The face of the village woman who was rowing the oar has the marks of time, like the shallow waves of the Xixi River, and the mottled cement boat was buoyed by the water with difficulty until the water surface was close to the ship's side.The boat has a red roof and stands on four poles to keep out the scorching sun.The floating clouds were washed white by the sun, and they hung in the blue sky in clusters.The beauty of the scull is that there are no waves and noises when shaking, and the boat moves quietly.Leaving the wharf, the bow of the boat is plowed with waves, the Xixi River is silent, with clusters of red Polygonum, the waterway is like a glass road, quiet and smooth, with blue sky and white clouds indifferently and freely, willows on the bank blowing the wind, giant camphor crowns, and reflections of fishing villages.

After driving through a straight section of water, Xixi River turns and turns westward along the lush northern peak.As the boat gets closer, there are willow trees, camphor trees, plum trees, plum trees on the shore, persimmon trees with green persimmons, ingot trees with ingot-shaped flower clusters, fruit trees with red plum-shaped fruits, mulberry trees with large green leaves, and jujube trees. Pomegranate trees, bamboos, reeds, vines and other subtropical plants of various colors and shades of green are rushing along the two sides of the bank, and the water surface that meets the bank is surrounded by water hyacinth, green weed, green lotus, water chestnut and Polygonum rubrum. The tide-like green squeezes the river tightly, hard, narrow, and green in waves, and the air is filled with the sweet and cool smell of aquatic plants.

There are three or two bends in the waterway, and you will meet the stone gate. The stone gate is the archway of the fishing village, or the entrance of the village. Xixi people call it Doumen. Doumen is a water conservancy project. When the water rises, the gate is closed to prevent the river from flooding the fishing village. .Indeed, is it possible?When you enter the gate, you will see the village on the water. There is a deep pool in the village, which is a yard of water. The village rises from the water.The semi-Gothic-style building is already the main residence in the water town. It has a four-sided spire, on which there are three steel needles pointing directly at the blue sky. The walls are covered with mosaics as usual, and the windows are lined with blue glass. , the sun hits it, and the golden light shines.According to the traditional customs, garlic, mugwort, sword grass (another name for calamus) and zongzi are hung on the lintel. The crowing of cocks and the barking of dogs disperse in the moist air above the water.In front of the fisherman's door, there are cockscombs, impatiens, corn, Panax notoginseng or asparagus, and there are stone steps gradually entering the water, which is the place for fetching water and washing clothes. There are mooring boats beside it, and on the boats are grapes, loofahs, and pumpkins. The pergola is erected, the melons and fruits are abundant, and the bees and butterflies are dancing.There are ponds around the village, where fish and crabs are raised, water chestnuts are planted, and winding paths meander between weeping willows and green reeds.There is the sound of cicadas singing, fish playing in the pond water, and occasionally frogs jumping.

The village is Shentankou Village, Jiangcun Town. It is a "Z" shaped waterway. When you enter the village, you will see a hundred-year-old camphor tree standing on the front bank of the straight end, with huge branches stretching out. The "Huet" was bestowed by Emperor Qianlong. Dragon boat races are a must every Dragon Boat Festival, but it is not a race.It was early autumn, the sky was still hot, the dragon boat competition had long since ended, and there were a few fallen leaves in the empty stands. I could only imagine the hustle and bustle, the mighty young man with the dragon boat race, the man in red and green eating rice dumplings. A village girl and a village boy playing with realgar on the forehead.

Mr. Zhu is the guide of this trip. He is a photographer who has lived in a cottage in Xixi for more than ten years. He bought a boat, built a cottage in a bamboo forest, and raised a wolf dog to take pictures of Xixi.Mr. Zhu led us ashore to Mr. Jiang's home. Mr. Jiang has been a fisherman for generations. He is over seventy years old. His white hair is cut very short and his eyes are sunken. The strength is full, and the nails are thin and short, which is caused by the netting all the year round.Mr. Jiang's Xixi dialect is somewhat understandable. He said that his family has a four-acre fish pond and lives by farming and fishing. It is a pity that he could not listen to his lectures for a long time, but he took a closer look at his house.The hall is large, with an old boat turned upside down on the left wall. Beside the boat are nets, wooden oars, wooden buckets, poles, waterproof clothes, straw hats, bamboo baskets, bicycles, and on the right are Eight Immortals tables, wooden chairs, bamboo deck chairs, etc.Behind the hall is the kitchen, which is divided into two stoves. The left stove is a gas stove with a liquefied gas tank. It is a realistic stove for daily use. The right stove is made of cement and decorated with lime. There is a barrel-style lid on the pot, and a wooden spoon and water tank at the end of the stove.There is a terrace above the stove, covered with red cloth, and the top level is set up with the God of Kitchen God, which has traces of tribute.White stove and black iron pot, the fullness and warmth of the former water town.

Mr. Zhu asked Mr. Jiang to give us a performance of fishing with a net, and also for the filming of "Scenic Spots".Mr. Jiang agreed to release the boat, and we boarded the boat again and headed west.There is a bamboo curtain sluice, the sluice is braided with bamboo slices, through which the wind and water can leak, and the underwater is a fence net, which is even on the water surface, and the boat can pass through the net.Once out of the bamboo curtain gate, Xixi is wild. The sun, known as the "autumn tiger", is shining white, but the loose river wind blows only at intervals, which always surprises the coolness.Yu Dafu advocated that it should be slightly rainy when visiting Xixi, and take a wine box to cook, and sail in the misty Xixi in the light rain, while drinking, watching the wet and green leaves on both sides of the bank.Xixi monks said that Xixi is the best autumn in the middle of October, and it is best to have the moon, boats sailing in Xixi, the sound of moonlight and sculls, the clear light is hazy, the reeds are piled up with snow, the fish chase the shadow of the moon, the wind sends persimmon fragrance, and the fishing fires are clustered floating in the water.I thought it would be good to come to Xixi in June, because June is the time of red and green, red durian, lotus, Polygonum, water hyacinth and mulberry, especially mulberry, which is full of grain, crystal clean and soft, The dark red mulberry is hidden under the fat mulberry leaves. Its sweetness and slightly sourness are only made by nature, and a glance is enough to make the bottom of the tongue salivate.June is a time of grand and luxuriant vitality. Frogs roar to the sky, fireflies swim quietly, fish jump and cranes soar. Wouldn’t it give people great inspiration?

It was an early autumn, and the Qiantang tide had passed on Qixi Festival, and the spring tide had not yet arrived on August 15th. Xixi, by the bank of the Qiantang River, was sunburned lazily by the hot sun, and the persimmons on the trees were still glowing blue, commonly known as water hyacinths. There are clusters of water hyacinth, its leaves are soft and clean, with light yellow ripples, and there are water hyacinth-like blisters on the petioles. This thing hangs its roots in the water, shakes it according to the waves, and sometimes there are red dragonflies standing on the leaves , Does the wind come from it?I didn't bring any wine, so I drank mineral water.Between the boats, boats catch up from behind from time to time, pass by the side, and disappear slightly at the bend of the river.I also saw an old lady sitting alone at the stern of the boat and paddling, wearing white clothes and black trousers, wearing a small round straw hat, with a round face, lost teeth, sunken lips, black and bright eyes, especially kind.As the boat passed by, there were two small long petals hanging from the old grandmother's back, and suddenly she was far away.Occasionally, there are fishing boats approaching. Wet fishing nets and aquatic plants covering the fishing cabin can be faintly seen on the boat. The middle-aged fishermen are bare-chested, with bronze chests, round arms and strong muscles. They all wear small straw straw hats, and the fishing boats shoot like arrows Go, some scattered sunlight is left on the water.But I saw a household fishing boat on the water, there were still nets on board, and the fishermen were lighting a fire to cook, with smoke rising from the bow of the boat.

Leisurely Xixi, now a corner forgotten by the world, has long been West Lake, Xixi, and Xiling—one of the three great scenic spots in heaven. After the imperial capital was built, Phoenix Mountain changed its mind and said "Leave Xixi", and Xixi is also commonly known as "Leave".This left behind thousands of years, young men and women in fishing villages went to the bustling city, and older people were still fishing and planting water chestnuts.But in the early years, when Xixi was connected to the canal, pilgrims at that time mostly took boats from Xixi to Lingyin Temple to burn incense. Emperor Qianlong also came here in a luxurious dragon boat to watch the "Dragon Boat Festival", which was very prosperous.

Mr. Zhu suddenly called to stop the boat. Looking through his lens, there were three egrets standing on the shore. The egrets held up their super long necks and watched them vigilantly. Mr. Zhu pressed the shutter once, and the egrets flew up with flapping wings against the green Lu went to the distance.There are more and more egrets, and there are five or seven or eight perched, and there are also gray herons. It seems that gray herons are experienced fishermen, but in fact, so are egrets.But its clean appearance makes it impossible to eat.A waterline floated in, and Zhang Qin, who was traveling with her, suddenly screamed: Snake!It is a small water snake, with a cute oval head held high, twisting its body gracefully and leisurely to cross to the other shore. You can see the light yellow markings on its body. It is a very pure snake.Next, I saw water snakes from time to time, but no longer accompanied by screams.

The water surface of Nanzhang Lake widened. Mr. Zhu called it Luweidang, or Lianxiali, so he stopped the boat.When I landed on the shore, my feet were particularly strong. I moved to a high place and looked south, but I saw the northern peak from east to west, and a green curtain stretched away, successively going away.Between the North Peak and Xixi, there is a mixture of water and Zhu. Zhu is a small island in the water, whether high or low, large or small, all green and lush, the Zhu is green and the water is white.Turning to the west and north, it is the water and the green islands on the water. The green islands seem to be floated or submerged by the water, one green island after another, stretching out of sight.People who are here are in the midst of the green island and the kingdom of water.As a cloud moved quickly, it covered a piece of green, and the green became dark green, and a piece of dark green slowly moved in the vast green field. Nearby, there were dense reeds, swaying willows, groups of egrets and others. The wading birds are flying and falling, and the breeze filtered by the green leaves is blowing, life is integrated into the green field, into the water, and the sun is pouring down like a waterfall. In the quiet world, only the nearby creatures at the bottom of the water make cooing sounds. I just thought, why do you want that "Qiu Xue Ting Lu"?But the wind in the reeds is also equally sentimental. The wind is a green wind. On the Xixi Wetland, at the most thorough time, strolling against the wind, what time is it?Turning around, Mr. Jiang had already pulled the net out, and Mr. Zhu had set up the tripod. Mr. Jiang erected the bow of the boat and made a 180-degree half-body rotation. There are three to five half-foot-long fish in the net, which caused a small cheer in my heart.If it was boiled on the boat, the soup should be very fresh. Mr. Jiang put the fish into the pond. When I saw the fish, I began to recognize Xixi as the real living water.I thought of the old master who used inkstone to study ink and wrote on the rice paper with a pen: Xixi rivers are vertical and horizontal, mountains embrace water, and the situation is magnificent. With Qinting Mountain as the source and Xikan Bridge as the port, the water is like a belt, with twists and turns. , the fairyland is open, the scenery on both sides of the river is reflected in the stream, from Gudang to Liushibali to the north of Laohe Mountain in West Lake, there are Qinting Mountain, Fahua Mountain, and Anle Mountain parallel to the stream, so it is named Yanshan River.The ink is thick, and the imagination space is a bit empty. If you add "Xixi Exploring Plum Blossoms, Autumn Snow Listening to Reeds, Dilu Scattering Flowers, Lianxia Fanyue, Autumn Snow Eight Scenic Spots, Qishang Early Summer, Clouds Dwelling in Qushui" and so on, it will become more and more vivid. Mo Su, we ordinary people have our own common ideas, thinking that it is better to wander around Xixi without setting a theme. If you are looking for plum blossoms to fall, and listening to the reeds before they bloom, don’t you just ask for trouble?To Xixi, after all, it is to untie the mood, and let the mood wander in the quietness of Xixi, which is the reason for the elite to hide in Xixi.Fish is mood, mood is fish, and fish swimming is also my swimming. When the boat went to Qiuxue Nunnery, it entered the labyrinth of water, turned back and forth, suddenly a fish jumped to the roof, fell high, and splashed cool water on the boat. I am grateful that this is the same greeting.Further on, there was a person fishing alone on the Zhu, the water was clear without waves, the plump mulberry leaves were green, and there seemed to be thunder in the distance, but he couldn't hear it if he listened carefully.Turning a song, there are three triangular reed nunneries among the green trees on the Zhu. The wise man enjoys the water, and the one who builds the nunnery is a wise man?To get away from the mundane world, it should be Zhixing.Xixi is originally a secluded water, catch fish to get fish, plant water chestnuts to get water chestnuts, sow the seeds of poetry, and poetry will grow on the water.For example, "Xixi Plum and Bamboo Villa", Feng Mengzhen's "Xixi Thatched Cottage", Liu Fu's "Qiyuan", and the great poet Li E of the Qing Dynasty chose Wangjiawu as his eternal destination. The phrase "Spring dreams sometimes come to the pillow, and the sunset still hangs on the curtain" is a gift. In the Song Dynasty, Qiuxue Nunnery was the Dasheng Nunnery. During the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty, Chen Meigong changed its name to Qiuxue Nunnery after taking the meaning of a Tang poem "Autumn snow covered with fishing boats". Instead of welcoming guests.Abandoning the boat and entering the nunnery, there are bamboos everywhere, and the sheds of the nunnery are also made of bamboo. There are no abbots, and there are no pilgrims.Only the calmness seems to be the same. When I turned back, I saw an old man who opened a fasting room. Visitors can eat fast here. I wanted to ask the old man for a bowl of water, but he couldn't understand my Mandarin. Everything can be built in time, and everything can be smoothed out in time. Humans are social animals, and real hermits are fish, insects, flowers and birds. There used to be more than a hundred nunneries in Xixi, but now there are no traces of them, or the nunneries are waiting for them. It is a long river surrounded by grass and trees, and the empty water can be used for boating. The dead have passed away, and the coming come back. The water is quiet, the clouds are quiet, and the heart is still sometimes restless. Leaving Qiuxue Nunnery. Farewell to Mr. Jiang, go to visit Cailing people.The water chestnut is a pond water chestnut, which came through a secluded path, and the village girl never saw it. An old man picked water chestnuts in a water chestnut basin. This is the first time he has seen such a lush water chestnut. The water chestnut vines are connected underwater, and the leaves of a water chestnut plant are full of feet on the water surface. , the leaves are whorled, and there are four leaves in turn. The leaves are rhombus-shaped, and each leaf can cover the water. The petiole intersects with flower stems, white flowers, and water chestnuts. It is a quadrangular water chestnut. The shape of the water chestnut is like a fox face. Two corners resemble ears, and the other two corners resemble hooks. When the water chestnut matures, its color is red, so it is called Hongling.The water chestnut in Xixi is not as sweet as the powder of the two-cornered water chestnut, and it is not as sweet as the wild water chestnut. It lives in it, like the gentle and moderate character of Zhejiang people, and indifferent and elegant like Xixi. After getting the red water chestnut, I return happily, Xixi is still quiet, passing through the fishing village, some people do laundry, or there are cocks crowing and dogs barking, and the sunset shines slantingly. Those half-gothic fisherman's houses are much more harmonious in the soft brilliance. , Looking at it again, I remembered Xu Zhimo's verse: Wave your sleeves, and you won't take a cloud away.But I was wearing a short-sleeved silk shirt, so I stared at Xixi for a while, and then returned to the Xixi wharf with the boat.