Chapter 32 How can you resist the temptation of ancient Qing raw food

Liu Yiqing Around 1997, I read an article about the beauty and food of the Yellow River estuary. Pay attention to the author, Gu Qingsheng. The name and the steaming milky white fish soup entered my memory together.Later, I met him many times on the Internet, and I liked his clever writing about food, and all kinds of food are vivid and fragrant.So, I asked him for a manuscript and compiled and distributed some of his works.Later (in the winter of 2003), Gu Qingsheng came into reality from the Internet and came to Qingdao to be a judge of the TV show Man Han Banquet.When we met, I was taken aback, hehe, compared with him, I became a southerner and he became a standard Shandong man.Invite the gourmet among the writers to dinner, entertain him with seafood from Qingdao, such as base tail shrimp, clams in raw juice, steamed sea oysters (oysters), ginger conch... We sat twice at the Golden Lighthouse by the sea and talked about the cup , Listen to Gu Qingsheng talk about food, tell his life story and writing experience, and occasionally talk about literary anecdotes.

 Gu Qingsheng wrote his trip to Qingdao into an article "The Capture of Zen", which is included in this article. When I read this book, I felt very cordial, as if sitting in the golden lighthouse with Gu Qingsheng again, talking with each other from the bottom of our hearts.The first one is "Steamed Taste • True Taste".After reading this article by Gu Qingsheng, it suddenly dawned on me that the monsters like to "steam Tang Monk to eat" so much, and it turns out that Wu Chengen's hometown Sheyang and Hubei, where he is an official, is a popular steamed food.Gu Qingsheng borrowed the food concept of Ge Baihao, the founder of Hangzhou Steaming Kung Fu Health Center, to express his views: "Stir frying is noisy, that is, it is noisy and chaotic, and miscellaneous flavors are born; The inner softness, only the burnt aroma on the surface, the inside and outside are different, which is deceptive to the taste; frying is the same, and the fried food also lacks essential expression. It is the cooking technique of frying that changes the original taste of the food. In the process of frying and roasting, the dish loses its original taste and adds other flavors; only the steamed taste is the real taste. During the cooking process of steamed vegetables, the nutrition of the dishes can be guaranteed, while other fats and charred vegetables that are harmful to human health Changing matter does not exist..." Here there is an image outside the image, and a taste outside the taste. I was delighted to read the article "Eat the Sunshine", which combines the temptation of food, the passion of poetry, and the friendship in the world. It is not a bad idea to regard it as a work that records the social psychology before and after "SARS".

 Reading Gu Qingsheng's book, he eats delicious food, but surprises the readers.I was amazed that Gu Qingsheng has a traveler's extensive knowledge and strong memory. Everywhere he goes, he discovers local cultural resources through food.He also has a gourmet's sensitive tongue and a greedy appetite, and he tastes delicious food to show the local customs.He is also a hero on the Internet. He posted the article on the Internet BBS, which caused both saliva and admiration to fly.Every time I see his articles on Tianya.com, I always get a sneak peek.  In Gu Qingsheng's articles, there are authentic four-square customs and antique folk traditions. He presents gentle poetry in the rough texture of life. Humanistic care is infiltrated in the description of food, and ethereal connotations are in the honest words. .I think that Gu Qingsheng's food writing does not have the bookish atmosphere of Deng Yunxiang, but has the sunshine and earth atmosphere; it does not have the literary atmosphere of Wang Zengqi, but has the sweet and slightly bitter atmosphere of the wanderer; it does not have the aristocratic atmosphere of Tang Lusun, but has The pride of the traveler.Gu Qing fresh food inherits the classical elegance and integrates the unique landscape of our era.

 Reading Gu Qingsheng's books is a double enjoyment.On the one hand, follow him on a paper trip, and on the other hand, enjoy the delicious food.While eye-opening, while appetizing.Gain fresh feelings while watching his friends.Gu Qingsheng's pens show regional characteristics like a camera, first reading for the senses, but also for the stomach, and finally turned into the pleasure of eating and the joy of spirit.Gu Qingsheng perfectly combined the metaphysical desire for food and drink with the metaphysical spiritual diet.  Gu Qingsheng said in an interview with the reporter of "Exquisite Herald": "Everyone thinks that the food in his hometown is the best. Hometown is an enzyme, and there is nostalgia in the taste." cultural nostalgia.With the advent of the era of mechanization, vegetables and fruits no longer have natural colors and natural growth. Chicken, duck and fish have also changed the growth order and growth environment of the past thousands of years. Many foods are produced by assembly lines, and traditional delicacies also The soil for survival is lost, and the purely handmade food is about to be lost. The natural delicacy is only in the memory of childhood and belongs only to the hometown.In today's day when Sudan red and hanging white blocks are frequently exposed by the media, it is a luxury to talk about food.Looking at Gu Qingsheng's writing about eating and drinking, in fact, Gu Qingsheng is still a way to resist the ordinary and mediocre life. Food is the outlet of Gu Qingsheng's soul and a concern for social reality. It runs through the understanding of all things and life. respect, and thinking about the status quo of human existence.