Chapter 33 Not just the love of Moinba girl

Later, when I returned to Beijing, my friends asked me about the hardships of this journey. They were looking for novelty, and wanted to hear about different encounters or near-death situations.This can’t be blamed on them. It seems that most of the people who went to Medog come back, chat with people or write travel notes, they will more or less mention the moment when they are in danger. When everyone listens to my story, they immediately despise me. Extremely. As a friend said: It is not suitable for a corrupt traveler like you to go to Medog at all. I don't know, is it because Medog is in a deep boudoir, and you have to go through jungles and cliffs to get there, so people think that coming here must be an adventure.However, the wish of several generations of Medog is to build a road that can lead to the outside world, so that the transportation of materials is not so difficult.

From 80K to Medog County, young porters can be seen from time to time.They are a landscape on the Medog Line, but this landscape is full of bitterness.Under the heavy luggage, there is often a childish face.They will be happy to tell you how much weight they can carry, how far they can walk, and how much money they can earn every day when they are thirteen years old.At such a time, we tourists who come in from the outside don't know what else to answer. Medog does not exist for tourists who explore many years later, nor does porter exist for tourists who cannot carry their luggage into Medog. Why do we require them to be in danger?Just to satisfy your little desire to escape from the city?

Everyone in Medog remembers when the first car drove into Medog in 1993.At that time, the people of the entire Medog County were notified and were on standby at any time, ready to welcome the first vehicle to drive in. Everyone was dressed in festive costumes, the girls held wild flowers picked from the mountains, the men pushed and shoved, and even the old people and children stood behind them. Everyone sang, danced and drank, happily.However, there was a problem with the newly built road, and the cars that came in could no longer go out. Numerous mudslides and large landslides blocked the entry of the cars behind and also blocked the way back for the first car.The driver tied up his trouser legs and left Medog on foot with the villagers, while the car just stayed in the potholed open space.

Today, the empty shells of cars can still be seen parked under the trees.The yellow car shell is set against the huge banana leaves, which is a bit like the Vietnam War. During the construction of the road from Bomi to Medog, many touching stories happened. It is said that a Han man fell in love with a girl of the Moinba nationality because the road could not be repaired, so he left his life in Motuo. The back collapsed.At that time, this incident aroused the attention of the whole village, and all the people came to see him and gave them blessings.The stay of this man made the Moinba people feel happy. For several days, the villagers sang loudly.However, in order to bring them back the wedding supplies from Pai Township, the father of Girl Menba stumbled and fell off the cliff.He didn't see his daughter's wedding and was buried where he stumbled.Later, the Han man learned fluent Monba and carried the back frame that his father-in-law had used for half his life.

Medog County is very small, and it doesn't take long to walk slowly. The three of us walked around and looked around. Tao Wei, who was so nervous along the way, finally came back to his senses.Lan was still chattering endlessly, looking energetic. Half an hour later, Lan began to make fun of Tao Wei.On Medog Street, there are many shop signs with beautiful women's heads. I don't know if this small county with only a thousand locals and a thousand foreigners really needs so many ladies? Tao Wei said: "What do you know? This road, if you say that the mountain is closed, it will be closed, and it will take more than half a year. Who can hold it?"

Lan Ye smiled and replied: "That's right! You old men are so busy, you need to have fun." I don't think there is anything unusual about it. I heard from my friends that they went to a certain place in Inner Mongolia, and that was a thrill.All the cheap ladies kept greeting the migrant workers in the glass door and soliciting business. After hearing my words, Tao Wei and Lan were stunned for a moment.Hey, life is always more exciting than fiction! When it comes time to eat, it is imperative to order a stone pot chicken. We have never figured out how they hollowed out the middle of the stone, leaving the shape of a pot?However, the delicious soup and delicious chicken make people have endless aftertaste.

After eating, there is nothing to entertain.I remembered that my buddy who was a soldier in Medog said that the marriage and love of the Monba people are more interesting and special, so I urged Tao Wei and Lan to come together and wait for the boss to finish his work. The boss is from Sichuan. He said that he has been here for 10 years. He probably just heard us talking about the girls. The boss told us very seriously that the first batch of girls came in on foot.It's amazing! Added food and beer, we asked the boss to drink some together.When the wine was in full swing, the boss came into the room and brought two more bottles of white wine. He gulped down his stomach and sighed, "I haven't had such a good drink for a long time!" He waved and invited us to continue eating and drinking, saying It's the white wine that counts for him, just drink whatever you want.

As the saying goes, drunk talk a lot.The boss was drinking and talking to us about a past event. When he was still a teenager, he fell in love with a girl of the Monba tribe.The girl's voice is like a silver sparrow, and her swaying waist is like a willow supporting the wind. The first time he saw her, he was deeply attracted.From that day on, everywhere she stopped, he could see his concerned eyes in the corner. When he finally plucked up the courage, he stepped forward to talk to her, only to learn that she had already had a marriage contract with his aunt's son. Marriage is free for the Moinba people. Some people sing, "No matter how high the mountains in the northeast are, they can't cover the sun in the sky, and no matter how powerful the parents are, they can't stop children from choosing a partner."Although this free marriage is not restricted by parents and is not affected by the level of wealth or poverty, there are unwritten rules that believe that the uncle's daughter is married off by others, which means that the son of the aunt's family is incompetent.Therefore, the uncle's family has long been a good friend of Qin and Jin.

The girl did not accept his love, but he stayed here, unwilling to take his eyes off her. What the boss said about the past reminded me of the Mosuo tour guide I met in Lugu Lake a few years ago.He said that the Mosuo people are a matrilineal clan. Whoever falls in love with a girl from a certain family has to make an appointment to climb the wall of her house one night, go in at night and sneak out in the morning. It is not uncommon for a girl to get pregnant out of wedlock. . This may seem like a messy relationship to outsiders, but the Mosuo people themselves are very disciplined. Once they identify a partner, they will come to propose marriage and will not climb other girls' walls.

It is now heard that the same is true of the Monba people.The uncle is the most authoritative person in the daughter's family. Once the daughter is married, the groom's family must entertain the uncle thoughtfully and make him very satisfied.In the wedding, no matter how perfect the preparations are, the uncle will still pick up troubles, accusing here and there of not doing well, expressing his reluctance to let his daughter leave home, and hoping that she will be taken seriously in her in-law's family. However, when the husband and wife are at odds and want to divorce, the uncle can't help it.As long as the mediation by the head of the village fails, they can get a divorce and the property will return to the original owner.If one party does not agree to divorce, the other party will pay the large animals and money, and the party who proposes divorce will not get children.The remarriage of widows is also in their own hands.Marriage is very free.

Such a free marriage has a grand and unique wedding ceremony. It is said that once the wedding date is confirmed, the groom's family will start to make various preparations, and when the auspicious day arrives, they will send out the matchmaker, best man, bridesmaid and two relatives of the man early.They go to the bride's house to present hada, toast and bless the bride's parents and relatives, and leave early to pick up the bride. After picking up the well-dressed bride, there are "three wines" on the way to the groom's house.Eloquent toasters are waiting at the entrance of the village of the bride's house, in the middle of the road, and at the edge of the village of the groom's house. At the groom's house, the bride has to change all the clothes and jewelry after drinking the dust-cleaning wine, and put on the things prepared by her husband's house from inside to outside.The ceremony is said to symbolize the history of the transition from matriarchy to patriarchy. During the wedding, farces will continue to appear. The guests attending the wedding usually bring their own food and drink. On the third day after drinking and singing, the bride’s family will go back. In addition to saying goodbye, the mother of the bride usually scolds her son-in-law after telling her daughter .When they are all gone and the bride is left crying, her mother will suddenly take the bride away with her relatives and let her go home together.It wasn't until the matchmaker mediated that the husband's family promised to treat the daughter-in-law like a daughter-in-law, and the sudden marriage change came to an end. The topic of marriage and love seems too cruel for the boss.His drinking capacity is quite large, close to two catties of wine, he is still sober, but he talked a little too much. Thinking about it, too, how many years I have been alone in the vacant room, the passing passengers may be the best audience, after all, when I leave, I will continue to live without changing anything. Lan cautiously asked the boss if it was true that the Menba people had poisoned.Tao Wei and I didn't say a word, thinking of the Moinba girl the boss had an unrequited love for, I felt a little distressed.The boss nodded, then shook his head again, and said: "The people who release poison can be identified. They will hang big black spiders in front of their doors, and they will be passed on from female to male. Others will hang strings of egg shells on the door. , so that the family is safe. However, you’d better not go to the house of the Monba people you are not familiar with to eat or drink, they sometimes hide the poison in their long fingernails, and they will fall into it as soon as you touch them.” It is said that poison is divided into heat poison and cool poison. Heat poison causes immediate death, while cool poison causes people to wither and die slowly.Because Medog is located in the tropics, there are many poisonous fruits and poisonous trees in the virgin forest, and it is poisonous to dry them and grind them into powder. When the boss spoke, there was a sense of security, and every word and sentence was very calm.It's really hard to imagine that a person like him can stay behind for so many years for love.He told us that the climate here is hot, so sometimes the food is spoiled, and the person who ate it died, and happened to drink or eat at someone's house before death, so that family was considered a poisoning family.Such families will be driven out by the village, or even wrapped in cowhide and thrown into the river. Primitive ecology is always cruel. Do these people who died unjustly miss the mysterious land of Medog? At night, there was a light rain, and the raindrops hit the small bamboo building and the iron sheet of the roof, tinkling like a hypnotic nocturne. Lan walked to my bed and asked in a low voice, "Can I share a bed with you tonight?" I nodded, she was lying beside me, holding my arm, curled up into a ball.