Chapter 34 goodbye back collapse

Lan asked me: "Xiu, why are there so many touching stories of staying behind for love when there are so many one-night stands in the city?" Perhaps, it is because of the humid atmosphere here, all kinds of exotic flowers and trees, as well as the peculiar way of life of the Moinba and Lhoba people and the land they hold on to. As we have heard, the urbanites who stay here for love should be infected by this breath, such as the Han man who stayed in Beibeng. Beibeng is the largest township in the Medog area, and the only urban building in the township is a Hope Primary School where the sound of reading is heard.

The place with subtropical style and touching stories hypnotizes our fatigue and makes us rush to the region adjacent to India without stopping. There are fewer people heading from the county to Beibeng, and most of them come from the direction of Lhasa.At dawn, the hikers all set off.Along the way, you can see people in groups from time to time, so you don't feel lonely. The fallen petals are colorful on the soil.The wet land is like a warm embrace, and the blossoming pink wild flowers, like cuff buttons, also turn into spring mud to protect the flowers. We did not listen to the advice of the hotel owner and drove to the hotel without fear of death.Because the rainy season has passed, everyone is lucky, thinking that there will be no big landslides on the road.

Although the rainy season has passed, the soil on the road is always wet. Once the wheels pass, two deep marks are left.As people often say, every ring mark has its own story, and every wheel also records the story of the traveler. On the way, the car swayed on the dirt road, accompanied by the sound of sand rolling down. At first, I kept climbing the hillside. Some people said it was called the slope of despair, because I went around back and forth, but I couldn't see the end.On the side of the mountain, small sand and stones flow down from time to time, and the lush plants grow from various angles as if they cannot be squeezed.On the other side is a cliff with no protective facilities, just loose sand and clusters of shrubs.

Between the mountains, there are misty clouds and mists, like the place where gods live.There are many unique rattan bridges along this route.Because the Lhoba people like to live in high mountains, the traffic is usually by a cable bridge made of white rattan.It is said that instead of nailing it one by one, only the slender stems of vines in the primeval forest are used to make a flexible vine bridge.There is skill in crossing this kind of bridge. Your steps must follow the rhythm of the vine bridge's ups and downs, so that you can walk safely and steadily.Otherwise, it will keep swaying, and the more afraid it is, the easier it is to be teased.

The altitude is getting lower and lower, and the moist water molecules in the air greedily kiss the skin.In the subtropical jungle, the plants grow staggered, with a special sense of hierarchy, messy but not crowded.Pieces of moss tell ancient stories, and clear spring water nourishes the local creatures. The vegetation along the way always gives me an ancient sense of loneliness. Whether it is a towering tree that bends towards the sky or a small tree with a slender waist hanging down, they are like the guardians of the mountains and the masters from another space. After turning a corner, you can see the Yarlung Zangbo River rolling between the two mountains.On the opposite mountain is Dexing Village, and the Dexing Tengqiao is built on the turbid river.A thin white line connects the green hills on both sides of the bank, and the river flowing through it seems to have lost its arrogance.

Continuing forward, there are still countless small landslides, and the original narrow road has been half-removed by sand and stones, making it even more bumpy.Along the way, prayer flags appeared in front of us from time to time, sometimes on the side of the road, sometimes on the bridge. My favorite is the banana tree that can be seen everywhere, with huge leaves, just looking at it makes people feel cool.Because at this time, the temperature is already very high. On the path, there are Moinba men carrying big bamboo poles, and there are Moinba women carrying small baskets on their backs.

On the surrounding hills, the slash-and-burn farming method is still maintained. Slash-and-burn farming is a farming method left over from the Neolithic Age. Trees are cut down or the grass on the ground is dried, burned into ashes with fire to make fertilizer, and then pits are dug on the spot to sow seeds.The fire-burned land becomes soft and fertilized with plant ash for a year without fertilization.This kind of management makes the land change every year, the productivity is very low, and the yield of crops is very low. It is commonly known as "planting on a slope, harvesting a basket".

Along the way, you can see the mountain land burned by the Menba people, only that one piece is bare, like a man with a skinny head.They buried seeds in the ashes, drove away wild animals, and waited for the crops to grow and mature naturally.A few years later, when the land became barren, it was abandoned, and the original family moved to a mountain forest, and then burned a piece of land, repeating the previous slash-and-burn farming.It is said that there are many such agricultural methods in Africa. Menba people get up early and work late every day, doing farm work in the farmland with their backs to the loess, using some simple tools to maintain the survival of the whole family.In these mountains, they never knew that the outside world was already full of high-rise buildings, nor did they know that human beings could already land on the moon. They just simply repeated their daily labor, thinking that this was life.

The confluence of the Yarlung Zangbo River and the Doxiongla River reminds me of the trip with my mother when I was 15 years old. On the cruise ship from Dalian to Shanghai, I can clearly see the border line between the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. On one side is the turbid Bohai Sea and on the other side is blue The Yellow Sea, and at this time, on the side of the green trees is the clear Doxongla River, while on the other side is the chaotic Yarlung Zangbo River. The merged river flows downstream, and we finally see the Jiefang Bridge.This means that the end is ahead, the most beautiful Beibeng Township!

Photography is not allowed on the bridge.After the border defense certificate was handed over to the army for inspection, we slowly crawled for two miles along the dirt road to Beibeng Township. The greenery covered the place as far as the eye could see, and the faint mist floated in the air. I don't know if it was cooking smoke or clouds.In between, there are some red dots, which are houses and mud ponds. We met Gatso here. After staying in a hotel run by a doorman at the head of the village, he bumped into an ignorant young man head-on. He apologized in a hurry and left, but stopped when he saw Tao Wei's off-road vehicle. He was stroking the dirty body, Then he raised his head and asked, "Is this yours?"

Those eyes are as pure as a child who has never been involved in the world, looking at you so seriously. The accommodation conditions here are obviously not as good as in Medog County. The toilets and bathrooms are built in the open air in the yard. A few wooden boards covered with a cloth are the bathrooms.Go in with a bucket full of water and come out with an empty bucket.Lan and I didn't have enough physical strength, so we carried a bucket together, and simply wiped off the mud and sweat on our bodies, and we were done.Tao Wei seemed to enjoy it very much, humming to himself while taking a bath. During dinner, Jiacuo came again.He chatted with Tao Wei and said that there are only two cars like his in the village, because there are no cars, everything here is expensive, and drinks cost 10 yuan a bottle, and only tourists buy them.Otherwise, the little girl picks fruits in the garden at home, sells them to tourists, and then goes to buy food. At lunch the next day, Jiacuo still came on time and chatted with Tao Wei as usual.For a long time, it seemed that Lan and I had never existed in his eyes. Under the bright sun, several children were chasing and beating outside the door. Jiacuo said a few words to them, and the children ran away.Only then did he smile apologetically, and said the first sentence to all of us: "The older one is my nephew, very naughty." Later, when we got acquainted, Tao Wei decided to take Jiacuo for a ride in the mountains on a whim.When Jiacuo heard this, he was very excited.We all laughed at him, but he waved his hands repeatedly and said, "No way, there are savages on the mountain!" Are there really savages?We didn't believe it, but seeing Jiacuo's nervous appearance, no one wanted to take the risk. This Gyatso is homophonic to the romantic Tsangyang Gyatso, but it does not have the poetry and love of the sixth Dalai Lama at all. He only has that off-road vehicle in his eyes and hearts. Probably his greatest wish in this life is to have an off-road vehicle! Lan asked him, "If you had a car, where would you most like to go?" He replied without hesitation: "Lhasa." But after thinking about it, he said in a low voice: "If I can still choose, I also want to drive to India." Beibeng is very close to India, and it is said that it can be reached in one day.A border defense certificate is required to come to Beibeng, also because it is at the border, and public security needs to be guaranteed. Lan said, "Why not go now? It's so close." Jiacuo's voice was always soft: "Because my heart has no home, I haven't been to Lhasa yet." Lan looked at Tao Wei, then turned to Jiacuo and said, "Then come with us in a few days and take this car you like to Lhasa!" Jiacuo stared blankly at Lan, his eyes full of indescribable sadness.He couldn't go with them, because when he went to Lhasa, he wanted to kowtow to pray for his family, not to go sightseeing. When a handsome young man like Jiacuo is sad, others can't help being infected.Fortunately, he quickly adjusted his mood, stood up and smiled at us, saying that he would take us to a nearby waterfall. Along the way, Jiacuo walked quickly, and Lan Xiaopao followed beside him, talking non-stop.She is really an energetic girl, like a perpetual motion machine, she can keep creating events and bringing fun to her friends. When we arrived at the waterfall, Tao Wei and I sat on the rocks to rest, watching Lan kept teasing Jiacuo, and felt that life can actually be very beautiful.In this spare moment, I remembered the situation of sitting in front of the monastery with Tang Li and blowing the wind, as if it had been a lifetime away.But the warm feeling on the neck seems to be just now. The water mist brings bursts of refreshing coolness. Being in the middle of the valley, you can't feel the surrounding mountains.Except for the sound of water, there is only my own reverie left. Back at the hotel, Jiacuo wanted to say goodbye to us.Lan took out the warm ZIPPO (lighter) and handed it to his palm, then winked at him.Jiacuo took off the pulu from his waist and stuffed it into Lan's hand. Later, whenever I think about the scene, it feels like a token exchange. It's a pity that I was stupid at the time and didn't want to match Lan and Jiacuo.They must have liked each other.Unmarried men and unmarried women, if Tao Wei and I were around to stir up trouble, it might be a good thing! On the journey, what is missed will be missed forever. In the morning of the next day, Tao Wei and Lan were going to move on, leaving Hanmi for Lhasa.As for Jiacuo, the end of life is Motuo, which is Beibeng.what about me? This night, it was difficult to sleep.I don't know which way to go home.Tomorrow, will I go forward with my friends, or will I go back and forth?In this paradise-like Beibeng Township, is there a place for me to stay? All night, Lan fell asleep holding my arm.When she was quiet, she looked like a child.She is a child who is so warm to everyone, with a sincere friendliness, and the strangers she has come into contact with along the way are all gifted by her. And Tao Wei, although he is a man of few words, is a good man of action.For some reason, his serious attitude reminded me of Ali I met in Gannan. Waking up in the morning, the whole valley is covered with white mist. The wooden house we live in also carries the damp moisture and the fragrance of plants. The Moinba children with collapsed backs have already gone to school with their schoolbags on their backs.I decided to go with my friends. The car traveled a long way in the mist, and when I turned around, I found Jiacuo standing alone by the road.We then waved our hands, and his figure became smaller and smaller in sight until he was completely invisible.