Chapter 32 Movement 12 Medog: The Lotus of the Hidden Holy Land

I know the name "Medog" in 2006, watching Baby Anne.She said: "Medog is an important memory. Memories are the only wealth left to people by time. I know that I can keep it for the rest of my life. I wrote a book about it. The book is silent and dignified. In this way Very good. Because in reality, I probably wouldn’t easily talk about this journey with others. It’s my secret feast.” I searched the Internet for introductions about Medog.People say, don't go to Medog, because the difficulty of hiking in Medog is beyond people's usual imagination, and it is even possible that you will never return.

I am afraid of death, but I am attracted by those mysterious things.Medog means "hidden lotus flower" in Tibetan. Just seeing the name, you will have infinite reverie.Some people rely on hugs to prove their existence, some rely on money, but I rely on endless imagination. When a place becomes a dream, you will imagine in every second that you might think of it, what would it be like to go there? A friend of a friend was once a soldier in Medog, and I asked him about various things there.Speaking of Medog, his tone was very respectful.When I asked about the grievances between the Monba and the Lhoba, he expressed surprise.He said that among the comrades-in-arms are the Monba and Lhoba ethnic groups, and there is intermarriage between the two ethnic groups, and a lot of information on the Internet is wrong.

Legend has it that the Monba people believe that people's beauty, wisdom, health, and even luck can be transferred, so they want to poison those who are unusually beautiful, healthy, strong, or intelligent. I asked, do the Monba people poison their food?He replied that they lived in the primeval forest, they just knew about drugs, and they didn't want to put them indiscriminately. The words of this buddy gave me the courage to go to Medog. After meeting Tao Wei and the others, we briefly exchanged our understanding of Medog. Needless to say, the mysterious religion and the scenery along the way are mainly the dangers that may be encountered along the way.In my understanding, one of the dangers is leeches and insect snakes.Therefore, in addition to leggings, mosquito repellent water, and essential oils, you have to bring anti-inflammatory drugs.Secondly, the road is difficult and dangerous, requiring a trekking stick, band-aids, gauze, alcohol, safflower oil and bandages.

Tao Wei said that they have prepared a complete set of standing medicines, and they didn't use them all the way, so there is no need to worry about the medicines.In addition, the altitude over there is low, so the temperature is much higher than here, so just bring a few waterproof clothes and lighten your equipment. Finally, we prepared enough food and stored the extra things in Tao Wei's hotel.The hotel owner heard that we were going to Medog, and said: "Now is a better time to enter Medog, and it would be too late. The rainy season in August has passed, and the road collapse and mudslides will be much reduced. Along the way, you have many Watch your step."

It turned out that he had been to Medog twice on foot.He said that he would tell everyone who wanted to go to Medog from him, hoping to see them again. After listening to the boss's words, we were very moved.We just met by chance, but treat each other so sincerely. The boss asked us if we had completed the border defense permits, but Tao Wei's two friends hadn't. Before leaving, they passed by Motuo and had no chance to meet each other.Instead, I picked up a bargain, and I can travel with Tao Wei in an off-road vehicle. I stored the motorcycle that accompanied me all the way in the shop of the boss, and entrusted him to sell it for me if someone asked.When I come back from Medog, I will come to him again.

We are finally about to set off, and we don't know what awaits us on the road of life and death ahead. Tao Wei didn't say a word, but Lan chattered non-stop.I was a little excited, but also a little apprehensive, and I kept saying "Modog, I'm coming" in my heart! Walk along the Zha-Mo Highway from the county seat, and after passing the gut-like gravel road, start winding up the mountain.The weather here is cloudy and cloudy, and it will rain from time to time. The narrow road is littered with rocks, and the wheels are crushed, leaving deep marks on the soil. From time to time there are stones rolling down the mountain, watching them fall into the abyss, can't help but feel frightened.We have been circling the edge of the cliff, in addition to being nervous, there is no mood to think about anything else.

Tao Wei is a good driver. Although we dived, climbed and twisted with the car, there was no fear of rushing to hell.But, who said that it is easy to go all the way to 24K? All the way forward at a super slow speed, swaying close to the 27K Galong Snow Mountain.It has long been heard that the road leading to Medog can only be entered and exited for more than three months every year, and the glaciers and snow accumulation of Galong Mountain are one of the major reasons. As you climb up the mountain, you can gradually see Galong Temple in the green bushes.Although there is nothing special about the architecture of this temple, it also looks unique because it is in such a peaceful and peaceful place and integrated with the mountains.From time to time, there are birds chirping and insects singing. No wonder it becomes a summer resort for Lamas of Duodong Temple!

When you arrive at the snow mountain pass, you can see that the cliffs are covered with glaciers.Standing at the pass, the way of coming and the way of going are like two very different worlds, one side is cloudy and breezy, and you can see thousands of miles; the other side is densely forested.Above this mountain pass, layers of water vapor are blocked, forming clouds and mist, covering our sight. On the north side of the mountain pass, there are three adjacent small lakes, which are Galong Tianchi.Tianchi reflects the glacier and the vegetation by the lake, changing colorful colors from time to time.On the surface of the water, there is a slow-flowing mist.

The top of the mountain was very cold. Because of the tension along the way, the clothes behind us were soaked. We didn't dare to stay longer. We stood under the prayer flags and took pictures before continuing on our way. The road down the mountain from the pass is very steep. From a distance, some road sections are almost vertical, but the lower altitude makes the roadside scenery gradually beautiful.The climate zone in the geography class affects the distribution of vegetation, and here you can see the realistic version of the portrayal. After going down the mountain for more than ten kilometers and reaching 52K, we decided to get out of the car and have lunch. If the road ahead is more difficult and dangerous, we can only eat some dry food in the car.

From 52K forward, tree trunks fallen on the ground can be seen from time to time on the road. In the road section where mudslides have occurred, there are countless huge rocks lying horizontally. Sometimes, there will be waterfalls directly hitting the roof of the car from above.I am very fortunate that I came in with Tao Wei's off-road vehicle, instead of delusional riding a motorcycle into Medog. Gradually getting used to the state of the road, we felt much more relaxed.There are many strange flowers and plants in the primeval forest. Lan and I fussed and screamed one after another, almost without stopping.

I love those big bowls of flowers, all kinds of colors, the color matching of petals and stamens is just wonderful.Lan likes those bunches of small flowers, elegant blue or pink.Water flows through the road from time to time, and stones are not missing along the way.Fungi began to grow on the rotting fallen logs, and we drove through the land where the thick leaves had rotted and saw vines climbing the giant trees. In order to avoid the attack of leeches, the windows were kept tightly closed.But for some reason, when he reached 62K, there were still two full-fed leeches on the back of Tao Wei's neck, and the anti-inflammatory drugs we brought came in handy.When resting at 62K, we rubbed the whole body with essential oils, and were fully armed. Except for the face, everything else was tightly bandaged. After drinking a bowl of buttered tea at a small shop, we set out on the road.From here to 80K, there are large fir forests along the road. It was already five o'clock in the afternoon when we arrived at 80K, we decided to rest here for one night and enter Medog County the next day. This has always been an important stop for entering Medog, where food and rest can be supplemented.In addition to the hotel, there are several restaurants, and there are some broken woods scattered all over the roadside. When transporting materials from Bomi to Medog, it is usually here that the goods are unloaded from the truck and replaced by porters to carry them into Medog County.There are a lot of backpackers coming and going, coming and going in groups in restaurants and inns. As soon as we settled down, it started to rain cats and dogs.I wonder if it will affect tomorrow's itinerary? At this time, we can't control so much, we lay down on the bed, rested for a while, got up, washed up and had dinner.The food tasted pretty good and the three of us ate it all up. It wasn't until I went to bed at night that the rain slowly stopped. Probably because I was nervous all the way, and I felt tired when I rested, and I had no dreams all night. When I woke up, I felt that my energy had been restored, so I packed my luggage and went straight to the road. The road from 80K to Medog is more difficult and dangerous, and a mule road is the best road for us to get to Medog.As long as the engine is not turned off, Tao Wei basically does not need to put into gear. The plants on the side of the road beat the car windows from time to time. Our speed is not much faster than walking. The potholed trails often pass small landslides and landslides. Know if this can be called a "road"! Sitting in the car, I looked at the swaying primeval forest on the hillside, and remembered that when I was fifteen years old, I took a sea boat from Dalian to Shanghai. At this moment, it was like encountering a stormy sea, and there was hardly a second of stability. I like this place very much. There are vines everywhere, tropical plantains, inedible ferns, and all kinds of beautiful exotic flowers and plants, forming a green corridor, which makes the environment very charming. However, behind this charming scenery, there is a terrifying danger.The matchstick-sized leeches are attached to the branches and grass leaves, ready to jump to your collar, trouser legs, ears and other places at any time, and will suck your blood fiercely after fascinating you.The most frightening thing is that you don't feel any pain at all, and it will rest comfortably on your skin after it is full.If it is not detected by this time, it will continue to suck when it is hungry.When sucking, no matter how much you pull, you can't pull it off.I don't know why this ugly thing without eyes and ears can jump one meter away without any mistakes! On the side of the road ahead, there was a huge uprooted tree lying down. Tao Wei carefully walked around it. After turning up and down a few hills, the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon appeared in front of him. In the depths of the cliff, there is a roaring torrent rushing between the ravines. Looking around, a silvery white ribbon twists and turns around the mountainside.The Yarlung Zangbo River flows through the territory of Medog, and turns into a magnificent big bend at the Namjagbarwa Peak. The majestic mountain peaks rise straight into the sky, and on the other side is the Jiala Bailei Peak. Legend has it that the gods sent Nanga Bawa and Jiala Bailei to guard the southeast. The younger brother Jiala Bailei was tall and diligent, with superb martial arts. The elder brother was jealous and killed his younger brother one night and threw his head in Milin. The county turned into Dela Mountain.After the gods knew about it, they punished Namjag Bawa to stay by the Yarlung Zangbo River forever to accompany his brother who was killed by him. Both sides of the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon are covered with dense forests. Because of the steep cliffs on both sides, the terrain of this section of the road is dangerous, sparsely populated, and misty clouds make this land full of mysterious tranquility.Tibetans advocate religion, and there are many temples in the Yarlung Zangbo River valley. No matter where you go, you can often hear the distant bells flowing in the mountains and valleys. The altitude is getting lower and lower, and as the field of vision gradually expands, the green in front of us is too thick to melt, and the river water forms fine white waves, bypassing trees, rushing over stones, and rushing to their destination. Along the way, you can also see the construction team cleaning up the landslide area during the August rainy season, and occasionally you can see abandoned vehicles, which are probably the wreckage after the accident.I don't know, can this hellish journey really take people to heaven? Here, two hiking backpackers stopped the car and asked Tao Wei to lead them across the road ahead.We squeezed.There are especially many waterfalls on this section of the road. The water falls from the sky and hits the road directly, forming a stream.The off-road vehicle passed by, and the rushing waterfall rushed to the roof. When we were chatting, Tao Wei held the steering wheel carefully without saying a word. The windows of the car were covered by splashing water, so he could not see the road clearly.If one is not careful, it will be beyond redemption. Before long, the wheels sank into the mud, but fortunately two hitchhikers were there to help push the car out.It was already eleven o'clock when it reached 118K safely.They got out of the car to say goodbye to us. When we arrived at Miri Village, we were very close to Medog County.I asked, "Would you like to have a full meal together?" Tao Wei immediately objected. He said that Miri Village is a place where the Monba people gather. If you don't want to die, it's best not to eat there.Originally, the words of the buddy who served as a soldier in Medog had already dispelled my fear of Gu poison, but Tao Wei's serious expression reminded me of the horror described in those materials on the Internet. Regardless of whether or not the Monba tribe will casually trick outsiders, we don't have a second life to experiment with, so Lan and I listened to Tao Wei and ate dry food in the car for lunch. Going forward, you will arrive at Madi Village. Dozens of families spread out along the hillside, but the small wooden houses have iron roofs. Across the Yarlung Zangbo River and the village on the other side of the village, it reminds people of the story of a folk song in a novel.It is said that this peculiar iron roof is to prevent rain. Every year, the rainstorm pours down in the rainy season, and the wooden roof cannot resist it, so there is such a wonder. The last section of the road was very narrow and muddy, and we were probably approaching the destination. Tao Wei, who was not very talkative along the way, also began to hum softly. Lan and I both laughed and yelled in tune with him.Unexpectedly, this relaxation almost caused a major accident. There is a very steep uphill turn here. Due to the slippery road, the grip is not so secure. When Tao Wei was negligent, the off-road vehicle started to reverse.There are cliffs behind. If Tao Wei hadn't been overwhelmed and stopped the car in time, we might never be able to get out of Medog! A small episode made all three of us sweat and sweat. On this road of life and death, we never dare to neglect in the slightest. From a distance, we can already see the city of Medog, but we dare not worry any more. You must know that haste makes waste!In the last hour, we slowly waded across the stream, rushed through the potholed path, and entered Medog County. To be honest, the environment in front of me makes me unable to be excited. After going through so many difficulties and obstacles, why is it just an ordinary county town to arrive at the legendary holy land of lotus?Shouldn't this piece of world in a deep boudoir have amazing beauty? You can buy everything in Medog County, and the red roofs meander along the road to the hillside.There are not many people on the street, and from time to time, children of the Moinba ethnic group can be seen playing at the foot of the outer wall. When you go out of the county town and go to the countryside, you can see small wooden houses, which are quite similar to the stilted buildings in western Hunan, and have the style of Southeast Asia.Outside the house, there is a big plantain tree. Looking at the large green leaves, one can't help but feel the poetic taste of the rain hitting the plantain. I remember that when I was reviewing for the postgraduate entrance examination, everyone studied day and night every day. On a rainy day, the girl who lived in the opposite dormitory took me to pick banana leaves, took them back to the dormitory, washed them, and tore them into strips two fingers wide. , Wrapped with glutinous rice, some wrapped with red dates, it is said that the ones with red dates are women, and the ones without are men.Then we didn't review for a whole day, and hid in their dormitory to steam pastries and eat them. In the territory of Medog, besides the scenery being talked about by people, there are also two ethnic groups living here - Monba and Lhoba.Qu Ni, a religious painter of the Moinba ethnic group, told people that Medog looks like the goddess Dorjipam lying on her back. This hidden lotus-like sacred place is composed of the goddess’s holy body. This mysterious religious color is deeply rooted Into the hearts of the Monba people. In the 9th century, Padmasambhava, the founder of the Red Sect and the master of Tantric Buddhism, came to Medog to promote Buddhism. He created "Baiyu Qinbo Baimagang".It is said that there are 16 small holy places in this holy place, so it is called the most holy holy place.The legend about this holy land gradually spread throughout Tibet, and people thought it was a place where happiness was hidden, so they migrated one after another. In the 18th century, in order to settle down in this happy place and to avoid the oppression of feudal serfdom, the Menba people of the six households in the Menyu area trekked over mountains and ridges, trekking along the Brahmaputra River. blocking.They will gift the beads to get through.Later, he was hindered by the Lhoba people in Jiduo Village, and finally arrived in Medog Village, where he negotiated with the Lhoba people and gave them gifts. Only then did he borrow a piece of land and a forest. Later, Menba people from Menyu moved in one after another, forming a village. However, the Lhoba people believe that they are the masters here, and the Monba people are outsiders who moved in from Menyu.With the continuous growth of the Monba people, the initial sympathy of the Lhoba people for them has turned into a struggle for living space and interests.Their mentality was just taken advantage of by King Bomi. In order to expand the Bomi regime to Medog, he provoked disputes between the Monba and Lhoba tribes.After several battles, both sides suffered heavy losses, so they made an alliance in Didong Village, with Yangsang River as the boundary, Menba in the north and Lhoba in the south.