Chapter 2 Appreciation of Preface to the Treasures Remains of the Former Dynasties

After all the calculations, the Chinese nation really only has food culture, which is enough to rule the world.When Confucius already advocated "never tire of fine food, never tire of fine meat", Europeans were basically still drinking blood.With the development of Western food to this day, you are still asking how mature your steak is, and the side dishes are almost always the old three-potatoes, onions, and tomatoes.And our recipes have long been filled, and the ingredients have been sent to the sea, exhausting everything.What can such a gap explain? A nation that focuses on eating and drinking seems to have been hungry for thousands of years.Even the occasional fullness of food and drink has not spilled out the civilization of science and technology and system.We are passed down from generation to generation like a foodie. Everyone is born to be an insatiable cook, hunting for beauty and food in this world.Sometimes it also becomes food in troubled times, and is put on other people's knives...

Since ancient times, repairing a family tree may implicate the nine families, so scholars have no choice but to study recipes.The hunger and cold of spiritual life does not prevent us from chomping through the gates—indulging in the feast of imagination.Since the current world is not enough to talk about, then when we look at the previous dynasty with drunk eyes, maybe from the dim lights of the singing feast, we can still get a glimpse of the eating scenes of men and women in the Republic of China, as well as the historical relics beyond the cup. Ermao and I both grew and developed in the Wuling Mountains.Up and down the same river, they all belong to the Tujia nationality, a nation that is hungry most of the time.Because of lack of food when we were young, it is easy to develop the indiscriminate eating and drinking and domineering in our youth.Like a chronic illness becoming a doctor, a person who eats food is always an alternate member of the gourmet.Therefore, we all developed into private chefs through the poetry movement in the 1980s, and then wandered on the road of food and beauty, and finally became our own masters.

I haven't seen a contemporary who can use poetry to win over food and sex like Ermao, making Chinese and dishes sexy.Reading his poems and even recipes can be as full as taking aphrodisiacs.If you add a few flavors of his unique delicacies, as well as privately brewed wild wine, the younger generation who is not strong enough will probably be in heat easily-a glass of wine is bound to form a bond for the next life. My personal friendship with him for many years is just like the gangsters at the dinner table, falling in love as if two cups of three cups can cut off the head and change the neck.Over the years, wherever his restaurants have been opened, I have chased them with my greedy lips and teeth.The place where his wine flag is swaggering is Yan'an in the eyes of our generation.

From western Sichuan to northern Beijing, from western city to eastern city, I followed a fat man who walked out of the mountains of my home like a fly, dismounted after smelling the fragrance, and high-fived our vagabond years.How many times have I been lying drunk in his lobby, covered with an oily apron by the passionate chef, and resurrected from the dead like the dawn of the willow bank and the waning moon. An era has its own eating phase.Back then, Mr. Acheng wrote that their generation of educated youths "eat poorly", and Ermao and I should eat very "fiercely" in many cases.Compared with the eating habits of the generation of scholars in the Republic of China, we are really a miserable generation of foodies.

Ermao's food essays are the masterpieces of a poet and a chef, so they are quite different from ordinary heretics.From "Mom's Firewood Stove", it seems that he has leapfrogged from Jianghu cuisine to mansion cuisine. What he has changed is not just recipes, nor techniques such as adding oil and vinegar, but going deep into the history of history, and the process of drinking thin wine on a plate. In the lingering fragrance of the pulse, we can identify and find a new way to interpret history. We perceive the so-called Wei and Jin demeanor from the details of eating, drinking, sitting and lying.Similarly, we can also get a glimpse of the elegance or luxury of the so-called Republic of China style from these essays.An era has passed away, and after drinking and lighting, the shadows of clothes and temples have turned into smoke and dust everywhere.And in the midst of such pervasive mundane dust, us nostalgic gluttons can still smell those remnants of drunkenness in this world that has already changed cups and cups...

This is the order.