Chapter 16 Changsha Stinky Tofu

Stinky tofu is an outstanding representative of Changsha famous dishes. A famous expert once commented: If you have not eaten stinky tofu in Changsha, you have not been to Changsha.This is a very classic sentence, and it is also the main driving force that pushes stinky tofu to the top of Hunan cuisine. Now in Changsha, there is no need to worry about eating stinky tofu. The supply of stinky tofu has been completely improved, and it is developing towards polarization. The best stinky tofu is the most famous in Huogong Palace. , uses stinky tofu as its signature dish; the most authoritative one is Jiusuo (Guesthouse of the Provincial Party Committee), which has raised the price of a piece of stinky tofu to the current RMB 108; diners are also familiar with Yuloudong, a century-old restaurant. , Wu Yu at the south gate.The stinky tofu that ordinary people like is in the stalls in the streets and alleys. At the corners of the streets and alleys in Changsha, you can find fried stinky tofu stalls under the light of dusk. There is a master standing next to a tricycle. The tofu is chirping in the oil pan, like a happy little mouse dancing.The smell of stinky tofu can be smelled from a long distance. In fact, it is a scent that attracts diners. In Changsha at night, the smell of stinky tofu is everywhere. In literary terms, the whole city of Changsha is filled with the smell of stinky tofu. Like a layer of fog enveloped the city of petty bourgeoisie.

The stinky tofu is not very stinky, but the brine that ferments the tofu has a stinky smell. The stinky smell is wafting when it is fried. It is full of fragrance, and the name of stinky tofu is just its appearance, so as a foreign visitor, you must know that it is not stinky. The main production of stinky tofu lies in the excellent production of brine.The brine is boiled with tempeh, soda ash, green alum, shiitake mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots, salt, Maotai wine, etc., cooled for 15 days and then soaked in tofu.The stinky tofu in Fire Palace is more particular. Tofu is made after the winter solstice. The brine is boiled with pickled mustard juice, amaranth stinky water from stinky amaranth, tempeh water, soup for cooking Laba beans, shiitake mushroom feet, winter bamboo shoots, and shrimp shells, and then simmered. , discard the dregs to get the juice, add 10% Shaoxing wine and 10% old brine into a pottery jar with a wide mouth and big belly, soak tofu, cover it tightly with sandbags and let it ferment, and it can be taken out and processed as dishes.

The stinky tofu in Changsha City was created by Liu Taoyun and Sheng Chun, two direct disciples of Jiang Erdi, a generation of kitchen masters, in Huogong Palace and Rongyuan Hotel (i.e. Jiusuo) respectively.Because of the favor of national leaders, friends in the political circles and press circles of the United States, Britain, France and other countries are attracted to taste it, especially the reporter of the American "Food" magazine made a special trip to Changsha to interview stinky tofu, making it "notorious" far and wide. The real stinky tofu should be fried stinky tofu at roadside stalls.After deep-fried, the aroma is tangy, take it out and put it on the edge of the pot to cool for a while, then use chopsticks to smash the middle of the tofu, put it in a bowl, pour chili soup, and add garlic rice.If you eat radish sticks, you can also mix some radish sticks in the chili soup.The stinky tofu is fresh and refreshing, fragrant and crunchy, tender and not greasy, and has a unique flavor that is unforgettable after eating.