Chapter 3 2.diet

Liang Shiqiu's classmate Zhang Xinyi is from Gansu, and likes to eat onions and garlic; his wife is from Jiangsu, and her family is forbidden to eat onions and garlic.Once when Zhang Xin arrived in Qingdao, Liang Shiqiu had a banquet at home, and Zhang asked Liang to prepare a plate of green onions for him in advance.Liang Congqi prepared enough scallions and a few homemade cakes.After the guests arrived, they devoured the pancakes and rolls with scallions, and they were exhausted in an instant. They were sweating profusely, and did not move their chopsticks to the other dishes on the table.Zhang told Liang that this was his first satisfying meal in years.

In 1929, after Jiang Feng's defeat in the war against Feng Yuxiang, he was tricked by Yan Xishan to Shanxi and placed under house arrest. "Ta Kung Pao" reporter Xu Zhucheng was sent to interview.Shi Feng lived in Jian'an Village, Wutai County, Yan Xishan's hometown. Before that, Xu had interviewed Feng at Jinci, so he was an acquaintance.That night Feng Yuxiang invited Xu Zhucheng to have a meal together. The dishes were very simple, four pots of meat and vegetables plus a hot pot.When Feng's subordinates launched an army against Chiang, Xu asked Feng about the situation of the war and whether there was any news of victory.Feng smiled and replied: "My news, how can you reporters be smart. To tell you the truth, my only source of news now is this." Feng pointed to the hot pot on the table with his chopsticks and said, "Every time, they have finished cooking. , there are meat slices and meatballs in the hot pot; if there are only cabbage and vermicelli today, then they must have failed. This is something I have tried repeatedly. Today, look, there are a lot of meat slices, meatballs, and a few sea cucumbers , It seems that we must have won another big victory."

After the failure of the Nanchang Uprising, Ye Ting and Nie Rongzhen lived in Hong Kong.After wandering for several days, they were short of money. In order to save money, they chose a morning tea shop near the pond for dinner.At that time, small restaurants settled accounts by counting the plates on the table, Ye Ting secretly threw the finished plates into the pond while eating. Shang Zhen was known as the "General of the Five Oceans", that is, he wore foreign clothes, ate foreign food, lived in foreign houses, rode foreign horses, and played foreign balls.His family employs a western chef.When Shang Zhen was the commander of the army, he summoned the chiefs of staff of the three divisions under his command to discuss matters at his home. The meal was served with western food, and there were two other guests at the same table.The two obviously didn't know much about how to eat western food, so they mistakenly drank a pot of water used for washing their hands as soup. To avoid embarrassing the two, Shang Zhen also deliberately drank a spoonful, saying: "The boiled water , you can drink."

Pan Fu, a Beiyang politician, had a quirk. When eating, he had to place a chopstick on his own plate with every dish.If someone else moves the chopsticks first, he will not hold up the chopsticks for that kind of dish.This is true whether you are dining out or at home. The last emperor Puyi once recalled the scene when he ate Western food for the first time: "I asked the eunuch to buy Western food at the Liuguo Hotel. The store asked: 'How many copies do you want to buy?' The eunuch said: 'Anyway, take more!' The store asked The eunuch sent someone to set up knives and forks, but the eunuch said, "How can it be done! You can't go to the palace. We can set it up ourselves!" Well, a large table was filled with big bowls and dishes, and there were surprisingly many dishes. I Seeing a sticky dish of butter, I didn't know how to eat it, so I said to the eunuch, "Taste it!" They took a bite, and said repeatedly, "It's too bad, too bad!" Remember, the soup is made from turtles, and it's also terrible."

Zaiyi, the county king at the end of the Qing Dynasty, served in the Northwest for more than 20 years after the Gengzi Incident.He was a drinker by nature, claiming he never knew what it was like to be drunk.He settled down in the Mansion of King Luo of Mongolia in Alxa, and often had overnight drinks with King Luo, and he could drink three or four catties of liquor in one night.Back then, Zaiyi was the main combat faction. After drinking once, he told King Luo: The combined armies of the eight countries are only tens of thousands.If the war is defeated, the imperial court can move the capital, and then mobilize the whole country to fight again.The empress dowager's fault was that she only knew about Beijing and only wanted to go back to the palace... The Qing Dynasty was broken by the word "harmony".

Li Quantai, the owner of Tianjin Taichang Foreign Co., Ltd. once celebrated his birthday. He was the host of a branch of a well-known commercial firm. He used the eight-eight (64 dishes) high-quality banquet of Yihecheng Restaurant. A table cost about tens of yuan. Back then, a bag of flour was only binary.There are 20 tables in one set.During the dinner, the guests praised the braised duck and the braised shark's fin well.The next day coincided with the Mid-Autumn Festival, Li Shouxing was so happy that he called the owner of the restaurant and said: "The masters said that today's dishes are well done, and tomorrow will be the same as before. Make 20 tables for me until the end of this month. Eat here." This time, Li Quantai spent more than 8,000 yuan.

During the Anti-Japanese War, the enemy and puppet organization in North China wanted Cao Rulin to serve as a pseudo-post in the Food Bureau.Cao has learned some lessons from the past and said: "The Japanese are not restricted in eating food. How can I control the Chinese? Isn't this scolding?" A kind of mixed noodle made of scum.One day, Cao brought the mixed noodle corn bread to the pseudo-North China Political Affairs Committee, and said to the traitor leader Wang Kemin: "How can the common people swallow such food!" After hearing this, Wang Kemin picked up the corn bread and took a bite, saying: "This Why the hell can't you eat it!"

When Feng Yuxiang was an army inspector, he suffered from small intestinal hernia and recuperated at home.One day, Li Yuanhong went to see Feng. Feng took the opportunity to complain to Li, saying that the soldiers in the army could only eat millet rice every day, and hoped that Li Yuanhong would allocate more food. I love to eat." Before his execution, Qu Qiubai wrote at the end of "Excessive Words": "Chinese tofu is also delicious, and it is the best in the world." "Shengfangcai" started in Ba County, Hebei Province, and later moved to Tianjin, becoming one of the famous "Eight Masters of Tianjin".By the third generation, the diet has been extravagant, arbitrary and even omniscient.Cai Ciquan must eat sweets early in the morning, and he must renovate every day. There is a special dessert chef at home.Cai's family raised many ducks, and they used glutinous rice as feed, and cooked soup after feeding them. Cai only drank soup and did not eat meat.Cai You likes purple crabs and whitebait, but he only eats live ones.Every winter, people are sent to wait on the fishing boats at the mouth of the Sancha River day and night in turn to catch live whitebait (the whitebait dies shortly after it comes out of the water).

Ma Qichang was the "Dianshan" of the presidential palace in Yuan Shikai's era. He was in charge of Yuan's private kitchen and had more than 20 servants under his management.Yuan Shikai's food expenses were originally 100 yuan per day. One day Yuan asked Ma: "How much do I spend on meals a day?"Yuan had to drink chicken soup every day, and Liu, who was in charge of cooking the soup, was a special person brought over by Yuan from his post as the governor of Zhili in Tianjin. After retirement, he inherited his father's business. Yuan Shikai ate two meals a day.He is from Henan, but he doesn't eat the food from his hometown. Instead, a cook named Xu from Tianjin cooks the dishes, making them taste like Tianjin.It is said that Xu Dong went to the stove in winter, wearing a fox-leg leather jacket with a blue satin face, which obviously followed Yuan's fortune (Tianjin dialect, read four times).

Writer Li Zhun grew up in rural Henan.During the Anti-Japanese War, when he was studying at Dade Middle School, he encountered a severe drought in Henan, and the school's food standards were repeatedly reduced.First, the supply of steamed buns was stopped, and noodles were eaten twice a day.Among the classmates, Li Zhun is not very old and tall.When the meal is ready, two large pots of noodles are carried out, and a strong student squeezes to the front, each holding a long spoon to scoop up the noodles.These children's "fishing skills" are also superb. Stir them with a spoon, and then fish them again, and the thick ones will go into the bowl.When a single, weak and young child like Li Zhun came to him, there was often only half a pot of noodle soup left.With the development of the drought, Pian'er soup was no longer available, and began to "run away".Li Zhun recalled: "I go home every Sunday and recite some sweet potato noodle buns, and my mother bakes rolls and some leek flowers, and carries them to school. I eat some dry biscuits and drink some boiled water every day."

As a passionate young man, Chen Qiang first went to Yan'an, entered Luyi, and then drove to the enemy's rear with the army of literature and art.During this period, marching day and night, crossing mountains and ridges, prepared for hardships, and often could not eat a decent meal for several days.One day, the troops arrived at a village called Zhangguzhuang in the Taihang Mountains to rest, and the border government sent food.They are all like hungry wolves, no one can hug them, no matter they are men or women.Chen Qiang ate four big jars of noodles in one go.According to his recollection, each person ate an average of two catties for that meal.Later, the doctor accompanying the team advised everyone to eat less, saying that it was a problem of gastric dilatation. The authentic nun has been in the temple for nearly 60 years. She recalled in her later years: "After entering the temple, you must eat vegetarian food. There are two kinds of vegetarian food. One is to eat whole vegetarian food, or to be a vegetarian for a long time. You can't eat fish, meat, onions, garlic, and even eggs. You can’t eat it either, but you can only eat tofu and vegetables. Then you eat Huazhai, that is, you eat vegetarian food every June, the twelfth lunar month, and the first and fifteenth day of each lunar month. You can eat meat at other times. Usually, the master eats whole meat. If the master eats the Huazhai, the apprentice also eats the Huazhai.” Genuine is a native of Shandong, who learned how to cook in a temple and once served in the kitchen. Yu Qiaqing likes to eat pig offal.There is a Ningbo restaurant named Tonghualou near the Yu Mansion. The dish of "Bao Botou" in the restaurant is not seen in other Ningbo restaurants, and it is said that it was taught by Yu Qiaqing himself.This dish is to cut pig intestines, heart, liver, lungs and so on into thin slices, stew them in a casserole for several hours until the pig offal is crispy, and then eat it with marinade. It is said that it has an infinite taste.For a long time, Yu Qiaqing came here for lunch every day, always two bowls of rice and one bowl, and left after eating. Nianhua Temple is a famous temple in the capital. During the period of the Republic of China, the monks in the temple were divided into different levels and lived very different lives.The abbot eats milk in the morning and white fungus in the evening. Although it is vegetarian, it is still a delicacy, and the price is higher than that of meat.Slightly inferior to the abbot are the "middle-level cadres" in the temple, that is, some "official" monks. They eat four dishes and one soup every meal, and eat noodles every five days. .Generally, Qing people eat two dry and one thin every day, eat coarse grains at noon and evening, eat white rice every other day, eat steamed buns on the first and fifteenth day of the lunar new year, and the non-staple food is big pot vegetables and pickles. Back then, the high-ranking lay Buddhists in the capital were honored as honored guests by various temples. Once they entered the temple, the whole temple had to follow along, fearing that the reception would not be good enough, and they did not care about any prohibitions.The wife of the great layman Zheng Wenxuan had to go to the abbot's room to smoke opium every time she came to Nianhua Temple.Once, the kitchen forgot to make almond tofu, and Mrs. Zheng was very dissatisfied. Before leaving, she said: "I will never come to Nianhua Temple again." Half a day of stinky training. Several years after Li Shutong became a monk, once, Li Hongliang, a student he had taught in Zhejiang Normal University, visited the temple.Master Hongyi said: It is a coincidence that you came here. Today we eat "Arhat cuisine" in the temple, and you have lunch here.When the meal was ready, Li saw six bowls of dishes on the table. Master Hongyi changed into rags, pointed to the two bowls of the same dish on the table and said to Li, "This is Arhat cuisine." He then explained the other four dishes with different colors. He specially told the kitchen to add it temporarily. It can be seen that monks usually only have one dish for lunch.The so-called Luohan cuisine is a kind of assorted vegetables such as broad beans, cowpeas, eggplants, etc. that are boiled in white water and added with a little salt. All kinds of vegetables can fully maintain their original flavor.Master Hongyi probably preferred this one, so he ate three bowls of rice with Arhat dishes that day. Master Yinguang is the predecessor of Master Hongyi. His eating style is similar to that of Hongyi.Yin Guang is a native of Shaanxi. He likes to eat steamed buns. He only has a bowl of rough vegetables for each meal. At the end, he must wipe the bowls clean with steamed buns and eat them, or drink the vegetable base with boiling water as soup.He traveled all over his life. When he lived in Taiping Temple in Shanghai, a layman named Guan invited him to eat vegetarian food.What's more, when he traveled to Baoguo Temple in Suzhou, once because the soy sauce used in the dishes was a bit better, he gave a lecture to Master Mingdao in the temple. Sister Liu Shujing said that the nun's main meals are rice porridge and steamed rolls, sometimes steamed corn bread, and most of the pickles are pickled radishes, and there are only stir-fried vegetables for lunch.The dean can eat white buns, sugar and fruits.In addition, the "Lent" prescribed by the church must be strictly observed by the nunnery.For example, every Friday is the "Saturday Saturday" of the Catholic Church, and it is forbidden to eat livestock meat or other warm-blooded animal meat on this day, except for cold-blooded animal meat such as fish and shrimp.For ordinary nuns, this rule is useless, because they rarely eat meat throughout the year. In the early years of the Republic of China, Prince Tulugut of Mongolia went from Xinjiang to Beijing to meet President Yuan Shikai.When passing through Ganzhou, I went to visit Zaiyi who was living there.The next day, Zaiyi hosted a banquet for the prince and his daughter.Prince Tulugut's daughter was about fourteen or fifteen years old at the time, with a serene and dignified demeanor, which Zaiyi liked very much.Zaiyi asked her what she likes to eat, and he has a good cook to cook for her, so he kept asking.The prince's daughter replied: I like to eat noodles with mutton. Xu Yalun practiced medicine in Tianjin all the year round, and was once the permanent doctor of Yuan Shikai's family. In the summer of 1923, Yuan's granddaughter Yuan Jiahong fell ill, and Xu went to see a doctor.The Yuan family kept him for dinner. At that time, Xu's father died of illness within a hundred days. According to the southern folk custom, he had to eat vegetarian food for a hundred days. He explained the situation.The child's grandma, Wu Shi, said: "It's easy to handle, so I'll make you a few vegetarian dishes." Later, six dishes were served—vegetarian assorted, fried bean curd skin, pigeon eggs, fried shrimp, braised carp, and white fungus soup.At first Xu didn't move his chopsticks to the fish and shrimp. Seeing this, Mrs. Wu smiled and said, "Don't worry, eat it, it's all vegetarian." Xu was quite surprised, so he left a doctor for a quick meal, and he was able to cook a delicious vegetarian dish right away. .Yuan Shikai has been dead for seven or eight years, but the vegetarian chef in his family is not "vegetarian". Sun Danlin was once an important figure under Wu Peifu.After the May 4th Movement, once Sun went to Beijing and stayed at the Jintai Hotel.One morning, after visiting the Summer Palace with Bai Jianwu, I went to Li Dazhao's apartment in Xizhimen Inner South Street for lunch.Li Dazhao was already a professor at Peking University and a celebrity at this time.The meal was simple. Li Dazhao went out and bought a few eggs, a piece of meat and a pinch of bean sprouts, and his wife cooked them.Sun later sighed and said: "This gentleman's self-serving frugality and sincerity in hospitality, and his demeanor of Mao Rong treating Guo Linzong, are awe-inspiring." According to memories, Chiang Kai-shek usually eats three dishes and one soup when he eats Western food, and six dishes and one soup when he eats Chinese food. These are all fixed.If he went out to inspect, his food was prepared in Nanjing, and two chefs took the first plane to a certain place to prepare his meals. Jiang never ate meals cooked by local chefs.Jiang also eats Chinese food in the "Western style", that is, he uses two sets of chopsticks and spoons, one can be imported, and the other is only used to pick up vegetables and scoop soup and cannot be eaten. When Tang Enbo was the commander-in-chief of the 31st Army, he ate a big pot of rice with all the officers and soldiers on the surface, but secretly ordered his subordinates to prepare meals for him alone in his residence. Tang said: "I have a stomach problem, so I can't eat rice. Eat steamed buns." In the late period of the Anti-Japanese War, the leaders of the Japanese invaders such as Kagezuo Shaki and Okamura Ningji once invited Wang Jingwei to dinner at the Sino-Japanese Cultural Palace in Nanjing.During the banquet, they took turns toasting Wang's Japanese wine until Wang was drunk.It was this drunkenness that caused the attack of the wound Wang was assassinated many years ago. Although the bullet was removed through surgery, it finally killed Wang Jingwei. In the Central Plains War, Yan Xishan was defeated and went to the field, and secretly went to Tianjin.He asked the chef to make a pocket of biscuits for consumption along the way.He disguised himself as an ordinary passenger, wearing a long robe and mandarin jacket, and old cotton shoes, and took a third-class passenger car. In April 1928, Chiang Kai-shek took his new wife Song Meiling to live in Xikou.Mao Fumei, Jiang's first wife, asked the chef to cook a lot of Jiang's favorite hometown dishes and snacks, and sent them to Jiang Song's residence in Laoting, including roasted taro with chicken sauce, roasted pork with dried vegetables, etc.Soong Meiling usually eats more Western food, but after tasting such a local taste, she has a big appetite and is full of praise.When Jiang Song left his hometown, the Mao family specially asked someone to prepare a sack of high-quality taro for Song Meiling. After Jiang Song became husband and wife, although they became a family, their tastes were different.Song Meiling is used to eating Western food, preferring grilled chicken and pork chops; Chiang Kai-shek likes to eat hometown dishes such as shredded pork and pickled vegetable soup, roasted pork with dried vegetables, and large yellow croaker with pickled vegetables.They also often treat guests, and the dishes they prepare are very ordinary and the quantity is not large.It is said that some people came out to say that they were not full after eating at Jiang's house. Naturally, there was a cautious factor in it, but it was also related to the lack of ample food. Chiang Kai-shek didn't drink at all, but Chiang Ching-kuo used a lot of alcohol.Chiang Ching-kuo has several preferences when drinking: accompanied by chicken heads and chicken feet; finger-guessing; pouring people;Once at his hometown in Xikou, Jiang Jingguo inquired who was a heavy drinker, and someone recommended a member of the chamber of commerce, Chang Jiang, so Jiang Jingguo invited him to have a drink with him.When he was in Chongqing, one day Chiang Ching-kuo invited Wu Linsun, Chiang Kai-shek's attendant doctor, to Huangshan for a picnic with canned food and wine. It is said that he was drunk by Jiang Jingguo, so he will not be held accountable. When Chiang Ching-kuo was an economic special commissioner in Shanghai, he passed by a restaurant one day and was about to go in to eat. He saw a policeman come out after eating a bowl of shredded pork noodles without paying the bill. The owner smiled and saw him off.Jiang then went into the shop and ate a bowl of noodles. He didn't pay, and was about to leave, but was stopped by the boss and his assistant.Jiang asked: "Can the police pay for nothing?" The two sides started arguing.The policeman standing guard on the opposite side ran over when he saw this, pointed at Jiang and yelled at him, and almost made a move.Jiang Jingguo ran to the silk shop next door and called Yu Shuping, director of the Shanghai Police Headquarters. Yu immediately arrived with armed men and arrested the police.The hapless policeman was later sentenced to two years in prison. Chiang Kai-shek loved to eat taro.When he was in Chongqing, he once saw baked sweet potatoes at the corner near De'anli's residence, so he asked someone to buy them and ate them up. When national capitalist Fan Xudong started his business in Tianjin, although the conditions were difficult, he always attached great importance to the welfare of workers.Once President Li Yuanhong visited the factory and praised: "The steamed buns eaten by the workers are very white, just like the ones I eat." Wei Xinchen has been in charge of Zhengjinhua accountant for a long time and is a famous comprador in Tianjin.Every time he tasted fresh dishes during entertainment, he asked the cook to prepare them when he came back. Therefore, the food quality in the Jinhua accountant was very good, and it was well-known in the money circle of Tianjin at that time, and it was called "Zizhulin Small Restaurant".There is a table for lunch every day, full of guests every day, and it has been like a day for many years. Shao Gan, a rich man in Northeast China, made three meals a day for his family: coarse grains, corn porridge, and steamed buns in the morning and evening; fine grains, rice porridge or noodles at noon; a family of dozens of people was only allowed to buy a catty of meat a day. Zhang Qun became addicted to alcohol.When Huang Yu presided over the North China Political Affairs Committee, Zhang Chang ordered Jiang to come north to discuss with Huang the compromise plan with Japan.Every time Zhang went to Peiping, Zhou Zuomin, the boss of Jincheng Bank, would hold a banquet in Fengze Garden outside the front door to drink with Zhang.Once Zhang Qunwei sighed after being drunk: "I would like to come to this Fengze Garden every day, but not to that Fengze Garden (referring to Zhongnanhai Huangyu Office)." In the 1920s, the writer Xu Jie worked as a primary school teacher in Linhai, Zhejiang Province. He was a semi-voluntary teacher, with a monthly food allowance of three yuan, barely making ends meet.Xu Jie was very good at living, and gave half of the three yuan to the neighbors to join the occupation, and the remaining one and five yuan was used to buy some side dishes for dinner.At that time, one dollar could be exchanged for more than a hundred copper plates. He put the copper plates in the drawer and counted them every day, limiting his spending to six or seven.Usually, I bought raw tofu for one copper plate in the morning, and bought some side dishes for lunch and dinner. Sometimes I scrambled an egg, and sometimes stewed an egg on the rice cooker. At that time, the egg was less than one copper plate.Sometimes I also spend a copper plate to buy two or three large sesame cakes for supper. The author of "Red Flag Spectrum", Liang Bin, was born in 1914, and his family is in Liangjiazhuang, Li County, Baoding.When he was three or four years old, he followed his father to the market in Xinxing Town, three miles away, for no other reason. At the market, he could lie on the side of the tofu nao seller, eat a bowl of tofu nao, or buy a big fire. , with cooked meat, hugged her in her arms, and ate while walking.Liang Bin later recalled: At this time, I felt a little warmth from my father.The Liang family employed long-term workers, but the whole family of thirty or forty had a better life than ordinary middle peasants. They often cooked a big pot of porridge, a grate of steamed buns, and half a pot of boiled cabbage.I only eat a few meals of white noodles during the festival. After Liang Bin was admitted to the Second Normal School, he and two people from the same village hired a donkey cart to study in Baoding.At noon in Dazhuang town to hit the tip.They didn't eat in the shop because they were afraid that the shopkeeper would spread the food expenses for driving the car on themselves.The corned beef in Dazhuang Town is very famous. The three brothers each bought two big fires, sandwiched the corned beef, and had a "picnic" on the street with a large bowl of boiling water. During the isolated island period, the writer Lin Danqiu and his wife stayed in Shanghai for a while, engaged in progressive literary and artistic work.Lin's wife later recalled: "Since I married him, 360 days a year, most of the days are two meals a day, a salted yellow croaker three or four inches long is our home cooking. At that time, such a small salted yellow croaker It’s the cheapest, and it doesn’t need oil or salt, just steam it.” Translator Li Jiye lived in the countryside of Anhui when he was a child. His uncle was a vegetable grower and let him eat a white radish for free every day.Li Jiye prefers to eat carrots, from childhood to old age, he has never changed his life.In his later years, he said: "Some people say that I don't wear glasses to read and write at the age of eighty, or it has something to do with it." Yu Dafu is good at wine.Once, when Yang Duanliu was entertaining guests at the Sichuan Road Bank Club restaurant, Yu Dafu was drunk and wandered alone on the road, and was arrested by the police and sent to the detention center.Lou Shiyi said that there was a time when Yu Dafu had to drink a lot every day, and he could down seven or eight bottles of beer in one go. Scholar Fei Gong and Shao Quanlin are classmates in middle school. They both care about current affairs, but they have different views.One time Father Shao invited some of Shao Quanlin’s classmates to eat noodles, and they started arguing after they sat down in the noodle restaurant. Father Shao asked them what kind of noodles they would like to eat, and Quanlin Shao answered absently: “Anything.” Father Shao said to the waiter in a loud voice: "Here are five bowls of random noodles." Later, when Shao lived in a pavilion in Shanghai, he often went to Russian restaurants to eat, and asked for a bowl of the cheapest soup, where the black bread was free. Sichuan writer Li Jieren is also a famous gourmet.Not only can eat, but also cook.He has practiced superb cooking skills since he was a child. Li's fellow villager and colleague Sha Ting said that Li Jie's cooking is "very proficient in choosing ingredients, holding knives, seasoning, and using a spatula for cooking."Li Jie himself wrote an article saying: "Chengdu is a fertile plain with thousands of miles away, and it is the central city of the Land of Abundance. The rice is good, the pigs are fat, and there are many varieties of vegetables with thick and tender tastes. In order to taste the top grade." Li Jieren was nicknamed "Jingjing" in middle school, which means that he likes to repair and clean.This is also his style of cooking.When he was studying in France, in order to make smoked rabbits, he insisted on using peanut shells to smoke. He asked two classmates who went shopping to draw peanuts, and they ran all over the corners of Paris, and finally got them in the hands of a gypsy in the suburbs. I bought two catties.Another time, Li Jieren was making bean paste to cook authentic Sichuan dishes. He traveled all over Paris to buy classmates, and finally found a Spanish vendor who imported a few catties of peppers.The vendor was puzzled: "How many lampshades do you have in your house?" It turned out that chili peppers were only used by the locals for lampshade decoration. During the Spring Festival of 1939, Feng Xuefeng received visiting writer Luo Binji at his home in the countryside of Yiwu, Zhejiang.The dinner that day was not rich, but there was no lack of strong local flavor.I drank homemade rice wine, and among the two or three dishes, one was homemade dried vegetables and bamboo shoots steamed with large slices of bacon.The staple food is steamed soba dumplings, stuffed with vegetables, mushrooms, vermicelli, bamboo shoots and so on.The steamed dumplings in Luo Binji's hometown are mainly stuffed with carrots, dried shrimps and cabbage.Decades later, Luo Binji said: "This meal is something I will never forget to this day." Liang Bin claimed that he only had memories when he was three years old. In his later years, he still remembered the scene when he was a child: his mother told him to breastfeed: "Come on, have a bite." Son?" His mother said, "It's four years old, so there's no water left, just drink it." Liang Bin entered the village school at the age of five. Wait, Liang went to see the teacher at noon every day, and he would definitely see him eating dumplings. Sometimes he would let Liang Bin dip some in garlic vinegar to eat. Liang recalled in his later years: It was very fragrant. The poet Zhu Xiang died young, and poverty was one of the main reasons for his death.Zhu ate breakfast at Xu Zhimo's house once, and afterwards said with emotion that there are all kinds of tricks for dumplings alone.Zhu is a southerner, so he naturally likes to eat rice, but when he was studying at Tsinghua University, he mainly ate steamed buns for three meals a day, and occasionally had some money to buy a good dish, so he only ate rice.A classmate invited him to have a "Pie Week" outside the front door. Zhu Xiang was so happy that he could hardly keep his eyes open. On May 30, 1924, Lu Xun invited Xu Qinwen, a friend from his hometown, to Jinyuxuan to drink tea in Zhongshan Park.Lu Xun asked the waiter for a plate of steamed stuffed buns stuffed with winter vegetables just out of the pan. When the heat receded and it was no longer hot, he picked up a steamed stuffed bun and pushed the plate in front of Xu Qinwen with the other hand, saying: "The steamed buns here are delicious." , you can eat; one is enough for me, and you can take care of these!" In the late 1920s, Li Huang entertained Xu Beihong, Jiang Biwei and his wife on Sima Road in Shanghai, and Liang Shiqiu was also present.There is a dish of tofu in oyster sauce in the table - use the number one large plate, slices of tender tofu are spread evenly, and yellow oyster sauce sauce is sprinkled on top.Liang Shiqiu remembered this dish for a lifetime. He said: "I have eaten Sichuan cuisine countless times in the past few decades, and I have never encountered this masterpiece again. I guess that the plate of tofu was steamed after it was set, and then poured with sauce." In March 1948, Zheng Zhenduo went to Hangzhou and stayed at the Geling Hotel.One night, Zheng went to Feng Zikai's house after drinking a catty of rice wine. It happened that Feng Zikai had just drunk a catty of rice wine.The two drinking friends who had been away for ten years restarted the cups and plates, and the maid brought a jug of wine and four appetizers: sauced chicken, sauced meat, preserved eggs, and peanuts.It was raining lightly outside the window, and a poem by mathematician Su Buqing that he transcribed was pasted on the wall of Feng’s house: “Have a cup of grass and a plate to enjoy together, Mo Yin’s words are sad. The spring breeze has greened the grass in front of the door, and it is resistant to the remaining cold. Look around.” Feng He said with emotion: "There can be experts in other things, but poetry cannot have experts. Because making poetry is being a human being. If people do well, poetry can also be done well. If there are experts in poetry, non-experts can't make poetry, then For example, there are experts in life, and non-experts can’t be human, isn’t it ridiculous?” The two also mentioned an old incident related to drinking more than 20 years ago: They were both in Shanghai at that time.One day, Zheng Zhenduo met Feng Zikai on the street. Just as it was time for dinner, he said, "Zikai, let's eat western food." The two went upstairs to the Jinlong Western Restaurant opposite New World and ordered two company dishes. , a bottle of brandy.After dinner, the servant Ou brought the bill, and Zheng Zhenduo asked Feng Zikai, "Do you have any money?" Feng agreed and took out a five-yuan note to pay the bill.A day later, Zheng Zhenduo went to Lida Academy to ask Feng Zikai to pay back the money, and what he got out was a ten-yuan bill, which Feng would not accept.During the stalemate, Liu Xunyu, a colleague of Lida, came over and snatched the money away, saying, "Don't be too polite, go to the small shop in Xinjiangwan for a drink!" So Xia Mianzun, Kuang Husheng, Fang Guangtao and other seven or eight people were called to go to the store. I went to the small wine shop, and by the time everyone finished eating the ten-yuan bill, they were all drunk. Twenty years later, some of the people who drank together back then have passed away, some are far away in Guiyang, and some have disappeared.There are only two destined "employees" sitting together drinking and reminiscing about the old days. On March 19, 1927, the Wuhan Nationalist Government sent Guo Moruo to visit Li Zongren in Anqing with a letter of appointment and a seal to urge him to concurrently serve as the chairman of Anhui Province.From two o'clock in the afternoon to the evening, Li Zongren still didn't spit.Later, Li stayed with Guo for dinner and paid for brandy.Guo Moruo is good at talking, drinking, and punching.During the banquet, he fought with Li Zongren, and his boxing skills were far superior to Li's.On average, Guo drinks one cup and Li De drinks four or five cups.Later, Li was so drunk that he fell asleep on the sofa.When he woke up the next day, Li Zongren asked the left and right where Deputy Director Guo (Guo was the Deputy Director of the Political Department of the Northern Expedition Army at the time) had gone.The adjutant replied: After you were drunk, he repeatedly pushed you to stay awake, and then returned to Wuhan with the letter of appointment and the seal. There are quite a few famous teahouses in Suzhou, such as Yaju, Wangyue, Yulouchun, etc. Someone once used the names of these three teahouses as a pair: "Yaju Yulouchun Wangyue." But it seems that the second line was not obtained.Making teahouses was a very popular way of leisure in Suzhou at that time.Many people enter the teahouse several times a day, and the waiter often does not collect the teapot after one tea, and waits for the tea customers to come again or even three times.Old tea lovers can sit for a whole day for a pot of tea. In the 1920s, it was popular in Suzhou to eat a kind of fried pork ribs, and each piece sold for five or six copper dollars.There are pork rib stalls everywhere in front of Xuanmiao Temple.The peddler with the basket asked everyone, "Ah, want to buy pork ribs?" An old man sighed: "The word for pork ribs sounds the same as defeating the country. The failure of the state affairs is as good as it is!" Scholar Zhou Yueran once praised Suzhou's snacks: "The melon seeds are fragrant and whole, the candies are sweet but not greasy, and other snacks such as small meat buns, Liangxiang chestnuts and other snacks make everyone feel like they can't stop eating and ignore their stomach problems." Su Man likes sweets, especially Caizhizhaitang and malt tarts.Malt tower cake is a kind of folk food in Wujiang. It is made of mashed malt and ramie, filled with bean paste and mixed with jujube paste.This kind of cake is very delicious, but it is not easy to digest.Ordinary people can eat three or four, which is already good for the stomach, but Su Manshu can eat 20 at a time.In addition to the above two kinds, Su also likes to eat crispy candy, cocoa candy, zongzi candy, eight-treasure rice, and Morden candy. He once called himself a "sugar monk". There are many water towns in the south of the Yangtze River. Life on a boat is a scene, and boat dishes are one of them.As the name suggests, boat dishes are dishes cooked by boatmen.During the period of the Republic of China, boat dishes were very popular in Suzhou area, which is beyond the reach of ordinary restaurants.Because there is only one table for boat dishes, small pots and small stoves, the same cooking is the same, the soup and water are not mixed, the ingredients are not sloppy, and everything has its true taste.And because the food on the boat is of good quality, eating and drinking on the boat is very relaxing and comfortable. You can also watch, talk and laugh, and play all day and night. Therefore, there was often a shortage of clippers in those days. Many snacks in Suzhou, such as candied hawthorn, longan candy, crunchy candy, pork ribs, sauced beef, spiced beans, etc. have unique flavors.After Xu Bibo, a member of the Star Club, moved to Shanghai, he often asked his friends in Suzhou to buy spiced beans from Wu Yuan Tea House. During the Republic of China, there was a hotel called Wang Baohe in Guanqian Street, Suzhou.According to Cao Juren's feeling, the wine in this store is very good, but the store only sells wine, not snacks.Outside the store, there is an endless stream of wine and vegetable vendors, mainly girls and young women, with tamales, roast chicken, smoked fish, roast goose, sauced duck and various braised meat.They each sell their own, let the drinker choose.The drinkers cut a plate of all kinds and filled the table, eating and drinking with gusto.Cao Juren said: "This is the joy of life." Among the women writers who are good at smoking and drinking, Zhao Qingge is one of them, which has been mentioned in many of her travel notes.For example, when visiting Suzhou in the autumn of 1936, she wrote: "One hour before leaving, my cousin and I waited for a drink with crabs in a clean and elegant tavern. The famous Qingshui crabs are plump and delicious. We have a drink and talk with old friends. I really feel like I’m not drunk and I’m home!” 12 years later, Zhao Qingge revisited Suzhou and lived in the Garden Hotel to write a script.She wrote: "It was dark, and there was an electric light on the balcony. I drank half a bottle of beer at dinner, and watched the weeping willows and the brook in the dark night. It was not a kind of mood." After that, she wrote in the hotel, almost Drink every day.On the sixth day, the script was finished, and I wrote: "I went to the city to visit friends, and I had a chat with the old man Shaoqing. At the table, we were friends for the past year, and he didn't look like a sixty-year-old man when he held the glass. He refused to obey the old man, and I Not to be outdone, we are all bold!...So I got drunk! I love to drink with the elders on weekdays. At the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War, the poet Lu Jiye and the painter Gu Yinting lived together in Wuhan. , Mr. Mei Yiqi and I have a drink together, and we will meet without getting drunk and returning." In 1924, Zhou Zuoren said: "I have been wandering in Beijing for ten years, but I have never eaten good dim sum." In the 1920s and 1930s, the so-called "lower class" in Nanjing, such as coachmen, beggars, pickers, pot repairers, etc., mostly lived in the Gaojing Street area, and it is said that there were thousands of families.They also eat, drink and gamble, and the difference from the rich is only in the way.For example, drinking, their method is: a bag of peanuts or a piece of stinky fish, a bowl of shochu for a few coppers, and they drink it up in one gulp.After being drunk, he would find faults and fight everywhere, until his head was broken and bloody. Opposite Nanjing Dabaoen Temple, there is a small halal shop called Ma Xiangxing. The shop is small but famous.Wang Jingwei also likes this one.During the Anti-Japanese War, Wang often used Rongbaozhai's letterhead to write "Wang's mansion orders food, and the military and police will let it go", and sent a car there to buy food.The so-called "beauty liver" is a kind of duck pancreas, each duck has only one pancreas, if put together into a dish, it must be dozens of ducks. When Zhang Henshui was running a newspaper in Nanjing, he often went to the north of the city to enjoy the scenery in autumn.He believes that the north of Nanjing is "empty and sparse, and life must be in line with autumn".He usually goes around to Dingjiaqiao, where there is a teahouse to make a pot of Maojian tea, and then he cuts salted duck for 20 cents nearby, wraps peanuts with salt and pepper for 5 cents, and then buys a few Chaopaizi biscuits on the biscuit barrel. After a full meal, I walked home on the fallen leaves. In the autumn of 1933, Chen Sanli, the father of scholar Chen Yinke, came to Nanjing from Lushan Mountain, and his friends welcomed him at Wanquan Restaurant.During the meeting, Chen mentioned some old things in Nanjing, saying that Gu Wu's drinking capacity was unmatched by anyone.Lu Jiye, who was at the same table, was young and energetic. Although he had quit drinking for more than a year, he seemed dissatisfied after hearing this, so he asked Gu Wu about his drinking capacity.Chen replied: "You must drink five catties of wine. You can't make it again today!" Lu said that he must have been able to drink five catties of wine before.Chen asked him to try it, and the others followed suit.Lu Sui drank five catties on the spot, and since then he has broken his drinking habit.Later, whenever Chen mentioned this meal, he would praise Lu for his ability to drink. Pu Yousong, a native of Nanjing, lived in the baijiu shop inside Jubaomen, probably because of the name. It is said that "the one who can drink is the best in the world."Pu drank alcohol since he was a child, and until he was eighty years old, he drank every day; he drank four or five taels per meal.His theory is: "It may be said that alcohol hurts people, but I say that alcohol nourishes people; it is not alcohol that can hurt people, but people are self-injured by alcohol; it is not alcohol that can nourish me, and I am nourished by alcohol!" 1946年，郭沫若等十来人同游南京玄武湖，冯玉祥也赶来凑热闹。他们租了一条带篷子有栏杆摆着藤椅的游艇。荡游中，冯玉祥命船靠岸，差副官买来馒头、卤肉、盐水鸭、香蕉等食物，包了三大荷叶。大家也饿了，正待动手在船上野餐，冯说不忙，还有好东西。又叫副官从包里取出一瓶法国葡萄酒。冯本不喝酒，这次也破例喝了两口。冯玉祥虽行伍出身，却喜欢附庸风雅，周旋于文人之间。 吴昌硕活了84岁。晚年于酒宴逢请必到，到则大吃大喝，回家便常闹肚子，屡教不改。 冯国璋爱吃玉田酱肉，每差仆人去买时，为防止被偷吃，必令切成整齐的四方块。有时用酱肉待客，怕客人多吃，冯总是亲自操刀，把肉切得薄如片纸。若有零星碎肉沾在刀上，他都要用舌头舔干净，有时舌头不慎被刀划破，致满嘴流血，得不偿失。其为人之吝啬，可见一斑。 尚小云不“懒做”，但“好吃”。有文章记述他爱吃的东西很杂，如天福号的酱肘子、荷叶包子等。平时嘴里离不开零食，吃完了花生吃瓜子，吃完了瓜子又吃水萝卜，吃完了萝卜再吃梨…… 钟敬文一次冬游西湖，在灵隐寺门外的饭馆喝酒，他把从山路上带下来的一团雪放入酒杯，混着喝。堂倌说：“这顶得上冰淇淋了。” 民国初年，丰子恺在杭州第一师范读书。伙食是八人一桌，五个菜，丰子恺把吃饭形容为“老虎吃蝴蝶”。所谓五个菜，盛在高脚碗里，蔬菜是浅零零的，整块的肉难得一见。一碗菜里露出疏稀的几根肉丝，就算不错了。学生都跟饿狼似的，一开饭，十多只筷子一齐插向菜碗里，八面夹攻。有高手在菜碗里转一圈，便把肉丝一筷子扫尽；另有高手从底下斜插进去，把唯一的鸡蛋掏走大半个……这些半大孩子的饭量也让人瞠目，有的一顿吃十来碗饭，此桌吃到碗底朝天，再转移到彼桌，“好像逐水草而转移的游牧之民”。 1933年春，林语堂游杭州，在火车上和一土豪对坐，林因此自认“乘位不好”。开车十分钟后，土豪开始大吃大喝起来，先叫了一盘“中国大菜式的西菜”，不久，又要了一大杯烧酒，接着又要了一份白菜烧牛肉，林语堂数了数，牛肉有十二片之多。最后又上吐司五片，奶油一碟。林语堂就此断定：此人50岁时必死于肝癌。 作家施蛰存酒量不行，自称一杯啤酒就能让自己醉态酡然。但他又好酒，追求薄醉的感觉。他曾细致入微地表述这种感觉：“得好酒二三两，醉虾一盘，或卤鸡一碟，随意徐饮之，渐渐而面发热，眼花生缬，肌肤上有温柔纤软之感，口欲言而讷讷，心无感而凄凄，乍若欲笑，忽复欲哭，此薄醉之时也。” 据施蛰存观察：“杭州人吃酒似乎等于吃茶。不论过往客商，贩夫走卒，行过酒店，闻到香气，就会到柜台上去掏摸出八个或十个铜元来烫一碗上好的绍酒，再买三个铜元的花生米或两块豆腐干，悠然独酌起来。吃完了再赶路做事。” 上世纪40年代，作家金性尧一次在杭州的庙里吃斋饭。“菜凡八器，而食客则有三人。”其中的几样菜是现从菜地里拔出来烹烧的，金描述为“一上舌本，果然不同庸味”。 田汉一次坐火车过嘉兴南湖，买来湖菱大啖，称：“我的指甲都剥开了，但还不肯释手。”他一人吃了两篮子菱角，从嘉兴一直吃到杭州。 居士金复三烹素斋的厨艺很高，他久住杭州烟霞洞，一次张元济一家到此一游，正当饭口，在庙里吃了一顿金复三做的素餐，四菜一汤，有竹笋和豆制品，蔬菜和笋是现从地里采摘的，十分可口。张元济夫妇议论说，上海有名的功德林哪能吃到如此新鲜的蔬菜。胡适曾在烟霞洞养病数月，金常给胡适掌厨。1947年，金已年过八十，曾托人带信给在北平的胡适，盼胡到杭州一聚，将再亲手为胡烧几样素菜。胡回信答应第二年到杭州看金，不料事过不久，金便去世。 抗战期间，西南联大的教授们生活颇为清苦。不少教授不带家眷，等同于过集体生活。文科研究所雇一当地人打杂做饭，七八个人一桌，每顿只两菜一汤，菜为炒萝卜和豆豉。饭费每人每月400元。后有教授不堪其苦，到外面包饭，每月500元，伙食比之前有所改善，六七人一桌，每顿有一大碗红烧牛肉或猪肉，尚属够吃。早上是稀饭、油炸花生米。 1943年圣诞节，西南联大教授浦江清请几个同事在昆明金碧路南丰西餐馆聚餐，客有唐立庵、罗莘田、闻一多、朱自清、许骏斋等。西餐是分餐制，一客70元，有汤、小吃、鸡、猪排、咖啡、水果、面包，果酱另算。这顿饭浦江清花了500元。而四五年前他们刚来昆明时，同一家餐馆，一客不过三四元，已吃得大饱。如今一客70元，也仅仅是果腹而已。 1944年初，冯友兰夫妇将去重庆，联大教授游国恩为其饯行，并邀同事作陪。浦江清也到席，事后他大赞游夫人的厨艺：“扣肉及一杂羹，皆美味出人头地。” 抗战前，北平的大饭馆，如同和居、砂锅居、森隆等一桌子饭吃下来需20元上下，东兴楼、丰泽园还要贵点，一般收入的家庭基本不敢问津。最高档的是广东人谭篆青家姨太太掌勺的谭家菜，一桌40元。据说很少有在谭家菜请客的，都是凑10人均摊慕名去尝鲜。谭家菜的主菜是一人一碗厚味的鱼翅，这也是顾客花“重金”来这里的目的所在。 上世纪30年代，学者邓云乡在北平志成中学念书，教室隔壁是教员食堂。第三节课课间时，一些孩子常在饭厅门口向里张望。里面是两个圆桌，白色台布，五六大盘菜，如坛子肉、红烧鸡块、雪菜肉丝、佛手肉丝、烧茄子之类，主食是两大盘子花卷。这对一个饿了一上午的半大孩子而言，垂涎的程度不难想见。 画家黄苗子回忆说：“我从小就馋，外公一族的祠堂每年春秋两祭都给杨氏子孙分猪肉，每次的猪肉都分得不少，在外婆的指导下，舅母用香山特有的咸虾酱把烧猪肉再焖一次，这种咸虾酱焖猪肉可以贮存下来吃上一头半月。外婆家冬天还有一种油泡着的腊鸭屁股，这两种油香喷扑的佳肴，是我小时候最喜欢的美馔。” 书画家邓散木好酒，并且好喝大酒。年轻时曾和人打赌，共喝一坛子50斤的绍兴酒，不许上厕所。一共十来个人，最终仅邓散木一人如约喝完且没有失态。民国时期，他的书刻所得，大多用在请朋友到家里痛饮上了。那阵子，他家天天有整桌的客人来吃喝。很多人都不会忘记他家天井里成堆的绍兴酒坛子。他晚年因血管堵塞而截肢，因胃癌而开刀，大概都与当年的豪饮不无关系。 谭延闿好吃，而且讲究吃。据说他晚年出席的宴会一桌不能低于300元，这大约相当于一个名牌大学教授的月薪。 当年北京的饭馆以人名当菜名的流行菜品有三种：赵先生肉、张先生豆腐、马先生汤。马先生指的是马叙伦，北大教授，解放后成为第一任教育部部长。他确是“喜治馔品”，拿手的是三白汤，三白即青菜、豆腐和笋，也根据时节添加其他材料，雪里蕻似不可或缺。马叙伦常去中山公园长美轩的川黔馆子吃饭，对伙计说，你们没有好汤，便开列若干材料让店里上灶去烧，于是就有了马先生汤。但饭馆里做的马先生汤，据马叙伦自称：“其实绝非余手制之味也。” 北平时期，最低档的饭馆通称切面铺。在切面铺吃饼或面条都以斤两而不是以碗计，品种单调而实惠，来吃饭的多为干力气活的。学者张中行回忆：“我有时也愿意到那里去吃，主食要十两（十六两一斤）水面烙饼，菜肴要一碗肉片白菜豆腐，味道颇不坏，价钱比别处便宜，可以吃得饱饱的，可取之处还有吃之外的享受，是欣赏老北京下层人民的朴实、爽快和幽默。” 张中行不光照顾切面铺，对于其他饭馆，他说：“住北京时间长了，总要一家挨一家地尝一尝。”上世纪30年代，北平吃烤肉的地方有两处，一为宣武门内的烤肉宛，一为什刹海北岸的烤肉季。两处都只卖烤牛肉，兼卖白酒和小米粥，烧饼由附近的铺子供应。张中行一次与朋友去吃烤肉宛，他回忆说：“铺面非常简陋，只是一大间屋子。靠南是烤肉的地方，并排两个烤肉支子，形状很像磨房的磨，一个圆平台，中间一个一尺多高的铁圈，上面扣着中间略为凸起的铁支子……圆平台四面放四条粗糙的板凳，是顾客的'站位'。靠北是一个桌子，上面放着碗、筷子、碎葱、碎香菜、麻酱、酱油等用具和调料。还有一个切牛肉的案子，上面放着牛肉、刀、碟子等。切肉的是个五十上下的大汉，想来就是铺主宛某了。”“我们照北京人的习惯，右脚着地，左脚抬起踏在板凳上，然后用长筷子夹蘸过调料的肉片，放在支子上烤。支子下烧的是某种松木，烟很少，略有香气。支子很热，肉片放在上面，立刻发出咝咝的声音。翻腾几下，可以吃了，于是一口白干一口肉，很有塞外住蒙古包的意味了。吃的后半，酒不能再喝，恰好送来烧饼，于是烧饼夹烤肉，喝一碗粥，完全饱了。” 老北京的“大酒缸”，是一种连喝带吃的铺子。大酒缸多为山西人经营的夫妻店，规模不大，常为前店后室（住所）。店中该放桌子的地方并排放三口直径一米左右的酒缸，有的是两排六口。缸的下半截埋在地下，上盖红漆木盖，周围是凳子。其实酒缸多是空的，陈酿的意思到了而已，真正的功能是起到桌子的作用。靠边的柜台上摆着酒具、酒菜等。酒是白干，论“个”卖，一个即一提子，旧秤二两，菜为花生米、辣白菜、五香豆等，主食是饺子和刀削面。简而言之，这是个价廉而实惠的吃喝的去处。 抗战期间，梁实秋与女作家方令孺曾是邻居。一次方邀梁去家里吃饭，梁实秋说：“九姑（方令孺）请我们吃饭，这是难得一遇的事情。”梁一进门就感到香气扑鼻，一个密封的瓦罐在炭火上已经煨了五六个小时，里面传来轻轻的噗噜噗噜声，内有大块大块的五花肉，不加一滴水，只加料酒酱油，火候一到，酥烂可口。梁实秋猜：“这大概就是所谓的东坡肉了吧？”尽兴而别时，方令孺说：“最乐的事莫如朋友相聚，最苦的事是夜阑人去独自收拾杯盘打扫地下。” 张中行是河北香河人，那里是京东肉饼的老家。他曾忆及村里有一怪人，每天中午上村东一里的镇上的饭铺吃饭，每回都自己买一斤肉，进了饭铺交给老板，再叮嘱一句：“多加油！我就不怕好吃。” 张中行从北大毕业后，在保定一个学校混了一年。他晚年还念念不忘直隶总督府对面的马家老鸡铺卖的酱牛肉和酱牛杂碎，说：“一生所曾吃，我觉得那是最好的。”几年后，张与妻子并一友人在西单一带闲逛，中午进天福号买了半斤酱肘子，然后到一个叫兴茂号的小饭馆，吃叉子火烧夹酱肘子，还点了一道海米白菜汤。这顿饭他也念叨了几十年，到了上世纪80年代还说：“至今回味，仍然垂涎欲滴。”据张判断，当时天福号的酱肉，都用80斤的京东小猪和地道的黄豆酱油，与后来用动辄二三百斤且经过冷藏的猪作原料，酱肉的味道自然是两码事了。 民国初年，上海川菜馆的老大非“醉沤”莫属，味美而价格惊人，宴客者据说非醉沤不足以称阔人。闽菜馆则皆称“有天”，如小有天、别有天、中有天等。中有天味美价廉，名气本来不大，后梅兰芳到上海演出，曾光顾这里一趟，被小报一传，致饭馆名声大振，足见当年梅兰芳的魔力之大。 北京旧时的低档饭馆，除了切面铺，还有二荤铺。“二荤”，指肉和下水。二荤铺一般有一两间门面，一两个厨子，一两个跑堂的，一两个打下手的。所卖无非家常菜。如肉丁酱、炒肉片、熘腰花、炸丸子、酸辣汤等。有时来了熟客，伙计便替客人做主：“得了！还给您炒个肚块儿，高汤甩果，一小碗饭俩花卷。马前点，吃完您就走，误不了您的事儿！” 邓云乡回忆说：“在30年代中，八大春以庆林春为个中白眉。不算清真馆子西来顺，他家的菜在当时是西长安街上首屈一指的。地址在西长安街西头路北，里面一个大四合院子，隔成大小雅座，院子里有铁罩棚。厨房在外院左首，一般都卖整桌的多，小酌的少。记得他家的葱油海参、虾子蹄筋、核桃酪等菜，真是醇厚无比，后来再也没有吃到这么好的名菜，如今真是广陵散，绝响矣。那时的菜，味真好，不讲花架子，盘子中一弄出花样来，实际就没办法吃了。” 老北京的小康人家，夏天兴在堂屋八仙桌前置一冰桶。冰桶有木制的，有琉璃的，有景泰蓝的。冰桶里镇着绿豆汤、酸梅汤、奶酪、香瓜、西瓜等。酷暑时节，午睡后打开冰桶盖，用小彩花碗盛碗冰糖熬的绿豆汤，该是一种什么滋味呢？ 苏曼殊饮食无节制。他每天抽二三十根雪茄烟。曾一次吃进几十斤冰块。有一回吃了三大笼苏州汤包，在床了躺了三天才起来。最后一回是吃了好几碗鲍鱼，致腹泻数日，躺在上海医院的病床上。医生叮嘱他当心饮食，而他扭脸就叫人去买来糖炒栗子大啖，致肠胃病大发，就这么一命呜呼、死在了“吃”上。 陈嘉庚自奉甚俭是出了名的。一次他请客，桌上只备几盘炒粉，几盘炒面，一大碗青菜豆腐汤。 上世纪20年代，徐铸成考入清华，他后来曾忆及清华学生的伙食：“早餐是四盆菜两道点心外加白粥，有些老同学故意过了规定时间去，只要多花一毛钱，厨房总另外预备一大碗水饺给他吃。午饭、晚饭则是四大盆、四大碗鸡鸭鱼肉，米饭馒头。纪念日则往往用西餐。” 许地山和夏衍都不吃鸡鸭。许短命而夏则长寿。 香港沦陷后，《大公报》停刊。徐铸成等四人化装成难民逃往广州。在英德县境内，他们看到一片食摊，徐后来回忆说：“上船以来，顿顿都是一小碟煮菜和一小块盐鱼。我是不吃鱼的，只以淡而无味的煮菜送饭，正像李逵常说的：'嘴里淡出鸟来了。'忽然看到这满目珍馐，眼里像冒出火来，连忙坐下去，各占了一个坐头，一个火炉，选了几碟，边烫边吃，还各沽了一小瓶双蒸酒，自饮自酌起来。说也奇怪，我在香港这几年，只尝过一次双蒸，认为它既无骨力，又缺香味，从此不再过问。想不到这里品饮的，却异常醇洌，一小锅纯鸡汤，加上鸡片、腰片之类，都极鲜嫩。这一顿野餐，可以毫不夸张地说，是我生平最满意的盛筵之一。我想，这也并非全是饥者易为食之故。” 《大公报》太原分馆经理雷觉民是晋北人，他告诉徐铸成，晋北有一种干醋，看上去黑黝黝的，用水一泡，洁白香洌，而且酸味极足，据说用这种醋蘸饺子吃其味无穷。 张中行和友人韩文佑在北平教书时，常结伴逛琉璃厂，如上午去，午饭就到琉璃厂东门外一尺大街路南的大酒缸去吃，一人一个酒（老秤二两），然后吃饺子。张中行说：“有村野的诗意。” 1935年暑假后，张中行到南开中学任教。他到了天津先在亲戚家落脚，表叔把他带到一个小饭铺吃午饭，给他点了一菜一汤以及花卷，菜是七寸盘的清炒虾仁。这顿饭用张中行的话说是“影响远大”，几十年后，和朋友小聚，他都反对点虾仁。因为自那顿饭后，张中行所吃过的虾仁，味道都不及这个天津小饭铺做的。 西北军将领如冯玉祥、杨虎城、张自忠等都习惯于吃火锅。抗战期间，国民参政会视察慰劳团到张自忠的司令部，张便以四菜一火锅的简单饭菜招待慰劳团。这四菜一火锅均以青菜豆腐为主，肉片和丸子是点缀。此外给每人在火锅里加一个鸡蛋。这便是张自忠的集团军司令部里最大的排场了。 胡适在中国公学当校长时，曾请“新月派”的一帮朋友到其极司菲尔路寓所吃饭，由胡太太江冬秀掌勺烹制徽州有名的“一品锅”。一品锅顾名思义，把一口滚沸的大铁锅端上桌，里面是一层鸡，一层鸭，一层肉，点缀着一些蛋皮饺，锅底下是萝卜白菜。胡适说，这是徽州人家待客的上品，酒菜、饭菜、汤都在其中。 诗人卢冀野能吃。抗战期间，卢是参政员，一次随参政会华北慰劳视察团出行，抵西安后，同路的梁实秋请他到厚德园吃饭，点了一只烤鸭、一条酱汁鱼。梁说：“按说四五个人都吃不了，但是他伸臂挽袖，独当重任，如风卷残云，连呼'痛快，痛快'。” 1924年暑假，孙伏园和鲁迅等一行去西安讲学。孙在西安吃拉面时，总是用筷子挑出一根，把一端放入口内，然后一段一段向里吞。 王森然是鲁迅在北大教过的学生。一次课后王与鲁迅同路，出校门后，行至一个饭摊前，鲁迅问王，是回家吃饭，还是在摊上吃一点。王答：“随便怎样！”鲁迅说：“那好！咱们就吃这荞麦条子吧！皇帝老人未必享受过这么美味的佳肴。”这是当年北京街边最低级的饭摊，主要经营玉米粥、窝头、荞麦饸饹之类，无桌椅，只有一个条案，顾客只能拣块砖头当凳子。鲁迅和王森然就地泰然而坐，与拉车卖报者流为伍，津津有味地吃了这顿午饭。 1926年，