Chapter 4 3.to wear

In the 1930s, Chiang Kai-shek often wore a black cloak all year round, and never left his body when he went out.Later, it became more and more popular in the society. Some said it was a bulletproof vest, and some said it was warm in winter and cool in summer.In fact, this is just an ordinary cloak. In the early 1930s, his attendant office entrusted Lizhi Society to handle it, and let Nanjing Li Shunchang Military Uniform Shop tailor it. Before the Anti-Japanese War, Zhang Daqian came to Peiping to hold a painting exhibition in Zhongshan Park.Many viewers saw Zhang Daqian's true face: a thick black beard and very thick fingers.Dark gray old cloth jacket, black mandarin jacket, cloth socks, cloth shoes.It is said that such attire could only be seen in remote mountain towns back then.

In 1925, Ding Ling and Hu Ye frequently lived together in Beijing.That winter, Hu also had no way to keep out the cold. Ding Ling bought two pieces of cotton cloth and two catties of cotton for seven yuan, and made a cotton robe for Hu herself, but it didn't fit, so she had to send it to a pawn shop for four yuan.Ding Ling bought another one yuan worth of cotton, took apart an old robe that Hu Yepin had, stuffed it with cotton, and made it through the winter. After Yuan Shikai became president, he sent someone to bring the famous scholar Wang Kaiyun to Beijing to show courtesy to the corporal.When Wang went to the Presidential Palace to meet Yuan, he was wearing the python robe official uniform of the Qing Dynasty. Yuan asked: Now it is the Republic of China, why does the old man still wear Qing clothing?Wang replied: You wear Western-style clothes, which are barbarian clothes, and I wear Manchurian clothes, which are also barbarian clothes, and each other.

After the war, it became a fashion for "members of the party and state" to visit Peiping with their families.Sun Yuanliang, known as the "Peachy General", also followed suit with his concubine.At that time, women's clothing in Beijing and Shanghai was fashionable to wear gray back coats.Concubine Sun is from the south, and she wanted to take advantage of her trip to the north to pick out a top-quality gray-backed coat to wear back, so the name Ruifuxiang naturally became her first choice.One day, Sun Yuanliang and his wife drove directly to Ruifuxiang in a small sleeping car. Seeing that there were a lot of customers in the store, they were very hospitable and courteous.Sun et al went up the building and looked around, seeing a dazzling array of goods, and they chose at will because they were rich.The store will also display the best gray back coats one by one.Unexpectedly, these two customers didn't know the goods, and they picked and picked them, and they just judged the quality of the goods by the price.They looked at the prices one by one, from 5 million to 6 million to 8 million, and none of them exceeded 10 million. They were still unwilling, so they asked, "Is there any higher value?" He also saw through their thoughts, and couldn't help wanting to wrong them. He replied: "The best products on the cabinet are all here. If you want better ones, you have to go to the warehouse to get them. Can you wait a moment." After Sun nodded, The store immediately sent someone out, but instead of going to the warehouse, they went to nearby Xiangqianyi to fetch a gray-backed overcoat.The price of this coat is 6 million, and it has not been sold in the window for more than half a year.Rui Fuxiang took it, put his own label on it, increased the size to 12 million, and sent it upstairs.The clerk told Sun Yuanliang that this is an excellent product, and it is not easy to take it out if you don't meet someone who knows it.After hearing this, Sun was very satisfied, as if he had really become a "knowledgeable family", and happily paid the bill and left.Sun Yuanliang later became the commander of the Corps. After being defeated and fled to Taiwan, he was disarmed and went into business. He lived until he was 104 years old and died in 2007.His son Qin Han was once a popular film actor in Taiwan.What's interesting is that this general who was bullied in Ruifuxiang became the chairman of a silk company in Taiwan in his later years.

In 1929, when there was a severe drought in North China, "Ta Kung Pao" launched a fundraising campaign for disaster relief. Puyi lived in Zhangyuan, the Japanese Concession in Tianjin. He took out some mink furs and entrusted "Ta Kung Pao" to auction them on his behalf, and the proceeds were donated to the disaster area.Cai Ciquan, a descendant of Shengfang Cai (a rich man in Shengfang Town, Wen'an County, Hebei Province) (the Cai family had moved to Tianjin at that time and became one of the "Tianjin Eight Great Masters") heard about it, and sold most of them at the highest price.His real intention was not to help, but to show off by being able to enjoy or own royal clothes.What this move reveals is a typical nouveau riche mentality.

Cai Yinquan, Cai Ciquan's younger brother, refused to allow his brother to wear clothes.He is a big customer of Tianjin Yuanlong Silk and Satin Shop, and all kinds of silk, satin and leather goods newly purchased by Yuanlong House must be purchased by Cai Yinquan before being sent to the store for sale.Yuanlong silk and satin village regards him as the God of Wealth, and it is easy to flatter him in every possible way. In the summer of 1934, Cai Muhan (Cai Ciquan's nephew), the head of the Cai family after arriving in Tianjin, married a daughter-in-law who was Cao Kun's granddaughter.The phoenix crown worn by the bride at the wedding is inlaid with jewels; the clothes are embroidered with gold silk. The value of the "outfit" worn for only one day is said to be able to hold 1,000 bags of flour.

After Lin Sen became the chairman of the National Government, he often went shopping by himself.Once he went to a shoe and hat store in Huapailou, Nanjing, to buy a top hat, and was recognized by the clerk.The news spread like wildfire, and the shoe and hat shop has been booming ever since. Wu Dingchang has always paid attention to appearance.During the Anti-Japanese War, he served as the chairman of Guizhou Province.In public, he always wears a neat suit with a flowered handkerchief in his jacket pocket, showing a corner slightly.Wu shaves every day without any stubble. During the period of the Republic of China, among the senior generals, it is said that there were two people who paid the most attention to clothing, one was Shang Zhen, and the other was Zou Zuohua (who was once the head of education of the Central Artillery School). After 1928, senior military officers generally wore gray cloth military uniforms in order to flaunt their frugality. Get thirty or forty yuan.The clothes worn by the merchants, whether they are military uniforms or casual clothes, are all ironed, and workers who specialize in ironing are hired at home.

Although Yu Qiaqing is a bigwig in Shanghai, she has always been unkempt, and especially doesn't like to wear long gowns.When he goes out in a car, he often gets into the car in short clothes and puts a long gown on the car. When he gets off the car, the driver takes it out and puts it on for a show. In the early 1930s, Zhang Henshui went to the Northwest after closing his doors and "writing" novels for a year.He went to Xi'an to visit Shao Lizi, who was then the chairman of Shaanxi Province. Shao was very enthusiastic. He heard that Zhang was going to Lanzhou, so he arranged for him to take the official car of Engineer Liu on the Xilan Highway.Zhang read the desolation of the northwest all the way, and felt that a county here is not as good as a village in the south of the Yangtze River.Engineer Liu told him: "You haven't visited the county yet. People don't dress well. Girls in their teens often only wear sand and grass around their bodies for the winter, without pants. This is the case in many counties."

The abbot is a powerful class in the temple, and his basic necessities are much higher than that of ordinary monks.At that time, the Quanlang monk of Nianhua Temple had boxes of silk and satin, and single-padded cotton yarn. Tang Enbo is unkempt.The military uniforms on his body, gray and yellow, together with the colors of the military cap and belt, can be made into several pieces.When he sat in the car in summer, he always wrapped one heel of his trousers and rolled up the other above his knees.Except for receiving foreign guests, it is rare to see him neatly dressed. When Soong Meiling was shopping for clothes, she always went to several shops, asked about the prices, and picked the place she wanted to buy.

Feng Yongxian, a comprador in Tianjin, changed his clothes three times a day in the morning, noon, and evening, and the styles and designs of each piece of clothing were different.The flowers of Chinese-style tops correspond to the time of day, and are woven according to the three patterns of budding, early blooming, and full bloom.In this case, he would have to double his already piled clothes.There are also piles of people who design, purchase, collect and organize clothes for him. Shao Ganyi is the leading capitalist in Northeast China, with a net worth of over ten million, but lives like a poor man.The clothes he usually wears are all sewn by his wife, and the shoes are also made by his wife, and he never wears leather shoes.When the shoes were worn out, they were asked to be palmed. Someone joked, "Old boss, what kind of shoes do you wear? Don't wear palm shoes anymore." Shao smiled and said, "If you save one, it's one." One day, he Going to a banquet at the Modern Hotel in Harbin, wearing a black padded gown with large stitches and a felt hat looks inappropriate.The attendant who accompanied him said: "General manager, you can wear my otter collar coat and otter hat. I'll borrow another set." What? Let's go!" As a result, Madier's concierge let his servant in and stopped Shao as a cook. No matter how the servant explained it, it didn't work. Shao got angry and shouted in the hall: "Who doesn't know me, Shao Ganyi!"

In 1939, Zhang Boju came to Guiyang, the rear of the country, to visit Wu Dingchang, the chairman of Guizhou Province.The Wu Dingchang he saw before the war were all dressed in long robes and mandarin jackets, with double beam shoes on his feet. Seeing Wu wearing a neat general's uniform this time, he couldn't help but feel funny. Liu Yanling, Zhu Ziqing, Yu Pingbo, and Ye Shengtao were one of the eight early poets of the Literary Research Association.Liu is from northern Jiangsu with a strong accent.One morning, Zheng Zhenduo went to see Liu. Liu was messing around in bed. Zheng Zhenduo went in without knowing what he was doing.Liu replied: "Change your pants." Because it is a Subei dialect, it sounds a bit like "red pants", which is a bit like a woman's behavior.

When the writer Xu Jie was teaching in Ningbo Zhejiang Provincial No. 4 Middle School in his early years, he spent 17 yuan to make a brown thick woolen suit, including a jacket, trousers and a waistcoat.He also equipped the suit with shirts, collars, collar buttons, cuffs and ties.This is Xu Jie's first suit, and he didn't wear it much in Ningbo.When he arrived in Shanghai, he struggled to put on a tie and a suit, but he was still at a loss when he went out.Seeing someone wearing an unbuttoned suit jacket, he unbuttoned it and walked bare-chested; a while later, he saw someone buttoning a suit jacket, and hurriedly buttoned the unbuttoned suit jacket... Unable to know what to do, feeling uncomfortable. Somewhat similar to Xu Jie is Zhou Youguang. In 1923, after graduating from Changzhou Middle School, Zhou Youguang was preparing to apply for St. John's University in Shanghai.A classmate reminded him that a photo is required for registration, preferably in a suit.Zhou Youguang didn't own a suit, nor wore a suit, so he had to borrow suit props from a photo studio.But the photographer in the photo studio didn't know the rules of wearing a tie, so he put on the tie and bow tie together, and took a standard photo of Zhou Youguang.The photos were sent to the classmates in Shanghai, and after a while of jokes, they were sent back to Changzhou.Under the guidance of his classmates, Zhou Youguang re-photographed a photo. According to the archives of the Imperial Palace, in 1934, Wanrong made a total of 27 cheongsams of various kinds, with an average of more than two pieces per month, which shows that she still knew how to dress herself up at that time.Hou Wanrong was cast into the cold palace and lived on opium, which is already another look. Li Yuqin, who entered the palace in 1942, saw Wanrong for the first time on the way to escape with Puyi after the war. The Wanrong in front of her was already a look of "human beings, ghosts and ghosts".Li Yuqin later recalled: "Her eyes were dull, her face was innocent, and her two-inch-long hair stood on end. She was about 1.63 meters tall, and she was wearing old dirty and wrinkled pajamas. Since she hadn't washed it for a long time, she couldn't tell. What color is it? It’s a bit like a lunatic. I hurried over to greet her, and said, "Good luck, queen master!" She looked at me and smiled at me, showing her teeth yellowed by smoking, naive Said naively: 'Very good, very good!'" In the 1920s and 1930s, Tang Ying was a well-known courtesan in Shanghai. Together with Lu Xiaoman, they were called "South Tang Bei Lu".As soon as it was said that she had ten gold-painted boxes, all of which were clothes, and the leather clothes hung all over the entire wall.Her family hired a tailor to make clothes for her alone.She never buys clothes when she goes shopping, but writes down the styles of new clothes, discusses with the tailor at home, and makes them after improvement.Therefore, most of the clothes on her body are the "only ones" that lead the trend. When Ai Qing was teaching at a female teacher in Changzhou, she said to her students, "You perm your hair like a lion's head. How ugly!"When Ai Qing woke up, it was a done deal.When I went to class the next day, the students roared with laughter: "Mr. Ai also got a perm. It looks like a lion's head. How pretty!" After the Spring Festival in 1939, Luo Binji went to visit Feng Xuefeng in the countryside of Yiwu, Zhejiang.Feng is dressed in Chinese style, with cloth-soled cotton shoes.The clothes didn't fit well. Feng Xuefeng told Luo Binji that this was a set of clothes that Qu Qiubai usually wore when he was in Shanghai. Before going to the Soviet area, Qu Qiubai asked Lu Xun to keep them.When Feng returned to Shanghai after the Long March, Qu Qiubai had died, so Lu Xun donated the clothes to Feng Xuefeng as a martyr's relic, as the necessary clothes for him to engage in underground activities in Shanghai. After the Revolution of 1911, Wang Guowei still wore braids.Once when his wife was washing his hair, he said, "It's already this time, why are you still keeping this thing?" During the Anti-Japanese War, Xia Mianzun was a part-time teacher in Nanping Girls' Middle School, and she wore a worn-out coarse cloth gown all year round.One day, several students asked him to borrow the gown, saying it was for acting.A few days later, when the students came to return the clothes, they packed two long gowns, one new and one old.They said to Xia Mianzun: We admire Mr., and we have no way to express it. Seeing that Mr.'s long gown is worn out, all of us in the class suggested buying a new one for Mr., but the sewing needs to have a size. It is assumed that it is needed for acting.After borrowing the gown, we bought cloth and made a new one according to the size of Mr.'s old clothes.This new dress was sewed by all the students in our class. Everyone sewed a few stitches, with fine and dense threads, interweaving all of us with respect and admiration for Mr., and expressing our hearts!Please be sure to accept it sir, and forgive us for concealing it from you in advance!Xia Mianzun was so excited that he forgot to thank him. He immediately put on new clothes and showed them to all the teachers' lounges one by one. When the writer Chen Xuezhao was studying at the Shanghai Patriotic Women's School, he claimed to be the poorest dressed one.In winter she only had a cotton-padded overcoat, which she took off on Saturday night to wash, and if it was still dry the next morning, she had to put it on. Feng Zikai is from Zhejiang, and his hometown is forty or fifty miles away from the sea.He once wrote that there are six sets of clothes per person in families above the middle class: summer clothes, unlined clothes, jackets, padded jackets (made of kapok), small cotton jackets (thin silk cotton), and large cotton jackets (thick silk cotton).The six sets of clothes are gradually replaced, and the cold comes and goes, and the cycle turns into a cycle without knowing it. After Li Zongren was elected vice president, he sent his entourage to ask Chiang Kai-shek what clothes to wear at the inauguration ceremony through the attendant room, and Chiang replied that he should wear a suit and a dress.Li was a little skeptical after hearing this, but since Jiang replied so, he had no choice but to follow suit, and went to a famous suit shop in Shanghai overnight to rush to make a set of tuxedo with a high crown and stiff collar.On the eve of his inauguration, Jiang's handbook came out from the attendant's room saying that he should use military uniforms.Li naturally had no choice but to follow suit.On the day of his inauguration, when the ceremonial officer asked the president and vice president to take his place, Li Zongren discovered that Chiang Kai-shek was not wearing a military uniform, but a long robe and mandarin jacket, standing on the stage as if no one else was around.Li Ze stood behind Jiang in military uniform, just like Jiang's guard. Suzhou's silk fabrics have always been very famous.After the appearance of Western-style clothing materials such as wool serge and Zhigong wool, they became popular for a while. Some fashionable boys often used serge and Zhigong wool as the front and satin as the lining for their jackets.Some old gentlemen lamented that it was an inversion of beauty and evil: "The beautiful domestic products are only used for the lining, while the dull foreign products are used for face. No wonder the face of the Chinese is taken away by foreigners." In 1921, Wang Tieshan, a northerner, became governor of Jiangsu.On the day he took office, senior officials from the province crossed the river one after another and gathered at Pukou Jinpu Station to welcome the new governor.When the car arrived at the station, Wang was nowhere to be seen.Afterwards I found out that Wang was in a fourth-class car and had left the station amidst the noisy crowd.After Wang entered the city, he went straight to the police station to report to the director, saying that one of his belts had been stolen by a thief.There was a rumor in Nanjing that the governor had disappeared.A few days later, the belt was found, and it wasn't really a belt—just a rag. As the owner of Minsheng Company, Lu Zuofu doesn't pay much attention to clothing, and wears a Chinese tunic suit all year round.He shaved his head all the time to save time on combing.Zhang Qun joked with him: "Your followers are all more beautifully dressed than you." Master Hongyi usually wears a patchwork garment with 224 patches on it, all of which he sewed by himself. In the early years of the Republic of China, braid cutting was popular for a while.Except for some foreign students who had already cut off their braids, most of them felt uncomfortable.In the areas of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, young people hope that the hair they shaved before will grow back quickly so that they can change their appearance as soon as possible; more mature people are reluctant to cut off their braids completely, and often leave a section to become a duck's butt; When they heard that the policemen in the city were cutting the hair of pedestrians on the street with scissors, they dared not enter the city.There are also those who don't want to cut their hair and put their braids up in their hats.In short, an old era will not end overnight. Tang Shouqian was an important person in the early Republic of China and the first governor of Zhejiang after the Revolution of 1911.He usually wears a homemade jacket, a straw hat, sandals and a paper umbrella in his hand, just like a local old farmer.Later, he served as the director of transportation and the supervisor of the railway bureau, and he always dressed like this.It is said that once Tang took a boat from Songjiang to Longhua, Shanghai to inspect the project. A businessman in the official cabin thought that this old man had dirty hands and feet, and suspected that he had stolen his silver plug.Soup ignored it.When the ship arrived at the shore, tens of thousands of people lined the road to welcome Governor Tang. When the businessman saw this scene, he was suddenly frightened and fell to his knees.Tang laughed. In the summer of 1918, Zhang Yuanji's family traveled to Beijing and lived in No. 38 and No. 39 Beijing Hotel, where father and son, mother and daughter each had a room.At that time, Zhang's children were still in their teens, and felt that everything in Beijing was different from Shanghai, and it was very fresh.One day, when the Zhang family was dining in the western restaurant of the Beijing Hotel, two men and two women came in. The women were both wearing cheongsams, one pink and one light green, with a bun on their hair.Mrs. Zhang Yuanji said that this was the dress of the upper-class women of the banner people, and she must be a Manchu nobleman.At that time, Han women all wore skirts, and cheongsams became fashionable only after the 1920s.The Zhang family siblings stared at the two women for a long time, thinking, how can we see this in Shanghai. In the autumn of 1927, Zhang Yuanji was kidnapped and imprisoned for six days and nights.During the period, the kidnappers were surprised to find that there were holes in the sweater Zhang was wearing. They did not expect that the "God of Wealth" in their minds was also wearing torn clothes. In the Beiping era, intellectuals mostly wore blue coats, trousers, and second-hand leather shoes; otherwise, they wore Chinese-style clothing and trousers with a folded waist.It is easy to separate.Scholar Deng Yunxiang said: "There is no one in the city who sells watermelons wearing Western-style trousers." Not only in Beiping, Sheng Shuzhen said in the article "Recalling My Relationship with Yin Fu": "He (Yin Fu) looked a little bit He is dark, not tall, with western hair (split), wearing a light blue patriotic cloth gown, suit pants, and a pair of old leather shoes on his feet, with a chic literati demeanor." After the fall of Peiping, the life of the citizens plummeted.Scholar Zhao Yintang is so poor that he only wears a ripped sheepskin robe in winter. When teaching students, the ripped sheepskin looks like noodles, and it falls from the cuffs from time to time, and he stuffs it back from time to time, dripping and messing with it. On August 15, 1944, Zhang Ailing's first collection of novels was published by Shanghai "Magazine" and sold out in four days. On the afternoon of August 26, the "Magazine" held a tea party at Shanghai Kangle Restaurant, inviting some people from the cultural circles and readers in Shanghai to have a discussion.At that time Zhang Ailing and Hu Lancheng had just married, and Hu Lancheng recalled: "Ms. Zhang Ailing was wearing an orange-yellow silk jacket and a blue skirt like the cover. Her hair was curled around her temples, and the rest was long. Tortoiseshell glasses, lipstick, demeanor is calm and dignified." Before the Anti-Japanese War, if you met a person wearing gold-rimmed glasses, a blue cloth coat, and a suit of mille-soled shoes in a public place in Beiping, you would ask, "Where are you congratulating?" After returning from the United States, I have a few hours of classes in Tsinghua University..." If the same situation happened in Shanghai, the other party would definitely be wearing a neat suit, carrying a large leather bag, and a cigar in his mouth.When asked about his occupation, he will open his purse, take out his business card and hand it to you, and at the same time report: "Ph.D. in engineering from Cornell University, professor at Hujiang University, and lecturer at Guanghua University..." Professor John Ma of Tsinghua University wears the same dress all year round: short-sleeved shirts, bow ties, hunting shorts, and woolen socks. Hu Shi is a new figure with an American background, but his attire is another matter.When he was the president of Peking University, he always wore a blue cloth gown, which was covered over a leather robe or cotton gown in winter, and a clip gown in spring and autumn. In addition to wearing a summer cloth Hangfang gown during the scorching heat, he usually also wore a single blue cloth gown. When Hu Shi was the president of Peking University, the Chinese Department held a meeting one winter, and Hu also attended.After the meeting, Hu Shi came out with Yang Zhensheng and Tang Lan.Yang Zhensheng was wearing a Chinese-style overcoat with an otter-skin collar and a tall otter-skin Turkish hat, with a pipe in his mouth, walking in the front.Hu Shi, wearing a cotton robe and a blue blouse, walked behind Yang Zhensheng, and carried a purse for Yang.At first glance, Yang looks like a principal, and Hu looks more like the principal's secretary. After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, Yu Pingbo taught classical literature at Peking University.Deng Yunxiang was a student of the Chinese Department at that time, and he was listening to lectures below.Once when Yu talked about Du's poems, he cited many examples from the classics.It was winter, the classroom faced south, and there was plenty of sunlight. Deng couldn't resist the temptation of the warmth, and felt sleepy.So he simply gave up listening to the class and began to observe the teacher's attire. Deng later recalled: "(Yu Pingbo) wore a black lambskin Turkish-style tall leather cap, an indanthrene blue cloth coat on the outside, and a cotton robe made of navy blue silk inside. The gown is about two inches shorter than the cotton gown. It is obvious that the gown was as long as the cotton gown when it was new, but after washing it shrunk and became shorter and shorter. The inside is black cotton trousers, and the trouser legs are about two inches longer than the cotton gown, covered with cotton trousers They were originally leggings, but they didn’t have leggings at the back, and they were longer than cotton robes when they were untied. Such a three-section attire left a deep impression on me.” Among the professors, Gu Sui can be regarded as one with outstanding appearance, demeanor, skills, and manners.When he attends classes in winter, he wears a spring silk-lined velvet robe inside, a silk or squirrel robe over his coat, and a large fur fox-leg robe on the outside, with a black wool scarf five or six feet long wrapped around the fox-leg robe.It is said that this kind of dressing method was unique among the old gentlemen in Peking.After entering the classroom, he took off his scarf first, and then took off his robes one by one as he went to the podium.When class is about to end, put on one by one. The first wife of painter Ye Qianyu, Luo Caiyun, was an illiterate village girl who had never worn leather shoes since she was a child.When they got married, there was a pair of leather shoes in the dowry, which they wore when they arrived in Shanghai.The stairs in the alley house in Shanghai are narrow and steep. Luo once accidentally fell down halfway down the stairs while wearing leather shoes, and was bedridden for several days without being able to move. Chen Yinke has studied in Europe and America for more than ten years, and after returning to China, he still wears a rustic attire—a coat, cloth trousers and cloth shoes in summer; Wear trousers with leg ties, and wear thick cotton shoes. Xiong Shili dressed among monks and laymen, often wearing white cloth high socks. During the Anti-Japanese War, Zhu Ziqing was a professor at Southwest Associated University in Kunming, and he usually wore a felt cape that was popular among caravans. When Lin Yutang lived in Shanghai, he rarely wore a suit.He usually wears long robes, mandarin jackets and cloth shoes, and is dressed like a master of the Beijing school.He believes that Chinese-style clothes are comfortable to wear, and the limbs are free. Wearing a suit is like being tied up, and you can't move, especially if you tie a dozen ties, you can't breathe.Lin refers to the tie as a "dog collar" in reference to his distaste for suits. During the Beiping period, many university professors, including many professors who had returned from overseas and even world-renowned professors, usually wore gowns, copied their hands and spoke foreign languages, such as Nietzsche, Darwin, Kant, Shakespeare... from Gu Hongming to Mei Yiqi, Pan Guangdan, Hu Shi Wait, that's exactly what it is. In the 1920s and 1930s, pawnshops in Beijing did not accept cheongsams.Because the styles of cheongsams are changing too fast, if they are not redeemed, they cannot be sold after death, nor can they be used for other purposes, so they can only rot in the shop. Lu Jiye is fat and slovenly.Liang Shiqiu said: "His clothes are never tidy. He usually wears a wrinkled robe. It is common for him to forget to button up the buttons under his neck. There is a layer of dust on the old shoes and socks. Looking at him like that, he looks like a Jianghu. A top-notch person who sells divination on the internet." In Lu Xun's later years, the female writer Xiao Hong was a frequent visitor to his home.Lu Xun and Xiao Hong had many casual conversations, such as clothes, Lu Xun said: "I can't see who is wearing what clothes..." Once, Xiao Hong went to Lu Xun's house wearing a fiery red coat and asked: "Mr. Zhou, isn't my dress pretty?" Lu Xun glanced from top to bottom and said, "Not very pretty." Looks good, a red jacket should be paired with a red skirt, otherwise it’s a black skirt, and brown ones won’t work, these two colors are very cloudy when put together... Haven’t you seen foreigners walking on the street? Never wear a skirt underneath. A green skirt with a purple blouse on top, and no red skirt with a white blouse..." As for Lu Xun's own attire, Xiao Hong said: "Mr. Lu Xun doesn't wear gloves or scarves. Wearing a black stone blue cotton robe, a gray felt hat on his head, and black canvas rubber-soled shoes on his feet." Tang Tao recalled the first time he met Lu Xun and said: "That day he was wearing a blue-gray gabardine leather robe and black rubber-soled running shoes. The upper half was an old man, and the lower half was a young man—he is an old man who is forever young." Lu Xun never cared about clothes.One day, he went to Chinachem Building to visit Smedley.Mending looked him up and down and said, "Go through the back door!" The back door of this kind of restaurant is usually for "lower people".Lu Xun walked around to the elevator at the back door, and the elevator driver looked him up and down, and said, "Go up the stairs!" Lu Xun had no choice but to climb the stairs again and again.I have seen Smedley, and when I left, it is said that Shi usually sees off guests only up to the door of the room and never goes beyond the threshold, but this time he made an exception and sent Lu Xun to the door of the hotel, and shook hands with Lu Xun respectfully and cordially to say goodbye , After watching Lu Xun's back go away, he turned back.The gatekeeper and the elevator worker who blocked Lu Xun with foul language just now were all dumbfounded and didn't know why. Around 1921, the Commercial Press wanted to recruit Hu Shi from Peking University to become the director of the translation institute.In the summer of that year, Hu Shi went to Shanghai for an on-the-spot investigation and talked to the employees of the translation office one by one, and Mao Dun was also one of the interviewees.Mao Dun later recounted his impression of Hu Shi: "I just think the clothes of this great professor are a bit strange. He is wearing a silk gown, western-style pants, black stockings, and yellow leather shoes. I have never seen such a combination of Chinese and Western attire at the time. I thought: This is a symbol of Hu Shizhi's personality. Seven or eight years later, many wealthy young masters in Shiliyangchang will also dress like this, whether they learned it from Hu Shi, that is unknown." Chen Yinke was knowledgeable but weak in constitution, and was extremely afraid of the cold. When he was teaching at Tsinghua University, he told Jin Yuelin that he had a mink vest and never took it off in winter. Jin Yuelin is afraid of light and wears a tennis cap all year round.Ren Jiyu, a student of Southwest Associated University, recalled: "Mr. Jin wears a sun hat in winter, and Mr. Zhu Ziqing wears a suit in winter and wears a white cloak worn by a Kunming horse driver. Wang Zengqi, a Southwest Associated student, recalled: "(Jin Yuelin) is quite tall, and he often wears a tobacco-yellow bearskin jacket. When it's cold, he wears a long camel-colored cashmere scarf inside." Lin Weiyin was a young poet in Shanghai in the 1930s. His name is similar to that of the talented woman Lin Huiyin, which may cause misunderstandings.Shi Zhecun said: "This man behaves strangely. He often wears black silk shorts and trousers in summer. When he walks on the road, sometimes a white handkerchief is exposed in the left breast pocket, just like wearing a suit. Sometimes a flower is hung in the buttonhole. Bai Lanhua. One night, he was caught by an Indian policeman on a secluded road, thinking he was a 'sanggong' (male prostitute)." People in Shanghai pay attention to clothing, in other words, they value appearance, and they have to live in a dignified way even if they have nothing to do with their homes.It is said that there is a group of people who go to the bathhouse in the morning and hand over their suits, shirts, ties, trousers, underwear, socks, leather shoes, etc. to the bathhouse for washing, ironing and oiling, and take a bath and rest by themselves.At noon, I called for dinner and went to the bathroom to eat.In the afternoon, I stepped out of the bathroom with a new look inside and out.As the saying goes, "Don't be afraid of fire from the sky", because he wears all his belongings on his body. During the period of Southwest Associated University, one day, a girl went from the South Campus (female dormitory) to the new campus. It was already dark and there was no one on the road. She heard the footsteps of Ti Litulu behind her, thinking that the bad guys were chasing her. ,very nervous.Looking back, it was Zeng Zhaolun, a professor of chemistry.I once wore a pair of shoes that were unprecedented (the toes were exposed) and unprecedented (the heel was rotten, I couldn't lift it up, so I could only half-slip it) shoes, so there was a sudden sound in the ladder. When Cao Juren was teaching at Jinan University, a friend surnamed Qian picked up his mother and sister from Zhejiang to Nanjing, and passed by Shanghai. Cao said out of friendship, "he must entertain him well."He wore a long blue cloth gown with broken cuffs to meet his friend's family. Unexpectedly, the friend's mother took people by clothes and hats, and was very indifferent to Cao, thinking that Cao was here to borrow money.Cao sat still and did not leave, Qian's mother seemed very upset.Later, Cao invited them to lunch and ordered a table of dishes. Mother Qian thought that Cao was here to eat and drink.When Cao went to pay the bill, Qian's mother was worried that Cao would be rich for a while and regret it later.After the meal, Qian went there when he had something to do, and Cao Juren played with them all day.It wasn't until the evening that Qian explained their friendship and Cao Juren's living conditions clearly that his mother suddenly realized. Cao Juren's other encounter with clothing was the second year after the end of the Anti-Japanese War.He was in Nanjing at the time, and was invited to a bank banquet. The banquet was full of guests, and only two of the guests wore khaki tunic suits. One of them was Cao Juren.The same style of Zhongshan suit is also the work clothes of bank workers.During the banquet, a distinguished guest reached out and handed the bowl to Cao Juren, asking him to serve the rice. Zhang Chonghe, a talented girl from Peking University, never went to school since she was a child, and studied poetry and music at home.Later, when she was admitted to Peking University, she scored zero in mathematics and 100 in Chinese, and was finally admitted.Zhang Chonghe often wears a Little Red Riding Hood. He is very active in Peking University and is nicknamed "Little Red Riding Hood". The cartoonist Ma Xingchi is one of the originators of domestic cartoons. Although he is famous for a while, it is difficult to get rid of poverty.One summer, he went to a friend's dinner party. The weather was hot that day, everyone was wearing vests and shorts, and only Ma was wearing a long shirt.The master asked him to undress, but he declined repeatedly.The master repeatedly asked him why, only to find out that he was wearing a pair of ripped trousers with seven holes and eight holes, and borrowed a long gown to hide his embarrassment. Li Zhun was the admiral of the Guangdong Navy during the Xuantong period, and he was a senior member of the first rank in the former Qing Dynasty.After the Republic of China, he lived in Tianjin. Some people saw him dressed like this: a long robe with yellow half arms.This is because the original yellow mandarin jacket is useless, and its sleeves are removed.At that time, he bought a street in Tianjin, lived in a place for himself, and rented out the rest. The tenants still called him "Junmen" when they saw his attire. Liu Wendian is unkempt, and usually wears a long gown that sweeps the floor, similar to the skirts worn by women before the Revolution of 1911. He can't see his feet, so he has to walk slowly.He occasionally wears leather shoes, which are worn out and dirty, and never oiled.