Chapter 71 Article 70 on the water
The terrain of Jiangsu is very flat, and it is the province with the lowest terrain.If China is a big slope with many steps, Jiangsu is basically on the bottom step.China's terrain is high in the west and low in the east. The average altitude of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is more than 4,000 meters, and it becomes lower and flatter as it goes east.Looking up to the west, the Chengdu Plain in the southwest feels like a very low depression, with an average altitude of only 500 meters. However, compared with the lower-lying eastern Jiangsu, the Chengdu Plain seems to be resting on the roof of a skyscraper.At present, the tallest building in the world is Taiwan's 101 Building, which is 509 meters high, which is exactly equivalent to the altitude of the Chengdu Plain. Compared with the tall Chengdu people, Jiangsu people have the impression that they live on the ground floor, and the shortest one lives in the basement. .
The area of the Jiangsu Plain accounts for about two-thirds of the total area of the province, the largest proportion in the country.The Xuhuai Plain, Lixiahe Plain, Binhai Plain, and Yangtze River Delta Plain are all below 50 meters above sea level, and more than half of them are below 5 meters.Don't say that it is difficult to compare with the plateau in the west. Compared with the altitude of 200 meters in the Northeast Plain and the altitude of 100 meters in the North China Plain, it is still a very low figure below 5 meters.In some areas of the Yangtze River Delta, the coastal areas in northern Jiangsu have an average elevation of less than two meters, and the lowest point is along the Sheyang River in northern Jiangsu, with an average elevation of only 0.6 meters.
Studies have shown that in the past 30 years, the sea level along China's coasts has risen by 9 centimeters. Among them, Tianjin's coast has risen the fastest, with 20 centimeters, followed by Shanghai, with 12 centimeters. Liaoning, Shandong, and Zhejiang have all exceeded 10 centimeters, and Fujian and Guangdong are relatively low. 5 to 6 cm.The overall trend is "high in the north and low in the south", with rapid rises along the coast of Tianjin and the Yangtze River Delta, and slow rises along the coasts of Fujian and Guangdong.According to forecasts, the rising trend of China's coastal sea level will further intensify in the future. Compared with 2000, China's coastal sea level will rise by 13 to 22 centimeters in 2050.If environmental problems are not improved, global warming continues, water levels continue to rise, and seawater floods back, Jiangsu may be the first to disappear on the Chinese map.
There are no big mountains in Jiangsu, only some very short hills, and a few hills, most of which are concentrated in the north and southwest, accounting for about 14.3% of the total area of Jiangsu, which is the smallest proportion in China.Jiangsu's topography is high in the north and south in the middle and low in the middle, like an upside-down saddle. The highest mountain is in Lianyungang, the main peak of Yuntai Mountain on the coast of the Yellow Sea, Yunv Peak, 625 meters above sea level.Considering that most of the peaks are not high in altitude, Yuntai Mountain is basically the Himalayas in Jiangsu.Yixing, located in the southwest, can also be jokingly called the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau of Jiangsu. This place borders Anhui and Zhejiang. It is a low mountain and hilly area. The mountains all extend east-west, with an absolute height of more than 500 meters. The highest peak is the top of the Yellow Tower. The altitude is 611.5 meters.
We have already said that in terms of geography, Jiangsu has two data worth noting. The proportion of plain area is the largest in the country, and the proportion of low mountains and hills is the lowest in the country. People who like mountaineering are obviously not suitable for this place. Play.In addition to being low and flat with few mountains, one of the most notable features of Jiangsu is the water town of Zeguo.There are "five major freshwater lakes" in China, and Jiangsu accounts for two, namely Taihu Lake and Hongze Lake.There are more than 2,900 rivers and nearly 300 lakes in Jiangsu. The rivers and lakes are densely covered with water networks. The Yangtze River runs through the territory for about 400 kilometers, and the Grand Canal runs through the territory for about 690 kilometers.Jiangsu's inland water area is 17,300 square kilometers, accounting for 16.9% of the province's total area, and it is the province with the largest proportion of inland water in the country.
The area of inland waters is larger than the area of low mountains and hills, which is unique in the whole country.Except for Jiangsu, all other provinces have mountainous areas larger than inland water areas.Against the backdrop of increasingly tight global water resources, Jiangsu's abundant water area is a very valuable asset.The main rivers and lakes in Jiangsu belong to the three major water systems of Yishu River, Huaihe River and Yangtze River respectively.The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal and the Northern Subei Irrigation Canal and other artificially excavated channels connect the main rivers and lakes of the province into a complete waterway system, which not only facilitates drainage, irrigation and shipping, but also serves as a good resource for water tourism activities.
In other words, as long as tourists are willing, you can travel around Jiangsu by boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery along the way.Waterways extend in all directions, which is a strange landscape in Jiangsu. The Changjiang Huaihe River Subei Irrigation Canal connects east and west, and the Grand Canal connects north and south. For many years, they have been the most important traffic arteries in Jiangsu.Jiangsu is not very suitable for mountain tours, but it is very suitable for playing in the water. As long as tourists are willing, you can take a boat to visit most cities in Jiangsu like Kangxi and Qianlong. You can visit the Qinhuai River in Nanjing and the Kui River in Xuzhou. You can visit the Haohe River in Nantong, travel around Suzhou, Wuxi, and Changzhou along the Grand Canal and its affiliated waterways, appreciate Yangzhou, Zhenjiang, and experience Huai'an and Suqian.
Jiangsu's splendid articles cannot be separated from a word of water.If the articles on the water are done well, Jiangsu will have a bright future.Because the west is high and the east is low, many places in Jiangsu, such as the vast Lixia River area, can fully use the water level drop for self-flow irrigation.It's like installing giant water taps everywhere. When you need water, you just turn the switch.A steady stream of water is not only the lifeblood of agricultural production, but also a necessary condition for a considerable part of industrial production.From the perspective of planting, the water used per hectare during the growth period of crops is 23 to 34 tons for wheat, 22 to 27 tons for cotton, 31 to 40 tons for sugar beet, and rice must be grown in paddy fields.From the perspective of animal husbandry, it takes 31.5 tons of water to produce 1 kg of beef.From an industrial perspective, the production of 1 ton of steel requires 20 to 40 tons of water, 1 ton of paper requires 200 to 400 tons of water, 1 ton of man-made fibers requires 1,200 to 1,800 tons of water, and the production of 1 ton of synthetic rubber requires as much as 2.75 tons of water. tons.
Jiangsu faces the Yellow Sea in the east, has a coastline of 954 kilometers, and faces South Korea, North Korea and Japan across the sea.However, on this long coastline, there are more tidal flats, and there are not many places that are really suitable for building deep-sea piers.Fortunately, the Jiangsu section of the Yangtze River is a deep-water channel. Sea-going ships can enter the hinterland of Jiangsu along the Yangtze River. Ships below Nanjing can navigate 10,000-ton ships all year round, which is very convenient for ocean-going and river-sea direct transportation business.
Jiangsu is traditionally divided into two parts, Jiangnan and Jiangbei, with the Yangtze River as the boundary.Jiangbei can be further divided into central Jiangsu and northern Jiangsu, roughly bounded by the Huaihe River.Obviously, there are great differences between them, and it is these differences that form a kind of cultural diversity.
In fact, Southern Jiangsu was originally an administrative concept. In the early 1950s, Jiangsu set up the Southern Jiangsu Administrative Office and the Northern Jiangsu Administrative Office.Within a few years, the Administrative Office was abolished, and the name South of Jiangsu and North of Jiangsu continued to be used. It is basically a geographical concept. The so-called South of Jiangsu means that everyone is located in the south of the Yangtze River.Before the name Sunan appeared, the more traditional names were Jiangnan and Jiangbei.
The five province-administered cities in the south of the Yangtze River are arranged in a line from west to east along the Shanghai-Nanjing line. They are Nanjing, Zhenjiang, Changzhou, Wuxi, and Suzhou.Although both belong to the south of the Yangtze River, there are many differences between Ningzhen at the west end and Suxichang at the east end. In the eyes of the people in Suxichang, Nanjing Zhenjiang is almost the same as northern Jiangsu. If you ask anyone in the local area, especially in the countryside, you may be mistaken for the neighbors Zhenjiang and Suxichang. Given the location of Nanjing, one would take it for granted that they should be in Jiangbei.This is obviously related to the dialect. Although Ning Zhen and Su Xichang are neighbors, they belong to different dialect areas.Suxichang in the Wu dialect area is relatively developed economically. Especially after the Ming and Qing Dynasties, this place has become a world-renowned land of fish and rice, and has become the most important grain base in the country.It is inevitable that people will change their faces when they become rich, and their feelings will inevitably be good. People's eyes will be different immediately. This of course includes Shanghainese and Zhejiang people who belong to the same dialect system. In their disdainful eyes, anyone who speaks other than Wu dialect He is a "Jiangbei native".
"Suhu is familiar, the world is full", it refers to the area of Suxichang.This area has a good harvest, and the hungry Chinese will no longer go hungry.This is also the most affluent prime location in the Yangtze River Delta, with a high population density, the highest in China and the most densely populated place in the world.Because there are so many people and so little land, there has always been a tradition of intensive farming.For many years, southern Jiangsu has been enjoying the superiority of the "Land of Fish and Rice" and is proud of it. Many people believe that it is related to the traditional Chinese character "Su" because there are "he" and "fish" under the beginning of the word "grass". , the so-called synthesis of providence is also.This is actually what Mr. Kaizi often does. It is a typical literal meaning. Philologists do not agree with this view. The original meaning of "Su" is just a herb, and the interpretation of "Yuhe" is completely taken for granted.
Prosperity is also a kind of tradition in a sense, it takes time to accumulate, and it must not be accomplished overnight.For the economic development of a region, sustainable growth is very important. After all, prosperity is still a kind of culture, and the problem of poverty cannot be solved simply by rushing.Southern Jiangsu has a long history of prosperity, and at different times, people in southern Jiangsu with business traditions are better at seizing opportunities.Today, the reputation of the Land of Fish and Rice is becoming a passing history.Sunan obviously didn't care about giving this laurel crown, which had been worn for thousands of years, to his brothers from northern Jiangsu who were rising across the river bank and who were relatively poor.In terms of how to make a fortune, the smart people in southern Jiangsu are always ahead of the conservative people in northern Jiangsu.The reform and opening up in the 1980s completely overturned the farming tradition that people in southern Jiangsu are proud of.The new "Southern Jiangsu Model" started as a township enterprise, and through bold and even outrageous investment promotion, it is gradually transforming this place into a world factory.
After these years of sudden changes, the idyllic life in the south of the Yangtze River has long since ceased to exist. The agricultural society is rapidly transforming into an industrial society. The urbanization level of the southern Jiangsu plate according to population has exceeded 60%, which is rapidly approaching the standard of industrialized countries.Obviously, for Sunan, the world's factory is not the best choice. Perhaps on the road to continued prosperity, this is a threshold that must be passed, and it is destined to be satisfactory, but the environmental pollution caused , loss of agricultural land and other issues, will likely plague and affect the quality of life of the people of southern Jiangsu in the future.
In history, Jiangbei used to be richer than Jiangnan. Today, the Taihu Lake Basin, which is so rich, was still a weedy swamp, and the development of Jiangbei had already begun to take shape.In terms of innate conditions, Central Jiangsu in the north of the Yangtze River, like Southern Jiangsu, belongs to the Yangtze River Delta and can become an economically prosperous area, but the fact is that as everyone knows, it is much poorer and is not at the same economic level.Statistics show that among the 13 prefecture-level cities in Jiangsu, the economy in northern Jiangsu is even worse. Suqian, Xuzhou, Lianyungang, Huai'an and Yancheng, together with five cities, have a total area of more than half of Jiangsu province and a population of two-fifths of the province. , the total GDP accounts for only one-fifth of the province's total, and the per capita GDP is less than one-half of the province's average level.
The historical reason for this huge difference is first of all man-made disasters, while natural misdeeds can still be saved, but man-made misdeeds are often beyond control.It is said that the Yellow River is the mother river, without her there would be no Chinese nation, and without her there would be no 5,000-year Chinese culture.The water of the Yellow River comes up from the sky, rushes to the sea and never returns.The rolling silt in the Yellow River has brought us a large piece of land like gold on the one hand, and on the other hand has brought endless disasters.The Yellow River seems to be a restless woman in menopause, and the day will be flooded.Since ancient times, 30 years in the east, 40 years in the west, the lower reaches of the Yellow River have been swaying back and forth like a giant dragon's tail. They have always relocated and changed their course on the Hebei Plain. Every time they changed their course, they brought disaster to the local people. .The Yellow River is a purely northern river. It had nothing to do with Jiangsu. After all, there was a huge Shandong in the middle. In 1128, in order to prevent the Jin soldiers from going south, Du Chong, the left-behind governor of Tokyo in the Southern Song Dynasty, opened a river in the southwest of Huaxian County, Henan Province. As a result, the Yellow River changed its course, passing through the east of Henan and the southwest of Shandong, into Surabaya, and finally into the Huaihe River, and began to flow unstoppably into the territory of Jiangsu.
The diversion of the Yellow River has caused disastrous consequences in northern Jiangsu. The Huaihe River that traverses the territory of Jiangsu was originally a very clear river. Before that, there were very few major floods in the vast Jianghuai Plain. Breaking in, the peaceful North of Jiangsu will never be at peace.It can be said that before the diversion of the Yellow River, although the economic conditions of Jiangnan and Jiangbei were somewhat different, they were basically in sync. After the diversion into northern Jiangsu, the economy of the Jianghuai Plain immediately plummeted.The Yellow River has been running rampant in Jiangsu for more than 700 years, and it was diverted to Shandong into the sea again in 1855. The deterioration of the ecological environment caused by it has been irreversible.
In terms of human-caused disasters, it must be mentioned that the Ming Dynasty "build embankments to collect water and attack sand with water".The so-called "building embankments to restrain water" means to build embankments as high as possible.This is a water control policy to ensure water transportation. Not only did it not change the flood of the Yellow River in Jiangsu, but it made the river bed higher and higher.At that time, the canal from Xuzhou to Huaiyin and the Yellow River had become the same waterway. In order to ensure the smooth flow of the Grand Canal and ensure the safe arrival of millions of shi of grain and tribute materials to the capital every year, this section of the river became an elevated Tianhe River in the sky and became the Yellow River at that time. The most dangerous section.
If you look at the maps of China before the Southern Song Dynasty, you will know that the Hongze Lake in history was far from being as mighty as it is today. It was fortunate to be able to rank as the fourth largest freshwater lake in China, entirely because of man-made reasons.In order to raise the water level, the Hongze Lake Dam was built higher and higher, and finally became the largest "hanging lake" in the world.This is not a joke, it means that the entire Hongze Lake is on the top of Subei's big head. Once the lake weir breaches, it will immediately "be thousands of miles away, with torrents of water", and immediately "fish swim through the city pass, A boat sails through the treetops".For a long time, floods in northern Jiangsu have been too numerous to record. With the continuous increase of dams, the disaster situation has become more and more serious. During the 280 years from 1575 to 1855, Gaojiayan levee breached more than 140 times.A big flood in the 19th year of Kangxi simply flooded the ancient city of Sizhou. The flood not only washed away the Dragon King Temple, but also engulfed Zhu Yuanzhang Laozi's tomb and Ming Zu Mausoleum in the vast lake.
It is said that wealth is a kind of accumulation. Frequent floods make the people in northern Jiangsu endure huge disasters again and again, and they will go bankrupt at every turn, and poverty is naturally inevitable.When the water came, it caused disasters, and the fertile land became a vast ocean in an instant. When the water went away, disasters continued, leaving a large swamp that could not be vented for a long time. As a result, the salinization of the soil became more and more serious.As we all know, saline-alkali land is another important cause of poverty in northern Jiangsu. For many years, the Xuhuai salt area has had to fight unremittingly against saline-alkali land.After the Yellow River was diverted again, years of floods have not been completely eliminated with the departure of the Yellow River. The problems left by it have always been the heart disease of northern Jiangsu, and the serious threat of Hongze Lake to the downstream has always existed.
In addition, due to the low-lying terrain in the eastern part of northern Jiangsu, in addition to enduring floods that may roll in from the upper reaches at any time, the long coastal area from Funing to Hai'an is also often attacked by sea tides.According to incomplete statistics, in the 984 years from 964 AD to 1948, there were 65 disasters caused by the impact of sea tides in the Yancheng area, and countless people and animals were drowned each time.In the second year of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, that is, in 1724, a huge typhoon uprooted the trees, and the unstoppable tide rushed into Yancheng County. Pieces of houses were washed down, and almost 50,000 people drowned. In 1903, 13 seawalls burst in Rudong County. This time, it seems that there is no way to count the number of people who were drowned.
After many years and generations of comprehensive improvement, the flooding and salinization trends between the Jianghuai and Huaihe Rivers have been greatly improved.Especially in recent years, with the improvement of governance capabilities, the hat of poverty and backwardness is being removed, but there are still many unsatisfactory places.The comprehensive strength of northern Jiangsu is considered the most backward in the whole country, but compared with southern Jiangsu, which has a relatively smooth economic situation, there is obviously a considerable distance.Therefore, to change the gap between Jiangnan and Jiangbei as soon as possible, make northern Jiangsu rich as soon as possible, and make northern Jiangsu a very important and stable fundamental for economic growth. This is where Jiangsu people still need to work together.
Jiangsu is a very wealthy province. At least for now, Jiangsu's economic status is still unshakable.
Speaking from a distance, the area where Jiangsu is located is not very good, especially the south of the Yangtze River, which is not close to the two words of wealth.In China's oldest geographical book "Shangshu·Yugong", China is divided into 9 geographical regions, that is, Kyushu in Lu You's "Shier" poem "But sadly, Kyushu is not the same", among them is located in the south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River. That is, Jiangnan today is designated as the worst area.Before the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Yangzhou referred to Jiangnan, and the land at that time was also divided into nine levels. Great Yangzhou was "Juetian Weixiaxia", ranking first from the bottom.
The number one golden land is Yongzhou, which is located in the Weihe Valley and the Shaanxi-Gansu Loess Plateau north of the Qinling Mountains. People today are a little surprised to hear this ranking, but it was true at the time.Why Qin can unify the world, don't take it for granted that Qin is just backward and cruel, just like some barbarians who are good at fighting as recorded in the novel.The economy is the foundation at any time. Chang'an, the capital of the Han and Tang dynasties, why it can be famous and dare to call itself the most powerful country in the world. The strong economic strength cannot be ignored.In ancient times, the physical and geographical environment of the middle reaches of the Yellow River had not deteriorated, and it was developed relatively early. For a long time, the west of China was more developed than the east, and the wealth in the world was once the most in Guanzhong. It is no wonder that Sima Qian said that , The land in Guanzhong occupies one-third of the world, the population is only three-tenths, but the wealth accounts for six-tenths.
However, the situation changed quickly. By the time of the Tang Dynasty, although China's political center was still in Chang'an, and the emperor was still working there, the economic center had gradually moved eastward and southward.Yangzhou, a poor village in the past, threw away the green hat from the bottom of the backward, and became the leader of China and the richest owner.Of course, this Yangzhou is still the concept of Greater Yangzhou, covering almost the entire lower reaches of the Yangtze River.With one hundred thousand guan in his waist, he rode down to Yangzhou on a crane. At this time, it was the turn of Han Yu, the leader of the Eight Great Masters of Ancient Chinese, to express his emotion. After the great development of Sun Wu, Dong Jin and Southern Dynasties, the lower reaches of the Yangtze River became the most economically developed area, and the taxation of the world is already "Jiangnan occupies nineteenth", that is to say, it accounts for nine out of ten. Whether it is "the great plan of the world, look up to the southeast" or "the foundation of the country, look up to the southeast", both show the importance of the economy here at that time.
In the Ming Dynasty, just comparing the taxes of the two Zhili in the north and the south, you can clearly see the huge difference in economic strength between the north and the south.According to Zhang Dai's "Night Sailing Boat", Beizhili has 8 prefectures, 17 prefectures and 116 counties with a tax of 601,000 yuan, and South Zhili has 14 prefectures and 17 prefectures and 96 counties with a tax of 5.995 million yuan. 10 times that of Zhili.It may sound harsh to say that the South feeds the North, but that is more or less the truth.According to historical records, in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, Nanzhili's taxes accounted for nearly one-third of the country's total.After separating from Anhui, the taxes in Jiangsu, especially in Jiangnan, are still high. For example, the Yangtze River Delta has always enjoyed the reputation of "half of the world's taxes and taxes".
For a long time, Jiangsu's economy has always been an important pillar of national finance.After the reform and opening up, especially in terms of total GDP in recent years, Jiangsu's ranking has begun to lag behind, ranking third in recent years, after Guangdong and Shandong, which are also developed coastal provinces. In terms of GDP, Jiangsu is still ahead of Guangdong and Shandong in terms of per capita contribution.
People in Jiangsu are hard-working, which is a very fine tradition.Jiangsu is very rich, and sometimes being rich is just an appearance, which can be analyzed in many ways.The common people at the bottom have never been the masters of spending money recklessly, and they have nothing to do with extravagant life.Under the heavy pressure of taxation, it will always be the working people at the bottom who suffer, and the poor living at the bottom will always be the ones who endure the hard work.Historically, the very wealthy in Jiangsu have traditionally made more contributions and married others.Culture is primarily determined by history and geography, but also constrained by politics and economics.Compared with the Central Plains, although Jiangsu was developed relatively late, its economic development speed and degree of development are astonishing.Objectively speaking, high taxes are not only a heavy pressure on Jiangsu, but also a good driving force to promote production and develop the economy.For a long time, Jiangsu not only has to make more financial contributions to the strong central government, but also to share the government's worries and problems economically when the country is in a weak position and has to pay tribute to the enemy.During the Southern Song Dynasty, the imperial court paid 250,000 taels of silver coins and 250,000 pieces of silk and satin to the Kingdom of Jin every year. Many of these white silver and dazzling array of silk and satin came from Jiangsu.
The word rich and prosperous is by no means groundless, it will never be for no reason, and it has always been costly. It means that Jiangsu has made a huge contribution to the country, and it means a glory. It also means that the people here are living hard, and it means that they Has an extraordinary hard-working spirit.Toynbee once said in "Historical Studies" that the natural environmental challenges that the Chinese had to deal with were much more serious than those in the Mesopotamia and Nile basins.In "Introduction to Chinese Cultural History", Qian Mu compared ancient China with ancient Egypt, ancient Babylon, and ancient India, and came to the conclusion that among the four ancient civilizations, China had the worst geographical and climatic conditions.Ancient civilizations usually emerged in fertile areas, and unique Chinese culture developed due to barrenness.Because of "barrenness", "there are constantly new stimulations and prospects for new development, and in its civilized production, the virtues of diligence and simplicity are always maintained within society."
This virtue of diligence and simplicity is most vividly displayed in Jiangsu people.It is really not easy for the people of Jiangsu to fight against the sky and the earth, facing the loess and back to the sky.Historians have investigated the progress of Chinese civilization and found a rule. In ancient times, every 500 years or so, China would inevitably experience a great chaos and a major split.The turmoil that caused the people to leave their hometowns is usually simply attributed to the invasion of ethnic minorities or peasant uprisings. In fact, the lack of living materials and the pursuit of daily necessities are also important causes of wars.Jiangsu is located at the junction of the north and the south, and is always located between the two major military groups of the north and the south.In comparison, the military conflicts in northern Jiangsu were more intense, and many famous battles in history were fought here.
The Jianghuai region suffered from wars, and it is doomed that there will be no great future in politics. The common people can only live in the cracks of history and live with the situation.The primary problem caused by the war is the loss of population. Most of the immigrants in Jiangsu are caused by the war.Population loss has triggered large-scale immigration waves. In addition to the entry of immigrants from other northern provinces, every major war may also trigger new large-scale population migration within the province.For example, at the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the population of the Huaiyang area dropped sharply. There were only about 40 aboriginal households in Yangzhou City, and only 7 households in Huai’an City, and there was not a single aboriginal household in Yancheng. Suzhou, according to expert research, during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, as many as 650,000 immigrants were accepted in northern Jiangsu, many of whom were from the south of the Yangtze River.
The ability of laborers to create wealth is astonishing, and the common people in Jiangsu seem not born to sit back and enjoy it.They are born working people, whether in southern Jiangsu or northern Jiangsu, they are busy everywhere.The hard-working character of Jiangsu people is not formed in one day. In the continuous war, they have to calmly face turmoil, death, and displacement. Once the war is over, they must spare no effort to resume production and rebuild their own. home.Since the great development of the Six Dynasties, through the efforts of generations and countless natural and man-made disasters, Jiangsu has finally been built into a prosperous land of fish and rice. At the same time, it has also shaped its excellent character of hard work and hard work.
There are countless bridges in the south of the Yangtze River. Small bridges flow with water, people walk on the bridges, and water flows down the bridges. Everything is very normal.Three hundred and seventy bridges in Spring City, Jiaan Zhulou separated by wicker.In my childhood memory, the bridge is almost flat, the bridge is connected to the road, and the road is connected to the bridge. People lean on the bridge railing and spit into the river childishly.The bridge deck in my memory is very clean, and the water is not as dirty as it is today. Children standing on the bridge can't think of anything else to do except spit.
It was the first time I had a deep impression on the bridge. At the beginning of the Cultural Revolution, an older boy asked us very mysteriously if we could find a way to reach the Confucius Temple without crossing the bridge.This question aroused curiosity and was full of challenges. We skipped school and walked for almost a whole day, detoured when we encountered bridges, and turned back when there was no way.There are many roads leading to the Confucius Temple, big roads, small roads, asphalt roads, cement roads, and cobblestone roads. I stepped on all the roads and finally got the answer. But the bridge, I can only wait and see from the other side.
We ask the same questions of other children, adults who already know everything.The answers I got were similar. All adults who had just heard this question would not believe that they could not reach the Confucius Temple if they crossed the bridge.No one believed that we could walk all the way. An elderly man said we were talking nonsense, and the little boy who was exploring the road together was spanked by his mother with the sole of his shoe because it was so chaotic outside and reckless. Clash, God knows what will happen.We became a group of lying children, everyone thought these children were too naive, Confucius Temple is not an isolated island, it is in the city center, there are so many roads, and it is a place where everyone often goes, some people even walk every day Pass.
I go there often, walk through it every day, and at the end of the day, I have to have doubts about such a simple question as whether to cross the bridge.It's ridiculous that adults are often unwilling to admit their ignorance in front of children.Adults are always right, even if they are wrong.At that time, I didn’t know to look for a map. Maybe if I took out a map, everyone immediately had nothing to say.For a long time, our little brains have always been entangled in this problem. I am a child with low confidence, and more often I would rather believe that I am wrong.Although that road did not exist at all, I still suspect that there may be a secret passage that we have leaked through, and this road leads directly to the Confucius Temple without crossing any bridges.
When the Cultural Revolution became more and more fierce, I went to my grandmother's house in the countryside and went to elementary school there.The elementary school is built on the river slope, and there is a narrow wooden bridge, which is very tall and overhanging in the eyes of children. When people walk on it, they can hear the shaking sound of creaking.
Summer is here, after class, almost all the boys took off their shorts, and jumped into the river with bare buttocks.I'm a kid in the city, and I was a little embarrassed to be under the watchful eyes of everyone at first.At that time, everyone was already naked. If you were wearing a pair of swimming trunks, it would look a little weird.Not only the little boys in the countryside, but also the adults, go down the river with bare buttocks.The only exception is our Chinese teacher. He is a demobilized soldier who has served in the army and pays attention to civilization. I remember someone laughed at him and said: "You don't have two dicks, who cares?"
Children in the country swim, all in the dog-paddle style, and they hear the sound of splashing water. They splash for a long time, but they can't make much progress.I swam faster than all the country kids. I had already swam to the end of the 30-meter river, and those country kids only swam half way.
There were a few girls on the bridge watching us play in the water, and because of the girls watching, I swam faster and faster.The children in the country can't compare their speed, so they compare their boldness with me, who dares to jump off a high bridge.The bridge was indeed a bit high. At first, no one dared to jump. Everyone climbed over the railing of the bridge in fear, pretending to jump, and made gestures for a long time, but they dared not let go.
The girls were chattering and watching, and finally there was a naughty bastard named Monk, who accidentally fell flat on his back like a dumpling, with a bang, splashing a lot of water.The girls screamed in alarm, and the little boy standing outside the bridge railings jumped over the railings quickly, returned to the safe bridge deck, and looked down the bridge while holding the railings.The monk had already emerged from the water, but he lost his courage after the fall. He returned to the bridge wet, jumped over the railing, and jumped down again without saying a word.
The monk was the first little boy who dared to jump from the bridge into the river.In the beginning, he was the only one who dared to do this.Gradually, more and more children dared to jump off the bridge.I was cruel several times, closed my eyes and wanted to jump down, but I refused to let go.My companions ran over to push me, pull my fingers, and stab me with the worst words, but they still didn't dare to jump.
Dare to jump off a high bridge, to put it bluntly, is a psychological barrier, and I regret my timidity at the beginning.Till now, my timidity still accompanies me. In fact, I gritted my teeth and jumped, and the situation later will be completely different.There are some things that I didn't dare to do when I was a child, and even more so when I grow up.Today, I can swim in the water for an hour without a break, but there is still a genuine sense of dread in me jumping off the edge of the pool.
The village across the river from my grandmother's house is called Hedong Village.I still don’t know the name of this village, because only people from my grandmother’s village would call it that.People are from Hedong, so my side is naturally from Hexi.There is an old ancestor in Hexi, east of the river, both surnamed Yao. Yao’s ancestral hall was in Hexi Village. It was the Cultural Revolution at that time, and there was no mention of offering sacrifices to the ancestors.
A small river separates the two villages, and a bridge connects the two villages.Everyone calls this bridge "Turtle Bridge". I don't know why it was named so. It is suspected that there is a mistake. It may be "Wugui Bridge" or "Wugui Bridge".
The two village children often threw clods at each other across the river, picking up the most obscene words and cursing at the same time.Sometimes young men who are already adults will also join in this kind of boring battle.There was a butcher in Hedong Village who raised a dog. Because the dog often had meat and bones to fill its belly, and its coat was shiny, it barked and wanted to bite strangers.When people from Hexi Village go east to see relatives, they must pass through Hedong Village. The dog is also bad. Groups of people pass by, just bark, and when they meet single and timid ones, they will gnash their teeth and rush towards them.
The people in Hexi Village hated the dog so much that they planned to beat it to death and eat it.That dog is spiritual, knowing that someone wants to eat it, no matter how much you coax it, it won't cross the bridge.People in Hedong Village will encounter the same troubles if they go west. There is a dog in Hexi Village.A young man from Hedong Village secretly fell in love with a girl from Hexi Village. The two performed a Romeo and Juliet in the mulberry forest under the bridge. According to the ancestral precepts of not being able to get married, a wedding was hastily arranged.It's a pity that the good times didn't last long, and the marriage was not happy. Although it was only across a river, the girl never wanted to go back to her natal family, and she didn't love her husband at all.
The bridge connecting the two villages has been in disrepair for a long time, and people often fall over it.Fortunately, the river was not deep, and several incidents happened, all of which were safe and sound, and no one was killed.An old lady with small feet fell into the river, and a pregnant woman with a big belly also fell into the river. It happened that someone was watching and was rescued as soon as she fell.I have been in the countryside for more than two years, and I heard the care of adults repeatedly in my ears:
"Be careful when crossing the bridge, don't fall into the river!"
The bridge is the only way for east-west traffic. I still don't understand why we don't work together to repair the bridge.In my memory, there are many idle days, honest and honest young people basking in the sun in the corner, playing poker endlessly, spending a lot of effort to build the "loyalty" archway, but refused to repair the bridge.At that time, I always thought that building a bridge was a great thing, but later I realized that the bridge really needs to be built, and it is not difficult at all.
When I was in middle school, I once saw a resident picking up a goldfish from the Qinhuai River in front of the door.The big one may be raised by someone else, or it may be born naturally. Anyway, the color of the fish is different from the general goldfish in the tank. It is blue and has a big tail.The person who picked up the goldfish kept the fish in a large wooden basin, and many people gathered around to watch and speculate about the origin of the fish.For many days in a row, an important part of our way from school was to see if the fish was still there.The man wanted to sell the big goldfish, but there was no buyer.
In those days, if someone fished by the Qinhuai River with a fishing rod, he would not be considered crazy.秦淮河里确实有鱼，不仅有鱼，还有小虾，孩子们河边玩耍，眼疾手快，用捞鱼虫的小网兜迅速出击，便能有所收获。关于流水的概念，我其实到了很久以后，才逐渐明确起来。童年的记忆中，河水永远在流，这和现在见到的情况完全不同。小时候见到的都是活水，不像现在，动不动就是臭水潭。
小桥流水人家，是典型的江南特色。记得80年代初期，秦淮河排水清淤泥，几个喜欢收藏的朋友闻讯，赶过去淘换宝贝，高高地卷起裤腿，光着脚跳下河，从几尺厚的淤泥中，搜寻前人留下来的文物。忙了几天，把能搜集到的破青瓷碗，有裂纹的花瓶，断的笔架，还算完整的小鼻烟壶，喜气洋洋地都席卷回家。说起来都是有上百年的历史，喜欢古董的朋友就好这个，他们博古架上的供品，有很多好玩意其实就是埋在河底的垃圾。过去年代里走红的妓女，失意的文人，无所事事的贩夫走卒，得志的和不得意的官僚，未必比今天的人更有环保意识，有什么不要的东西往河里一扔，便完事。
不妨想象一下，河水不流，又会怎么样。壤非壤不高，水非水不流。流水不腐，秦淮河要是不流动，早就不复存在。正是因为有了秦淮河，我们才可能在它的淤泥里，重温历史，抚摸过去。这些年来，人们都在抱怨秦淮河水太臭，污染是原因，水流得不畅更是原因。流水是江南繁华的根本，流水落花春去也，看似无情，却是有情。是流水成全了锦绣春色，江南众多的河道，犹如人躯体上的毛细血管，有了流水，江南也就有了生命，就有了无穷无尽的活力。
“昨夜月明江上梦，逆随潮水到秦淮”，这是王安石诗中的佳句。如果说水乡纵横交错的河道，是毛细血管，长江就是大动脉。大江东去，奔腾到海不复还，古人把百川与大海汇合，比喻为诸侯朝见天子。长江厉害，更厉害的却是大海。
江南水乡的人，对潮起潮落有特殊的感受。水往低处流，长江下游，受到潮汐的抵挡，水位迅速变化。以我外婆家后门口的石码头为例，潮来潮去，一天之内的落差，可以有一两米高。清晨起来，河水已泛滥到了后门口，站在门外稍稍弯腰，就可以舀到水。到了下午，滔滔的河水仿佛脸盆被凿了个洞，水差不多全漏光了，要洗碗洗菜，得一口气走下去许多级台阶才行。
现在的江南，已很难看到潮起潮落。到处修了闸，水位完全由人工控制。人的日常生活，和潮汐几乎无关。要说这种变化，也不过是近二三十年的事情。我在农村上小学的时候，吃完饭，大人把锅碗瓢盆放在河边的码头上，慢慢地涨潮了，河水漫上来了，到退潮以后，容器里常会有小鱼留下来，慌慌忙忙地游着。那鱼是一种永远也长不大的品种，一寸左右，大头，看上去有些像蝌蚪。
水乡的男孩子没有不会捉螃蟹的。秋风响，蟹脚痒。30年前，江南水乡，到处可以见到螃蟹，河沟里，田埂旁，捉几个螃蟹来下酒，谈不上一点奢侈。流水螃蟹的生命线，水流到哪里，哪里就有螃蟹的足迹。如今是在梦中，才能重温当年捉螃蟹的情景。要先找螃蟹洞，发现了可疑洞穴，便往里泼水。如果有一道细细的黑线涌出来，说明洞里一定有螃蟹，于是就用一种铁丝做的钩子，伸进去，将那螃蟹活生生地揪出来。
这是一种野蛮操作，螃蟹会受伤，受了伤很快会死，死螃蟹绝对不能食用，所以不是吃饭前，一般不用这种下策。聪明的办法是用草和稀泥和成一团，将洞堵死，然后在旁边做上记号，隔三四个小时再来智取。取时手穿过堵塞物，沿着洞壁慢慢伸进去，抓住螃蟹的脚，另一只手拿开堵塞物，螃蟹也就手到擒来。螃蟹意识到氧气不足的时候，会不得不往洞口爬。如此捉蟹的方法，关键要掌握好时间，太短了，手刚伸进去，螃蟹还未进入昏迷状态，仍然要往后逃，太长，便会憋死。
苏州人嘴里，河与湖发同样的音。这种巧合，反映了江南人对水的看法，在长江下游的人眼里，河与湖没什么太大区别。
我有个亲戚阿文在江南水乡插队当知青，按辈分，比我小一辈，按年龄，却比我大了差不多10岁。他长得非常帅，而且聪明，一转眼，在乡下已经当了5年知青，中学里学过的教材仍然不肯丢，没事就看书，还偷偷自修英语。他中学学的是俄语，当时中国和苏联关系紧张，原来学的那点俄语根本没什么用。记得有一次说好了一起去赶集，他兴冲冲借了条船回来，笑着说：
“明天我们一起坐船去，我正好要去接一个人。”
在水乡，船是最重要的交通工具。知青下乡，首先要学的就是摇橹。我曾经尝试过许多次，划不了几下，橹就会掉下来。第二天一大早，阿文打扮得干干净净，扛着一个橹接我来了。那天走了很多路，去镇上的路并不遥远，可是船在镇边上停了一下，就马不停蹄继续赶路。去镇上只是一个幌子，我因此跟着他坐了整整一天的船，还饿得半死。后来才知道他要去接的人，是个女孩子，是阿文朋友的女朋友。春光明媚，正是菜花开放的季节，菜花金黄，麦苗青翠，天空中飘着大朵大朵的白云。阿文的朋友被推荐上了大学，在大学里学地质，他有个同学生病回乡，就便托这位同学带封信给他的女朋友。
我不知道为什么那信要托人带，而不是直接寄，并且要绕个大弯子，由阿文带着她去取。很多事一直也没有弄明白。阿文和女孩子显然很熟，她生得极小巧，皮肤很白，戴个大草帽坐在船头。我至今仍然能记得草帽上的一行红字，“将革命进行到底”，日晒雨露，字迹已斑驳脱落。一路上，大家都不说什么话，我觉得很闷，很无聊。终于到达要去的地方，见到了那位同学，在那吃了饭。女孩子看完信，似乎有些不太高兴，老是冷笑。
后来就是回程，先送女孩子。女孩子也是知青，是上海人，回去同样没什么话，半路上，她突然开口，冷笑说：“我们真倒霉，来时逆水，回去，又是逆水。”船在航行，坐船上的人并不太在意水的流向，经她一提醒，我才注意到水流很急，难怪我们的船慢得够呛。
阿文笑着说：“你倒什么霉，吃苦的是我，涨潮落潮全赶上了。”
我们披星戴月，很晚才到家，阿文活生生地摇了一天的橹，没有一点疲劳的样子。整整一天，他都是很兴奋，我当时有种感觉，觉得阿文是有点喜欢那女孩子，因为喜欢，所以兴奋。当然只能是喜欢，没什么别的意思，毕竟是他朋友的女友。岁月如流水，将近许多年过去了，往事不再，女孩子据说后来和一个毫不相干的人结了婚，阿文对这事闭口不谈。
关于秦淮河，民国时有人写过一本专著，叫《秦淮志》。很多事都在书上写着，真想了解秦淮河，不妨找来看一下。对于大多数人，秦淮河知道个大概就行，有时候，知道得太多，反而更糊涂。
秦淮河很长，有里秦淮外秦淮之分。往模糊里说，秦淮河是母亲河，南京的生生死死，都离开不了，它的演变代表着这个城市的发展。烟笼寒水月笼沙，夜泊秦淮近酒家，杜牧诗中“秦淮”，究竟是内秦淮还是外秦淮，自古就有争论。一般人印象中，秦淮河可以简单地看做夫子庙最热闹的那一段，桨声灯影，它最光彩又最不光彩的一页，便是“户户是花，家家是玉”。一个外地人来到南京，找一地方歇下脚，到处闲逛，只要是条河，哪怕是个小臭水沟，也会情不自禁，联想这会不会是当年李香君出没的地方，迎面过来一个美眉，会猜这难道不是金陵十二钗的后人。
历史上的南京是水陆大码头，河道交错，水巷纵横，划着小船，南来北往，东逛西走，可以去任何地方。长江下游的城市都有这特点，江南江北都一样，都是在河道上做文章。可是唯有南京，成了整个东南的重镇，想想上海今天在全国这盘棋上的重要，就不难明白南京当年在华夏版图上的威风。想当年，也就是开埠之前，上海能算什么，不就是个小渔村吗。有人开玩笑说，自从美帝国主义厉害了，大英帝国也就日薄西山，可怜南京就是衰败的大英帝国，如今只能眼睁睁看着大上海的崛起，看着人家成为东方明珠国际化大都市。
今日大上海的繁华，与秦淮河历史渊源，已很少有人去想到。都说旧上海是十里洋场，它的繁荣与洋人的租界分不开。很多人也许不知道，租界里的第一桶金，却是从南京秦淮河淌过去的。想当年，太平军一路从广西杀过来，江南的富户纷纷逃往上海租界，而此前这些有钱的阔佬，最喜欢流连的风流场所，就是销金烁银的秦淮河。长毛来了，客户们跑了，洪秀全坐地为天王，又提出了全面禁娼，这一禁，娼妓们干脆也跑了，也跑到上海去了。事实的真相就是，嫖客和娼妓携手把上海滩的经济搞活了。
曾国藩率领湘军打败太平天国，为重新繁荣深受战乱之害的南京，被后人誉为道德上的完人曾文正公，采取的最简便办法，是对秦淮河再次开禁，重新恢复六家妓院。为什么只允许恢复六家妓院，历史学家说不清道不明。所谓六家，是官家允许的挂牌执照，开门营业后，每家妓院有多少妓女，并没有硬性规定。史料记载只说明这一招十分管用，经济迅速复苏，恰如一剂强心针，几乎立竿见影。南京顿时娼盛繁荣，而上海租界也就人口骤减，工商业随之萧条，“阛阓遽为减色，掷缠头非复如前之慷慨矣”。
秦淮河是南京历史的见证，传说中六朝繁华的活标本。秦淮河全长110公里，覆盖南京的七区一县，有内秦淮外秦淮之分，我们通常说的是内秦淮，自东水关经白鹭桥文德桥，蜿蜒向西，再穿过武定桥镇淮桥，最后到达西水关，大约10里路光景。这一段水路，自古就是南京最繁华的地方。所谓繁华，就是热热闹闹，沿十里秦淮，有许多古迹名胜，譬如桃渡临流，譬如乌衣晚照，譬如长干故里，但是一般游客来到秦淮河，往往顾不上这些。对于老百姓来说，这些古老南京文化的重要象征，显得根本不重要，不就是一条有点文化含金量的河吗！
说到南京，不能不说秦淮河，说到秦淮河，不能不说夫子庙。大家感兴趣的只是夫子庙，世界古城罗马不是一天建成的，夫子庙也不是一天建成。夫子庙的中心是一座文庙，文庙并没什么了不起，在古代中国，只要是个城市，只要是个读书人的地方，要祭拜孔子他老人家，就得有文庙。南京的老文庙原来并不挨着这飘荡六朝金粉气的秦淮河，一旦搬到了秦淮河边，老百姓心目中立刻变了味道。不再叫“文庙”，也不叫“孔庙”，大大咧咧地就叫夫子庙，很严肃的称呼，到老百姓嘴里立刻世俗化了。
和夫子庙齐名的建筑群，还有学宫和江南贡院。学宫又名“泮宫”，始建于北宋，江南贡院是我国古代最大的考场，创建于南宋。夫子庙的最大特点是文化搭台，经济唱戏，它的文化是科举，经济便是吃喝玩乐。夫子庙的故事就是，就是。很显然，没有科举制度，夫子庙的很多故事都无从说起。没有了科举，就没有那份热闹。没有了科举，就没有那份悲欢离合。
随着三年一次的秋闱临近，桅杆上高悬“奉旨江南乡试”的帆船，一艘接着一艘开过来了。夫子庙的狂欢节拉开了序幕，考生来了，考官也来了，一大群蹭科举饭吃的人都跟着来了。旅馆生意立刻兴旺起来，有钱的少爷，没钱的穷秀才，都得找地方住下，都得有地方吃喝。各种档次的旅馆客栈应运而生，做生意的个个喜笑颜开，卖文房四宝的，卖古书的，卖字画的，卖杂货的，看相算命的，经营典当行的，经营成衣铺的，包括人口贩子和媒婆，都迫不及待地打起考生的主意。科举养活了一大批人，一大堆的配套服务产业，雨后春笋似的冒出来。石板小街，店招迎风，在科举的指挥棒下，夫子庙的商业气氛像春天里阳光一样灿烂。
乡试三年一次，许多考生早在一年前，已在这周围住下来。还有更长期的，干脆就是这次秋闱落第，索性秦淮河边上找个落脚的好地方，好好预习功课，准备三年后再考。三年考不上，再住三年，再考，再落第。秦淮边读书人越多，商家生意越好做。赖着不走的落第秀才越多，商家越高兴。一家挨一家的店铺老板非常高兴，比屋而居的妓院老鸨非常高兴。夫子庙一带妓家林立，是落第秀才的最好去处，红粉佳人慰藉着失落的心，让他们意志消沉，让他们醉生梦死，让他们深陷在秦淮河边的灯红酒绿中不能自拔。
天下文枢的夫子庙曾被誉为“欲界之仙都，升平之乐国”。有了这样的荣誉头衔，斯文早就扫地，文化品位也大打折扣。遥想当年，门卷珠帘，河泊画舫，秦淮河边到处都是玉软香温的旖旎风光。站在文德桥上，人约黄昏后，但见两岸河房灯火通明，粉白黛绿者出入其间，征歌选色，通宵达旦。远远的一条画舫驶了过来，雕栏画槛，绮窗丝障，美不胜收。风吹过，一阵阵的酒肉香，一阵阵的莺歌燕舞。读书人住在秦淮河边，天长日久，难免风花雪月。有才子，自然就有佳人，才子和佳人相遇，没有故事，也会生出一些故事。桃花扇底看前朝，于是有了李香君的香巢，有了柳如是和马湘兰的活动场所。
青砖小瓦马头墙，庙堂挂落花格窗，夫子庙附近的秦淮人家，千姿百态变化。值得一提的是，这里的民居特色绝对不能忽视，除了大大小小店铺，最具有秦淮文化的便是河房和画舫。河房和画舫是夫子庙最有活力的象征，是追随着秦淮河缓缓流淌的一道风景线。河房和画舫因为科举而产生，因为科举发展和壮大，却没有与科举一起灭亡。正是因为有了河房，有了画舫，科举被废除了，夫子庙依然生气勃勃，经久不衰。
古往今来，秦淮河畔的夫子庙屡遭破坏，屡毁屡建。夫子庙的不断重建，反映了南京人的一种不屈不挠，毕竟这地方是南京历史文化的最好见证。
历史上的南京，一直是江南的中心。江南曾经是个很大的概念，它的范围越来越小，现在的通常理解都是狭义。上有天堂下有苏杭，江南已成了江浙沪富庶之地的代名词，只局限在长江下游南岸这一段。其实江南可以分为东西两大块，北宋王朝的中国版图，很像一个大城市的地图说明书，它把省这级的区域称之为路，譬如长江的中下游便分成了江南西路和江南东路。历史上的大江西与今天的江西省，并不完全是一回事，但是有很重要的继承关系。与江西相对的是江东，这个江东，就是我们今天要说的江南。
南京又被称之为吴头楚尾，或许长江天堑的缘故，江南的最初碰撞，应该是东和西之间的较量，而南京的秦淮河，恰巧就是这么一个衔接点。追溯到吴王夫差和越王勾践时代，卧薪尝胆的越国胜利了，接管吴国地盘，为了与更强大的楚国对抗，把秦淮河畔的冶城扩建成越城。冶城与越城是南京城的雏形，很快，强大的楚国灭了越，越城改名为金陵邑。关于金陵二字有很多说法，最流行的是楚王觉得此地有“王者”之气，必须要改造它，于是在周围埋了一些金，以图镇住王气。到了秦始皇南巡，风水先生认定金陵的王气仍然存在，为保子孙永世为帝，秦始皇下令凿断了此地的龙脉，并改金陵为秣陵。这一改，再次体现汉字的趣味，金木水火土，金乃五行之首，太贵，秣是牲口的饲料，差不多就是最贱了。
成也王气，败也王气。金陵帝王州，秦淮佳丽地，南京的繁华不是胜利带来的，恰恰相反，它的欣欣向荣是因为失败。失败的江南有着太多不堪的记忆，只要想想南下和北伐这两个不同的词组，就知道南人和北人内心深处的强弱。南方要想打回北方去，风萧萧兮易水寒，不知道要费多大的力气，要闻鸡起舞，要卧薪尝胆，要悬梁刺股，而北方要想打过来，却如严冬的寒流一样，想杀过来，立刻势不可挡，转眼就是百万雄师过大江。
当年的项羽何等英雄，率了八千子弟渡江，所向披靡，到最后四面楚歌，仓皇别姬。历史证明，谁能在中原称雄，谁就可以控制中华。逐鹿中原的潜台词，是角逐对大一统中国的最终控制权。说到底，一个国家只能有一个中心，如果说真存在着什么黄河文化和长江文化，那么处在中心位置的，从来就是黄河流域。谁占有了中原，谁就可以君临天下，雄视江南。黄河既是我们的母亲，也是我们的爹。胜败兵家事不期，包羞忍耻是男儿，江东子弟多才俊，卷土重来未可知。事实上，在南方和北方的对峙中，南方根本就不是对手，一直处在失败的境地，企图卷土重来，多数是书生之见，不过是纸上谈兵，说着玩玩而已。
江南的偏安先天注定，生来缺钙，一点不像顶天立地的堂堂男子汉。长期以来，作为江南文化中心的秦淮河，它的常态似乎只能醉生梦死。以生存之道而言，偏安就是最大的安全，稳定才能够压倒一切。商女不知亡国恨，隔江犹唱后庭花，江南女人不仅红颜薄命，要繁荣文化振兴经济，而且是祸国殃民的祸水，要背堕落亡国的黑锅和恶名。
北极朝廷终不改，当汉族在中原地区称王的时候，秦淮河为代表的江南，只能是华夏文明的一个副中心，负责收税纳贡搞活经济，往北方源源不断输送黄金白银。除了经济的繁荣之外，北方不太能够容忍江南的过分强大。换句话说，江南可以拥有经济地位，但是不能拥有政治地位。当汉族在中原地区受挫，黄河流域遭到了异族入侵，随着北方士族的纷纷南逃，华夏文化的中心才会被动地移到江南。这时候，以秦淮河为代表的江南，就有可能一跃为汉文化的中心，成为了维护中华文明的最后堡垒。南京历史上最能引以为自豪的黄金时代，是六朝时期，为什么，因为恰恰是在这个时期，中原汉文化的基地转移到南京来了。
说到底，秦淮河边发生的故事，是了解中国大历史的最好教材。江南并不是天生软弱，秦淮河也不是自古堕落，它的各种毛病，从某种意义上来说，都还是失败的北方带来的。西晋东迁，北宋南渡，这不是江南的过错，账都不应该算在江南人头上。东迁和南渡带来了很多问题，桃花扇底看南朝，秦淮河上的灯红酒绿，从来就不仅仅属于江南。秦淮河只不过是宽宏大量地接受了中原王朝的失败，无可奈何地囤积了耻辱。多少年来，失败和耻辱的阴影始终笼罩着秦淮河，这里是出后主的地方，是亡国之都的代名词。秦淮河水源源不断，奔流不息，透露着江南文化中的一缕缕重要气息，说不完的柔情和感伤，道不尽的颓败和绝望。1945年抗战胜利，一批国民党元老力主国民政府迁都北京，理由就是这里的亡国气息太重，太腐败太堕落，虽然是被先总理孙中山看中了，可是它实在不适合作为一国之都的所在地。
历史选择向来有它的合理性，事实上，在江南的大版块上，秦淮河的老大地位越来越不重要，早就是明日黄花。如今江南盟主是不可一世的大上海，在很多年轻的上海人眼里，以拥有秦淮河为荣的老南京，还能不能属于江南，都已经有些可疑了。
南京的魅力指数是什么，这是一小学同学提出来的。当时正在聚会，多年不见，一个个酒意正浓，都被这提问镇住，不知道如何回答。小学同学常年生活在欧洲，洋味十足，大家于是玩客气，说不识庐山真面目，只缘身在此山中，我们眼拙，吃喝拉撒睡局限南京，家门口的事熟视无睹，好像看不见自己老婆的好一样，还是听听你的高见。
小学同学就说，南京的魅力指数，就看一条秦淮河。
大家都笑，觉得他说是说了，跟没说一样。
小学同学皱着眉头，说前些年我从欧洲回来，秦淮河臭不可闻，感觉实在不好。美丽的秦淮河一臭，就像女人过了更年期，立马不可爱。在座的几位女士，正处于更年期前夕，脸色顿时不好看。小学同学连忙改口，说不对不对，说错了，应该说秦淮河臭了，就像好女人被坏