Chapter 67 Chapter 66 Wanquan River: Wuzhi Mountain at one end and Boao Port at the other end
Wanquan River, originating from Wuzhishan Mountains, flows through Qiongzhong, Wanning, Tunchang, Qionghai and other cities and counties, and flows into the South China Sea from Boao Port. It has a total length of 163 kilometers, a drainage area of 3683 square kilometers, and a population of 557,300. Accounting for about 7% of the population of Hainan Province, it is the third largest river in Hainan, the largest river is the Nandu River, and the second largest river is the Changhua River.Nandu River originates from Yinggeling Mountains, flows through Baisha, Danzhou, Chengmai, Tunchang, Ding'an, Haikou and other cities and counties, and flows into Qiongzhou Strait from the middle and both sides of Haidian Island and Xinbu Island with a total length of 333.8 km, with a drainage area of 7,033 square kilometers and a population of 2.256 million, accounting for about 30% of the population of Hainan Province.In terms of length and flow, Wanquan River is less than half of Nandu River, but in terms of popularity and appeal, Nandu River is far inferior to Wanquan River.
In the 1970s, the song "I Love Wuzhishan, I Love Wanquanhe" made Hainan famous. Many people knew Wuzhishan and Wanquanhe through this song.Watching the ballet "The Red Detachment of Women" and listening to "Water in the Wanquan River, clear and pure..." Who wouldn't want to be there and prove that it is not an illusory world.
Hainan Island is the main body of Hainan Province, and Wuzhi Mountain and Wanquan River are the symbols of Hainan.Today, Boao, where the Wanquan River empties into the sea, has become the permanent venue of the Asia Forum, and the name of Wanquan River has frequently appeared in various media, and has entered the eyes of people in Asia and even the world.Here is the confluence of three rivers, with sea water, beaches, islands and forest belts. It is the most perfect natural ecological preservation of the river estuary in the world.
Wanquan River forms its initial water flow in the virgin forest of Wuzhi Mountain, and runs from west to east until it ends its passionate flow at Boao Port.On both sides of its upstream, there are undulating mountains, verdant vegetation, narrow valleys, and fast-flowing water; on both sides of its downstream, coconut groves and banana gardens stretch as far as the eye can see, with an open river surface and surging waves; it has become the only provincial-level scenic spot in Hainan Island with rivers as its main scenery.When we turned our attention to the Wanquan River again, there were coaches parked on the shore of the estuary, some people were paddling in the middle, and there were explorers in the upper reaches.Arriving at this place, a view gradually formed: while the Wanquan River is performing the functions of irrigation and water supply, people are more concerned about how to restore it to nature, tap its aesthetic and leisure value, and give people aesthetic enjoyment and pleasure.
Wanquanhe, what an aura and beautiful name.How did it get its name?The tour guide told such a legend: In ancient times, ten suns appeared in the sky, the earth was dry and cracked, the vegetation died, and people and animals were extremely thirsty.Just at this time, Nuwa came to Hainan, stretched out her hand to point to the mountain valley, a spring gushed out, and the people rushed to drink the water first.They thought, the river is so big, maybe there are ten thousand springs upstream?Wanquan River got its name from this.This answer may seem absurd to modern people, but it reflects the thinking and interpretation of the universe and natural forces by the early people of Hainan.
I checked the information and found that Wanquan River was originally called "Duoshui River", and it was the twelfth emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, Yuan Wenzong Tutiemuer, who changed its name to "Wanquan River". "Yuan Shi" and Ming "Zhengde Qiongtai Zhi" records that in the first year of Zhizhi [1321], Yuan Wuzong's second son, Tutie Muer, was exiled to Qiongzhou by Yingzong [reigned from 1321-1323] due to internal disputes in the court. The mansion is just south of Qiongzhou City [now Fucheng], where I happened to meet Qingmei, the maid of Marshal Chen Qian's family.Qingmei was born in a famous family, because her father was slandered by treacherous officials, her family was ruined, and she was reduced to slavery.But she is good at singing and dancing, and she has both voice and color, which makes Tutiemuer fall in love with her.From Qingmei's point of view, Tutie Mu Ergui is the crown prince, how dare he climb high?Tutiemuer was depressed, so he went on a tour and came to Ding'an Nanlei Cave.The prince of Nanlei Cave not only "acts with courtesy", but is also willing to grow old in that month, "paying 300 gold for him to hire green plums", which made a good marriage story.The Qiongju opera "The Story of Green Plum" interprets this historical story.
Three years after Tutiemuer was exiled in Qiongzhou, Yan Timur, a member of the Privy Council, launched a coup, supported Tutiemuer as emperor, and changed the Yuan calendar.In the second year of Tianli [1329], Yuan Wenzong Tutiemuer [reigned from 1328 to 1332], who had just ascended the throne, ordered to build the Puming Temple in the place where he buried his residence, and upgrade Ding'an County to Nanjian Prefecture. Feng Nanleidong master is hereditary magistrate, "wearing gold talisman, leading the army and the people".Qing Guangxu's "Ding'an County Chronicles" recorded this matter according to "Wang's Genealogy".Although the source of the name change to "Duoshuihe" has not been found, it cannot be denied that it happened. "Song and Yuan Poetry Association" records: Wen Zong's Yiqing Cihan, Yaxi Denglin.It is very possible to change the name of a river, and to change it so poetically.
When drinking water, people will ask where is the source of Wanquan River?According to common sense, we know that the rivers in Hainan Island are valley-type rivers, and the runoff comes from rainfall. Countless raindrops fall on the slopes, and then converge into streams, forming the original flow of the river.The large runoff of a river is due to the large area of its water source area and water conservation forest.
To determine the source, in fact, the main stream should be determined. Once the main stream is determined, the source can be determined by going upstream.I'm not a professional, and I don't have the conditions to explore the source of the river.As far as I know, the upper reaches of the Wanquan River are divided into north and south branches. The south branch is dominated by the Chengpo River, originating from Nanling in Linbei Village, Wuzhi Mountain; the north branch is dominated by the Dabian River, originating from the southeast of Limu Mountain. Fengmenling: Two branches flow through Qiongzhong, Wanning, Tunchang to Qionghai Longjiang Hekou Tsui to join.But where is the main source?For a long time no one made it clear.Fengmenling and Limu Mountain both belong to the Wuzhishan Mountains. There are virgin forests, cliffs, and gurgling water. When you enter the no-man's land, you can only hear birds and animals... Even if you bring a GPS and a map, you may get lost.The source of valley-type rivers is inherently difficult to determine, or can not be determined.Going up along the tributaries, springs are dotted all over, no matter on the slope or in the crevices of rocks, there are springs gushing out, unlike snow-capped mountains, glaciers or swamps, where to find the "first drop of water"?It is also impossible to have a specific sign like the source of the Yangtze River and the Yellow River.
On August 23, 2002, 32 members of the Hainan Provincial Explorers Association went to Limu Mountain in Qiongzhong County to find the source of the Wanquan River.It was dusk when they entered Limu Mountain, and their camp was set up on a flat ground at the forestry station halfway up the mountain.As night fell, a few thick clouds floated behind the mountains, and after some rain, they left. The frogs around the camp were screaming non-stop. On the morning of the 24th, they set out again.The wet mountain made climbing more difficult, and everyone was careful, and only dared to climb up when they stepped on their feet firmly.It took about 40 minutes to pass the "Xiamawei". The road after that was even more rugged. The ditch formed by the rain for many years was so narrow that only one person could pass through it. In many cases, it was almost like walking on the edge of a cliff.
When we reached the "Shenfu Stone", there was no land to go. There were two rivers ahead, the left one led to the second peak of Limu Mountain, and the right one led to the main peak of Limu Mountain.After research, they decided to go up from the stream on the left. If they stepped on the bottom of the water, they would slip and fall if they were not careful. They also had to beware of water snakes and mountain leeches.
At noon, 24 team members came to the plowshare between the main peak and the second peak of Limu Mountain. There was a huge boulder about 20 meters high standing on the mountain. The spring water burst out from the gap at the top of the boulder and flowed down gently along the boulder. A waterfall more than ten meters high is formed.At this time, the location of their station was surveyed and compared, and it was 1,380 meters above sea level, 31 meters away from the main peak of Limu Mountain, which is 1,411 meters above sea level.Fu Zhen, an expert from the Hainan Provincial Bureau of Surveying and Mapping, determined that this is the main source of the Wanquan River.As far as I know, the determination of the source of the Wanquan River this time is not of decisive significance, but only laid the groundwork for the subsequent dispute over the source of the river.
The source is directly related to the length of the river, and the source of the river must meet the conditions of water throughout the year.From July to October every year is the typhoon season in Hainan, and it is also the rain season. In the dry season in winter, can the huge rock at the plowshare of the second peak of Limu Mountain still have a waterfall more than ten meters high?Hainan is a place with the most tropical marine climate characteristics in my country. It is warm and hot throughout the year, with abundant rainfall and obvious dry and wet seasons. It is dry in winter and spring, and rainy in summer and autumn. The dry season lasts for 6 to 7 months, and the total rainfall in the rainy season accounts for the annual rainfall. 70% to 90% of that.
The so-called source must be determined from the main stream, and only the longer and larger flow can be called the main stream.The Chengpo River originating from Nanling, Linbei Village, Wuzhi Mountain is 109 kilometers long, with a catchment area of 1,387 square kilometers. The Po River is the main stream, and the source of the Wanquan River can only be found upstream from the Chengpo River.
Due to the complexity and changeability of nature, the river does not have a definite "point" of departure. It is an area, a place called the source area.Explorers and scientists use GPS to measure the longitude and latitude of the sources of the Yellow River, Yangtze River, and Lancang River they found, and then mark them on the map, but they cannot be marked on the ground. Even if they are marked, they are symbolic and not necessarily related to The facts match.The source is not a "point" but an area, so it does not need to be treated precisely, but only poetically.I very much hope that the controversy over the source of the river will continue, perhaps in this way more people will pay attention to the protection of the source.
The source area of Wanquan River is in Qiongzhong County, which is a typical central city and county and minority autonomous county in Hainan.The annual average sunshine time is 1600 to 2000 hours, the annual average temperature is 22 ℃, and the annual average precipitation is 2200 to 2444 mm.Surrounded by mountains, there are 52 peaks above 1,000 meters above sea level.Wuzhi Mountain is 1,811.6 meters above sea level and is the highest peak on the island; Limu Mountain is 1,411 meters above sea level and is the main branch of Wuzhi Mountain; tropical rain forests are preserved in both of them, and they are rich in biodiversity resources.There are 241 large and small rivers, the river network density coefficient is 1.32 kilometers per square kilometer, the total rain collection area is 2693.1 square kilometers, and the average runoff is 4.433 billion cubic meters.The hydropower reserves are about 108,300 kilowatts, and 22,200 kilowatts have been developed and utilized.
Wuzhishan is located at the junction of the southwestern part of Qiongzhong County and Tongshi City [now Wuzhishan City], 54 kilometers away from the urban area. Ten years ago, there was only a fourth-grade dirt road entering Wuzhishan Township [now Shuiman Township]. One day in May, when my classmates and I drove up there, it was already past 9:00 in the morning, and the peak of Wuzhi Mountain was still covered by dark clouds and thick fog, as if we were communicating with the sky, saying something that no one could understand .There is a small stream behind the village, and vines extend from the stream to several trees on the mountain.As we walked, the path along the stream suddenly disappeared. This is the confluence of two streams. The flowing water washes over the stones and splashes countless splashes. The fish did not show up again, as if they were guarding the secret of the stream and its source.
After wading through the water, there is a road up the mountain. Gradually, we can smell a unique resinous fragrance from the air. From this, we realize that we have entered the virgin forest.The fallen leaves in the forest are three to five centimeters thick, and there are many tree species. The trees that I can name are chicken feather pine, Lujun pine and spinosa.The hanging garden is the first time I saw it. At the place where the two trunks of the big banyan tree cross, there are many small bird's nest ferns parasitic.
The big trees there generally have buttresses, which is said to be one of the most prominent features of the tropical rainforest.Tropical rainforests are rainy and humid, and there is a lot of water on the surface of the soil. Trees can absorb important nutrients without having to penetrate deep into the soil, so they extend their bases to form plank roots.The classmate who accompanied me up the mountain is a local. He wrote many poems praising Wuzhi Mountain when he was studying, and he is very familiar with the environment here.He said that the straight-line distance of this forest is about 15 kilometers, but the actual distance is more than 100 kilometers, and it will take six or seven days to cross it.His meaning was very clear, and he asked me to turn back and not go any further.Although it is a bit regrettable, I have been to Wuzhishan after all.
In order to visit the source area of Wanquan River, I came to Hainan in early November 2009.Although there are also "Lidong" and "Little Snow" on the calendar there, the surrounding temperature is no different from that in spring.On the morning of the second day in Hainan, I took a friend's van from Haikou to Limu Mountain.I met these few friends when Hainan was established as a province. They are some of the members of the "one hundred thousand talents crossing the Strait".While I became a native of other provinces, they became the new masters of Hainan.The car drove from the "national highway" to the "county road", and then turned to the "country road". Everyone talked and laughed loudly along the way, and even sang songs one after another, all of which were old songs.
Around 10 o'clock, we came to Limushan National Forest Park.The mountains here are undulating, and the flowing water is gurgling. It is not like seeing each other for the first time, but like meeting again.Limu Mountain was called Liwu Mountain in ancient times. More than 900 years ago, Su Shi, a great writer in the Song Dynasty, wrote a poem titled "Timing Liwu Mountain".Limu Mountain is the ancestral mountain of the Li nationality compatriots.The Qiongya column led by Feng Baiju "the red flag will not fall for 23 years" relied on Limu Mountain to establish the Wuzhishan Revolutionary Base and carry out guerrilla warfare to welcome the liberation of Hainan.
Ascending to an altitude of about 400 meters, a river dam protruded out of the sky, which was named "Little Three Gorges". Although there was a long drought and no rain, the river was full of water. The guide could not tell the name of the river, but only said it was Wanquan River One of the sources of the river, the upper tributaries pass through the cliffs, often forming waterfalls.300 meters further up from the "Little Three Gorges", there is a Twin Waterfall.The flowing water falls from a high place to a platform, makes a slight turn, and then continues to rush down the cliff, forming two sections that seem to be connected but broken.According to the guide, the most famous waterfall in Limu Mountain is Chandengling Waterfall, which is at the bottom of the valley on the west side of the main peak of Limu Mountain. It is too far to go.We continued to walk along the river, and soon we saw a forest of C. spinosa, which is different from that in Wuzhishan, in that the C. spinosa here obviously has the characteristics of an altitude band distribution.Its appearance is no different from that of ferns. The new branches have fewer leaves and more hairs, and the top is coiled into a spiral shape, which is rich in water.
The trees here are very tall but very thin, because the tropical plants here grow luxuriantly, and each tree is desperately elongated to compete for sunlight. Small trees that are almost as thick as a thumb can grow to 10 meters or even 20 meters.Tall trees are generally 30 to 40 meters high, even 50 to 60 meters high, and the crowns are very luxuriant.It is said that these trees lose their leaves not in autumn and winter, but in spring.The leaves fall not because of the cold weather, but because of the growth of all things in spring, new leaves must grow, and old leaves have to give way.Therefore, the yellow leaves just fell from the tree today, and new green will grow on the tree tomorrow.The mountain road is getting more and more difficult, which makes me feel better and better, which means that this tropical rainforest still maintains its original taste.
The tropics are the place where ancient species originated and gathered, showing the exuberant vitality of nature, and often presenting a warm and primitive scene.I walked into the tropical rainforest of Hainan with this tropical fantasy.Everything here is very beautiful and colorful.The tropical rainforest in Hainan has attracted attention again. In November 2002, the scientific expedition team discovered a virgin tropical rainforest that is rare in my country in Yinggeling.
Yinggeling is the second largest mountain range in Hainan. It runs from northeast to southwest. The main peak faces Wuzhi Mountain across the [Changhua River]. It has a great impact on Hainan's climate. After the second blocking and uplift of the Yinggeling Mountains, it brought a lot of precipitation to the whole island, which made the southeast slope rich in rain and the northwest slope decreased, resulting in uneven distribution of precipitation. important watershed.Every year, the northeast and northwest cold currents invade the island. After being blocked by the Yinggeling Mountains, they move southward along the east-west direction, weakening the disastrous impact of the cold current on the southwestern, southern and southeastern regions of Hainan Island.Once the forest vegetation in the Yinggeling area is destroyed, it will fundamentally affect the overall climate of Hainan.
Yingge Ridge is located at the junction of the four cities and counties of Baisha, Wuzhishan, Ledong and Qiongzhong, and nearly half of its area is in Baisha County.
On July 12, 1943, after the failure of the "Baisha Uprising" led by Li Nationality leaders Wang Guoxing and Wang Yujin, they led the uprising team to withdraw to Yinggeling, which is high in mountains and densely forested.Due to the blockade of the Kuomintang, the contact with Shanxia was cut off, and he soon fell into despair.Wang Guoxing sent people down the mountain to find the Qiongya column, and was able to break out of the siege.The Qiongya Special Committee of the Communist Party of China established a Limin Work Committee to guide the Li and Miao people to carry out armed struggles, and established the Baibaole [Baisha, Baoting, Ledong] People’s Liberation Group. Wang Guoxing was the head of the group and returned to Wuzhishan to establish a revolutionary The base area guaranteed the victory of the Hainan Liberation War.
Wang Guoxing, formerly known as Wang Xing, was born in Fanxiang Village, Hongmaodong, Baisha County [now Qiongzhong County]. His ancestors were appointed as the "manager" of Lidong by the Qing government. His father was a hereditary cave leader. The mayor of Mao Township.Chairman Mao Zedong's evaluation of Wang Guoxing was: "China's ethnic minorities revolted, took the initiative to seek the Communist Party, eliminated the Kuomintang, and established a revolutionary base. Only Wang Guoxing was there."
More than half a century has passed, due to high mountains and steep slopes, traffic congestion, and sparsely populated, most of Yinggeling has never been developed and utilized on a large scale, and still maintains its original appearance. In 1997, the Hainan Terrestrial Wildlife Resources Survey Team went to Gaofeng Village, Nankai Township, Baisha County to investigate. They heard that there was a virgin forest in Yingge Ridge, but they failed to enter the virgin forest. In November 2002, the comprehensive investigation team of Hainan Nature Reserve entered Maoring and other areas, and confirmed for the first time that there are stretches of primitive tropical rainforest in Yinggeling. In March 2003, the Forestry Bureau of Hainan Province and the Hong Kong Kadoorie South China Biodiversity Research Team jointly conducted a resource survey in the Yinggeling area with scientific research institutes and universities inside and outside the province. data. In May 2003, Xinhua News Agency published an internal reference titled "Primitive Forest Discovered in Hainan". In May 2004, more than 50 experts and scholars at home and abroad jointly submitted the "Proposal on Establishing Hainan Yinggeling Provincial Nature Reserve" to the Hainan Provincial Government. In July 2004, the Hainan Provincial Government approved the establishment of Yinggeling Provincial Nature Reserve.
The Yinggeling tropical rainforest covers an area of more than 250 square kilometers and is the largest and contiguous primitive tropical rainforest in my country. In 2005, Jianfengling was rated as one of the "Top Ten Most Beautiful Forests in China" by China National Geographic. Its tropical rainforest area is only 150 square kilometers. The tropical rainforests of Wuzhi Mountain, Limu Mountain, Bawangling Mountain and Diaoluo Mountain area is smaller.A new species of moth and 3 new records in Hainan were discovered in the first resource survey of Yinggeling.The three new records in Hainan belong to Carex and Pyrophyllum, of which there are two new records from Pythyphyllum genus.There is a kind of coarse-leaved wood, which was only found in Yunnan in China before, but now it is found in Yinggeling, which shows the unique role of Yinggeling in Hainan's biological resources.
The greater achievement of this resource survey is that it has cultivated a team of talents in the reserve that will never leave for Hainan. Before the Yinggeling investigation team arrived in 1997, the staff of various protected areas in Hainan formed a sharp knife team to enter Yinggeling and select representative spots to facilitate the survey team to get in touch with the unique characteristics of Yinggeling to the greatest extent within a limited time. wildlife.These workers at the forefront of conservation work have increased their sense of responsibility and concern for wildlife resources, which will have the most direct effect on the protection of ecological resources in Hainan.
Tropical rainforest is the ecosystem with the richest biodiversity on earth. The discovery of Yinggeling pristine tropical rainforest is especially precious to my country, where tropical rainforest only accounts for 1.7% of the country's land area.
Yinggeling has the most typical tropical rainforest climate characteristics in Hainan, and it is an area with relatively large annual rainfall in Hainan.There are many rivers and streams converging in one place, which dominates the water system form of Hainan Island. It is the birthplace and water conservation area of the first and second largest rivers in Hainan - the Nandu River and the Changhua River.The Changhua River originates from the Kongshi Ridge of Wuzhi Mountain, and Yinggeling is also one of its origins. The Shilu River originating from Futouling, a branch of Yinggeling, is a tributary of the Changhua River.Most of the Changhua River flows in the original tropical rainforest, and there are no big cities and towns along the river. The downstream is the boundary river between Dongfang City and Changjiang County. The south is under the jurisdiction of Dongfang City, and the north is under the jurisdiction of Changjiang County. It flows into Beibu Gulf through Changhua Port in Changjiang County.The total length is 231.6 square kilometers, the catchment area is 5150.4 square kilometers, the annual average runoff is 4.17 billion cubic meters, and the population of the basin is 1.3127 million.In the Sui Dynasty, the county seat of Changhua was on the north side of the current estuary, hence the name Changhua River.
The main stream of Changhua River is upstream above Panyang, 79 kilometers long; the middle reaches from Panyang to Chahe is 84 kilometers long; the downstream below Chahe is 39 kilometers long.The upper and middle reaches of the main stream have steep slopes and rapid floods. The ground on both sides of the river is generally 20 to 30 meters above the river bed, and there are no large depressions and residential areas.
There are many tributaries of the Changhua River. The larger tributaries in the basin include Nanman River, Tongshi River, Lezhong River, Da'an River, Nanba River and Dongfang Water on the left bank, and Nanrao River, Qicha River and Shilu River on the right bank.There are 10 tributaries with a catchment area greater than 100 square kilometers in the basin, among which the Tongshi River has the largest catchment area, followed by the Shilu River with catchment areas of 660 square kilometers and 546 square kilometers respectively, and the others are all less than 400 square kilometers .
Hainan's largest water source area for crossing the Henan River is located in the hinterland of Yinggeling. The specific locations are Qingsong Township, Nankai Township, Yuanmen Township and Xishui Township in Baisha County.Baisha County is hot and rainy, and the temperature difference between day and night ranks first in the whole island.The annual sunshine is more than 2055 hours, the annual average temperature is 21.9 to 23.4 ℃, the annual average rainfall is 1725 mm, and the mountainous climate features prominently.There are 440 large and small mountains in the territory, and the main peak of Yinggeling is 1811.6 meters above sea level, which is the second highest peak in Hainan.There are 30 large and small rivers in the county, among which Nankai River, Shilu River and Zhubi River are the three major rivers flowing through the territory.
Nancha River, Nanmei River, Nanchuan River, Nankai River, Nanshi River, Nanwan River and other rivers flow into Songtao Reservoir directly, or flow into Songtao Reservoir after merging into Nankai River, accumulating initial strength for the journey of crossing the river to the sea.The names of these rivers all have the word "South". At first, I thought it was related to the orientation. After talking with the local guide, I learned that in Li dialect, "South" means water and river.The guide also told me that Nankai River was originally called Nanxi River. In Li dialect, "kai" and "xi" are homophones. For the convenience of writing, Nanxi River was written as Nankai River.The township was named after the river, and Nanxi was changed to Nankai Township accordingly.
Nankai Township is a mountainous township inhabited by compatriots of the Li nationality. There are 5 village committees and 27 natural villages, including 26 villages of the Li nationality and one village of the Miao nationality.Gaofeng Village is the most remote village in Nankai Township and the highest village in Baisha County.This village is located in the hinterland of Yinggeling—on the hillside of Nanfeng Mountain, the closest to the source of Nandu River.There are five villager groups in Gaofeng Village, namely Fang Tong, Fang Hong, Fang Lao, Po Gao, and Dao Yin. They are very scattered, with Fang Tong as the center, and several village groups are 20 minutes to two hours away from each other.
I have been to Tongtong, where the village committee is located. There is a brick building in the village, Gaofeng Elementary School. There are 6 classrooms in a bungalow, which is said to be newly built in 2007.Several teachers graduated here from the normal school, and they almost never went down the mountain.A retired old principal has not been to the county seat for decades.Donkey friends who come to explore the peak live in this row of classrooms at night, or live in tents built by themselves on the playground.
The peak is 60 kilometers away from the county seat. The road is a dirt road with a steep slope and many curves. It takes more than 4 hours to ride in a bumpy car.During the rainy season, the road surface is so muddy that it is impossible to walk at all. You can only walk after waiting for about a month until the soil freezes hard.This mountain road was built in 2002. The first time the villagers saw a car, it was the county education bureau that helped the poor pull a truckload of piglets into the village.It was 2006 when Gaofeng Village was electrified. Before the electrification, many villagers bought crude small generators with turbines, put them in the Nankai River, connected the wires, and provided limited lighting. The villagers called this "water bottle electricity". ".But it is very abnormal. When the water is high in summer, the voltage is high and cannot be controlled. It often burns out the lamps and TVs.And in the dry season, the voltage is not enough, the lights are dim, and the TV cannot be turned on.
The peak is very quiet, surrounded by trees, the Nankai River flows around the village, the river bed is full of rocks, and the river water is clear and transparent.I went to the river to wash my face, and the water was freezing cold in early November.Seeing a group of fish swimming around, I dare not reach out to catch them. This is a no-fishing zone, and the villagers established it in the form of township regulations.Among the 106 freshwater fish species recorded in Hainan, 48 species have been found in the Nankai River section alone, and the freshwater fish species resources account for nearly 50% of the province's total.In the past, villagers poisoned and fried fish and overfished, which caused great damage to the fish resources here. It is difficult to see a fish as big as a palm in the tens of kilometers of river.The scientific and technological personnel of Yinggeling Nature Reserve have been going to the village for a long time to do publicity, which has achieved results. The Daoyin Village Group took the lead in establishing a no-fishing zone.
The villagers do not want to mention the past of logging, hunting, and fishing. In order to protect the water source of Nandu River, they now make a living by farming, growing rice, orchids, bamboo, southern medicine, and red and white vines, as well as raising pigs and cattle. .The cattle are mainly yellow cattle, which are marked on their bodies and rushed to the nearby mountains; the pigs have to be fed with some feed every day, and more often they are allowed to wander around the village to look for food. foot pig".
The source of the Nankai River is also the source of the Nandu River, because the Nankai River is the main stream of the Nandu River, and it has the longest length and the largest water volume among the upstream rivers.Where is its source?Teacher Fu Mingneng of Gaofeng Elementary School told me that at the height of Nanfeng Mountain, there is still 40 kilometers away from Gaofeng Village, and there is no way to go.The possibility of going up is extremely small, and I can only imagine what the source of this river is like: a small stream flows out along a ravine, sometimes rushing and sometimes whispering.It had carved out a bed for itself, overgrown with weeds which made the brook almost invisible, and that overgrown place was the source of the great river.
The Gaofeng villagers could have chosen to live down the mountain, but they chose to stay deep in the mountain. Why?According to "Baisha County Chronicles", in October 1971, more than 540 people from Gaofeng Village moved to Rongbang Township, but after December 1980, most of the villagers moved back to Gaofeng, with a total of about 460 people.The main reason is that the area of paddy fields in Rongbang Township is small, and there is not enough water for production and living, which makes it difficult for Gaofeng villagers to adapt.This was an unsuccessful relocation experience in Gaofeng Village, which made me realize what a river means to the local Li people.It is the expression of the integrity of the earth, the dignity and beauty of life, and the long-standing past and future.
The depth, broadness and extraordinary momentum of the big river are conceived by the tributaries in the upper reaches.There are 9 upstream tributaries of the Wanquan River, and the largest primary tributary is the Dabian River.In Qiongzhong County, Dabian River operates townships such as Gengen, Zhongping, and Wanling.There are many mountains in Zhongping Town, and there are 11 mountains above 500 meters above sea level, among which Baima Ridge is 1264 meters above sea level and Nanmao Ridge is 1270 meters above sea level.The mountains are steep and dangerous, the rivers are intertwined, and the flat land or terraces between the deep mountains and valleys are called "pings". Miao villages are built on large and small flats. The "Miao King" Chen Riguang is from Zhongping. There is a Christian church in Miao Village. Many Miao people believe in Christianity and have a direct relationship with Chen Riguang.
According to the book "Hainan Miao Nationality", Chen Riguang is kind-hearted, hard-working, frugal in life, not addicted to tobacco and alcohol, tall in stature, superhuman in physical strength, eloquent and eloquent, and has a wide range of contacts, so he is deeply loved and supported by the Miao people in Hainan . At the beginning of the 20th century, he served as the general manager of the six caves including Zhongping, Nanmao, and Calvary, and became the most popular and influential "Miao King".He was injured by a bear while hunting. He went to Jiaji Christian Gospel Hospital in Qiongdong County [now Qionghai City] for treatment, and accepted Christianity in the hospital.Under his influence, more and more people believed in Christianity among the Miao people. By 1919, churches had been built in 12 Miao villages. In 1922, Chen Riguang moved his family to Xin'an, Diaoluo Mountain, and built the "Miaowang Village" and the Christian Church.
The Dabian River flows eastward through Wanling Town, and the river level has slowed down a lot. On March 31, 2009, the feature film "Teachers Wang Wenzhou and Wang Shengchao in Qiongzhong County, Hainan, Carrying Students Across the River to School in 33 Years" broadcasted by Phoenix Satellite TV's "A Date with Luyu" was about two teachers and one of Dabianhe. agreement.Dadun Primary School in Wanling Town, more than 30 kilometers away from Qiongzhong County, is surrounded by the Dabian River. There is no bridge on the river. Students living on the south bank have to wade across the river four times a day to go to school on the north bank. September 1, 1976 was the first day of the new semester, and it was also the first day when Wang Wenzhou, a young Li nationality, became a private teacher in Dadun Primary School.He found that three students from Gaotian Village and Gaowan Village on the opposite bank did not come to report. At noon, he waded through the waist-high river and went to the students' homes to ask why.The parents had only one reason: "We want our children to go to school too, but it's not safe to cross the river." After pondering for a moment, Wang Wenzhou said straightforwardly, "Well, I'll take them to school." From that day on, Wang Wenzhou spent half his life alone time to fulfill a promise. In 1984, Wang Chaosheng, who is also a private teacher and a young Li nationality, joined in to fulfill the promise of Teacher Wen Zhou.
From September to October every year, it is the heavy rain season in the Limu Mountains. The water in the Dabian River soars, overflowing the noses and eyes of the two teachers, and even the top of their heads is invisible. Only two pairs of big hands are holding the two children to the opposite bank with difficulty. move.When the river water rose to more than 10 meters, they used wooden basins, bamboo rafts, and tires to let the students lie on them and push them across the river.Winter is the time when the water of Dabian River is the shallowest, but the water temperature is several degrees Celsius, and it is cold to step on, not to mention that the bottom of the river is full of stones, so the two teachers had to continue to carry their students across the river to school. At the end of February, the river was only knee-deep, and the two teachers still carried those small students across the river.One was 33 years and the other was 25 years. How many times these two teachers have crossed the Dabian River, they themselves can’t remember.Let’s count it according to the rainy season. There are only 45 days in a year, and there are 4 round trips a day, and 10 students are sent each time, and then multiplied by 33 years and 25 years respectively.The number multiplied more than 100,000 times.It is gratifying that the two teachers have experienced countless dangerous situations in the river, and there has never been an accident.
Dabianhe is Wang Shengchao's matchmaker. Twenty-two years ago, a young woman named Chen Haixia went to Gaotian Village to visit friends. When she was returning home, she was stopped by the sudden swell of the river, and she burst into tears by the river.Wang Shengchao, who was carrying students across the river, saw her and carried her across the river without saying a word.Two years later, Chen Haixia became his wife.Wang Shengchao is full of affection for Dabianhe. He said: "When I first became a private teacher, my salary was only more than 10 yuan, and there was no oil in my stomach. I went down the river to touch snails and catch fish. Half an hour later, it was enough for the whole family to eat. One meal." Even today, when he has been converted into a public teacher and became the principal, he still relies on the Dabian River to improve his life.Wang Wenzhou talked about the thing that made him most happy: the annual enrollment rate of Dadun Primary School has reached 99.8%, and 4 college students have been graduated so far.After the deeds of the two teachers spread, all Hainanese were moved.With the help of relevant leaders, the bridge from Dadun Primary School to the other side has already started.
The Chengpo River descends from Wuzhi Mountain, passing through Shang'an Township and Changzheng Township in Qiongzhong County, and walked nearly 50 kilometers of mountain roads. When it arrived at Nanmaoling Valley in Heping Township, it changed its direction of eastward flow and turned a nearly 90-degree turn northward. When the river bends, the drop increases several meters, and the rushing river makes a loud "rumbling" noise. Standing by the river to talk, you have to "roar" loudly, otherwise you can't hear what others are saying.The underwater situation is complicated. Various stones and stone mortars are scattered on a riverbed about 1,000 meters long and 300 meters wide. This is the famous Qibu water stone mortar group.
According to legend, a long time ago, this place was called Longniu Bay, and the river was more than ten feet deep. A buffalo often went ashore to fight with other buffaloes.Some of the stones in the river are like cows, some are like horses, some are like tigers, and some are like turtles... What they look like depends entirely on your imagination.Due to the construction of reservoirs downstream, it is difficult to see this landscape except during the dry season.In the past two years of drought, the water level of the river has dropped. From time to time in the rainy season, strange stones and mortars can also be seen.The stone mortar troughs are up to 10 meters long, forming small "ditches" on the river bed; the circular ones are between 20 cm and 2 meters in diameter, like round plates or large dustpans; It is deep enough to store water, like a big "water tank", some of which penetrate through the bottom, and the waves float from below...
It is famous for its many beaches and rapids.According to "Qiongzhong County Chronicle", one day in September 1950, the upper reaches of the Chengpo River were flooded by heavy rain, and the river swelled suddenly at night, washing away more than 20 villagers and primary school students in Shijie, Shunzuo, Lintian, and Qiduai, and drowned 9 livestock. On May 29, 1971, the Chengpo River rose by 5.4 meters, damaging 621 acres of crops, washing away 3 to 8 tons of seedlings, destroying a small boat, destroying 6 houses, drowning two cows and one pig.
On the east bank of the river, there is a farm with tile-roofed houses forming a square, with a large courtyard in the middle. Under two tall longan trees, there is an abandoned boat upside down.Near noon, many people from the farm were gathering and chatting there.Facing our arrival, they were somewhat pleasantly surprised.During the conversation, we learned that this is the Heping Town Farm, which was founded in 1960 and covers an area of 550 mu. Fishing, now there are fewer fish, no more fishing.
An old man named Wu Daxi recalled that before 1982, there were a lot of river turtles, river eels, catfish, carp and dace, and they could be caught by the river. When people waded across the river, some fish unexpectedly Dare to swim over and peck people. 1982年，下游的牛路岭水库蓄水后，乘坡河水面急剧上涨，下游的堑对、槟榔和万道3个村成为水浸区被迁往高处，镇农场地势较高不受影响，但要过河和捕鱼必须靠船，于是就有了渡船和渔船。这两年干旱，水位下降，鱼儿跟着少了，渔船也用不上了，搁久了也就坏了。
乘坡河自西向东一路奔跑，潇洒自如，过了牛路岭才出现一个新概念——深度，这就是位于琼海市会山镇的牛路岭水库。乘坡河在这里与从琼中县南部下来的中平溪、南茂溪汇合，很快形成清澈平静的水面，倒映出沿岸的森林和当空的蓝天白云。“万泉河九十九道弯，流过九百道险滩，就到我们美丽的会山。这里建起一个大电站，分秒发出强大无穷的交流电，照亮苗寨千家万户的夜晚。”这是会山镇一位年轻的女歌手为游客唱起的一段山歌，足见牛路岭水电站在海南电力版图上的重要地位。
上世纪70年代，海南虽然拥有海口火电厂、潭口火电厂、南丰水电厂，而输送的电量却远不够全岛使用，而且因设备老化，发电率仅达70%左右。当时海南的经济还比较落后，工业项目少，却连城市居民的生活照明用电都无法保证。因此，海南行政区决定在牛路岭兴建一个总装机容量8万千瓦、设计多年平均发电量2.8亿千瓦时的水电站，这是当时海南的重点工程。水电站建于琼海市西南与琼中及万宁县交界处，万泉河上游的牛喉滩峡，因库区有座山叫牛路岭而得名。坝址以上集水面积为1236平方公里，总库容5.3亿立方米，是年调节水库，以发电为主，兼顾下游防洪的大【二】型水电工程。因为是重点工程，凡是牛路岭工程急需的钢材、水泥、木料、炸药等建设物资，只要海南有的一律优先供应，海南缺乏的，则派人到岛外采购。
1975年8月牛路岭水电工程指挥部成立，一支由海南行政区水电局副局长姜成岱等人组成的20多人小分队，跋山涉水开进了牛路岭山区。1976年9月，大批干部、退伍军人、知识青年、农民，从海南各地来到牛路岭参加水电工程建设。据统计资料显示，到1982年，参加的人数超过10万，几乎海南的每个市县都有人参加，堪称是举全岛之力。
在工程机械紧缺的情况下，水电工程建设唯有依靠“人海战术”。“干工用肩扛，睡觉木板房，人人吃着定量粮，十万儿女英雄郎。”这是当时工地流传的顺口溜，却反映出当时的真实情形。参与电站建设的年轻人，在那里奉献了自己的青春和力量，有些人在那里找到终身伴侣，有些人在那里改变了人生轨迹。牛路岭水电工程要建一个高程115米的拦河坝，厂房为内坝氏，厂房内装4台机组，每台发电2万千瓦，大坝所在地还没有通公路，因此，建设电站之前必须修筑通往大坝的公路。
肖云昌，1975年7月刚从海口市秀英镇中学毕业，9月就被抽调到牛路岭参加水库建设，那时他只有18岁。他是第一批到达的民工，他们要做的第一件事不是修路，而是盖房子，好让自己有个睡觉的地方，也为随后即将到来的民工准备栖身之所。肖云昌回忆说，永兴镇去了30人，他们白天上山砍木材，晚上就睡在河边沙滩上，虽然盖着被子，可仍然冷得受不了，不少人都感冒了。11天后，盖成几间油毡顶的木板房，接下来继续盖了不少这样的房子，分布在半山腰。修路正式开始，肖云昌主要工作就是打石头，用铁锤、钢钎凿炮眼。那是一项非常繁重的体力活，手上很快就起了一层茧。
在那个岗位上，他一直干到1981年。肖云昌回到家乡后结了婚，现在永兴自来水厂工作。2007年“牛路岭建站30周年纪念月活动”，邀请建站元老“回家看看”，他最想看的是发电机组，那是电站的“心脏”，以前没见过。
周沈是琼海市长坡镇青葛村的农民，1976年夏天被招为牛路岭水电工程的民工，开始是在“清渣班”工作，就是把炸出来的石块、土方装上“倒车”，推到下游倒掉。后来，他被安排到“风钻班”，时而悬吊在半空，时而又钻进洞穴打风钻。有一次，他在工作时，突然山上滚下一块石头，猝不及防被砸到后腰，是班长扶着他上医院，还准他一个星期的工伤假。
1978年，随着大坝日渐升高，周沈等8位民工，在两位科长的带领下，分组下到各水浸区，动员村民搬迁。要搬迁的村民住得分散，苗族居住的加略村，在琼海的最远处，黎族居住的大桑村又在琼中的边远处，走山路要一天才能到达。指挥部要求在关闸蓄水前，务必搬迁完毕，任务很紧。进村的时候，一群猎狗龇牙咧嘴围住，让他进退两难。经过一年多努力，总算完成前期的搬迁工作。
1979年12月26日，牛路岭水电站一二号机组正式投产发电。第二天《海南日报》社论中提到：“我们建设了一个电站，同时也造就了一支很好的队伍。”1982年，这座海南最大的水电站4台机组全部发电，8千瓦的电能通过高压电线输向全岛各地，点燃了海南人民的建设热情。2001年4月，牛路岭水电站正式启动了“万泉湖风景旅游区”。在景区里，你可以泛舟湖上，或观光或垂钓，也可以游目骋怀，看云卷云舒，看日出日落。
开发海南，是上世纪50年代的一个口号，同时也是一个规划。在中央的关怀下，广东省组织力量在海南开展大规模勘查工作，并提出了综合开发方案，水利规划是其中一个组成部分。水利是农业的命脉，热带作物也需要水。海南岛的河流，属于山区河流，尽管径流丰富，但年内分配极不均匀，雨季流量骤增，枯水期流量锐减，洪水期间水量未经利用即流入大海，加大了下游防洪压力。为了不让河水白白流入大海，充分利用水资源，就必须兴建水库。1956年，经国家水利部审定，松涛水库为开发海南的第一期水利工程，由水利部广州勘测院规划设计。“松涛水库是开发海南的第一把金钥匙”的说法由此而来。
松涛水库位于南渡江上游，为多年调节水库，库区在儋县【今儋州市】境内，白沙县是它的水源区。白沙县水资源丰富，南开河、石碌河和珠碧江三大水系的主要支流有10条，总流域面积2090.3平方公里，占全县土地面积的98.71%，年平均地表水量19.34亿立方米，可利用潜力很大。仅南渡江的干流南开河，每年向松涛水库提供占其入库总量约70%的水源。1958年4月29日，广东省委正式下达兴建松涛水库的通知。那时，松涛水库已被列入国家第二个五年计划，投资额达1.35亿元。这是新中国成立后，国家给广东省投资最大的一个项目，为的是解决海南粮食问题和国内对橡胶的迫切需求。
上世纪50年代，国外敌对势力对新中国采取军事包围、紧急封锁政策，橡胶是战略物资，封锁更加严密。当时国内实生橡胶树产量很低，又缺少种胶技术。当时马来西亚政府规定，凡将橡胶产品或种苗带出境者将被处死刑。1955年11月，雷贤钟冒着生命危险，从马来西亚带回橡胶良种RRJM600、PB86、PR107等100多斤胶籽，300多株芽接桩和200多米长的芽条。
雷德万是雷贤钟的长子，回国那年才9岁，与兄弟姐妹9个一道跟大人坐“海后”号客轮，在大海漂泊几个星期。父亲偷运橡胶种子回国的事，并没有告诉孩子。他只记得，木箱有2米多长、1米多宽，上头还有小兔子，那是用来掩人耳目的。晚上，父亲不时给箱子洒水，那是给橡胶种子保湿。到了海口，海南垦殖分局橡胶处帮父亲租了一辆运煤车，拉着这几十个大木箱，连夜取道五指山往南赶，在崎岖的山路上走了三天三夜才到了藤桥。虽然这些芽条在路上颠簸了将近一个月，但由于是秋季气温不算太高，加上一路上保管得好，成活率达到80%以上。雷贤钟经办的“侨福公司”开荒2000亩，种胶1000亩，还为附近群众传授种胶技术。
1956年4月，周恩来总理邀请他参加全国侨联大会，他被选为全国侨联委员。周恩来总理接见他时，亲切地说：“你带橡胶良种回来，比带金子还宝贵。金子中国有，良种橡胶却很少啊！”国务院还向他颁发奖金，并授予他一面“开荒垦殖，热爱祖国”的锦旗。
经过5年试验，良种RRJM600平均单株年产干胶6至8斤，比海南本地实生树产量高4倍多，不仅在海南垦区广为推广，还引种到云南等垦区。到了上世纪80年代，仅海南垦区种植雷贤钟引进的良种就达200多万亩。后来，人们称他为“橡胶王”。
1954年，马文谷的父亲马高清，就从马来西亚运回橡胶无性系良种芽条，并在1955年9月培育出第一批良种芽条。有人曾以高价求买良种父本，马文谷铭记父亲遗训，拒绝交易，将这批芽条免费赠给南田、南茂、三道等农场。更多的归侨，在农垦橡胶生产第一线，默默地奉献着自己的青春。据1956年调查，当时华侨及归侨在海南岛投资建成大小胶园2325家，占地4万多亩，种胶140多万株。
1958年7月8日，松涛水库举行开工典礼，解放军某部二分队奉命挖掘导流洞，拉开了这场大会战的序幕。6万多民工，从海南11个市县，浩浩荡荡开进建设工地，广东、河南等地的机械、机电施工队，还有从各地抽调的1万多名解放军、警察、机关干部也开始陆续进场。为了能够在一年之内筑起大坝，必须在导流洞打通之前，在大坝上游建起一座围堰，截断南渡江水。
围堰需要大量的土料，当时的土料只能在大坝上游右岸的山上开采，而围堰的工地却在江的另一边。怎样才能通过宽阔的江面，把土料运过来呢？原松涛水库党委秘书欧大鹏回忆说，工地的木工赶制出几百艘小木船，将这些船驶到江面上并起来，再在船上铺上木板，搭成4条浮桥，民工挑着土料通过浮桥进入工地。
1959年2月，松涛水库建设已经实现大江截流，但是导流洞还没有挖通，导致江水一天天上涨，最危险时围堰的高度146米，而水位已达144米。眼看海南的汛期日益逼近，专家们认为，只有赶在汛期前将大坝筑至海拔170米【即坝高53米】高度，并配合导流洞泄洪，才能保证下游几十万人民生命和财产安全。因此，“总攻170”成了水库建设者拼死以赴的任务。水库党委将6.7万民工编成一个民兵师7个团，加上一个军工团，分为两个台班，肩挑车推轮流筑坝。各连队展开劳动竞赛，大坝以平均每天1万多立方米的填筑量在“长高”，最高日进土量达3万立方米。欧大鹏说，1959年国家经济严重困难，原来每人每天有粮食定量，但这一年缩减至1斤，肉油的供应几乎停顿。劳累过度的民工营养没法跟上，再加上卫生条件差，有300多人因为各种疾病牺牲在工地上。他们的名字没有公布，记存于松涛水库的档案中。
1959年8月5日，建设者们终于将大坝筑至170高程，大坝横亘在狮山与琴岭之间，长760米，高53米【后来加高至81.1米】，将奔腾的南渡江水拦截在兰洋和番加洋河谷里，库区面积达144平方公里，集水面积1496平方公里，总库容33.45亿立方米，水库中有岛屿300多个，成为全国第二大土坝水库。1960年2月9日，周恩来总理专程到儋州考察松涛水库建设情况，并为松涛水库题写库名。
1962年6月，著名戏曲家、诗人田汉携夫人到海南访问，乘船畅游松涛水库后，写下一首七律：峰回路转入番洋，万里松涛汗血香。始信渔舟横树杪，居然机艇过山梁。白云堆下峦深紫，碧叶城头草嫩黄。何止腩鱼无限美，渠开早救岛西荒。1963年，松涛水库首次成功放水，灌溉农田12.3万亩。
松涛水库灌区包括整个琼西北，灌渠总长302公里，年均放水11亿立方米，灌溉农田205万亩。干旱的琼西荒地，逐渐成为我国天然橡胶自给的基地。上世纪70年代，海南岛流行一首歌叫《志在宝岛创新业》，这首歌我至今仍会唱，唱着唱着，我觉得又回到了海南，回到了过去，歌词写道：“南渡江水流长，海南一派好风光。豪情满怀建宝岛，喜看荒山变粮仓。稻海翻金浪，胶林遍山冈……”
松涛水库的建设历时12年，挖平13个山头，相继建成大坝、副坝、南丰隧洞、干渠等一系列水利工程，每年给海口、儋州等琼西北4个市县上百个城镇提供生活用水，还给琼西北的12座中型水库、33座小型水库提供补水。如今，松涛灌区粮食总产量占全省粮食总产量的27%，糖蔗总产量和油料总产量分别占全省总产量的53.9%和25.3%，海南岛的橡胶产量占全国的60%以上，成为全国橡胶的主产地，而海南橡胶的主产地则是西部地区。随着海南西部新型工业的快速发展，松涛水库资源更显重要，被誉为海南的“生命之源”和“发展命脉”。
松涛水库以灌溉为主，并具有供水、防洪和发电等功能。南丰水电站属于松涛水库的配套工程，电站建设与水库兴建同步进行。海南西部资源丰富，厂矿也多，用电需求很大。海南最早的一座水电站——东方水电站，就是建在昌化江中上游。那是1942年，日军侵占海南时期，为了掠夺海南的铁矿资源而建的，主要供电石碌铁矿和八所港。1943年11月，日军又在海南建起了全长为80公里的东方水电站抱板——石碌和八所的66千伏输电线路，形成海南第一个小型电网。南丰水电站，是新中国成立后海南开始建设的较大水电工程，为海南电力工业初具规模奠定了基础。
南丰水电站坐落于儋县【今儋州】南部的南丰地区，距南丰镇东北方向两公里处，1959年6月动工，经过两年的基础开挖，于1960年开始浇灌基础。电站的建设经历了“上马”、“下马”，又“上马”，原来设计安装3台机组，总装机容量2.72万千瓦，由于正逢国民经济调整阶段，被砍去1台，总装机容量减少为2万千瓦。这两台机组，原来是用于广东高州良德电站，因为良德电站停建，才调到南丰电站，第一台机组于1968年8月投产发电，第二台机组于1970年8月投产发电。电站机组设计水头35.5米，最大水头41米，最小水头28.8米，设计年发电量7431万千瓦时，1976年创年发电量最高纪录12194千瓦时。电站工程总投资2246.14万元，单位造价1125元/千瓦。
水电是具有自启动能力的电站，在海南省的“黑启动”预案中，南丰水电站被列为重点选择之一。2005年9月26日1时左右，第18号台风“维达”在海南省万宁市沿海地区登陆，台风中心附近最大风力12级，对海南电力设施造成严重破坏，引发部分电厂连续跳机解列，最终系统全部瓦解，导致全省范围的大面积停电。海南电网公司首次紧急启用“黑启动”方案，这是国内迄今为止除演练之外的第一次。
“黑启动”是指整个电网因故障崩溃停运后，系统全部停电，处于全“黑”状态，此时通过系统中具有自启动能力机组的启动和外来电源，带动无自启动能力的机组，逐步扩大系统的恢复范围，最终实现整个系统的恢复和供电。“黑启动”成功的关键是电源点的启动。据了解，海南电网并网运行的统调电厂共有5个，分别是海口电厂、洋浦电厂、南山电厂、大广坝电厂、牛路岭电厂。2时50分，南丰水电站发电机组第一个“黑启动”成功，并通过110伏那南线—那金线—金马线，给海口电厂送上厂用电，保证了海口电厂两台12.5万千瓦机组没有因为安全威胁而损坏，点燃台风之夜海南的“第一盏灯”。
但由于南丰水电站送出负荷只有5000千瓦，不能满足海口电厂至少10000千瓦用电负荷的需求，海口电厂仍无法启动。2时58分，大广坝电厂启动2号机组“黑启动”成功，并通过220千伏大鹅线—鹅洛线—洛玉线—马玉线，给海口电厂送去用电，至此海口电厂进入全面启动状态。4时26分，“金海浆纸”自备电厂成功向主网供电；5时20分，洋浦电厂12燃机“黑启动”成功。5时26分，海南省委、省政府、“三防办”、电力调度指挥中心、新闻单位等重要用户恢复供电。
随着海南开发建设不断加快，叉和水泥厂、海南钢铁厂、莺歌海盐场、东方化工厂、海南电石厂、八所钢铁厂、东方合成氨厂、海溪化学纤维厂等一批工厂【场】相继建成投产，电力需求呈跨越式增长，海南西部各地逐渐建设电站，因为水资源充裕，兴建水电站成为首选。1988年，海南建省办特区，又逢天气干旱，供电非常紧张，出现街边商店自备发电机，千家万户点蜡烛的难堪局面。经济要发展，电力需先行。海南省政府出台政策，加大投入，建设水电厂，1988年至1990年，累计投入资金近9亿元。
1989年，位于海南省西部澄迈县的海口【马村】电厂第一期工程【10万千瓦】建成发电，同时二期工程【25万千瓦】动工建设，于1990年正式投产发电。由此，海口【马村】电厂年发电量占海南发电总量的70%，大大缓解了海南电力紧张局面。
1990年4月，大广坝前期工程全面展开，到1995年4台机组全部投入商业运行。这个水电工程位于东方市东河镇的昌化江上，当水库正常蓄水位140米时，总库容17亿立方米，具有多年调节性能。电站装机容量24万千瓦，年发电量达5.2亿度，是海南省最大的水电站，在系统中承担调峰、调频及调相任务。与枢纽工程配套建设的高干渠是大广坝灌区的重要组成部分，可自流灌溉19万亩，同时补水乐梅水库，扩灌农田6.9万亩。这个工程是利用世界银行贷款的项目，外资额度为6700万美元，国内配套资金由能源部、能源投资公司、水利部、广东省和海南省共同筹集。
水库面积99平方公里，按50年一遇洪水标准征地，淹没耕地28265亩，橡胶地4026亩；按20年一遇洪水标准移民，移民人口18564人。东方市大田镇的一个叫冲俄的苗村没有被淹，但村民们出村只能坐船。听说村子附近有个猕猴洞，我也跟人跑去看看。村里有两艘大船，每天有一艘出村拉货接人，这是苗村与外界联系的唯一交通工具。上午9点左右从村口码头出发，下午3点左右从大广坝渡口回村，每位客人上船要付5元钱。由于常常不能按时开船，必须提前去渡口等，租乘一条打鱼的小船也可以，但是总觉得不安全。到了村口码头，步行3公里才到村委会，想去找村长，没找着，据说他就在船上，正在