Chapter 19 Notes(4)

[71] See my various published papers on the history of color, especially the one mentioned above in note [48], and my collection in Patterns and Colours, Studies in Medieval Symbolism and Sensation, Paris, 1986, and Color , Iconic, Symbolic, Historical and Anthropological Studies", Paris, 1989. ［72］ However, white and undyed are not the same thing.White was considered a single color until the 17th century, that is, until Newton's experiments and the discovery of the color spectrum.Unstained equivalent to grey, taupe or ecru.As for colorless, it is completely different from white.In the Western sense, colorless is transparent, and in terms of social rules, colorless is the color of the skin.The color of the skin has always been the "zero degree" of color in terms of dress; all colored clothing pales in comparison.

[73] M? Kitchens: "When underwear becomes important, it is when underwear changes", Talladega (USA), 1931; C? Willier and P? Cannington: "The Underwear History, London, 1951.See also P. Perrault, The Bourgeois Inside and Outside, Paris, 1981, and G. Vigarello, The Clean and the Dirty, Personal Hygiene since the Middle Ages, Paris, 1981, new edition, 1985. ［74］ All along—feudal times have confirmed this Point—Cool colors are less harsh colors, and therefore more decent and pure than warm colors.Dyeing cloth in cool colors and getting the dye to penetrate deeper into the fibers of the fabric has always been more difficult than dyeing cloth in warm colors.So blue, green and gray clothes were light colored clothes throughout Europe for centuries.However, the difference between light and pastel shades is not as clear, since both require dilution of the dye.

[75] I am borrowing from Jean Baudrillard, "System of Objects", Paris, 1968, p. 40. ［76］ In contemporary French society the striped shirt seems to win over the white shirt, at least in the corporate world.Managers are often referred to as "white collar" (as opposed to "blue collar worker"), however, "senior managers" tend to be referred to hereafter as "stripe collar".See, for example, the cover of Vertex Magazine, Issue 946 (November 26-December 2, 1990), which mentions an article titled "Senior Executives: A Striped Collar Survey."

[77] See supra note [58].Note that some potbellied people wear horizontal stripes on purpose, in order to make people think that stripes make them look fat.This is one of the ulterior stratagems of our time. ［78］ Despite the plethora of books on naval uniforms (there are countless books on naval uniforms), I have found no record of the origin or popularity of the sailor's striped uniform.Is this question taboo?Are stripes here also a sign of exclusion? ［79］ I thank my uncle, Henri Dubiev, for providing me with this information, drawing my attention to the invariance of derogatory stripes in the French Navy.

［80］W? Andrei, "The Evolution of Textile Technology, From the Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution", Paris, 1968; M? M? Glass, "History of the Hosiery Industry", New York, 1955; A? Mortier , Knitwear and the Knitwear Industry, Troyes, 1891. [81] The stripes of a sail serve three purposes: a technical function (joining pieces of cloth together to form a large surface), and a prominent function (a sail with two or more colors of can be seen), and one is power action (striped sails blown by the wind seem to move the boat faster than monochrome sails. See note 57 above).That's why today, in play and race sailing, spinnakers (sails that are raised when the wind blows from behind) are almost all striped.

[82] E.M.C. Barraclough: Flags of Yachts, London, 1951; O. Neubecker, Fahnen und Flaggen, Leipzig, 1939; W. Smith, Flags of All Places and Times, vol. Maidenhead (G.-B.), 1975. [83] G. Jean Aubry: "Eugène Boudin", Second Edition, Paris, 1977; R. Schmidt, "Eugène Boudin (1824～1898), Catalog of Selected Paintings ", Paris, 1973, Volume 3; J. Selz, "Eugène Boudin", Paris, 1982. ［84］G. Desel: "From the Second Empire to the Crazy Years of Daily Life on the Beaches of Normandy", Paris, 1983; A? Hearn: "Holidays by the Sea: A History of British Seaside Resorts", London, 1967; J . Anderson and E. Swinglehurst: The Waterfront of Victoria and Edward, London, 1978; G. Lenoy: Thalassotherapy in the Age of the Striped Swimsuit, Brussels, 1976.

［85］For the first half of the 19th century, see J. Lecker's forward-looking discourse, Thalassotherapy—Guide to the Swimmer's Medicine and Hygiene, Paris, 1846, Vol. 2, who already recommends two-tone bathing suits. ［86］See the previous example of the banker and the thug, both of whom wear striped coats. [87] D. Alexander Bile: "From Flags to Overalls: Children's Clothing in the Middle Ages (13th to 15th Century)", from "Golden Leopard Handbook", Part I, 1989, pp. 123-168. ［88］ The practice of dressing little girls in pink and boys in sky blue began in France, England, and America in the mid-nineteenth century, and has yet to be studied by ethnographers and historians.The appearance and prevalence of this garment is unclear, nor is its precise significance.Until now there has been no really satisfactory explanation (especially a religious one).In my opinion, this is first and foremost a question of social ethics (hence the use of soft or less saturated colours), however, as much as I am a historian of colour, I have to admit that I cannot explain such assignments historically : Pink for girls, blue for boys.Did it evolve from red for women and black for men?

［89］ Note that the French books on zebras are children's books.Today the animal joins pigs, dragons, and foxes as animal stars that are increasingly favored by children and young children, while cats, dogs, rabbits, horses, and even bears are increasingly neglected. ［90］The somewhat boyish coat worn by the jockeys at the races associated the stripes of play, of symbolism, of risk and luck, and of children. ［91］I have to admit that even though I have opened a tube of Jie Nuo toothpaste and even removed the casing ("broken"?), I still don't understand how the striped two-color toothpaste came out of the tube. .Jie Nuo toothpaste makes me unpredictable.Maybe it's better this way.

[92] Of course, Jie Nuo did not give me any sponsorship, asking me to write a few words of praise for its toothpaste.Sponsor research on the history of stripes if it means so after the book is published...   [93] M? Pasturo: "The Color of the Stadium", from "Journal of Twentieth Century History", No. 26, April-June 1990, pp. 11-18. ［94］For the jackets worn by jockeys in racehorses, see note 90. [95] I heard an anecdote from my father, Henri Pasturo, that Picasso went with him to a big dress shop where the painter asked for a pair of striped trousers in order to "paint the buttocks." It was what he said to the salesman.He also requested that it must be vertically striped, in order to be more eye-catching.

［96］Daniel Biran has repeatedly explained that his "creation in situ" is to turn space and objects "into white and colored stripes".For him, it means "emphasizing", "suggesting without pointing out", "giving volume to color", functions that stripes have long had in Western culture.See D. Biran's "Conversation with Ana Baldassari", Paris, 1987.Quite different from Birang's works are the creations of the Zebra group of painters in Germany. Since 1965, this group has chosen to break with abstract art, thus "returning to objects, because all objects are prototypes".The choice of the name Zebra does not mean that stripes will appear in the group's work, it only emphasizes the willingness to part ways with the fashionable painting school, which, in Picasso's words, is to "paint the ass". See W.D. Dibb's Zebra Group, 1965-1975, First Exhibition", London, 1975.

［97］Modern comic strips still show characters such as robbers or villains in brightly striped clothes.For example, in the Asterix adventure book The Golden Hatchet, a fearsome Gallo-Roman mafioso wears a thick yellow and black striped sweatshirt. ［98］In France, newspapers such as Les Ducks make extensive use of this technique to portray dubious or unreliable politicians. ［99］ This may have been the case in the Middle Ages, at least so the heraldic evidence shows, with several horizontal bands of different colours, or with silver and red vertical stripes being the most conspicuous. chapter.But what about other cultures?Has the recent global popularity of Western road signs triggered visual acculturation? [100] H? Filipetti and J. Trottero, "Symbols and Rituals in Traditional Farmhouses", Paris, 1978.Sometimes, especially in Savoie, the stripes are in the shape of a herringbone, and this superlative form seems to provide better protection. [101] This is the view expressed by F. Truffaut in "Hitchcock", Paris, 1984; on the contrary, E. Romer and C. Chabrole think this film is "a great love film" , Hitchcock, Paris, 1975. ［102］The film is based on Frances Bedding's novel "Doctor Edward".Hitchcock wanted the film to be half black-and-white, half color and shot throughout in a madhouse, but the producers said no. ［103］The stripes of jazz musicians are dynamic stripes that combine the stripes of musicians, blacks and street performers.Jazz musicians not only disobeyed social order, but also disobeyed musical order (except in early jazz).They can only wear clothes decorated with stripes. ［104］ One can even rediscover this "ordering" in today's use of friezes to fasten ornaments and to flaunt one's own honour.There is no doubt that the stripes have this function, and here the orderly stripe and the symbolic stripe are merged into one. ［105］ Among fish in the aquarium (butterflies are different), striped ones are especially favored because they are rare.Collectors pay big bucks for them. ［106］ Lines have since been contested by dots or scattered dots, and information technology uses dots more than lines. [107] Isn't it futile to "comb the giraffe's hair," trim its spots, and try to turn it into a zebra? [108] Is it possible to think of the floor as a striped surface, a dangerous surface, and of carpeting as a means of avoiding this danger?Doesn't the floor of planks look like a flap? (The same goes for the striped rugs people lay on, though?) [109] Prints use stripes to densify or darken certain areas of the painting.With stripes, black and white paintings often confuse the parameter of brightness with the parameter of density. [110] D? K? Bennett's "Stripes Are Not Created by Zebras", from "Systematic Zoology", Volume 29, 1980, pp. 272-287; S? J? Gould's " On Spots", from "When the Hen Teeth", Paris, 1984, pp. 391-403. [111] There are many pamphlets written for painters describing the illusion of striated surfaces.Many pamphlets recommend doing vision exercises, which are found in all optics treatises, and fringes are always described as a "blindfold".Of all these works, I think the most accurate are those of the Bauhaus theorists. [112] Hence the use of stripes in the art of camouflage.For example, since World War I, striped patterns (covering graphics) were often painted on the hulls and decks of warships to confuse submarine periscopes.See N. Wilkerson, The Covering Colors of Ships, Newcastle, 1919, and the catalog for the exhibition "Camouflage", Royal War Museum, London, March-April 1989 (thanks to Henry Colomer for the tip ), with regard to animals, zoologists have concluded that the tiger's stripes allow it to better conceal itself in its natural environment and thus better spy on its prey; while the zebra's stripes cannot deceive any predator and therefore cannot give It offers no protection.On the contrary, stripes help zebras to quickly identify the same kind, and when danger occurs, it is convenient to escape collectively, which is conducive to the survival of the population.See the treatise mentioned in note [110].