Chapter 18 Note(3)

[46] See F? T? Prewitt's interesting compilation: "West End, Livery Handbook", London, 1895. [47] There are many sources (chronicles, luxury laws, dress codes) attesting to the scandal caused by this new vestes virgulatae.Before the publication of Odile Blanc's treatise on the costumes of the end of the Middle Ages (with a chapter entitled Enormis novitas dealing with this scandalous problem between 1340 and 1360), there was A Schulz's Deutsches Leben im XIV. und XV. Jahrhundert, passim is available, see also the work mentioned in note 16 above. [48] ​​The great reformers instituted many regulations concerning dress, always recommending dark, plain, and respectable clothing.They abhor bright colors and variegated colors, including striped clothing.See my dissertation: "The Church and Colors in the Early Reformation," from the "Paris Literature Academy Series", t.147, 1989, pp. 203-230.

[49] V? Meltens, the source is the same as before, pp. 30-37.See also HM Müller, Das Regiment der Landsknechte, Wiesbaden, 1976, and Höstöklein, Der deutsche Nation Landsknecht, Leipzig, 1935. [50] G. L. de Buffon's "Natural History", third edition, Paris, 1769.Book Twelfth, Pages 323-324. ［51］It is possible that the revolutionaries in the United States chose a piece of striped cloth symbolizing slavery (striped clothes were already the uniforms of juvenile correctional institutions in Pennsylvania and Maryland in 1770) to express the concept of slaves who broke the shackles. The rules of the stripes were reversed: Thanks to the American Revolutionary War, the stripes went from a sign of deprivation of liberty to a sign of freedom gained.For the (ambiguous) origin of the American Star-Spangled Banner, see W. Smith, The American Flag, New York, 1975.

［52］ H. Clouzot and C. Flot, "The History of Wallpapering in France", Paris, 1935; "Three Centuries of Wallpapering", Museum of Decorative Arts Exhibition, Paris, 1967. ［53］The origin of the French tricolor is unknown, and there are various theories.Evidently the identification of nationalities preceded the tricolor flag, it is not clear how the tricolor flag appeared on 14 and 17 July 1789, especially what the white, blue and red signified in the first place.The previous interpretations (white = the color of kings, blue and red = the colors of Paris) seem to be abandoned today.On the eve of the Great Revolution, Paris had not used blue and red as the symbolic colors of the city for a long time.As for Lafayette, he often boasted that he had devised three colors before July 17, 1789, and had found a special emblem (King's Ribbon and the double ribbon of the Paris militia), he is lying.I think it's safe to say that the three colors come from the American Revolutionary War, because they were already the colors of freedom when the French Revolution broke out.Hervé Pinotto, who is currently finishing a book called Symbols of France, agrees.See also R. Girardet's dissenting opinion, "Three Colors," in "The Place of Memory," edited by P. Nora, vol. 1, Paris, 1984, pp. 5-35.

[54] Even in 1848, Louis Brown, who advocated the red flag, denounced the tricolor flag as a symbol of class society, contrary to the principle of equality believed by the Republic.See M? Agulon's "Marianne of Combat", Paris, 1979, pp. 85-87. [55] See above note [53] the work of Raoul Girardet, who revealed the pattern evolution of the tricolor flag.See also C. Acker and G. Linard, History of the French Flag, Paris, 1934, which replaced D. Lacroix's Unofficial History of the French Flag, Paris, 1876. [56] See Jean-Michel Ambert's excellent essay: "Egyptism in Western Art", Courbeval, 1989.

[57] All windblown fabrics are or can be striped fabrics: tents, sails, tents, banners, flags, windscreens, kites, etc.The gingham is never completely static, it puffs up, deflates, comes to life, shifts position, signifies transformation.Therefore, it is often used in investiture ceremonies and ceremonies of passage. ［58］Modern clothing forms such a cultural convention in the visual system: a fat man or woman never wears horizontal stripes, which seem to make the body look squat, on the contrary they wear vertical stripes, which make people appear Slim, especially narrow vertical stripes.

［59］ On the contrary, such clothes were worn in the Soviet Union until recently (at least the photographs published in some Western presses lead us to think so). ［60］ I admit that it is impossible to determine the origin of this clothing and its development until the middle of the nineteenth century.Books on the subject are very limited. [61] M. Bourdet-Préville: "Boat Prisoners, Exiles, Convicts", Paris, 1957, p. 128; M. Clare, "Daily Life in the Prison of Convicts", Paris, 1973 , pp. 118-119. 62 On the contrary, in the seventeenth century red was already a color ripe for such distinctions and finding its place in the clothing of outcasts or prisoners, such as the coat of a ship's prisoner.In contrast, striped clothing is not used on warships.See A. Zischberger, Marseille in the Age of Warships, Paris, 1983; ibid., The King's Ship Prisoners: The Life and Fate of 60,000 Convicts on French Warships, Paris, 1987.

[63] In addition to the works mentioned in the note [61], there are M. Alois, Convict Prisons, History, People and Customs, Paris, 1845; J. Detron's Consulate and Empire The Concentration Camps of Convicts", Paris, 1885; E. Divadone's "Life of Convicts", Paris, 1932; P. Zallner's "History of Convict Prisons Since Its Creation", Paris, 1873. [64] Did the navy—besides warships—play a role in this?From sailors to rebels, from rebels to prisoners in concentration camps, it is easy to make such associations.As far as France is concerned - although the French navy uses stripes less and later than the British and Dutch navies - see A. Cabantu's "Masts and shackles, rebels and deserters in the ancient French navy (17th century ~ 18th Century) Paris, 1984.

65 I refer to the writings of Michel Foucault, especially The History of the Madman in the Classical Period, Paris, 1961; and Surveillance and Punishment: The Birth of the Prison, Paris, 1975.The title of this paragraph was inspired by the title of the book. 66 Linguists disagree with this view, and neither does any etymological dictionary of German.These dictionaries associate the word "streifen" with the root "ster-" (as in stern) and with the sense of spreading out, displaying, emanating, rather than the large verb "strafen" (to punish). word families linked together.See, for example, Ursprung der Wöter. Etymolog-isches Wöterbuch der deutschen Sprache by Lö Mackensen, 2nd ed., Munich, 1988.Pages 374 and 376.I still believe that streifen (stripe) is in the same family as strafen (punishment).

[67] This is amply demonstrated by the coat of arms, such as that of Strasbourg: a coat of arms with red stripes on a silver background, that is, a red diagonal stripe on a white background.This is probably the pattern that marks the surname, which plays a word game between strasse (meaning stripes here) and strassburg (Strasburg). [68] C? T? O'Neill, "Oxford English Etymology Dictionary", Oxford, 1966, p. 876.Note the association between stripes and strip-tease (literally translated as exasperating to take off clothes), both are stigmatizing. [69] See A? Ernu and A? Meyer's "Dictionary of Latin Etymology", 4th Edition, Paris, 1959, pp. 656-657.

[70] Comparing the clothes that are only worn at home - pajamas and the clothes that can be worn in public - shirts, it can be seen that the former has the characteristics of "concentration camp" compared with the latter.If it is striped, then the pajamas are like a cage, shutting the sleeping person inside, in order to better isolate him.Note also the relationship between the stripes on pajamas and the state of gaps caused by sleep; crosswalk lines, railway sleepers, tents, etc., also conjure such associations.Streaks are often associated with in-between places and states.