Chapter 50 Section 3 Ladies Crown Clothes

The highest rank in women's clothing is the queen, empress dowager, prince, county king Fujin ("wife" in Manchu, translated as "madame"), Baylor and the wife of the Duke of Zhen, Duke of Fu, princess, princess and other royal ladies. , and the crown clothes of wives such as Mrs. Pinguan.It is broadly similar to men's clothing, with slightly different tiaras. There are facing crowns and auspicious crowns, which are divided into winter and summer.The empress dowager and the queen are crowned, extremely rich.Smoked mink is used in winter, green velvet is used in summer, and red hat weft is decorated on top. There are three layers on the top, each with an oriental bead, which is succeeded by a golden phoenix. , 21 pearls.The back is decorated with a gold Zhai with beads hanging from its tail. There are 302 pearls in total.In the middle is a lapis lazuli knot with a golden title, and the end is decorated with coral.There are two bright yellow strips hanging from the collar behind the crown, and the ends are decorated with gemstones.The crown decorations for royal women and wives below the queen are descending in descending order.The concubine's crown was crowned with gold and blue satin as a belt.Prince Fujin changed the golden phoenix to the golden peacock, and also differentiated the grades by the number and quality of jewelry.There are also gold covenants, earrings and other ornaments on the crown.The golden covenant is used to make appointments and is worn under the crown, which is also a unique crown decoration for noble women in the Qing Dynasty.Jinyue is a gold engraved round hoop decorated with cloud patterns and inlaid with oriental beads, pearls, coral, turquoise, etc.Earrings, according to the regulations of the Qing Dynasty: "three on the left and one on the left, and two on each of the first-class and eastern pearls for each golden dragon." It turns out that the traditional custom of Manchu women is to wear three pliers in one ear, which is different from the one ear and one pendant of Han women.That is to say, Manchu women need to pierce three small holes in their earlobes and wear three earrings when they are young. One small earlobe bears three earrings, and the pain can be known.The heavy burden of the queen's earrings is no different from a punishment.But the Manchu rulers never tire of it, and repeatedly emphasized that no changes are allowed.Emperor Qianlong specially issued an edict for this matter: "Banner women wear three pliers in one ear, which is an old Manchurian style and must not be changed. I choose to see the beautiful women with wrapping collars, and they all wear a pendant, and follow them to the end. With one ear and one pincer, it is not Manchuria, so it is forbidden" (Xu Ke, "Qing Barnyard Banknotes").Even in the period of the Republic of China, Manchu women still followed this bad habit.

The costumes include court gowns, court robes, court skirts, dragon coats, dragon robes, auspicious coats, mangfu python robes, colorful pendants, court beads, etc.There are three types of clothing for the queen's court gown, all of which are decorated with azurite pieces and gold borders.The embroidery patterns are all dragons, positive dragons, or flying dragons, and the hems are either walking dragons, or eight treasures, flat water, and Wanfu Wanshou.There are also three types of court robes, all of which are made of bright yellow brocade with dragon patterns woven on them.There is also the second type of dragon coat, which is stone blue in color and embroidered with golden dragons.The bottom panel of the first type is eight treasures standing water, and two dragons are embroidered on each sleeve end; the bottom panel and sleeve ends of the other type are not decorated with patterns.There are three types of dragon robes, all of which are bright yellow. The collar and sleeves are stone blue, and all are embroidered with golden dragons. The main difference lies in the different dragon patterns and the number of decorations.In addition to gowns and gowns, collars are indispensable for clothing.This is also one of the costumes of noble women with titles in the Qing Dynasty.The collar is in the shape of a hoop, adorned with jewelry, which is placed outside the collar to restrain the collar.The queen's collar is engraved with gold, decorated with 11 oriental pearls, with coral in between, two yellow ribbons hanging from both ends, coral in the middle, and two turquoises at the end.The bead ornaments of concubines and concubines were reduced to seven.Chaozhu, the three sets of Chaozhu worn by empress dowagers and empresses when they wear court clothes, one is Dongzhu, which is hung in the middle, and two sets of coral beads are hung from the left and right shoulders, crossed on the chest.When wearing auspicious clothes, hang a plate of court beads, and the treasures are free.Caibei is a decoration that hangs in front of the waist when noble women wear court clothes. The lower end is triangular and the upper end is embroidered with patterns.The queen's embroidered ribbon is green, with the embroidery pattern of "five grains will be plentiful", and she wears admonishment tubes and zhi (small bags) and so on.The tassels are bright yellow.According to different status levels, colors and embroidery patterns are also different.Concubines and concubines embroidered "Yunzhi Ruicao", while Prince Fujin was moon-white, without embroidery patterns.The gowns of the commanding wives are generally similar in shape and structure, but the colors and patterns are different. The gowns and gowns are all determined by the grade of the husband or son.