Chapter 49 Section 2 men's clothing

Generally, men's clothing includes robes, coats, jackets, shirts, and trousers.Long robes, also known as cheongsams, were originally the most representative garments in Manchu clothing.After the Qing soldiers entered the customs, the soldiers and civilians all over the country were ordered to "shave their hair and make clothes easier", and the Han people also quickly changed the original style of toga with large sleeves and replaced it with this long gown.Cheongsam has thus become a unified national dress, a year-round clothing for men, women and children.It can be made into single, clip, leather and cotton to suit different climates.The style of the cheongsam is a round neck, a large placket, flat sleeves, and a slit.With the development of society, cheongsams are also evolving, especially women's cheongsams, which have changed a lot.The general trend is more in line with the needs of people's real life.By the period of the Republic of China, this kind of robe was still clothing for some formal occasions.The mandarin jacket is worn with the robe, which is covered outside the robe. It was originally a kind of outer jacket often worn when riding a horse. Because it is convenient for riding a horse, it is called "mandarin jacket".Its style is a round neck, with slits and buckle loops, and the length only reaches the waist.Jackets can also be divided into single, clip, leather and cotton.When the Manchus entered the customs, mandarin jackets were only worn by soldiers of the Eight Banners.In the last years of Kangxi (1662-1722 A.D.), children from rich families began to wear them.During the Yongzheng period (1723-1735 A.D.), more and more people wore them.Later, it spread to the people, regardless of high or low, and gradually became a kind of dress.There are double-breasted, big-breasted and pipa-breasted jackets.One of them is called Desheng gown, with square sleeves at the front of the breast. It was only used for luggage at first. Since Fu Heng returned to Beijing after conquering Jinchuan and Jinchuan, he liked its convenience and often wore it, and it became popular for a while.Suede fur mandarin jacket is the clothing of high-ranking officials and nobles.Waistcoats, or waistcoats and vests, were very fashionable in the Qing Dynasty.The waistcoat is evolved from the "half arm" of the Han nationality. It has no collar, no sleeves, and double breasts. It is easy to put on and take off, and some of them are also worn outside the robe for decoration.In the Qing Dynasty, the waistcoats were very particular about materials and workmanship, and there were many changes in styles. The "Batulu" vest is quite special. "Batulu" means "warrior" in Manchu.Its style is like the "one-word vest" in the south, with buttons on the one-shaped front and buttons on the underarms on both sides.At that time, it was very popular among the children of the Eight Banners in the capital.Later, sleeves were added to the hakama (lanlan) on both sides of it, called "eagle arms".It is written that Jia Baoyu and his sisters meet at Luxueting to watch the snow scene, and Baoyu "wears an eggplant-colored duolai fox fur jacket and a sea dragon kitty jacket" (Chapter 49).Children of the Eight Banners often wear this kind of "eagle-arm jacket" when riding horses to show their prestige.The waistcoat has both decorative function and practical value, and it is still the clothes that people like today.Long gowns and gowns were the main dresses of men in the Qing Dynasty, and those worn by officials had two slits.There is another kind of robe without slits that is worn in winter called "Yibaoyuan".

The colors of clothing in the Qing Dynasty were relatively rich. Except that the folks were not allowed to use yellow and fragrant colors (colors between yellow and green), the imperial court had few restrictions.However, people's preferences and social fashions vary from period to period.In the early Qing Dynasty, blue was popular, and people chose it as light and bright, so sky blue, sapphire blue and other colors were loved by people, and even affected the inner courtyard of the palace; True red, bay red, pink, etc. have become the preferred colors for men, women, and children's clothing; in the last years of Qianlong, Fukang Anxi wore deep crimson, and people rushed to imitate it, which was called "blessed color". "Fu" not only represents the color of crimson, but also contains blessings. People are willing to use "blessing" colored clothes to obtain happiness, so crimson is all the rage; until the end of Jiaqing (1796-1820 AD), it was dark and dark again. Pursue bright and clean light gray, bright gray, silver gray and other colors.

Men in the Qing Dynasty, regardless of their age, had to wear hats all year round, which may be related to the customs of the Manchus.Hats include top hats and caps.There are two types of top hats: warm hats and cool hats.The warm hat is used in the cold season. It is a round hat made of satin, woolen or felt, with a brim about two inches wide rolled up around it, and fur or woolen are inlaid according to the weather.The cool hat is shaped like a bamboo hat, and the cool hats of ordinary people are woven with bamboo and rattan silk.The cap, the most common one is the melon skin cap, which is made of six petals stitched together, with a pointed top and a wide bottom, in the shape of a melon, with a round top and a knot woven with red or black silk thread on the top.In order to distinguish the front and back, there is an obvious sign called "Mao Zheng" nailed in the middle of the brim of the hat.Aristocrats and wealthy gentry mostly used precious pearls, jade and gems such as pearls, emeralds, cat's eyes, etc., while ordinary people used silver flakes and feeding utensils.For the sake of appearance, some of the Baqi disciples hang a chi-long tassel of red silk called "red man" on the knot of the hat.This form has also changed.At the beginning of Xianfeng (1851-1861 A.D.), the "maozheng" was not taken by ordinary people. For convenience, the top of the hat was made pointed.The cap is a soft tire, which can be folded and placed in the bosom.The felt hats worn by general market vendors and farmers also follow the style of the previous generation.In winter, people often wear hoods, also known as "Guanyin pockets", which are named for their resemblance to those worn by Guanyin Bodhisattva.Men in the Qing Dynasty wore shoes when they wore casual clothes and boots when they wore official clothes.Boots are mostly made of black satin with pointed toes.The Qing Dynasty stipulated that only officials were allowed to wear square-toed boots when they wore court uniforms.