Chapter 36 Section 3 Costumes of the nobles in the Jin Dynasty

The rich and powerful in the Jin Dynasty used silk for spring and summer, and mink, fox, raccoon, and lamb for autumn and winter.Their turbans are embellished with pearls in the cross seams of the square tops.Since the Jin people entered the Yellow River Basin, the rulers of the Jin Dynasty promulgated a new service system based on the precedents of the Han, Tang, and Song Dynasties. The emperor's clothes are undoubtedly the most advanced.For the imperial crown, the green Luo is the exterior, and the red Luo is the interior.There are four pillars under the Miantian plate, and there are 24 front and rear beads.黈纩 2, real pearl hanging, hosta, the top of the hairpin is engraved with engraved clouds and dragons.Compared with the Tang and Song Dynasties, this kind of shape seems to be older.The emperor's Dagon clothes consist of two parts: clothes and clothes. The clothes are made of Qingluo, painted with colorful gold, with figures such as the sun, moon and rising dragon on the front, and stars and rising dragons on the back; the clothes are made of red Luo. Embroidered with graphics such as algae and rice flour.For all great sacrifices and honorary titles, the emperor wears the crown.When going out, fasting out of the palace, and the Imperial Palace, they wear a crown of heaven and a crimson gauze robe.The costumes of the emperor when he was in court and listening to politics were different in the early and late periods.At first, they wore ocher yellow clothes; later, they wore light yellow robes.Wear a small hat, red scorpion, side belt or drawstring when you often go to court.

The queen's first dress is a crown of flowers and plants, represented by green silk, with gold and red rotoli lining the green silk, with nine dragons and four phoenixes, a big dragon holding a spike ball in the front, 12 flower plants at the front and back, peacocks, clouds, and clouds. Crane and other patterns are made of pearls decorated with gold and pearls paved with emerald drops of powder, with a gold ring mouth on the bottom and a nest of seven treasures on the top.The crown of flowers is named after "twelve flowers each".It is more exquisite than the first clothes of empresses in Tang and Song dynasties.The empress' sacrificial attire is called Yiyi, which is woven into the image of Huidi in dark green Luo, with red Luo Yunlong on the collar, sleeves and hem.The clothes are woven into Zhai pattern with dark green Luo, and the edge is red Luo Yunlong.Dresses have existed since ancient times, but those of the Jin Dynasty had more diverse patterns and more refined workmanship.

The noble crown of the crown prince is made of nine white beads, red silk for tassels, green silk for ears, and rhinoceros hairpins for guidance.Dagon clothes, green clothes and red clothes, clothes have five patterns of mountains and dragons, and clothes have four patterns of algae and rice.White socks, Zhu Xi.This is the dress worn by the crown prince when he visited the temple, which is similar to the dress worn by the crown prince of the Song Dynasty.When the prince entered the court and went to banquets, he used court clothes, namely purple robes, jade belts, and double fish bags.When they inspect affairs and meet guests, they wear small caps, soap shirts and jade belts.This attire appears light, easygoing, and natural.

The court clothes of all the officials in the Jin Dynasty were used to guide the driver and perform grand ceremonies.Zhengyipin's clothes, sable cicada cage scarf, seven-beam forehead flower crown, rhino hairpin guide, saber, Feiluo sleeves, Feiluo skirt, Feiluo knees, Feibailuo big belt.White silk socks, black leather shoes.The clothes of the second grade are the seven-beam crown, the rhinoceros hairpin guide, the big scarlet sleeves, and the brocade and jade ring ribbon with miscellaneous flowers.For other officials, the lower the grade, the fewer crowns and beams, and the lower the quality of clothing.Dresses, civil servants and officials above the fifth rank are purple, the sixth and seventh ranks are scarlet, and the eighth and ninth ranks are green.The specific form is that the third division, the third prince, the prince, and the prime minister wear the big Duke flower for the first rank, the small Duke flower for the ruling officials, the scattered flowers for the second and third ranks, and the small miscellaneous flowers for the fourth and fifth ranks. The sixth and seventh ranks wear scarlet sesame, while the eighth and ninth ranks wear green and non-patterned Luo.Different varieties of flowers mark different grades, which is the first of its kind in official uniforms in the Jin Dynasty and is unique.

In the early Jin Dynasty, the fish bag system was implemented.The crown prince wears a jade belt and wears a double fish bag.The prince wears a jade belt and wears a jade fish.A civil servant, a first-class jade belt and a goldfish.The second grade Shuhu head ball Wen gold belt, wearing goldfish.The third and fourth grades are golden belts with lychees or royal fairy flowers, and goldfish on them.Fifth grade bunch of red scorpion [ting hall] black rhinoceros belt, wearing goldfish.Military officers, the first and second ranks wear jade belts, the third and fourth ranks wear gold belts, the fifth to seventh ranks wear red and black rhinoceros belts, and do not wear fish, and the eighth and lower ranks use soap and black rhinoceros belts.In the 16th year of Dading (AD 1176), Sejong believed that there was little difference between the clothes of officials and civilians, and it was not easy for relevant institutions to check, so he decided to change to the book bag system, that is, hanging book bags on the belts of officials, as a distinction between officials and civilians. symbols of.Its material and color vary from grade to grade.Provinces, Privy Council orders, and translation history are made of purple silk; Taiwan, Liubu, Zongzheng, Tongjun Division, and Procuratorate are made of black oblique leather; temples, prisons, and Sui Dynasty bureaus and counties are made of yellow leather. Each is seven inches long, two inches wide, and half an inch thick. It is hung on the belt and hung on casual clothes when leaving the office. Violators will be investigated and dealt with by relevant agencies.