Chapter 34 Chapter 7 Liao, Jin and Yuan Costumes

When Emperor Taizu of the Liao Dynasty proclaimed himself emperor in the north, he used armor as his court attire.After occupying the territory of the Later Jin Dynasty, the rulers of the Liao Dynasty established a new uniform system under the influence of the Han nationality. Khitan officials wore their own national costumes, while Han officials still wore Hanfu.During the Qianheng period (979-983 A.D.), the clothing system changed again: Khitan officials of the third rank and above also wore Hanfu when holding grand ceremonies.There are two kinds of daily official uniforms: the emperor and Han officials wear Hanfu, and the empress and Khitan officials wear Khitan uniforms.After the first year of Chongxi (1032 A.D.), the big ceremonies were all changed to Hanfu.It is not difficult to find that the emperors of the Liao Dynasty and the Song Dynasty had different attitudes towards foreign costumes.The emperors of the Song Dynasty adopted a tough approach of prohibiting the spread of Hufu, while the emperors of the Liao Dynasty took a tolerant attitude towards Hanfu and regarded it as a dress.What is particularly interesting is that the emperor wears Hanfu and the queen wears Khitan clothing, presenting a harmonious atmosphere.

Because the Liao region is located in the north, and it is cold for a long time, most of the emperors and ministers of the Liao Dynasty wore sable fur.The emperor wore the most expensive silver sable fur, ministers wore purple sable fur, and subordinates wore sand fox fur.The Khitan people are mainly nomadic, offering sacrifices to mountains is a big ceremony, and their costumes are particularly rich.During the great sacrifice, the emperor wore a golden crown, a white silk robe, a red belt, a fish bag, a rhinoceros jade knife, and black boots with webbing.During the small sacrifice, he wore a hard hat and a red gram (ke) silk tortoise-pattern robe.When hunting in the field, they wear a scarf and armored military uniform, and use a mink or a goose neck or a duck head as their waist.

The costumes of the emperor's own ethnic group are as follows: wearing a real Xue Gun crown, a red robe with seams, a rhinoceros jade belt, and boots with seams.Dresses are purple soap towels, purple narrow robes, jade belts, or red coats.Common clothes are green flower narrow gowns.The emperor also wears the crown of Hanfu: the crown is a gold ornament, with twelve hanging beads, 黈纩 filling the ears, and jade hairpins guiding.Xuanyi, clothes.Clothes have eight patterns of sun, moon, star, and dragon, and clothes have four patterns of algae and pink rice.Large belt, Xie plus gold ornaments.This is the attire for offering sacrifices to the ancestral temple, sending generals to expeditions, and accepting queens.Compared with the Dagon clothes of the Song Dynasty, this kind of Dagon clothing has one more pattern on the clothes and one less pattern on the clothes, and the patterns are similar with minor differences.

When the queen sacrificed for a small sacrifice, she wore a red handkerchief, a red robe with seams, a jade pendant, and black boots with seams.Compared with the costumes of concubines in the Song Dynasty, the styles and patterns are slightly simpler and monotonous. When the crown prince visited the temple and returned to the palace, on the first day, the winter solstice, and the first day of the new year, he had to wear a distant tour crown and a crimson gauze robe.It crowns with three beams, adds gold and attaches nine cicadas, the first is pearls and emeralds, and the rhinoceros hairpin is the guide.Compared with the crown prince of the Song Dynasty, Zhu Mingyi changed into a crimson gauze robe, which is a little more simple.

Officials of the Liao Dynasty wore felt crowns, decorated with golden flowers, pearls, jade and emerald hair, and golden flowers hanging behind their foreheads.Some wear gauze crowns, made like black gauze hats, without brims, and do not cover their ears.The forehead is prefixed with golden flowers, and a purple belt is tied on the top.Some wear narrow purple gowns with ties, embellished with gold, jade, crystal, and indigo, called "Panzi".Elderly veterans can wear brocade robes and gold belts.Officials of the third rank and above wear the Jinxian Crown, with three beams and jewel ornaments; officials of the fifth rank and above wear two beams and gold ornaments on their crowns; officials of the ninth rank and above wear a crown with one beam and no ornaments.Officials usually wear narrow gowns or brocade gowns, usually with a left lapel, a round collar, narrow sleeves, and the color is grayish.