Chapter 15 Section 2 men's clothing

During this period, people changed the ancient habit of wearing robes and clothes, removing the clothes and directly using robes as outer clothing.Clothing is developing in a loose and comfortable direction.Men's main clothing is shirt.There are two styles of shirts: single and clip, which are different from the robes in Qin and Han Dynasties.It is not bound by clothing, has wide cuffs, and is mostly made of yarn, silk (crepe and other silk fabrics), cloth, etc.According to Mr. Lu Xun, the reason why this kind of wide-sleeved shirt became popular for a while was related to the fact that celebrities at that time liked to take a medicine called "Wu Shi San".It is said that this medicine can strengthen the body and prolong life.However, because the medicine contains minerals such as amethyst, white quartz, and stone sulfur, which are highly toxic, it will generate huge internal heat after ingestion, and the skin will have a fever, so it must be "distributed".Therefore, it is necessary to wear loose clothes.As a result, "General celebrities take medicine and wear loose clothes, so people who don't take medicine also follow the celebrities and wear loose clothes." At that time, celebrities advocated nothingness, valued distance, and pursued freedom in Wei and Jin metaphysics and Taoism. Under the influence of Da Da's thoughts, due to the awakening of personality, he also likes to ride high, wear a crane cloak, or bare his chest and bare feet to show that he is not bound by secular ethics.Calligraphy sage Wang Xizhi lay flat on his stomach in the east chamber, and he didn't take Taiwei Xijian's choice of son-in-law seriously at all, but he was chosen; Gu He, a businessman in Yangzhou, parked at the gate of the state, and saw Zhou (Qiye), an important official in the court, passing by He was still unmoved by the lice, so he was strongly recommended by Zhou. These two interesting stories are enough to reflect the mentality and social customs of the people at that time.

Men's clothing of northern minorities mainly consist of trouser pleats and crotch.The trouser pleats are processed by the reformation of a Hu suit popular in the Warring States Period.During the Han and Wei Dynasties, it was mainly used for the army.Although it was still used as a military uniform during this period, it has become a casual dress commonly worn by the people.It consists of two parts: pleats and trousers.The pleats are tight and narrow, reaching only to the knees.It has many styles, only the sleeves are wide, narrow, long and short.As for the form of the skirt, most of them use the double skirt.Some also cut the hem of the clothes into two slashes, covering the two fronts, forming a small dovetail in the middle, which is very unique.Some of them are embroidered with cloth, some are cut with brocade, and some are sewn with animal skins.Belt pleats are often used for waistbands, and high-ranking officials and officials are also engraved with gold and silver as decorations.The trouser pleats are cut into three-foot sections with a brocade red belt, and the loose trousers are tied at the knees for movement.After the Northern Dynasties, the form of pleated trousers also appeared.

The crotch is a kind of clothing with only two pieces on the chest and back, which are sewn with cloth.The two pieces are connected at the shoulders with leather loops (dapan) and tied with a belt around the waist.This kind of clothing can be worn inside or outside, with cotton and clips, and has been inherited for a long time in later generations. "Back" and "vest" evolved from it.