Chapter 14 Chapter 4 Costumes of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties

Wrapping the head with a piece of silk scarf (that is, "tie the head with a scarf") was the main first garment in this period.This can be clearly seen from the characters in the famous paintings such as "Seven Sages and Rong Qiqi" in the brick-printed murals of the large tomb in the Southern Dynasties, "Collection of Books in the Northern Qi Dynasty" and "Gao Yi Tu".Each of these hermits had silk scarves wrapped around their heads. The shape of the crown cap is quite distinctive.Although the scarves of the Han Dynasty were still popular in this period, they have undergone changes.If the back of the headband is heightened, the middle is flat, and the volume gradually shrinks to the top of the head, which is called flat upper headband, or "small crown".Add a cage scarf (flat top, with drooping ears on both sides, tied with ribbons below) on the small crown to become a "cage crown".Because it is made of black lacquered spun yarn, it is also called "lacquered sarong crown".The Wusha hat of later generations evolved from it.This crown was unisex and was the main crown style at that time.In addition, there are curly lotus hats with rolled brims like lotus leaves, hoods with lower skirts, tall roof hats with high tops shaped like roof ridges, qiaqia with pointed tops, no brims, and gaps in the front, and riding hats, Acacia hats and other shapes.The hood was designed and worn by Cao Cao, Emperor Wu of Wei himself.Due to frequent wars and lack of materials at that time, he replaced buckskin with silk and made it into the shape of a leather bean, and named it Yan Ke.After his advocacy, this first service quickly became popular in the ruling and opposition parties.It is said that Zhang Gui, the governor of Liangzhou in Jin Dynasty, was dying and told him to wear a white sash when he was buried, which shows how much people loved the sash.