Chapter 15 Yanshan Oushui

At the end of last year, the Federation of Literary and Art Circles in Longwan District, Wenzhou City invited me to visit for its 10th anniversary.It's the middle of winter, and even though the earth is warming, it's unnaturally cold across the continent.Although Wenzhou is in the south of the Yangtze River, it is not very warm, often dropping below ten degrees Celsius.Friends in Kaohsiung disagreed, saying it was too cold, so why go at this time.In the end, I went anyway, because a piece of Ou embroidery was hanging on the wall of my house. It was embroidered with the poem "Nostalgia" written by myself, which was quite realistic to my manuscript.Moreover, because Wenzhou was called Yongjia in ancient times, it often reminds people of ancient celebrities. For example, Xie Lingyun, the originator of landscape poetry, was the prefect of Yongjia; Ji, Weng Juan, and Zhao Shixiu are all from Yongjia.Because Wenzhou has repeatedly appeared in famous travel notes and poems, the authors include Shen Kuo, Xu Xiake, Yuan Mei, Wang Siren, Kang Youwei, Pan Tianshou, and Zhang Daqian.

Tiangong is also very beautiful.On January 11th, I arrived at Yongqiang Airport in Wenzhou with Wocun, Ji Shan and my mother and daughter. It had just been cold and rainy, and it was cold, at least ten degrees lower than Kaohsiung.The host who picked up the plane said that the weather has been like this in recent days.But from the next day until we left on the 18th, the winter sun was shining brightly, and the cold weather was filled with warmth. Wenzhou really deserves it.It was lucky that it rained again the day after we left.Not only that, we also happened to see a solar eclipse on the evening of the 15th.

Another good thing is that after my speech, the tour guide originally arranged to go to North Yandang first and then to South Yandang, but in order to get rid of the media following closely, they temporarily changed to go to South Yandang first.The original "anti-climax" was reversed and turned into a "smooth climax", and finally got better. Yandang Mountain is a general term. It actually includes North Yandang, Middle Yandang, and South Yandang. It stretches for more than 120 kilometers from the north of Yueqing City, which is under the jurisdiction of Wenzhou City, all the way to the southwest, to the west of Pingyang County.It can also refer specifically to North Yandang Mountain, because North Yandang has been "developed" for the longest time, has the most inscriptions, and is also the most enthusiastic about tourists.

We went to worship the mountain first, it was Nanyandang.After entering Pingyang County, head west, and finally have lunch at a "Farm House Food Village" on the side of the road.From the upstairs back to the end of the fence, you can already see the abrupt mountain face and stone appearance, and the horns of the head towering against the west sky.Things are obviously different.It is no longer a modest and slow ups and downs, but a deliberate uplift and rise. After waiting for a while on the gravel-strewn beach, everyone tremblingly boarded the long bamboo rafts in batches, and the ferryman carried the pennies to the opposite bank.Looking up at the proud outline of Yuping Peak, it must not be easy for people to pass the test. We can't help but sigh deeply, leaving the steep rocks and steep slopes to our limited lung capacity to deal with.The host who came with me seemed to have guessed what I meant, and implicitly said that there is a dangerous place called "Yunguan".

There are three Taiwanese guests, accompanied by nine hosts: Professor Luo Hanchao and his wife from Zhejiang University, writer Ye Ping, female writers Yang Yang, Dong Xiuhong, and Weng Meiling from the Federation of Literary and Art Circles, photographers Jiang Guorong and Yu Riqian, and tour guide Wu Lingzhen.The next six are all golden boys and girls from Wenzhou. They are afraid that the elders will miss their feet, so they keep fighting for help along the way, sometimes even embracing us, and occasionally "lifting us" at dangerous places, hardly allowing us to "walk" on our own. .Just like "three people walking together, there must be two people guarding against it", a group of people climbed up to the cave scenic spot.

The life experience of Yandang Mountain can be traced back to 230 million years ago.First, the volcano erupted, then collapsed, revived, and then uplifted, finally showing the overlapping peaks, Fangshan, Shimen, Zhufeng, caves, overpasses and canyons seen today. Geologically, it is called "Cretaceous rhyolite caldera".On the other hand, this mountain system is located on the southeast coast, and has suffered the most abundant rainfall in Zhejiang Province, especially typhoons in summer. Therefore, after hundreds of millions of years of fire disaster, there are torrents of water to describe it, forming vivid waterfalls and springs. Qingtan.

We climbed slopes and pierced holes all the way, past the cottages, vegetable gardens, shallow streams, and dry streams at the foot of the mountain.Across the sparse and dense fir and maple forests, the rocky appearance of the mountain is impressively etched. The steep slopes and even the cliffs reveal the cracking method of big ax and small axe, but the top of the mountain is often covered with dark green, and it becomes raindrops again .Some mountain faces and stone patterns are not so straight and flat, but shallow and densely wrinkled, just like the traditional mochi.I wonder what inspiration Cézanne will have when he sees these kinds of textures?

Unless the turn is too sharp or too steep, the bluestone steps under your feet are straight and wide, and it is not difficult to climb.South Yandang is 1,257 meters above sea level, which is not very high, but the whirl of peaks and ridges, the scenery changes with each step, still makes people look up and look down, and it is hard to get a glimpse of it.Passing through Yunguan is Xiangu Cave, and suddenly there is a clanging sound of iron and stone knocking.It turned out that a team of mules descended from the sky, with thin hooves, a total of seven mules, turning and passing by us, and the back baskets were full of stones.The eyes of the mule are narrow and gentle, and every time I see it, my heart is moved, but the mane on the long neck of the few horses I saw that day was all white, but I have never seen it before.

After the mule team passed, I saw a fortune-teller and palmistist set up a booth at the corner of the ramp, and everyone urged me to give it a try, and gathered around to listen to what he had to say.The palm reader opened his palm to me, interpreting my lifeline, career line, relationship line, etc., probably choosing positive words, and the conclusion is that I will live a long life and so on.Everyone laughed, and I laughed even more and said, "I've already lived a long life." Everyone still had a lot to say, and asked him if he could tell who I was.He answered vaguely: "The rank should not be low." Everyone laughed.Let me tell you that once in the Forbidden City in Beijing, a policeman once called me an "old comrade", and another time in the countryside, a village woman called me an "old leader".

After passing Jiuqu Ridge, the winding wooden railing led us uphill all the way to the West Cave.The rock appearance is ancient and abrupt, with ugliness as beauty and strangeness as strangeness. Nine-ren cliffs connect with precarious cliffs to form an irregular vertical bridge, which only allows the squeezed sky to penetrate into it. It is called a cave. Or a crisis?We step by step, straddling the anchorage and crossing the stream.In mid-winter, the water is shallow, but clear and smooth.Unexpectedly, the team of mules from just now came oncoming again, this time it was no longer on a steep slope, but by a stream on flat ground, but it was a narrow path with mixed rocks.There were stone bags on both sides of the mule, everyone dodged hastily, there was a moment of chaos, Meiling, Xiuhong and others had to stick close to the rock wall to escape.

Finally came out of the mountain, boarded the raft again and returned to the ferry, the sun had already set.The gravel beach is full of pebbles, and the water is alluring. I couldn't help it, so I picked up a piece, leaned over, and made a splash.Everyone joined in one after another, picking up pebbles that were flat enough for me to swing.It's a pity that although there are many stones, it is hard to find the really flat and round ones.I tried my best to throw stones and ask for directions, but I could only stir up a couple of waves.Others came to bid with their childlike innocence, but Nian Shi refused to nod, and Han Shui was reluctant to smile.Disappointed, everyone hurriedly boarded the car and drove towards North Yandang Mountain, the destination of the two-and-a-half-hour drive. That night, we stayed overnight at Silver Eagle Villa in Xianglingtou.It was nearly seven o'clock when we arrived. After a hasty dinner, the tour guide Xiao Wu couldn't wait to take us to Lingfeng to spy on the famous night scene.The temperature dropped quickly. Fortunately, there was no wind, but it could be felt that the temperature should be in the low single digits near zero degrees Celsius.Both me and I wore hats and overcoats, and I was still wrapped in thick feathers, with a scarf and a mask.The warm air is exhaled from the mask and meets the cold air on the glasses, turning into an eye-obstructing mist.Although there were two flashlights crossing the road at the front and back, they still couldn't see clearly, so they had to walk staggeringly. Finally groped among the strange peaks and rocks with unique caves, contrasted against the not yet dark night, Xiao Wu pointed out the ambiguous outlines and coincidence shapes of the surrounding peaks for us, saying that it was a couple embracing, this was a rhinoceros looking at the moon, that was With breasts hanging upside down, this is a shepherd boy with a cow's back, and the dangerous rock that is overwhelming is an eagle with wings spread.Everyone looked up and felt pain in their necks and shoulders, and they were in a daze, as if they were sleepwalking together.Suddenly, I intuited that through the leaf gaps of the fir bushes, there was something higher and farther away, which seemed to be signaling to us with mysterious brilliance, no, bright signal.At this time, the entire Lingfeng Park was silent, and the light pollution on the ground was almost zero. Only in the slit of the Guanyin Cave in the distance, there was a tinge of redness that was about to vomit.However, most of the vast night sky is covered by the nearby peaks and distant peaks. To watch the stars, you can only stretch your neck and look up, facing the Tianxin at the top, and it is a place where the shadows of trees are sparse, to identify the canthus.Well, the southeast elevation is around 70, and the three stars are arranged equidistantly from top to bottom, which is the unmoving vertical mark of the starry sky and the easily recognizable belt of Orion. "Your eyes must be set on a higher place." I turned to greet Xiao Wu, who is looking for love in the stone and weaving stories, and her audience, and pointed them to the older stories woven by the Greeks, which were also the ancient astronomers and sea captains. legend. "Have you found Orion's belt? Yes, it's the row of three. Look to the left, that very bright one, like a ruby, is called Betelgeuse, and our star is called Betelgeuse. On the right side of the belt, it is the same as Betelgeuse. On both sides of the belt of four equidistant arch guards, the light blue bright star is called Rigel by the Greeks, and Rigel is the name of our ancestors. At the bottom right of the belt, you see, there is another row of three equidistant stars, which is Orion oblique The sword he wears, with the tip of the sword extended five times in the direction, is the brightest star in the night sky—it is Sirius. These stars are unchanging—this is what Confucius saw, and so did Xu Xiake.” The next morning was another sunny day with no regrets, which was exciting.Over the scaled and gray tiled roof, at the gap between the towering two mountains, a glowing red glow set off a golden sun, as if the god of Yandang Mountain was welcoming us grandly.When I went downstairs, the outdoor courtyard seemed to be caged in a giant furry and white net, and I knew it was different.Meiling, Yang Yang, Xiuhong and others excitedly told me that there was frost last night.No wonder the blades of grass are densely covered with ice crystals.Just like the stars last night, we have not seen this scene in Taiwan, especially in the city for a long time. The terrain of Yandang Mountain is varied and varied. It is isolated from the world, and it is a fairyland of its own. From a distance, you can only see strange peaks and peaks, but it is difficult to see its depth.Just as Su Shi sighed, I don’t know my true face, only because I live in the mountains.No wonder Xu Xiake also sighed: "If you want to win the wild goose, you have to be a flying fairy." There are more than 5,000 inscriptions on travels in ancient and modern times, and they still leave the deepest impression on people.Xu Xiake climbed Yandang Mountain three times, the first time was in the 41st year of Wanli (1613) in Ming Dynasty, when he was only 28 years old.His "Diary of a Tour in Yandang Mountain" that everyone is most familiar with is often found in the anthology of ancient and modern works, and it was recorded on the ninth day of April of that year. We headed northwest from between the Bell and Drum Rocks and entered the Lingyan Scenic Area.Near Shuangzhu Valley, I was attracted by Xu Xiake's white stone statue and stopped.Of course it is Xu Xiake, it is most appropriate for him to lead the Yandang Mountain Road.The statue is about three meters high, with his right hand stroking his long beard, with a smile on his face, his eyes cast into the distance, wandering between the peaks and mountains, as if in a trance, and in a trance.Liu Zongyuan said that "mind congeals form and releases, unites with Wanhua Ming", which is exactly this kind of state.Xu Xiake died at the age of fifty-five, but the statue looks too old.Only three years after his death, the Ming Dynasty fell, but fortunately it did not suffer the pain of subjugation.He failed to serve the country with his death like Shi Kefa did, but the lost lands and mountains of the Ming Dynasty are preserved in his travel notes. They are so magnificent and moving, and they are still eternal Huashan Xiashui, which really corresponds to Du Fu's poem: "The country is broken and the mountains and rivers exist." Walking northward along the stretch of Zhanqi Peak covering the sky, the scenery changes with the movement, and the scenery is overwhelming. How can the shallow and narrow eye sockets and slender eyelashes bear such a majestic mountain and accommodate such a twists and turns?Arriving at Nantianmen, the Tianzhu Peak rising from the ground is pressing on the left cheek, as if it wants to seize the hegemony of Qifeng, and compete to see who is more eye-catching.The proud towns of the Rock Empire surrounded us heavily, looking down on us with cliffs and precipices. Fortunately, there is a thousand-year-old temple with a horizontal plaque with gold characters on a black background hanging on the top of the high lintel. The scattered teahouses just let us take a rest and watch the performance of "Goose Dang Feidu" amidst the fragrance of tea. Following the direction where all the tea guests were looking, I found a red dot wriggling on the top of Tianzhu Peak.Three or four minutes later, he had already swung down to the mountainside. It turned out that he was tied to his waist with two long cables, adjusted constantly, and swung the cables against the rocks, all the way down the cliff.Then it was discovered that he was wearing a red shirt on top, but black pants on his bottom.Finally got down to the foot of the mountain and won a burst of applause. Xiao Wu said that this skill was practiced by farmers in ancient times who went to the mountains to collect herbs.The Dendrobium produced in Yandang Mountain is a precious herbal medicine, but it was born in a precarious and dangerous place, and the herb collectors were forced to take risks, so they had no choice but to commit themselves to long ropes and learn from spiders flying over eaves and walls. Before he finished speaking, the tea guest turned his head and looked up at the void of Nantianmen.Only then did I discover that there was a thin thread between the two towering giant pillars of the so-called Nantianmen—the Tianzhu Peak and the Zhanqi Peak.It turned out that there was already a figure hanging upside down on the steel cable, using all four limbs to climb the lintel of Nantian Gate, standing up, moving forward, lying on his back, jumping, or somersaulting.Suddenly the figure stumbled and fell downside down.It was too late to say it, but he didn't actually leave the rope, but just buckled the rope with his feet upside down.The audience exclaimed in surprise, he had arrived halfway and was scattering the leaves one after another.Finally, he raised the flag and rushed to the top of Zhanqi Peak with broken steps. After paying homage to Guanyin of the South China Sea, everyone went around to the back of the temple to see Fangzhu.Bamboo shoots are conical when they are first born, and become square when they grow up. The dark green color is very quaint, and there are small thorns at the joints, like a tower.Ji Shan held the bamboo in one hand and took a photo nearby. It can be seen that the branches are tall and straight, only slightly thicker than her fingers.I want their mother and daughter to take more photos for future travel notes.Four hundred years ago, Xu Xiake recorded in his diary: "On the 15th day, I found several square bamboos behind the temple, as thin as branches. The new stalks in the forest can be as big as an inch in diameter, but they are not as soft as a stick. Old Ke cut them all down. Hey!" What he saw that day was the square bamboo in Nengren Temple, which was only ten miles away from Lingyan Temple.I was holding a piece of "diameter inch" dark green, hallucinating that I was shaking hands with Xu Xiake.With bamboo as proof, how can I not follow him and continue with a travel note in Yandang? Turn right along the stone path next to Lingyan Temple and climb the mountain, and soon you enter the Xiaolongqiu Valley and arrive at Qiujiao.Unsurprisingly, there are only small streams of trickles at the waterfall site with a drop of 60 meters to answer the story.There are only layers of rock veins and mountains, surrounded by a piece of tranquility.It should be the ideal valley of echoes. I couldn't help but put my palms together halfway on my cheeks to form a horn, and suddenly Ruan Jizhi screamed.It must have disturbed the gods who have been quiet for a long time, and the mountains and valleys responded for a while, and the aftertaste was endless.Unexpectedly, the best sound effect was good luck. This long roar of Chu Kuang and Jin Kuang aroused the excitement of the fellow travelers, and everyone came to participate one after another, becoming the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Forest.Riqian said that he once heard me recite an ancient poem in a speech, and asked me to recite one immediately.I began to chant Su Shi's poems aloud.Everyone clapped their hands together when they heard "How Many Heroes at a Time", and I continued to chant "I think of Gongjin in the past..." and finished the second half of the chant, and the effect was actually good.In recent years, my pronunciation has been low and hoarse, and I have no sound of rejuvenated gold and stone, so I cannot avoid frustration.Maybe it was because I slept soundly last night, the weather was clear, and I had absorbed the phytoncine in the mountains, which made me reborn a little bit, and because I was inspired by Xu Xiake when I first entered the famous mountain, in short, the long shouting and chanting that day actually regained my vitality. I feel close to the ancients and return to good fortune.After me, Ye Ping also impromptuly recited a "Qijue" to welcome me to Wenzhou, and recited a love poem written by Mrs. Luo to her husband forty years ago, which drew applause from Zai Kongshan. Yandang Mountain was first built in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and flourished in the Tang and Song Dynasties.Xie Lingyun of the Eastern Jin Dynasty used to be the prefect of Yongjia. He was addicted to traveling and came from a wealthy family. There were many child slaves and students were also gangsters.But at that time, most of the places he traveled with his clogs were in the middle Yandang Mountains, while the cave Tianfudi in the North Yandang Mountains was still hidden.The mountains of Yandang were formed by the accumulation of acidic magma after the ancient volcanic eruption, and then they were eroded by flowing water to take on their present appearance.Shen Kuo, a scientist in the Northern Song Dynasty, had already pointed out: "I see that all the peaks in Yandang are steep and dangerous, towering thousands of feet up, with dome cliffs and huge valleys, which are not like other mountains. They are all wrapped in valleys. From the outside of the mountains, there is nothing to see. In the middle of the valley, it is dense and dry. The reason is that at that time, the flood in the valley washed away all the sand and soil, but the huge rocks stood upright. Like the big and small Longqiu, etc., they are all planted with soil and niche rocks, and the same kind of ears. "It was not until 2005 that the United Nations selected this mountain as a "World Geopark".Therefore, today's tourists come to the mountain and have already obtained the convenience of modern construction, which is far from what Xu Xiake's adventures and hard work can compare with. From the bottom of Xiaolongqiu, you can take the elevator straight up 50 meters, and then you will be connected to the iron railing plank road against the cliff, and next to the deep Wolong Valley, you can identify the source of Xiaolongqiu.I climbed up the railing and looked down into the deep valley, which shocked the hosts of my companions. In the afternoon we went straight to Dalongqiu. Knowing that the midwinter cannot be extravagantly expecting flooding water, we also wanted to admire the 197-meter fall.First, pass the so-called Scissors Peak, imagining that the scenery will change step by step, and become illusions of magnolia flowers, woodpeckers, bear rocks, mast peaks, Yifan peaks, and so on.Finally arrived at the cold pond formed by the waterfall, I saw a clear and shallow pool with sparkling water, which can support a long raft.It was early summer when Xu Xiake came here for the first time. "After the accumulated rain, raging waves poured in, changing polarity, thunder and snow, twice as big as yesterday."But at this moment, the water potential on the top of the cliff is not strong, and the falling posture is soothing. First, it will form a strand, and halfway, it will dissipate into white smoke and mist. It is completely irresponsible. , can still make Ji Shan and the accompanying girls scream excitedly while playing in the rain.This shot was captured by Guorong and Nissan Kuaishou within a click.I avoided the foot of the waterfall and used gecko skills to swim close to the deep hole of the waterfall wall until the end of the road.Riqian also followed.Unexpectedly, the dangerous wind blown by the waterfall also hit against the wall of the cave.I wore a woolen red hat and wrapped in a thick feather coat, but I was still shivering. The peaks are high and the peaks are connected. Although it is a sunny day, the twilight still comes quickly.For a while, only our humming sound is left in the whole Qiugu, and everything else is silent.After passing Fuhu Peak, we walked south along the stone path, and saw that the parallel peaks of Qianfo Mountain were connected into continuous winding peaks, screened in the eastern sky.The sunny sunset reflected on the precipitous cliff was very spectacular and warmed our left cheeks. The scene seemed like the Yandang Mountains were queuing up to say goodbye. Yandang Mountain has the reputation of "Famous Mountain on the Sea", "Superior in the World", "Wonderful Beauty in the World", and is known as "The No. 1 Mountain in the Southeast".From North Yandang, Middle Yandang, West Yandang to South Yandang, Panpan 囷囷, Yu Yuleilei, this whole family of dragon veins, the Saga Empire, defended the former Yongjia, today's Wenzhou, only open the shore of the East China Sea, let the Oujiang River Go out to sea.As far as North Yandang Mountain is concerned, the complexity of the mountains and rivers and the infinite changes of the scenery have already made the ancients chant it again and again, still marveling at its infinity.However, it is a pity that Wang Siren (1574-1646) in the late Ming Dynasty has never been mentioned in all travel albums.This person may not be a great traveler like Xu Xiake, but his high travel enthusiasm and wonderful travel notes are definitely rare in ancient and modern times.His writing style is unrestrained, unimaginable, and passionate, even in modern prose, it can be praised as unique.In the article "Xiaoyang", he said that the mountains are high and the rocks are dense, and the streams are tortuous.His long article "The Story of Yandang Mountain" begins as follows: The first sentence is very interesting, saying that the mountain was a toy of the earth when he was a child, and every scene in the mountain is a sugar figure sold by the dough maker; bonsai and the like.In these two metaphors, the former uses the small to describe the big, and the latter uses the big to describe the small. The term "robbing ash" especially coincides with the volcanic geology of Yandang Mountain. The phrase "falling into the sea" should mean that the remaining veins enter the sea, forming outer islands and harbors. The sentence "see a large pool" explains the origin of the name of Yandang Mountain. "Kangle" refers to Xie Lingyun's title. "Cunzhong" is Shen Kuo's character.Wang Siren's travel note is more than 3,800 characters long, which is rare in ancient times. As for the vivid imagination and suave literary talent, it is even more amazing.Until the end of the article, the author is still not satisfied, and praised this mountain: "I see the cave of Lingfeng, the stronghold of Baiyun, that is, Li Sixun's thoughts for several months, I am afraid that it will not be able to look good. But it is not the cloud, but Hu Yisheng? The cloud is strong like the rain, and the rain is strong. For the waterfall, drink the water to know the source, and help Longqiu to see the grand view. He didn’t have such a powerful person at that time, who would have the arm.” Entering the mountain in the middle of winter, the mountain is like this stone, but the water is not strong, and the magnificence of the waterfall and stream can only be sought in Travel Notes of the Ancients.My Wenzhou masters comforted me: summer can come again. I told my young travel companions in Wenzhou: The name Wenzhou is no stranger in Taiwan. Many streets in the southern district of Taipei City have long been named after Wenzhou and the counties and cities under its jurisdiction, including Ruian Street and Taishun Street.I have quite a few friends from the literary world and schools, all of whom live in the long alleys of Wenzhou Street.Streets such as Qingtian, Lishui, Longquan, and Yongkang are also taken from the neighbors of Wenzhou.As for the prose master Qi Jun, he is well-known on both sides of the Taiwan Strait, and he is a proud fellow of Wenzhou. Wenzhou people are hospitable, and delicious wontons are served at room temperature.I gave a speech at their Federation of Literary and Art Circles, and visited the well-known local Yuexiu Middle School.They took me and my mother and daughter to visit Yongchang Fort, Hair Embroidery, Ou Embroidery, and Ou Sculpture.I pay special tribute to Lin Ti, the "provincial master" of Ou embroidery, and thank her for tattooing the handwriting of my poem "Nostalgia" into Ou embroidery.One day they specially took me to visit the Xie Lingyun ruins "Pond Upstairs", and recited the ancient famous saying "Spring grass grows in the pond, and willows in the garden turn into songbirds". Cake, hibiscus candy, frozen rice candy and other famous pastries. On January 15th, I stopped worshiping the mountains and went to the sea instead.Dongtou County, composed of more than 40 islands, is floating in the East China Sea and waiting for us.The seven-seater SUV boarded the "Lingni North Embankment", with its head facing southeast, and drove across the vast sea at high speed. While competing with the sea for land to fill in to expand the urban area, it planted poles and pulled nets to cultivate the snails and clams. Class, aquaculture seafood.Unexpectedly, Haikuo dike was long, after crossing Niyu and Zhuangyuanao, and crossing many bridges, we arrived at Dongtou Island.Consultant Qiu from the local county government took us up the steep Xiandie Rock overlooking the East China Sea.In the hazy twilight, he pointed to the south, saying that the stretch of Changyu near the sea is also called "Banping Mountain".It is also said that the residents of Dongtou County can speak Hokkien, and they were originally immigrants from Fujian.At this time, the rocks are high and the wind is strong, and the turbid waves are in the sky. It makes people feel overwhelmed by the ends of the earth and the end of the year.In a blink of an eye, the sunset had already set in the evening glow, the host said it was getting late, so he took everyone back to the car and prepared to go to the city for dinner.The car turned with the slope, and I looked back at the familiar sunset, just for a moment, hey, how come the full sun has turned into a crooked moon, missing two thirds, only the golden glow does not change.Surprised, it took five seconds before he came back to his senses. "It's a solar eclipse! Stop the car!" Everyone turned their heads and saw it. They sighed and talked a lot.It just occurred to me that the Wenzhou newspaper had already announced that the annular solar eclipse would start at Ruili, Yunnan at 4:37 p.m. and end at Jiaodong Peninsula at 4:59 p.m. Partial solar eclipse can be seen, even the so-called "eclipse sunset".Sure enough, outside our car window, beyond the clumps of reeds, the bright golden and red "sun hook" fell into the twilight after a few minutes.Think at this moment, whether it is a god or a human being on the moon, they must also see the "eclipse" of the earth, right? Wenzhou is called Ou for short, where the Ou River flows into the sea.There are three large and small islands in the estuary, the innermost one is the smallest, called Jiangxin Islet, facing Lucheng City to the south across the water, and bordering Yongjia County to the north.Wang Siren's travel note "Guyu" said: "In the north of the city of Jiudou Mountain, there is a river pillow called Guyu, which Xie Kangle lives in. The island goes to the city with hundreds of boats. The east and west mountains pass through the ears, and the sea pool is in between. Therefore, the mountain is named Guyu. , and Yushui is also known as Zhongchuan.” The day before we left Wenzhou, the host who accompanied my wife and daughter to Yandang, and Chairman Cao Lingyun of the Federation of Literary and Art Circles, accompanied us on a tour of the island. The weather is still sunny, like a miracle that has lasted for seven days.The pier is waiting to cross, our eyes have already flown over the cold wave, sweeping the topography of the island and the shadow of the tower over and over again.The most eye-catching ones are the east tower and west tower facing each other.The west tower on the left is like a common seven-story pagoda, but the east tower, hey, why is the top not sharp, but has a bulging circle of black shadows instead?Riqian, Guorong, and Meiling chattered and tried to explain that it was the British who built a consulate next to the tower in the early years. They thought the birds on the top of the tower were noisy, so they destroyed the top of the tower. Unexpectedly, birds still came As a result, a banyan tree grew out of the ruined wall, and it became a strange tower. When boarding Jiangxin Island, first of all, climb up the stone slope to explore the reality of the East Tower.Sure enough, it is an empty pagoda, which can be seen through at a glance, and half of the old roots of the illusion are coiled in the void.There are quite a lot of old trees in the lonely island in the middle of the river.There is an old banyan tree on the south bank, no, it should be said that it is an old banyan tree. Not only are there many giant branches branching out from the trunk, but each branch is frost-skinned and copper-boned. Hugged by people, it also clings to the intertwined roots that are thicker than a giant python.The garden specially erected iron fences around it for protection.If a tree can speak, the wind turning its leaves is like turning the pages of a book. It should tell about the vicissitudes of life since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, how Xie Lingyun, Li Bai, Du Fu, and how Wen Tianxiang walked under its shade.There is also a camphor tree in the garden, the main trunk of which is half on the ground, and half of the roots are exposed, but it does not prevent it from sprouting branches and leaves, which has gone through thousands of springs.There is a special wooden sign on its side, indicating that the estimated longevity is more than 1,300 years. There is another surprise when visiting the garden, no, surprise, real surprise, because she is snuggled up in the corner, not showing off, so she is unaware of the far-sightedness, and it is only when she is close that she suddenly realizes that it is the wintersweet!The height of the tree is only three or two feet, and the flower joints are closely interdependent, arranged in three layers, the inner layer is blushing and deep purple, the middle layer is light yellow, and the outer layer radiates into scales, which are oval.Proud to Shuangxue, the colder she is, the more colorful she is, she is really a unique beauty.I kept sniffing closely, and Ji Shan took a close-up photo.I also kissed Xiangze in the past, ah, how reserved and noble, only lightly but self-sufficiently emitting a delicate fragrance.That fragrance easily captures all noses and hearts.Someone in the same travel asked me to sing "Four Rhymes of Nostalgia", and some even hummed it in a low voice. There are many historic sites on the island. In addition to Jiangxin Temple, there are Wenxin Guogong Temple, Haoran Tower, Xiegong Pavilion, Chengxian Pavilion, etc.There are many inscriptions on the wall of Jiangxin Temple. Wang Siren mentioned in "Guyu": "The abbot left the word 'Qinghui' in Gaozong's handwriting, and a coward is a powerful pen." I am most impressed by Wen Tianxiang Temple. In front of the statue in the green robe sitting in mourning and meditation, bowed and retreated.There are many poems and proses in honor of loyal ministers in the temple. What impressed me the most is the two couplets in Qilu written by Qin Ying during the Qianlong period: "I traveled across the mountains and rivers in the south, and the heaven and earth in the Central Plains know the three benevolence. People from Tianheng Island." Xie Lingyun is recognized as the origin of landscape poems, and the landscapes he chanted, such as "Climbing the Pond and Upstairs", "You Nanting", "You Chishi Entering the Sail", "Late Out of Xishetang", etc., are mostly in Wenzhou; "The poem describes Jiangxin Islet.However, in these landscape poems, there is not much weight in travel and scenery, and allusions and discussions are mixed, so it is inevitable to be "separated".Therefore, a sentence like "the lonely island beautifies Zhongchuan, the clouds and the sun reflect each other, and the sky and water are clear and fresh" is already rare.I often feel that Chinese ink and wash paintings are often powerless to deal with the dawn and sunset, and the glistening water; Western landscape paintings, such as Impressionism, have to look to classical Chinese poetry for seeking.