Chapter 9 Travel Chronicles along the Pingsui Route-1

In July of the 23rd year of the Republic of China, at the request of Mr. Shen Chang, director of the Pingsui Railway, a "Travel Group along the Pingsui Railway" was organized. The team members include Ms. Wen Guonai (MissAuAgustaWag-ner), Ms. Lei Jieqiong, and Gu Jiegang first*U coupling Yuren维料针雁独血谷The shape of the coat is like a brain, buttocks, and the hips are far away. N Yi shovel squinting machine which Kang model  Jiqin ⒁ Won suppress Miao Po Kom Tier  even #  lan a  constricted wish  blame peach about boil  mang   kind of value nao pure  skull calcium  horseflyサmou u 妗 N yi qin cloud 璴 落 sticky ⅲ  己杂重层  clam closed 5 huh  weft ⅲ  egg cough captive blink  na  carry ammonia  tour gift  school fly  Guan  Ren  You Yi 0 cough dew   Jia cover Kui Chun 乩 chu  sauce feed fear  tension  Look at the mound   Jue look at the suppression of the tape Hiring Yu  wo 槊 Miao but Α4 chanting brother species value neon ┖ the first prize  yi sheath and  cloud suppressing fat toe off bad kowtow craftsman す 伲  Lun ruthenium and mother line bad copy * travel along the Pingsui line, From my personal point of view, there are some very important points: 1. Since the fall of the Northeast, Chinese people have realized the importance of frontier defense, so they developed the Voice of the Northwest, which became very popular.And where is the Northwest?What is the situation in Northwest China?It is mostly at a loss and does not know the answer, and since the northeast has fallen, the northwest has herded livestock and cultivated it, and it has become the source of wealth for the whole country, and the land, products, and commercial transportation in the northwest are also far away from us.The Pingsui Railway is a channel for people to go to the northwest and goods to come from the northwest. It should be traveled by and investigated by every Chinese.2. Among the earlier Chinese railways, only the Pingsui Railway was planned, surveyed and operated by the Chinese themselves.On the side of the Great Wall at Qinglong Bridge, stands the bronze statue of engineer Zhan Tianyou. This national scientist who fully develops anxiety, deep thinking, persistence and patience should be respected and commemorated by people all over the country, and they should be self-motivated and confident.3. The Pingsui route traverses inside and outside the Great Wall, and the people’s customs and religious beliefs in the cities they pass are different. It is the best field for studying China’s political economy and culture; The old habit of living in seclusion, seeing people as aliens, and seeing outside the Great Wall as a fearful way, we should go far out of the border, open our hearts and sincerely unite with our compatriots of all ethnic groups, so as to jointly resist the invasion of powerful neighbors.4. The scenery along the Ping-Sui Railway is like the majesty of Badaling, the twists and turns of the Yanghe River, and the steepness of Daqing Mountain; the historical sites are like the ancient temples in Datong, the grottoes in Yungang, and the Zhao Temple in Suiyuan. Each has its own beauty and wonder. , each has its historical value.Under the worship, it makes people feel the majesty of the motherland and a sense of childishness. Our ancestors managed it poorly first, so how should our descendants cherish and preserve it and make it flourish!

My own obsession in life is mountains and rivers, especially the mountains and rivers in the north with vast yellow sand.Although it is not magnificent and magical, it is majestic and magnanimous, which washes my mind. I still have a love in my life, which is a character. Because of my frailty and seclusion, I often live an ignorant life. During this six-week journey, I fully enjoyed the unfettered chats with my friends. In addition to receiving all kinds of knowledge, I also met many frontier youths and wild old people along the way.I have heard many anecdotes and anecdotes about wonderful women and good men. My eyes and ears are refreshed, and my heart is clear. My appreciation and gratitude for this trip are too numerous to write.

The gentlemen in the same industry have gained something from their attention points, and they have all been published in the article.What is recorded in this article is only the experiences, impressions, and feelings along the way, and it is written down on a month-day basis, as a small introduction to the articles of the gentlemen.Don't dare to be the first, just like the wedge in the opera, the opening remarks, the supporting role first, just to introduce the central character of the stage. After returning from a trip, I was ill for several months, and as late as today, I will write down what I got a month ago, and collect the works of gentlemen in the same industry, and compile them into a collection to present the road bureau, and express my gratitude!

Prefaced at Yenching University in Pingxi on January 30, 1935. Tsinghua Park is 20.21 kilometers away from Fengtai Station. Height is 40.538 meters. On the morning of July 7th, it was overcast and departed from Tsinghua Park Station at 8:20.In the car, we arrived at Colonel Zhang Xuanze, who was on the same car as us to Suiyuan.We use the official car of Pingsui Road Bureau, sleeping berths, desks, everything you need, and all the equipment is very neat and comfortable.The cook on the dining car claimed to be Liang Yansun's former servant, and when he talked about the past of the family, he seemed to be overwhelmed with emotion.

After arranging the luggage, we had a meeting in the reception room of the car just after passing Shahe Station. Mr. Gu Jiegang assigned the work. Mr. Chen Qitian paid attention to the economic situation along the way, and Ms. Lei Jieqiong the one who paid attention to the religious status. Mr. Zheng Zhenduo, Mr. Gu Jiegang for national history, Wen Zao for Mongolian yurts, Ms. Wen Guonai wrote English guide booklets, Mr. Zhao Cheng was in charge of photography, and I was only responsible for recording the impressions on the way, which was the lightest job. After the distribution is over, everyone chats and laughs casually, reads a book, or leans on the window to look out.The crops on both sides are in the green season, and the fields are spinning beside the car, stretching as far as the eye can see.On the loess path, children sometimes pass by on donkeys, looking very leisurely.Passing Changping Station, you can already see Tianshou Mountain surrounded by the sky from a distance, blocking the sky to the north.In the thirteen mausoleums of the Ming Dynasty, sand spots are generally scattered among the mountains.After passing Nankou Station, it is the location of the road machine factory and material factory.The site of the factory and the residences of the employees form a village of its own.Passing this is Guangou, and the northbound trains have to switch to the mountain road locomotives to push up.The section from Nankou to Kangzhuang is only 30 kilometers long, but the turnaround is steep and steep. The train has to pass through huge ravines, cliffs, rapids, and cliffs.It took four years for Mr. Zhan Tianyou to complete this gigantic project, so that people who travel today can lie down in the hollowed-out and dangerous place.People who have been to Qinglong Bridge often say: "Those who visit Qinglong Bridge and climb the Great Wall will always pursue two great men, one is Qin Shihuang and the other is Zhan Tianyou." In fact, the battlements on Badaling are not the Great Wall of Qin Shihuang's era, but the The railway next to it is the painstaking effort of Mr. Zhan Tianyou.

Qinglongqiao Station is 72.96 kilometers away from Fengtai. The height is 561.137 meters. The extra-large locomotive is slowly moving, and the train is gradually going up the mountain. The green cliffs on both sides are approaching the windows, like a green velvet barrier. , the rotation overlaps.The flock of sheep on the cliff is nomadic, looking up at the small pole, like a bird perched on the top of a tree.Among the flowing springs at the foot of the mountain, there are big stones and Robes, which reminds people of the sentence of the Tang Dynasty: "A river of broken stones is as big as a bucket, and the stones are scattered all over the ground with the wind".

Among the intertwined rocks, there are small trees growing all over the place, as well as mountain fields and people's houses. In the slightly cloudy sky, the layers are dotted far away, which is extremely green and clear.At this time, I suddenly passed through the 385-meter-long cave in Juyongguan. The lights on the car were lit, and smoke was faintly felt between the windows. Five minutes later, it suddenly became clear again, with twists and turns. Tou and the two small caves of Stone Buddha Temple, we arrived at Qinglongqiao Station. Between the minutes of parking and backing up, we got out of the car and took a walk.The sun has already come out, looking up and looking back is in the overlap of Guanshan Mountain, the wonders of the Great Wall are all in front of you!The majestic and thick city walls meander across the mountains like flying dragons, and there are piers every thirty-six feet. It is imagining how the city head resisted the Hu, the flames and candles, and the guards climbed silently all over the mountain. Blood rush!

The layout of the station is quiet, among the mountains and gorge, among the lilac bushes, the dark green bronze statue of Mr. Zhan Tianyou stands majestically, as if quietly watching and appreciating his exhausting work. Get on the bus repeatedly, follow the turning V-shaped route, reverse down, and then enter the 1,145-meter cave in Badaling, which is one of the world's famous giant caves.Passing here is Kangzhuang, suddenly descending to a vast plain, looking back at the undulating Great Wall on Badaling, it is as if in the sky!If we don't go through the "natural danger" of Guangou, we can't pay attention to the meaning of the so-called "bangzhuang road". At this time, we are already outside the Great Wall!

Kangzhuang (84.80 kilometers away from Fengtai, 498.348 meters high) is a large station, where the goods from the northwest are collected.From then on to the north, one can see the flatness, the yellow sand is vast, and the clouds at the end of the day are far away from the trees, which arouses a sense of desolation. At about twelve o'clock, Guohuai came to stand.The city wall spans half of the mountain, and its shape is quite unique.Arrived at Tumubao Station (111.78 kilometers away from Fengtai Station, 533.0955 meters in height) at about one o'clock. It was the 14th year of Zhengtong in the Ming Dynasty (1449 A.D.). place of capture.At the beginning of Jingtai, the deceased courtiers were enshrined in the Xianzhong Temple in the city. There were sixty-six people under Wang Zuo, a civil servant, and Zhang Fu, a military minister.This is a national monument.Except for me, everyone got out of the car and walked into the city.

Our special car unloaded into the side road, I got off by myself, and sat on a big rock in the shade under the car, with the sound of cicadas, and looked at the station wall from a distance, where some people were eating melons to enjoy the shade. Around three o'clock, the people who went there came back one after another, full of hot mouth, and opened a few cans. While eating jackfruit, they reported to me the situation in the city and the Xianzhong Temple. At 5:5, we boarded the train again from Tumubao and set off.Crossing Shacheng—green plum wine is produced here. It is said that Cao Cao and Liu Bei drank it when they were cooking wine and discussing heroes. They were very happy to hear its name and brought a bottle with them on the way home. ——Xinbaoan Xiahuayuan Stations, all the way parallel to the Yanghe River, the water is mighty.Across the river, there are two mountains of Jade Belt, where the temple is faintly exposed.This area is far away from the water and the Cen, which is very fascinating, just like looking at the banners of mountains and rivers.Passing by Xinzhuangzi at six o'clock, having dinner in the car, the dining table is facing the rear window, looking at both sides, there are neat rice fields, with dense willows planted in the fields, and the soft swaying branches, it is actually the flavor of Jiangnan.From the rear window, looking at the track behind the car, there are two rows of weeping willows, which are drawn endlessly. Because Mr. Gu Jiegang recited Mr. Yu Pingbo's sentence "all the way out of Jimen with sorrow", everyone admired his scenery writing work!

On the mountains on both sides of the Yanghe River, moraines are exposed from time to time, like a huge whirlwind, rolling into these hills and mountains, which are extremely smooth and delicate when viewed from a distance.At this time, the childlike innocence suddenly emerged, and I thought to myself that it would be interesting to roll over on the endless fine sand. Among the blue and purple distant mountains and the crimson sunset, we arrived at the end of the Tang Dynasty at 7:50. Xuanhua! Xuanhua is 168.97 kilometers away from Fengtai, and the height is 591.617 meters. At about 8:00 in the morning, take a rickshaw and enter the south gate of Xuanhua, which is Changping Gate.The city was built in the 27th year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1394), and has been rebuilt in successive dynasties.There are stone door gods on both sides of the city gate, and the iron nails on the city gate are all in the shape of bells. On the city wall, there are also stone carvings of Yan Sheng'er and a little monkey holding a stone plate, which he has never seen before.We walked through the city, passed the Bell Tower and Drum Tower and the most prosperous street, and went out of the north gate.The most interesting thing for me along the way is that on the sidewalks on both sides of the avenue, there are stone ditches, and there are small springs in the ditch. Passing by the door of every house, children wash their feet in the ditch, and the little daughter washes clothes in the ditch. , Elegant and elegant, it is also unique in other places.Both men and women in Xuanhua City wear "waist girdles" in the Shengfu, which is the opposite of the "doudu" worn by southerners. The "waist girdle" protects the back, and the "doudu" protects the chest. Going out of the north gate, you can climb the Weiyuan Tower at the top of the city and the Yaowang Pavilion, both of which were built in the Ming Dynasty.Relatively, there is Zhenlu Terrace, which is four feet high, piercing through the hole and going up, looking around the vast expanse.There is a plaque on the platform with the word "Tianyuan". This platform was built in the Jiayin year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty (1554), and there are inscriptions of the Ming Dynasty.The name of the building is "Weiyuan" and the name of the station is "Zhenlu". It can be seen that the Hu people in the Ming Dynasty had already approached Xuanhua. Then go northwest to Longyan Iron Mine.The mine has been abandoned for a long time, and there are only gatekeepers in the office, and unlaid and rusty rails are piled up outside the gate.This mine was established in the tenth year of the Republic of China. It was originally a joint operation initiated by the government and businessmen, and the sand refining site was located in Shijingshan.The mineral quality is very good, and hundreds of tons of iron ore can be produced every day. It is a pity that the current situation is not stable and it has been suspended for a long time.Among the construction projects proposed by the "Northwest Development Association" opened in Zhangjiakou this summer, there is the development of the Longyan Iron Mine. It is hoped that it will be implemented soon. From then on, it goes north, passing melon fields and small forests, wading through a small muddy spring, and then arrives at the foot of Beishan Mountain.There is a Catholic monastery at the foot of the mountain, which is elegant and pleasant.According to the director Yun's surname Wu, there are 60 ascetics in this academy, all of whom are from the northwestern provinces.There is a sacred seat in the lobby, and there are 14 Chinese paintings of the holy relics of Jesus on the four walls, with poems attached, which were made by Chen Jun of Fu Jen Catholic University in Peking. Out of the monastery, stepping on the rocks up the North Mountain.There is Hengshan Temple on the top of the mountain.It is a building of the Ming Dynasty, which has been decadent and has no walls. Only the front hall - Antian Hall - back hall - Zisun Niangniang Temple can still be entered.Looking down at the panoramic view of Xuanhua, it is vivid.There are many vineyards in front of the mountain, and grapes are one of Xuanhua's famous products. Back to the car for lunch, and went back to the city at about 3 o'clock after the meal, and went up to the Zhenshuo Tower in the center of the city. It was originally a Drum Tower, and it was built by Luo Hengxin, the censor of Gengshen (1440) in the Ming Dynasty. Now it is a public education center, and there are still many books. , the order is also good.On the opposite side is Qingyuan Tower, built by Qin Xian, the censor of Renyin (1482) in Chenghua of Ming Dynasty. The second time I went to a mosque at the north gate. There was a primary school in the mosque, and the teacher led the visit. It is said that there are thousands of Muslims in Yuncheng, and the students are all disciples.When looking at the main hall, everyone takes off their shoes and enters. It is clean and dust-free. The red pillars in the hall are erected and glass lamps are hung, which is very beautiful. Then went to Chaoxuanguan in the east of Ganlin Bridge, which was renamed Chaotianguan in the Qing Dynasty because of avoiding the taboo of Kangxi.The army is stationed in the temple, the outer hall has been converted into a practice factory, and the downstairs of the inner hall has also become a storage place. Since then, I went to Yujia Garden in the northwest of the city, also known as Jiechun Garden, which was the other industry of Yuhuan Gong in the Qing Dynasty.It is now barren, but there are still stone carvings on the walls of the Xuan Pavilion, rockery, fish ponds, stone workshops, and small bridges. The layout is exquisite, which shows the ingenuity of the time.In the peony column, there is nothing left to see. A craftsman by the small bridge is cutting down an ancient cypress, and there are children watching and laughing. It seems that there is no sense of prosperity and decline! From Jiechun Garden to the second normal school at Huxi Bridge, that is, the ancient Amitabha Temple. The so-called "Amitabha first and then Xuanhua" is located here.The Mituo Temple was originally built in the Yuan Dynasty and has been rebuilt in successive dynasties. Today, there is nothing left of the temple. Only in the north of the playground, under the small thatched pavilion, stands a tall bronze Buddha, about two feet high, heavy. More than 4,000 catties were made in Xuande period of Ming Dynasty (1426). According to Zhang Jun, the principal of the Second Normal School, there were some treasures in the belly of the Bronze Buddha and banknotes of the Yuan Dynasty, all of which were robbed by soldiers. The few remaining banknotes were transported to Baoding for display in the era of Cao Kun in the early Republic of China, but have not been transported back yet. It's gone now. There are several grapes in the campus, which are more than 60 years old.The knotting method of the grape trellis is like an upside-down umbrella, with the umbrella handle facing upwards, so that each branch and leaf can receive the sunlight, which is what gardeners should imitate. Leave Xuanhua at 7:20 p.m. and arrive in Zhangjiakou at 8:30 p.m. Zhangjiakou is 201.20 kilometers away from Fengtai Station, and the altitude is 742.198 meters. At 8:00 in the morning, I took a provincial government bus to leave the station and exit Dajingmen to Yuanbaoshan.There are four characters of "Da Hao He Shan" written by Gao Weiyue on the Dajing Gate.Going out to Xigou, surrounded by overlapping mountains and peaks, the Yuanbao Mountain at the northwest gateway is already in front of you, with two peaks facing each other, the weather is majestic, the bullock carts are passing through the mountain, and the farsightedness is as small as an ant!This road is to Kulun Kongdao, and there is a winding spring at the foot of the mountain, where many drivers unload cattle and drink horses.Standing here and looking around, you can see everywhere the old traces of the prosperity of the frontier trade in those days. The store signs are all in Han, Mongolian and Tibetan languages.Zhangjiakou originally belonged to Wanquan County, Zhili, and Dushikou and Gubeikou are known as the Three Passes Beyond the Great Wall.Since the seventeenth year of the Republic of China, it was changed to a province and became the provincial capital.This place is connected to Liaoyi in the east, Guisui in the west, Jingu in the south, and Kulun in the north. It is a major hub for inland border entry.The bulk of its trade is fur, livestock, tea, and cloth.Outer Mongolia became independent in the twelfth year of the Republic of China, and the trade between Han and Mongolia was cut off.The prosperity of Zhangjiakou has been greatly reduced, and there has been talk of Sino-Russian trade recently. When will it be implemented without trial? When we saw oxen driving carts, we were very surprised. In our imagination, we always thought that the traffic outside the Great Wall was all borrowed from camels.The system of the ox cart is also very ancient and clumsy, the most primitive type of double cross axle, rolling slowly, the long road, people and animals are very pitiful! After the heavy rain, you can't go to the lone stone outside the door. Looking at the overflowing river from a distance, there is a human-shaped stone standing, because it is far away to take a picture. Since then, it has gone up to Ci'er Mountain again, and the car road is newly built, which is extremely flat.Winding up, the panoramic view of Zhangjiakou unfolds in front of you.There is Yunquan Temple on the top of Ci'er Mountain, where there are many plaques and couplets dedicated to descendants and empresses.It is under repair, and it is rejuvenated.The halls are winding along the hills, with tiers of curved couplets, and the column heads are all carved in stone with various offerings and fruits, which are extremely beautiful.There are two water and ice caves under the main hall. There is no ice in the ice cave, and the water cave is also dry.According to these two caves, they were originally the two springs of "Fengyu" and "Yufanzhu". I don't know if the spring water can flow again after the reconstruction. Going down the mountain, with Mr. Chen Qitian as the host, have lunch at Dingfeng Building in the city.There are mushrooms in the dish, which is a famous product of this place, and the taste is very clear and delicious. Returning to the car, it was very hot, and went out again at 3:00 in the afternoon. This time, we parted ways. Mr. Zhang Xuanze, Mr. Chen Qitian, Ms. Wen Guonai, Ms. Lei Jieqiong and Wen Zao visited Dehua foreign company, which operates Sino-Mongolian trade, and Switzerland church.Mr. Gu Jiegang, Mr. Zheng Zhenduo, Mr. Zhao Cheng and I went to the park via Qinghe Bridge.The park has pools, trees, some cages for birds and animals, and wooden signs with aphorisms and pictures of ethnic stories. Everything is still clean. When you go out, you will go to Chaoyang Cave on the west high cliff in Dajingmen, also known as Dizang Temple.The appearance is small, and you go up the stairs, first to the main hall.The monk came out to greet us, wearing cotton trousers in the hot summer, we were surprised, when the door of the temple was opened, the air-conditioning invaded, and the hot sweat disappeared.Stories are engraved all over the cliff on the top floor of the hall, and the characters are very small and cute.The coiled dragon on the pillars of the temple is also the same as the one in Yunquan Temple, with its coiled dragons grasping in the air and its scales vivid.Next to it is the Cangshen Temple, etc., all of which have been used as a place to invite immortals to support the spirits, and there are many photos of Lu Xian and others in appearance, I want to see the prosperity of this wind at that time. After leaving the temple, the sun has set, the cool wind is blowing, and the yellow sand is flying. In the confusion, I took a bus to Shangbao, which is Xinbao, also known as "Laiyuanbao". city ​​circle.It is a horse market in the Ming Dynasty, built in the 41st year of Wanli (1613), and it is the place for the Hanmeng Exchange.The size of the circle. It is like a small rectangular town, with a stage to the north and small houses on both sides. It was originally a market, but now the army is stationed.Going up through the levels, the second temple of Guanyue, the statue of Emperor Guan riding a red rabbit horse, is very magnificent.The stage is used to entertain merchants, and the Guanyue Temple is used to deter people from afar, which is a testament to the painstaking efforts of the predecessors.In the fort, there is Shen Wanheng's "New City Laiyuan Fort Inscription Stone Record" in the forty-fourth year of Wanli (1616). Go out of the upper castle, pass through the old city gate, and enter the lower castle, which is the old castle, also known as "Zhangjiakou Fort". built.There is the Yuhuang Pavilion on the city wall, and when we climbed it, we could see the lights of Seoul and the battlements all over the mountain. We thought that worshiping the gods was an excuse, and watching the enemy's situation was the original intention of building the pavilion. Returning through Yi'an Market, it is as big as the Longfu Temple Huguo Temple Fair in Beiping, and there is no one to be disciplined. The newly built roads in Zhangjiakou and the Qinghe Bridge crossing the upper and lower forts are very neat and magnificent, and the bustling market has a Shanghai flavor, which was beyond imagination at the time.The inscriptions "lively" and "yujinchu" on the entrance of the old house are roughly like the words "Ningxiang" on the screen wall in Guannei. Later, the same inscription was also common in Suiyuan, Datong. Back to dinner, heavy rain in the night. Datong is 383.15 kilometers away from Fengtai Station, at an altitude of 1,050.036 meters. At 6:20 in the morning, the Yinshan Mountains stand on the left side of the road from Zhangjiakou in the rain, and the muddy water of the Yang River flows on the right. Overcast clouds embrace the mountainside, and the mountains, rivers, clouds and trees are reflected for a while. Mr. Gu Jiegang said that this scene is as big as looking at the hand scrolls of Minangong Mountains and Waters, and he believes it! Arrive in Datong at 1:30 in the afternoon. Datong was the former capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty. Emperor Wu built his ancestral temple here in Tianxingzhong (397-403), and it was the most important place in the north of the Great Wall.There are great buildings in all ages, and there are so many historic sites, we have been fascinated for a long time.The ground is wet today, so I can't travel long distances. I only read books and talked in the car for half a day, and went to the station to see Datong's famous products, casserole and copperware. At 9 o'clock in the morning on the 11th, I set off into the city by car of the cavalry headquarters. The road outside the city was still flat, but the inside of the city was extremely muddy, and driving was very difficult.First go to Yanghe Street in the center of the city, that is, Nine Dragon Wall on Huanglu Street.According to the Nine Dragon Wall, it was originally the screen wall of the palace of the Ming Dynasty, and it was built in the ninth year of Hongwu (1376).Today the Wangfu has been changed into Xuandu Temple. This wall is on the street, and the gate is opened to enter. Looking up, you can see that the wall is about five feet high and twenty feet wide. There are nine big dragons embedded on it, which are made of glazed bricks. Countless, with different postures, it is said that there are a total of 1,380 dragons, big and small.There is a small pond in front of the wall, and next to it are inscriptions rebuilt in various generations of Qianlong and Jiaqing. The second time I went to Dahuayan Temple, which is located in the west of Qingyuan Street, commonly known as Shangsi.It was built in the seventh year of Liao Chongxi (1038).In the eighth year of Qingning (1062), an additional building was added to enshrine the bronze and stone statues of the emperors.In the third year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1371), it was changed to Dayoucang, where Buddha statues were enshrined.It has been damaged. When you enter the temple, you can look around in desolation. On the couplets in the main hall, birds and pigeons are flying, and the paint is peeling off.Go up to the stage, unlock the lock and enter the hall, the sun shines in, staring carefully, the four walls are full of murals of Buddhist stories, the workmanship is extremely detailed, the gold lacquer is still very new, it was probably decorated in the Qing Dynasty, there is a word cloud on the left side of the north wall near the door "West Street of Bell Tower in Yunzhong, Xing Rongkui Painter Dong An", and on the right side of the north wall are the words "Confidence Disciple Painter Dong An".Dong An doesn't know who he is, and his handwriting is also bad. It seems that he only does some repair work. The hall is extremely tall, with a simple structure, and the Buddha statues are very beautiful, with long eyes, straight nose, broad shoulders and thin waist, which are extremely solemn and kind; the five Buddhas in the middle are: Nan Baosheng, Xi Mituo, Zhongsanglu, Dong Amenzhong, and Beicheng sat cross-legged with their eyes downcast and their palms folded. There were attendants in front of each seat, and behind them *partridge mothers 刂wu城雀鸠* went out to the temple , the next street is Xiahuayan Temple.The two temples were originally connected, but were broken into two in the Ming Dynasty.There are troops stationed outside the lower temple, and there is a newly built lecture hall. The main hall is smaller than the upper temple, and it is the place where scriptures are stored. .There are still paintings and scriptures in the cabinet, but none of them are antiques of the Jin and Yuan Dynasties.There are dozens of Buddha statues, and they are also extremely beautiful. It is a pity that the statue of Guan Sheng sitting in front of the Buddha was worshiped by soldiers. Returning to the car for lunch, I knew that the driveway to Yungang had been repaired by engineers, and I set off for Yungang again in the afternoon. Yungang is thirty miles west of Datong City. Yungang Castle in Wuzhou Mountain, when the Northern Wei Dynasty established its capital at the same time, Yungang approached the capital of Wei, and the mountains and rocks were good. The carving of Yungang Grottoes began in 1945 (453), and "Wei Zhi" stated that the Yungang stone carvings began in Xing'an (453) and ended in Taihe (499) for a total of 46 years.Jijian Tongsheng, Lingguang, Zhenguo, Huguo, Tongzi, Nengren, Huayan, Tiangong, and Tushita ten temples.In the Yuan Dynasty, 20 stone Buddha niches were built. Today, there are only a few caves whose names can be tested, such as Wufo Cave, Bixia Cave, Folai Cave, etc. The names are still engraved on the cliff. Mr. Zheng Zhenduo, who traveled with him, has more detailed records about the construction age of the Yungang Grottoes, the order of the number of the grottoes, and the architectural form. At the same time, Chinese and foreign books and papers about Yungang include: Wang Yaocheng: Travel Notes of Datong "Journal of Earth Science", Issue 11, 6th Year, Yuan Xitao: Records of Buddha Statues at Yungang Grottoes, Issue 3, Issue 3, "Journal of Earth Science", Issue 3, Year 11, Zhao Bangyan: Investigation of Yungang Statues, Issue 11, National Academy of History and Language Research Institute Bulletin Chen Yuan: Records of Datong Wuzhou Mountain Grotto Temple "Oriental Magazine" Volume 2, Number 3, Liang Sicheng, Lin Huiyin: The Architecture of the Northern Wei Dynasty as Expressed in Yungang Grottoes Reciprocity: Detailed Records of Yungang Grottoes in Datong "Beijing News Pictorial" May 21st (draft deposited in China Construction Society) Matsumoto Saburo: Statue of Yungang "Toyo Art News" Eleventh Year Chuta Ito: Northern Qing Architecture Survey Report "Architectural Magazine" No. 189, etc. can be referred to, and I only remember the impressions and impressions of this trip. Departing from Datong Station, there is also Mr. He Weinan, the head of the Datong bus service section, in the same company. Along the muddy and bumpy mountain road, the car drove slowly towards Wuzhou Mountain. Along the way, it walked along the Wuzhou River. The river was turbid and turbulent.Wuli Xu arrived at the Guanyin Hall, which is a small temple. There are three dragon walls in front of the temple, which are slightly like the nine dragon walls in the city.There is a bridge hole at the head of the temple gate, for those who are prepared to pass through the mountains and rivers, the forehead of the hole is called "Chaoyin".Entering the temple on the upper steps, there are also troops stationed in the temple. The bedding of soldiers is arranged vertically and horizontally in the main hall. Only the eyes of the statue are covered with yellow paper to avoid inconvenience. It is very interesting.The battalion commander, surnamed Wu, entertained us for tea, and pointed out to the Han Ma Wu Village on the top of the mountain, which is said to be the place where Xiao Xiao gathered when Ma Wu was a bandit.Battalion Commander Wu smiled and said to us again: "It's very quiet here, only water and wolves are heard at night." I suddenly felt that these words were very poetic! After another twenty-five miles of zigzagging, the car crossed the Wuzhou River twice, and the caves and temple buildings in Yungang and the shoulders of the giant Buddha were already in front of us. The car stopped at the east side of the ancient Shifo Temple, at the gate of the villa of Mr. Zhao Chengshou, commander of the Shanxi cavalry.During our trip to Yungang, Commander Zhao saw that his newly built Yungang villa was our place to stay. Commander Zhao and his wife were both in the villa that day, and they had a great time seeing each other.I hurriedly arranged the bedding, and I rested for a while. The fellow travelers couldn't wait, and they all went to the grottoes to visit the divine work thousands and five hundred years ago. At six o'clock in the evening, Commander Zhao hosted a banquet to clean up the dust for us, and we all went to the banquet in full suit. During the meeting, we talked about the problem of animal husbandry and land reclamation in Northwest China. Everyone was very interested in mentioning Wang Tongchun, a national hero who developed Hetao. Commander Zhao went back to the city after dinner.We walked out of the villa and headed eastward, and entered the first cave in the east of the villa. The rustic smell touched our nostrils, and the people shone with a bunch of incense, and the crows and pigeons were startled and flew out from the top of us.Under the twilight and confusion in the cave, I paid homage to the first statue of Yungang!One of the sitting Buddhas in the middle is about six feet high, and there are two big Buddhas standing beside him. Below the waist, it has already been worn out. , I can't seem to feel anything. Going around behind the Buddha, the cave is darker, the ground is wetter, and the walls are covered with traces of water and wind, and the carvings are very blurred. I fumbled out of the cave, amidst the sound of deep footsteps, for some reason, I suddenly remembered " The novel "Anatomy of the Egyptian Pyramids"! Going further east, passing through another hole, half of which was sealed with mud, Mr. Gu Jiegang pointed out that this is Liu Xiaobiao's scripture translation building. Can't enter, and walked through several holes, or sealed or opened, some of the stone statues of the opener were peeled off, or incomplete, and they were knocked down and sold by pirates.But among the tens of feet high cliffs and in countless caves and niches, there are still thousands of Buddhas, big and small, sitting and standing, each with its own uniqueness.The sunset was dark in the sky, and the cool wind was blowing everywhere. I couldn't stay in the cave any longer. I walked out of the cave with my arms around my shoulders. On the way home, I suddenly felt confused and trembling.Cold in the cave?Or is it a weak soul, crushed by the great sense of beauty, feeling that this body has nothing to support in the dusk? When we came back, we added clothes and sat around the pavilion of the villa, and talked about the story of Hetao. We heard the sound of drums and music from the foot of the mountain, saying that it was someone getting married. Mr. Zheng Zhenduo and others all went to visit. On the morning of the 12th, the sun was fine and the sun was very good. Everyone was refreshed. After breakfast, they set off together. From the villa to the west, they entered the Shifo Temple. After five or six feet, climbed up to a four-story building outside the cave, and passed a two-slab cross bridge before arriving at the seat of the Buddha.The cave is as wide as a huge mansion, surrounded by beautiful walls, all of which are small Buddha statues with new colors. It is the place where monks burn incense every day, but it is not as cute as other caves. Go west out of the temple gate, to Xilai First Mountain, Folai Cave, Wufo Cave, etc.The stone carvings in the caves in the middle section are the most complete, protected by temples and protected from wind and sun.Since then, all the caves in the west have been reduced to residential buildings, separated by earthen walls, and only by knocking on the door can one get a glimpse of it.The Buddha statue in the seventh cave is the most magnificent in the whole mountain.The statue is seated, the lotus pedestal has been submerged in the soil, and the nobles standing on both sides are also solemnly exposed under the sky. Going west from the big Buddha statue, you still pass through more than ten caves, which are either sealed or opened. The size of the Buddha statues, sitting, standing, leaning, postures, and patterns of birds and animals on the top of the caves are all different in style, and some are unfinished.In total, there are ninety-five caves of all sizes on the stone walls of the whole mountain.The Buddha statues are about seventy feet tall, fifty or sixty feet taller, and smaller by an inch or so.Each grotto is more than 200 feet high and can accommodate more than 3,000 people in the wide one.Trillions of incarnations, carved all over the mountain, uncanny workmanship, horrifying.Just like the Tathagata, there is a world, a wing, a hoof, a flower, and a leaf, each of which has its own essence. It is impossible to write and paint.Looking back is boundless nostalgia, and looking ahead arouses endless longing, eyes cannot be focused, feet cannot be stopped, like a thief suddenly entering a treasure house, the soul is lost, no one knows what to carry, recalling afterwards is like dreaming into the heavenly palace, and the heart knows itself after waking up But the mouth can't speak, and then you know the uselessness of words! Walk into the cave, go back from Yungang Fort at the foot of the mountain, enter Huaiyuan, and enter the second gate of Yingxi.Beside the Fort Nei Road are full of folk houses, and there are "retaining people's shops".There is a temple named Bixia Palace facing south in the middle of the title, and there is a stage on the opposite side, which is also a Ming Dynasty building. Take a short break after lunch, and go up the mountain along the monk ditch east of the villa at around 4:00 pm. There are fields on the mountain, and there are three monk graves from the Ming Wanli Qing Kangxi era.Going westward, you walk into an earthen city, known as Yungang Shangbao, where soldiers were stationed in the Ming Dynasty, and it has been reduced to fields today.Going further west to the top of Yungang Mountain, there is the Yuhuang Pavilion, the doors and windows are broken, and there is no one there.Look at the inscription on the clock, which was cast in the last year of Ming Chongzhen (1644). When the bell first rings, Guozuo has been changed!On July 13th, Yungang was around 9 o'clock in the morning, and it was slightly cloudy. Because I planned to return to Datong in the afternoon, I went to explore various caves again, as a parting attachment.First go west to the end of the mountain, then come back east and walk along the river bank, pass Liu Song and Liu Xiaobiao's translation of scriptures, deep in Heyun, the carved stone at the junction of Zuoyun, and go to the end of the river bank, where the cliff stands steeply and overlooks the turbidity. , Take a short rest and return. In the afternoon, the inspector of Yungang and the village head of Baozhong led dozens of civilians to open several caves on the east side, so that we could have a glimpse or two, and only one part of the wall was broken. We climbed up the ladder, and only saw a hole in the grotto, Hanquan, with stone pillars in it. Standing tall, with Buddha statues engraved on it, and spring water flowing underground.The rest of the caves are in a hurry, because they stop and don't come out. At 4:00 p.m., we returned to Datong by car.When we passed Guanyin Hall again, the cloud had already closed, and the heavy rain came suddenly!Fifteen minutes later, it cleared up again.Surrounded by mountains, mountain torrents are rushing around, competing with vehicles for the road. The torrent is surging, pouring down along the valley, and crossing the mountain road like a waterfall.The sandy banks by the river were washed away by the water, collapsed one after another, and drifted away with the current.We stopped by a bridge for 20 minutes, and waited until the water gradually receded before wading across it.Since then, the journey has been like riding in a car in Hanoi, with water splashing all the way to the bottom of the city. Shanxi is surrounded by mountains, and a little rain can cause trouble for a long time. This is also the reason why we saw statues of bronze bulls in Zhenshui when we traveled around. It was dusk when we got back to the station, and when we got on the special car, we were as happy as returning home.After a short rest, go to the city to have dinner at "Xinghuachun" and taste the taste of Fenjiu.After the meal, Commander Zhao invited everyone to watch a movie at the Electric Lamp Company, which was taken by Russian technicians in the camp. May. Kouquan Town is 9.81 kilometers away from Datong, and the altitude is 1079.602 meters. Take a rest in the car in the morning, and visit the coal mines in Kouquan Town at 2 o'clock in the afternoon.Reading geography since I was a child, I know that the mountains and Tibet are rich in coal in the world, and I am eager to see the real situation.At the same time, I have visited Mentougou thirteen years ago, and I don't remember much about the situation in the coal mine. I really want to explore this "dark" underground life. Between Datong and Kouquan, the road bridge was broken by mountain torrents, got off the bus and walked, crossed the bridge, changed to Kouquan Station, was picked up by Lu Jun, an engineer in the mine, and took a small train from Jinbei Mining Bureau to Yongding Village. Huge chunks of coal have been seen along the way, neatly piled up beside the track.Doors and windows can be seen from time to time in the caves on both sides, which are the dwellings of cave workers. The soil here is extremely sticky, and the caves are not in danger of collapsing. Jinbei Mining Bureau is a semi-Western house with office, library and other facilities.From the back window of the reception room, I saw the workers' club on the hill behind. Some dark-faced workers sat and stood at the door.Jinbei Mining Bureau was established in the 18th year of the Republic of China, and was reorganized into a public-business joint stock company at the end of 21st year.There are two coal mines in Meiyu and Yongdingzhuang in the mining area. Both of them use new methods to dig many horizontal flat holes, each of which is 100 feet, that is, a wind tunnel is opened.Up and down with a crane.There are various equipment for drainage and ventilation in the mine.The workers used the contract system, but in October 2000 it was changed to the local work system, that is, there were work cards in the bureau, which were collected by the workers themselves, and they went to the underground office to be registered by the foreman, and they worked separately.Workers are divided into three shifts day and night, each shift is eight hours.There are currently more than 3,000 workers in the mine, and the daily coal output should have been 2,000 tons. Recently, due to poor sales, only 600 to 700 tons are mined per day. It rained again at three o'clock, and the mountain torrent behind the house was like thunder. We had lunch at the Mining Bureau, and it was nearly four o'clock before we packed up and left the mine. There was a young foreman leading us.We all put on thick blue suits, wicker hats, overshoes, spotlights, and sticks, and descended from the crane at the wellhead into the mine. The structure of the crane is like an elevator. In the darkness, we all huddled together, and we could only hear the sound of water dripping from all sides of the well wall. The hot tide was hot, and the steam water flowed from the iron sill of the crane to our arms and sleeves. Inside, it's uncomfortably wet.The crane descended erratically in the darkness, and suddenly the fuselage shook slightly, then stopped, and reached a depth of 300 feet underground. 睁开眼，借着手灯的微光，我们俯身鱼贯的在六尺至八尺宽的圆洞中进行。洞顶都用很粗的木柱支撑着，洞壁闪烁着黝黑的光。地下流着又湿又热的泥水，洞中流转的是沉重闷热的蒸汽，顶壁间还不住的落下水点。我们稍一抬头便要碰着顶壁，这时才知柳条帽的用处。 地道里的小仄轨上，不时急速的隆隆地走过煤车，有黧黑褴褛的工人，伛偻的推着，从我们身旁挤过。这样气也不出的俯身曲折的走了半天，才到一处修理器械的中心，这里周围稍为宽阔，炽着熊熊的煤火，几个工人，在那里打铁，还有几个童工在等着传递，见我们露齿而笑，目光闪闪。这里因着生火的缘故，空气更为窒闷。过此便是升降机的发动处，机声隆隆，有几个工人在扳着机闸，洞顶安着电灯。 出此又到开采的地方，有许多工人，着力的用铁锄向着壁上一下一下的掘，煤屑飞溅。 落下的大块，便有人捡起，掇上煤车推了出去。 出矿已过六时，重见傍晚的阳光，重吸着爽晴的空气时，我们心中都有说不出的悲恻和惭愧。大家脱去蓝衣，发现彼此的内衣上满了黑灰，鼻孔和耳窍也都充塞着黑垢时，那年青精悍的工头，傲然的微笑道：“我们连肚里都是煤屑呢！”我默然！ 回大同已七时许，晚赴贺渭南段长的晚餐，菜极丰美。 晨十时，坐人力车至南门边的南寺，建筑宏伟，而门外荒芜污秽，门内石碑亦湮没倾侧。最古的为金皇统三年（一一四三年）朱弁撰，大定十三年（一一七三年）三纲寺沙门惠烛立的“大金西京大普恩寺重修大殿记”碑，内有云“辽末以来，再罹烽烬，……所仅存者十不三四。”此外又有金明昌（一一九○年——一一九五年）明万历（一五七三年——一六一九年）崇祯（一六二八年——一六四四年）清乾隆（一七三六年——一七九五年）诸碑，乾隆的碑上云“始于唐玄宗元年间名之曰开元寺”（七一三年——七四一年），“正统中更名善化寺”（一四三六年——一四四九年），是此寺自唐至明已三易名了。 自大门入，外殿有佛像三座，并有尊者侍立，长眉垂目，极其端妙。座前已无香火，长案前亦无供具。正殿上有坐佛五尊，两旁立像共二十四尊，姿态都极生动。壁画则仅存西墙一扇，尘土蒙满，略加拂拭，底下金漆不落，似是明代作品。 佛座前供着铜花瓶，小炉中也上着香，是冷落中的一丝点缀。在殿前遇着一位老和尚来上香，态度闲雅。和他谈起，知道是寺中住持，四川梁山人，俗名苏德华，法名妙道，二十岁出家，到大同已十九年。他发过愿，斫指燃灯，蘸指血写经，十余年中已斫去五指，而经文尚未写完。观之肃然！问他出家缘由，只微微的笑叹说：“在家无甚意味——”谈吐间又知他家有继母，少失父欢，恐总是家庭之变也。 大殿前钟亭中悬大钟一，明天顺五年（一四六一年）成都僧道中所铸，重三千三百三十三斤，亦古物之一。 自此出寺，又出城东门，文雷二女士和我共乘骡车，余人则由人背负而过，涉御河到曹福祠。曹福即旧剧《南天门》义仆，相传为明代故事，据说曹福一路护送他的女公子，备尝艰苦，到此冻死雪中，土人因立祠，供为土地神。庙本名玄都观，供着三清，那天正有庙会，茶座上很热闹。曹福祠在偏殿上，小小的三间，中间是曹福像，两壁都画着曹福和他的女公子，一路的风波惊险，画工甚劣。 登庙后小楼远望，西五里有曹福村，亦是汉高祖被匈奴围困之地。庙的四围都栽着杨柳，隔水遥望，葱茏可爱进城又到久胜楼，在城内酒楼巷，今已改为长胜楼，传说是明武宗（一五○六年——一五二一年）和卖酒的李凤姐初见之地。店主孟姓。我再四的盘问店伙“孟姓以前谁是店主？”追溯三四姓，亦无姓李的，大约是店伙亦不知道了。——不过旧剧中的《游龙戏凤》，对饮对唱有声有色，居庸关上也有李凤姐墓，墓上长着白草，似乎李凤姐又实有其人。 次到天王庙，本以为是辽萧太后的梳妆台，入庙遍寻不见，建筑甚新，无可纪者。 下午在车中休息，夜十时离大同，十二时抵丰镇，至此已入绥远境了。 丰镇距丰台站四二八·一○公里高度一一八四·一四八公尺晨七时许，闻平绥路局长沈昌先生快车停此，将往卓资山视察铁路冲断处。隔窗匆匆招呼，听说刘半农先生，到百灵庙考察方言，得病回平，不治而逝。闻讯之下，大家惊悼！ 十时出发游丰镇城，此地无处觅代步，大家步行。先到文庙，系清代建筑，也有泮宫和牌楼。两廊已改为民众教育馆。正殿上供孔子牌位，两旁有陪祀的子弟。殿柱的础石，刻作石鼓形，别致可喜。 自此往东北行，到城外灵岩寺。途中经过城隍庙，大仙庙等，均狭小无可观。 灵岩寺在城之东北，负山面水。下层为牛王庙，上层为大仙祠，石阶曲折，共九十九级，上至山巅。阶旁有石棋杆数十对，左右丧峙。 下午在车中休息，傍晚出看兵士晚操，午夜车开平地泉。