Chapter 47 Fully Congested Steak

In the eyes of haters of western food, steak is the prime offender, just like the hatred between countries and families for more than a hundred years must start from the Old Summer Palace. The incompatibility of steak with the Han diet is comprehensive and disastrous.Roland Barthes reveals the original code of the steak: "Belonging to the myth of joy, it is the essence of meat and the pure form of meat. The superiority of the steak obviously comes from its pseudo-raw nature. In the steak, the blood is visible , natural, tight...totally engorged is the steak's argument." Pure form, with blood, although it is only a "pseudo nature", it is exactly processed by technology (deep cultural content), impure, non-primitive, enlightened, non-bloody, eleven mature The key to the rejection of the Han nationality's catering.Just as foreigners who do not know Chinese characters and Chinese ethics were once called "students", otherwise they were called "cooked fans".However, even a mature "cooked fan" like Lang Shining would inevitably design the bull's horns in the Yuanmingyuan into a Spanish bullfight-style spiral forward curve, which is different from the uniform upwards of the Chinese bull's horns.

There was an article in the monthly magazine that said, "On the side of beef, there is a piece of fishy fish in a lonely white porcelain basin. It is not pleasing to the eye at first, so why eat it?" The words reveal the mystery of the difference between Yi and Xia: "One side" is not the mainstream form of Chinese meat.The French classic steak is named after Chateaubriand. In China, Su Dongpo, who is also a politician, writer and gourmet, has a large volume of "Dongpo Meat".It's just that China's so-called eating meat in large chunks is usually an anti-system behavior, with a more or less rampant style.

An American restaurant in Guangzhou is selling authentic American Angus sirloin steak, grilled on volcanic stone.Although it weighed only eight ounces, it still belonged to the choice grade (choice) formulated by the US Farm Bureau. Unexpectedly, the bloody lump that was served was cut into strips first.Of course, this kind of thing is out of the hands of the American Farm Bureau. Secondly, "solitary" refers to the fact that the steak has not left more room for Chinese chefs in cooking.In fact, all graded steaks only need to be placed in a frying pan and fried alone according to personal preference, without any condiments, in order to obtain the purity of the gravy.The ancients have already understood the unsociable personality of beef, so only one beef dish was recorded, and they did not forget to add it earnestly: "This is too firm and lonely, so you can't add other things to match it." From this point of view, "goulash" does have a revisionist tendency.

Meatballs are the most common form of Chinese-style beef. Although the ingredients of the beef are still "pure", it is a pity that the shape has been highly mutated, from "rows" to "balls". This kind of repeated pounding of beef is not due to the deliberate pursuit of "impure morphological" subjectively. In my opinion, it is mainly a technical remedy for bad meat quality, which seeks elasticity without taste. and also. As for the Sichuan "Dengying Beef" as thin as a sheet of paper, it not only completes the "non-block" treatment of the steak because of its lightness, but also soaks in more than ten kinds of mixed spices such as cloves, fennel, cinnamon, sesame oil, and pepper powder. Next, there is no blood at all.Although traditional medicine still pays attention to the role of yellow beef in nourishing "post-weather blood", blood is still not our ideal meat.The words and deeds of Cantonese sometimes make mainlanders feel that they are "fan", which may have something to do with the bloody white-cut chicken of Cantonese.The hunger for meat and the thirst for blood can only be unpaid ambitions, and there is no hidden connection between steak and the Old Summer Palace.

Cattle on the earth are nothing more than Indian and European. The major difference between cattle and cattle is more reflected when a cow is regarded as beef. Cattle are the second of the six animals, but China has never had a tradition of eating cattle. There are many reasons for this. For example, cattle were high-level sacrificial objects used by the ruling class in the pre-Qin Dynasty, which once formed the worship and monopoly of cattle; What King Xuan of Qi saw that day and what Mencius borrowed when he promoted the "art of benevolence" happened to be cattle. China has never formed a "bull market".

Cattle are not picked at random, which is the difference between farming and animal husbandry, that is, small cattle herding and large cattle raising.For example, although cow A and cow B both graze on different hillsides, cow B is the tool of production and cow A is the product itself.Sharpening knives to pigs and sheep and slaughtering draft cattle are double crimes of destroying production and corrupting morality.Hakka ethnic groups in Fujian and Taiwan still have the custom of not eating beef.Cows and dogs were not only omitted from Li Yu's food list "with the intention of exchanging sheep for cattle", but also specifically stated that these two things "have contributed to the world, and it is too late to persuade people to stop them, and they can bear to be tortured for them." .

The hero cannot be killed, and it is inconvenient to cut it. The highly heterogeneous steak is more likely to become a symbol of "Western style" in China than other Western food.For the promotion of "In the Mood for Love", a "In the Mood for Love Dinner" completely customized according to the scene of the movie was launched in Hong Kong. Anyone who remembers the scene of Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung eating steak must have a "dinner" in this "dinner". Mrs. Zhou's steak" replied with a knowing smile.Eating steak is called "saw row" in Cantonese. Although the emphasis seems to be only instrumental, after all, it was once the most western-valued romantic activity in the minds of Hong Kong people. Of course, it has been baptized with sauce.This kind of Hong Kong-style steak (currently very popular in Guangzhou) has been marinated deeply. It is ridiculous that the waiter will routinely ask "how ripe it is".

But culture is not absolute.The Japanese did not eat cows in the past, especially since the prevalence of Buddhism, the emperors of all dynasties have banned meat.It was not until the fifth year of Meiji that the 1,200-year-old "meat ban" inherited from the Tokugawa family was lifted because of the need for Westernization.However, this Westernization turned Japanese cattle into the best and most expensive beef in the world after World War II. Japanese "Wagyu" is produced by mating Indian cattle imported from China with European-born "John Bull".Its "cramming" feeding includes walking for 20 minutes every day, drinking beer, massaging with sake, listening to music, and so on.This is not raising cattle, it is raising beef.The meat obtained has fine and uniform fat fibers, and the snow-white marble-like fine lines are evenly densely distributed among the bright red flesh.

Of course, it does not mean that Zhiweixin has the meaty texture of steak, but Kobe, as the origin of top-quality beef, happens to be Japan's gateway to the West.It is also said that the Germans who were the best cattle breeders in Europe established their ancestral business there after occupying Qingdao. After the alliance between Germany and Japan, these high-quality cattle breeds were exported from Qingdao to Kobe. According to relevant statistics, although my country's cattle industry has realized a fundamental change from a labor-based to a meat-based commodity production mode, China's beef cattle output only accounts for 5.4% of the global total output, and the quality is relatively low. Poor, accession to the WTO is imminent, should catch up.However, the relationship between whether Chinese beef is good or not and whether Chinese people like it or not is a kind of non-tariff barrier.On the issue of globalization of beef, I am actually more worried about Chinese football.Needless to say, all football powerhouses such as Europe and the Americas are beef-rich countries. 45% of the meat eaten by the people is beef. As for South Korea and Japan, they are also rare cattle-eating countries in East Asia.Who is afraid of whom on the court, can it be said that who is more "beautiful" than whom at the dinner table?