Chapter 18 6. Yellow tea

Yellow tea, the origin of the name: People found from fried green tea that the leaf color turned yellow due to insufficient or untimely drying after killing and kneading, so a new category - yellow tea was produced. The production of yellow tea is similar to that of green tea, the difference is that there is an additional stacking process.This dull heaping process is the main feature of yellow tea making method, and also the basic difference between it and green tea.Green tea is not fermented, while yellow tea is fermented.Some of this process is called "boring yellow", "boring pile", or "initial bag", "repackage", "wort pile".

Yellow tea, according to the tenderness of fresh leaves and the size of buds and leaves, is divided into three categories: yellow bud tea, yellow small tea and yellow big tea.The yellow bud tea mainly includes Junshan Yinzhen, Mengding Huangya and Huoshan Huangya; the yellow tea mainly includes Beigang Maojian, Weishan Maojian, Yuanan Luyuan tea, Wanxi Huangxiao tea, Zhejiang Pingyang Huangtang, etc.; the yellow big tea includes Anhui Huoshan, Jinzhai, Liu Yellow tea produced in Ann, Yuexi and Hubei Yingshan and Guangdong Dayeqing and so on. The best yellow bud tea is Junshan Silver Needle in Dongting, Hunan.The finished tea has a strong and straight shape, a uniform weight, and exposed silver buds. The buds are golden and bright, the inner quality is fragrant and tender, the soup is apricot yellow and clear, and the taste is mellow and refreshing.It has a long-standing reputation in the international and domestic markets, and is worth a lot of money. Now the retail price in the Beijing market has exceeded 1,000 yuan per catty.

Anhui Huoshan Huangya is also a treasure of Huangya tea.The production of Huoshan tea has a long history. It has been produced since the Tang Dynasty, and it was a court tribute in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Huoshan yellow big tea, among which the yellow big tea produced in Jinjishan, Dahuaping, Huoshan is the most famous and valuable. The dry tea has a natural color, golden yellow, high fragrance, strong taste, and is resistant to foaming. 1.Beigang Maojian Beigang Maojian, named after the registered trademark "Beigang", was called " Lake Tea" in the Tang Dynasty. It belongs to the yellow tea category and is produced in Beigang, Yueyang City, Hunan Province.The tea area has a mild climate and abundant rainfall. The steam on the lake surface rises slowly, winds around the low altitude, and the breeze blows, like a veil of mist scattered over the north shore of the lake, forming a unique natural environment for the Beigang tea garden.

Picking process and quality of Maojian tea: Beigang Maojian fresh leaves are usually picked five or six days after the Qingming Festival. The raw material of Maojian No. 1 is one bud and one leaf, and Maojian No. 2 and No. 3 are two and three leaves per bud.Grab sunny days to pick, do not pick insect damage, purple bud leaves, fish leaves and peduncles.The fresh leaves are harvested and processed, and the processing method is divided into four processes: frying in a pan, kneading in a pan, sweating and drying.The shape of the finished product is golden yellow, the tips are exposed, the tea sticks are fat, the soup is clear yellow, the aroma is high, the taste is mellow, sweet and refreshing.This product has been famous in Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty. Beigang Maojian produced by Yueyang Tea Company was rated as high-quality famous tea in Hunan Province in 1964.

2.Junshan Yinzhen Junshan Yinzhen, named after the registered trademark "Junshan", is a needle-shaped yellow tea. In the Tang and Song Dynasties, it was called Huanglingmao and Baiheling because of its bird feather shape; in the Qing Dynasty, it was called Baimaojian because of its white hair; the current name was established in 1957. Silver needle tea is produced in Junshan Island, Dongting Lake, Yueyang City, Hunan Province.Junshan is located in the West Dongting Lake, like a crystal emerald, inlaid in the sparkling green lake.Liu Yuxi, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, praised in a poem: "Looking at the green mountains and rivers in Dongting from a distance, there is a green snail in a silver plate." It faces the first famous building in the south of the Yangtze River-Yueyang Tower across the lake in the east; Mottled bamboo tears;Throughout the ages, this Dongting Junshan has been a fascinating place, with high-ranking scholars, Mu Sheng ascending, inscribing poems, and spreading the rhyme.Today, on the leading pillars in front of the tombs of Xiangfei—Ehuang and Nvying, there is a couplet written by Peng Yulin during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, "The two concubines of the emperor and concubines are fragrant through the ages; the mangosteen is full of tears and one person". The word "Junshan" was added.

This ancient and magical Junshan has all kinds of products, and the most popular one is the Junshan Silver Needle.From ancient times to the present, it is famous for its color, fragrance, taste, and strangeness, and is well-known both at home and abroad.The total area is less than one square kilometer, and the highest altitude is less than 80 meters. Xiaoxiaojun Mountain has fertile soil, mild climate and suitable humidity, making it a suitable place for tea.Tea gardens are spread across towers, pavilions, temples, ancient tombs and winding paths, among many scenic spots.Junshan has a long history of tea production. "Baling County Chronicles" records: "The tea produced in Baling Junshan is tender and green like a lotus heart. It was rich in tribute at the age of Tang, and the tribute began in the Five Dynasties." It produced more than one catty, and until the Qing Dynasty, there were still tribute tips and tribute tips, namely silver needles and Maojian. "You can't live without tea for a day" when Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River in 1871.In the forty-sixth year of Qianlong, after tasting Junshan tea, an edict was issued to pay eighteen catties at the age of one.The current annual output of Junshan silver needles is only 300 kilograms. In the spring of 1994, the ex-factory price of the production area was 1,200 yuan per kilogram.

The picking process of silver needle tea: Fresh leaves are mined three or four days before Qingming every year, and made from a single tea tip picked first in spring tea. It takes about 50,000 tea buds to make 1 kg of silver needle tea. Its production technology is exquisite, and the appearance is not modified, it must be kept in its original shape, and only work on three aspects: color, aroma and taste.It took 72 hours to go through the processes of greening, greening, initial packaging, re-drying, cooling, re-packing, and full fire.The characteristics of the production are that the greening and baking are carried out at a relatively low temperature; the greening action must be light and fast, which is moderate and prevents the buds from breaking off; the baking bag is wrapped with mulberry paper during fermentation, and it lasts for up to 60 hours.In recent years, reforms have been made in the process, changing "killing green" to "steaming green", which improves the erection rate of bud heads in the cup.

Junshan Silver Needle has a unique charm. Its finished product has strong buds, firm and straight, white hairs like feathers, golden and bright buds, known as "gold inlaid with jade"; the inner quality is fresh and tender, the soup is apricot yellow and clear, and the taste is sweet. Mellow and sweet, the bottom of the leaf is plump and bright. This worldly treasure of yellow tea, if brewed in a glass cup, will have a wonderful scene: when the boiling water is poured into the cup, the buds will start to rush to the surface of the water. Lying and gradually hanging upright, ups and downs, ups and downs, back and forth three times, nicknamed "three ups and three downs"; bubbles occasionally remain on the tip of the bud, like a bird's beak containing beads; finally, the tea buds stand upright at the bottom of the cup, like fresh bamboo shoots sprouting, with knives and guns everywhere, tea-shaped It complements the color of the soup, the fragrance of tea is overflowing, and the beautiful shadow is floating.At this moment, the drinker can see the spectacle in the cup and taste the fresh fragrance of silver needles.

Junshan Yinzhen, with its superb quality and unique charm, has won great interest and high praise from Chinese and foreign tea scholars and tea drinkers.The Junshan Silver Needle produced by Yueyang Tea Company in Hunan Province caused a sensation when it participated in the Leipzig Fair in 1954 and 1956, and won a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1956, thus becoming famous both at home and abroad.Since 1980, it has been rated as high-quality famous tea in Hunan Province for many times; in 1982, it was rated as national high-quality famous tea by the Ministry of Commerce, and in 1983 it was awarded the high-quality product certificate issued by the Ministry of Foreign Trade.In recent years, it has been exported to Japan, the United States, Hong Kong and Macao; there is a small amount of sales in big cities such as Beijing in China.

3.Weishan Maojian Weishan Maojian is produced in Weishan Township, Daweishan, Ningxiang County, Hunan Province.Weishan is an alpine basin with superior natural environment, lush forests and bamboos, grotesque peaks and mountains, surrounded by streams and rivers, reeds and waterfalls, misty clouds and mist all the year round, and rare days. There is no mountain to be seen".In the mountain, there is the "Ten Fang Miyin Temple" built by Emperor Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty, Li Yue, and Pei Xiu①, which was repaired by Wu Zetian. Because of its reputation, it is known as "famous mountains, famous temples, and famous teas".The average annual rainfall here is 1670 mm, the climate is mild, the sunlight is less, and the relative humidity of the air is above 80%. The soil of the tea garden is yellow soil developed from slate shale, with deep soil layers and rich humus. Invaded by cold and heat, the roots are deep and the leaves are luxuriant, and the buds are fat and the leaves are strong.

The production process of Weishan Maojian and the quality of finished tea: Picking fresh leaves with one bud and one leaf or one bud and two leaves, without damage or purple leaves, refined through processes such as greening, dull yellowing, light kneading, baking, and smoking become.Among them, smoke is the unique feature of Weishan Maojian.The shape of the finished tea is slightly rolled into lumps, the color is bright yellow and oily, and the pekoe is exposed. The soup color is orange and bright.It is regarded as a treasure of ritual tea, and the famous teas of all dynasties are well-known both at home and abroad and sold well all over the world. In 1986, it won the certificate of famous and excellent products; in 1988, it won the bronze medal of China's first food fair. Weishan has a long history of tea production and has been famous as far back as the Tang Dynasty. The "Ningxiang County Annals" from 1862 to 1874 during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty stated: "Weishan tea is picked before the rain. It is fragrant, tender and mellow, and does not let Wuyi and Longjing. It has been sold to Gansu, Xinjiang and other provinces, and has earned huge profits for a long time, and the taste of several plants in Miyin Temple is particularly good." During the "Cultural Revolution", it was found that there were more than 30 catties of tea in the body of the Miyin Temple Buddha statue, which shows the status of tea in the Buddha. Another vivid testimony of "Tea Buddha One Taste". In the early 1950s after the founding of the People's Republic of China, Chairman Mao Zedong asked the staff to write a letter of thanks to Weishan Township after tasting Weishan Maojian.During his lifetime, Chairman Liu Shaoqi regarded Weishan Maojian as his hometown tea and entertained friends at home and abroad.Comrade Hua Guofeng wrote an inscription saying "Weishan Maojian has a unique style".Xie Juezai, Gan Sizhan, Zhou Guangzhao and other veteran revolutionaries from Ningxiang all spoke highly of Weishan Maojian in their hometown. [Notes] ① Pei Xiu 791-864: word Gongmei.A native of Jiyuan, Jiyuan, Mengzhou, and Jiyuan, Hebei Province.Mu Zong was promoted to a Jinshi in Changqing, and served as supervisory censor, Youbuque, Zhongshusheren, Jiangxi and Hunan observation envoys.During his five years as prime minister, he reformed the long-standing disadvantages of water transport and stopped Fang Zhen from extorting and extorting.Later, he was dismissed as the Jiedu envoy of the Xuanwu Army, and Xiantong was restored as the Minister of the Ministry of Officials.The family worships the Buddha, especially until Hugh.Long Yu Shuhan, especially Jing Shidian, is one of the famous calligraphers in Tang Dynasty.Good at writing temple plaques, all of them are frank and lovely. "Book History Huiyao" commented on Pei Xiu's calligraphy: "Deliberate calligraphy, true regular script and charming, especially in running script." 4.Luyuan tea Luyuan tea belongs to the yellow tea category. It is produced in Luyuan Temple, Yuan'an County, Hubei Province, with a history of 750 years.According to county chronicles, at first it was only cultivated by monks on the side of the temple, and the output was very small; local villagers saw the strong fragrance of tea, so they rushed to introduce it, and gradually expanded the scope of cultivation.On the stone tablet of Luyuan Temple, there is also a poem written by Jin Tian, ​​an eminent monk in the Qing Dynasty, who came to Luyuan Temple to give lectures in 1883 in the ninth year of Guangxu, and praised Luyuan tea: "The mountain essence and stone liquid are superior in quality, and a kind of fragrance is all over the face. It is not only good for clearing the heart and improving eyesight, Practicing Zen can subdue the army of sleep demons." Luyuan Temple is located at the foot of Yunmen Mountain among the mountains in the northwest of the county seat, with an altitude of about 120 meters. Tea trees grow, the climate is mild all year round, the rainfall is abundant, and the red sandstone weathered soil is fertile and loose.Tea trees grow luxuriantly, forming its unique flavor. The process and tea quality of Luyuan tea: the tea is picked a few days before the Qingming Festival every year during the rainy season. The standard is one bud, one and two leaves. The fresh leaves are required to be tender, even and pure, without fish leaves and old leaves.After finishing, frying two greens, boring piles, picking and frying and other processes.Among them, stacking is an important process to form the unique quality of Luyuan tea. The tea dregs are piled up in a bamboo tray, patted tightly and compacted, covered with a damp cloth, and stacked for 5-6 hours to promote the yellowing of its color. The finished product is golden in color with a slight caviar bubble, pekoe exposed, ring-shaped ring feet, long-lasting aroma in the inner quality, mellow and sweet taste, bright green-yellow soup, and bright yellow uniform leaf bottom.The tea participated in the National Famous Tea Appraisal in 1982 and 1986, and was rated as National Famous Tea by the Ministry of Commerce. 5.Mengshan Huangya Mengshan Huangya is named after the registered trademark of Mengshan brand. Note: Mengshan Huangya is the same variety as the ancient and modern famous tea Mengding Huangya. Because of the different registered trademarks of the manufacturers, the name of the tea has "mountain". Different from "Ding", it is produced in Mengding Mountain, Mingshan County, Sichuan Province - the state-owned Mingshan County Tea Factory in Sichuan Province.There are five peaks on the top of Mount Meng, the highest being Shangqing Peak with an altitude of 1440 meters.The peaks are beautiful and the trees are green.The soil layer in the production area is deep and the pH value is 4.5-5.4; the annual average temperature is about 13°C; the annual precipitation is 2000-2200 mm; Three major features. In this unique natural environment, the tea trees grow luxuriantly, and the tea buds are fresh and tender, with strong tenderness. The harvesting process and tea products of Mengshan yellow buds: the round fat single buds that are picked up before the Ching Ming Festival every year are used as raw materials, and go through the production processes of one greening, two colors of yellow, one stacking, three times of potting, and two baking. Make the finished tea bud strips even, flat and straight, yellow in color, fully exposed; the soup color is yellow and transparent, sweet and tender, sweet and refreshing; all buds at the bottom of the leaves are bright yellow.It is the best yellow bud tea. Mengshan tea cultivation began in the Western Han Dynasty and has a history of more than 2,000 years.In 813, the eighth year of Tang Yuanhe, Li Jifu wrote "Pictures of Yuanhe County and County": "Mengshan Mountain in Yandao County is ten miles south of the county. Today, the tribute tea is the most in Shu every year." , bathing worship, mountaineering in court clothes, asking the great monk to preside over the temple on the mountain to burn incense and pray, and open the tea garden.Pick 360 tea leaves in the "Emperor Tea Garden", which corresponds to the number of days in the whole year of the lunar calendar, fry them into tea, put them in two silver bottles, and send them to Kyoto as a tribute for the emperor to worship ancestors.At the same time, "Fanzhong" tea leaves were picked from Qingfeng, Ganlufeng, Yunvfeng, Jingquanfeng, Lingjiaofeng, etc. on Mount Meng, kneaded into balls, named "Gezicha", and stored in 18 tin bottles. Accompanying tribute to Beijing is called accompanying tea.This is just as a poem says: "Mengrong fragrant leaves are like Qingluo, and they have been paid tribute to Tianfu since the Tang Dynasty." Mengding tea was offered as a tribute to the royal families of all dynasties every year until the end of the Qing Dynasty. It lasted for more than 1,100 years.After the founding of New China, Mengding tea was rated as one of the top ten famous teas in the country in 1959. Now the development and production of Mengshan tea has made great progress, and the output and quality have been greatly improved.The enterprises now belonging to Sichuan Mengshan Tea Group Company, in addition to the state-owned Mingshan County Tea Factory, also have Mingshan County Tea Company, Mingshan County Tea Tree Breeding Farm, Mingshan County Mengshan Tea Farm, Mingshan County Mengfeng Tea Factory, Sino-foreign joint venture Shu Six tea factories including Ming Tea Co., Ltd. all produce Mengshan tea.The development and production of Mengshan tea has entered a new glorious historical development stage, and more and better Mengshan tea will be put on the market to meet the needs of tea drinkers. 6.Huoshan Huangya Huoshan Huangya is produced in Huoshan County, Anhui Province. It is called because it is made from tender buds and leaves through a dull yellowing process.It belongs to the famous tea of ​​yellow tea class.The production areas are distributed in Jingangtai, Jinjiyang, Wumijian, Manshuihe and Jinzhuping of Jinji Mountain in Dahuaping County, and the quality of Jingangtai is the best.The production area is located in the Dabie Mountains in western Anhui, with an altitude of more than 800 meters, surrounded by clouds and mist all year round, short and weak sunshine, warm and humid climate, with an average annual temperature of 14-16°C, an average annual precipitation of more than 1300 mm, and a relative humidity of about 80%. It is slightly acidic yellow-brown soil with a pH value of 5-6. In addition, a large number of birds inhabit and sprinkle a lot of manure, resulting in very fertile soil.The tea buds produced by it are tender, the leaves are fat, and the quality is good. Picking process and characteristics of tea products: Every year, 3 to 5 days before the Grain Rain, the garden is opened on the mountain, and the picking period is more than 10 days. The most delicate and tender young buds are specially picked and kept fresh.It is made through frying, shaping, initial packaging, initial baking, spreading, re-fired and other processes.The finished tea buds and leaves are straight and uniform, yellow-green in color, tender and thick, resembling a sparrow's tongue; the soup is bright yellow-green, with a yellow ring, and the bottom of the leaf is bright yellow; the taste is rich and mellow, sweet and refreshing, with the aroma of cooked chestnuts, and it is full of fragrance after drinking feeling. Huoshan is a buried mountain, also known as Tianzhu Mountain, which has a long history of tea production, and it has been produced as early as the Tang Dynasty.In the Song of Tea Picking by Qin Taoyu of the Tang Dynasty, there is a poem praising the yellow buds of Huoshan, "Tianzhu's fragrant buds are green and fragrant, and the rotten research is rustling through the rafts".Another example is Xue Neng in the Tang Dynasty in the poem "Xie Liu Xianggong Sending Tianzhu Tea": "I suspect that Manqian peach is tasteless, and Chang'e medicine is not fragrant." All the tea is produced in the area, and they are harvested and processed before the rain every year to pay tribute to the Neifu." According to the "Liu'an Prefecture Records" in the Tongzhi period, in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huoshan tea accounted for 3B4 of the whole prefecture, and the top quality before the rain was harvested and processed every year as a tribute.It was discontinued for a while and resumed in 1971. In 1990, Dahuaping brand Huoshan Huangya produced by Huoshan County Tea Company was rated as a national famous tea by the Ministry of Commerce.At present, it is mainly sold in Beijing, Jiangsu, Tianjin, Shandong and other places, and exported to Hong Kong and Macao.