Chapter 13 2. Tea and Celebrities-1

(1) Lu Yu Lu Yu (733-804), courtesy name Hongjian, surnamed Ji, courtesy name Jizhen, nicknamed Jinglingzi, Sangzhuweng, Donggangzi, was born in Jingling (now Tianmen, Hubei Province) in Tang Fuzhou. He was fond of tea all his life and was proficient in tea ceremony. He is famous all over the world for writing the world's first monograph on tea - "The Classic of Tea", and has made outstanding contributions to the development of China's tea industry and the world's tea industry. "Tea God".He also worked on poetry, but there are not many handed down. Lu Yu's life was full of legends.He was an abandoned orphan.In the 23rd year of Tang Kaiyuan (AD 735), when Lu Yu was three years old, he was picked up by Zen Master Zhiji, the abbot of Longgai Temple in Jingling, on the shore of the local West Lake.Ji Gong used "Yi" as a divination, named the child, and obtained the "Jian" hexagram.

So he was given the surname "Lu" according to the hexagrams, and named him "Yu" with "Hongjian" as the character.Lu Yu learned Chinese and characters, recited Buddhist scriptures, and learned how to make tea in Huangjuanqingdeng and Zhongsheng Fanbai Middle School.But he did not want to convert to Buddhism, so he shaved his hair and became a monk.When he was nine years old, Zen master Zhiji once asked him to copy the scriptures and recite the Buddha, but he asked Jigong, "Disciples of the Shi family have no brothers in life, and no heirs in death. Confucianism says that there are three kinds of unfilial piety, and it is great to have no descendants. A monk can be called a Filial piety?" And openly said: "Yu will teach the text of Confucius." Ji Gong was annoyed that he was rebellious and despised his elders, so he used heavy "minor tasks" to temper him and force him to repent and turn around.He was asked to "sweep the temple grounds, clean the monks' toilets, trample on the muddy walls, lay down tiles and donate houses, and herd one hundred and twenty hooves of cattle."Lu Yu was not discouraged and gave in because of this, but his desire for knowledge became stronger.

He had no paper to learn characters, and used bamboo drawers and ox backs as his books. He occasionally came across Zhang Heng's "Nandu Fu".When Ji Gong knew about it, he was afraid that he would be contaminated with foreign scriptures and lose his teaching, so he was locked up in the temple, ordered to cut plants and reckless, and sent elders to control him.At the age of twelve, he escaped from Longgai Temple by surprise, went to a troupe to learn acting, and became an actor.Although he is ugly and has a stutter, he is humorous and witty, and he is very successful in playing buffoons. Later, he wrote a three-volume joke book "Jun Tan".In the fifth year of Tang Tianbao (746 A.D.), Li Qiwu, the prefect of Jingling, saw Lu Yu's outstanding performance at a gathering of state people. He appreciated his talent and ambition very much. Studying with Master Zou who lives in Huomen Mountain in seclusion.In the eleventh year of Tianbao (752 A.D.), Cui Guofu, a doctor in the Ministry of Rites, was demoted to Jingling Sima.That year, Lu Yu bid farewell to Master Zou and went down the mountain.Cui and Yu met each other, and they often traveled together, tasting tea and water, and talking about poetry and papers.In the thirteenth year of Tianbao (754 A.D.), Lu Yu traveled to Bashan Gorge to investigate tea affairs.Before leaving, Cui Guofu presented him with a white donkey, a Wuli ox and a letter from Wenhuai.Along the way, he stopped at horses in the mountains to pick tea, and went to the spring to drink water in a saddle.In the first year of Qianyuan (758 A.D.) of Emperor Suzong of Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu came to Shengzhou (now Nanjing, Jiangsu Province) and lived in Qixia Temple to study tea.The next year, he lived in Danyang.In the first year of Tang Shangyuan (AD 760), Lu Yu came to Tiaoxi (now Wuxing, Zhejiang) from the foot of Qixia Mountain, lived in seclusion in the mountains, and wrote "The Classic of Tea" behind closed doors.During this period, I often wear short brown gauze scarves and rattan shoes, walking alone in the wild, going deep into the farmhouses, picking tea and looking for springs, evaluating tea and water, or reciting scriptures and poems, hitting trees with sticks, and running water with hands, hesitating and wandering. When the blackness was exhausted, Fang returned home weeping. People at that time called it "Chu Kuang Jieyu".The emperor of the Tang Dynasty once ordered Baiyu to be the prince of literature, and he moved to Taichang Temple to be the Taizhu, but he did not take office.All his life, Lu Yu despised the rich and powerful, did not value wealth, loved nature, and insisted on justice. "Quan Tang Poetry" contains a song by Lu Yu, which reflects his quality:

I don't envy the golden cup, I don't envy the white jade cup, I don't envy entering the province in the court, I don't envy going to the stage in the evening; I envy the water of the West River, and I once came down to Jingling City. Lu Yu's "The Classic of Tea" is a systematic summary of the scientific knowledge and practical experience of tea in the Tang Dynasty and before the Tang Dynasty; It is the crystallization of the experience of picking and processing tea from a wide range of collectors. As soon as the "Tea Classic" came out, it was treasured by people of all ages and praised him for his pioneering work in the tea industry.Song Chen Shidao wrote a preface to "The Classic of Tea": "The writing of Husband Tea began with feathers. Its use in the world also began with feathers. Yu sincerely has contributed to tea!"

In addition to Lu Yu's comprehensive description of the distribution of tea regions and his evaluation of the quality of tea in "The Classic of Tea", many famous teas were first discovered by him.For example, Guzhu purple bamboo shoot tea from the Great Wall of Zhejiang (now Changxing County) was rated as top-grade by Lu Yu and later listed as a tribute tea; Yangxian tea from Yixing County (now Yixing, Jiangsu) was directly recommended by Lu Yu as a tribute. "Yixing County Rebuilt Tea House Records" records: "Li Qiyun, the official censor, is a country. There are people who offer good tea in the mountain custom, and they taste it when receiving guests. On. Qiyun started to enter Wanliang from it, and this is its origin."

Many classics also record the magical legend of Lu Yu tasting tea and appreciating water.Zhang Youxin of the Tang Dynasty described such an incident of Lu Yu in "Jian Cha Shui Ji": "Li Jiqing of the Daizong Dynasty stabbed Huzhou, went to Weiyang (now Yangzhou, Jiangsu), and met Lu Chushi Hongjian. Li Su was familiar with Lu's name and had a great deal of joy. Because of this, he went to the county and stayed at the Yangzi post. When he was about to eat, Li said: "Mr. Lu is good at tea, and he is famous all over the world. Besides, the zero water in the south of the Yangtze River is unique. Today's two are wonderful. They meet once in a thousand years. How unbelievable!" "Order the sergeants who believe in it, hold the bottle and sail the boat, and go deep into Nanling. Lu's sharp weapon waits for it. When the Russian water arrives, Lu lifts his water with a ladle and says: "The river is the river, and those who are not Nanling are like the water on the shore. The envoy said: "A certain boat goes deep, and there are hundreds of people who have seen it, so dare to give it empty."

'From now on, the voice is zero! ’ The envoy was horrified and said: ‘A certain person sailed from Nanling to the shore, and half of the boat was capsized. He was afraid that the water on the bank would increase. Li and Bin were shocked by dozens of people.Li Yin asked Lu, since this is the case, the quality of the water that has been experienced can be judged.Lu said: "The Chu River is the first, and the Jin River is the lowest." Li Yin ordered the pen to follow the dictation. " This incident is also recorded in the "Biography of Lu Yu" in "New Book of Tang Biography", but when it comes to Li Jiqing summoning Lu Yu, "Yu Yi was dressed in wild clothes and brought in. Ji Qing was not polite, and Yu was ashamed. "Destroying Tea Theory".

Lu Yu passed away, and later generations respected him as the "God of Tea", which began in the late Tang Dynasty.Zhao Lin, who served as the governor of Quzhou in the Tang Dynasty, had a close relationship with Lu Yu from his grandfather. He said in "Yin Hua Lu" that Lu Yu "was addicted to tea and invented the method of frying tea. Today, Tao is the home of tea. Its image is placed between the Yang vessels, and it is suitable for tea Ashikaga." Tang Lizhao wrote "National History Supplement" It is also mentioned that Lu Yu "is especially good at tea art, and most of the potters in Gongxian County are porcelain puppets named Lu Hongjian. He bought dozens of tea utensils and got one Hongjian. People in the city are not good at buying tea, so they pour it."

Lu Yu is versatile, and besides "The Classic of Tea", other writings are also quite abundant.According to "Wenyuan Yinghua Lu Literature Autobiography": "Zilu Mountain was in chaos in the Central Plains, and it was "Four Sad Poems". Liu Zhan peeped at Jianghuai and wrote "Fu of the Unknown Heaven". Three volumes of "Jun Chen Qi", 30 volumes of "Yuan Jie", eight volumes of "Jiangxi Four Surnames", ten volumes of "North and South Characters", one volume of "Wu Xingli Official Records", and three volumes of "Zhan Meng" Volume." According to "Xianchun Lin'an Chronicles", when Lu Yu lived in Qiantang (now Hangzhou, Zhejiang), he wrote "Tianzhu Lingyin Two Temples" and "Wulin Mountain".It is a pity that very few of these works have been handed down to the world.

(Ruan Haogeng) (2) Lu Tong Lu Tong (approximately 795-835), nicknamed Yuchuanzi, was born in Jiyuan (now Henan), and his ancestral home was Fanyang (now Zhuo County, Hebei). He was a poet in the Tang Dynasty.Lu Tong was addicted to tea all his life. His song "Tea Song" has been sung for thousands of years since the Tang Dynasty through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Up to now, poets and tea masters still sing it repeatedly when they sing about tea. and. In Lu Tong's poem "Xie Meng Jianyi Sending New Tea" (for content, please refer to this book "Tea Poetry"), the poet looks at Meng Jianyi's new tea sealed with white silk and added with three ink pads. When he cherishes his love, he naturally thinks of The hard work of picking and roasting new tea is not easy.Then, the poet described the feeling of drinking tea with magical pen and ink.For him, tea is not just a drink for the stomach, it seems to have created a vast spiritual world for him. When he drank the seventh bowl of tea, he felt a breeze blowing from his armpits, and he flew up to the blue sky leisurely . The publication of "Tea Song" played a role in spreading the benefits of drinking tea and popularizing the custom of drinking tea among the people.Therefore, later generations once believed that the three things that had the greatest and deepest influence on the tea industry in the Tang Dynasty were: Lu Yu's "Tea Classics", Lu Tong's "Tea Songs" and Zhao Zan's "tea ban" (that is, taxation on tea).Song Huzai said in "Tiaoxi Yuyin Conghua": "The poems of Yuchuan are better than the songs in Greek (that is, Fan Zhongyan's "Song of Fighting Tea with Zhang Min"). The syntax of the poet." The original intention of the poet to write this song "Tea Song" is not just to exaggerate the magical power of tea.The last paragraph of the poem suddenly turned into a plea for the common people: Who knows how many tea farmers risked their lives to pick the most fine and best tea, hanging on the cliffs, when will such days end!The death chapter shows his ambition.Behind some jokes that seem to be "tea masters the fairy", there is a very serious question from the poet.

Lu Tong's "Tea Song" has almost become an allusion for people to sing tea since the Song Dynasty.The poet Sao Ke is fond of tea and is good at cooking, and he is often compared with "Lu Tong" and "Yuchuanzi": "I know that it is not Lu Tong, but I am afraid that Lu Tong has not been related." (Ming Hu Wenhuan); Qingrui, who is better than Yuchuanzi in the product title." (Qing·Wang Chaolin).Tasting tea and appreciating the spring is full of interest, and is often referred to as "seven bowls" and "two armpit breezes": "Why do you need a pill for Emperor Wei, and use Lu Tong seven bowls of tea." (Song Su Shi); "Don't wait for the breeze to produce two armpits, The breeze first blows toward the tip of the tongue." (Song·Yang Wanli).Laijin Yuxuan in Zhongshan Park, Beijing, was changed into a tea house in the early years of the Republic of China. There is a couplet saying: "Three pieces of Lu Yujing, seven degrees of Lutong bowl." In the spring of 1983, a tea tasting party was held in Beijing. Jia Xiaolao recited an impromptu tea poem, and also quoted Lu Tong's "Tea Song" as a classic. There is a saying: "Tender buds and snow are boiled, and the fire is boiling to make the tea fragrant. Seven bowls of poems, one pot of sober intestines." Lu Tong was accidentally arrested and killed during the "Nanlu Incident" in the ninth year of Taihe (835 AD).At that time, Lu Tong was staying at the home of Wang Ya, the prime minister of Chang'an and the leader of Jiangnan tea envoy. According to Jia Dao's "Crying Lutong" sentence: "I lived forty years in my life, but I only wore white clothes." It can be seen that he was only about 40 years old when he died.According to the "Jiyuan County Chronicles" written by Xiao Yingzhi and others during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, there are "Lutong Villa" and "Cooking Tea House" in the north of Stone Village, 20 miles northwest of the county, and "Lu Tong's Tomb" at the top of Wushan Mountain, 12 miles northwest of the county. ", there is also the "Yuchuan Spring" where Lu Tong used to draw water to cook tea on the mountain.Lu Tong called himself "Yuchuanzi" because of the name of the spring. (Ruan Haogeng) (3) Jiaoran Jiaoran, with the common surname Xie and style name Qingzhou, was born in Huzhou (now Wuxing, Zhejiang Province), and was the tenth grandson of Xie Lingyun in the Southern Dynasties.The year of birth and death is unknown. He was active in the Shangyuan and Zhenyuan years (AD 760-840). He was a famous poet monk in the Tang Dynasty.He was good at cooking tea, wrote many poems about tea, and had a close relationship with Lu Yu, and he often got poems and essays as rewards for singing and singing.Jiaoran is a poet monk and a tea monk. Zen Buddhism emphasizes to realize one's own mind through sitting meditation, and Zen temples are very particular about drinking tea.Jiaoran admired drinking tea, and explained the benefits of drinking tea more vividly. He has a poem "Drinking Tea Song to Send Zheng Rong", which says: The people of Danqiu feather eat jade lightly, and the feathers grow from picking tea and drinking. The name of the Tibetan Immortal Mansion is unknown to the world, but the people of the Ossification Cloud Palace do not know it. Yunshan boy tunes the golden pan, which is named after the tea scriptures of Chu people. In the middle of the frosty sky, the fragrant grass breaks down, and the brilliant flowers sip and grow again. It is often said that this tea can cure my illness and make people tremble with anxiety. The incense burner in the sun is still in love, trampling on the clouds in the tiger stream, singing to send you out. Tea has fairy spirits, which are hidden in the fairy mansion, and people don't know each other. Only Yunshan boys often cook and drink with golden pots.Jiaoran advocates fasting and drinking tea in his poems, saying that tea can not only cure diseases and clear away worries in the chest, but also leave on the clouds and ascend into the sky. His "Song of Drinking Tea and Singing Cui Shi Shijun" praised Shanxi tea (produced in Shengxian County, Zhejiang Province) for its clear and timeless aroma and taste like nectar and nectar, and vividly described the life of one drink, another drink, and three drinks. The feeling is similar to Lu Tong's "Drinking Tea Song". Poetry goes: The people of Yue left me tea from Shanxi, and got golden buds and golden tripods. The color of bisque snow and the fragrance of foam, how is it like the nectar of various immortals. One drink will make you sleepy, and your emotions will be bright and clear; drink it again to clear your mind, and suddenly it will be like a rainstorm; you will get the Tao after three drinks, so why bother to break your troubles. This thing is pure and noble, and the world doesn't know it. People in the world often deceive themselves when they drink alcohol. Looking sadly at Bi Zhuoweng at night, smiling at Tao Qian under the fence. Cui Houchu was full of thoughts, and sang an astonishing song. Who knows that the way of tea is all true, only Danqiu is like this. Among the famous teas chanted in Jiaoran’s existing poems are Huzhou Guzhu Purple Bamboo Shoot Tea and Lin’an Tianmu Mountain Tea. "Gu Zhuxing Sending Pei Fangzhou" says: "I have a cloud spring next to Zhushan, and the tea in the mountain is quite related. When the 鶗鳺 sings, the grass dies, and the mountain family gradually wants to harvest tea. The shrike flies to the sun, and the mountain monks grow again. When picking tea last night, the rain in Xifeng passed away, so how about looking for new tea. The female palace is dewy and green shoots are old, and the people in Yao city are sparse and purple bamboo shoots are abundant. Who knows the purple bamboo shoots and green shoots, and the sun is long enough to pick them. The real person of Qingling treats Ziyuan, what a thought it is to store this fragrance." When Jiaoran lived in Miaoxi Temple on Zhushan Mountain in Huzhou, he often accompanied Guzhu Mountain to visit. In fact, what he cared about was purple bamboo shoot tea. The poet really knew all about the tea in the mountain.There is also a song "Drinking Tianmu Camellia to Lu Xun Because Jiyuan Jushisheng", he said that Tianmu Mountain Tea is best "picked from the northern mountain buds in dew", and "the fragrance of the slow fire is better, and the taste of the cold spring is better". Foaming, gathering flowers in a bowl", it is a wonderful enjoyment. After Lu Yu moved to Zhejiang, he met Jiaoran. At the beginning, they lived together in Miaoxi Temple. Later, Lu Yu lived in seclusion in Tiaoxi, Jiangsu and other places, and still visited them frequently.There are nearly 20 of Jiaoran's poems (including couplets) about visiting, seeing off and reuniting with Lu Yu in "The Complete Poems of the Tang Dynasty", and there is no second one among the poets of the Tang Dynasty.His "Gift to Wei Zhuo and Lu Yu" says: "If you only talk about Tao and Xie, you will forget your love all day long; if you don't want to know more, you will be lazy to talk about names when you meet people." It shows that Jiaoran does not want to make many friends, and it is enough to get along with Wei Zhuo and Lu Yu, comparing Wei and Lu to Tao Yuan Ming and Xie Lingyun. When Lu Yu and Jiaoran lived together in Miaoxi Temple, Lu Yu once built a pavilion next to the temple. Because it was completed at the age of Guichou, Guimaosuo and Guihai, Yan Zhenqing, who was serving as the governor of Huzhou at that time, named it "Sangui Pavilion".Jiaoran wrote the poem "Feng He Yan envoy Jun Zhenqing and Lu Chu Shi Yu ascended the Gui Pavilion of Miaoxi Temple": There are many western mountains in autumn, and Lie Cen lingers on the left. There are three Kui calendars in the pavilion, and Shuzhi is adjacent to Shisi Temple. People at that time praised Lu Yu for building a pavilion, Yan Zhenqing for inscription, Jiao Ran and his poems, and praised them as "three wonders". The famous piece in Jiaoran's existing poems is "Looking for Lu Hongjian, Not Encountering": "Although I moved my home, I brought Guo, but the wild path went into mulberry and hemp. I planted chrysanthemum near the fence, but it didn't bloom in autumn. There was no dog barking at the door, and I wanted to ask the west family. .Report on going to the mountains, returning every day." The whole poem is 40 characters, empty like words, and Lu Yu's hermit charm and poet's admiration are vividly written on the paper. (Ruan Haogeng) (4) Bai Juyi Bai Juyi (772-846), courtesy name Letian, nicknamed Xiangshan Jushi in his later years, was born in Taiyuan (now Shanxi) and later moved to Xiagu (now northeast of Weinan, Shaanxi), an outstanding realist poet in Tang Dynasty.He loves tea very much, and once called himself a "special tea man". In the twelfth year of Tang Xianzong Yuanhe (817 A.D.), Bai Juyi was working as a Sima in Jiangzhou (now Jiujiang, Jiangxi). Not long after the Qingming Festival that year, Li Xuan, Bai Juyi's friend and the governor of Zhongzhou (now Zhongxian, Sichuan) sent him a letter The new tea came, and Bai Juyi, who was ill, tasted the new tea, feeling the love of Gao Yilong, and was inexplicably delighted.His poem "Thank Li Liulang for Sending New Shu Tea" describes this event, and the poem says: The old love Zhou Zao made friends with each other, the new tea was separated and sick. A letter on red paper, ten green shoots before the fire. Add a spoonful of water to the soup to fry the fish eyes, and add a knife to stir the koji dust. If you don’t send it to others, send it to me first, because I am a tea lover. The poet received the new Shu tea collected before the cold food and fire ban, cherish it as old as the old one, taste the new one quickly, that is, grind the tea by hand, spoon the water, wait for the fire, and put it down. Thanks to Li Xuan, who knows that he is fond of tea, and "sends such treasures to me before sending them to others". A year earlier, Bai Juyi wrote the famous "Pipa Xing" on the way from Chang'an to Jiangzhou.The poet summarizes the life experience of the pipa girl with passionate writing, and deeply exposes the feudal society's crimes of destroying women, and at the same time pours out his unfortunate relegation and frustration.This poem has left an important tea historical material for future generations: The younger brother left to join the army and the aunt died, and the evening went to the court to look at it. There are few cars and horses in front of the door, and the eldest is married as a businessman's wife. The businessman paid more attention to profit than left, and went to Fuliang to buy tea the month before last. Going to and coming to Jiangkou to guard the empty boat, and going around the boat to moonlight the river is cold. Fuliang, in the north of Jingdezhen City, Jiangxi Province today, can be seen from the poem that it was already a famous tea distribution center in Tang Dynasty. Reading Bai Juyi's poems, it is not difficult to find that the poet's lifelong hobbies are poetry, wine, qin, and tea. "The only thing you know about the qin is Lushui, and the tea is the old Mt. Mengshan. If you are poor, you will always be with you. Who knows that I have nothing to return." Qin and tea are the treasures of the poet. "After the scented tea is cooked, the waist is warm and the sun is shining. With the old piano growing up, the spring wine is not empty." The nose is fragrant and the tea is ripe, playing the piano with the old man is the most comfortable enjoyment of the poet in his later years.Playing the piano is impossible without tea, and chanting is even more indispensable.Bai Juyi liked to chant while drinking tea. "Idlely recite a new sentence from the Ministry of Industry, and drink tea from Pilingyuan when I am thirsty." The poems sent by the servant Yang Muchao, and the Yangxian tea sent by the governor of Changzhou Yang Yuqing were received. The poems and tea drinking were full of fun, but it was a pity that "you can't see Yang Muchao, who knows the taste"!When drunk and thirsty after drinking, tea is the only good thing. "Drunk to several clusters of red peonies, thirsty to taste a bowl of green prosperity."Poetry, alcohol, tea, and playing the qin made Bai Juyi's life rich and colorful.In his later years, he couldn't do without tea even more. He said: "When you are old, your teeth are weak and you feel orange acid. When you are sick, your lungs are thirsty and feel the fragrance of tea." Bai Juyi drinks tea, and he is very particular about the selection of tea, water, and utensils, as well as the preparation of soup after the fire. "Sit with a drink of Lingling water and watch the rustling dust. Wuyou holds a bowl and sends it to tea lovers." "I love Yiquan Xinyin most, and the cold and twisted flows around the steps."He likes to use Lingling mountain spring water for making tea, but not only springs are good, he often chooses water products according to local conditions. "Crying to the Shuangmao sentence, tasting snow tea", snow water is a rare good water for cooking tea; "Shu tea is sent but it is new, and Weishui is boiled to feel the treasure", and it is also precious to cook tea with clean Weihe water. The poet always carefully adds a spoonful of water when cooking tea, waits for the rustling water to boil until "the eyes of flowers and fishes boil", and puts the powdered tea that has been ground until it is as tender and yellow as dust into the tea pot.Such a delicious and mellow tea drink, I want to dedicate a bowl to tea lovers like myself, but unfortunately I can't pass it on. Bai Juyi once opened a garden to grow tea.It was when he was the Sima of Jiangzhou, "traveling in Lushan Mountain, under the Xianglu Peak in the east and west forests, and seeing clouds, springs and rocks, he was the best, and he couldn't give up his love, because he set up thatched cottage" ("The Book of Yuwei").The tea garden is next to Yiai Temple on Xianglufeng.He wrote "A New Thatched Cottage under the Xianglu Peak, Immediately Winging and Inscribed on the Stone". The poem says: To the north of Xianglu Peak, to the west of Yiai Temple. How can the white stone be chiseled, and the clear stream is also gurgling. There are dozens of pine trees and more than a thousand bamboo poles. The green umbrella cover is loose, and the bamboo leans against the green lang. There is no one living under it, what a pity for many years! Sometimes there are apes and birds together, and there is nothing but wind and smoke all day long. From time to time there was Shen Mingzi, whose surname was Bai and the character was Letian. There is nothing good in my life, but my heart remains after seeing this. If you get the land of old age, you suddenly don't know how to return it. Jiayan forms a Maoyu, and a tea garden opens in a ravine. Living in such a way, building tea gardens, listening to flying springs, admiring white lotus, drinking wine and playing the piano, and singing songs to the sky, the poet feels like a tired bird flying back to the lush forest, like a dry fish swimming back to a clear pond, quite proud and self-sufficient.At that time, "the medicine garden and tea garden were his industry, and the wild elk and forest cranes were his friends." In this period of life of the poet, Ming Huang Zongxi said in "Kuanglu Travel Notes": "There is no other industry in the mountains, and food and clothing are based on tea, which is the highest one. , it is Yunwu tea, a famous product here. The Baixiangshan Herbal Garden tea garden is an industry, and it is true." In the second year of Changqing (822 A.D.), Bai Juyi went to Hangzhou as the governor.During his two-year tenure, he loved the scenery of the West Lake and the tea and sweet spring in the West Lake. He often invited literati, poets and monks to sing and drink.Poet monk Tao Guang and Bai Juyi often exchanged poems and essays for remuneration.Once, Bai Juyi invited Zen Master Taoguang to the city with a poem: "Order the master to eat with you, and a cup of tea after fasting." Ah Yi Shimian can't bear to fly to the city, I'm afraid I'll get in front of Yingcuicui Tower." Bai Juyi had no choice but to go up the mountain to visit him personally, drinking tea and reciting poems together.The tea cooking well in Taoguang Temple in Lingyin, Hangzhou is said to be the place where Bai Juyi cooked tea. (Ruan Haogeng) (5) Lu Guimeng and Pi Rixiu Lu Guimeng (?~About 881), courtesy name Luwang, nicknamed Jianghu Sanren, Mr. Fuli, and Tian Suizi, was born in Changzhou (now Wu County, Jiangsu Province).Tang Dynasty writer.In his early years, he was unsuccessful in the promotion of Jinshi. He once worked in the second county of Suhu, and then lived in seclusion in Fuli.Although there are hundreds of acres of land, because of the low terrain and the rain is connected to the river, it is often hungry.He ran a tea garden at the foot of Guzhu Mountain. He bought and rented tea at the age of one year, and he was the first in quality. He wrote the "Book of Quality", which can follow Lu Yu's "Tea Classic", but unfortunately it has long been lost. Pi Rixiu (approximately 834-883), with the style of Ximei and the style of Yishao, was born in Xiangyang (now Hubei) with the nickname Lumenzi, and also known as Jianqi Buyi and Mr. Zuiyin.Tang Dynasty writer.In the eighth year of Xiantong (867 AD), he became a Jinshi, traveled east the next year, and went to Suzhou. In the tenth year of Xiantong, he served as the governor of Suzhou. . Pi Rixiu met Lu Guimeng when he was in Suzhou, and sang with him, becoming a pair of close poet friends, known as "Pi Lu" in the world.In the singing and communication between the two, Pi Rixiu has ten "Miscellaneous Chant in Tea", and Lu Guimeng has "Ten Chant on Fenghe Ximei Tea Set".The two chanted one thing and one thing, sang and harmonized each other, a total of twenty songs.Pi Rixiu wrote a preface before "Miscellaneous Songs in Tea", which said: Since the fall of the Zhou Dynasty, as well as the tea affairs in the Guo Dynasty, Lu Jizhen, the son of Jingling, has said in detail.However, Ji Zhen used to call tea drinker, and he must cook it, which is no different from husband who sips vegetables. From the beginning of the season, there are three volumes of scriptures, which divide its source, make its utensils, teach it to make, set up its utensils, and order it to cook.Those who drink it get rid of the disease and get rid of the disease, although the disease is not as good as the doctor.It is beneficial, but it is insignificant to others.Yu Shi got Ji Zhen's book and thought it was ready for preparation. Later, he got two chapters of his "Gu Zhu Shan Ji", which contained many tea stories.Later, Wen Congyun in Taiyuan and Duan Fouzhi in Wuwei each made more than ten sections of tea supplementation, and they were stored in the square book.The matter of tea, from the Zhou Dynasty to the present, has not been left behind.In the early Jin Dynasty, Du Yu had "荈诗", Ji Zhen had "Tea Song", and Yu Que was still in his heart, saying that he had its own features but not in poetry, and also Ji Zhen's remaining hatred, so he wrote ten chants and sent them to the sky. son. This preface summarizes the historical facts of tea and the tea affairs from Zhou to Tang, highly commented on Lu Yu's "Tea Classic", and explained that the "Ten Songs" described the tea affairs in the form and language of poetry. Pilu's chants and poems include ten titles of tea dock, tea man, tea bamboo shoots, tea pot, tea house, tea stove, tea baking, tea tripod, tea pot, and tea making.Among them, the second poem "Tea Man", Pi Rixiu said: Born in Guzhu Mountain, grew up in Manshiwu. The tone is like tea, and the fragrance of clothes is like smoke. The court was covered by the son, and Guo served as a prisoner. Laughing at each other day and night, wearing a light basket around the waist. Lu Guimeng agreed and said: Talented to know spiritual grass, naturally Zhong Yezi. Leisurely coming to the foot of the North Mountain seems to be in the east wind period. After the rain, I went to explore Fang, and the road between the clouds was dangerous. Only the primrose is known to everyone. Tea is a gifted "spiritual herb". Guzhushan tea people get its aura, and even their tone of voice and clothes are filled with the fragrance of tea.When it comes to tea-picking season, "laughing at each other day and night", this kind of labor is pleasant.However, the tea mountain is so high among the clouds, the path is deep and steep, and the life of the tea pickers is full of hardships and dangers.Pilu and Pilu both liked what tea people liked, and expressed deep sympathy for the sufferings of tea people. The poem "Tea House" describes the living, working and environment of the tea people in Guzhu Mountain, which is full of life flavor.Pi Rixiu's poem goes: Yangya rests on the white house, and plays with a few mouthfuls.The red spring is drawn from the shed, and the purple fern is steamed before baking.After Nai Weng studied the tea, the middle-aged woman took a tea break.Covering the firewood doors facing each other, the mountains and moons are full of fragrance. "Lu Guimenghe's poem: "Use materials from the mountain to build a house under the mountain.The door is inclined due to the water potential, and the wall is bent by the rock.The morning and the birds are scattered, and the evening is with the clouds.Don't be afraid to pick and work, only worry about the lack of officials. "Tea farmers are not afraid of the hard work of tea picking and processing. What they worry about is that the tribute tea urged by the government has not been satisfied. It shows the poet's understanding and sympathy for tea farmers. "Tea Stove" vividly describes the scene of tea making.Pi Rixiu wrote: "The Nanshan tea incident was started, and the stove was set up next to the rock roots. Boiled stones give off gas, and the firewood is fragrant. After steaming, the green qiong condenses, and the green pulp comes out bright. No matter how hard it is, it will be poured one by one." Lu Guimeng reconciled and said: "There is no sudden embracing the light haze, and there is smoke reflecting the early morning sun. The jade spring in the pot is boiling, and the cloud buds are ripe in the retort. The strange fragrance hits the spring osmanthus, and the tender color of Lingqiu chrysanthemum. The Yang is like my disciple, and I can’t see enough every year." It can be seen in the poem, In the Tang Dynasty, the tea stoves used for making tea had no chimney. After the water in the pot was boiled, the tea buds would be steamed.This kind of scene is not seen enough every year. Pi Rixiu's "Tea Baking" poem said: "Dug the bottom of the blue rock, it should be two feet deep. The mud is easy to carry cloud roots, but it is difficult to burn the stone veins. At the beginning, it can dry gold cakes, and gradually see dry agar liquid. There are a total of cedar forests in Jiuli. , facing each other on the side of the mountain." Describes the roasting process and scene.Lu Guimeng and Poetry: "Pound the coagulation paste left and right, and spread the smoke in the morning and evening. The square and the circle are photographed according to the sample, and the order is taken according to the layer. The mountain ballads are high and low, and the fire is still civil and military. It is said that the predecessors roasted the preserved flowers from time to time." Roasting tea season, morning and evening One after another, it is very hard work; the shape of the tea cake is made when it is baked, and the heat of the roasted tea is combined with civil and military skills. Lu Yu's "The Classic of Tea Three Zhizao" said that the manufacture of tea "steam it, smash it, shoot it, roast it, wear it, seal it, and the tea is dry." Pi Lu "Tea House", "Tea Stove" , "Tea Baking" poems vividly describe the process of making tea in the Tang Dynasty: "Steam purple fern before baking", "Nai Weng grinds tea", "Middle woman shoots tea", "Pound left and right to coagulate paste", "Fangyuan Shoot as you like", and so on.It shows us a scroll of tea making in the Tang Dynasty. "Tea Cauldron", "Tea Ou" and "Cooking Tea" sung by Pi Lu focus on the joy of cooking and drinking tea.Pi Rixiu said: "Xiangquan is combined with milk, and it is boiled like pearls." At this time, the tea plantation looks like crab eyes and fish scales, and the sound is like "pine belt rain". ".Lu Guimeng said: "Come and sit in the pine trees and watch the snow on the pine trees." It would be even better to return the snow on the pine branches to make tea. With the inspiration of poetry, rich and vivid words, vivid brush and ink, Pi Lu artistically described various aspects of tea affairs in the Tang Dynasty. It can be said to be a "Tea Classic" written in poetry. (Ruan Haogeng) (6) Ouyang Xiu Ouyang Xiu (1007-1072), courtesy name Yongshu, nickname Zuiweng, and late Liuyi Layman, was born in Yongfeng, Jizhou (now part of Jiangxi).A politician and writer in the Northern Song Dynasty, he was one of the eight great masters in the Tang and Song Dynasties. "In my old age, the taste of the old world was not good, and the only thing I liked was drinking tea." Ouyang Xiu has been in office for forty years, going up and down, denouncing homelessness.In his later years, he wrote a poem to express himself, wanting to lament the ups and downs of the world through singing tea, but it also revealed that he still had the ambition to reform politics in his early years.Of course, what is more direct here is to describe his habit of drinking tea throughout his life, which has not diminished even in his old age. Ouyang Xiu loves tea and has left us many poems about tea. In addition to many poems about tea, he also wrote the afterword for Cai Xiang's "Tea Records"; In "Records", there are also several articles about tea; there is also "Da Ming Shui Ji" which specifically discusses the water used for sencha, which are very rare. In the third year of Jingyou (AD 1036), Fan Zhongyan was demoted to Raozhou because of a dispute with Prime Minister Lu Yijian, and Ouyang Xiu and others were demoted to Yiling (now Yichang, Hubei) because they supported Fan.When he first arrived in Yiling, he had an article "The Story of Zhixitang in Yiling County", which said: "Yiling's customs are simple and wild, and there are few robbers fighting, but Ling Zhi's solar eclipse includes rice and fish, and orange, pomelo, tea and bamboo shoots in four seasons. taste, the mountains and rivers are beautiful, and the towns and residences are all lovely.” From this, it can be seen that Ouyang Xiu had a deep love for tea in his early years. Ouyang Xiu highly admired the Shuangjing tea produced in Xiushui, Jiangxi Province, the hometown of the poet Huang Tingjian in the Northern Song Dynasty, and believed that it was comparable to the Baoyun tea produced at the foot of Baoyun Mountain in West Lake, Hangzhou, and the Rizhu tea produced in Rizhuling, Shaoxing.He has a poem "Shuangjing Tea": The water in the Xijiang River is clear and the stones are old, and the tea grown on the stones is like chicken feet. Poor La not cold spring early, Shuangjing sprouts first herbs. White hair follicles are made of red and green yarn, and one or two buds are raised in ten catties of tea. Chang'an is rich and noble, and the families of the five princes need to boast for three days after one sip. Baoyun's daily casting is not perfect, striving for the new and abandoning the old world's human feelings. Unexpectedly, a gentleman has constant virtue, and the treasure does not change at any time. Don't you see the dragon and phoenix regiment of Jianxi, the old fragrance and color will not be changed. Shuangjing tea "buds grow first and all kinds of herbs" are picked and are very delicate. "One or two buds need to be grown in ten catties of tea".In the last few lines of the poem, he associates the quality of tea with the state of the world and human feelings, and criticizes the kind of secular people who "compete for the new and discard the old".He also talked about Shuangjing tea in Volume 1 of "Returning to the Field", saying that "baked tea comes from Fujian, and herbal tea flourishes in Zhejiang and Zhejiang provinces. The white buds are becoming more and more prosperous, and the production is especially fine in recent years. The capsule is made of red yarn, only one or two liang, and it is raised with a dozen catties of regular tea. One." Shuangjing tea was once "famous in the capital", which is not unrelated to Ouyang Gong's praise. Ouyang Xiu and Mei Yaochen were close friends, and they often exchanged poems and essays with each other. They often tasted new tea together, exchanging tea tasting experience by singing and answering. "Tasting New Tea and Presenting the Holy Yu" is a hymn to Jian'an Dragon and Phoenix Tuancha.A word "new" is highlighted in the poem: "Jian'an is three thousand and five hundred miles away, and the capital tastes new tea in March." It is 3,500 miles away from Jian'an to Bianjing (Kaifeng), but new tea can be tasted in March, which shows that the picking is early. "The year is so poor that spring is about to move, and the thunder has not risen to drive away the dragon and snake. At night, drums fill the valley, and thousands of people shout for help. Thousands of trees are cold and sleepy, only this tree sprouts first." In the poem He also talked about his tea tasting scriptures: "The spring, the sweet, the utensils are clean, the weather is good, and it is good to choose a guest while sitting in it." He believes that tea tasting must be new tea, sweet water, clean utensils, plus bright sky and good guests. Real things have real rewards". Ouyang Xiu has both praises and criticisms for the "Little Dragon Tuan" created by Cai Xiang, but there are more praises than criticisms.In the preface he wrote for Cai Xiang's "Tea Records", he said: "Tea is the most refined thing, and the small group is also the essence. Yan. Renzong especially cherished it. Although he was a minister who assisted the prime minister, he never gave it away. But on the eve of the big ceremony in the southern suburbs, four people from the Privy Council of Zhongshu gave a cake in total. After splitting it up, I didn't dare to grind and test it. The family kept it as a treasure, and there were good guests from time to time, and they passed it on to you. In the seventh year of Jiayou, I enjoyed the Mingtang personally. On the eve of fasting, the first person gave me a cake, and I also foresaw it. I have kept it till now." At that time, Xiaolongtuan tea "every twenty cakes weighed one catty, was worth two taels of gold, but gold was available, but tea was not available" ("Gui Tian Lu" Volume II).Therefore, it is so precious that "you don't want to crush it if you hold it in your hand, and it will be almost useless to print it if you have the same kind."Repeatedly pass it on until the surface of the cake has been stroked until it appears sunken, and I am still reluctant to try it.No wonder later Tang Geng commented disapprovingly on Ouyang Gong's move in "The Story of Fighting Tea": I don't ask Tuanmao when I hear the tea. In the past year, I have read the three dynasties, but the gift of tea is still there. How can there be tea again. " Ouyang Xiu also has "Six Questions on Yangzhou with the Original Father-Two Poems of Shihuitang", which praises Yangzhou tea.Poetry goes: The snow still covers the Mengding trees, and the thunder has not yet struck the Jianxi spring. The ground warming in Zhongzhou sprouted early, and it is advisable to pay tribute first, and everything new. Recalling the past, I tried to practice the duties of a minister, and I explored the two flags in the early spring. Unexpectedly, when Bai Shou came to resign from the ban, he had to give Jin Luan a cup. The hall of time, the place where tribute tea was made.It can be seen from the poem that Yangzhou also harvested tribute tea, and the harvesting time was earlier than Mengding and Jianxi.Ouyang Gong also went to inspect the germination of spring tea in person.Regarding the tea produced in Yangzhou, there is no mention in Lu Yu's "Tea Classic".It is only recorded in "Tea Spectrum" by Shu Mao Wenxi of the Five Dynasties: "Yangzhou Chanzhi Temple, the Forbidden City of the Sui Dynasty, and the temple rests on Shugang. Originally documented. "Da Ming Shui Ji" is Ouyang Xiu's special essay on tea.Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" talked about water, and Zhang Youxin wrote "Jiancha Shui Ji" later.Ouyang Gong commented that the words in "Jianchashuiji" are not credible, and he thinks that Lu Yu's theory is reasonable. He said: "Yu's theory of water is that he hates soaking and likes springs. Water gathers together, so it is inferior to mountains and rivers, but this theory is close to physical clouds." (Ruan Haogeng) (7) Cai Xiang Cai Xiang (1012-1067), courtesy name Junmo, was born in Xianyou (now Fujian), Xinghua.A famous calligrapher in the Song Dynasty, he is as famous as Su Shi, Huang Tingjian and Mi Fu, and is also known as the "Four Masters of the Song Dynasty".Cai Xiang successively served as the judge of Dali Temple, the transfer envoy of Fujian Road, and the envoy of the third division. He also served as the magistrate of Kaifeng, Quanzhou, and Hangzhou as a direct bachelor of Longtuge, a direct bachelor of the Privy Council, and a bachelor of Duanmingdian.Therefore, it is also called Cai Mixue and Cai Duanming; after his death, he was posthumously named Zhonghui, also known as Cai Zhonghui.He is a court official who loves tea very much, and he can also be called a tea scientist, especially he has made important contributions to the tea industry in Fujian. During his tenure in Fujian, Cai Xiang paid attention to farming and mulberry at all times. For example, he wrote "Litchi Pu" when he was a prefect in Quanzhou, and wrote "Tea Record" when he was a transit envoy in Fujian. Although "Tea Record" is only a thousand words, it is very famous.分两篇，上篇论茶，下篇论茶器，并篇前有序，篇末有后序。在“茶论”中，对茶的色、香、味和藏茶、炙茶、碾茶、罗茶、候汤、熁盏、点茶作了精到而简洁的论述；在“论器”中，对制茶用器和烹茶用具的选择使用，均有独到的见解。 宋代的龙凤团茶，有“始于丁谓，成于蔡襄”之说。制小龙凤团茶是蔡襄在茶叶采造上的一个创举，当时赞美之声不绝。宋人王辟之在《渑水燕谈录》中说到：“建茶盛于江南，近岁制作尤精，龙凤团茶最为上品，一斤八饼。庆历中，蔡君谟为福建转运使，始造小团以充岁贡，一斤二十饼，可谓上品龙茶者也。仁宗尤所珍惜。虽宰臣未尝辄试。惟郊礼致斋之夕，两府各四人共赐一饼，宫人翦金为龙凤花贴其上，八人分蓄之，以为奇玩，不敢自试，有嘉宾出而传玩。”可见，当时小龙团茶朝廷视为珍品，达官显贵也不可多得。熊蕃有《御苑采茶歌》云：“外台庆历有仙官，龙凤才闻制小团。争得似金模寸璧，春风第一荐宸餐。”这位庆历年间的“仙官” 即指蔡襄。不过，欧阳修、苏轼对蔡襄这一“创举”有过一些议论。明人赵釴在《鷃林子》中说：“蔡君谟着茶录，造大小龙团，欧公闻而叹曰：君谟士人，奚至作此，作俑者可罪。 夫饮食，细事也，君子处世，岂不能随时表见，乃于茶铛水瓮中立名。”欧公认为像蔡襄这样学有道艺的人，何必从“茶铛水瓮”这些饮食细事中去立名。苏轼在《荔枝叹》中有句： “武夷溪边粟粒芽，前丁后蔡相笼加。争新买宠各出意，今年斗品充官茶。”他认为“贡茶”与“贡荔枝”一样，都是争新买宠，给老百姓带来困扰。可是，无论欧阳修或是苏轼，对龙团凤饼又都是十分喜爱的，同样有过不少赞美之词。 蔡襄喜爱斗茶。宋人江休复《嘉佑杂志》记有蔡襄与苏舜元斗茶的一段故事：蔡斗试的茶精，水选用的是天下第二泉——惠山泉；苏所取茶劣于蔡，却是选用了竹沥水煎茶，结果苏舜元胜了蔡襄。 蔡襄还善于茶的鉴别。他在《茶录》中说：“善别茶者，正如相工之瞟人气色也，隐然察之于内。”他神鉴建安名茶石岩白，一直为茶界传为美谈。彭乘《墨客挥犀》记：“建安能仁院有茶生石缝间，寺僧采造，得茶八饼，号石岩白，以四饼遗君谟，以四饼密遣人走京师，遗内翰禹玉。岁余，君谟被召还阙，访禹玉。禹玉命子弟于茶笥中选取茶之精品者，碾待君谟。君谟捧瓯未尝，辄曰：'此茶极似能仁石岩白，公何从得之？'禹玉未信，索茶贴验之，乃服。” 作为书法家的蔡襄，每次挥毫作书必以茶为伴。欧阳修深知君谟嗜茶爱茶，在请君谟为他书《集古录目序》刻石时，以大小龙团及惠山泉水作为“润笔”。君谟得而大为喜悦，笑称是“太清而不俗”。蔡襄年老因病忌茶时，仍“烹而玩之”，茶不离手。老病中他万事皆忘，惟有茶不能忘，正所谓“衰病万缘皆绝虑，甘香一事未忘情。” （阮浩耕） (8) Su Shi 苏轼（１０３７～１１０１年），字子瞻，号东坡居士，眉山（今四川眉山县）人。我国宋代杰出的文学家。在北宋文坛上，与茶叶结缘的人不可悉数，但是没有一位能像苏轼那样于品茶、烹茶、种茶均在行，对茶史、茶功颇有研究，又创作出众多的咏茶诗词的。 苏轼十分嗜茶。茶，助诗思，战睡魔，是他生活中不可或缺之物。元丰元年（公元１０７８年）苏轼任徐州太守。这年春旱，入夏得喜雨，苏轼去城东２０里的石潭谢神降雨，作有《浣溪沙》五首纪行。词云：“酒困路长惟欲睡，日高人渴漫思茶，敲门试问野人家。”形象地记述了他讨茶解渴的情景。 他夜晚办事要喝茶：“簿书鞭扑昼填委，煮茗烧栗宜宵征” （《次韵僧潜见赠》）；创作诗文要喝茶：“皓色生瓯面，堪称雪见羞；东坡调诗腹，今夜睡应休”（《赠包静安先生茶二首》）；睡前睡起也要喝茶：“沐罢巾冠快晚凉，睡余齿颊带茶香”（《留别金山宝觉圆通二长老》）“春浓睡足午窗明，想见新茶如泼乳”（《越州张中舍寿乐堂》）。更有一首《水调歌头》，记咏了采茶、制茶、点茶、品茶，绘声绘色，情趣盎然。 词云： 已过几番雨，前夜一声雷。 旗枪争战建溪，春色占先魁。 采取枝头雀舌，带露和烟捣碎，结就紫云堆。 轻动黄金碾，飞起绿尘埃。 老龙团，真凤髓，点将来。 兔毫盏里，霎时滋味舌头回。 唤醒青州从事，战退睡魔百万，梦不到阳台。 两腋清风起，我欲上蓬莱。 长期的地方官和贬谪生活，使苏轼足迹遍及各地，从峨眉之巅到钱塘之滨，从宋辽边境到岭南、海南，为他品尝各地的名茶提供了机会。诚如他在《和钱安道寄惠建茶》诗中所云：“我官于南今几时，尝尽溪茶与山茗。”其中：“白云峰下两旗新，腻绿长鲜谷雨春”，是杭州所产的“白云茶”；“千金买断顾渚春，似与越人降日注”，是湖州产的“顾渚紫笋茶”和绍兴产的“日铸雪芽”；“未办报君青玉案，建溪新饼截云腴”，这种似云腴美的“新饼”产自南剑州（今福建南平）；“浮石已干霜后水，焦坑闲试雨前茶”，这谷雨前的“焦坑茶”产自粤赣边的大瘐岭下；还有四川涪州（今彭水）的月兔茶，江西分宁（今修水）的双井茶，湖北兴国（今阳新）的桃花茶，等等。苏轼爱茶至深，在《次韵曹辅寄壑源试焙新茶》诗里，将茶比作“佳人”。Poetry goes: 仙山灵草湿行云，洗遍香肌粉末匀。 明月来投玉川子，清风吹破武林春。 要知冰雪心肠好，不是膏油首面新。 戏作小诗君勿笑，从来佳茗似佳人。 苏轼对烹茶十分精到。“精品厌凡泉”。他认为好茶必须配以好水。熙宁五年在杭州任通判时，有《求焦千之惠山泉诗》：“故人怜我病，蒻笼寄新馥。欠伸北窗下，昼睡美方熟。 精品厌凡泉，愿子致一斛。”苏轼以诗向当时知无锡的焦千之索惠山泉水。另一首《汲江煎茶》有句：“活水还须活火烹，自临钓石取深清。”诗人烹茶的水，还是亲自在钓石边（不是在泥土旁）从深处汲来的，并用活火（有焰方炽的炭火）煮沸的。南宋胡仔赞叹《汲江煎茶》诗说：“此诗奇甚，道尽烹茶之要。”烹茶之劳，诗人又常常亲自操作，不放心托付于僮仆：“磨成不敢付僮仆，自看雪汤生几珠”（《鲁直以诗馈双井茶次韵为谢》）。苏轼对烹茶煮水时的水温掌握十分讲究，不能有些许差池。他在《试院煎茶》诗中说：“蟹眼已过鱼眼生，飕飕欲作松风鸣。蒙茸出磨细珠落，眩转遶瓯飞雪轻。银瓶泻汤夸第二，未识古人煎水意。君不见，昔时李生好客手自煎，贵从活火发新泉。”他的经验是煮水以初沸时泛起如蟹眼鱼目状小气泡，发出似松涛之声时为适度，最能发新泉引茶香。煮沸过度则谓“老”，失去鲜馥。所以煮时须静候水的消息。宋人曾有“候汤最难”之说。 对煮水的器具和饮茶用具，苏轼也有讲究。“铜腥铁涩不宜泉”，“定州花瓷琢红玉”。用铜器铁壶煮水有腥气涩味，石烧水味最正；喝茶最好用定窑兔毛花瓷（又称“兔毫盏”）。 苏轼在宜兴时，还设计了一种提梁式紫砂壶。后人为纪念他，把此种壶式命名为“东坡壶”。“松风竹炉，提壶相呼”，即是苏轼用此壶烹茗独饮时的生动写照。 苏轼亲自栽种过茶。贬谪黄州时，他经济拮据，生活困顿。黄州一位书生马正卿替他向官府请来一块荒地，他亲自耕种，以地上收获稍济“困匮”和“乏食”之急。在这块取名“东坡”的荒地上，他种了茶树。《问大冶长老乞桃花茶栽东坡》云：“嗟我五亩园，桑麦苦蒙翳。不令寸地闲，更乞茶子艺。”在另一首《种茶》诗中说：“松间旅生茶，已与松俱瘦”“移栽白鹤岭，土软春雨后。弥旬得连阴，似许晚遂茂。” 是说茶种在松树间，生长瘦小但不易衰老。移植于土壤肥沃的白鹤岭，连日春雨滋润，便恢复生长，枝繁叶茂。可见诗人于躬耕间深谙茶树习性。 苏轼喝茶、爱茶，还基于他深知茶的功用。熙宁六年（公元１０７３年）他在杭州任通判时，一日，以病告假，独游湖上净慈、南屏、惠昭、小昭庆诸寺，是晚又到孤山去谒惠勤禅师。这天他先后品饮了七碗茶，颇觉身轻体爽，病已不治而愈，便作了一首《游诸佛舍，一日饮酽茶七盏，戏书勤师壁》： 示病维摩元不病，在家灵运已忘家。 何须魏帝一丸药，且尽卢仝七碗茶。 诗人得茶真味，夸赞饮茶的乐趣和妙用。昔魏文帝曾有诗：“与我一丸药，光耀有五色，服之四五日，身体生羽翼。” 苏轼却认为卢仝的“七碗茶”更神于这“一丸药”。在诗作中他还多次提到茶能洗“瘴气”：“若将西庵茶，劝我洗江瘴”；“同烹贡茗雪，一洗瘴茅秋”。 苏轼《仇池笔记》中有《论茶》一则，介绍茶可除烦去腻，用茶漱口，能使牙齿坚密。他说：“除烦去腻，不可缺茶，然暗中损人不少。吾有一法，每食已，以浓茶漱口，烦腻既出，而脾胃不知。肉在齿间，消缩脱去，不烦挑刺，而齿性便若缘此坚密。率皆用中下茶，其上者亦不常有，数日一啜不为害也。此大有理。”茶与苏轼生活之密切，苏轼对茶功之运用，由此可见。 苏轼在饮茶品茗之际，常把茶农之苦辛悬于心头，“悲歌为黎元”。《荔枝叹》指斥了贵族官僚们，昔日贡荔枝，今日又贡茶、贡花，争新买宠的可耻行径：“君不见武夷溪边粟粒芽，前丁后蔡相笼加，争新买宠各出意，今年斗品充官茶。” 并直言：“我愿天公怜赤子，莫生尤物为疮痏”。充分表现出他同情茶农，抨击对茶农的苛征重敛。 苏轼还借咏茶来抒发人生感慨，这其实也是他自己精神面貌的写照。《寄周安孺茶》这首长达１２０句的苏轼第一长篇，正是咏茶之作。诗篇先是记述了宋以前的茶文化历史：“大哉天宇内，植物知几族。灵品独标奇，迥超凡草木。名从姬旦始，渐播《桐君录》。赋咏谁最先？厥传惟杜育。唐人未知好，论着始于陆。常、李亦清流，当年慕高躅。遂使天下士，嗜此偶于俗。岂但中土珍，兼之异邦鬻。鹿门有佳士，博览无不瞩。邂逅天随翁，篇章互赓续。开园颐山下，屏迹松江曲。 有兴即挥毫，灿然存简牍。”继而边咏边叹：“乳瓯十分满，人世真局促”。名茶既能给人充分的享受：“清风击两腋，去欲凌鸿鹄”，“意爽飘欲仙，头轻快如沐”，又不免悲叹名茶辱没： “团凤与葵花，碔砆杂鱼目”，“未致日注卑，定知双井辱”。在《和钱安道寄惠建茶》诗里，诗人用历史人物的性格来比拟不同的茶味：“雪花雨脚何足道，啜过始知真味永。纵复苦硬终可录，汲黯少戆宽饶猛。草茶无赖空有名，高者妖邪次顽懭。 体轻虽复强浮沉，性滞偏工呕酸冷。其间绝品岂不佳，张禹纵贤非骨鲠。”借茶味而褒扬“戆”“猛”之士，贬斥“妖” “顽”之辈，嬉笑怒骂，皆成妙句。诗最后云：“收藏爱惜待佳客，不敢包裹钻权幸。此诗有味君勿传，空使时人怒生瘿。” 讥之以好茶钻营权门的小人。 苏轼之多才多艺，于我国茶艺的贡献亦是“一多”。 （阮浩耕） (9) Huang Tingjian 黄庭坚（１０４５～１１０５年），字鲁直，号山谷道人，又号涪翁，洪州分宁（今江西修水）人。北宋诗人、书法家。 人间风日不到处，天上玉堂森宝书。 想见东坡旧居士，挥毫百斛泻明珠。 我家江南摘云腴，落磑霏霏雪不如。 为君唤起黄州梦，独载扁舟向五湖。 诗人家乡出产一种叶子长得特别丰腴的名茶，叫双井茶。 元佑二年（公元１０８７年）诗人在京任职时，老家有人给捎来了一些，他马上想到分送给好友苏东坡品尝，并写下了这首情深意切的《双井茶送子瞻》诗，一并送赠苏东坡。诗人以送茶表示自己的一番诚意和真挚友情，又借品茶含蓄地规劝东坡，要吸取教训，不要忘掉被贬黄州的旧事啊！ 黄庭坚早年嗜酒，中年因病止酒，越加爱茶，“煮茗当酒倾”，更精于茶道。他有《奉同六舅尚书咏茶碾煎烹三首