Chapter 37 Section 37 Dongpo Spring Dove

Kuai is a very old word, and there are many records in old books: Kui, finely sliced ​​meat——"Shuowen"; Dongfang Shuo Zhuan"; never tired of food, never tired of fine food - "The Analects of Confucius Xiangdang".It is well-known that "everyone loves to eat finely chopped barbecue", and now it specifically refers to poems and essays that the public likes to read. "Dongpo Collection" contains: "Shu people expensive celery buds, mixed dove meat for it."Su Dongpo, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, was demoted to Huangzhou to serve as the Deputy Envoy of the Tuanlian. During his exiled life in Huangzhou, he wrote lyrics and drank wine, creating a generation of heroic writing style and exquisite food.Spring dove is fried with shredded turtledove breast with celery, a Hakka dish.However, Shu celery is no match for Chu Qi. "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals" says: "The most beautiful dish is the celery of Yunmeng."The celery of Yunmeng is Chuqi, or the celery of Qichun, Hubei.During the days when Mr. Su Dongpo was in Huangzhou, he often walked around, writing poems and drinking wine at the same time.

In spring, Su Dongpo came to Luozhou, a state adjacent to Huangzhou, which is today Qizhou Town, Qichun County, Huanggang City.This Luozhou has been very famous from the Northern Qi Dynasty to the Southern Song Dynasty, with rich products, luxurious urban construction, and beautiful scenery, especially its unique specialties, Qicai, Qiai, Qigui, Qiqi snake, and Qizhu. Mr. Su Dongpo eats and uses them. Spring doves made of Qi vegetables.In the Northern Song Dynasty, the turtledove was still an ordinary bird, and it was very easy to obtain. The pigeon was domesticated from the turtledove, but the turtledove had a wide breast, narrow wing tips, and a long neck, so it was not suitable for long-distance flying.Take the breast meat of the turtle dove, finely cut it into fine shreds, then cut some slices of Qi, shredded ginger, and dried shreds of cloves, mix the shreds of turtle dove with egg white, put the chives and gorgon and grab them evenly, heat tea oil in a pot, and throw the shreds of turtle dove into the pot Fry and pick up, stir-fry Qi section, shredded ginger, and dried clove. The smell of wild birds and turtledove silk combined with the fresh taste of spring, it is really fresh and refreshing, and it is a delicacy to accompany wine.

Mr. Su Dongpo ate spring doves in Luozhou City, and then went to visit outside Luozhou City. Weeping willows on both sides of the Qi River, frogs singing and birds singing, Qi green and water white, small bridges and fishing boats. The couplet "The sky is in the water, the Liuzang bridge in spring", suddenly felt interesting, but also regretful, so I went there and wrote "Liuzang bridge in spring". "Ji Rongtian is in the water, and the spring scenery willow hidden bridge", the change of one word will make the pair perfect. After Su Dongpo traveled to Luozhou and returned to Huangzhou, he brought back the spring doves. Dongpo’s spring doves were added by later generations. The original meaning is that Su Dongpo is a great poet and gourmet in the world. The style of the spring dove is to stir-fry the turtledove with the celery of Yunmeng, the first bird of the pigeon.