Chapter 35 Chapter 35 Fish should be eaten three times

one To eat Wuchang fish, you must visit Liangzi Island.People on the island said: Huangshan does not look at the mountains when they return, and Liangzi does not eat fish when he leaves.Maybe Huangshan can still look at the mountain after returning, but if you leave Liangzi Island, you will really not be able to erase the waves in your memory.The lake, the water, and the waves have always nurtured the beauty of Wuchang fish, with its unique appearance and charming posture. After all, it is necessary to say "come to Liangzi Island, for the sake of Wuchang fish". Wuchang fish is native to Liangzi Lake. In this winter, you can see green aquatic plants swaying softly in the clear waves. In summer, there are green lotuses and edges. wind.Wuchang fish forage for aquatic plants, play, grow and love each other in the water.When winter comes, they swim to the backflow of the Yangtze River in Fankou to avoid the cold.Wuchang fish is commonly known as group head bream and shrinking bream.According to the records of Wuchang, bream, that is, bream, also known as bream, is the best in the world.This is a place where the water is swirling, and the deep pool has no bottom. The fisherman catches it with a keel, and the taste of the keel is more than that of other places. At the same time, it is true that "the scales are white and there is no black membrane in the abdomen." "Today's Ezhou was called Echeng in the old days, and Echeng was also called Wuchang in ancient times. Liangzi Lake is located in the southwest of it, with a water area of ​​600,000 mu. The place where Liangzi Lake connects to the river is Fankou. The water potential of Fankou gyrates, and there are large and small backflows." Those who are in Fankou are called Dahui, and those who are under Diaotai are called Xiaohui" ("Wuchang County Chronicles"). In the Tang Dynasty, there was a song in Yuan Jie that said: "Fankou wants to flow eastward, and the great river wants to come north. Fankou should be its south. For big back.Back to the middle of the fish is easy to swim, back to the middle of more hooks.If you want to be a fisherman, you will never get what you want. "The song said: "Huizhong fish" is Wuchang fish.

There are three ways to eat Wuchang fish.Steamed Wuchang fish is the choice of most people, and it belongs to the popular imagination. One fresh Wuchang fish, remove the scales, gills and intestines, spread oil and salt on the full moon-like wide body, fill the belly with minced meat and ginger and spring onion, and put it on a plate Put it on the pot and steam it. Steaming Wuchang fish can keep the freshness of Wuchang fish better, and it is an original way of eating.Stewed Wuchang fish is naturally also a good way to eat. The best way is to sit on a fishing boat and watch the fishermen catch Wuchang fish, or cast a net by yourself, catch Wuchang fish, and kill it. Light a fire at the bow, sit on an iron pot, fry both sides slightly, scoop up the lake water with a sizzling sound and put it into the pot to stew until the soup is as white as milk, eat the meat and drink the soup, and have a pot of strong Tongheyi wine, The fishing boat is rippling, and the waves are shining, this wine is very smooth!Eating Wuchang fish in the sun is another taste. It evaporates the delicious water, air-dries the harvest time, and steams it with chili, ginger, and green onions. It is like drinking green tea, before the tender green tea leaves After brewing and drinking, it is kneaded and dried to make green tea. It is still the most tender tea in the world, and the taste of dried Wuchang fish is also the same.

The Wuchang fish in Liangzi Island are dominated by bitter grass and hydrilla, both of which are aquatic plants in Liangzi Lake and Fankou Port. The Wuchang fish has a round head, thick back, thin flesh, a flat body in the shape of a diamond, a wide mouth, and a dorsal fin. Short, high tail peduncle, with fourteen ribs on each side, one more rib than Changchun bream, triangular bream and other bream.Every 100 grams of Wuchang fish contains 61 grams of water, 20.8 grams of protein, 15.8 grams of fat, 0.9 grams of carbohydrates, 229 kcal of calories, 155 mg of calcium, 195 mg of phosphorus, 2.2 mg of iron, 0.08 mg of riboflavin, and 1.8 mg of niacin .

two Liangzi Island is also called Longevity Island. Among the 2,000 people on the island, there are 14 centenarians. In the early years, it was just a fishing village. In the earlier time, fishermen lived on the boat all the year round. When fishermen got married, the bride’s new house was a A boat, covered with a piece of red cloth, swayed in the waves for a long time.Later, fishermen began to build houses on the island, and a fishing village with bluestone slabs was formed.People in the fishing village are very good at making fish balls. The fish balls in Liangzi Island are smooth, elastic, delicate and mellow, and taste delicious, so you must eat fish balls in Liangzi Island.Good fish balls are made from the meat of white fish (called Diaozi fish in Jianghan area, and Qiaozuibai in southeastern Hubei). It must be a large white fish, and the thornless meat on both sides should be cut off with a knife. , make meat paste, mix with starch and egg white, stir it with long chopsticks, and knead it into balls when it is very loose, and put it in the pot.The pot is filled with warm water, and the fish balls are floating on top of it. During this time, the fish balls should be made continuously and the soup should be raised to stop the boiling. It is just right when the whole pot of fish balls is placed and the water boils.Making fish balls is the most important process of making fish meat into puree. After the boneless fish is sliced ​​out from the fish, there are three ways to make fish into puree: one is to use a meat blender, commonly known as semi-automatic, which is A high-efficiency processing method that is neither strenuous nor pleasing. Most people now adopt this method to dilute the pleasing effect of the production process, but only to taste it quickly; the second is the knife chopping method. There is a sound of thumping, and the fish meat gradually becomes ooze under the dense knife. The efficiency of this method is inferior to the machine stirring method, but the quality is better than the machine stirring method. It gives people a fresh feeling; the third is the knife scraping method, take fresh fish, remove its skin, and scrape gently, what you scrape up is very fine minced meat, scrape until you want to see the fish red, stop.The meat paste scraped with a knife is extremely fine and uniform, but its efficiency is low, and it is probably used when making the best fish balls.

Eat the fish balls on Liangzi Island. They are extremely elastic. You can bite the fish balls through the mouth, but they will not be flattened. Even the last piece is still an effective elastic unit.Use the water for cooking fish balls and add fish balls to make a hot pot, serve with some radishes or tofu, and taste it carefully, as if you can feel the tension of time. Under the urging of the fire, it boils and jumps, like launching upwards from the bottom of the pot The delicious bullets, ups and downs, toss in the soup like life.Therefore, fish balls are a ball-shaped symbol that can be read. Fish balls are also called fish balls, but balls are not as elastic and tense as meatballs.

three There is also a secret method of making fish on Liangzi Island that is rarely known to outsiders, that is, pickled fish.Salted fish and bacon is a traditional Chinese delicacy. Liangzidao people turned it into a craft, and it is indeed a pioneering work to make salted fish into beautiful and delicious handicrafts.Most of us have had similar experiences. The more flavorful local famous food, the more complicated and cumbersome the process, which is time-consuming, labor-intensive and labor-intensive.Liangzidao salted fish looks so organized and disciplined, well-trained, and those salted fish that are placed in the round containers that are made to dry are also pleasing to the eye.

A careful study of Liangzidao’s pickling method reveals that it is very different from Jiangnan’s personal pickling experience. The professional pickling method is simple and smooth, like killing Wuchang fish, usually with one knife on the belly, one knife on the back, and one knife on the belly. It is to remove the internal organs, and a knife on the back is to insert salt.Other fish species, such as redtail, crucian carp, grass carp, carp, etc., are all cut from the back.I once saw Meng Xianhua, an islander, pickle the grass carp, and Meng Xianhua killed the grass carp cleanly and sharply with three cuts. I privately defined it as "Meng Xianhua three cuts".First, cut the back of the fish, from the mouth to the tail, to completely open the inside of the fish, then cut the tip of the knife along the inside of the fish's spine, and then cut along the outside of the fish's spine, remove the viscera and sprinkle salt That's it, about 10 catties of fish use 1 tael and 6 qian of salt.

After further inquiring, I found that the methods of salting fish in Liangzidao people are almost the same, as if they were standardized according to a production standard.The salt standard is one aspect, and the pickling time is another aspect.For example, it takes 2 hours to marinate Wuchang fish and 8 hours for medium-sized carp. Once the time is up, the fish will be washed and dried in the lake.The only difference between the pickled fish in Liangzi Island is that each company has its own fish species. Some specialize in pickling redtail and yellowtail, some specialize in pickling Wuchang fish, and some specialize in pickling squid (鲤鱼). Also known as "yellow diamond" and "pole fish", it was called virtuous widower fish in ancient times. It belongs to the fish class Cyprinidae. Thirty to forty catties, ferocious temperament, prey on other fish).The pickled Wuchang fish on Liangzi Island is sold in blocks. If they sold 60 Wuchang fish, it would be said that they sold 60 Wuchang fish.

The pickled fish in Liangzi Island is clean, beautiful, no peculiar smell, suitable for dry and wet, shiny and delicate like fish specimens, walking on the streets of Liangzi Island, there are pickled fish all over the street, but there is no smell of fish taste.I remember that in the past when I pickled fish personally, I always had to increase the insurance factor, add more salt, take longer to marinate, and take a long time to dry, so it tasted as hard as a rock, salty as salt, and stinky as fermented bean curd. The so-called self-defeating is just that. stop.The pickled fish in Liangzidao can be eaten in three ways: one is steamed, served with chili oil, sesame oil, tea oil, shredded ginger, and fermented soy beans and steamed in a pot with rice, the salted fish is soft and the cured meat is overflowing, it is exciting; , cut the salted fish into pieces, fry until both sides are browned, add seasonings and water to simmer, and leave the pot for a long time. , is a very tempting way of eating, it coincides with the hidden memories of human beings in the era of fishing and hunting.

Wuchang's fish tastes the best in the world, but there is still a political topic in history that is suitable for eating or not. In the first year of Ganlu in the Eastern Wu Dynasty (AD 265), the last emperor Sun Hao wanted to move the capital from Jianye to Wuchang again.Lu Kai, the prime minister of the left, went to the Shu to dissuade him, and the Shu Zhong wrote "I would rather drink Jianye water than eat Wuchang fish", so Wuchang fish became famous.Afterwards, literati and ink writers of all dynasties wrote poems to echo it. I don't know whether it is fortunate or unfortunate for Wuchang fish.

Gengxin's poem in the Northern Zhou Dynasty: "I still think about Jianye water, and finally remember Wuchang fish" (one of the ten poems in "His Royal Highness Fenghe Jiufeng Yanzhi"). In the Tang Dynasty, Cen Shen wrote in a poem: "In autumn, I remember Wuchang fish, and the dream soul is only in Baling Road" ("Send Fei Zi to Wuchang"). Su Shi's poem in the Song Dynasty: "You can know the beauty of fish when you go around the Yangtze River, and you can feel the fragrance of bamboo shoots when you are connected with bamboo" ("First Arrival in Huangzhou"). Fan Cheng's great poem in the Song Dynasty: "But laugh at the fisherman in the Perch River, and the fish in Wuchang will be drowned when they are good" ("Ezhou Nanlou Poem"). In the Yuan Dynasty, Mazu often wrote a poem: "Come back with your children to worship the hills, and don't forget Wuchang fish when you travel south" ("Send Song Xianfu to the South"). In the Ming Dynasty, He Jingming wrote a poem: "Let's go here and follow Peng Liyan, why not eat Wuchang fish" ("Send Wei Jinshi to Push Wuchang"). Wang Xuanxi's poem in the Ming Dynasty: "Mo Dao Wuchang fish is delicious, and the universe is difficult to worry about in this life"; Liang Dingfen in the Qing Dynasty named his study "Fish Fish Studio" because he liked to eat Wuchang fish; Contemporary Mao Zedong's poem written in 1958: Shui Tune Ge Tou - Swimming He drank Changsha water and ate Wuchang fish.Thousands of miles across the Yangtze River, Chu Tianshu is as far as the eye can see.Regardless of the wind and waves, it is better than strolling in the courtyard, and today I have a spare time.Zi Zaichuan said: "The dead are like husbands!"The wind and mast move, the tortoise and snake are still, and a grand plan is created.A bridge flies from north to south, and the natural moat becomes a thoroughfare.The stone walls of the Xijiang River were erected more, the clouds and rain in Wushan were cut off, and the high gorge came out of Pinghu.The goddess should be safe, but the world should be shocked.