Chapter 32 Hakka Yong Tau Foo

When I was in southern Jiangxi when I was young, my love for tofu was probably tofu nao and moldy fermented bean curd.I especially like tofu nao. Every time I make tofu at home, I have to leave a bowl for my grandma. The most tender thing in the world is tofu nao, I think.On the contrary, I don’t have a deep memory of stuffed tofu. One time I went back to Gannan, my aunt seemed to mention it to me, but I didn’t turn my head around, and I didn’t specifically soak beans to make tofu.When I was young, I still had a preference for bean curd. I pushed the stone to grind the soaked beans. The mill could turn quickly and silently. After the beans were soaked, they were soft and slippery. The soy milk was like a lubricant between the upper and lower grinds.When you grow up, all interesting things are no longer interesting. This is an irresistible law of life.

When I went to Shenzhen in spring, it was when the kapok trees were in bloom. The kapok trees had no leaves, and huge red kapoks bloomed on the decadent branches. The kapok trees stood along the street, making the whole street red. up.Kapok, reported the Southern Spring.After getting off the plane at Bao'an Airport, we walked through Banyan Street and Kapok Street, took a short break, and went to "Hakka Customs". The host Fang Da knew that I was a Hakka, so this arrangement was very thoughtful.The Hakka style can be regarded as a medium-sized restaurant. I am ashamed that I can't speak Hakka anymore. When I want to speak, I seem to be unable to open my mouth.After leaving the Hakka context for so many years, I had to return to my hometown to stay for a long time before I could recover almost half of my language ability. I was born clumsy at speaking, and I once lost my voice in order to learn Beijing dialect, and I almost developed a habit of stuttering.

I ordered, white-cut chicken, crock pot chicken soup, etc., which are indispensable in Hakka dishes. I drank Hakka rice wine and tried to speak a few Hakka words to the waiter when serving the dishes. He couldn’t understand me, and I couldn’t understand him. Yes, simply concentrate on drinking.White-cut chicken, some people call it white-cut chicken, the taste of this chicken is indeed Hakka, small native chicken, oily yellow skin, fragrant and soft, dipped in seasoning, brought back some extremely distant taste memories.However, the entire cuisine is still far from the Hakka cuisine in Gannan. I am also very confused about this situation, because once, I ordered a table of dishes in a restaurant in Zuoan Town, and the food tasted not as good as the dishes at home. Is it the same taste in restaurants all over the world?Zuo'an Town is a town where fairs are held in small hours. This fair should be pronounced xu (virtual), which is the same as fairs in the north. Zuo'an Town is a fair on February 48th. On fair days, the villagers do not have to do production, so they all go to fairs for business. Whether or not.In rural China, if there were no such things as fairs and fairs, the monotony of life would make people panic.

Hakka restaurants still maintain the ancient style, the wooden tables and chairs are solid and clumsy, earthen bowls, earthen bowls and earthen pots, everything can lead people back to the distant hometown, to the tradition, to that time.How much love there will be in life, I can only give the petal of my heart, the hometown love that has been cherished for a long time.However, I am in the southern country of Shenzhen, a subtropical land.Sometimes, when I think about my hometown, it hurts, but when I go back to my hometown, I think of going to a distant place.How often do you feel homesick?According to legend, during the Western Jin and Northern Song Dynasties, the well-dressed clan moved southward, and the Hakka people trekked from the Central Plains to the south and set up camp in the most isolated and remote mountainous areas.My ancestors, from the Central Plains to Meizhou and then from Meizhou to southern Jiangxi, the Hakka people missed the Central Plains, the land that was lost and separated, and there was no wheat flour in the south to make dumplings, so they came up with stuffed tofu.

Stuffed tofu, matchbox-sized tofu is deep-fried until golden brown, and stuffed with pork and fish is stuffed into the tofu. In short, it is to cut a mouthful of fried tofu, stuff the meat into it, and smear the outside to adjust the moisture. Seal the seal with starch, put chopped green onion and sesame oil in a chicken soup clay pot and simmer until the aroma is overflowing, then serve it up.The word brewing obviously does not refer to fermentation. It may be a verb in the Song Dynasty or before the Song Dynasty. In short, in the Hakka context, everything should not be explained in detail. For example, when it rains, the Hakka dialect still says "falling into the water". Don't use today's logic to understand, it's not like something fell into the water.Falling into the water, or falling into the water, there are two kinds of understanding today and yesterday.

However, I sometimes suspect that Yong Tau Foo was created because I missed the dumplings in the Central Plains. According to the local rules, everything must be marked with a source.Originally ground tofu fried until golden, with meat filling and various spices inside, green onion and green vegetable leaves on the outside, cooked in chicken broth, anyone can imagine how it tastes.Probably I want to eat it too much (in order to write articles), so I lose some of my nature, and the matter of food is to enter a state of ecstasy.Finally got a little drunk, a bit of style, a bit of nostalgia, a bit of Hakka, Fang Da is also a former colleague, after a round of wine, the sky in Shenzhen shook a little.