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Chapter 57 mighty beijing

pig and butterfly 冯唐 5916Words 2018-03-18
mighty beijing Feng Tang The first time I felt that Beijing is mighty and boundless was in the second grade of elementary school.I was born in a place called weeping willow in the eastern suburbs of Beijing, where I have never seen a weeping willow with the style of the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the poetic flavor of the late Tang Dynasty. There is a kind of bug called hanged ghost, and the working class walks all over the street. The clothes are gray and the eyes are big. No matter how you look at it, you don't look like the master of this country.On a bitter summer night, the working-class men are shirtless, and the working-class women are not wearing bras. In order to save electricity, they turn off the noisy fans at home, or sit or stand around the poplar and locust trees, and don’t care about the foreign thorns and hangers-on. The existence of dead ghosts.I walk 354 steps to Chuiyangliu Central Primary School every day, and 354 steps home for dinner.One day in the second grade of my elementary school, the school organized to go to the auditorium of the People’s Printing Machinery Factory to watch "Nezha Naohai", from Chuiyangliu Middle Street to the easternmost end of Chuiyangliu South Street, as children, we walked hand in hand, A full 1003 steps, so far away, my hands were sore from being pulled.After the movie ended, I stood on Chuiyangliu South Street and looked at the East Third Ring South Road next to it. At that time, there was no overpass. It was such a big river. The 212 jeeps and 130 trucks passing by were all lumps of river water. , across the river is the workshop of the People's Printing Machinery Factory, like another distant city.The sea is more ferocious than this big river. I thought, the Dragon King is really abominable, and Nezha's brain must have been kicked by the donkey's hind hoof. How could he make trouble across the sea.When I grew up, I lay on my back and became a wooden boat with my penis erected and my underwear as a sail. When the westerly wind blows, I will sail away, cross this great river, and leave Beijing.

1.Where is this city? The geography book said: "In the late Mesozoic Era more than 100 million years ago, a strong orogenic movement occurred in eastern China, with volcanic eruptions, crustal changes, and mountain uplifts. This is the famous 'Yanshan Movement'." After the movement The Beijing area is surrounded by mountains on three sides, with a plain in the middle, and opens to the southeast, like a bay. Beijing and its surrounding areas can be vividly called "Beijing Bay".When the barbarians in Mobei came here, in winter, they felt that the north wind could still be like a knife, and the setting sun could be like blood. They decided that this was a place where they could settle down in a certain form without gradually losing their brutality and simplicity. The southernmost point of judgment.Further south, after crossing the Huaihe River, the warm wind blowing along the banks of the willows will melt the swords, the drunken snails and yellow croakers will give birth to the belly fat of the cavalry, and the women with mouths as small as cherries and milk as small as walnuts will soften the heads of the tribal leaders. body and mind.The Han people in the south of the Yangtze River also gradually realized an important law in Chinese history: the so-called Central Plains in the southeast of Beijing is safe to defend, and aliens from the north invade. perish.Therefore, seeking peace and safety, Ming Chengzu Zhu Di did not covet the warm wind in the south of the Yangtze River, drunk mud snails, and little beauties with milk, so he moved his capital to Beijing, and felt the threat of Saibei in the sandstorm, and was always vigilant in the threat.

The embryonic form of Beijing was established by the Mongols in the Yuan Dynasty, and it has remained unchanged until now. Three points stand out: One, boxy.Establish the design of the central axis, "Zuozu Youshe, facing the future market". In the big city, a large road intersects the central axis perpendicularly. The central part is to the north of the road. The front of the central part is the imperial court, the rear is the market, and the left is the Taimiao, on the right is the Sheji Altar, which is clear.This avenue has been repeatedly built and expanded by generations of megalomaniacs and nihilistic nationalists, forming the inhumane Chang'an Avenue today.The widest part is nearly 100 meters, and it is basically used for tanks to drive and fighter jets to take off and land. The little old lady and the old man with a bad heart cross the road and take a piece of nitroglycerin under their tongue first.In Shanghai or Hong Kong and other cities built along the sea, within a distance of 100 meters, I have already had my hair trimmed, my feet washed, my clothes ate, I bought vegetables, I nailed my shoes, I sent letters to my friends.An old dean of the Urban Planning Institute told me, don’t laugh, the chiefs standing on Tiananmen Square for the military parade can comfortably see new fighter jets flying across the sky as soon as they look up, on both sides of Chang’an Street, even in Dongsanmen Square In the vicinity of the ring, the height of buildings should also be limited to 200 meters. Around 2000, developers began to speculate on the concept of CBD. The simple Dabeiyao Bridge was also renamed Guomao Bridge. All the nearby real estate boasted the "golden cross" formed by Chang'an Avenue and the East Third Ring Road. A French I know The designer was also invited to do the overall planning and functional positioning of the CBD. He told me honestly, what kind of golden cross is this? The Sixth Ring Road, seen from the plane, is like a tight circle of the city.

Second, it is due south and north.In the capital of Yuan Dynasty, the streets are straight, with south and north, west and east.Recently, the only crooked streets such as Huashi Xiejie have been eliminated due to urban construction, leaving only Yandai Xiejie near Houhai, formed by the lake, still there.The Mongols are not good at mathematics. If it was Columbus who came to Beijing, after the construction of this four-square, square, south-north-north city, those running from north to south would be called streets, and those running from east to west would be called roads. The streets would be numbered, one, two, three. Four or five, A, B, C, D, E.If so, by now, taking a taxi to go to the bureau, there will be a lot of talk with the taxi driver.The Mongols are not Columbus, so when you go to a place you have never been to, you must first ask about the nearby landmarks.At the end of the 1980s, mobile phones were basically used in the military. To install a fixed line, you have to bribe the employees of the telecommunications bureau to wait in line and pay a deposit of 5,000 yuan. One of my elder brothers started a business, and workers under the poplar tree The class said, do you want steel, do you want train wagons, do you want passenger planes made in the Soviet Union.Looking at it now, the business card of the eldest brother at that time is still practical: office address, 50 meters southwest of No. 102 Middle School, the second floor of Chuiyangliu West District, phone number, 6787864, let Xiao Lingzi's mother call.

Third, build a city close to water.The petty lotus pond water system in Abandoned Gold Zhongdu is centered on the Gaoliang River water system connected from above, and the Grand Canal leading to the south of the Yangtze River was dug. The north end of the canal is Shichahai.So Beijing has water to drink and water features. The drunk mud snails transported by waterways are basically fresh, and they won’t cause stomach upset after eating them. The little milk beauties brought in still have melancholy eyes. "Slow".Shichahai, Beihai, and Zhongnanhai are connected together, which is extremely luxurious for a city.The design of Central Park in Manhattan, New York and the Golden Gate Bridge Park in San Francisco are inspired by this, so bankers on Wall Street can only stretch out the waterscape today, so as not to go crazy in large numbers, and gays in San Francisco can enjoy the big lawn of the park in broad daylight Hand in hand, walk and walk, calm and calm, like the seven men known as BAMBOO SEVEN in the Wei and Jin Dynasties.The French designer told me that after the founding of New China, the biggest regret of the city of Beijing was not the demolition of the city walls, but the fact that Shichahai, Beihai, and Zhongnanhai were not combined together to build an open park for the working class who are the masters of the country to nourish their souls. .

The day before the Frenchman returned to China, there was a sandstorm in Beijing, the universe was prehistoric, and the sky and the earth were chaotic and red. The French walked excitedly on Chang'an Avenue and asked me, is this the legendary Mars?I think of a day long ago, when I accompanied my first love to listen to the organ in the Zhongshan Concert Hall, when I came out, there was also a sandstorm, all the stars disappeared, and all the street lights looked like stars.We walked along Chang'an Avenue to Guomao, and then walked along the East Third Ring Road to Tuanjie Lake. My first love had a firm expression and her hair was flying. She smiled. I saw magnolias blooming on the street. She sang "Sunset" "The Red Dragonfly in ", I think it sounds much better than the singing of birds.I asked her, are you from Mars?My first love said: "I really doubt whether you are a child from Beijing. If you want to praise me for looking like a fairy, just look at me with your eyes, straighten your tongue, and say it directly, without beating around the moon or Mars."

2.What evening is this evening? The most indispensable thing in Beijing is history. There are 19 world cultural heritages in China 2000 years ago, and Beijing accounts for 6 of them.And unlike Xi'an and other cities that were once brilliant, all of Beijing's history is alive or not dead at all.I went to Xi'an once quickly. The Mausoleum of Qin Shihuang looks like Jingshan Mountain from a distance, but it is not a park and climbing is not allowed. Huaqing Pool looks like a bathhouse dug by a private enterprise in the backyard.Ten years ago, when I climbed the Great Wall of Huanghua City, the peasant brothers sold me a corn for one yuan, and a brick of the 500-year-old Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty for ten yuan.In spring, I went to the Temple of Heaven with my girl, picked shepherd's purse under the wall, picked tender wolfberry leaves, fried it with eggs at noon, and boiled clear soup.The wind blows over, there is no dust, no poplars and catkins. I watched a dead branch shake off from a huge cypress tree. The cypress tree has such a thick waist, and it should be three or four hundred years old.When I was having dinner with so-called artists, at a certain dinner party, a certain girl was eye-catching, with arrogant facial features, and a beastly look in her eyes, as if she was not of my race.According to people who are familiar with the situation, this girl has a certain percentage of Manchu blood and a certain percentage of Mongolian blood. She used her lower body to fight against Emperor Xianfeng. If the Qing Dynasty survived, she It will be a gag. In 2005, in Zhouyuan, Shaanxi Province, a tomb of the princely level of the Western Zhou Dynasty with four passages was discovered, and it was opened empty.I was joking with a few antique bosses, pulling two cars of armed police to block all the entrances and exits of the Beijing Antique City on the East Third Ring Road, prying open all safes and hidden door locks, stripping off all the clothes of the antique bosses, and searching all places where things can be hidden ( Including the various holes on the body of the antique boss, there is no guarantee that there will be no complete set of cicada-containing nose plugs, ear plugs, and anal plugs made of high-quality white jade in the Western Han Dynasty), which will present the largest archaeological discovery in China in 2005.

A long history is of course good, the nation can be proud, and it can dilute many current problems.In the long history of Beijing, the most exaggerated is the Peking Man in Zhoukoudian.The site of the Paleolithic Age more than 500,000 years ago is of great significance.Almost all new species arise in Africa, such as Ebola and AIDS.Western academic circles believe that, except for China, all other primitive humans originated in Africa.This kind of recognition is extremely rare. After so many years of digging Erligang in Zhengzhou, Erlitou, Yanshi, Henan, the West still does not recognize the existence of the Xia Dynasty, let alone the Three Emperors and Five Emperors. In their eyes, Chinese civilization is less than 5,000 years old.The only skull of a Beijinger who mysteriously disappeared in the Union Hospital later must have been done by the Japanese, as if people in the 1960s did not learn any homework well, and it was the gang of four who killed them.It seems that some broken bones and teeth were found later, and according to experts who had seen the lost skull, it must have been from the same group of people, and the evidence is convincing.It must also be true that the United States landed on the moon in the 1960s.When I was doing tumor research, I occasionally heard that my colleagues had made very gratifying scientific research results, and then it was reported that the animal models accidentally got lost or were killed and eaten by wandering migrant workers, so additional research funding was needed to re-cultivate rabbits and mice , these should also be true.

The dead or dying histories are gathered together and live in museums.They gave me a set of Beijing museum tickets, 80 yuan, which can visit hundreds of museums.My heart was drooling, and I fantasized about having time to take an extremely long vacation, visiting the Red Sandalwood Museum with my boss who knew Ming and Qing furniture, visiting the Forbidden City with my boss who knew calligraphy and painting, and visiting the National Museum with my boss who knew bronze, porcelain and jade.A Shanghainese asked, always saying that Beijing has culture, and most Beijingers don’t even know the names of these museums, let alone have been there, you may not necessarily go there once in your life.I say the reason is very simple, the most luxurious thing is not how much you actually enjoy, but the power and freedom to enjoy, that's why mobile phones have the functions of taking pictures and watching movies, and that's why middle-aged men are envious of the emperor's Sangong Liuyuan.

I think, like a teapot, the tea leaves are soaked in the teapot for a period of time, even if the tea is drunk, even if the tea leaves are poured out, the tea gas is still there.Beijing is a big teapot.Too many powerful, rich, and temperamental people have been soaked in Beijing like tea leaves. Even if the power is gone, the money, the temperament, and the temperament are exhausted, even if the person is dead, the popularity is still there, just like the tea.Ghosts have no weight, I think, the popularity of the dead will not be very heavy, just like sandstorms, floating over the city for decades, hundreds or thousands of years.In the complex and rich city, living people become ghosts, bosses I have known, girls I have liked, my memories of them are like inhalable particles, the sky is gray, the taxi that drove me across the Warwick Bridge, a trance , I heard a big voice: Take a closer look at this white jade chicken heart pendant, is it brushed or silk patterned, is it from the Western Han Dynasty or a Song Dynasty imitation?Take a closer look.I heard a female voice singing: "Red Dragonfly in the sunset, where are you? I met you when I was young. What day was that?"

3.Who is he? I have my own criteria for judging the degree of familiarity with a city.Familiarity means that I know where there is good food in this city, and I know where the wine is good and cheap.I am very familiar with the best restaurants in the city. The boss or the proprietress is my friend. If I drink too much, someone will send me home or to the hospital.Very familiar: I went to the most delicious restaurant in the city, the boss or the proprietress would go out of the kitchen by himself, stir-fry the dishes on the table, the boss and I had the first bowl of wine or the proprietress watched me take the first bite of food and drank to a high , I was sent to the hospital, and at the door of the emergency room, there were more than four doctors and brothers waiting to see my bear appearance. If classified in this way, the only city I am extremely familiar with is Beijing. A Shanghai native was serious. After Shanghai became the economic capital, he said that only with economic strength can we talk about culture. He asked why Beijing is the cultural capital.It is easy to understand if you go to nightclubs in Beijing, listen to the chats, and get to know the people in the nightclubs.More than 50% of China's top writers, painters, sculptors, musicians, singers, underground bands, actors, photographers, and architectural designers are concentrated in Beijing. When you walk into a place where these people often gather, you will see a Cross-section, some have become famous, some are still in the mix, the famous, not necessarily talented, but really hardworking, in the mix, some have a strong talent, lingering and lingering in the eyes.I look at those talented people who have just debuted, and I know that some of these people must be immortal to some extent, even though these people may still smell of sweat and have long nose hairs, and have not found a suitable way to express themselves. I have never used a credit card and can’t speak pure Mandarin, just like when I was on Palm Street in Stanford University, listening to those young men who can’t speak well talking about their business plans, what about angiogenesis inhibitors to treat tumors, What DNA chip, I know these people will create the next Pfizer and HP sooner or later.On a sauna day in Beijing, I listened to Xu Wei’s first solo concert at Gongti with a ticket. His voice cracked when he sang a third of the way, and his ears were cut like a voice file. At the end of the song, he Finally couldn't hold it anymore and cried, he must have remembered how many people hadn't gotten out in the past ten years since he came to Beijing.A girl sitting in the front row of me had countless holes pierced all over her body, wore countless metal rings, waved a fluorescent stick, and shouted, Xu Wei, I love you.I thought to myself, another little gangster has come out. An American intellectual said that Beijing is most like New York, but Shanghai is not, too much, so what if there is a stock market.In Beijing and New York, one has to be non-mainstream to be in the stream (You have to be out to be in), while in Shanghai, one has to be in the stream to be in the stream (You have to be in to be in).We have a canteen near the Agricultural Exhibition Hall on the East Third Ring Road. It has no name, no neon signs, concrete floors, concrete walls, and local Jinhua vegetables.Ai Weiwei's design is calm and dry in the signature style, without any extra bits and pieces.Paul Korchagin's phrase "When you look back on the past..." influenced my first half of my life. Ai Weiwei said that people should not pursue a happy life. Happiness is like sugar, it is just a taste of life. This sentence I often think that it may affect the rest of my life.In the cafeteria, I saw all kinds of non-mainstream people: a violinist suspected of autism, who never looked in the eyes when he spoke, could not tell his age from his face, and only let go of alcohol when he was old. I call her Aunt, and all the records she released are in foreign languages. It is said that she is the first violin in China, including both men and women.There is a writer who hasn't written anything for twenty years, and his knowledge of ancient jade and old furniture is far higher than his knowledge of words. Since childhood, the only official job he has ever had is to be his father's secretary in the Writers Association. His father passed away a long time ago, and he has always been his father's secretary, receiving a monthly salary from the Writers Association.There is an old poet with white hair, no job, and married a girl born in the 1980s. The girl's father is two years younger than him and calls him big brother. He also bought a house with a loan and gave birth to a fat son.The old poet often advises me, don’t be greedy, the post-80s married him and Yang Zhenning, and in two years, the post-90s will fall in love with me, one after another, wait patiently, don’t worry.In short, except for me, I have basically never met a person who needs to wear a suit and tie to work from 9 to 5.The only exception is a director of the tax bureau, who is almost fifty, drank too much a day, and kept repeating that he should soon be promoted to deputy director. He has worked so hard, and the deputy director is awesome.A sister always smiles, drinks very little wine, eats green vegetables, and finally can't help it, saying, are you finished?When my dad entered the Politburo, you hadn’t graduated from middle school, so what? Now you still watch the news broadcast like a fool every day, measure your blood sugar to see if your diabetes is better, who is the second prime minister used by Emperor Yongzheng? Does anyone remember, I think you should save your energy. Once I drank a little too much, I dialed my first love's mobile phone with the strength of alcohol, and asked her if she was near the cafeteria, if she was driving, and could take me home.Her car was driving fast and steady. I said that Beijing was starting to lose energy. Those who went abroad went abroad, those who went to Shanghai went to Shanghai, and those who had children gave birth, and a table of mahjong was not enough.She said, where there are so many demands, at least someone in Beijing will carry you home.She also said that she brought me new tea from Mingqian. This year, the rain is heavy and it is a small year. Let me drink it as soon as possible. If I dare to drink it first, I will be served by corruption. Before the age of twenty-seven, I had never been out of Beijing. The first time I took a plane, I flew to San Francisco.In the next four years, I flew with Air China and accumulated 350,000 kilometers of miles. I think I have left Beijing.But occasionally I encounter wind and sand in the south, feel the red mountain sapphire eagle tied to my waist, see a white-haired poet or receive a text message from my first love, and ask, how are you doing recently?The road downstairs turned into the East Third Ring Road in a trance, and a sandstorm loomed from the sky.I thought, I have nowhere to escape, just like Monkey King can't fly out of the fat palms of Tathagata.
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