Chapter 35 Tanzhe Temple Jietan Temple

Tanzhe Temple Jietan Temple I have known Tanzhe Temple and Jietan Temple for a long time.In the "Guide to Beiping" published by the Commercial Press, I saw a copper map of Tanzhe, a small piece, which was vague, and I didn't want to go there at all.Later, people kept talking about these two temples; sometimes they said that the road was not peaceful, and sometimes they said that the red leaves on the road were good.People who said that the red leaves are good persuaded me to go in autumn; but some people advised me to go in summer.Once when I rode a donkey to Badachu, the donkey driver asked me if I had visited Tanzhe, and I said no.He said that Tanzhe has beautiful scenery, and it is full of old ways. He has been there, and it is seventy or eighty miles away from Badachu, and it is possible to ride a sedan chair and ride a donkey.I don't like the old-fashioned attire, especially the long hair that is full of hair, which looks messy and dirty.I don't even want to ride a donkey for seventy or eighty miles, because I know neither the donkey nor I can bear it.What really moved me was the name "Tanzhe Temple".Don't understand?It's just that I don't understand it.People who are lazy pronounce it "Tanzhe Temple", which is even more inexplicable.This is probably a trick of Chinese grammar; if it is Europeanized, it is said to be "the temple of Tan and Zhe", then there is no need to chew or chant.Also, in a book of poems, I saw Qi Gu, who was chanting Jietai pine by my neighbors.so go.But in the spring before summer and autumn, and it is early spring; there are no flowers in early spring in Peiping.

Only then did I seriously inquire about the people who had been there.Some say it's better to live in Tanzhe, and some say it's better to live in the altar of precepts.Some people say that the road is too difficult to walk, and they are exhausted when they reach the end, and they no longer have the interest to play; some people say that walking is interesting.Another said that when they went there, they were sitting in a sedan chair. On the way, the two bearers quarreled and put down the sedan chair, saying that they would not carry it.So I decided secretly in my heart that I would not sit in a sedan chair or walk; I would take the middle road and ride a donkey.According to the common saying, Tanzhe Temple is always in front, and Jietan Temple is in the back, thinking that Jietan Temple must be far away; so I decided to live in Tanzhe, because I can’t come back for a day, I must live.When Mentougou got off the car, I was thinking that there would be too many people, and I was afraid that I would not be able to hire many donkeys, but that was not the case—when I hired donkeys, I realized that going to Jietan was half the price, that is to say, it was nearly half.At this time, I suddenly became capable and wanted to walk.let's go.

This section of the road is enough to see.It's like a river bed, where you can't find a place without stones, and there are always stumbling and stumbling under your feet, which is annoying.There were no trees, not even a blade of grass.This area used to be a coal kiln, and the carts pulling coal kept coming and going, the dust was saturated with coal dust, and turned into a dull dark gray, which made people feel suffocated.Walk for an hour.I felt that I couldn't do it anymore, and I was afraid that I would be exhausted if I didn't go there. Fortunately, a donkey came down from the mountain, and I hired it as if I had found a treasure, and rode on it.The east wind was particularly strong on this day.Usually riding a donkey is unstable, and a strong wind is a double whammy.There are roads on the mountain, which are very narrow, and the bottom is a slope. Originally walking from the west, the donkey driver saw that the wind was too strong, so he pulled the donkey onto the east road.Just like that, once the donkey was almost blown down by the wind; if we go to the west, maybe the donkey and I will return together.Recalling the pictures of riding a donkey in the wind and snow in the past, it is very elegant; probably it was not for going to Tanzhe Temple.As usual, there should be some poetry on the back of the donkey, but I have to take care of the donkey on the underside and the hat and glasses on the donkey;At that time, I really wish I could give birth to a third hand.

The mountain peaks in the east are gradually rising, and the wind can't pass; but the donkey can't be ridden, it is said that there are many Kaner.There are so many barriers.At this time, the spirit is better: the rugged road can be used to train the waist and feet, and you can see everything from your heart to your feet everywhere, unlike on flat ground.There are more people, and there is a bit of a competitive mentality. They always want to go to the front. Besides, although the mountain here is not dangerous, it is abrupt, ugly, and there are many sharp spots.We say that this is a bit of a mountain; it is really boring like Badachu.So I walked all the way to the back gate of Tanzhe Temple; the Kaner road was half longer than the one I walked in the wind, and the donkey was useless, so the donkey driver said, "Well, this is just to keep you company!"

I saw bamboo outside the wall first, and didn't want to go in.It is dense and thick, although it is not green enough.It is really not easy to look at bamboo in Peking.Thinking of the Eight Great Places again, the stretch in front of the Dabei Temple is pitifully thin and thin, compared to here, it really pales in comparison.After entering through a corner door, suddenly there are two poles of thick bamboo standing beside the door, closely touching the wall; to use the idiom of criticizing articles, these two poles of bamboo are enough to be called "a pen that flies from the sky".

The kisses of the two glazed tiles on the corner of the main hall are worth lingering when viewed from the bottom of the steps.Myths say that the hall is basically Qinglongtan, which was flattened by wind and rain overnight, and two kisses gushed out.It's a pity that the current two towers are too fresh, not commensurate with the hazy and mysterious realm of mythology.But it is still worth looking at, because it is so big, so bright yellow and shiny in the sun; the four brass chains on it also set off well.There are many halls in the temple, which are folded up layer by layer, and it is already extraordinary to walk. The size of each hall is different, and the statues are also arranged in their own way.After reading it, I still feel like it is endless.The Yanqing Pavilion under the main hall is a place to receive guests, and the mountains in the distance are like barriers.The structure of the house is very ingenious, and there are so many rooms, it looks like a big house.It's a pity that the dust is not swept away, and we can't live in it.Having said that, this kind of house was not intended to be crowded with so many of us.There is a deep ditch in front of the temple gate, with a stone bridge on it; there was no water at that time, if you go now, lean on the bridge and listen to the sound of the gurgling water, you can forget yourself and forget the world.There are four masson pine trees across the bridge, the branches are covered, and the leaves and leaves communicate with each other, forming another realm.There is an ancient Guanyin cave on the hill to the west.There is nothing to see in the cave, but when you go up, you can look at the side of Tanzhe from the hillside, just like Qiu Shizhou's "Pavilion on Fairy Mountains". .The temple is famous for its spring water, and there are stone troughs everywhere to divert water for a long time, but it is also lovely.It's just that the flowing cups are so elegant and vulgar, with earthworm-like grooves carved on the stone floor; I'm afraid only children are willing to do such flowing cups.Now Lanting's "Liu Shang Qu Shui" is also out of nostrils here, but on a larger scale.At night, because of the thin bedding I brought, I was so cold that my eyes were open, but I listened to the sound of the spring all night; I wanted not to freeze in my heart, the sound of the spring is so elegant!There is not a single old Taoist in the temple, but those few monks are full of copper stink and snobbish eyes. It is troublesome to teach people not to forget.

In the early morning of the next day, more than 20 people hired animals and went to the altar in a mighty manner.Mine is a mule, which is said to be much more stable.This is the first time, I am happy to ride on it.This road will turn over Luohou Ridge.It's just an earth mountain, but the road is narrow and winding. Although it is not high, it is always so convex and concave.There are many places where only one animal can pass.To be honest, it's a bit dangerous.Thinking of the use of soldiers in ancient times, attacking the enemy from the middle way, maybe this is the same situation.

The precept altar is on the middle of the mountain, and the mountain gate faces east.As soon as you enter, you feel flat and open; there is only a low-grade brick fence in the south, and there is a plain below, and the mountains are at the end of the plain, which is different from Tanzhe, which is shielded by mountains.Entering the second gate, I feel more spacious and open. Looking up at the platform in front of the main hall, it seems like a vast ocean.This platform is very long from east to west, and it is the most glorious place in the altar of precepts, with the widest vision. It reminds people of the poem "Zhenyi Qianrengang".All three famous pines are here. "Crouching dragon pine" and "holding tower pine" are both in the same posture, with a majestic body and blue scales, which means flying. "Jiulong Pine" old stalks, like teeth and claws.Under the moonlight, the dense pine shadows should be more attractive.This place is the best place to linger, not to take a quick look at it.Tanzhe wins with layers of folds, and Jietan wins with openness; but Tanzhe seems to be more secluded.The monks at the altar of precepts are full of spring breeze, but they are far better than those in Tanzhe; among us there are quite a few who regret that they should not be in Tanzhe.There is also a Guanyin cave on the mountain behind the altar.The cave was wide and deep, and everyone lit torches and went down noisily; the cave, which was half a mile away, was full of oily smoke and sound.There are stone tigers, stone turtles, ladders to the sky, sea eyes and so on in the cave, which are just to join in the fun of people.

Or ride a mule.When I returned to Changxindian, the two legs were almost not mine anymore. Made on August 3, 1934 (Originally published in "Tsinghua Summer Weekly", Volume 9, Nos. 3 and 4, August 6, 1934)